RE: OS Max 45FSR Engine questions
Thanks for your thoughts Got some more checking to to, but the grandkids are over (+/-) some other sutff, so it'll be a day or 3 before I can check all those things. 'twas interesting tho - when I first started it, it would only run with the -provided- glow plug nwith the glow starter on. would not run when I took the glow starter off. Replaced it with a Tower Hobbies el-cheapo glow plug and it ran fine.. I suppose I'm expeecting around 14k r's with a 10x6 if it is anywhere near equivalent to a newer OS 46FX. Maybe I'm asking too much??? Didn't want to crank it up too hard on the first run, so will try tightening thigns up and put a tac on it. Back to you mid week. Thanks for all the suggestions. Pete
Posted on: 7/7/2012 3:18 PM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146829

RE: OS Max 45FSR Engine questions
Just bought an OS 45FSR NIB at an R/C yard sale. It had a glow plug. Compression was relatively poor - seemed quite poor for a New but old engine! even with the glow plug in. It starts and runds pretty well with a 10x6 prop, but I would not say it is any where near a 46FX. Anyone experiencing such low compression with a Niew - Old engine? Anyone have any ideas as to why the compression is low - it is not a ringed engine. Pete
Posted on: 7/7/2012 8:21 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146426

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Thanks Andy Now I'm trying to go through the installation in my head. Do your retracts all retract forward? Or just the front goes forward or rearward?? Did you need to make wheel locations for the wheels to retract to? I did this a long time ago with a 40-size P51 and made the wheel wells out of 1/64th ply. Did you do that? Also, where did you mount the steering servo? Just wondering if you could send along some pics? Also, since the EFlight retracts are kinda pricey, I see some that look pretty similar on HobbyKing. Anyone have any experience with them? Thanks again Pete
Posted on: 2/12/2012 8:36 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10955346

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Finally found a Lanier Shrike 40 on ebay - it's now on the building board. My power arrangement will be a Webra 50 with performance pipe. My question is, retracts. One of the guys at my flying field suggested eflight tricycle retracts, but they come in several sizes - 10 - 25, 25 - 40 and one for 6 size planes. These look the least compkicated, but are pricey - $169 + shipping. I'm not sure the 10 - 25 size retracts will be strong enough, but on the other hand, the 25 - 40 size might be both too heavy and more cumbersome. Has anyone done retracts on a 40 size Shrike, and what is your experience? I did retracts a long time ago with a single retract servo, but that would be just waay too cumbersome. Anyone wiht suggestions etc. will be grandly received. Thanks Pete in Land O lakes, FL
Posted on: 2/11/2012 9:34 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10954225

RE: New to me Aeromaster
[size=4]Hey - I for one certainly do not have a problem with this discussion and am enjoying the thread. One reasons is that I just purchased a partially built Great Planes Aeromaster - from Ebay - about a month ago, but unfortunately haven't even had the time to take it out of the shipping box. FYI - about 6 years ago - or maybe it was 8 years ago, I got started building an Aeromaster from the kit, and possibly didn't do a great job with the fuselage, so had a friend build the wings for me. Then a club member offerred to cover it for me, at which time I bought the covering materials and gave him the entire prepped model. Unfortunately, the friend had the model in his basement and the whole model, covering and all was lost due to a flood he had in his basement. So from there, another club member gave me - essentially a bag of parts of a partially wrecked Aeromaster with 2 wings. Unfortunately, they were two bottom wings so I had Larry K build me a top wing, and I put it together with ailerons on top and bottom using HS 225MG servos for the ailerons. As I noted previously, I tried to do a tricky thing and mounted the elevator servo on the outside of the fuselage about half way back, which I'm certain upset the balance, the result of which has made the airplane quite a bit heavier. However, with a Saito 100 that I also bought on eBay, it goes along pretty nicely, but definitely could drop a # - so I'm now in the process of moving the servo to it's original location. With luck I should be able to remove about 8 oz of lead. Hopefully more! Anyway - sorry to have bored some of you, but I had a bit of time, and felt the urge to keep my typing skills up. And if I can add something else, I do not find flying a biplane any more difficult than a similar performing monoplane - the primary difference is that bipes have more drag, so slow down faster and take a bit more power to get into the air. And since they have more wing area, they are a bit more susceptible to cross winds. Otherwise they are fun to fly. Best luck Pete
Posted on: 12/5/2011 2:49 PM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10844783

