RE: 2.4 - Why Are They Failing?
I really don't understand, I've been flying ppm for 10 years and have never been walked on or had interference of any kind. It just works, no gliches. Why have so many people had problems with 2.4 systems. I've heard stories of the manufactures stating they've know of problems and have fix them. Still, there are problems. I guess until I experience problems I'll stick with what I have. Anyone, please give me more information.... this is really interesting
Posted on: 1/14/2011 6:44 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10264222

RE: Downwind turn Myth
Don, I don't ever what to fly in a full scale aircraft with you as the pilot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted on: 11/24/2010 1:44 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10156887

RE: Downwind turn Myth
As with full scale aircraft, turning downwind does have an effect on the relative airspeed(airflow over the wings) hence "lift". Most crashes occur during the takeoff and climb out phase with an engine failure. The pilot will instinctively attempt a 180 degree turn back to the runway. If your indicated airspeed is down to Vx or Vy(best rate or best angle of climb) and a turn is made back to the runway, relative airspeed will decrease dramatically and loss of lift may occur. If altitude is insufficient to recover from a stall, ground impact is very likely. The main point to remember is that some model aircraft have higher wing loading than full scale airplanes and models are 1/5 "roughly" scale. Therefore a taking off into a 10 mph wind with a model is not the same as taking off into the same wind with a full scale airplane. If your wing loading is low, recovery is easier. Engine failure on takeoff or while maneuvering at low altitudes is best dealt with a straight ahead landing attempt or maneuvering into the wind where relative ground speed is at its lowest. Of course distance to a suitable landing area is one other consideration. The same procedures should be used with models as well has full scale aircraft. ALWAYS PLAN FOR WORST CASE Scenarios, think about your emergency options before engine start. Don't forget, a successful flight always starts with good preflight procedures........... Seems like a lot to remember to just go out and have some fun with our RC planes.... It all depends on how many models you want to add to your learning curve:)
Posted on: 11/24/2010 12:12 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10156700

RE: GMS engines
Thanks guys, that's what I needed to know.
Posted on: 8/20/2010 6:46 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9948271

GMS engines
Are the GMS engines that tower sell any good?
Posted on: 8/20/2010 12:02 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9947402

RE: Fiberglassing F20?
Ordered the wheel wells from Bob Dively models. They range from 2.5" to 6". 2.5" are $4.25 and 6" are around $8.00.
Posted on: 9/29/2005 10:19 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3407425

RE: Fiberglassing F20?
Here's a few more pics. I did the paint with a little help from a friend. My brother in-law did the clear. Don't look too close at the nose gear pic otherwise you'll see a run in the clear. oops. One too many beers between coats.. :) Oh well, it's on the bottom. Also added pics of the mains. It's a fairly tight fit with the nose gear and with that in mind I put the throttle servo up in front of the nose gear to avoid the hassle of routing the push rod all the way to the nose.
Posted on: 9/28/2005 8:45 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3403868

RE: Fiberglassing F20?
OK, here are a few more.
Posted on: 9/27/2005 10:59 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3400967

RE: Fiberglassing F20?
I'll have to take more with better lighting. Give me a day or two.
Posted on: 9/22/2005 10:25 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3384989

RE: Fiberglassing F20?
My F-20 is 8.5 lbs. I really have it stuffed with goodies though. Lights, air retracts, and the 60 size motor. The main contributor to the weight is the paint system I used. As stated before, the main objective on this project was to see how much work it took to get the finish I desired. As far as cost, I would have to guess that paint might run a little higher but not much. I can't remember how many rolls of Monokote it took for the F-18.. two or two and a half for a two color job. Glass and the Z-poxy are cheap. Many times your local body shop will shoot it for next to nothing just by using the base coat or clear that are leftover from a car they just shot. I already have a shoot lined up for a twin I'm just completing. I'll bring everything in ready to hang and they shoot it for me in the down draft booth. That costs me a case of beer. I'll paint the stripes and then they shoot the clear for maybe another case. Hope that answers you questions.
Posted on: 9/20/2005 10:46 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3378100

RE: Fiberglassing F20?
Believe it or not, this was my first glass job. I used this plane for a test bed on glassing. With a very light glass like 0.75 oz, it goes down real nice and you won't believe how it goes around corners. Starting on the bottom first just as in using monokote. The technique I use was to lay the glass down and put the z-poxy on with a good brush(just enough to wet the glass in the center area of the piece. Then use a plastic squeegee to move the resin outward toward the edges. Keep squeegeeing the resin off until you have just the wet glass. If you do this correctly, you'll see no shinny areas of resin, and then it requires very little sanding (just enough sanding to rough up the glass for paint). With the tight weave of the light glass you really don't need to go over it again with resin to fill the weave. The first coat of paint will do that. Just remember to prepare the surface just as you would using monokote. Try it out on a test piece first. Another key to avoiding a mess is to have plenty of paper towels and alcohol to keep things clean as you go and wipe the excess resin off the squeegee. The excess glass hanging over the edges will sand off very easy when it dries. Thinning the z-poxy with alcohol just a little will give you more time to work the resin. Overlap of the glass is very hard to see since this glass is so thin. Here again, it requires very little sanding. In the end what makes the model look really nice is the clear coat. I used a primer, paint, then clear coat. That added some weight. If I were to do it again I would go with an automotive base coat - clear coat. With my F-20, I am using a Super Tigre 60. I moved the firewall back and built up the nose using balsa instead of the fiberglass cowl they supplied. A jett 50 would really work nice without moving the firewall. I just didn't like the look of their cowl. It's a very fast plane and must be landed fast(due to the high wing loading from the extra weight that I added from the paint). It's not as fast as my DC F-18 but just as fun. I have four more DC F-18's to build, I will glass these, and will for sure use a Jett 90 in them. Glassing is easier than Monokote and looks much better. For that matter I will probably never use Monokote again. Glassing is also a little more ding resistant. Try it, it's really worth it!
Posted on: 9/19/2005 10:52 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3374684

