RE: kmp d3 due november 30th i just ordered one
It does sit a little higher than scale but not much I can do about it for now. I looked into elec. retracts through Ladro ( I think) and it would be about $500.00 for a pair.
Posted on: 8/1/2012 3:32 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176936

RE: kmp d3 due november 30th i just ordered one
As I recall ( long time ago) it seems the distance from the tip of the prop blade pointing straight down to the ground was about 42". Can't swear by it though. Mike
Posted on: 7/31/2012 9:45 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11175938

RE: kmp d3 due november 30th i just ordered one
Bill, sounds good, looking forward to see your pic's. Mike
Posted on: 7/24/2012 5:16 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11167876

RE: kmp d3 due november 30th i just ordered one
The weight you needed sounds about right for this bird. It needs quite a bit from what I've found in a cuople of other threads on RCU. If you haven't found them. here's a link to them. Not too much more info but every little bit helps. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10333006/anchors_10333006/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10333006 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7025866/anchors_7025866/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7025866
Posted on: 6/25/2012 3:13 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11130682

RE: kmp d3 due november 30th i just ordered one
Ditto what Steve said. When you get it balanced please let me know how much weight..if any, you needed in the nose. I've heard it takes a LOT in the nose for proper balance. Thanks Mike
Posted on: 6/24/2012 6:58 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11130383

RE: kmp d3 due november 30th i just ordered one
Robbie, I've been working on mine for quite a while now. Off & on for a little over a year. Work keeps me busy. Anyway I'm also doing mine as an AC-47. Here's a few pic's of mine. I was a flt. engineer on one in Nam 67-68
Posted on: 6/7/2012 6:51 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11110677

RE: kmp d3 due november 30th i just ordered one
I'm on board for this one. Been on another thread here on the C-47 build. Been working on mine for a year and a half. Just busy at work but slowley working on it. Mike
Posted on: 5/3/2012 4:16 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11066538

RE: QUESTIONS ON ESM DC-3
Next: To check, insert the wire from the outside upper hole and down to where the pivot bearing will be. Everything should line up. From the bottom of the wire meas. up 5/8" & 1". At these points cut a flat in the wire 180 degrees opposite from the short bend in the wire. This will allow a proper attachment point for the tiller arms. You will need 1 set of wheel pants mounts (Sig: P/N "SIG SH 726) & 1 Sig H.D. Tiller bar (SIG P/N SIG SH 715). The tiller bar mounts between the 2 wheel pant mounts. The tiller bar needs to be cut to 1-3/4" wide. Sand off the the raised collars on the tiller bar, so it is flat top and bottom. Install the upper wheel pant mount with the set screw facing forward, slide the tiller bar on and install the other wheel pant mount. Tighten the W.P. mounts to the wire, and line up the tiller bar. All 3 should line up. Find 2, 5-56 machine screws. drill all the way through the w.p. mounts and tiller bar, secures in place with 5-56 lock nuts. At the outer ends of the tiller bar drill a 1/16" hole. This is where the pull-pull wire clevises will be attached. Attach them now and leave in place as it will very difficult ot install them later. Now remove this assembly, leaving the clevise's on. Fabricate a piece of thin aluminum to provide a bearing for the upper portion of the music wire. Mine was ¾� x 1-1/2�. Bend it so it wraps around the wire. Locate it as in one of the pics. Now do a temp fit of everything. Temp install the alum. bearing on the wire, proceed to slide the wire into the upper opening of the fin and down so it drops down onto the pivot bearing. If it lines up without binding side it back up a bit and install the tiller bar assembly properly aligned. Drop the wire into the bearing. Everything should line up. Now slide the alum. horizontal stab. tube through the fuse and check to see if it binds with anything. Adjust as necessary. With the upper bend facing back hold the rudder where you want it installed and mark the location of the end of the bent wire on the L.E. of the rudder. Drill a 1/8� hole for it. Make sure it’s the height you want and in-line with the fin. Next locate where you want the 2 Robart Med. Hinge pins for the rudder. Also locate the aluminum bearing you made so it will be below the 2 hinge pins. Cut a slot in the T.E. of the fin to accommodate the bearing. . I had to remove material from both the rudder and fin to get a close fit between the fin & rudder.
Posted on: 2/20/2012 4:55 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10966273

