RE: Henschel 129 80
Has anyone ever built this from these plans? I almost pulled the trigger on the Don Smith 129 when I came across this. The ease of build makes this one appealing, however at a glance it is far less scale, but I'm not a scale fanatic. The biggest problem I see with this size twin is the fuel tanks. I would be inclined to run dle 20's on it, just curious if this airframe would take it Any opinions? BTW the OP had a typo in the title, it is actually 86 inch.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 12:12 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232007

RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?
For anyone interested Frank Bowman is now making rings for the pte 36, I just fitted mine. mailto:ringmaster46@msn.com ringmaster46@msn.com
Posted on: 9/17/2012 11:33 PM by Author "3136" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231984

RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build
I was really happy with the strength of my pull pull setup, so I went ahead and did the covering. I'm getting very close now, can't wait to get her airborne.
Posted on: 9/12/2012 4:29 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225907

RE: Clunk line for Gas engine
Have a read through this, it's been covered extensively. There are links to USA suppliers. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11168422/anchors_11170457/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#11170457
Posted on: 9/11/2012 2:22 PM by Author "3136" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225367

RE: Ignition Module failure
If you want to test an ignition, this info is in post 24 of the gas engine sticky Below is a cut and paste of Jedijodi's instructions It was requested that I post this troubleshooting guide for Rcexl and many C&H ignitions here in this thread. If you have no spark or think you are having an ignition problem, carefully following this guide will test the ignition module, hall sensor, and spark plug cap components. This guide can be used for single or twin cylinder ignitions, it does not test the manual or any optical ignition switches that may be in the system. You will need a good fully charged 4 cell Nicad or Nimh battery, an old servo extension, and your trusty volt meter. So,...... Take an old expendable servo extension and cut off the male plug end, separate the wires, strip a bit of insulation from each of the 3 leads and plug the other end into the sensor lead on the ignition module. Put a good spark plug in the cap, doesn't need to be all the way seated but far enough for the hex of the plug to make good contact with the metal shell of the plug cap, plug a fully charged 4 cell battery directly into the ignition. Test for battery voltage at the red and black wires of the test extension you made and plugged into the sensor lead of the module, if there is no voltage replace the module, if there is battery voltage-> Short the white and black wires together, every time you break this connection there should be a spark, no or intermittent spark=bad module, has good spark-> Remove the test lead and plug the sensor on the engine into the module and turn the engine over, no spark, replace the sensor, good spark-> Remove the spark plug, look down into the plug cap and turn the engine over, if you see spark arcing through the silicone boot to the metal shell, replace the spark plug cap, no visible spark but you hear a snap-> Put a small Home page of the leading discount RC screw distributor for model builders. screw driver into the bottom of the cap, turn the engine over and you should observe spark jumping from the screw driver to the plug cap shell outside of the silicone boot, an arc of about 1/4"-3/8", if it does this there is nothing wrong with the ignition, if you hear an arc but it's not in the cap with the screw driver, it could be a problem with the Large selection of resistors - in stock - buy now! West Florida Components resistor in the cap or the high tension lead where it goes into the cap, replace the plug cap. All of this can be done on a bench, the plug does not need to be grounded to the engine. Good luck!
Posted on: 9/9/2012 3:48 PM by Author "3136" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223057

RE: DLE 30 Breaking Up-Help
[quote]ORIGINAL: ahicks [quote]ORIGINAL: av8tor1977 But running them rich does do a very nice job of carboning them up. Glow engines don't carbon up much due to the type of fuel and the combustion temps. They sometimes get varnished up, but that's a different issue usually caused by castor oil. Gas engines burn much hotter, and [b]a rich mixture will carbon one up fairly quickly. [/b] AV8TOR [/quote] On the bold, I'm sorry, that's a stretch for me. Not if you're running a quality oil. That may be true on a lawn mower or a leaf blower running garbage oil, but an engine running on the rich side that's making enough power to fly, carboning up to the point even sport flying performance is affected by it? That would be something I'd have to see to believe. [/quote] well easy done, open your needles up run for a few hours, then look inside the head. No better test than one done by yourself, let us know how you go.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 3:25 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220456

