RE: Sterling 48
At work with Win 2K Pro and MS Internet Explorer I now only see the warning message from AVG. There is nothing behind it. Closing the box leaves me with a blank window. At home I can use Win Xp Pro and IE or Firefox with no problem and using Panda IS 2012 antivirus, [i][b]not[/b][/i], AVG.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 5:51 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225578

RE: Sterling 48
[quote]ORIGINAL: All Day Dan Mr Moderator, tell the computer guys that AVG blocked my access to the home page and classified because of HTML/Framer for the past few days. Dan. RCU2 | 72.87.183.74 | 42514 | 1 | 10:08:15 AM EST | YC [/quote] see http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11219665/tm.htm Looks like its only those people using AVG that are having problems. My work PC uses AVG, but home my computers use Panda IS and don't seem to have an issue with it. Go figure... [8|]
Posted on: 9/9/2012 6:45 AM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222013

Invisible frame
I just saw this today for the first time. My web shortcut attemps to bring me to this page. http://www.rcuniverse.com/ and i see the following error message:
Posted on: 9/6/2012 11:10 AM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "Forum questions or problems"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219665

RE: PT-311 (1:12 Scale) 6-Foot RC Electric Boat Model
[quote]ORIGINAL: guapoman2000 the motor spinning only in one direction and no matter which polarity you connected the motor it still rotated in just one direction.:mad::( My good friends made some measurements to watch for Diodes and nothing. We all even disassembled the motor and still no Diodes. This motor must be some kind of OLD motor with windings assembled in such a manner that the motor would just spin in one direction only. As we attempted to disassemble the motor we practically destroyed the Capacitor but, no big deal since we are using Spectrum Radio gear. We looked and looked and just could not find any evidence of any Diode anywhere. The only place was perhaps the sealed windings and we were NOT able to go into them as for sure the motor would be ruin. Needless to say, we put that motor back together and it ran like new but, again could NOT run in REVERSE!!![/quote] From the pictures you posted and your description I would say that: There are no diodes in the motor. Also I did not see any permanent magnets. I am fairly certain that you have a "Universal Motor". Whitch will run on AC or DC power. Since it is a commutaded AC motor polarity is irrelevant. Universal motors only spin one way. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_motor#Universal_motors
Posted on: 8/29/2012 6:18 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210926

RE: rudders
When in doubt have a look at the real thing. They're plenty of pictures of boats out there. It would help if you said what kind of boat, how fast and so on. You also might want to delete one of the two identical threads you started.
Posted on: 8/17/2012 5:49 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11197332

RE: ESC reverse speed?
I did a quick search on Google and found a reference to those ESC's being limited to 50% power in reverse. I didn't see any hard electrical specs for it though. So I can't confirm this. You can do a quick test. get a low current test lamp something well under one amp rated. No point in blinding yourself. If your motor battery is 7.2 volt then get a 7.2 volt lamp. If you battery is 12 volt then get a 12 volt lamp. Just so the lamp voltage is the same as your motor battery. Connect the lamp to the ESC instead of the motor. Put your throttle in full forward and the lamp should light at full brilliance. Then try full reverse. What you want to see it that the lamp still lights at full brilliance in reverse. If it is only half as bright in reverse then you'll get more reverse performance by just fitting a different ESC. You want a marine ESC, one that goes to 100% power in both directions. Try Action Electronics. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/ Send them an email and they will get back to you with a good recommendation.
Posted on: 8/11/2012 7:07 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189864

