RE: KMP/eBay YAK-54 Build and Fly
I still have one that I got from a friend who bought it off of eBay many years ago. After receiving it in the mail he stripped the covering off of it to inspect the airframe (as many people were finding problems with the construction in their Yaks), and he found many areas that needed to be repaired. He didn't want to deal with it. So I picked it up from him pretty cheap. I fixed many of the areas since then, but still haven't finished it yet. I'm really looking forward to completing it though. As I've only heard good things about how they fly! Mark
Posted on: 8/10/2012 7:40 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11188876

HELP...I need some information on the original all-wood 47
Hello, I have a couple questions concerning the CG, and construction, of the original all-wood OMP 47" Edge... I just converted one of these original all-wood 47" Edges to electric power, and balanced it at 4-1/2" back from the leading edge of the wing (like I use to fly it with a glow engine for over a decade). I'm guessing it's because I no longer have an additional 8-10 ounces of fuel up front anymore, but the resulting test flight with this CG was VERY tail heavy (when rolled upside down the plane would immediately pitch straight upward). - Does anyone have any recommendation on where the CG should be on one of these old Edges, when converted to electric? I can move the battery forward a little bit, but even moving it all the way forward the airplane is still too tail heavy. So now I'm thinking of moving the elevator and rudder servos forward to help move the CG forward. The only problem doing this is that I'm not the original builder of this model, and don't know what kind of construction is in front of the tail servos in the fuselage. Which brings me to my second question... - I was wondering if anyone has any small drawings, or photos, of what the fuselage construction is like on these original all-wood Edges, and if so, could you please email me any information you are willing to share? I don't want to risk weakening the structure by just cutting a hole into the fuselage without knowing how it is built first. I could probably glean all the information I'd need from the original assembly manual. But I've been looking for one of those for years, and nobody seems to have any of the original all-wood manuals anymore. I don't think my power system can handle additional weight up front, and still give me the performance I want. So this is why I'm looking into other ways of shifting my CG forward. I hope somebody can please help me out here? Thank you, Mark
Posted on: 4/30/2012 1:38 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11062911

RE: KMP/eBay YAK-54 Build and Fly
Richie, I'm familiar with Lusterkote. They seem to use very little pigment in their paints. Usually requiring a lot of coats to get it to match anywhere close. Your's does look good in the photos though. Did you strip the original paint off first? If so, how did you do that? I read earlier in this thread where somebody recommended using "NAPA Decal & Paint Stripper". I guess it works on the paint used on the older KMP cowls, but not the newer versions. The one I got is the older one. So I should be good. Mark
Posted on: 2/24/2012 9:50 AM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10973907

RE: KMP/eBay YAK-54 Build and Fly
Hey Richie...You did a nice job matching your cowl to the covering. Care to share how you did it? Mark
Posted on: 2/23/2012 7:13 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10973147

