Wing tote bags
And easy and cheap wing tote, or carrying bag can be made from shipping blankets. Simply go to Harbor Frieght or where ever you can get them pick up a 72x80 blanket for about $11.00. If your wings are greater than 80" get two of them and sew them together. But if 80 or less one will do fine. Simply fold the blanket over in three equal parts, making sure the length is 80' and sew them together. Or you can make two individual bags for wing halves. But is is too simple to make one bag and put both halves in and fold them over. You can use Zippers, Snaps or Velcroto attach them together if you like. But a large needle and thread works great. Wala a very nice tote bag and you did not have to spend a lot of money... Now your wings won't get beat up when you travel to the flying field.
Posted on: 8/31/2012 10:12 AM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212697

RE: Dragstick 60
See my build/fly commennts and that of others on the Drastik in the 'Sport Planes' section under Texas RC Drastik 120..
Posted on: 7/22/2012 7:24 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11165163

RE: Tesax RC Drastik 120
DA. Satio 180's are very thirsty. You have to give them what they want, and that's a lot of fuel. Remember that as the level in the tank drops it's harder for the engine to pull the fuel. So if you start out a little lean then about at half a tank it will starve for fuel get hot and quit. The best way to fix a fuel problem is to install a pump. That is provided that all other problem are corrrected.The perry oscillating pump [works off engine vibration] works very good. I ran one own my 160 for years and it cured my flame outs...
Posted on: 7/12/2012 7:58 AM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11152507

RE: Tesax RC Drastik 120
away.....B.Day
Posted on: 7/12/2012 7:51 AM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11150798

Tesax RC Drastik 120
Texas RC 120 DRASTIK A number of years ago I had a Hangar Nine Ultra Stik. I loved it but lost it during a low altitude maneuver when the engine suddenly quit. I was looking for something like it when I ran across the Pulse 125. Which being a great buy and is approx. the same price as the Drastik. While it has many flaws, all of which can be improved upon, like the Drastik it is a great plane but if you don't modify the weak areas you will be constantly rebuilding it. You cannot make them crash proof but they have to be able to withstand the rigors of an occasional hard landing. The Pulse although being a low wing flies about as good as a Stik. When I discovered the Texas RC Drastik was a clone of the original Ultra Stik I had to have one. I still like the way a Stik flies so I had to add one to my hangar. Out comes my credit card and soon a huge box arrives at my door. Now a word of caution here. This is not to just to point out flaws and weaknesses but just a note to inform others of what I found in assembling and flying mine and my experiences. I wrote a similar letter on the Pulse which can be read on RC Universe. Upon opening the Drastik it looks great. Shelf paper covering is flawless, no shipping damage because of extra care and cost in packaging. So I began to assemble and to see what I had paid for. A friend had purchased a 60 size Drastik and while he was getting the bugs out of it a few weak areas began to emerge. Such as the plywood was very soft, did I say soft, OK, and it separates very easily. Not only that the blind nuts will bore right thru the ply. Also when you tighten up the bolts the blind nuts will be pulled right thru the wood. So I decided to back it up with 1/8th hard ply behind the firewall, in the landing gear area, and under the wing bolt down plate. Next I did not want to rely on just glue to hold the horizontal stab on so I decided to use a Dubro tail wheel assembly and used a very long front screw in it and let in go up into the vert. stab. And then another one further forward up into the vert. Stab. Be sure to add extra glue to all joints you can get to. The hot glue they use is OK but it is used marginally. The two piece wing is great if you have a small vehicle but if you have a larger vehicle that can handle the size glue that sucker together, it makes it more rigid and easier to keep up with all the pieces. All kits and Arf's usually have marginal hardware and this is no exception. Most people who have been building and flying for a while have their own mindset of what kind of hardware and linkages to use. However if you want to use what comes with the plane it will suffice. Next upon installing the engine, an O.S. 160, I discovered it would be extremely nose heavy so all the servo's had to be moved to the rear including making a mount in front of the vert. stab for the rudder servo. Also I had to move the battery as far back as I could so I had to make a pocket for the battery in the fuse area right behind the wing bolts. I did not like the small soft metric wing screws so I substituted 3/16th's Allen head screws for wing bolts. I used std. servo's for the ailerons but used metal gear Futaba's for the elev. I do not like the open nose look typical of Stik's so I built a nose for mine and it really improves the looks plus streamlines the airflow around the plane and adds only a few ozs. Another weak area I almost missed and if I had not caught it the plane would have broken in half. The wing bay area of the fuse right behind the wing former F-2, and right behind the landing gear plate, is very weak. Mine was broken and I had not had any hard landings. So don't know when it happened. Not much material holding the plane together here…Better check this area out really good. Hits: Two piece wing. Flies great. Assembly is easy. Aileron servo's installed inside the wing. Light, for a plane with no Balsa. Mine weights 12 lb.- 8 oz's. Ready to fly with nose and 8 oz's of ballast. O.S. 160-18/6 prop will hover like a big bird. Removable top hatch cover. Extra care and packaging in shipping. Pinned hinges. Precut hinges slots. Misses: Shelf paper covering. Weak landing gear. Cheap plastic wheels. Soft plywood. Token hardware. These are just my experiences with the plane and yours and your requirements may be different. Overall I really like the plane and it will be among my favorite all time planes. Bobby Day 06-21-2012
Posted on: 6/29/2012 7:43 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137214

