RE: Club Enya
The 60-4C unlike most of the other Enya 4-strokes run very well but need a [b]very[/b] rich idle mixture. Mine runs awesome on Fox idle bar plugs and Enya 3's. Mine came to me unrun but without a box, paperwork, or tools. It didn't however need a new ring or bearings. 12x6 or 13x6 is what I use on mine. Currently it's on a custom built flat bottom airboat.
Posted on: 5/18/2013 7:26 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515100

RE: Two Stroke Oils
You'd be the only one with a plane that smells like French fries...? I heard they used to use olive oil in a pinch to replace castor...
Posted on: 5/18/2013 1:29 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514957

RE: Cost of glow fuel
It's really easy if you only make/want one or two mixes. Break down the fuel into the three main components; oil, nitro, and methanol. We can use 20/20/60 for an example. 25.6/25.6/76.8 respectively. (In Fl. Oz, FYI) now if you want to run either all castor or all synthetic then this is easy. If you want to run a blend like 80/20 syn/cas, take the 25.6 oil number and split it. 20.48/5.12 in fl oz would be your oil amounts. I like to measure the methanol first, then oil, and nitro last. I use a graduated fuel bottle for RC cars to measure by volume. I have since started measuring by weight as its more accurate but to anyone else rather unnecessary. Mix the ingredients in a jug, shake, go fly. If you find your homebrew fuel is bubbly, ensure your fuel tank is perfectly isolated like you normally would. I try to not use any deforming additives but if I need any, I use ArmorAll Original. One drop to a quart is usually enough. It breaks down and falls out of solution overnight so use up what you treat with AA the same day if possible. Look at your various online consignment places like Amazon. Sooner or later you'll find Torco 100% pure Nitromethane. Through EBay, it was just free shipping off the bat. Amazon was my recent source and needed the Prime membership to get free shipping. Castor is $33/gal shipped, Klotz synthetic about $49/gal, nitro 55$/gal, and methanol around me is about $2.25/gal just for reference. Keep it clean!!!!! Dirty equipment and containers bode disaster.
Posted on: 5/18/2013 1:25 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514955

RE: Cost of glow fuel
I've seen a number of threads like this over the years. I'm a glow guy and probably always will be. I don't like gasoline engines because of the smell mainly, but the noise is annoying. A gas engine makes an airplane sound like a chainsaw. No thanks. For me, prices of $15-$20/gal glow fuel are a thing of the past. Because of hazmat shipping fees and taxes, airplane glow fuel is ~$28-$32/gal. Car fuel is ~$32-$39/gal. I burn 1-2 gallons of car fuel (20nitro 12 oil), and 2-3 gallons of airplane fuel. Now I have a Jett .35 that is capable of burning 7oz of 15% in 5 minutes or less. My wallet would never keep up with that engine or my ST S90. I now make my own fuel for between $6 and $14 per gallon. I use cheap oil, cheap methanol, and nitro I got with free shipping. I'm happy. Oh, and I too like a whiff of nitro in the morning... I also (gas guys - you're gonna think I'm nuts...) use only straight AA castor in my fuel mixes, no synthetic except for my car engines which get 12% oil at a 50/50 c/s blend. For aircraft engines, 20% castor is my norm, but my bushed and lapped engines get 25% castor. I am so cheap, I mix by weight too. 5% nitro is all I normally use except in the Jett. Sometimes the steep up-front costs scare folks away from making their own fuel, but in the long run its saved me $$hundreds$$ of dollars. Now, I'm not pushing my method onto anyone. Just sharing. I don't complain about the cost of glow fuel because its so cheap for me.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 8:50 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514862

RE: 3rd boat. flat deck 3-point hydro
Made a fuel tank change - had to go bubbleless. Small 6-7oz bladder inside an 8oz plastic bottle. Works flawlessly. [IMG]http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/1QwkRusty2pt5R/CE6CD0F6-FF82-4A1D-9B61-EFAF018A04E6-5710-000002EAE321DF82_zps4c345561.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/1QwkRusty2pt5R/036E871C-C3F5-41AE-BC3A-464C7511DF7B-5710-000002EAF58411D9_zps57fbdadb.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/1QwkRusty2pt5R/036E871C-C3F5-41AE-BC3A-464C7511DF7B-5710-000002EAF58411D9_zps57fbdadb.jpg[/IMG] Got a few runs on the Jett. Prop is an APC 8x6, 15% nitro, Enya 3 plug. http://youtu.be/pEvX06OEUaE More to come from the Ballistic Banshee...
Posted on: 5/17/2013 5:31 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "RC Airboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514705