RE: KMP/eBay YAK-54 Build and Fly
OK...Here is what I did to move my firewall back 1", and make it a lot stronger than the stock firewall (which was just end glued to the outside of the engine box, with some triangle stock on the inside). The numbering below roughly corresponds to which photo it's describing. 1) First you have to determine where you need to cut off the front of your engine box. I knew I wanted my firewall back 1" from the stock position, and I knew I wanted to add 3/8" triangle stock in FRONT of the firewall. So this meant that my engine box needed to be cut off 5/8" back from the stock firewall (1"-3/8"=5/8"). So I drew lines 5/8" back from the firewall on all four sides of the box, parallel to the firewall (to keep all the thrust angles the same as the stock firewall). Next I cut on these lines with a X-Acto fine bladed saw, and cleaned up the front once it came free. After this, I measured in 3/8" from this newly cut edge, and drew a line parallel to it. This is where the front of the new firewall will be. I knew my firewall was going to be 5/16" thick. So I measured back 5/16" from this line for the back of my firewall. Extreme Flight uses two tabs per side on the firewalls of their new Yaks, but I just made one central tab on each side. I cut out me tab slots by drilling a hole at each end of the slot, and then cutting between these holes with an X-Acto fine bladed saw. After cutting out the slots I cleaned them up using a 1-1/2" wide Perma-Grit sanding strip. You'll also need to chisel away all remnants of the old triangle stock going back to this line (the back of your new firewall). 2) Next I laminated two pieces of aircraft ply together to make my firewall (one 1/4" piece and one 1/16" piece). Measure the distance between the engine box sides to determine the size of your firewall, and don't forget to leave some extra material for the tabs on all four sides! Make your two side tabs only HALF of the thickness of the sides of your engine box, and even so you still may have to chamfer the bottom of the tab a bit to get it to fit into the engine box. Ideally it would nice if these tabs could be the same thickness as the sides of your engine box. But since the sides of the engine box are already glued to the bottom of the box, you'll have difficulty installing the new firewall if you make the tabs any bigger. Even with the shorter tabs you'll still need to apply a little pressure to get it to go into place, and when it does it'll snap into place pretty firmly! 3) Dry fit everything together to make sure everything fits together correctly. 4) You'll need to cut a slot in the top cover to fit the top tab on the new firewall. 5) Epoxy your new firewall in place, and once dry epoxy all your triangle stock in place. I used 3/8" spruce triangle stock in front and behind the firewall, and 1/2" balsa triangle stock for the top sides of the engine box (where the top of the box gets glued on...but don't glue it on at this point). After drilling the holes to mount your engine, and the clearance hole behind your engine, seal off all the exposed wood with some thinned down epoxy (both inside, and out). Make sure not to get epoxy on the top surfaces where your top cover will be glued on later. 6) Test fit your top cover again to make sure that everything still fits correctly, and make adjustments as needed. I chose to strengthen my cowl attachment points at this time by adding some triangle stock behind each tab, and then adding a small plate that fits around the whole tab assembly to tie it all together with the bulkhead. 7) Determine where your throttle servo needs to be mounted, and cut a hole in the bottom of your engine box to mount it through. I added little block of wood at both ends to give the servo screws more wood to bite into. If you're using a pipe, or canister, you may need to block it up a little bit more to clear the header. The round hole to the side of the servo cutout is for the servo wire. There is no clearance holes in the engine box of the KMP Yak. So you'll need some way to get the wire back into the airplane. At this time, I also added some triangle stock to the front and back of the fuel tank mounting tray to stiffen it up a bit. Mine had a lot of flex to it. 8) This photo was actually taken before I fuel proofed everything with a coat of thinned down epoxy. But it shows the new firewall completed, and the engine, and servo mounted. The only thing left to do is glue the top of the engine box on. But make sure that everything is exactly the way you want it before doing so. Because access to the inside of your engine box will be a a lot more difficult once it is attached! I know, a little more information that what was really needed for such an easy task. But I figured it may be of some use to others wanting to know how to do it. Mark
Posted on: 2/21/2012 2:11 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10969578

RE: KMP/eBay YAK-54 Build and Fly
...Just so you know, that photo I posted is with the DLE-55 mounted to the new firewall (1" shorter than the stock engine box). So when viewing the photo, please keep in mind that the original firewall would be 1" further out than what is shown. I'll post my firewall mod, along with the photos, later today...If I get a chance. Mark
Posted on: 2/21/2012 11:14 AM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10969280

RE: KMP/eBay YAK-54 Build and Fly
I had to move the firewall back 1" to position my DLE-55 correctly...But I still have the original firewall that I cut off of the engine box. So I just placed the original firewall back where it was cut off (with the razor saw I used to cut it off with sandwiched between the two parts), and measured each corner of the engine box. I'm guessing that each airframes dimensions may very slightly because of inconsistencies in the wood, and build quality. But these are the dims my firewall originally came with. Viewed from the pilots position (looking forward) the top left corner of the firewall is 6-29/32" from the bulkhead at the base of the engine box. The top right corner of the firewall is 6-3/4" from the bulkhead. The lower left corner of the firewall is 6-7/8" from the bulkhead, and the lower right corner is 6-11/16" from the bulkhead. If these dims are a little confusing let me know, and I'll draw up a sketch to better describe it. I took several photos of each step of my complete rework of the new firewall, and can post them if you are interested? Since you are planning on using the same engine as I did it may be of some use to you. I designed my new firewall based on the way the firewall is attached on the new Extreme Flight Yaks (you can see it in the back ground in the photo). So it's very strong, and a much better design than the stock KMP Yak firewall. I hope this helps? If not, let me know if there is anything else I can help you with? Mark
Posted on: 2/20/2012 9:27 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10968590