RE: Camera mounting on RC plane made easy
Watched your U-tube video. Was good for rearward pointing camera flight. But it shows lack of rudder usage. except to steer the plane on the gound. Too many flyers cannot use the left hand....Rudder is like the steering wheel on a car. It points it where you want to go. Better pilots know how to fly using rudder and it makes touch and goes better too...I have spent years training new flyers. Not trying to be negative just an obervation. Try to take this as conctructive critism..
Posted on: 2/11/2012 4:43 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10954676

RE: B&D Retracts
I had B&D retracts on my U.S. 1000 and they were garbage. Lots of side to side slop and did not work all that good anyway. But I really don't think they are availble any longer...Do yourself a favor and get Robarts Mech. or Air...
Posted on: 2/11/2012 4:18 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10954649

RE: *Hangar 9 New Pulse 125*
Pulse 125 Pulse 125 flies very good as I expected. I like the low speed flying characteristics, handles very well. I like doing my maneuvers low and slow. My experiences are not a lot different from those reporting on RC universe. Reading their reports can steer you away from certain inherent weaknesses. Elevator flutter, weak stab and tail area, ETC. Overall finish and quality are very good. Caution. This is not a high speed plane, get something else if this is what you are looking for. There are a lot things that don't measure up. To pay $300.00 and then have to go through the rebuild of the flaws is not good. As long as this plane has been out someone at H.H. is not doing their homework. But then as long as it is selling? To start with the pretty landing gear is the main thing. I had to pitch it and use another one to correct the bad tendencies. It's too flexible, and too low to the ground both allowing for prop strikes, wing tip skids and the wheels are too far back making it tipsy on the ground, even when balanced for flight. I know you could move it fowards and it would be better but it's still just inadequate. Mine tipped up taxiing out for the very first flight destroying a good APC and this was on pavement I don’t think you could ever get off the ground flying off of grass. The tail wheel is junk, the same as Great Planes uses, any hard landing will destroy the rudder, pitch it and get a Dubro tail wheel mount and mount it to the fuselage and be done with it. Glue the tail and fin on don' t depend on the two bolts. The motor mount that comes with is marginal, get a quality mount like G. Planes. The two piece wing is great if you have a small vehicle but if vehicle size is not a problem by all means glue the wings together it makes them stronger and eaiser to handle. Then you don't have to worry about losing the wing tube or leaving it at home. Also this will keep oil from seeping between the wings and making the covering come off. Also glue the tail feathers on. Don't depend on those two tiny little bolts to hold them on. Line them up real good and fix them on there permenantly.If you use a two stroke I suggest laying it on it's side or you might have to wind up having to use a pump, plus this gets the exhaust down under the wing. The cute little wing bolts were the wrong thread pitch would not work, had to pitch them and use 1/4/20 which were better anyhow. This plane is very light so you can add a little weight and make it’s life and your’s a lot more bearable by adding tri-stock to beef up around the firewall and wing area and landing gear pad. Mainly and mostly do not overpower this airplane. A 120/25 is more than enough power. Mine can do verticals and hovering until you are tired of doing it. If you read the reviews those who overpower them are losing them. Kept within it's bounds it is a very good flying airplane. I think I'm more impressed with the OS 120 I have on it than I am the airplane. Think maybe it was first designed for a electric. It's just too light, mine weighs ten pounds ready to fly, 120 jerks it around like there is nothing hooked to it. Over all on a 1-10 scale I will give it a 7 rating. It's just an OK airplane but I like it for what it is.... These are just my experiences with it, yours and your needs may be different. I have been flying for quite a while and by now I kinda have a feel for what it takes to make them live in the real world of flying, taking them out and bringing them back like you took it out.. You cannot make them crash proof but they have to be able to survive a hard landing occasionally... Cheers...
Posted on: 1/18/2012 6:45 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10907707