RE: New to me Aeromaster
OH MY!!! AND tHANKS LARRY K FOR BUILDING MY TOP WING! STILL HAVE IT AND IT FLIES GOOD - SHOULD BE GREAT, BUT THE PROBLEM MAY BE THE THING OPERATING THE STICKS! HA! BACK TO THE ORIGINAL PRBLEM WITH THE WEIGHT - I'D THINK THAT THERE MUST BE ADDITIONAL WEIGHT IN THE BACK END SOME WHERE. JUST THINK - USING THE PRINCIPLES OF A LEVER, A COUPLE OUNCES AT THE REAR WILL MULTIPLY - MAYBE 6 - 10 FOLD TO TRY TO BALANCE THE ADDITIONAL WEIGHT UP FRONT. tHAT IS, 3 OUNCES AT THE TAIL WILL REQUIRE AS MUCH AS 10 OUNCES OF WEIGHT AT THE FIREWALL. BECAUSE I COULD, I DRILLED A 1/4" HOLE THROUGHT THE FIREWALL AT THE CG POINT AND INSTALLED A 1/4"DOWELL WHICH MADE CERTAIN THAT I COULD BALANCE THE MODEL AT THAT POINT WHENEVER I WAS CONCERNED ABOUT WHETHER THE CG WAS STILL OK. PETE
Posted on: 12/5/2011 8:51 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10844230

RE: New to me Aeromaster
I suppose you are certain that it does weigh in at 12# If you hven't checked youself, you might want to borrow your wife's kitchen scale and see if it really tops 12# Seems like there's a lot of lead in that somewhere. I am a builder and most of my airplanes come out heavy for some reason. One reason is I like Ultracote, which is a bit heavier than some other coverings. Also, do take a good look at the internals to see what is making up the heaviness! Pete
Posted on: 12/4/2011 11:25 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10842714

RE: New to me Aeromaster
[quote]ORIGINAL: All Day Dan It's always the top wing. Dan. [/quote] [font="Tahoma"][/font][size=4][/size]The plans of the Great Planes Aeromaster show the CG can be measured from the firewall back about 6.00 inches. Also concerning weight - my Aeromaster, which is partly early Aeromaster and partly GP Aeromaster - I acquired a somewhat broken model from a friend - came out to be just a bit over 9#. It is powered with a Saito 100GK and contributing to the weight is the fact that I placed the elevator servo toward the rear, which you may be able to see in the photo. I think I could drop quite a bit of weight by moving the engine forward and removing some of the lead (at least 8oz.) I have mounted in the front to compensate for the apparently heavy rear. Do what you can to keep the weight as low as possible - it'll make handling much better. Pete
Posted on: 12/2/2011 6:25 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10839542

RE: Snappy Sukhoi ARF
[quote]ORIGINAL: speedracerntrixie I'm not all that familiar with this particular airplane but I have some questions that apply. What size is the model? It's a 40 size - 59" wingspan How much does it weigh? About 4# What engine size is reccomended? 40 2c 70 4c What did you use? Saito 80 - 13x6 MAS prop Just how many degrees of throw do you have on the elevator? Low rates - 15 deg - High rates - 40 deg Expo? about 40% How many degrees of right thrust? Not sure - what ever was set up in the ARF. Does it always snap to the same direction? YES What direction is it? Drops right wing - snaps to the right! How much elevator trim was needed? about 2 degrees down What are wing, tail and engine angles? Did not check engine, but h-stab is zero and wing seems to be maybe pos 0.5 degree CG - recommended = 3.5" to 4.0" - set to just under 3.2" This information really is needed to make an accurate assumption on what is going on. In some cases I have seen a noseheavy airplane behave worse. Getting the wings strait will help of course and the goal would be to get the wing set to positive 1 degree while engine will be 2 to 3 degrees right and zero down. The stab will be at zero. CG will be correct when no elevator trim is needed provided everything else is set as described. [/quote]
Posted on: 6/2/2011 3:28 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10552884

