RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...a very big "Stick Plane" Stick Planes are used to "fly" a manuever or sequence to figure out control inputs, orientation, clarify shape with your caller and ? The photos show (2) examples of stick planes, both silly, although for different reasons. "Official 2007USA F3A Team Stick Plane" was created by world class modeler and artist Raiko Potter. Raiko down-loaded the drawings from the 2007 USA F3A Team website (www.f3a.usa). Raiko used plywood and balsa for construction, covered the tiny model with MONOKOTE, addded a few details with marker and then cleared it with auto urethane!! Yes, it is also very light. The really big stick plane was built by me for the 2007 Toledo show as a prop for the crazy nuts at (F)lying (G)iants. I took the 2007 F3A sequence and the "Official Stick Plane" drawing to Kinko's for some major enlarging. Foam core was used for the entire construction, exterior applied with 3M spray adhesive, a 1/2" dowel and wooden stair trim from Home Depot for the stick, clear tape over all of the edges, trim Monokote canopy and spinner and a coat of craft foam safe clear spray paint to make shine. The little plane was raffled off at the 2007 AMA NATS with the proceeds going to the F3A Team and the "big stick" was never seen after the Toledo show. Build one and improve your flying! Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 11/20/2009 2:56 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9267852

RE: The RC Aerobatic Holy Grail- Found!
The RC Aerobatic Holy Grail-Found! Finally, I have figured out how to share the exclusive interview of the author of "Flight Training Volume II", written by Ben Strasser!!! The attached PDF file is an exclusive interview of Ben Strasser, from the June 2009 "Classic Pattern-Trader" (provided by permission of the CP-T). Rusty Dose Team Futaba Editor- "Classic Pattern-Trader"
Posted on: 11/18/2009 5:06 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263460

RE: Classic Pattern Event in Chicago...2010?
Classic Pattern Event in Chicago...2010? "Classic Flying"...can be best experienced with a properly set-up airplane. The attached article is a contained in the June 2009 issue of the "Classic Pattern-Trader" written by Dave Guerin (copy provided by permission of the CP-T). The article discusses aircraft set-up, flight trimming and is the first of a series of articles available exclusively from the "Classic Pattern-Trader". This is also an experiment to provide access to the "Classic Pattern-Trader"... Rusty Dose Team Futaba Editor- "Classic Pattern-Trader" P.S. No, the September issue is not complete...
Posted on: 11/18/2009 4:54 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263436

RE: Classic Pattern Event in Chicago...2010?
Classic Pattern Event in Chicago...2010? Rules, rules and rules...this is courtesy of the Ballistic Pattern Association (BPA) website which can be visited: http://www.ballisticpattern.com/ Rule #1 Have fun! Rule #2 Rules are used to make sure that participants have fun. Rule #3 If it looks "Classic", you tell me that it is a "classic XYZ from 1971", powered by glow, electric or rubber...it will be eligible. Rule #4 See Rule #1. Certainly, scores will be awarded for each flight...the event is not really about the scores...it is providing an opportunity to see a bunch of cool classic models and a few classic pilots! Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 11/17/2009 2:55 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9260513

RE: Classic Pattern Event in Chicago...2010?
Classic Pattern Event in Chicago...2010! I presented the idea of the club (FVRC) hosting a one day classic pattern event at last Thursdays club meeting and received a very warm response from members as well as 2010 officers. Club members are aware of the current pattern models, seeing mine fly and have asked questions about what models would be eligible. Models that one can fly with "precision" AND are considered to be "Classic Pattern". My unofficial mission is to promote "Flying with Precision", not just pattern flying or classic pattern or IMAC. If one learns to fly with precision, all models become easier to fly in a greater variety of weather conditions. [b]Rusty's List of fine models which are very inexpensive[/b]: [b]Tower Kaos 40 ARF[/b]...very inexpensive, sound design, capable...$109.95. Add an OS 55 AX ($159.95) and you can be just like Jason Shulman at the rececent event in the Southeast. Use the servos in your inventory, take the time to assemble accurately, actually trim the model and you have a winner for less than $300. [b]World Models Intruder 90[/b]...very inexpensive, sound highly modified design, capable...$199.95. Add an OS 61 FX (APC 12 x 9), servos from your inventory or add digitals to improve performance via better resolution. Take the time to assemble, actually trim it and it is an exceptionally good value...for less than $400. The photos show the above. Yes, hand built models may fly better and may look better...for the average modeler, with average skills and average attention spans...they are excellent values. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 11/16/2009 11:20 AM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9257592