RE: Hangar 9 Pulse 60 XT VS Pulse 125 XT for the 2nd plane
Pulse 125 Pulse 125 flies very good as I expected. I like the low speed flying characteristics, handles very well. I like doing my maneuvers low and slow. My experiences are not a lot different from those porting on RC universe. Reading their reports can steer you away from certain inherent weaknesses. I.E., Elevator flutter, weak stab and tail area, ETC. Overall finish and quality are very good. Caution. This is not a high speed plane, get something else if this is what you are looking for. There are a lot things that don't measure up. To pay $300.00 and then have to go through the rebuild of the flaws is not good. As long as this plane has been out someone at Hor. Hob. is not doing their homework. But then as long as it is selling? To start with the pretty landing gear is the main thing. I had to pitch it and use another one to correct the bad tendencies. It is too flexible, and too low to the ground both allowing for prop strikes, wing tip skids and the wheels are too far back making it tipsy on the ground, even when balanced for flight. Mine tipped up taxiing out for the very first flight destroying a good APC and this was on pavement I don’t think you could ever get off the ground flying off of grass. The tail wheel is junk, the same as Great Planes uses, any hard landing will destroy the rudder, pitch it and get a Dubro tail wheel mount and mount it to the fuselage and be done with it. Glue the tail and fin on don' t depend on the two bolts. The motor mount that comes with is marginal, get a quality mount like G. Planes. The two piece wing is great if you have a small vehicle but if vehicle size is not a problem by all means glue the wings together it makes it stronger and eaiser to handle. Then you don't have to worry about losing the wing tube or leaving it at home. Also this will keep oil from seeping between the wings and making the covering come off. Also glue the tail feathers on. Don't depend on those two tiny little bolts to hold them on. Line them up real good and fix them on there permenantly. If you use a two stroke I suggest laying it on it's side or you might have to wind up having to use a pump, plus this gets the exhaust down under the wing. The cute little wing bolts were the wrong thread pitch would not work, had to pitch them and use 1/4/20 which were better anyhow. This plane is very light so you can add a little weight and make it’s life and your’s a lot more bearable by adding tri-stock to beef up around the firewall and wing area and landing gear pad. Mainly and mostly do not overpower this airplane. A 120/25 is more than enough power. Mine can do verticals and hovering until you are tired of doing it. If you read the reviews those who overpower them are losing them. Kept within it's bounds it is a very good flying airplane. I am more impressed with the OS 120 I have on it than I am the airplane. Think maybe it was first designed for a electric. It's just too light, mine weighs ten pounds ready to fly, 120 jerks it around like there is nothing hooked to it. Over all on a 1-10 scale I will give it a 7 rating. It's just an OK airplane but I like it for what it is....Would not buy another one though. These are just my experiences with it, yours and your needs may be different. I have been flying for quite a while and I kinda have a feel for what it takes to make them live in the real world of flying, taking them out and bringing them back like you took it out.. You cannot make them crash proof but they have to be able to survive a hard landing occasionally... Cheers...
Posted on: 1/18/2012 6:39 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10907699

OS 160 Prop size.
Need advise from those who know about 160's. I have a Ultra Sport 1000 with 160 pulling a 16x10- APC on the ground it turning about 8,000. I think this is too high for this size engine. Plus when I run it by me at in a flyby in a slight or shallow dive and the motor is unloaded it is making a funny tinny kind of sound sound. I don't know if it's coming from the prop or the engine. Runs really great and performance is great. NO, not too lean making smoke, but I worry about overreving it and damaging the motor. Maybe I could run a bigger prop and get more performance from it. I talked to a friend who is running a 17X12 on his pattern plane. But his plane weighs less than my U.S. does. Mine comes in aobut 12+- . I wanted to try a 17X9 But APC does not make one. So I went wtih the 17X10, too much prop pulled rpm's down to 7,000, motor could not get up to good RPM performance was less. 160 pulled it quite well tho. All that to say this. What is the optium RPM for this engine. I.E. what should I be shooting for? Also I have another plane, C.G. Sukhoi, with O.S. 160 running a 16x10 Airscrew three blade and it's turning about 7800=+. Bobby Day
Posted on: 9/26/2011 9:28 AM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10734773

