RE: Midwest Malibu .40
Wow... This post is sure to win the prize for "most days unanswered"....
Posted on: 5/15/2013 8:50 AM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512240

LiPo's in parallel
I have been searching for information on the limiting factors for wiring LiPo's in parallel, to no avail. Basically, I want to wire up to four (4) same brand, type, capacity MaxAmps.com for all your LiPo, NiMh and NiCd RC Battery Needs. Click here now. batteries together in parallel for my Senior Telemaster. Thunder Power 6G 3300, 6S My electric motor will consume up to 59 Amps max, and I Link this word and every other one like it in our forum to YOUR Website! plan to use a 77A speed control, but in reality I am assuming a continuous consumption of 25 Amps. Am I misguided here? Can you wire more than 2 LiPo battery packs in parallel? Maybe my problem has to do with weak understanding of advanced LiPo usage. My project is to fit a Senior Telemaster with this much capacity to get between 1 and 2 hours of flight time. I picked this setup because the combined weight allows me to get as much capacity as possible for the least weight addition. Any recommendations on how to accomplish this?
Posted on: 12/2/2011 5:47 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "E-Flight Power Sources"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10840534

RE: Lipos in parallel ?
I have been searching for information on the limiting factors for wiring LiPo's in parallel, to no avail. Basically, I want to wire up to four (4) same brand, type, capacity batteries together in parallel for a project. Thunder Power 6G 3300, 6S My electric motor will consume up to 59 Amps max, and I plan to use a 77A speed control, but in reality I am assuming a continuous consumption of 25 Amps. Am I misguided here? Maybe my problem has to do with weak understanding of advanced LiPo usage. My project is to fit a Senior Telemaster with this much capacity to get beyond 1 hour flight time. I picked this setup because the combined weight allows me to get as much capacity as possible for the least weight addition. Any recommendations on accomplishing this?
Posted on: 11/29/2011 8:26 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "E-Flight Power Sources"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10835625

RE: Let's see your workshop
After some time off to finish some school and go through the initial months of fatherhood, I am getting some extra time to think about the shop I want to build. I am in the process of setting up the plans for the house I want to build, (within 2 years) so I get the extra kudos of designing my shop into it, as a separate unit from the garage :)! I have it very accessible from driveway, so I can back my trailer into it and load the planes :) It is isolated from the rest of the house. It measures a "modest" 6 x 6 meters :) 36m² (387ft²) My questions: 1. Windows: Having a window obviously limits wall space. However I have SO much wall space that it might actually be a good thing. Anyone have a shop with windows? 2. Air circulation: I have noticed that many have paint stations, but I have never used these before. I painted outside before. Have strong light to dry the paint? air extraction to take away the fumes? Best system for circulating air from the shop to the outside (for example, is there aything I can have that can help me sucks sawdust as I sand and cut (besides the shopvac hooked up to the electric tool) Filters or a catchbag for all this (for easy cleanup) . I do like to work tidy, and I am hoping to have less trouble cleaning up. Any pointers for proper layout? I really would like to see how the pros set up their shop to minimize setup mistakes.
Posted on: 6/24/2011 3:02 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10590713

RE: Evolution 52 NX with OS 46 Muffler
Thank you guys, I went with the best size available at LHS, but definitely gave me trouble from too much bite. Will try using a lower pitch prop to see if it fixes the problem And thanks for the extra tip on the muffler. Will let you know how it works!
Posted on: 8/30/2010 5:47 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9969902