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
When you solder copper parts together what is actually happening is the metals mix and form an alloy of Tin, Lead, and Copper. A small amount of the Tin and Lead actually migrate into the copper, as well as some of the copper migrating into the Tin and Lead. The contact point being covered in flux. The flux keeps oxygen away from the area to be soldered. as well as helping to remove any oxide that may already be there. Brass works in a very similar fashion. Because brass is mostly copper with some Zinc in it. The nice thing about copper or brass is that the temperature for the alloy forming process is relatively low. The alloy temperature for aluminum is a lot higher. And this is why for modelling purposes aluminum is NOT solderable with traditional Tin/Lead solder. It will eventually take the solder, but you need very high heat to do it. The naked flame cannot touch the area you're trying to solder, the aluminum will oxidize faster than than it takes for the aluminum to get to soldering temperature. And by then the flux needed to prevent oxidation will be gone. I once soldered a piece of 10 Ga. stranded copper wire to a piece of extruded aluminum angle. Did it to prove a point. I set the aluminum in a jig to hold it where I could heat the bottom of the aluminum with my propane torch. Precleaned the spot where I wanted the solder to take. In that spot I put a few feet of regular 60/40 tin/lead electronic solder. Wound it all up in a small ball. Lit and positioned my torch. After a minute or so the solder melted and formed into a blob that just sat there and smoked. After five minutes or so the aluminum finally got hot enough and the solder flowed over the surface to where it looked wet. Turned off my torch, put a little plumbers flux on the bare end of the wire, and sat it in the solder puddle. The solder flowed up and into the wire. It tool nearly ten minutes for the aluminum to cool down to where the solder solidified. It can be done, but you need to go about it the right way. If you're trying to solder say, brass tubing to aluminum then I would pre "Tin" the aluminum part first then once you have accomplished that you can then add the brass part to it and solder the brass at a much lower temperature. I would recommend instead to just lightly sand the aluminum and brass then use the overnight version of JB-Weld.
Posted on: 8/5/2012 3:39 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11182009

RE: Max Volts for Brushed motors
Those motors are rated at 7.4 volts max. http://www.trinityrc.net/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=72_114 You can go higher in voltage but you're going to shorten the life of the motor. Putting on a smaller prop or one with less pitch will take some of the load off the motor allowing you to run it at a higher voltage. If you go that route then you need to monitor the motor temperature, that will tell you if you're working the motor too hard. In general, if you run it full speed for 1 minute, and can't hold you finger on it for more than 3 seconds then the motor is working too hard. At which point you would reduce voltage or put on a smaller prop. Consider these if you want to go to 3 cell Lipo http://www.rcplanet.com/Traxxas_Titan_Marine_550_Motor_Villain_EX_p/tra1585.htm
Posted on: 8/3/2012 10:14 AM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179708

RE: planking with basswood
What percentage of ammonia do you use, and where are you getting it?
Posted on: 8/2/2012 3:37 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11178945

RE: Help with a Paddle boat rc gear.
1, Top view. 2 - Side view. 3 - 3D View. 4 - Connector, tabs visible. 5 - Cur away view. All you need to do, is push down on the the connector pin's tab. Where indicated in drawing. Just enough to let it slide out of the back of the connector. I use a tiny jewelers screwdriver. Cover the pin with a little bit of tape and you're done. No need to cut the wire. If there comes a time when you want to put the pin back in, you can gently pull the back of the tab back up so it will lock in place when reinserted into the connector. My drawings are not to scale, they're just meant to provide clarity and understanding.
Posted on: 7/29/2012 10:50 AM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11173379

RE: Will nitro eat a hole in a fiberglass hull
How could it eat a hole in the hull of a boat that was never used?
Posted on: 7/20/2012 5:23 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11162966

RE: Atlanta Model Boaters Grand Prix
Nice pictures..
Posted on: 7/15/2012 4:58 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156489

RE: Rescue Boat
Speed isn't really a priority with a rescue boat. Pushing too fast and you'll push the boat being rescued under. Power, long run times, inexpensive batteries, have a look at the Vac-u-Tow 2. You can build it as simple or detailed as you like. http://www.vac-u-boat.com/ If you do a search on rescue boats in RCU you'll find a lot of different ideas besides mine.
Posted on: 7/14/2012 4:05 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154864