RE: KMP/eBay YAK-54 Build and Fly
Hey Bill...It's good to hear from you again! I was wondering if you ever had enough time to properly evaluate those X-Power S9350 servos, that you got from eBay, before getting sidetracked with the karts? I still have a set of them that I got back when everyone was talking about them. But haven't used them in anything yet. I never heard what the final verdict on them was? Mark
Posted on: 2/14/2012 10:22 AM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10958644

RE: KMP/eBay YAK-54 Build and Fly
I still have one...But mine hasn't been flown yet. A friend of mine bought it back when they were still popular, stripped the covering off of it to inspect the airframe (after hearing stories about the build quality of some of these 'rejects'), and started repairing areas that where damaged, or just not built correctly. He couldn't take it with him when he moved. So he sold it to me. I got it just about ready to cover now. But other projects keep pushing it back. I plan on using a DLE-55 in mine. I've heard nothing but good things about the flight qualities of this Yak. So hopefully this will be the year I finally finish mine. Mark
Posted on: 2/14/2012 10:14 AM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10958631

RE: Custom Piston Rings
Thanks for the reply AV8TOR. I was kind of hoping that was the case. I just wanted to make sure before making a decision. Mark
Posted on: 1/7/2012 10:03 AM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10896375

RE: Custom Piston Rings
When I got my first DLE-30 engine (side carb) I was told that replacing the stock ring with a Bowman ring would help quicken the break-in period, as well as improve the compression, ease of starting, and engine running temperature. After reading through allot of threads on the side carb version I figured it would be a good idea to replace the stock ring with a Bowman ring. I don't know how the engine would have run with the stock ring, but I know it starts great, and runs great with the Bowman ring, and I couldn't be happier. Since then I've accumulated a few more DLE engines (DLE-20, (2) DLE-30's, and a DLE-55), and I'm wondering for somebody low on funds (or out of funds in my case lol) would a Bowman ring be necessary to achieve all the things listed above, or do the newer rear carb DLE engines run good out of the box with the stock rings? I still would like to replace all the stock rings with Bowman rings in the future, as funds become available. But if they aren't necessary for a good starting, good running, engine (out of the box) I'd like to hold off on ordering them for now until I can better afford them. Any advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Mark
Posted on: 1/5/2012 10:18 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10894214

RE: Ad Description Text Editor has a Mind of it's own!!!
Thanks for the reply...But it doesn't really address the problem I'm having. I'm not having a problem trying to make my ads look good by selecting between the options available in the text editor. I'm having a problem with the text editor not doing what I'm telling it to do. And every time I go back to the editor to try and make changes, the text is all randomly changed around again to something different. So I have to start from scratch every time I go back to edit my ad. I have so much to sell, and so little time to do it. That I think this time around I'll just list everything on eBay. Because I'm only getting frustrated trying to post here. Thanks again for trying to help, though. Mark
Posted on: 12/12/2011 9:53 AM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "MarketPlace questions or problem?"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10855767

Ad Description Text Editor has a Mind of it's own!!!
Hi, I've been posting ads on RCU for years, and have never had a problem with the text editor before. I would routinely increase the size of important text, shrink the size of less important text, indent where needed, and center text to make it stand out more. Lately, after spending countless hours getting my ads looking just the way I want them...the preview shows NOTHING like the way I set my ad up to be. The fonts are usually different than what I selected. The spacing is all messed up! The text sizes are all screwed up! Each line of text seems to be randomly indented on the page. The editor seems to have a mind of it's own!!! I've tried the full editor, and even learned the source code for the basic editor. But nothing seems to work! It seems like I have no say in how my ads look anymore! I try to make all my ads visually pleasing, and as professional as I can. But the way the editor has been working it makes my ads look like they were done by a 6 year old. Why isn't the editor doing what I tell it to do anymore? Mark
Posted on: 12/9/2011 1:44 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "MarketPlace questions or problem?"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10851907