Evolution 52 NX with OS 46 Muffler
I installed the Evolution 52 NX out of the box on my showtime 50 ARF. When installing, I broke the nipple feeding fuel from the needle valve to the carburetor. Given that I had no replacement nipple on hand, I resolved the problem in the following manner: I unscrewed the nipple installed in the muffler and this fit perfectly where the other nipple used to be. I secured it properly. Since the muffler didn't have a nipple, and I did not have tap guides to re-tap for the O.S. nipple screw (which is different than the Evolution engine's nipple screw, of which I had plenty around the shop) I opted to install the O.S. FX muffler itself, which fit perfectly and had the exact same dimensions than the Evolution Engines muffler seat. I finally had a muffler with pressure line to the tank, and the fuel line to the carb all properly set up, except for this modification. I am using a 15% nitro mix fuel, fresh from the bottle. Using an 11x11 APC prop, then tried a 12x10 APC as well, with same results. (Did not measure RPM, my digital tach was not working.) No pants on the wheels. I started the engine and it purred immediately. Made some rich-lean adjustments by ear and hose pinching, and the engine seemed to be running at max power. After adjusting the engine for a leaner low end mixture, the engine responded perfectly to all ranges of power, did not cut off, and did not stutter. Basically, I was confident the engine was properly set and ready for flying. It ran reliably, not even hinting at wanting to stop. Problem: The full power setting did not seem to develop enough muscle to get my plane off the ground and I was unable to do more than a high speed taxi on the grass field. It just seemed not to have enough RPMS. My theories are: 1. Change of muffler made engine lose crucial RPMS 2. Need a beefier engine for this model Any input? Am I missing something obvious? Just wanted to make sure there were no other issues I was missing before changing the engine.
Posted on: 8/30/2010 2:59 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9969563

RE: Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
I finally came back to Guate, but chickened out on getting the insulation. Too complicated to travel with it. I will check a local air-conditioning company, which had similar boards of lower R value and set these up. I will try to make them fit between the different formers on the roof, but I don't know whether to use tape or some sort of caulking to keep them in place. No screws or piercing materials, I do not want any leaks! What do you guys think is best, tape or caulking?
Posted on: 7/21/2010 10:39 AM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9878737

Insulation Foam Electric plans (p-38 look alike)
I saw a p-38 look alike plane today at a flight club. The guy who flew it told me you could find the plans online. It is made almost entirely of insulation foam (pnik stuff) has a plastic cockpit and outrunner is a pusher. two wood booms go out to the rounded rectangle tail and rudders... Any help finding plans for it?<meta charset="utf-8" /> When I get a chance to download pictures from the camera (no cable right now) will post pics. Thanks!
Posted on: 7/17/2010 11:34 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9871548

RE: Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
If you have power at your field, don't even bother with the 12V system, run a cable from your car's 12V and you'll be fine. I did it because I have no ready access to power at the field, and because I wanted to make it a "luxury" thing. It has been a hands-on learning project regarding electrical setups. Speaking of LEDs, they are quite the bargain when it comes to consumption. Mine barely draw .4 amps (2 8 LED, 2 16 LED, 4 TOTAL) per hour! I just came from Bering's in Houston and they sell these 12V xenon kitchen lights, powered by an AC converter. I was seriously tempted to buy them, but they consume 5 Amps (all three) and I don't plan to be working on the trailer that much. Being in this 100F summer heat, I did realize the insulation and fan are important items, specially if I willl store planes inside the thing for long periods. The fan is only to keep things cool while loading and unloading. I got this one and will cut the wires to make it compatible with the electrical system installed. http://www.o2-cool.com/battery_overview.php Will check up on the R5 insulation at Home Depot tomorrow, I have to figure out how to get it home to Guatemala: Either ship it, or travel with it pre-cut.
Posted on: 7/16/2010 8:41 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9869774

RE: Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
Good thing I am in the USA right now, will hit Home Depot later today and check it out!
Posted on: 7/16/2010 2:01 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9869086

RE: Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
You get this at Home depot?
Posted on: 7/16/2010 12:47 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9868965

RE: Let's see your workshop
THAT'S what I am talking about! Nice!
Posted on: 7/16/2010 10:23 AM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9868731

RE: Let's see your workshop
Still too small, you can't fit a Globemaster in there :(
Posted on: 7/15/2010 8:43 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9867896

RE: Let's see your workshop
This is my lame attemp at reviving this thread! I am in the process of designing my dream wokshop, and I want to think it all well in advance before I build it. I want it to be as tidy and neat as possible. Anyone here have new arrangements? Please send detailed pictures! Thanks
Posted on: 7/11/2010 12:56 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9857807