RE: Snappy Sukhoi ARF
[quote]ORIGINAL: Kostas1 [i]Pete[/i] your [size=3][b][color=#009900]SU[/color][/b][/size], looks awesome....the maiden flight ; [/quote] Thanks for the kudos! Actually other than the snapping, it generally flies better than I do, which doesn't say a whole lot! I do like to do a lot of snap rolls and spins, loops and rools, but certainly not anywhere near professional! Take off's are easy, but the landings need to be a bit hot! Get close to the ground at low (not minimum throttle) then cut the throttle and it lands it self. Now if I can just get the snapping under control!!!! Added Pic of My Sig Ultimate profile - just finished kit! Powered with Saito 50 - not quite enuf ooomph! but a fun-to-fly airplane! Pete
Posted on: 6/1/2011 7:30 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10551539

RE: Snappy Sukhoi ARF
Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions. As far as reducing the elevator - if I reduce it much more, it would be almost useless. As far as the CG, it's at the far forwar point of the recommended CG. For pics - see the attached - just took this AM. I did an incidence check, and all I can truly check is the root, as the ailerons go all the awy out to the tip, but there seems to be a 1 degree difference at the root. I'm going to add a shim on one side to correct that and suppose we'll see if it has the right effect. Thanks again Pete
Posted on: 6/1/2011 5:51 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10551403

Snappy Sukhoi ARF
I have built two of these Hirobo Sukhoi 31M ARFS (Jurgis Kaierys Model) Wing Span about 59" (supposedly 40 size model) - when they were on sale for $90 (original price was $250) about 4 years ago (hmmm - maybe 6??) The first was really solid after I rebuilt the landing gear mount - very reliable with a Saito 80. Unfortunately I crashed it in a contest trying to do stuff that was frankly beyond my capability - ugh. I built the second one as close to the way I configured the furst one, but this model seems very prone to snaps with - even a medium elevator. With the elevator on high rates, just forget doing any sort of linear loop - just snaps out at the slightest touch!. Anyone have suggestions to tame the beast? The elevators on both sides are solid and equal. Not really sure if the wing is twisted, but it appears not. Balance is at about the recommended balance point. If I can't cure it - it'll go to the bad flying graveyard. Someone please send me some advice. Thanks Pete
Posted on: 5/31/2011 5:14 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10549530

RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ??
Sure looks good from here! I did a similar thing to my crashed and probably bashed Aeromaster. Put the elevator servo in the rear which made it tail heavy - had to add a bunch of weight to the font even with a Saito 100 in the nose. Added aileron servos all 4 ailerons. Makes it quite responsive. What is that engine with 2 glow plugs?
Posted on: 4/13/2011 5:56 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10460025

RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ??
OK - regrding the CG - here's another point from a sim ilar model. I built an Aeromaster some time ago from a wreck someone gave me. This is a 60 size, and actually seems to have parts from the Great Planes model and the Lou Andrews model, and it came out a bit on the heavy side so I powered it with a Saito 100. Using the marked CG on the plans for the Great Planes 60 size Aeromaster, the CG is a bit forward of the center spar of the lower wing but a bit rearward of the leading edge of the lower wing. Another FYI - I built in ailerons on the top wing and activated them with servos, so I have servos for all 4 ailerons. Makes it a lot more resoonsive - a comment from another Aeromaster flier at our field that flew it for me for comparison's purposes. This baby flies quite nicely. Hope this helps! Pete
Posted on: 1/21/2011 12:08 PM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10278549