RE: How to Setup A123 Pack with Charge & Arming Switch Capabilities?
Thanks for the tip ramboman! While perusing the internet, I noticed that 4A is the maximum they recommend charging at using the balance connector alone. So using both connectors (or just the discharge connector for those that don't feel the need to balance every flight) seems like the only way to go for charging at higher C rates, and does coincide with what you are saying. Mark
Posted on: 11/19/2011 9:28 AM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10819457

RE: How to Setup A123 Pack with Charge & Arming Switch Capabilities?
Thanks for the link Johnny! Funny story...I was just at hangtimes yesterday, but only checked out the A123 FAQ. I didn't noticed the A123 Setup Guide lol. You were right...all the info, and diagrams you'd ever need. Mark
Posted on: 11/16/2011 9:48 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10815888

RE: How to Setup A123 Pack with Charge & Arming Switch Capabilities?
Joe, Thanks for the info. Would it be possible to post some photos of your setup when you get the time? Sounds simple enough. But it always helps seeing something to make sure I'm understanding it properly. You say you don't need to use the charge port on the battery pack. But isn't balance charging just as important with LiFe cells as it is with LiPo cells? If so, and even if it's only needed once and awhile, the guy I'm doing the conversion for doesn't EVER want to take the plane apart (unless absolutely necessary). So if it is recommended that the battery pack be balanced at some point during it's life, I'd still have to make the balance connector accessible from the outside of the airframe. To achieve the charge times I'd like with my battery pack I'll need to charge at 6.9A or more (2300mAh at 3C). Mark
Posted on: 11/11/2011 10:18 AM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10807234

How to Setup A123 Pack with Charge & Arming Switch Capabilities?
Hi, I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this question, but figured it was the best place to start... I'm converting a friends SIG 4-Star 40 from glow to electric, and we decided to permanently mount one 5-cell A123 2300mAh pack for the power source. Rather than making a hatch, or removing the wing, to swap out packs between each flight. The only problem with relying on only one battery pack is you have to charge the pack at a high C rate (3C-4C) if you don't want to wait an hour between each flight. Which leads to my question... I was originally planning on making a small access panel to access the balance charge connector on the battery pack, and using one of those MPI arming switches to disconnect the battery until needed. Then I realized that this setup would only work if charging at a low C rate. I forgot when charging at a high C rate you need to use the balance port AND the main power connector. So my question is...Does any have a simple setup for charging with the balance connector AND the main power connector, and also disabling the battery until needed? I imagine something could be done with something like the MPI arming switch along with some other switches. I want to keep it as simple as I can though, and please keep in mind that my battery, and all connections will be permanently mounted inside the airplane. So all charging connections and switches must be accessible from the outside of the airplane. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated? Thank you, Mark
Posted on: 11/10/2011 8:55 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10806522

RE: NEW DLE30!
Mike, I have a QQ 73" Yak with a DLE-30, and had the same problem with the balance as you do. I've been flying it with the ignition battery mounted to one side of the engine box, the rx battery mounted to the other side of the engine box, the regulator for the ignition on the top of the engine box, the ignition module mounted to one side of the inside of the engine box, and the throttle servo mounted to the other side of the inside of the engine box. Balances perfectly, and I haven't had any problems yet. My radio is a Futaba 9C with a Spektrum module, and the receiver is a Spektrum AR6200. Mark
Posted on: 9/16/2011 4:40 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10720098

RE: HELP...I need advice on a SIG 4 Star 40 conversion!
Never mind...I talked the guy into using the same setup I got in my 30 size airplane (an E-flite Power 46 with 4-cells). Mark
Posted on: 9/11/2011 9:12 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10712226

