RE: whats next
Probably another RTF foam electric toy!!!
Posted on: 5/21/2013 8:14 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518844

RE: GP extra 300s build
t-max, What color monokote do have on the bottom of the wing? If it's "insignia blue", I've got a roll and I'll "loan" you enough to repair the wing. P.S. I don't think your drawing is to scale!!!
Posted on: 5/18/2013 9:43 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515723

RE: GP extra 300s build
If you really feel that one wing is more "twistable" than the other, you don't have to completely strip that wing just remove the covering on the bottom for closer inspection. It is possible that you broke a few glue joints with the impact with the pole (you were way off the runway to hit that weren't you). I have opened up some used ARF wings for recover only to find that about the only thing holding the parts in place was the covering! Yet they still "flew". So if you are sure one side of the wing is "wounded" and it concerns you, strip the bottom for inspection and access to reglue the loose joints. It won't require 2 rolls of covering. It's a judgement call whether to fly it some more as is or go in with the glue. No one likes to cut the covering back off a plane you just built, and yours looks real nice, so it's up to you...fly it some more....or open it up and do a little recovering.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 8:52 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514863

RE: GP extra 300s build
t-max97, Move down to the "questions and answers" section and read the "tuning with your snoot up in the air" thread. The guys banter back and forth with the right way (with two people) and wrong way (with only you holding and adjusting) to set and test the mixture before takeoff. You may find it interesting. Trying to do this alone is dangerous, get help!
Posted on: 5/16/2013 11:31 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513914

RE: GP extra 300s build
I hope you didn't scratch the polished landing gear!!! ...............OK, I am glad the plane survived intact. It sorta sounds like you had the needle valve (mixture) set too lean. One of the preflight test that some folks do is to have some one turn the plane pointing straight up while the engine is running a WOT to see if it sputters, sags, or cuts completely off. If it does any of those things it's set too lean and you would go a quarter to a half turn richer with the needle valve and try it again. Pointing the plane straight up to test it is the same condition you put it in climbing for that hammerhead. Also consider the other possibilities as you mentioned, but it may be simply too lean.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 11:06 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513909

RE: cub cowl???
Jim, The replacement cowl for the Horizon Hobby 40 size Cub ARF is a good fit on a Goldberg Cub. They sell for $20-25, come pre-painted in Cub yellow, and have fax engines on both sides. It's a nice upgrade on a Goldberg cub. It's part #HAN4004. Keep those Cubs flying!
Posted on: 5/16/2013 10:47 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513902

RE: 1/4 scale Ace Taylorcraft
Check on "fleebay", they come up there from time to time. I remember one listed there not long ago and could possibly still be there. They do sell at a strong price when available. Most good kits on "fleebay" bring good money these days. Supply and demand!!
Posted on: 8/15/2012 4:58 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194955

RE: HobbyZone Struts?
Yes, they only work when the plane is in an upright position and the wing lift is "pulling" the wing upward pulling on the struts. If the plane is being flown inverted then these floppy struts do nothing in compression to reinforce the wing. I have been told that the wing can fail if flown inverted with the stock struts. Don't know if that is true or not as I reinforced mine with bamboo skewers from the get go.
Posted on: 8/13/2012 9:27 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192537

RE: K&B Sportster Club
earlwb and spaceworm, Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I do use an electric starter so I've set the engine out on my workbench and will reinstall the gasket tomorrow. The thrust washer is still there up front too. Thanks again for not letting me get lazy, I knew it should be put back in, I just sometimes need to be told!
Posted on: 8/13/2012 9:10 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192520

RE: K&B Sportster Club
I recently aquired a K&B Sportster .65 as part of a lot of seven used engines that I purchased. I had no idea what it was untill I researched it on this thread. It came with both rear cover plates. I removerd the one with the mounting ears to peak inside (nice and clean) and installed the standard one to fit the engine into my test stand to bench run it. I pre lubed everything inside with after run oil before running the engine and the bench test went very well. It's a good runner and was no problum to tune, ran a full tank of fuel thru it. It did leak exhaust residue at all the muffler assembly joints so after cleaning it up for storage I sealed all the assembly joints with a small neat coating of high temp silicone including the rear cover plate with the mounts which is the one to be used in the airplane. OK, here's the question.....I unknowingly left out the rear cover gasket when I reassembled it using just the high temp silicone. I found the gasket a week later and figured out it belongs to the K&B sportster. Is it needed for thrust spacing agianst the back plate or is it just there for sealing? Should I put it back in just to be safe? EZ to do, just four bolts add the gasket and reseal with silicone. I am looking forward to flying this engine in a Balsa USA phantom II bipe which I aquired partially completed in the same lot as the engine. Thanks for all the info I picked up from the previous posters on this thread.
Posted on: 8/12/2012 7:12 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190975