RE: Fiberglassing F20?
hope this works, first time on posting pic
Posted on: 9/18/2005 10:45 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3371327

RE: Fiberglassing F20?
I glassed my DC F-20, used .75oz glass and z-poxy finishing resin. worked well, the weight gain comes mostly from the paint. Not much weight gain from the glass at all. Over all the model has an outstanding finish. Wing loading is up. Approach to landing must be done at shallow angles or you will run out of elevator and plant it hard. Important to remember when glassing to take off as much excess resin as possible. I'll send you some pics.
Posted on: 9/18/2005 11:48 AM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3369705

RE: DIRECT CONNECTION F18 Hornet questions
Had a DC F18 w/ ST S90 which turned higher RPM than the G's. Worked great, had flaps and retracts. Flaps really helped on landing. The plane was so fast that one day it couldn't take the stress and the wing decided to depart the airframe. Actually the wing hold down bolts pulled right up through the fuse. But that's OK I've got four more DC F18 kits that are next for the table. You can bet that the area where the wing hold down bolts go through the fuse will be re-enforced with carbon fiber! I'll put 3 ST S90's in three and a Jett 90 in the other(Just can't beat a Jett). Good luck, you'll have a blast!!!
Posted on: 4/19/2005 3:00 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2891994

RE: Bridi Aero Commander
I'm building one right now. I've heard all the discussion on the Birdi kit not wanting to fly. I've added 1/4" to the trailing edge and a 1/4" to the leading edge. With this, I've added more washout to the wingtip area. I'm using Serria design rotating retracts w/ Robart 100 degree nose retract and Irvine 53 2C's. Should be enough power. Probably test it the same as other planes, generate max speed on takeoff before pulling it off the ground and then test flight characteristics with a lot of altitude. Hope it fly’s fast because that's what I'm looking for. Wings were interesting to build: glassed the flaps and ailerons before installing them on the wing. I'll glass the wing after the halves are joined in order to fill the gaps around the nacelles and have everything look good. I ran tubes in the wing before sheeting for leads to the aileron and throttle servos, also the air lines for the retracts. I didn't like the mechanical linkages they recommended. Using Hitec thin wing servos for the ailerons and mini's for the throttles. I made glass hatches for the aileron servo pockets before cutting the sheeting away for the aileron servos. Using the internal linkages for the elevators and rudder, but I'll make a glass hatch for that area in the tail. Decided to try Central Hobbies carbon fiber push rod system for the elevators. That's about it for now, back to getting the retracts installed. RV
Posted on: 2/18/2005 11:03 AM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2672434

RE: BeaverStick! "Busted!"
MORE MORE MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted on: 2/11/2005 9:32 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "RC Car Videos"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2648102

RE: Mini-Z track fotos
Got a z for sale?
Posted on: 2/11/2005 7:42 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2647731

RE: Kyosho Mini Buggy!
fffffffffffffffffffffffff
Posted on: 2/11/2005 7:38 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2647720

RE: Fuel for Irvine 53
Thanks very much for the info guys. Sounds like the best avenue would be to just go with the 5%. Again, I really appreciate the information.
Posted on: 9/10/2004 10:38 AM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2162636

Fuel for Irvine 53
Does anyone have any recommendations for a higher % nitro for this engine. Irvine recommends 5% nitro, how about 15%?
Posted on: 9/9/2004 3:23 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2160569

RE: B-17 Aluminum Overcast Crash
Gee, that kind of hurts--- being is my dad was the design engineer on that bird and I don't think Roy Osling (the project engineer) would appreciate that ether (although I don't know if he's still around). I had spent a week going through the old microfilm drawings with my father and Roy when the Boeing flight Museum was rebuilding a B-17 at the Renton plant in the late eighties-early 90's. Picked up a lot of information just listening to those two old engineers as we crawled through the plane. One of the main topics was metal fatigue on aircraft of this age. Those landing gear retract mechanisms may look good and stout, however considering their age they may need replaced. Organizations who take on the tasks of keeping these birds flying may want to look at some high tech methods to determine if parts need rebuilt or replace with new machined parts. I really don't think it has to do with where the plane was manufactured. But, when you here about a B-17 loosing a wing tip (Blame my dad for that one), he replaced the aluminum wing tip attachment points on the "G" model with magnesium. This was one of the ways they were trying to save weight, don't worry, it won't affect the flight characteristics much. RV
Posted on: 6/13/2004 1:53 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Airplanes - Full Scale"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1898432

SUPERMAN JET RALLY?????
Is the Superman Jet Rally still on?? Does anyone have any info on it?
Posted on: 9/17/2003 11:41 AM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Events, Shows and Fun Fly's - Airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1142856

engine
I put the 90"K" in my Direct Connection f-18 and it flew great @ over 100mph. The 90k is ported for RPM where as the 90G is not. I did use the APC 12X6, a little more top end with that one. It's like flying a dart. The next set of DC f-18's I build will be carbon fiber reinforced and I'm going with the Jett 90 lite. IF you want more speed without spending the money for a Jett. You might want to try the MVVS 71. Good luck
Posted on: 1/24/2003 8:41 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=506245

da Big one
I was bum'n out myself until my last issue of AMA mag. The only reason I joined was to get the mag for the info on all the swap meets and events. "DA BIG ONE" is Saturday Feb. 1 @ the Dupage County fair grounds. SEE YA THERE !
Posted on: 12/14/2002 4:28 PM by Author "Arrowflyer" in the forum "Events, Shows and Fun Fly's - Airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=410966