Repairing cracks in fiberglas cowls.
All planes with fiberglas cowls or bellypans will sometime develop a stress crack. While repairing mine I stumbled upon a method that makes it easy and when finished it looks like a professional job. Nomally when I try to do this I get it all over my hands and it all sticks to my fingers and wind up making a mess. First examine the area to be repaired. Clean it thourghly with some kind of solvent to get the oil off, then sand it good, and clean it again to remove any sanding dust or debris. Then cut a fiberglas strip to the size or shape of the crack or area to be repaired. Next cut a piece of wax paper the size of the fibrglas but cut it just a little bit larger. Next pour out the epoxy on the wax paper, mix it up good then put the fiberglas in the epoxy on the wax paper. Next cut another piece of wax paper the size of the first and put it down on top of the fiberrglas, press them together throughly. Now pull off the top layer of wax paper and lay the fiberglas mat, still stuck to the other piece of wax paper, down on the affected area. Work in the epoxy into the cowl good using your fingers to make sure all the fiberglas area is saturated and covered with epoxy. Now let it set for a few minutes and then try to pull the wax paper off. If it is still stuck to the epoxy and the fiberglas is coming off with it let it set a few more minutes, or you can just leave it on there until it dries, it will come off eventually. When finished it looks like a professional job and WALA no mess on your hands...
Posted on: 8/28/2011 8:06 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691225

RE: CMP YAK 140
I am posting a reply to my original post. Do not try to balance this plane of the wing tube. It will be tail heavy and unflyable. It should be around 145-140 mm from the leading edgeof the wing. Actually speaking from my experience from building and trying to make this a flyable plane-DON'T waste your time and money.....Mine with an OS 160 ready to fly weighed 15:4oz.'s.......A PIG. It is so tail heavy that I had to move the engine so far out in front of the firewall the carb. was sticking out of the cowl plus moving the battery pack and the throttle servo up under the cowl and then I had to add 12ozs of lead to the nose just to get it close enought to the balance point to fly it Plus it has a very NASTY habit of sudden and unexpected stalls when trying to get it back on the ground resulting in bashing itself and winding up on it's nose. And yes I know how to get a plane on the ground. If you are looking at buying this plane, it's now out of stock, thank goodness, Don't... I will give mine to the first person who wants it for a wall hanger.....It's a pretty plane an I really wanted to to work... B. Day
Posted on: 5/26/2011 7:34 AM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10541342

CMP YAK 140
I recently bougth a CMP YAK 140 at an auction. And of course I did not get the operators guide which would have told where the balance point is. I am about ready to put it in the air and am unsure exactly how to balance it. I've read online so many different deminsions that now I am confused. Some say on the wing tube and others say from 135-145 mm. Can anyone who has hands on experience with this aircraft tell me where the proper location is. I am not a 3D flyer but I want a neutral or just slghtly nose heavy balance point.
Posted on: 3/21/2011 6:45 AM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10409845

RE: Ultrasport 1000 on GAS?
I have a U.S. 1000 with a 2300 Super Tiger on glow and it performs great. But my suggestion for a gasser is to convert an OS 160 to gas. I don't think you can find a lighter motor [42ozs.] in it's size range than this. Gas motors are getting better but there is too much give away in the weight and power area. I know the cost of glow has gone up but fuel is not your greatest cost.
Posted on: 3/19/2011 11:29 AM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10409862

RE: DAMAGE SHIPPING/MISSING PARTS ISSUES____Post here
I needed a Cowl for a CMP YAK 140. I looked on your website and there was one listed. So I ordered it and it was shipped right away and when it arrived at my home I opened it was to my suprise it was not a cowl but a canopy. And yes it shows a cowl on the website and no; I do not need a canpoy. My REF. Number is 1172207 2/22/2011. 844314 Shipping no. is1ZX03V030391275806 What do you want me to do with this canopy? Can you order me a cowl? And let me swap this canopy with you? No one answes any of your phone no.s and your E-mail add. does not work either. I have been trying to get in touch with you for a week.
Posted on: 3/7/2011 12:58 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10384823

RE: Ultrasport 60 slow down
In trying to get your Ultra Sport to slow down, the first thing I would say is this is normal. They are so clean they want to keep going and going and...But they will fly safely much slower than you think. Try it, I like to do horizonal figure eights at a low altitude using rudder, as this can improve your skills and allow you to see your aircraft flying slower than normal. I have a Ultra 1000 that I can stall into a three point landing. You just have to give them time to lose their speed. Flaperons probably are just making things worse as far as trying to get it on the gorund, they give more lift and that makes them go futher down the runway before you can get them down... Ultra Sports are the cadillacs of the sky................
Posted on: 10/19/2010 8:57 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10079764