RE: engine/wing question
As everyone else has said, it will fly fine as is, but if you are bugged by the gap where the wing halves are joined please do the following....fill the gap with epoxie and cover it! Run a strip of masking tape across the bottom of the wing at the joint, then with the wing right side up fill the gap (several applications may be needed) untill it is flush and smooth on the top, and then cover the joint with a 1" strip of matching covering or tape. The epoxie will improve the strength of the joint and the covering will improve the looks. Your "woops" will be gone. Mr67stang told you how to fix the vertical stab. Your plane looks like a Tower Hobby 40 trainer. That's a good flying trainer....enjoy!
Posted on: 8/2/2012 5:34 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179066

RE: Covering Question
You do not have to press the covering to the rib cap strips. "Nail" it down on the leading and trailing edges with your iron plus of course the tips and root area. Hit the rib area with your heat gun to shrink it up nice when your all done. BTY, I have found that if the ribs don't have cap strips they are too weak to press down much with the iron without risking damaging them.
Posted on: 7/27/2012 9:32 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11171902

RE: Spinner nut falls off
Jester s1, I think we've "beaten this horse to death"! I'am done if you are. I promise not to use pliers on my prop nuts if you promise not to use loctite on your prop nuts!!! LOL Just yanking your chain on that one, I think we have to agree to disagree on this one in the context of it being builder's choice. To "goo (loctite) or not to goo" that is the question. Have a good day.
Posted on: 7/26/2012 7:17 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170692

RE: Spinner nut falls off
Villa, Good story. A 1/2 quart of loctite at todays prices by my quick estimate would be worth about $330.00. I've never seen it in that large a quanity. I too was first introduced to loctite in the mid 60's by some sports car racers that I started to crew for. A couple of years later I went to work for CNC machine tool manufacturer where I learned the industrial applications for loctite's various products. It's a valuable product when correctly used in knowledgeable hands and the source of a lot of misinformation by the general public back then and still today. Your point was valid and as such I tried to explain how I delt with complication of not being able to change a prop on the rare occurance you described. As always in this hobby we all have different priorities and various methods to solve problums. One size does not fit all. Thanks for your input.
Posted on: 7/25/2012 5:21 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11169248

RE: Spinner nut falls off
As my last statement says " it's up to the builder to decide". You have decided to not use it and that's fine, I do use it and accept the potential to have a stuborn prop nut. On the rare chance that I can't get a prop replaced at the field, it's not a big deal for me to have to put that plane back in the truck for the day as I always bring more that one plane to the field. Not much down side for me, just hit it with the impact when I get home. Question for you jester s1... If I am just "feeling like I have done something" then why is the nut not comming off easily???
Posted on: 7/24/2012 8:47 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11168146

RE: Spinner nut falls off
Villa, Yes you are absolutely correct, this situtation can occur. This is more likley to happen if too much loctite is used. I accept this possibility as a trade off for the prop comming off. If you are intending to do a lot of prop changes at the field then go EZ on the loctite or skip it untill you have selected the proper prop for the plane in question. I don't do a lot of prop swaping at the field and don't break props very often but if I do break a prop and can't get the nut off with hand tools (I won't grab the drive washer with pliers and chew it all up) I just switch to flying a different plane and take the problum home. Back at the shop one quick hit with an electric inpact gun will always spin the nut right off. We don't have electric at my field and I don't carry an impact gun so it does require retiring that plane for the day if you get in that bind. It dosen't happen much. For me, the fact that the nut resists comming off some times even with proper hand tools, proves that the loctite is doing something and will perhaps save you from a prop comming off in use. It's true, in theory as stated by others just "correct torque on the nut is all you need, no loctite is required" but in the real world that dosen't always work....STUFF happens! That is why there is saftey wire, lock washers, nylock nuts, jam nuts, castelated nuts with drilled bolts and cotter pins, loctite, etc. I believe in two means of securing any hardware. Just making sure.... It's up to the builder to decide.
Posted on: 7/24/2012 8:00 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11168086