RE: QUESTIONS ON ESM DC-3
Next: Next: Once you know everything lines up, reinstall the wire with aluminum bearing attached, back into the fin. Reattach the tiller bar assembly properly aligned. Now mix up some 30 min epoxy (need the time just in case something doesn’t fit) Use a little WD-40 on the wire only where the aluminum bearing wraps around the wire to keep epoxy from sticking to the wire. Coat the aluminum bearing tabs with epoxy. Install the wire into position sitting in the lower pivot bearing and at the same time slide the aluminum bearing into the slot on T.E. of the fin. From inside the fuse take a flat blade screw drive and spread out the tabs on the aluminum bearing. Let the epoxy cure . Now check to be sure everything moves freely., and the aluminum tube does not interfere with the tiller assembly. Now temp slide the rudder onto the wire. Mark above the aluminum bearing for the 2 hinge pins spaced about 2" apart.These need to be on the vertical portion of the fin and rudder. Drill correct size holes for the hinge pins. Harden these holes and the rudder wire hole with CA. I had to countersink the hinge pin holes to get a close fit. Now again with 30 min epoxy install the rudder to the fin. Note the photos show the aluminum bearing not installed at this point, it should be flipped around for final installation. I'll get back to with the steering installation in a day or so. Need to take some more pics. Mike
Posted on: 2/19/2012 2:17 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10966344

RE: QUESTIONS ON ESM DC-3
Bill, this is a long drawn out series of steps on how I did the rudder and tailwheel steering. First off I did not use the junk hardware that came with the kit. I used a piece of music wire (1/8" dia.). I calculated exactly where I wanted mounted, which determined the length (8-1/2" with bend length of 1 to 1-1/4" ). Next was to enlarge the hole where the original wire would exit on the trailing edge of the vert. stab. There is also a small grove on the T.E. of the stab. That needs to be enlarged to accommodate the dia. of the new wire and keep it vertical and parallel with the T.E. Next, look inside the fuse at the glass work at the T.E. of the stab. Pretty nasty stuff. I had to use a small tapered round file to continue the grove on the inside. That took a while. I just take your time. The object is to get the cutting done to allow the wire to be introduced (long portion) from the outside and down into the inside. It needs be be able to be in place and still allow the small aluminum tube for the horizontal stab. to be installed with out interference. It's a very close fit. The wire should pass behind the tube. It's a trial & fit procees. Once it's fitting properly it also needs to pivot freely. The next thing I did was to establish a pivot point in the bottom of the fuse. Look at the access opening. There is a slight recess all the way around the opening to allow the hatch cover to fit flush. At the back of the opening locate dead center in the recess. Drill a 1/16" pilot hole there. Insert a small push rod wire through the hole. It should line up and slide along up to the incoming hole the T.E. Work the glass inside until it does. Now I needed to find something to use as a pivot bearing. What worked for me was a small (3/16" dia.) stainless steel clevis pin that was approx. 1/2" long. (can be purchased at West Marine)It has a head about 3/8" dia. If everything lines up, enlarge the 1/16" hole to 3/16" ( to match the clevis pin dia.). Now temp. install the clevis pin from the inside so it sticks out through the bottom. You want the head/top of the pin to sit level inside of the fuse, so you may have to remove some material so it does. . Mark the length where it exits and cut so it will sit flush in the recess. After cutting, place it in a drill press vise and using a 1/8" drill bit, and drill press, find dead center of the[u] top[/u] on the clevis and drill down about 1/8" - 3/16" into the top. This is the pivot bearing. Now take the 1/8" music wire and grind a tapered tip at the long end of the wire. This will sit in the recess you just drilled in the clevis pin. More to follow on the next post. Pics show the music wire and the tiller bar which I'll get to.
Posted on: 2/19/2012 12:34 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10966197