RE: Super Curare?
Super Curare... Here is a photo of a kit, from Quality Line. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 11/16/2009 10:53 AM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9257531

RE: Siemens Schuckert D.III 1/6th scale
This is really magnificent! Mr. Flowers, I look forward to checking on your progress...really nifty! Would you consider putting together a calendar of your renderings and construction details...gotta give them as holiday gifts to my modeling pals. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 11/4/2009 12:20 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227701

RE: Looking for Info on kits available
Airplanes available, Darcy, Private collectors also have many of the original kits available. Send me a RCU private message (PM) for more information. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 11/4/2009 12:16 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227693

RE: Deception
Deception... Mr. Kimbro, Do you remember the flight characteristics between your side exhaust powered Deception and the buried pipe RE version? I am at a point in the construction of my model that I could change to the enclosed pipe version. I have a NIB Rossi .61 with mixture control carb/header/pipe from our mutual friend Rusty Fried (Rusty has a few more of these combos). I also have a replacement canopy from the Bridi Escape ($25 from Blue Bird in Nebraska) which would be perfect to replace your original canopy design. Any plans on attending Rusty's contest in February? Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 11/4/2009 12:13 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227686

RE: Setup details on a Modeltech Calypso
Calypso...set-up The following is my opinion...I had a Calypso in the mid-90's with an O.S. .91 4 cycle. I was hoping to replicate the fantastic experience I had with the EZ (Ok Models) Supra Fly 45 which was designed for a .60 2 cycle/.91 4 cycle. It did not. Hanno used the Super Tigre S .61 with a simple header/pipe. The weight of the .61 allows the radio equipment to be installed in the wing compartment vs the tail (which I did for my .91 Calypso). The prop diameter of a 4 cycle is larger than a 2-cycle which makes the throttle transition more challenging in a non-specifically designed 4-stroke model. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 11/2/2009 11:40 AM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222416

RE: Pictures/Text of
[b]Pictures/Text of "Classic Kits"- NO SELLING! [/b] Please post pictures and text of your classic pattern kits... One of the last remaining "Rusty's Most Wanted" kits (maybe even the final) arrived yesterday from California via TF...a Fliteglass Trion! The Ralph White kitted airplane arrived in perfect condition with it's polyester glass fuselage/belly pan/wing tips with firewall installed, foam wings and stabs, a few landing gear blocks and some 6 ounce glass cloth. Wow, the memories of building and painting one of these beauties in high school. I am pleased to say that my long time pal Dave Guerin and I are in the process of making these beauties come to life as only Dave can! He has the Wega/Sunshine Blue Angel in his shop now with a pre-christmas completion date. The YS short stroke powered .61 will have MK retracts and a variation of the gorgeous original scheme. He was the perfect choice for the TOC Akromaster project "Free Adkromaster" posted elsewhere in the classic section. I will frame the Akromasters and Dave will work his magic with the finish, I am very excited! I think there is time for one more project before the Spring and this Trion may very well be the special project. A Super Tigre Blue Head .61 with Macs header and OPS pipe have been waiting for the "Ride". I believe that Alan Dupler was the original designer. [b]NEEDED: The kit came with (1) plan sheet )not full size)...not included in my kit. If anyone has a copy, I am happy to pay for a copy or scan.[/b] Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 11/1/2009 8:12 AM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9218588

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
[b]Classic Tutorial...more tools have been added to the front page![/b] The front page of this thread shows many, many, many photos of tools!!!! Classic building techniques require some kind of tools, mostly hand tools. I began building when I was 8 or 9 and had the following tools: (1) X-acto knife with the same blade for years! (1) piece of 120 grit sand paper remnant various nails to drill holes MonoKote iron MonoKote heat gun (1) X-acto razor saw felt tip pen plastic ruler The drill was later improved with a hand drill that had (3) bits and you pushed, the drill would turn. An actual electric drill was not available until I was in high school (gotta love birthdays!). Jr. high brought Mr. Harriger and Mr. Kreihble of Valley View Jr. High in Omaha, Nebraska. These fantastic teachers assisted with drilling motor mounts, silver soldering and making field boxes using the wood shop tools...all after school. Bud Kilnoski of Bud's Hobby Shop provided hours and hours of patient conversation and was our Monokote "Zen Master". The front page of this thread has photos of the primary tools I have collected over the years to build toy airplanes. They have been sourced at home centers, hobby shops, industrial supply stores. Wood Crafters is a chain of retail stores dedicated to the wood working enthusiast. Last year I picked up a Jet Dust Collector for about $300 and it has been one of the single best additions to the work shop. The ceiling mounted box (about 12" x 30" x 36") sucks dust and debris from sanding and power tool use. I have visitors from time to time and their favorite thing in my shop, that they ALWAYS comment...a wall mounted vaccuum. I found a good one at Home Depot for about $100. The unit has a (15) foot hose and I have it mounted in the center of the shop on a metal support pole. Photos show tools for soldering, drilling/tapping holes, really cool height gauge and honking wire bender for 5/32 " wire. Happy Holloween! Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/31/2009 4:41 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9217649