Bird attacks Radian
Check out this video, pretty cool: http://www.youtube.com/user/nex12go#p/u/7/k3ii17_zej4
Posted on: 7/10/2010 12:25 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Aerial Photography and Video"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9854471

RE: Bird attacks Radian
:)
Posted on: 7/10/2010 12:22 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Aerial Photography and Video"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9856044

RE: 2.4 GHz Compatibility
[quote]ORIGINAL: dbcisco JR and Spektrum are basically the same company so they have compatibility. Note that Spektrum/JR's DSM, DSM2 and DSMJ are not fully compatible. Thus, even within companies things are not always compatible. [/quote] The compatibility between spektrum and JR is clear from at least a merchandising standpoint. Horizon Hobby distributes both, and the first radios looked like they had just rebranded the JR's. It seems now that JR is leaning towards high-end, but this is only my speculation. So, how could one classify the compatibility so far? Starting with a recent JR radio with DSM2, the notes say it is backwards compatible with JR and Spektrum receivers. This clearly means DSM and DSM2, correct? DSMJ, I am completely ignorant about it, please help me out to clarify!
Posted on: 7/9/2010 7:49 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9854914

RE: 2.4 GHz Compatibility
I was looking at Horizon Hobby's 2010 spring catalog today and on the page for the JR XP9503 radio, it clearly states: "Back compatible with all Spektrum receivers." Also seen here: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Support.aspx?ProdID=JRP2935#quickOverview I believe this implies DSM and DSM 2 for Spektrum.
Posted on: 7/9/2010 3:13 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9854453

RE: Flight Box Fule Pumps ???Problems /Fix???
I have used six shooters before and I am aware of that problem, however I am planning on mounting them to a more robust surface, such as the wall of my trailer, so that they don't dance around when fuelling. This is my mission: to have a robust fuelling system, that allows me to be as worry free as possible, and if murphy comes along, still have enough redundancy to be able to fill up without having to pack everything and go home. (I mostly fly alone, so that is why redundancy is necessary, in other circumstances, I would borrow a friends fuel pump at the field ) I also discovered that regular automotive fuel pumps might seem like the solution to my problem of electric gasoline fuelling. When I get a chance I will go ahead and try setting up an automotive pump. Will post results here :)
Posted on: 7/7/2010 1:39 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9850127

RE: gas can pump for gasoline?
Wow! quick responses! Come to think of it, any expense on these toys can be laughed at! How does one justify to your wife spending $2800 on pieces of wood and fiberglass, assembled with electric innards and exotic glues in such a way that flies, and it's only purpose is for having fun? This hobby is great! However there are some expenses that can be avoided by good thinking. I have personally fashioned a pressure system many times at the f ield with my glow planes, when the hand or electric pump fails, I have had to blow on one end of the hose at the fuel container for 5 minutes to make fuel come out on the connected airplane's tank overflow! I was looking for an electric pump for my trailer which I am about to finish. It is decked out with a battery bank and thought it would be nice to have both glow and gasoline electric fuel pumps. I will also have Dave brown six shooters for both glow and gas as a redundant back up. As I am writing this, I remembered that for boating applications they sell these fuel transfer pumps. I had an automotive fuel pump used on a boat I have, and the corrosion from the sea air would just render it useless quickly, so I removed it and set the tanks for direct filling. If it worked fine for about 6 months in this environment, on a dry environment like a trailer, it would probably be right at home. I would only need to adapt the fuel fitings and add a switch! I did some initial research and came up with these: http://www.amazon.com/Walbro-GSS278-Fuel-Pumps/dp/B000EDCO5M/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4 http://www.amazon.com/BOSCH-68758-Premium-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000BZJGUO/ref=pd_sbs_auto_5
Posted on: 7/7/2010 10:41 AM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9849751