RE: Rebuild a classic SuperTigre -need help
[quote]ORIGINAL: turbo.gst Consider making a mousse can muffler. You do have to buy a header, but it will be less than OEM and give a pretty good power boost over stock. [/quote] A header from Macs is right around $30 for these engines... Not really a big cost savings, and there's construction and curing time... I guess it depends on what the user really wants of needs.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 9:00 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513211

RE: Rebuild a classic SuperTigre -need help
I'd seen some various mufflers for sale in the RCU classifieds recently. There or the auction site would be where I start. Measure the bolt spacing. My S90 was 47mm, which I think is a common spacing. The S60, 75, and 90 all should have the same spacing IIRC. I source bearings from RC-Bearings.com, although Boca is a source too for twice or triple the cost of RC-Bearings. I'd run the engine before pulling it apart because sometimes oil varnish can make a bearing feel gritty. You can run the engines without a muffler, if you're daring... [:D]. I haven't dared run my S90 without a muffler yet.....
Posted on: 5/16/2013 7:06 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513091

RE: This is ridiculous...
Best advice I can give aside from having a hot enough iron is [b] use flux[/b]. I flux and tin every wire connection I make, and I have yet to have a solder joint fail. When the soldering is done, wipe off the excess flux, if any, before covering the joint with heat shrink tubing or whatever you choose to cover it with, if anything.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 6:51 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232931

RE: FP or LA
Personally, I wouldn't use either engine that was listed by the OP because I don't care for OS, so I too would recommend a Thunder Tiger for a budget engine. For a little more money, An Enya or Fox would be good candidates as they will run nearly forever with the proper treatment and parts are readily available for them. In regard to airbleed carbs, I think there is a distinct difference between a normal airbleed carb and a metered airbleed carb. I would prefer an Enya airbleed carb over any other airbleed carb on the market. My experience is limited, but in what experience I do have, I would pay more for an engine that will last longer and not have a liner peel than an engine that may need a liner replaced due to the plating flaking off. Fox has a trade-in program where a clunker engine of ANY make can be traded in for a Fox for half the retail price. I'd consider that a bargain. K&B Sportsters are good budget engines as well, and throttle well, but require a substantial break-in before they're flight-ready. Just my opinion, though.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 1:25 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232679

RE: Question for the Experts...
[quote]ORIGINAL: HPI_Savage_RC Very general numbers: Exhaust: 85-90° ATDC opening (170-180° duration) Transfer/Boost: 63-64° ATDC opening (126-128° duration) Crank Induction: 30-40° ABDC opening, 60-70° ATDC closing (200-220° duration) Actual values for specific engines will depend on the desired powerband, as well as the intended application (on-road vs off-road). [/quote] Thank you so very much for that information. I just hope you dont put any of the forum's engine modders out of business.. [;)][&:] LOL. I'm kidding. In reality its not a matter of national security that this sort of information not be shared. I find it rather lame that a question like mine is regarded similarly to asking an engine modder for his/her secrets. Sorry guys, its not rocket science. Now if I can get a full-wave drag pipe to fit one of my trucks. I didnt think they'd go that high with the exhaust timing, as thats full-wave pipe worthy.. These smaller 2-chamber pipes (helmholz resonators, basically) I suspect they are supposed to act like a full wave pipe, but I'm not so sure. I've never heard any of my engines "get on the pipe" per sé, so I wonder what it takes to get a car engine "on the pipe". With my Aero engines, you can tell an engine is getting on the pipe when the rpm jumps from 13,000 to 16,000 in the blink of an eye. The loads imposed hinder hearing it on a car engine, so perhaps my perception isn't quite right. Nonetheless, I have a better idea of where the timing should be, and then its a matter of finding a pipe that allows the engine to really get on the pipe and run out the way it should. I have a full-wave pipe I can experiment with, which should shed some light on what the tuned length really should be. I hate the fact that most car pipes are not tunable; ie: header length. This is where you can really cater to the specific engine and really get it to peak out.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 1:02 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232662

RE: Synthetic oils soluble in methanol besides klotz?
Synthetics are way too expensive compared to cheap old castor. I have 2qt of klotz that I'll use up and after that I'm gonna skip the synthetics. Just my opinion.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 4:03 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232100

RE: Saito 112 90 degree Vee Twin
[quote]ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150 I found the comment comparing that engine to a ''Harley'' being corrected amusing. ''build a mini harley W/that motor''''A harley has not the 90 degree angel bud only 60 dergee. So that's not good''. Wouldn't a version using 180 or 220 pots be awesome? [/quote] It also sounds like the cylinders fire opposite, unlike a harley engine that fires both cylinders together... It looks and sounds very smooth. Is there any other information about the engine around, w8ye?
Posted on: 9/16/2012 9:39 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230026