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
[b]Classic tutorial...building techniques...some new some old![/b] [b]Plasitic boxes-[/b] I hate clutter and am a neat freak (some would say just a freak). I have little plastic boxes for soldering stuff, bits of wire and metal, glass cloth, fuel tubing and accesories, indoor electric, radio electronics, thread cutting and drills and a box for EACH project I have in process and on deck. The boxes fit in the cabinets (2) which hold the work bench. [b]Clear nail polish- [/b]in the attached photo is applied after soldering and heat shrinking a plug. For example, you add a female plug to a multi-cell lipo pack, shrink the heat shrink and then I apply the clear nail polish as an extra insulator over the plug/heat shrink joint. Probably a little over kill or crazy...just hate to burn the car, garage, house down due to a short circuit! Additional photos of adhesives and fillers I have discussed. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/31/2009 4:38 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9217903

RE: Great Planes Sequence F3A
Great Planes Sequence...another perspective Trashley, It sounds like you are having a bad experience. I encourage you to contact Art Pesch of Hobbico regarding your specific issues. My kit was pulled out of a pile/stack and forwarded to me and to my knowledge was not hand picked or sorted in any way. As a review here are my results and equipment choices: My actual model specs: Great Planes Rimfire .32 42-50-800 brushless motor APC 12 x 6 "E" prop Great Planes Silver Series 45 amp speed control Futaba 10C Transmitter Futaba R617FS 2.4 GHZ 7 channel receiver (4) Futaba S3156 Digital Micro High-Speed servos Total weight with a 240 gram True R/C 4S 2100 mah battery is 3 pounds 11 ounces Cowl attachment I believe the detailed instructions (yep, I am a total geek and read the entire insruction booklet prior to assembly) suggested the cowl be taped on for added security. My choice was to use Scotch transparent tape on the sides of the cowl. I also added the an advertising graphic over the tape/cowl area and will cut the seam if I have to service the motor. Photos show the tape/graphic, spinner/cowl clearance "out of the box" and the fron of my modified Great Planes spinner. Power/throttle setting The flight speed of any model is a combination of personal preference, the model's particular capabilities and weather/air density conditions. My interest in the model was to verify that it flew like a "BIG" airplane...slow or in a "non flitty" way...with deliberate and focused attention to a (s l o w) pace. The airplane excells at this (I still find it quite impressive) and the high speed potential is well...easily done. I did not push the throttle to the max and zoom around. To me electric models and their inherently larger diameter propellors provide a different flight envelope with mid throttle cruise and maybe full throttle in a vertical, a really tall vertical. Soldering battery connectors Everyone has their preferred battery plug soldering method...here is mine. The key is to have a big honking soldering iron (Weller #SP40L 40 watt) and some kind of fixture to hold the plug and wire while soldering. The photos shows a few clamps and balsa shims. Don't forget to put the heat shrink tubing on the wire before soldering. As an added insulator, I use clear nail polish over the heat shrink and plug to prevent a short. Probably way too crazy...just would hate to burn the shop/garage or house down!! Weights of batteries ready to fly The final photos show the True R/C 4s 20C 2100 with plug/velcro (about 240 grams) and the Thunder Power 4s 30C 2250 with plug/velcro (about 240 grams). Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/31/2009 4:32 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9218070

Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
[b]Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE![/b] Creating Classic Pattern models can be even more fun and rewarding if one has a few little tricks of the trade. The RCU Classic Pattern Forum may benefit from a specific thread for the "drive by" RCU reader/poster to consume or share information...like..."Ask Jeeves" or the "Shell Answer Man"...hence this thread. Post your build, rig, prep, finish, engine, mechanical, R/C system ideas or questions HERE! Maybe the smart folks at RCU will make this a "Sticky" and keep it up front? Tools, tools and more hand tools. The photos show tools I use to measure, shape, copy, bore and drill. Have an idea and are too lazy or shy, lack the technology to post...give me a call and I will give you some assistance. Rusty Dose Team Futaba Team YS Parts and Service Editor "Classic Pattern-Trader" (312) 580-6838 office Chicago boyd.dose@att.net
Posted on: 10/31/2009 12:19 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9168280

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...Cees and desist! Dearest Cees, May I be so bold as to request you post comments of a constructive and positive nature. It seems this may be simply too much for your giant brain to embrace. You and your smarmy cat might consider a group more worthy of your contribution...I understand that model railroading is dedicated to producing "yesterday" in profound detail. Formerly respectful of your contributions, Rusty Dose Supporter of the tirelessly polite!
Posted on: 10/29/2009 8:07 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9213459

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
[b]Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...perfect practice makes perfect?[/b] [b]How to learn techniques that you have never tried without wrecking a "real" airplane-[/b] Build a minature Classic! I have a Sig Yak 18 framed and ready for finishing. I have decided that using Monokote would be crazy so I have committed to an old school silk/silkspan/Kover-all and dope finish. I decided to build a few other classics to learn about this type of a finish and involve my tiny boys in the process. The Sig Staggerwing is a classic 1/2a control line model that is mostly balsa and a plastic cowl/landing gear doors. The model has been built and I am experimenting with sanding sealer (number of coats), how much prep is really needed and the final finish of the wood versus plastic parts. Fun project requiring a few hours last Saturday morning to get this far. The Herr Engineering Piper Cub was a porject to acquire more attention to stick construction detail, tissue techniques, number of dope coats and dope/thinner reducing levels as well as testing brushes and brush marks. My kid's helped in all facets and it was a rewarding little project completed at the kitchen table with a ceiling tile as a building board and about (10) hours of time. Consider a building a free flight or control line model for a change of pace and learn/hone a new skill. If you want to learn about flight trim...you gotta try AMA free flight and AMA catapult gliders. My boys (4 and 6 at the time) competed in the 2008 AMA NATS in Junior hand launch and catapult glider. They helped me build the models (the rules mandate!) and were very much a part of the continuous trimming. They now attempt to trim anything that flies by bending wings, licking the tips or tearing off parts for a better CG. They built (3) gliders for each event for the NATS and now regularly get 25 - 45 second flights from the school yard. I learned a lot about triming as well...I even had my personal hand launch glider "fly away" last August on a hot summer afternoon at the local school yard. It circled highe and higher and then...it was gone!! Probably one of the most awesome and neatest event in my almost 40 years of modeling. The event was witnessed by the whole family and we still wonder if Dad's glider is still flying! Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/29/2009 10:19 AM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209912

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...building light models that fly! Cees, Your level of arrogance is profound and only pales to your inability to move "let go" of 1960's technology and embrace proven advanced materials of the new millenium, which by my math, is about 35 + years. In the last 35 years the FACTS would reflect that a man has traveled to the moon and back and somehow did it with precious little "piano wire". [b]Creating a cowl out of a block of wood-[/b] The cowl is not removable, balsa wood was chosen to save weight and requires no contribution to the models strength. Your notes are excellent and just not applicable to a high performance pattern model with a non-removable engine cowl. [b]Pushrods/control systems for models that fly-[/b] The system I described has personally worked perfectly for thousands and thousands of precision aerobatic flights in dozens of models. I fly my models hundres and hundreds of flights. Each element is/was chosen for temperature stability, durability, precision, thoughtful about the order of assembly and simplicity. I recognize that the my country of residence has provided access to high quality, durable modeling hardware at a nominal cost. The integration of the steel pin contained in the 30 year old Hayes clevis is brilliant and has significantly retained linkages with little slop from the first to 500th flight. Embracing Technology- The models of yesterday can benefit by integrating modern materials including manufactured items made of nylon, carbon fiber, adhesives, finishing materials... Personally, I am recreating models from yesterday with materials of today and without exception, they fly better. Rusty Dose Team Futaba (disclosed as a courtesy to readers)
Posted on: 10/29/2009 9:37 AM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9211922