RE: I love glow Engines! Where to get a ring for a G90?
Does Tower Hobby have them? They sell the engines.
Posted on: 7/23/2012 8:40 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11166804

RE: ARF or RTF to get the rust off.
Sig Rascal 40 ARF, a 72" w.s. sweet flyer that you won't regret keeping in your hanger. If you want a slower floater go for a Sig Kadet Sr. ARF, 81" w.s. big and EZ to see. It' size makes it loveable even after your through with trainers; candy drops, slow fly it backwards on a windy day, etc. The new just released ARF's have gotten a little pricey (haven't they all) but are still worth it. I think the new Rascal now has flaps too, not sure.
Posted on: 7/23/2012 8:15 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11166780

RE: Spinner nut falls off
OK, you guys may not believe in loctite but I do!! OP, take your choice, try it to see if you like it. Loctite is not glue. It comes in various strenghts denoted by it's color. Blue is what you would use here and for general assembly use. Yes, be aware if retorqueing a wood prop you must overcome the loctite to snug it some more. Not a big deal and neither is "it's hard to change props", it's not if you are using the correct tools, box wrench-YES, a big pair of pliers-NO! Make that HELL NO!!! Ditto to NO VICE GRIPS! Correct size box wrench or socket, 6 point or 12 point are good. Only a small amount is required, one drop per nut. The same amount of torque is required to loosen a loctited assembly as when it was tightened, then the left over loctite acts sorta like a nylock nut and requires a tool to continue to spin it off, not just your fingers. It's EZ to clean off if you decide you don't like it and want to discontinue use on that application. Just clean off the male threads with a small hand wire brush. I have 35 years experence building successful racing engines and race cars, and now model airplanes and have learned how and when to use loctite. The parts didn't fall off my race cars, and they don't fall off my planes if I don't get lazy and forget to use loctite ( 2 stroke engine sheding a prop with no loctite).
Posted on: 7/21/2012 10:34 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164132

RE: help getting my old os46ax running again
Ditto, Listen to GB on this one, he nailed it. Especially the "don't over think it" part!
Posted on: 7/21/2012 9:20 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164082

RE: Spinner nut falls off
boat 58, Try the blue loctite for yourself and decide. It's not glue, and when properly used it works. Please NO "big pair of pliers", just a 6 or 12 point wrench or socket on the prop nut. NO vice grips either!!
Posted on: 7/21/2012 8:57 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164071

RE: going to fly again after 4-5 yr sabbitcal - help getting my planes airworthy again
jester s1 and I don't seem to agree on much so if you you decide to replace the fuel tanks please send them to me. I'll clean them out and use them. Thanks in advance. Please also include the wheels and any of those old 72 mhz Tx & Rx that are not good enough anymore. I'll fly them too! LOL
Posted on: 7/21/2012 8:51 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164066

RE: going to fly again after 4-5 yr sabbitcal - help getting my planes airworthy again
I agree with not replacing any electronics, just the batteries. The servos should be just fine as should be the radios (TX & RX). Test everything and charge up the new batteries. Replacing the fuel lines is a good idea but don't scrap the fuel tanks. Remove them and open them up. Cean them out with alcohol, make sure the klunk works, tighten the stopper and reinstall with new fuel lines. The engine that feels "mushy" will be fine if you pull the glow plug, put several drop of after run oil in the piston area plus a couple of drop in the open carb to pre-lube that area, and then fire it up to run for a few mins. After doing this and a general check over for loose hardware, loose RX mounting, loose wheels ETC, I would do a engine running taxi test and go fly it. Fly the LT40 first to warm up your thumbs. Good luck
Posted on: 7/21/2012 7:51 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164010