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
The secret to good soldering is HEAT, and plenty of it. Doesn't matter if you're soldering tiny little 30ga wires, electrical components, brass tubing, copper water pipes, or copper roof flashing. Having enough heat is important. Sizing the heat source to the job is also important. I use a temperature controlled weller soldering station for most of my electrical soldering needs. I put the smaller tips on it when doing physically smaller electronic items, Medium sizes for wiring, and the big 1/4" tip when I'm working with wiring larger than 12 ga. I had some inexpensive fixed heat soldering irons I used when I was into racing slot cars. Bought the brass motor mounts from the counter at the race track. All the brass rod, tubing, and springwire from the hobby store. Then went out and soldered up the car frames. I always used SN60-40 rosin core solder. Lightly sand the areas that were to be joined and went at it. I have since I was 14 dabbled in electronic hobby projects. A few kits but mostly roll your own stuff. Before I stopped running my RC10 it had Dark sensitive headlights that came on when It was running at night. And a mercury switch for the brake lights. When ever I rapidly slowed down they came on till I stopped. I still have the 75Mhz futaba radio, receiver and ESC. They migrated into my wifes boat. Whatever you're soldering needs to be clean. The flux helps keep the parts clean till they get hot enough for the solder to take hold. Once your soldering iron is at operational temperature, wipe it on a damp sponge made for that purpose, or a dampened cotton rag will do. To clean any dirt off the working surface of the tip, the tinned part. Then add a small amount of solder to the tip. This is to increase the surface contact area of the tip. The liquid solder on the tip will conform to the shape of the work piece and help the heat transfer from the tip to the work. It should only take a few seconds. If it takes longer than that your tip is too small or the tip temperature is too low. The tip is a resivoir of heat, bigger tip has more mass and can store more heat. Tip should be sized to the work piece. Bigger bits, use a bigger tip. A hotter tip will also store more heat then a cooler one. Once you see the initial little blob of solder wet to the part then you can add more till you like the joint. Once you pull the iron away from the joint add a tiny amount of solder to the tip and put the iron back into the holder. The extra solder on the tip protects it from excessive oxidation. The hot solder will easily wipe off next time you want to use it revealing the clean tinned working surface underneath. If you clean it then let it sit idle and hot long enough the tip surface will oxidise and not take solder very well then the tip will need to be reconditioned before you can easily use it again. When you're soldering larger work pieces you may want to add a little plumbers rosin flux to the cleaned joint to help keep it clean while it heats up. Liek when soldering copper water pipes. I made new battery cables for my camaro. The original ones were deteriorated and I knew I could do better. I bought heavier gauge wire and bought new lead top terminal battery terminals from the auto store. Made new brass terminals from 5/8" rod. Once the terminals were made I clamped them in the vice with wood jaws so the vice wouldn't be a heatsink. Inserted the 2 Gauge welding wire. And fired up my propane soldering iron. That's right, I didn't use an open flame. The parts were prefluxed. I wated for the tip to get hot and went at it. The parts took about 30 seconds to get hot enough to take solder. Did the lead terminals the same way. Only I pre tinned the wire, and pre heated it too before I put it in the lead battery terminal. Once it was hot enough it soldered right up. I could control the size of the puddle by the ammount of tip contact I had. Even my wife was impressed by how fast the engine turns over now. Get yourself some extra parts and practice, practice, practice. I've ben soldering stuff in electronic repair and R&D for over 30 years and I still practice. My latest home project, replacing all ten push button switches in my Logitech MX1000 Mouse.
Posted on: 7/11/2012 7:04 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11152000

RE: replacement for 540 motor???
The Speed 500E is 12000 RPM at nominal voltage and no load. Nominal for this motor is listed as 12 Volts. What voltage are you running it at? Also too a new motor won't give peak performance till the brushes wear in a little.
Posted on: 7/11/2012 6:02 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11151942

RE: replacement for 540 motor???
[quote]ORIGINAL: skylane42 Graupner Speed 500E - I could not tell from the ad, is this a brushed motor? Looks good otherwisse. [/quote] Yes its a brushed motor. A good match for the Viper 15, which is made for brushed motors.
Posted on: 7/2/2012 8:12 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140731