RE: HELP...Could somebody please give me the stock thrust angles for a QQ 73
Oh, I can repair the cowl...I'm just not sure what the finished product will look like lol. What I usually do is repair all the splits, and tears, in the fiberglass cowl with small strips of fiberglass cloth. Then once the cowl is back in one piece, I work epoxy under all the gel coat, and paint, that has cracked, and lifted away from the fiberglass. After that, I stretch a piece of plastic over the damaged area, and this will squeeze out all the extra epoxy. Then I remove the plastic, and clean up all the epoxy that squeezed out with alcohol. Then I stretch another piece of plastic over the same area, and if more epoxy squeezes out I remove it again, and clean it up with alcohol again. I keep repeating these steps until epoxy doesn't ooze out anymore, and then tape the plastic in place. Then I let the epoxy cure. After it cures, just remove the plastic, and the results are usually pretty good. You can usually still see where the cracks were. But the epoxy seems to seal everything up pretty good, and even holds the paint, and gel coat down very well. I've never had it lift up again after gluing it back down again this way. I don't really want to put any more money into this airplane. So the fix should be fine. Mark
Posted on: 9/6/2011 7:30 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10704977

RE: HELP...Could somebody please give me the stock thrust angles for a QQ 73
Hill202, Getting a replacement cowl would be a good idea if I was planning on recovering the the whole airplane. But the only thing that got damaged on the airplane other than the cowl is the engine box. So I plan on sticking with the original covering. The only problem with that is the QQ Yak has a multi-colored covering scheme that would be expensive to duplicate, and very difficult to match, on a blank fiberglass cowl. Thanks for the tip though! Mark
Posted on: 9/5/2011 7:15 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10703325

RE: HELP...Could somebody please give me the stock thrust angles for a QQ 73
Thanks David...The degrees should be fine. I really appreciate the time you took getting this information for me. If I would have known how involved getting these measurements were, I probably would have told you to hold off on them, for now. Thanks again for your help! Mark
Posted on: 9/5/2011 10:42 AM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10702643

HELP...I need advice on a SIG 4 Star 40 conversion!
Hi, A friend of mine wants me to convert his SIG 4 Star 40 to electric, and I was wondering if I could get some advice on what power system to use? He said I could keep all the glow equipment in the airplane for doing it. He has an OS .46AX in it right now, and would like to have similar performance after the conversion. The airplane weighs 5 lbs 2 oz with no fuel in the tank, before the conversion. If it was my airplane I'd just use an E-flite Power 46 with 4-cells. As I have this setup in one of my airplanes and am extremely satisfied with the performance (I'm using an APC 14x7E prop). My problem with his airplane is that he asked me to try and come up with a power system that will use only 3-cells if possible. I know you can only get so much power out of 11.1V. But does anyone know of a power system that would satisfy his request? We determined that he'd need a system that would supply somewhere around 550W to perform the way he'd like (at least according to the performance chart E-flite includes with all their motors). Radical RC has a conversion chart on their SIG 4 Star 40 web page that lists a Himax 2528-1000 motor on 3-cells, with a 12x6 prop, producing 501W (although Himax lists this motor with a max of only 450W). Other than that, I don't know enough about this stuff to know whether it is even possible to get the performance he is after on only 3-cells? I noticed that they list Rimfire .32 motors starting at 11.1V. But I don't know what prop to use, or what kind of performance I'd get from this motor. I know I get 450W out of the Rimfire .25 with an APC 12x6E prop. So before I buy a system that may not give him the performance he's after. I was wondering if somebody could help me out in choosing a power system for this conversion? ...I'd prefer buying the components from Tower Hobbies, if possible. As I'm a member there, and get considerable discounts. I'd appreciate any advice on this matter. Thank you, Mark
Posted on: 9/2/2011 8:51 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10699102

RE: HELP...Could somebody please give me the stock thrust angles for a QQ 73
Thanks Dave! Yeah..If you could just get a dim from each of the 4 corners back to the first bulkhead. That will be enough to calculate the angles. I forgot to mention, when my Yak went in it didn't only mess up the front of the airplane, it also tore the gear mounting block out. I even had the block reinforced a bit, too. I was happy to see that my modified aluminum gear held up fine though. Mark
Posted on: 9/2/2011 12:23 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10698580