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
[b]Building Fundamentals...a tutorial...Rusty's techniques work for Rusty and may not work for you!!![/b] [b]Radio layout planning, servo locations, elevator push rod, push rod exit guides, elevator horns-[/b] My prefercence is to tape the plans of my projects to the work bench and plan the installation. Pencil is used to draw locations of equipment, push rod exits, servo output wheel centers and ? The plan shown is for a Jim Kimbro designed Deception that I am scratch building using Scott Anderson's custom wing/stab cores and my scratch fuse and stuff. Battery technology has advanced rapidly and I am NOT going to tell you what to use rather show what works very well for me. I will use a Thunder Power 1350 mah 7.4 volt battery and a Jaccio fail safe 5.1 volt regulator to power my mostly digital flight pack consisting of (2) 9154 aileron servos, 9151 rudder servo, (?) digital elevator servo and really basic 3001 throttle servo. The Jaccio regulator fails "on". A servo template was drawn on a 3" x 5" note card after several hours of thinking and fiddling about what I was trying to accomplish. [b]YOU MUST PLAN THIS STUFF!!![/b] Goals: 1. Elevator push rod to drive independent elevator halves. 2. After much thought...use Jim's rudder horn mounted like an old school aileron horn, driven by a .070 carbon fiber rod inside a teflon tube. 3. Rudder steering has very little travel due to Dave Brown retract constraints. 4. Gotta look clean and simple. The pushrod was made using a 3/8" balsa stick, planed and rounded by hand. The finished product weighed 23 grams and a pushrod for my Calypso, of the almost identical size and same except was made of a carbon fiber arrow shaft was 28 grams. NOTE: The $8,000, Naruke of Japan, custom F3A models use a plain balsa stick!!! One reasoning is that the balsa stick has the same properties as the balsa airplanes...less trim change due to temperature/moisture. A carbon fiber blade was glued (CA) on to the top of the stick and wire pushrod ends are bent, wrapped with 1/2a control line thread and CA'd. A Central Hobbies Dual axis rod end (3 mm?) is used for the servo end and a titanium 3mm rod end is carefully carved, wrapped with 1/2a string and CA'd. Klett large exit guides are used for the exits and Hayes steel pined clevis's will connect to MK large aluminum control horns. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/28/2009 4:22 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209820

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Building Fundamentals...a tutorial..."Just ASK BERUSTY"! Installing the fuel tank/tank floor/nose retract and retract servo in a Deception- Rusty's Law # 98: The engines in the models with easily removable fuel tanks rarely quit due to split tanks, split fuel lines, leaky stoppers or clunks that fall-off. The engines of models with tanks NOT easily removable ALWAYS quit and generally quit just before enough altitude, airspeed or clearance over the tree at the end of runway is reached. Based on Rusty's Law #98, a removable fuel tank is a must. Planning is the key because it is just not easy to do after you have completed the model make a plan and sleep on it. Review your installation and determine location based on the capabilities of your motor/model and tank selection. Determine location of fuel lines considering how you will fuel the model, pressure for muffler/pipe... Step 1: Carefully assemble the tank of your choice and triple check for proper vent, clunk action and leaks . Wrap nylon packing tape around tank to form a pull handle for removal. Step 2: Go to step #1. Step 3: Using a Sharpie or permanent pen, draw a circle around the vent line, date of assembly as well as an arrow for top and write the word "top". Step 4: Using foam insulation tape (3/8" x 1/2") shown for this installation and apply to tank. Step 5: Add a cross brace limiting the forward movement of the tank. Step 6: Make a tank floor. The Deception used 1/16" aircraft plywood with a few forstner bit created holes. The holes are place to inspect the fuel lines and reduce weight. Weight is best removed (1) gram at a time in 30 places rather than finding a savings of an entire ounce in one place. Step 7: Slide tank in and stare at it...will this work? Step 8: Did you install the tank floor glue rails when you made the fuselage sides? I did and used 1/8" square balsa. Step 9: Install tank and glue floor with thick CA. Go around edges with additional CA and or add triangle stock. This installation will have the retract servo sitting just above the tank floor (below, perspective is everything) so only triangle stock was added in rear. Step 10: Stand back and admire your work. You just spent (2) hours! Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/28/2009 3:51 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209730