RE: Acceptable propeller size OS 160
I have a Goldberg Sukhoi with a '160.' I run a Master Airscrew 16x10 threeblade. This will give you the needed ground clearance plus the 160 really does not care what you put on it, it will pull it with haste....Bobby Day
Posted on: 2/21/2010 7:09 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9523996

RE: Lets see your ULTRA SPORTS !!!!!!!!!!!
Including a picture of my Ultra Sport 1000. It has a geat running Super Tigre 2300. A bisson muffler and a regulator pump and pulls a APC 16x8 prop. It has Robart mechanical retracts and is covererd in monokote. It is about two or three years old and is the, 'Cadillac of the sky.' I don't beleive there is any other RC plane that flies as good as this thing. I know that is an opinion, but that is mine. I read a lot about the 2300 being a sorry motor, but if it's a Italian made motor to get it to run properly the carb. barrel must be changed to the updated one. Super Tiger part no. SUPG4211 throttle barrel, about $15.00. Change this and get set for a totaly different motor experience...Don't believe all the junk about the big block S.T."s All they need is a new carb. barrel and another chance...
Posted on: 11/26/2009 9:54 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9283628

RE: Super tigre 2300 prop question
barrel and they really are a great motor for the price.............................B.Day
Posted on: 8/27/2008 10:17 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7893544

RE: I want to get the CMP Extra 300s 140....
Reply to godofcable: Reguarding the 31cc gas motor in the CMP 140 size Extra, what I would look at is the weight. Rather the wing loading, mine with a O.S. 160 weights 13.04 lbs. I would guess the 31cc motor would add at least a pound to the overall weight of the airplane. Not considering the fact that the 31cc would probably not make as much power as the 160. The airframe would probably handle it but I dont think you would be pleased with the outcome. I/ E. would have to add weight to the rear to balance it even futher increasing the weight. With the 160 mine balances pefectly with the battries placed over the wing tube.You might search for others who have this plane with gas motors in it. You might consider a Saito 180 instead..... Love mine with 160.
Posted on: 7/16/2008 9:37 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7738986

RE: I want to get the CMP Extra 300s 140....
I
Posted on: 6/17/2008 8:45 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7631046

RE: I want to get the CMP Extra 300s 140....
I have this airplane. also with a O.S. 160 and Bison pitts muffler. Cauton do not try to run this motor without some kind of pump...Just not enough mufler pressure to keep it running. Mine dresses out ready to fly at 13.04 oz's. It does everything well except land. I know this plane was made for flying not landing. But is would be nice if you could take it home like you brought it out. I added 1 1/4 balsa blocks to the tips and recovered them, it made a great improvement in the landing charistics. I think one thing is because it is short it make slow slpeed very tippy. On top of that it wants to bounce on landing and makes you have to run it around and try it again. Unless you get it just right on landing and grease it in you will have your hands full...Oh the springs work very well, and the landing gear pad in the fuse looks really beefy but it is very fragile. And the shelf paper coveing is pitiful. I stripped mine off and recoverid it with ultracote... happy flying. Bobby Day
Posted on: 6/17/2008 8:36 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7631038

RE: 3 Blades
On the Irvine 53 I run a 11-7 Master Airscrew.......... In regards to using three blade props.. you can thow out the formula on going down a size or something or other . What you have to do is experiment..Personally I use three blade props on all my planes and do not see a degrade in performance... Yea I know all the stuff about three blade props and how a motor performs better with a two blade and I'm not deneighing that but three blader just look better.........one problem is that there is not enough sizes so you have to be ready to experement. I use Master Airscrews.. I have a GP 60 size Extra and run a Super Tigre 90 on it and use a 13-8 three blade prop.. what you have to get use to is the motor will not turn up quite as high but will pull as good... then if you want to unload the motor a bit just trim a bit off the back side of the prop to unload the motor to the point where is will perform.. Remember the key is to experment......BD
Posted on: 11/18/2003 9:40 PM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1288502

ST g51 spray adjust
On all Super Tigre's You must make sure that the High speed needle has the o' ring and spring in it.......If not you can run into all kinds of running problems....................B.Day
Posted on: 6/13/2002 2:43 AM by Author "B.Day" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=157497