RE: Who else has failed on their first build?
70x7 it will take all of 20 seconds to stick some blue tack to the front, give that a try.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 12:10 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220396

RE: Don Smith HENSCHEL 129B
Thanks.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 2:39 PM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218635

RE: Don Smith HENSCHEL 129B
That's very kind of you OldSkaleGuy, if it is not too much trouble, I would love to know as much as I can before investing large amounts into a bird like this. This plane does have a special appeal, I'm not sure what it is, but I like it.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 4:53 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218066

RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build
BTW Chevelle nice flight, I'm looking forward to mine being airborne.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 4:27 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218058

RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build
Thanks guys, I went with a pull pull system, I'm glad I did that as it looks bloody good! I had to put the servos behind the cockpit though, as I have a full length pilot, so it will need more nose weight now... poo! I'll upload some pics before I cover it in case you have a wiser idea on my setup.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 4:19 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218054

RE: Don Smith HENSCHEL 129B
Thanks Ram-Bro, I read all 54 pages with keen interest only to find neither of the 2 builders actually finished and maidened them. Lawndart finished his and it looked fantastic but never flew it. So everyone, I would love to build this odd plane but a little gun shy if there is no positive feedback. I was leaning toward the 111inch as I would assume the wing loading would be lower.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 4:10 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218050

Don Smith HENSCHEL 129B
Hello all, has anyone built the Don Smith HENSCHEL 129B ? Precision cut kits make two sizes, 93in and 111in. I like unusual designs and I have never seen one of these around, I would love to build one, but would like to know of any feedback from someone who has built one.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 3:51 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216670

RE: Servos
[quote]ORIGINAL: Sidekick Hi Guys, I was considering using Standard servos and 4/40 rods for my 1/4 scale Sig cub. Can you modellers go with that, or what would you suggest? Many thanks, Sidekick. [/quote] Which servo exactly do you propose to use? I personally use nothing lower than 645mg or lately (past 2 years) i've been buying the digital 5645mg. These servos are not expensive, however going too cheap can be expensive when you have a failure.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 3:43 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216664

RE: Why is it recommended to use a Ball Link on a Gas Engine (RCG15) throttle arm?
[quote]ORIGINAL: DL8698 [quote]ORIGINAL: w8ye They are not talking about the "snap-on" ball link but the bigger heay duty one http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD912&P=ML [/quote] I was about to order the type with the ball and cup shaped socket. Is that what you mean by "snap on" type? The link you gave seems to be similar to these www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp [/quote] I would use the dubro links as they are dependable, hobbyking stuff can be of dubious quality. You wont save much so stick with dubro. I also like to put a washer between the bolt and ball link, just for added insurance. If well supported 2/56 rod is fine.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 4:27 PM by Author "3136" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212005

RE: Virus warning
[quote]ORIGINAL: D-Wayne This site is infested. I tried to make a puchase but just too many dangers on this site. [/quote] yeah right, 1 friggin post... you have a hell of a lot of credibility don't you.
Posted on: 8/28/2012 5:57 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208828

RE: Virus warning
Hey kap, can you explain to me why it is only avg that is causing these problems? maybe you are the stupid one? [quote]ORIGINAL: KaP2011 [quote]ORIGINAL: 3136 I just went through every tab I could find and no problem at all. I'm using norton 360, YES YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. All the cheapies are having a problem, well, surprise surprise gomer pile. [/quote] Then why is it ONLY RCU
Posted on: 8/28/2012 5:51 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208815

RE: Virus warning
Oh for Christ's sakes just pay for a decent antivirus software and you wont have any more problems. Why is it that eveyone who is using AVG is having problems? It's because it's crap!!! End of story cheapies! I don't understand being accused of being stupid, because I use software that works, and filters my computer from crap, that free software does not. How is that being stupid? My pc is working fine, yours isn't , who is the stupid one?
Posted on: 8/28/2012 5:40 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208805