RE: gas can pump for gasoline?
How is your Hahn’s Hanger fuel pump holding up? I am thinking about buying one, but not entirely sure I want to dish out all that money. http://www.aero-works.net/store/detail.aspx?ID=321 Maybe the pressure system seems good enough!
Posted on: 7/6/2010 11:39 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9849088

RE: Flying Streamer flags from R/C Skydivers
I was looking for previous posts I had regarding RC skydiving and stumbled upon these posts. I got MIKE from Paramax in Germany after a 6 month wait, and I was glad I purchased such a fine quality kit. It has flown perfectly with NO dirt dives whatsoever. It is a sturdy and reliable diver. The secret for 100% chute openings is this: 1. It has a metal "gate" where the pack's final flap metal loop is inserted, and where the servo pin passes perpendicularly to secure it firmly, but allowing immediate snag-free release. This is set up at rear of Mike's neck. 2. Rubber bands connected to legs exert opening force on this same flap. 3. The flap contains a 3" piece of ripstop that is furled around the drogue chute. Once the pin is released, the flap flips open, pulls the drogue chute and lets it out into the air stream. 4. The pack fabric allows for snag free operation. 5. The parachute fits tightly inside the bag, and it would seem like it wants to come loose. After my initial march 2005 jumps, I tried installing a flag. I added a second pack which is packed first with the folded flag and a weight. Once packed, the loop and pin is inserted into the gate's FIRST opening. The servo pin is positioned so that it secures this portion ONLY. The chute is packed normally on top of this flag pack, and the second metal loop on the final flap pack is inserted on the SECOND gate. The servo pin is now allowed to travel through the second gate completely to keep everything secure. The servo is basically mated to a knob rather than a switch. Rotating it 50% will make the servo pin travel just enough to release ONLY the parachute. Once the knob is rotated 100%, the pin is entirely removed from both gates, which will release the flag pack and unfurl the flag. I adjusted the knob in such a way that it HAS to be at 50% precisely for the parachute to open, and about 95 to 100% of its rotation to unfurl the flag. This ensures I don't accidentally over-rotate the knob and open the flag AND parachute simultaneously. It works fine every time. The benefits of this are quite obvious: You free fall, rotate the knob 50% to open the parachute ONLY, and once the skydiver and parachute have stabilized, you are free to release the flag at any point during the flight down under open canopy. This allows for a WOW factor of unfurling the flag some moments before final touchdown to please the spectators :) Will upload pictures of those jumps and the mechanisms soon.
Posted on: 7/6/2010 2:31 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9847982

RE: Flight Box Fule Pumps ???Problems /Fix???
I love it how this thread came to be a recent addition, I was today looking for a decent replacement for my fuel pumps. I fly frequently, then will stop for about 6 months, and even though I gave maintenance and repairs to both electric AND hand-crank Hobbico's and the like, these puny pumps fail miserably. I recommend any modeller to stay clear of these. So far, the winners of the lot seem to be: Manual Glow & Gas 1. Dave Brown six shooter Electric Glow 1. Slimline boxer or SL 2000 (Fuel bottle mounted) What about Gasoline? Any GOOD, RELIABLE electric fuel pumps out there?
Posted on: 7/5/2010 8:19 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9846582

RE: Control Horn HELP!
Hey guys, I was looking at this forum for some help because today I spent about 30 minutes trying to line up holes for the three screw plastic control horn. So far, these are the techniques I have read about here. 1. Mark hole drill locations 2. Use a pin to push through and create line-up holes for the screws to travel through (I tried this one today, with limited success) 2a. Alternatively, use a drill press 3. Bevel the tip of the screws to a 45 degree point, so that it is easier to line up and enter the plate on the other side. I was thinking about using the drill press to create the aligned holes on a piece of 1 inch thick x 5 inches long x 2 inches wide wood, then bevel it lengthwise to achieve a desired angle (so that the holes are drilled as perpendicular as possible to the chord line) . Once done, secure the guide with tape to the control surface, and use a regular drill so the holes come out aligned on the other side. The only hard part in this is to properly bevel the wood guide so the set of three holes come out straight through on the other side. Another alternative would be to make a guide with enough beveling so it supports the control surface on the drill press mount, and use the drill press itself to make the three holes. Again, the hard part is sanding the correct angle onto the support guide... Any commercial guides available? Will try it out sometime today, and see how that goes. UPDATE. While looking for some more tools, I found these tap and drill guides at Harry Higley's website. [link=http://www.harryhigley.com/75TapNDrillGuide.htm]http://www.harryhigley.com/75TapNDrillGuide.htm[/link] On that page, scroll down past the 5 step wing bolt drill process, on the new section without numbered steps, the third image shows an aileron being drilled for a wire insertion. He has installed a piece of scrap wood to align the aileron chord with the surface, and although he is drilling parallel to the surface with his tap guide, you can do the same process for a perpendicular drill using a drill press!
Posted on: 7/5/2010 1:40 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9845781