RE: replacement for 540 motor???
I had a plastic boat with a resistor speed control. After four years, the speed control fried and I replaced it with another resistor speed control. Then later, we went to an Electronic Speed Control or ESC and what a difference. I now have fully proportional forward and reverse, and longer runtimes from the same 7.2V NiCad battery. With the ESC that's in there now I can go to a 7 cell pack or 8.4V if I want to. You can try searching for a replacement Resistor control but they have largely dissapeared. The other thing to remember about those is that the value of the resistor is factory matched to the specific electrical characteristics of the motor they put in. If you replace the resistor with one that is higher in restance than original then you'll see that nothing much happens till you get near full throttle then your boat takes off at near top speed. From there you an ease off and slow down but it you ease off too much the motor will stall and you have to repeat the process to get going again. If the replacement has less restance then you loose some low speed functionality. An ESC won't care what you got in there for a motor, as long as the ESC can handle the current your motor draws you're all set. Get yourself an ESC and you'll wonder why you didn't convert years ago. Try a google search on: Graupner Speed 500E and: Mtronics Viper 15. These are both sold all over. Have a look at these links to start. http://www.v-eastonline.com/products/Electric-motor-GRAUPNER-SPEED-500-E.html http://www.mtroniks.net/details1.asp/ProductID/591/sid/2/Viper-Marine15-Plug-and-Play.htm
Posted on: 7/2/2012 9:32 AM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11139883

RE: solar powered rc boat ?
Check these out. http://www.instructables.com/id/Remote-Controlled-SOLAR-POWERED-Barge http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmDqklgQvj0 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rSz1t9WAdY have fun.
Posted on: 6/17/2012 5:38 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11121703

RE: solar powered rc boat ?
What solar cells, exactly? You're going to assemble the pannel yourself from individual cells? Any ideas on what the finished size of the pannel will be as far as Lenght, Width?
Posted on: 6/15/2012 6:02 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11119669

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
It looks like it wants to be a Lobster boat.
Posted on: 6/6/2012 4:44 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11109267

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
[quote]ORIGINAL: Rich404 Here are the before pictures plus one of the little cabin being demolished. Are you working on any boats these days? -Rich.[/quote] Right now I'm slowly designing a tug boat That I will scratch build. It will be a freelance design. Envision a wood steamer that has been sold to a private owner, and converted into a live aboard. I'm in the middle of changing the shape of the hull frames... again. Then I'll make another cardboard mockup so I can see the hull shape. MS Paint is a very crude tool but free. Can't do three dimensional drawings in it , so cardboard comes in handy. I want it short and wide. More or less 34" long by 14" wide. Now that warmer weather is here it's time to do body work on my pontiac. So boat building is not a high priority right at the moment. Thank you for your tug pics.
Posted on: 5/24/2012 1:18 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093369

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
[quote]ORIGINAL: Rich404 Speaking of other boats, I made some headway on the tug over the past couple of days. I really got into painting it and it looks totally different from when you saw it...Actually even though I hand painted it, it went on very neat....Also I wanted to weather it and make it look rugged but I just can't bring myself to do it...I don't want an ugly model in my house so I am making it look nice...oh well, I guess i'm a sell-out.. -Rich. [/quote] Go ahead and post s few pics of your tug too.
Posted on: 5/23/2012 4:33 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11092243

RE: Deep V Build
I wish you all the best of luck in your build. i will stay tuned to this station and await further developments, as I am curious to see what you'll come up with.
Posted on: 5/21/2012 6:31 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11089601

RE: Deep V Build
I had thought building my own transmitter, so I could have the exact features I wanted. But would have used a standard 2.4Ghz RF module and receiver. Do you think you can handle the RF section of a transmitter and receiver build?
Posted on: 5/20/2012 3:18 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11087991