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Building techniques..."Just ASK BERUSTY" My number one work bench currently has a Deception in process based on the assistance of Scott Anderson's fine work as discussed in a previous post. Carving blocks of balsa wood for cowls- The Deception uses a balsa block to create the engine cowl. One could use 1/2" sheet and build a box sort a thing and grind and carve or use a big giant block of balsa or laminate (2) blocks as I did. Step 1: Cut-out side view of cowl from the extra set of plans you had copied at FedEx Office (Kinko's)...you did that right? Glue the lightest balsa blocks you can find using old fashioned Elmer's or Titebond wood glue. Step 2: Glue template from above to SQAURE block from above using 3M spray contact adhesive. Cut-out outline using a $150 band saw available at Loew's, Home Depot... and draw center lines all over including thrust, block center, and cut lines for hollowing the block. Step3: Put a 2 1/2" forstner bit in your $125 bench mounted drill press available at Loew's, Home Depot and bore a hole on the bottom of the block on the thrust center line. You can clamp a couple of 1" x 2" pine pieces to hold the block for a added saftey while drilling. You will have to vacuum and raise the drill press work surface to drill deep enough. Put a 1 1/2" forstner bit in the drill press and bore the front of the block connecting to the previously bored hole. Smile, and inspect work. Step 4: Get your carving gouges and knives, Perma grit tools and remove material from the inside of the block. The final work can be done with a couple different sizes of sanding drums in your hand held electric drill. Step 5: Add a little 6 ounce cloth/finishing resin to the areas you got a little thin and test fit to the fuselage AFTER the fuel lines, throttle cable and engine mount are attached. Step 6: Using a counter sink bit, remove material around the fuel line exit holes. Step 7: Glue on cowl...you just spent about (2) hours and have made a huge mess! Remember that all of the hand tools and drill bits are pictured on the first page of this thread. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/28/2009 3:21 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209682

RE: MK Thunderbird Mark II or III or ?
MK THunderbird Mark II, III Roguedog...This model looks very much like the MK Champion (see photo below). I have contacted individuals in Japan regarding the origin of the MK Champion with no additional information. The kit included an advertising flyer showing kits and accessories that included the Champion and the Blue Angel (original not the 1973 WC which was a modified blue Angel) which places the model in the 1971 - 1972 area. The Champion was flown extensively in September by myself and a few pals with very positive over-all results versus the infamous World Models highly modified Intruder which is eligible for SPA. World Models Intruder- Powered by an O.S. .61 FX and stock muffler (.91 4-strokes did not exist in 1972) - Stock 320 cc tank supplied with model - APC 12 x 9 prop best over-all performance with Cool Power 15% fuel - CG at the rear of the suggested range. - All servos are digital and dual aileron servos - Weight unknown MK Champion- Powered by used Enya .61 and stock muffler purchased on Buy-Bay for $55.00 - 320 cc tank purchased from World Models based on size and shape - APC 11 x 7, Rev-Up 11 x 7 1/2, MK Glass Nylon 11 x 7 3/4 tested - Cool Power 15% fuel - CG at recommended location - All servos are digital with ONE aileron servo and estimated differential executed via servo wheel - Weight 6 pounds 11 ounces Flight results...flying the 1979 FAI sequence (see attachement) the MK Champion was our favorite (Dave Guerin and I) based on over-all precision, speed, "presentation" in flight and had MORE rudder authority than the highly modified, hardly still an Intruder (in my opinion) Intruder. Suggestion: Build the model stock, observing weight, execution of control system installation and you will have a fine model! 320 cc tank: The size is just fine. I typically fly (9) minute flights as my tiny brain is strained and both models have fuel for about (10+) minutes. The size is just fine unless a tuned exhaust system is used. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/28/2009 2:58 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209429

RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
Dirty Birdy build by a different craftsman... I posted a few photos of my Dirty Birdy in another thread and by request I am posting here with a few more Dirty Birdy specific details. Yes, I know, the airplane should NOT be a tail-dragger! The project began several years ago before I became totally nutty about classics and my perspective at the time was to have build a simple light model using an O.S. .61 FX and conventional retracting mains. The project now is powered by a Webra Speed and Webra pipe with the same conventional gear. It is ready to cover and paint...I have procrastinated. The model has a foam wing created by a place in Michigan using plans I supplied with the remainder of the model created from the Blue jay kit. The fuse has been covered with 3/4 ounce glass cloth and primed ready to paint. Monokote will be on the wing/stab in the original Joe Bridi scheme. I have not weighed any of the parts and will report the final RTF weights upon completion. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/27/2009 1:03 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9206104