RE: Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
Here in Guatemala I have a friend who developed a service based on our excellent 3g phone networks. All you do is switch the SIM card to your desired phone network. He was showing me the workings the other day and basically the device gets installed in under 2 hours, has enough self-reliance for 24 hours, and transmits location via sms messaging. A software server picks it up, and the web based application shows locations, and adds an additional functionality: You can set geo-boundaries with rules for each vehicle, and the system will alert you via e-mail if a vehicle approached a certain area, or left a certain area. He also offers ignition panic button, ignition switch cut-off, speed limitation (beeps when exceeding a certain speed), and a feature I personally found a bit excessive, but nonetheless interesting: live voice recording. I liked the self-reliance in case a thief manages to cut off power from the battery and say, loads it onto a low-boy or similar. With the size of these, I wouldn´t be surprised to see in some months now, a GPS tracker on board for models in case they get lost :) A sort of Mini ELT for model airplanes that activates with a parameter such as the receiver battery going dead. (So it does not interfere with the RC signals) csatellite, it is funny how quickly we all skimmed through your intended purpose, which was not to start out on the merit of things being stolen or not.! I will leave mine plain white, I had the aluminum sidings installed with the pre-coated paint scheme, the reason being that I fly in locations near a saline environment, so the most corrosion I can prevent, the better. At this point, some of the bolts holding the door swings together, have already slightly corroded because of galvanic action. I forgot to include the other images of the (almost) complete project. :) Smoke detector - a small insurance policy (pending the addition of the fire extinguisher) Wing and fuse securing devices using velcro. The front end (I am still debating adding a work bench in front, thinking about a 4 legged sturdy wood bench, screwed in place from the bottom of the trailer floor.) How useful are these workbenches in trailers? do you use them a lot? Plastic trinket boxes with my "string locking mechanism" and a case logic pocket organizer system. Side door with ladder and extension cord. (Still need to get a 110V power strip installed somewhere, so that when parked, I can charge all the 110V electrical devices. Close up of the velcro and string based plane securing system. Pending: Workbench Extinguisher Electric fuel pumps (gas and glow) Power strip for 110V devices And last but not least: AIRPLANES! Whoever posted previously that a trailer is a hobby in itself was quite right. :)
Posted on: 7/4/2010 2:26 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9844242

RE: Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
Interesting the topic regarding stolen trailers. Where I live, we have some of the highest crime rates in the american continent, so I do plan not to "advertise" inside contents, and even then it might get stolen. Solution: Add a GPS tracking device (I´ve seen commercial ones in the US cost about $99). Here where I live, you can get one for about $80 and yearly service costs $100. Cars insured with such devices here get a 1% deductible in case of theft, and have a 98% recovery rate. I plan to keep it in my house, or at the farm, both places have security :) Progress on my project was slowed down by an accident I was recently involved in and my wife and I have been recovering. Working on the trailer proved to be helpful to distract my mind from such things. However, I am considered 98% done! I removed everything installed on the walls and added spar urethane instead of paint. I like how the wood looks, and after two coats, it is pretty nice. I added the Ethyl Vynil acetate strips, which support the wings or edges softly, and then to the sides of the wood supports, added the rough velcro portion from top to bottom. I created these devices made of poly string and 5" soft velcro material, about 10 inches long, some others 30 inches long, so they can be quickly attached and removed and keep the planes secured. I also added the gear pockets and some strap loops (metal) so i can attach stuff to wherever it is needed in any cargo configuration I can come up with. I tested it with my brother's decommissioned RV-4, and it is so easy to change cargo configurations, and the plane and wings are well secured. [;)]
Posted on: 7/3/2010 8:47 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9843016