RE: Non-OS engines
I agree with GB that it seams to be a lean run condition that is damaging your engines. I have 21 or so O.S. engines in service, in planes, and have had (knock on wood) no failure issues with any of them. I have FP, LA, FX, & AX in assorted sizes .25 to 1.60 and they are all reliable and EZ to tune. Now, I also have 4 Super Tiger engines in service and have also had no failures but they are harder to tune but make lot of power for thier size. If you are not comfortable tuning, stay away from Super Tigers. I have also found that Super Tigers also must be fully warmed up before take off. I also have 1 Thunder Tiger Pro 46 and it is like an O.S. at half the price....reliable, EZ to tune and very user friendly. I like it. When tuning an engine by ear prior to take off I will peak the RPM at full throttle turning the needle valve in a lean direction till it peaks then turn back the needle valve in a rich direction 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, rechecking that I still have good transition from idle to full throttle. it's good to have the engine "warmed up" at this point so it won't lean out more in flight and go dead stick or run lean and overheat, damaging the engine. This is just how I do it, everyone has thier own way, but this works for me and I hope it will help you to. That half a turn in the rich direction will cost a few RPM but will not cost you an engine.
Posted on: 7/21/2012 7:29 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11163991

RE: Spinner nut falls off
jetmech05 is correct on 4 strokes using a double nut assembly. A little blue loctite on the threads won't hurt also. Use blue loctite on 2 stroke prop nuts too. If your using a wooden prop, retorque the nuts after each days flying as the wood props crush with use and need more attention than other prop types. Prop shaft threads and nut threads must be oil free for the loctite to work, clean with alcohol and dry if necessary. Some one smarter than I here on RCU recently explained why left hand threads wouldn't work...something about the "power pulses" when the engine fires is actually in a tighting direction and if it were left hand threads it would want to lossen the prop nut in use. Makes sense as it is when a 4 stroke backfires or runs backwards that the prop will sometimes come loose. A few years ago I also had a 2 stroke shed a spinner nut and wooden prop in flight. Not tight enough, and not loctited!!
Posted on: 7/21/2012 6:40 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11163950

RE: New kit for a Saito 56?
How about a Great Planes Old Timer 40? Tail dragger, sorta old time scale looking, high wing, 73" wingspan, designed as a 3 channel but EZ to make as a 4 channel. This is a discontinued kit but one is for sale on "fleabay" now.
Posted on: 7/17/2012 8:55 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159461

RE: OS-61
For an O.S. 61FX the manufacturer lists (for sport flying) 12x6, 12x7, 12x8, or 13x6, 13x7. There are many varibles in prop size fitment. Try several and select what works well for you. They will all fly the plane including the 11x7.5 that Dave likes. You may want to start there at the 11x7.5 and then try a couple of the larger ones and see what you feel is best. Again they will all fly the plane.
Posted on: 7/3/2012 7:10 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11141981

RE: enough power?
JohnBuckner, Thanks for the informative input re the astounding weight gain on these Kaydet copies. I'm shocked but I guess you get what you pay for. The real Sig Kaydet Sr ARF is now available again and I would advise prospective buyers to stay away from the "LEAD SLED" copies and go for the real Sig Kaydet. There is no cost savings in the cheap copy when you then have to spend another $100 on a larger engine and the final product still won't fly as well as it's lighter smaller engined sister. Tazzzz, I would try the 61FX first, flying without the cowl to see if it works before I cut the cowl to fit the engine. If needed then mount the 91FX and finish the cowl instalation. I'm still in shock.....12 lbs, a 91FX in a fake Kaydet, .....crazy!!
Posted on: 7/2/2012 2:12 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140248

RE: enough power?
I agree with j.dunker, how did you get that plane up to 12 lbs? A taildragger conversion won't do that. Is that 12 lbs with the 55AX or without? Please reweigh the aircraft, 12lbs can't be right. This is a copy of a Sig Kaydet Sr. ARF and my real Sig Kaydet Sr. @ 7 1/2-8.0 lbs. flys well with an O.S. 46 FX. If your copy weighs a little more, say @ 8 1/2-9.0 lbs the 55 AX will fly it. Any heavier than that and a 65 AX or 75 AX should be in there. Start by verifying the 12lb weight, try another scale!! If 12 lbs is indeed correct, then you have a "lead sled" that would need the O.S. 75 AX. It's got plenty of wing area to fly at that weight, it will just need an engine to give it enough air speed to make 12 lbs of lift.
Posted on: 7/1/2012 6:03 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11139123

RE: Leaking muffler
It's not going to see any gasoline...I hope your burning glow fuel in that O.S. 61 FX. Yes, that Permatex hi temp red RTV is the right stuff, use it!
Posted on: 6/29/2012 5:32 PM by Author "52larry52" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137117