RE: QUESTIONS ON ESM DC-3
Bill, have you permanantly installed your rudder yet? Let me know. There are seceral options to hooking up your steering. Also, in an earlier post you mentioned something about using paratroopers. Some thing to consider, this model will finish out fairly tail heavy. I've heard of using up 2-3 lbs of weight to get it balanced. I'm not at that point yet, so I can't confirm this, just a consideration. The added weight of anything in back of the plane will require additional weight forward. Mike
Posted on: 2/14/2012 5:55 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10959241

RE: QUESTIONS ON ESM DC-3
Bill, I didn't do a thing to the rudder. That's the way it came out of the box. Mike
Posted on: 12/27/2011 6:06 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10877774

RE: QUESTIONS ON ESM DC-3
Bill, good to hear from you. I was wondering how things were going. I'm still stuck neutral. I've come out of retirement for a job offer I couldn't refuse, but it keeps me busy 8-10 hrs/day, sometimes 6-1/2 days a week, yuck! So not much time to do much of anything including working on the AC-47. You noted about the rudder. It's not actually pocketed. I used robart pin hinges and just painted it to look like the real thing. I did howver recess them into the fin and rudder deeply. Let me know how it goes. Mike
Posted on: 12/26/2011 3:37 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10877100

Question on a Dyna-Flight S.E. 5-A Kit
I recently picked up a Dyna-Flight kit at a swap meet. Totally complete. My question is.....I believe I read a post some time ago, pointing out an issue with this kit in that there was something wrong with the height of the inner plane struts being too tall? Any info on this most appreciated or a link to the post. Thanks, Mike (ACF) ps. I tried a search on RCU but nothing came up.
Posted on: 12/21/2011 5:26 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10870659

RE: QUESTIONS ON ESM DC-3
Bill, well guess what....I didn't even finish mine yet. Just a bunch of other things came up through the the year and the C-47 just sat on the bench. I got to start installing the twin sync on the engines but just ran out of time and energy on it. I too am planning on starting back on it in the winter. I had a odd problem with the retracts. Got them installed and working great. I increased the size of the air tank and was able to get about 10-12 cycles out of a single air charge, plus it would not loose air for days. Well one day I disconnected the quick disconnects to do something, then reconnected them. Cycled the gear and nothing...tried everything. even removed the gear. It would work great out of the airframe. But once back in it would not. Fanlly discoveder it was one on the brass quick disconnects was squeezing the "O" ring and causing it to stop the air flow. I've since changed over the Serria quick disconnects. Anyway that's my story and I'm sicking to it. Keep me posted or your progess. Mike ps, about removing the decals. Yes in regards to the wet towel. I let it soak for for about 5 minutes per dacal plus I used an exato knife to sldie under the decal edge to help start lifting it off. It's a pain-in-the-ars but it does help remove them.
Posted on: 9/27/2011 4:28 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10736125

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
I've had my hawk for about 3 years now and I'm powering it with a Saito 180. Great power match, not way over powered. Fly mine at about 2/3 throttle. Just keep a bit of power on for your final and chop the power when you are about 3' above the runway and she'll settle right in. I originally had a Saito 125 in it. Flew very scale, but got into trouble on a final appraoch and had to give it full power and a lot of up elev. and it ran out of steam in about 15 feet. To me the Saito 180 is a perfect match for the hawk. Plus I didn't have to add any weight. I've never had any problem with ground handling. As with 90% of tail dragger's you need to feed in a little right rudder as you increase speed to keep her straight. All-in-all it's one of my favorite birds. Once you get this in the air you'll wish you'd done it sooner. ACF
Posted on: 8/8/2011 7:04 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10661869