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
So in order to do this I have to set up one resistor for each light? That is what I recommend.   Can I rig one resistor just outside the box and have it feed all the lights in that bank? Would this work? Yes, see below. - - - - - - I like one resistor for each lamp because if any one lamp goes out it doesn't affect any of the others. That being said, of course you can put as many lights in parallel as you want and feed them with one resistor. Which lights? The 3V or 6V, both? and how many? Better to install the 6V lamps in pairs. Lamp A & B. Connect one lead of lamp A to plus 12V one lead of lamp B to minus and the remaining lead from A and B connect to each other. No resistor needed. You can do the same with the 3V lamps putting four of them in series. In series strings if any one lamp burns out then they all go dark. Which one died? This is one of the reasons I like one resistor for each lamp. You can also have odd numbers of lamps in your circuit. Lets say for example you put six of the 6V lamps in parallel, and you want to run them off of one resistor. each lamp being 6V and .05amp ( 6V / 0.05Amp = 120 Ohms). the voltage stays the same because you're using all 6V lamps. The currents add because each lamp still needs 0.05amps of current. 0.05 * 6 = 0.3amps. Then you would need a resistor that is: 6V / 0.3A = 20 Ohms, and it would need to be 6V * 0.3 A = 1.8Watts. So now you have 6 Lamps in Parallel running off the one 20 Ohm resistor. Now the lamps resistance combined equals 20 ohms in series with the 20 Ohm resistor. Otherwise known as a voltage divider. When you power the circuit you'll be able to measure 6V across the lamp bank when running from a 12V battery. All is good till one of the lamps burns out. With only five lamps left the resistance of the lamp bank changes from 20 Ohms to 24 Ohms. Changing the voltage divider from 20 Ohm ( 6 lamps ) in series with a 20 Ohm ( resistor ). To one that is 24 Ohms ( 5 lamps ) in series with a 20 Ohm ( resistor ). Measuring across the lamp bank you'll now see a voltage of 6.54V. This will cause the remaining lamps to burn hotter and brighter and live shorter lives. The third reason I like one resistor for each lamp.
Posted on: 5/12/2012 6:36 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078507

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
Resistor values for your 3V and 6V lamps. Use R1 for the 3V lamps and R2 for the 6V lamps. One resistor for each lamp. If the 6V cabin lamps are too bright then use one of the optional resistors R3 for each of the lamps you want dimmer. The part numbers in the picture are from www.newark.com.
Posted on: 5/11/2012 10:20 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11077703

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
Please post detais about the lamps you're using. Volts, amps, watts, and such for each type.
Posted on: 5/9/2012 2:29 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11074822

RE: Where to run electric or gas rc boats??
I usually go to one of two local parks to run my electric boat. Usually not a problem at any public pond or lake. Ask your local hobby shop Or have a look at the map. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/maps.php? If you're running an IC engine then you need to be sure its permitted first.
Posted on: 4/28/2012 8:52 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11060750

RE: Is this boat worth fixing up?
You're asking a very subjective question. Which is all the more difficult to answer with out actually being able to see the boat in question. Reading your post I get the impression that you don't really want to fix it, you want to sell it. Please tell me if I'm wrong. Could you get a couple hundred out of it as is? Maybe, if it came with running hardware, motor, Electronic Speed Control, receiver and transmitter. Then I would have to say most likely. Especially if you test it, and can verify that all the parts work correctly. For just the boat itself, not very likely. Whoever buys it will have quite a project in refurbishment, repair, replace, refinish.
Posted on: 4/26/2012 11:00 AM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11057723

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
Any decently stocked auto parts store and some hardware stores will carry a selection of "Auto Fuses" and matching fuse holders can be had in inline, or block type. The block type can be hold one, two, or more fuses, and are available all independent or with a common terminal. Shop around and you can even find ones with built in LED's to indicate when the fuse has blown.
Posted on: 4/25/2012 6:24 PM by Author "Apismelifera" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11056863