RE: Sig Ultimate fun fly
Does anyone have any tops in building this kit? Picked it up about a year ago, and now it's too cold to fly. I'm first going to have a set of the plans copied so I have something to hang on the wall while building. I have a Saito 56 for power - and saw someone's idea of moving the servos to the rear. someone ellse said he used HS-81 servos, but they seem a little underppowered?? Any tips would be quite helpful. Thanks
Posted on: 12/26/2010 3:02 PM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10219441

RE: Katana Profile ARF 63
Please accept my apology for jumping in on this discussion, but I couldn't find the 'right' one! Anyway - Just put together a profile Katana 48" wingspan - powering with a Webra 50 with an 11x 5 prop. Had to be a bit creative about the throttle servo, but other than that, it's pretty stock. All-up weight w/about 1/2 tank of fuel is about 5.5# Maiden is tomorrow.
Posted on: 8/18/2010 4:11 PM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9943086

RE: Prop & Plug for a Webra 50GT?
Thanks so much all for your thoughts and suggestions. Right now I'm on a vacation and have no time to fiddle with it for the time being. The first thing I'll try is to try some 5% fuel to see if that does anything. After that, if it doesn't do a fix, I'll take it apart to see if anything's amiss. I don't think so as I've rbuilt quite a few motors in the past. I did order a new piston and cyslinder set, so may install that and try again if the fuel thing doesn't work. Thanks again everyone. Pete
Posted on: 8/12/2010 8:29 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9928198

RE: SIG ULTIMATE FUN FLY 32 HELP
Just picked up a kit and that's my next project. Power - Saito 56 Not too sure about the rest. Any free advice?
Posted on: 8/10/2010 5:23 PM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9924549

RE: Prop & Plug for a Webra 50GT?
With a bit more rich on the needle, it just seems to blubber and when it gets cranked up, it just dies to apoint I can't save it. This engine seems to have good compression, but I ordered a piston and cylinder to be sure. FYI - I've been running 15% or 20% nitro on this engine previous to the crash and never had problems. Maybe the shim is the right answer? I typically use 20-20 fuel for all of my 2 and 4 strokes.
Posted on: 8/9/2010 7:02 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9920540

RE: Prop & Plug for a Webra 50GT?
Another issue on a Webra 50GT I'm running an 11 x 5 prop using 15% nitro and a Tower plug. Starts and runs fine, but if I crank it up, it gets to top rpm then quits immediately. May be getting too hot. Not sure about that? I'm thinkinng the piston and cylinder is too worn. This engine was in a previous profile model that lost battery or signal and went straight into a pond. Broke the crankshaft which I replaced and it's now in a new profile model that I cannot get flying due to the unreliability of the engine.. Any thoughts anyone?
Posted on: 8/8/2010 4:51 PM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9919188

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
As a previous RC Combat pilot, I got used to putting two HS-81MG servos in the wings. Those combat planes have no landing gear, so I opted to putting the servo control arms on top. Maybe not so nice, but I can hit the spoilers if I'm coming in too fast and the servos never break due to belly landings. Of course the compromise is the slick look. Then of course there's a little bit more weight up front as the location of the servos is a bit forward. Ooops! Now I checked my model and looks like I put the servo controls on the bottom. Had several landings and haven't had a problem yet. But notice the general location of the servos is a bit forward.... Maybe I should take my own advice??? Pete
Posted on: 12/5/2009 10:16 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9305470

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Lucky You There are some treasures out there! Keep the pics coming - although I suspect Anchorage weather may not be too conducive to a maiden far a few months. Pete
Posted on: 12/2/2009 6:44 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9297025