RE: Scoop! Hangar 9 Phoenix 7...ARF!!!
[b]Scoop! Price speculation and a funny (funny to me) story sorta related.[/b] [b]Phoenix 7 price speculation[/b]...price discovery, the amount of money someone will actually pay for something NOW versus the value it could/should sell. I have reviewed the price points of the various offerings by Hangar (the building not the item used for clothing) 9 offerings and have come to the conclusion that the $279.95 to $299.95 like their P-51...is my best GUESS for the ARF. [b]Story about the Horizon tiny RTF electric models...why the boys REALLY wanted to take them home...[/b] My boys, Chip and Tom, have a huge interest in anything that flies, particularly little electric models that are tiny. Like many of you, I fly indoor models...in the winter. A couple of winters ago we were flying at a private hangar. I bring a few models for Dad and a few Air Hog toys like the "hell-opter" (their pronunciation) and sometimes a little twin. See photo of Chip, then (5) flying the "Hell-opter". Dad is flying something and I normally look for Chip and Tom out of the corner of my eye to see what they are doing...it is a hangar...how much trouble could they be getting into? I see out of the corner of my eye...that Chip is holding a transmitter in his hand, following something in the air...and laughing...? I look again and although he is on the other side of the hangar, it is NOT the Air Hog transmitter...CHIP WHAT ARE YOU FLYING?? Chip was flying one of the little Cessna tiny electrics from Horizon that he talked a couple of (12) year old boys into let him fly. He managed to fly it around for a few minutes until it hit the wall (undamaged). This is either a story about the little planes ability to take abuse, is easy to fly, Chip's skills as a communicator, my poor parenting skills or ? Be warned...if you meet Chip or Tom at a flying meet, they WILL ask you to let them fly your airplane...you might assume as many do that well...they are Rusty's boys...they do seem to be very familiar with the stuff...maybe they CAN be trusted with (?). The photo shows Chip at E-Fest on Friday's set-up day a few years ago. He spent the morning watching the Pro's hand launch their models. He then dazzled us all by hand launching his little helicopter...it was pretty cool...he tossed out in front of him at full power and like a boomerang it would come back to him every time in a controlled hover! Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/26/2009 12:38 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9203205

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...between the cracks...Rusty's Deception? Excellent observation...the plan under the photos which have been posted are of my Deception currently on the "primary" building bench. My shop has a number of work areas including the primary bench (butcher block top), a mechanical installation area, a finish prep/Monokote area and the maintenance bench. The Deception is being scratch built using Scott Anderson's (www.rcfoamy.com) fine work. Scott created a very nice set of sheeted wings/stabs, glass canopy and plans. I had Scott set-up the wings for Pro-Line/Southern R/C, Dave Brown Mechanical retracts. I purchased a new set from Dave Brown's website and will use (2) servos to operate. The Deception is typical of the construction techniques used on many classics. I will post photos in a couple of days. My process now includes installing every single nut, bolt, linkage during construction with a significant focus on future maintenance/replacement challenges. The fuselage is just about done...meaning the engine, pushrod, tank, nose gear, nose gear retract, nose gear steering, servo tray, elevator pushrod, rudder/nose gear pushrod, switch, voltage regulator, receiver, battery and tail skid mount are installed. Jim Kimbro's original Deception was powered by a Rossi (Jim was always used Rossi's) and Pro-Line retracts. Mine will use a NIB OPS Ursus .61 (found on RCU for about $130), OPS header/pipe and probably a carved wooden canopy. I used the glass canopy on my Dirty Birdy and am too lazy to order another. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/26/2009 8:52 AM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9202732

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...post your building ideas HERE! The curvy blue ruler...it was purchased as previously posted by a contributor at Woodcraft. Woodcraft is a specialty retail store for the wood working crowd. The chain of retail stores has hand tools, power tools (the best of the best) and has clinics virtually every weekend in their store's class room wood shop. My wife was a good sport last Fall...I signed her up for a "Band saw class", she made a stamp holder in the shape of an eagle head. I use the ruler to measure curved surfaces and create/replicate curved edges. Here are the photos from first post of this thread showing the hand tools I use the most. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/26/2009 8:35 AM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9202704