RE: servo extension
[quote]ORIGINAL: dakoris73 Ok. So now I am thoroughly confused as to what to do / what not to do. I'm quite the Nooby out here and I have a wing where the servo wires aren't long enough to reach the exit hole, thus requiring the need for extensions. My soldering skills are worthless seeing as I keep burning through the wires somehow, so I don't see that as being an option. If I were to just add servo extensions, and tie them together using the string and CA method, I'm reading that I'm gonna loose this plane due to what exactly????????? quite a bit confused here........... [/quote] Dakoris, You are right, for any newcomer this might sound very confusing! In order of simplicity: Method 1 1. Add a pre-made extension to your servo lead. 2. Use cotton string and a drop of CA so they do not come apart. Enjoy! PROS: Simple, quick, cheap and preferred method. CONS: I have experienced the connectors getting oxidized. (Not a big con for the average flyer) Variations: Using dental floss, heat shrink tubing, or tape. Method 2 - for any model that involves a serious investment $$$ (John's method) 1. Cut servo leads, strip a decent amount of wire. 2. Using a pre-purchased extension, cut to length, so that the servo lead remaining and the extension when soldered intotal, give you the exact length needed. 3. Thread appropriate heat shrink tubing far enough down the wire (about 2 inches) so that soldering heat doesn't shrink it beforehand.Make sure it covers al ength equal to stripped wire plus 1cm on each side of the wire. 3. Using a 40 watt or less iron, heat the wires and add solder directly to the wires (I use a ceramic surface when pressing down). The trick is that as soon as the wires melt the solder being applied to it and it flows to cover them all,you remove the iron immediately. Don't add more, this is enough. Let it cool a bit. 4. Place heat shrink tubing on the joint, and use the heat gun to shrink it. Enjoy! PROS: makes for a solid connection that is durable and resistant to corrosion (soldering makes this possible)Also, simpler to thread into tubes leading to servo location. CONS: time consuming, if it is improperly done, it can actually be worse than the connectors!
Posted on: 7/1/2010 2:37 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9838663

RE: servo extension
Rodney, what do you suggest be done instead of burying an extension connection deep in the wing? Solder (and secure with heat shrink tubing) extra lengths of wire to extend the original servo lead length? This would seem like a plausible solution to the "securing extensions" problem, with these benefits: 1. Less bulky cables, easiee to thread, because the bulky connection has been eliminated. 2. Lighter, marginally less weight is removed. 3. Corrosion, at the joint, no corrosion problems with the male-female plugs. 4. Cost, no need to buy commercial connector holders. And cons too: 1. Need for experience making good, solid solder joints. 2. Time consuming. What do you guys think about tampering with servo leads in this manner? The other method I like a lot is the string and CA mehod. Never had priblems with it.
Posted on: 7/1/2010 2:24 AM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9837778

RE: Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
csatellite, that is a nice load you got there. I hope to begin assembling one of the first ARF's that will go into the trailer, since my other planes are about to bite it. I will have some extra time to assemble these days. :) Happy to be alive! :)
Posted on: 5/14/2010 12:18 PM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9733422

RE: Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
Almost done! I have completed most of the installation of the items, and the trailer is now usable. I will add some varnish instead of paint, I like the wood look, but I need to protect it against fuel spills, etc. All throughout the installation, I have only consumed 20% of the total battery bank capacity in lighting. It works wonderful! Hope to take it for a spin in a couple of weeks.
Posted on: 5/6/2010 11:13 AM by Author "AlphaOrion" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9714637