RE: nose art
I second what KRAM says. Callie graphics are great. She did a supurb job on a set of "SPOOKY" decals for my AC-47. ACF
Posted on: 7/29/2011 4:32 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10645633

RE: GP Waco?
No extra dummy engine but.........it's pretty pricey.....but you can order one from tower....you'll get a spare cowl and might be able to sell it to help recoup the original cost. Just my $.02 ACF http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXACKJ&P=X
Posted on: 7/24/2011 8:28 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10636233

RE: GP Waco?
FB, awsome job of detailing your WACO, looks fantastic. ACF
Posted on: 7/10/2011 2:58 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10615023

RE: Biplane for OS 91 Four Stroke
Although it's not a WWI or Golden Age bipe a Sig Hog Biplane is a good choice. Had one with a .91 and it flew great. ACF
Posted on: 7/9/2011 8:58 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10613346

RE: Green models 120 Tiger Moth
Yes, they are one in the same. It's a shame they are no longer available. I got mine from Pacific Aero Models but they no longer stock them and won't answer e-mails in regard to future availability. Keep looking on RCU buy and sell. They do come up for sale NIB. They fly great. Just my $.02 ACF
Posted on: 7/6/2011 4:40 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10608187

RE: Sport Twin Pics
Im interested in purchasing a Gemini GT-40 but cannot find a working link to the mfg. Do you have a working link or web-site? Thanks ACF
Posted on: 6/21/2011 4:01 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10584717

RE: GP Waco?
FB, I used the 1/4" size. ACF
Posted on: 6/12/2011 5:31 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10569304

RE: GP Waco?
FB, I used Fourmost cockpit coaming from tower. It's a bit tricky to install it. I found warming it up slightly with a heat gun on "low" helped. Here's a link for it. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXG861&P=0 ACF
Posted on: 6/11/2011 7:02 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10568819

RE: GP Waco?
Putting larger wheels on would require enlarging the wheel opening in the wheel pants. It's a tight fit with the stock wheels as it is. ACF
Posted on: 6/8/2011 8:46 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10563152

RE: GP Waco?
I'm running a 19x8 works great. ACF
Posted on: 6/6/2011 2:36 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10560055

RE: GP Waco?
MM, I've got about 12 flights on mine so far. We've been getting a lot of wind here too, except on the days I work.....Gads, I bring it to the field and people just stand there and stare and drool, and say, "that's the nicest bipe I've ever seen". My reply is "You to can have one of these baby's". I agree with LeeDees in that they are back in stock at tower, we'll see some more interest in this one. I have had one minor issue with mine, mostly my fault. I've had 2 pretty hard landings early on and have a hair-line crack down the LE of the R. gear faring. It's about 1-1/4" long and is hard to see unless you really look. Certenly doesn't have any adverse effect. Mike (ACF)
Posted on: 6/2/2011 3:45 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10552299

RE: GP Waco?
Leedees, I agree with Skillet92 that the .91 would fly it, but marginally. I have a GP P-6 Hawk and the manual called for a 91 4 stroke. I originally put a Saito 125 in it and it flew ok. Finally changed out to a Saito 180. I agree it is a bit over powered but it keeps me out of trouble with the extra power. I can't see how a .91 would have flown the Hawk and it weighs more than the WACO. I'm not saying go as big as a 1.80. I think a 1.20 size will do just great. Just MHO. Mike (ACF)
Posted on: 6/2/2011 3:43 AM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10552891

RE: Help with Saito 91.s
Don, Thanks for the link to the post. I'll definatley give the washer trick a try. Thanks again, Mike
Posted on: 5/31/2011 7:17 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10550814

RE: Help with Saito 91.s
Thanks to everyone. I thought the small puller would do the trick. Mike
Posted on: 5/31/2011 4:43 PM by Author "AncientCityFlyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10550550