RE: 3rd boat. flat deck 3-point hydro
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mikeup Congrats on your success with the new 3 - pointer.   BTW- They took my feeding tube out Wed., and family doc gave me an ok to start doing more. Good week. BTW- I got a OM- 29'' boat and finishing building a water pickup for the motor coolers and put more caps on the t-120 esc to take the heat which is already water cooled ( esc ). [/quote] Good to hear from you Dennis! I was going to email you to see how you were doing. I'm very glad you're recovering well. This little 3-pointer is just awesome. Well worth the time to do a re-rebuild of the hull. This new hull is far and away 150% better than the original one I built. I need a bigger pond! I dont think I've even gotten it up to top speed yet because I run out of pond in a very short time. Crazy.. The wife went to the drive-in movie theater with some friends, so I sat around the house screwing off. I decided to yank my vibration-happy .90 2-stroke off the big flat bottom boat and stick my Enya 60 4-stroke on my big flat bottom boat. I might go romp it a little tomorrow if I have time. I probably wont, as there is a ton of work to be done around the house. I'll just have to see. Hopefully I can round up a cameraman to make some vids for me. Its just too hard to try to zoom in on the boat cruising around the pond and paying attention to where I'm driving at the same time.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 9:43 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "RC Airboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229715

RE: Saito 112 90 degree Vee Twin
Now that is cool. Looks like someone wanted a Saito version of the Enya VT-240, except the 240 is twice as big. Very cool that the crankshaft, rods, and crankcase are homemade. I'm drooling.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 6:37 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229648

RE: 3rd boat. flat deck 3-point hydro
Went to the pond today for more testing (and grinning). Superb performance. Speeds of 35mph+. I was running a 9x6 APC prop on the Enya, which seems to be a good prop for the boat. I get 15k running rpm on this prop, about 13k on a 9x7 APC. I am going to do some window shopping tomorrow for a small gps that's lighter in weight. Any more than 3-4oz and I lose 3-5mph speed if not more. Unfortunately I can never find a cameraman to take vids for me. This thing is fast! Still smiling and very happy with it.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 1:31 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "RC Airboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229481

RE: Valve overlap on 4 strokes
[quote]ORIGINAL: earlwb Yeah it is one of those famous debatable quandaries we see from time to time. I think it works better in the car or trucks than in an airplane. The people who have reported using them, state that it helps improve the power or torque at the lower end of the RPMs.But not any performance boost at WOT.  Thus they get a little better acceleration coming out of a turn at low speed. Truck guys like it for that same reason more power at the bottom end of the RPM range.  Some guys reported it was easier to tune or adjust the engine with one on too. I suspect the o-ring belt drive slips too much at WOT so it loses efficiency at higher RPMs. Anyway if someone is winning at the track using one of the superchargers, then everyone else will get one too. It doesn't matter if the winner is a really good driver or not. :D It always reminded me of the guys who hooked up leaf blowers to their engines to get a poor man's supercharger. Then there were the scooter guys hooking up 12v blower fans also. Turbo chargers do have a big scale effect problem. The smallest turbo charger I know of was the one that Puegeot sold on some of their high end 125cc scooters in Europe. Even then it didn't give as much of a boost as people might have hoped for. I think that 250cc was the smallest anyone could go with a turbo charger and get it to work reasonably well. So I think the supercharger has the same problem with model glow engines, in that the scale effect causes them to lose a lot of efficiency. Making the performance increase questionable. [/quote] The main issue I see with a supercharger actually working (provided the unit itself actually works, which I doubt it does) is the parasitic losses may negate the positive effects, as well as both intake and exhaust ports being open at the same time. In this instance, under boost, some of the fuel mixture would blow out the exhaust. Without a tuned exhaust to cram it back into the combustion chamber, I think you would lose efficiency that way (as well as a leaner fuel mixture in the chamber).... There was recently a discussion in the car forums about a turbocharger working on a 2-stroke model engine, namely a car engine. There are a lot of guys that feel the same way towards turbos as they do superchargers but turbochargers have been used on snowmobiles for many many years. The theory goes that the backpressure the turbine creates on the exhaust is enough of a restriction to keep the air/fuel mix from blowing out the exhaust port. Now whether or not it would work with an engine as small as .15ci or .20ci is another story. I had seen a picture online somewhere of a very small turbocharger mounted to a 2.5cc rc car engine but no video of it operating. I'll see if I can find that picture again, it was quite.... "cute". edit: It appears to work... The guy's tuning is pretty cruddy so the engine quits a few times.. Maybe it works? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgBuIodqOWk&feature=related Another one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuJ703Kb-RA Engine not running though.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 11:51 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229421