RE: Virus warning
I just went through every tab I could find and no problem at all. I'm using norton 360, YES YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. All the cheapies are having a problem, well, surprise surprise gomer pile.
Posted on: 8/28/2012 4:41 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208749

RE: good 30cc engines???
I'm amazed no one has said the OS GT33 http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg1533.html They have a nice sound to them as well, the supplied muffler actually works, something to consider as most engines in this class only come with an exhaust diverter, not a muffler that actually makes it quieter.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 6:09 PM by Author "3136" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208342

RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build
Hey guys I set my elevator and rudder up with 2/56 sullivan nylon rods, I'm not sure if they are sturdy enough for a plane this size. It's a fairly slow plane though, I certainly wouldn't use them on an extra or mustang this size. I can't get any bigger rods locally so it will have to get a pull pull set up if the 2/56 is no good. The covering hasn't gone on yet so I can still do a pull pull system.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 5:54 PM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208312

RE: Balsa USA Phaeton II Need Help
Hi there Honker, I'm not sure what is envolved with that kit, but when I did my busa sopwith pup rigging, it called for some joints to be wrapped with wire. Basically wind heavy hard drawn wire around the joint. I always use surgical gloves when soldering, you need to keep every part free of any contamination whatsoever. Use some very fine sandpaper clean all surfaces, use flux paste and solder together. Heat the part and apply the solder to the part, not the iron, the solder will flow to where ever the flux is applied. The interplane n struts on the pup didn't need to be wrapped but you could crimp the parts to the wire so they stayed in place while you are working on them. You will need a 100 watt iron or larger.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 10:49 PM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204164

dle 55 electric starter
I came across this today http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJI8LeGmG0A Has anyone tried this?
Posted on: 8/21/2012 1:19 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200564

RE: lost my horizontal stab
I would have thought you would hear it if flutter caused it. Also flutter normally rips the control surface out. You may have cracked it in transport or a previous hard landing.
Posted on: 8/18/2012 3:32 PM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198095

RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build
Well, mine isn't finished yet, but is projected to be around 7.2 to 7.5 kg. I put a bit of basswood in the tail and added a bit more strength to other areas. I added more ply around the wing fixing points and glassed around them as well. I also used 2 part epoxy for most of the glueing, which added a bit too much weight. I'm very happy with the strength of it though, and I'm sure with all that wing it will fly fine. I have a scratch Se5a which is only a bit bigger, and that is 12kg and flies fine, it lands at walking pace. The wings are scale on that one, they are very thin and undercambered, overall just a little more wing area. I think this will be easy to fly.
Posted on: 8/18/2012 1:23 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11197561

RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build
Thanks guys, I just finished the motor install. She'll be ready to fly in a week or two. ALO111, make sure you video the maiden, good luck!
Posted on: 8/16/2012 10:23 PM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196489

RE: Grammar
Sometimes spelling is quite important. You might leave someone a note and write "I'm going to kick your ....." Or if you miss-spelled it, then it may read "I'm going to lick your ....."
Posted on: 8/16/2012 10:14 PM by Author "3136" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196487

RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build
Hooray!! I finally got time to do some building. The soldering really worried me, but I used surgical gloves so no hand oil got on the parts, sanded everything and kept it clean. Plenty of flux and it's solid a a rock, I'm very happy at this point, it looks like I'm on the home strait. I extended the front a little to allow for a 160mm engine. I burnished the al with sandpaper on my thumb, which turned out pretty good.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 4:30 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185281

RE: Experienced with the TWM P-51 GS?
Thanks for the tip about the heat gun Don. I have a dle 30 in mine, I think the os 33 would be a better choice. From what I have seen at the field they have a lot more grunt. The muffler supplied is also much more effective than the dle 30. I'll be interested to see your results.
Posted on: 8/6/2012 5:53 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Scale Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11182661

RE: DLE vs 3W,DA,Zenoah even OS
If you were asking about a extra, I would say DA. However a large warbird I would say Zenoah, without any shadow of a doubt. End of story.
Posted on: 8/3/2012 2:15 AM by Author "3136" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179353