RE: Scoop! Hangar 9 Phoenix 7...ARF!!!
[b]Scoop! NEW E-Flite electric retracts...use for the Phoenix 7 ARF?[/b] I visited the Chicago Hobby Show over the weekend (10/24 & 10/25) and found a number of items of interest. [b]E-Flite electric retracts[/b]...The photo below shows a set of the new E-Flite .15 - .20 size retracts. The units are powered by the receiver battery and feature a nifty fail-safe...if the gear are hung up or stalled for greater than 2.5 seconds they return to the down position (asuming they stall on the way up). The current draw is minimal even in "full stall" and will be $89.95 for the 3-gear set of the small set. The tr-gear set for .40 - .60 size will about $189.95. I have an original Bridi Tweety Bird NIB, an original K&B .19 NIB that is just screaming for retracts...the E-Flite retracts! [b]4-Site[/b]...no it is not a classic, it is a comment on the reality of global manufacturing. The 4 Site is a teeny tiny "plug and fly" model that is fully 3-D capable (precision is implied) and will be $109.95 with a little battery. For less than $199.95 you will get the charger and the airplane and a few extra goodies...freak'n incredible. The model is goofy cool with a tiny foam lattice to make the fuselage strong. My boys Chip (7) and Tom (5) went with me to the show...Tom wanted to just take the 4-Site and the little Sukhoi home. Futaba users can purchase a Spectrum module for their 8, 10 12 and 14MZ transmitters from Futaba or Spectrum. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/26/2009 8:23 AM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9202689

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE! Making stand-offs...round, light and strong. Sometimes one needs to mount a component..."floating" above the surface for cooling, like a speed control or ?. Menards, Lowe's and Home Depot have "plug drills" in a variety of sizes. I laminate 1/8" lite ply to 3/8" or 1/2" balsa then put the plug cutter in a drill press. Make as many as you need and a few extra for the next project. I then wrap carbon fiber "toe" (can't be the correct spelling) around the outside and add thin CA. The photo shows the stand-offs used in my COMP-ARF Integral to float the Hacker speed control away from the fuselage side to enhance cooling. (3) stand-offs are glued balsa end to fuselage using ZAP green medium CA. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/17/2009 2:13 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9180581

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE! How to make 90 degree/perpendicular edges...FAST! I love to build and prefer to build fast. One corner of my laminated workbench top has a maple guide screwed to the end. The maple piece is above the workbench by about 1/8 of an inch. Place material to be sanded against guide...run sanding block along edge of bench with the material sticking out a little... a few swipes and your have a 90 degree edge! The workbench is constructed from a 1 1/8" x 39 1/2" x 63" laminated wood table top from IKEA (about $120?). The top is mounted on (2) kitchen counter base cabinets that have (2) drawers and doors with (3) shelves. The base cabinets (IKEA) are floating on (8) adjustable legs (IKEA) and connected together using 1" x 3" along the outside edge and another couple of 1" x 3" diagonal cross braces on the cabinet backs. There is a space between the cabinet bases for my stool and industrial cardboard barrel/trash can. The top is screwed from the bottom and top...carefully aligning and leveling. The top is sanded with long sanding blocks, electric sander and (5) or (6) coats of Minwax clear applied. Finally, old school paste wax is hand rubbed to further protect the top. I periodically drag a sanding block across the top to remove CA drops...a little more wax and even another coat of clear if I feel like it. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/17/2009 2:04 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9180567

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE! Edited for detail and accuracy... Making symmetrical wing tips...use center lines. Wing tips provide more than something to bump into taking your model in and out of the house. I add centerlines on anything that needs to be straight including leading and trailing edges while building and sanding. The wing tips are rough cut AFTER a center line has been drawn using a fine line roller ball pen (my favorite). The tips are hollowed using a few x-acto gauges in a big honking red handle, silver handle, long blade, # 11 and black handled x-acto carving knife with curvy blade makes quick work of the rough shape and I gernerally attach the tip with yellow titebond applied to both sides to be glued. 80 grit to cut the shape followed by 180, 220 and 320 if you are crazy. Monokoting wing tips is easiest using a heat gun and NEVER touching an iron to the tip. You will need a buddy to assist. The photo shows a couple of contour gudes...one is red plastic and one is wire or just create a cardboard template. What ever shpe you pick...make the opposite wing tip IDENTICAL! Photo shows Sig Komet wing tip. Rusty Dose Team Futaba
Posted on: 10/17/2009 1:48 PM by Author "BERUSTY" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9179355