RE: Pressure loss problem, open to suggestions
Exhaust pressure is only going to push fuel at higher RPM. At idle, there is very little, if any, muffler pressure forcing fuel into the carb. If you're having a hard time getting fuel to the carb while trying to start the engine, Either the carb is plugged with something (fuel filter installed? dirty?), the idle gap is too small and/or the idle mixture needle is too lean. I suggest first opening the idle mixture needle some and see if the problem goes away. Too narrow of an idle gap will cause the idle mixture to be lean. Opening the idle needle OR opening the idle gap will richen the mixture and allow fuel to come through. If you can get fuel to the carb and get it started okay, and later on it just dies with no fuel in the feed line to the carburetor, perhaps the tank is cracked or the lid isnt sealing properly. Most often, unless the leak is severe, any leaks in the exhaust system will not effect the pressure to the tank that much. Ask the airplane guys that have aluminum mufflers that bolt on to the engine metal to metal with no gasket! They all weep a little oil while running, with no ill effects on engine operation.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 8:26 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229256

RE: How many gallons of nitro do you burn in a season ?
I burn 4-6 gallons a year on average, more if I run my .90 aero engine on a regular basis. I quit buying premix at $36 a gallon and mix my own for less than $15 a gallon. The smell of pure nitro reminds me of something else I find much enjoyment in....
Posted on: 9/15/2012 7:39 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229224

RE: enya 40 4 strk
[quote]ORIGINAL: AMB OK all just going thru my engine shelf uncovered a new Enya 4 strk open rocker , I test ran it only, being a diesel maniac I will never use it If anyone interested PM me I am not into the flea bay thing martin [/quote] Its too bad my engine budget is on hiatus... I'd snatch it up in a heartbeat. I hope it goes to a loving home.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 7:30 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229218

RE: Valve overlap on 4 strokes
[quote]ORIGINAL: earlwb [quote]ORIGINAL: Old Fart Hey earl that looks interesting and do you fly it??? i'm over bent eights and horsepower tricky things to do with that,does the engine sound different and how does it throttle up?would like to hear it if you post a vid somewhere for us. [/quote] I wish. The miniature roots blower was made by a machining firm in California (if I remember right), to promote their business. They didn't make any more, other than a few for their own purposes. No one outside of OS with their 1.20 supercharged roots blower pattern engine has made any that I know of. I think there were some videos made, I will post them if I find them. There is a small company that makes superchargers for RC cars, but I honestly don't know how well they work. I have thought about getting one to see how it performs, but I haven't yet. That same business also offers various nitrous oxide injection systems for RC cars too. http://www.rbinnovations.com/default.asp Here is the original thread about it here : http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1580599/anchors_1580599/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm Their problem is that the 4 stroke engine needs to be modified for the supercharger, plus the supercharger has to be made for a specific engine displacement too. Glow engines tend to be more finicky in this way. So they never went into production with it. [/quote] The RB Innovations supercharger is a hoax. I got one in a box of spare parts from a friend for free. I'm trying to get a picture of the insides uploaded to Photobucket, but having issues with photobucket. Its not a sealed unit, uses rubber bands to drive the pulleys, and just looks cheap. I dont believe it has ball bearings in it either. I doubt it will work at all, though I have entertained the idea of experiementing with it some....
Posted on: 9/15/2012 7:27 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229215

RE: APC Prop Constants...
[quote]ORIGINAL: pe reivers No, I did not, but two universities did that in wind tunnels. My calculator proved up to 2% pessimistic in it's predictions, which is well within technical accuracy. [/quote] Thus my reasoning for using your prop power calculator spreadsheet versus any other application. Its been well documented in its popularity, so it must be good.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 4:19 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225478

RE: APC Prop Constants...
[quote]ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150 You can find APC & APCW constants on this [link=http://personal.osi.hu/fuzesisz/strc_eng/index.htm]STATIC THRUST CALCULATOR[/link] Click on the propeller type tab & a drop down menu will appear. [/quote] Thank you. I'll check that out when I get off work.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 4:36 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224781