RE: JR XP8103 Programming
OK - it's been a while since I had to program this radio, but here's what I'd like to do: I have two servos to actuate the elevators - one for each half. I want to program the radio so that the elevators act normally, but would like to switch so that the turn with the ailerons. Which channels do I use for which elevator half? I use seperate servos for the ailerons so that I can activate spoilers of flaperons on occasion. How do I program the radio? Any suggestions? I have a Futaba Super 7 that I think I can make work, but I'd sure like to use the JR XP8103. Pete in Land O Lakes, FL
Posted on: 11/10/2009 2:15 PM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9243511

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
[quote]ORIGINAL: WMB Sounds like it may be nose heavy. Mine came out nose heavy with both the 15 and 25. Does it need a lot of down elevator to fly level while inverted? Mine rolls to the left on launch, that's normal. Have fun with it, MikeB [/quote] Thanx WMB The balance point is per the plans. I'd sure hate to make it tail heavy!!! Suggestions on balance point? I haven't tried inverted - 'twas quite a handful just trying to get the trims even close to right - except for flying slow for a landing - lands like a kitten. I was hoping for a high speed low pass, but kicking in throttle makes it a serious handful! P
Posted on: 10/4/2009 10:48 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9145458

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I finally did my maiden flight on my Shrike with a K&B 3.5 (.20) engine. It has a tendency to go up at full throttle, and I can't seem to put enough down throttle. It also has a tendency to roll left. Do I need to add some down thrust or right thrust?[8|] Slow flignt seems to be just fine. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Pete
Posted on: 10/4/2009 9:24 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9145331

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I recently saw a 40 Shrike kit on Ebay. Didn't bid on it, but probably should have! Check ebay - one will show up periodically.
Posted on: 8/29/2009 7:52 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9053831

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Hi Harlan Saw your photos and it sure looke like the K&B 3.5. Originally the later models came with the funky dual exhaust that shows on my Shrike and a remote needle. So yours looks like a bit of an older one. I am not a pipe person, but seems like that should work pretty well. FYI - mine runs about 15k with an 8 x 4 prop with the funky exhaust. You may be able to get any OEM parts from MECOA. The bearings in mine were totally rusted from my poor storage. I ordered a new set and it's smoth as silk. There may be other parts @ MECOA as well. You may be able to do a guestimate by looking at the MACS web site and see what they recommend for a .20 size engine. But I think the pipe you put in the phots is probably the right one. My general rule is - "put it together and fire it up" I don't think you can hurt it if the pipe is the wrong length. It just won't "get on the pipe" which should be up around 16k - 18k rpms. Good luck and let me know how it comes out, Pete
Posted on: 8/2/2009 7:18 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8983171

RE: Goldberg Cub Rudder control ?
Why can't I ever remeber that - using arrow shafts. Gotta stick that somewhere so I can remember it! Grand idea.....
Posted on: 7/13/2009 3:13 PM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8929494

RE: Which engine? Goldberg Cub
If you read the engine requirements in the manual, it says anything from a 40 to 91 will work. I have had a Goldberg cub for quite a few years - initially powered with an OS 70, but it seemed a bit underpowered when flown on floats. Replaced the OS70 with a Saito 91 purchased on ebay several years ago. With the Saito 91 it comes off water with authority. Flies wonderfully at half throttle, floats or wheels but will do some pretty spiffy stuff if you open up the throttle. You need to be careful not to go full throttle when taking off or it will ground loop from the torque. Recently crashed it and rebuilt it using ARF colors - or close to thereabouts. Pics included........
Posted on: 7/6/2009 11:29 AM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8910580

RE: Goldberg Cub Rudder control ?
I'm a bit late in posting a reply, but I frequently use the pull=pull system for the rudder. On my previous Goldberg J3 Cub, I used the yellow rods and they worked just fine. Just do get most of the slop out of them so they pull nicely. You will not need any sort of internal support. Good Luck and do let us know how it all works out. Pete
Posted on: 6/2/2009 12:11 PM by Author "4dogspete" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8819600