RE: HELP...Could somebody please give me the stock thrust angles for a QQ 73
Hi Dave, Thanks for the help. I don't know if the thrust angles are the same, or not? But if it wouldn't be to much trouble I'll take what you got. If I don't get any replies from somebody that has the 73" version, your's will probably be a good place to start. I got carried away, and ran out of gas pretty low over the corn field. I just had enough airspeed to make it back to the field. But unfortunately, I didn't have enough airspeed to bring it in from there. It ended up stalling a few feet up, and dropped down on the front end. No damage from the first bulkhead (the one the engine box attaches to) back. But it shattered my engine box, and messed up my cowl pretty good. The aluminum, modified patty landing gear, survived without any damage, too! Should be an easy fix, as far as the airframe is concerned. I'll only be able to do so much with the cowl though. Wish I could find some place that still sold replacement parts. I'd probably just buy a cowl if I could. Oh well, I don't plan on fixing up the Yak until Winter. So I got plenty of time to figure out what I'm going to do. Mark
Posted on: 9/1/2011 8:46 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10697771

HELP...Could somebody please give me the stock thrust angles for a QQ 73" Yak?
Hi, I messed up the front of my QQ 73" Yak on a dead stick landing, and was wondering if somebody could give me the stock right thrust, and down thrust (if any), for the engine mounting surface? I've been flying it for awhile with a DLE-30 gas engine, and the stock thrust angles are just about right. So I plan on rebuilding the front end with the same thrust angles if possible. Thank You, Mark
Posted on: 8/30/2011 9:24 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10694471

RE: NEW DLE30!
bgw45, Thanks for the reply. I haven't had any problems with the side mounted carb. But may be putting the DLE-30 into another airplane where the rear carb would be a better fit. DaleD, If you are referring to the photo of my choke linkage, the photo was actually taken with the engine right side up. So you are correct. When the engine is mounted in the airplane inverted, the carb would be on the right side...Good eye! Something else that I should have mentioned with my linkage is that I'm pretty sure this method will only work with the side mounted carb version. The choke arm on the rear carb version is actuated at a different angle, and would most likely have to go forward (like shown in Mike's photos).
Posted on: 8/28/2011 8:03 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691222

RE: NEW DLE30!
For those of you that have converted your side carb DLE-30's to a rear mounted carb... After the conversion, did you start your engine up for the first time with the same carb settings you used before the conversion, or did you go back to the factory settings (Low 1-1/4 turns and High 1-3/4 turns, in my case) and adjust from there? I'm guessing there will be a difference in the carb settings based on the two different carb locations? I just don't what to expect, or how different the settings will be? Any tips will be appreciated. Mark
Posted on: 8/28/2011 10:45 AM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10690578

RE: NEW DLE30!
cloudancer03, I've always had good luck with just attaching a short pushrod to the choke arm with a ball link, and passing it directly through the side of the cowl. I drill the hole in the cowl just big enough to press a small servo grommet into it. So the pushrod will not vibrate in the hole while the engine is running. I then attach a wheel collar to the end of the pushrod for something to grab on to. I don't show the cowl in the photo. Because the linkage is on the inside and wouldn't show with it on. But everything needed is shown in the photo. The cowl would just be where the grommet is shown in the photo. This is the linkage I use in my QQ Yak. Mark
Posted on: 8/27/2011 7:49 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10689940

RE: NEW DLE30!
On my QQ 73" Yak the throttle servo is about 3-1/2" away from the Ignition Module...No problems at all. The throttle servo is designed to be installed behind the wing tube. But I needed to bring everything as far forward as possible to balance the airplane. I cut a hole in one side of the engine box to mount the throttle servo in (from the inside), and the Ignition Module was mounted to the inside of the opposite side of the engine box. My receiver battery, and my ignition battery, are both mounted to outside of the engine box (one on each side), and my regulator (for the ignition module) is mounted on the top of the engine box. So I got the front end of the airplane pretty full with components lol. Ideally I would have liked to spread out my components a little more. But the Yak is so narrow, and so tail heavy (at least with the DLE-30) that I had no choice if I didn't want to add weight to the front of the airplane. I think most of the problems with ignition interference is with the older 72MHz systems. I've never had any problems with my Spektrum systems, anyway. Mark
Posted on: 8/27/2011 7:08 PM by Author "3D Romeo" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10689895