RE: APC Prop Constants...
[quote]ORIGINAL: airraptor Ok here is the first result of my search on the net. http://www.ae.illinois.edu/m-selig/props/propDB.html http://soar.wichita.edu/dspace/bitstream/handle/10057/773/t05031.pdf http://dc.library.okstate.edu/cdm/singleitem/collection/theses/id/2757/rec/14 https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/kotwani2/www/kkotwani_webpage_files/papers/FMFP.pdf http://etd.auburn.edu/etd/bitstream/handle/10415/210/Burger_Christoph_57.pdf?sequence=1 this should be enough reading for you for now. It will explain how the constants were derived. Use this data to set up the calc with different props. then use a known prop in the calc on a engine that will run that prop at that rpm. then base other props on the same engine to get a general idea what the contant should be for that prop. this will work on any prop close to the same rpm as the ''known'' prop. [/quote] I came across most of those pages last night. I understand how the data is collected. Now to find the right data (prop constant) that works in Pé's spreadsheet. Thanks for your time.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 3:34 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224740

RE: TT .39 heli engine ruens glow plugs
[quote]ORIGINAL: Basil Yousif The way I apply the RTV is I put a thin layer on the muffler and let it dry. After it forms a solid gasket I install the muffer. I noticed in the past when I just put the RTV on the muffler and attatched it all of it just squirts out the side and your left with metal on metal. [/quote] I assemble my mufflers with the rtv wet and snug the screws tight. The rtv fills the low spots if any and seals it up. Never a leak. Just gotta get the surfaces clean.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 3:20 AM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224741

RE: APC Prop Constants...
[quote]ORIGINAL: airraptor Look up NASA dryden (sp) research. there was a guy in here that tested many props and posted the results. The prop calcs dont do much except for playing around with numbers on the computer. lol i have found better use of time trying props in the air. plus you get some time in. [:D] [/quote] I'm going to start calling you Professor from now on. You always seem to know better. The whole point of this is to be able to compare a couple of my engines to determine where they make the best power. Two engines can turn a given prop at the same RPM, but one could be making half the power it should be and needs to be run on a different prop. It may not be accurate to .00000001%, but I dont need it to be. Just a ball park is fine. The Dryden Research site doesnt have much pertinent information that relates to the topic of this thread.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 6:50 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224435

RE: Question for the Experts...
[quote]ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet So basically your running LRP 28's Upon further research on the HT pipe it shows thats its very similar to an 053 mid range pipe. Why dont you try the OFNA 086 pipe which is a Upper power band pipe? Like I said earlier, the ERCM pipe, be it that it costs more, makes power thru out the entire power band. Why would you want anything different. are you trying to focus on one area of the power band? You know that ERCM makes SB and BB pipes? [/quote] I have several engines, both small blocks and big blocks. When these wear out, they will be replaced with better engines. Picco comes to mind. I'm fully aware of ERCM's offerings, I've seen their website. For what they're asking, you'd think they were made by OS.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 4:42 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224268

RE: Question for the Experts...
[quote]ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet If you havent tired any of the popular pipes, then which pipes have you tried? Also what is your goal for this motor you speak of, and what brand, as many onroad motors have different timing in stock trim? [/quote] Well, one example involves two engines, each running the same exact pipe. Mach 427 and an SH .28 p6. I haven't degreed either engine yet, but the Mach 427 is kind of a slouch on the HT pipe, whereas the SH .28 just screams. I can tell the pipe runs out of steam at the very top of the .28's rpm, it acts like its got a governor holding it back.. The HT runs fine in the low end but doesnt let the engine really open up on top (either engine in question). I have several other engines that I need to calculate the compression ratios of, and after I have that data, I'll have a better idea of what rpm they should run at and pipe them accordingly. These generic RTR type pipes work "OK" but there is much room for improvement. I just dont have the cash to buy 20 pipes to experiment with like some people do.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 3:18 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224181

RE: 93.1 mph jato part 2
[quote]ORIGINAL: roadrunner ss the gearing on my jato is going to be a 30cb and a 34 spur gear with a modded 28 engine [/quote] Are you going to actually let the transmission shift or are you going to just lock it in 2nd gear? I've entertained the idea of putting a stout .21 big block in my Jato, but not for any record attempts.. Just for the heck of it mostly. A .28 would be nuts...
Posted on: 9/10/2012 3:04 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224171

RE: APC Prop Constants...
[quote]ORIGINAL: pe reivers If I had that list, I would have converted it. Take what you can get, and search for what you need. [/quote] Thats what I've been doing. Pardon my ignorance, but how exactly does one determine the prop constant, anyway?
Posted on: 9/10/2012 3:02 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224168

RE: APC Prop Constants...
[quote]ORIGINAL: pe reivers Some electric sites list the 1000 rpm watt value. Whilst APC are very constant in their production techniques, their prop power demand across sizes tends to vary considerably. [/quote] I've noticed that some props have a prop constant of .90 and others as high as 1.4 depending on what site you're on. Do you have any idea if a more complete list is available for the fuel powered props?
Posted on: 9/10/2012 1:05 PM by Author "1QwkSport2.5r" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224023