RE: Chinese engines and UAV's
[quote]ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man One should figure there are serious discrepancies in a Wiki list provided by the Air Force that forgot to include a small RC engine powered UAV that flew more than 26% of last years' unmanned military flight time. People should go to sites that specialize in the information sought. I would think places like Global Security.org and the AUVSI would be good starting points. From there people could branch off to manufacturer sites. [/quote] Yeah, you are all talk. What could you possibly know about UAVs? [:D] (Pat knows I am kidding...) p.s. we need to go fly again soon. I need to show off my fun new plane with one of Bill's Taurus 52cc engines and one of BCCHI's and TKG's ignitions. Can't beat the quality (in fact, all of my ignitions are now C&H)!
Posted on: 8/29/2011 6:26 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10692644

RE: Chinese engines and UAV's
[quote]ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man Ralph, Remember when I mentioned an all aluminum, no paint, naval vessel a few weeks ago? Here she is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RgfwrXevNU [/quote] That is very impressive indeed. It is supposed to be based at Everett eventually. However, it is a good thing that it is fast. Hot steel has a way of slicing through aluminum like a hot knife through butter (hence the move toward steel superstructure on the new destroyers).
Posted on: 8/29/2011 6:20 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10692634

RE: Hitec A9 Warning-Ignition Kills
Don, Read the link. There is no reason to shoot the messenger.
Posted on: 6/14/2011 7:14 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10574458

RE: RC Aerodyne Extra 330
Good luck. I posted on FG. The guys at RC Aerodyne are very nice and knowledgeable, but are mostly helicopter guys. I believe you can trust them at their word so ask them any questions you need to ask. In the pics the plane looks nice enough.
Posted on: 2/15/2011 12:33 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10338282

RE: RC Aerodyne Extra 330
Good looking plane, and a nice price. The ailerons and elevators look pretty big so it should be fun to fly. RC Aerodyne will be at the Northwest Hobby Expo next week. If I can I will ask about the plane. It seems most of the 50cc planes on the market are significantly more money than that.
Posted on: 2/6/2011 11:28 AM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10316864

RE: Wild Hare Electrics
Zach, what is the kV on that motor? I might pick one up just for fun. Having the bigger diameter prop will help with 3D. *edit* I found the answer, it is 770 rpm/V( http://www.hobbypartz.com/monsterpower-32770kvoutrunner-brushless-motor.html ). One note of caution, they claim a max continuous current of 42A and 55A burst. 42A at 14V is 588 watts. However at that price it is cheap enough to risk burning it up.
Posted on: 1/20/2011 9:14 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10277446

RE: Item for TX
They are outstanding. I have 3 of them.
Posted on: 1/14/2011 9:38 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10264520

RE: FAA ceiling on R/C
Those 'multi-million dollar companies in Champaign, IL' as you call them are extraordinarily small when compared to the UAV companies - or at least their parent companies - ('Boeing'! 'General Dynamics'! 'Northrop'! cough cough). Some of the UAV companies could grease the skids with a 'political contribution' larger than Tower and Horizons combined payrolls. Back in 'the day' when flying a screaming Curare on a piped Rossi we were PROUD of our 'towering' 400' loops where the plane seemed to be SO high. Now any of my IMAC planes will punch through 1500' AGL less than 10 seconds, the turbine jets can easily hit that in <4 seconds, and either plane will climb at the same rate until the fuel runs out. The times have changed and I hope the pigeonholing of our hobby doesn't make it impossible.
Posted on: 12/14/2010 12:06 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10196835

RE: Metal servo arms
The 'Heavy Duty' plastic servo arms work perfectly fine when using a standard clevis, which centers the force in the plane of the servo arm. These will not twist the servo arm. When using a ball joint on the servo, however, the center of force from the pushrod is located a certain distance (5mm - 7mm or so) above the plane of the servo arm. This distance, combined with the linear force, creates a rotational force about the centerline of the servo arm. This will likely cause the arm to fail over time. So, the thick plastic arms work fine if you use a clevis on the servo arm. And aluminum is almost mandatory if using ball joints.
Posted on: 12/13/2010 11:10 AM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10194467

RE: Wild Hare Electrics
I agree on the power and the wing. This plane has plenty of power and plenty of float already. I forgot about the pushrod! I thought about using a standard for the elevators, and set it up the way I used to set up pattern planes. I mount the servo on its side on a mount which places the servo arm on the centerline vertical plane of the fuse (the arm remains in a vertical plane exactly centered between the elevator halves). There is enough room immediately aft of the rudder mount location, and I would run the pushrod down the middle in between the rudder pull-pull threads. After thinking about it for a while, however, I decided against doing it. The elevators have plenty of authority on the mini servos. The only control surface experiencing blowback would be the rudder. On the rudder I will switch to a standard servo,probably a JR 821 - it is simple, cheap, accurate, and will be extremely durable in this use. Thanks for jogging my memory on the pushrod too. I will likely modify it and us it. That way I won't need to replace the cool rudder control horn.
Posted on: 12/8/2010 10:28 AM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10184350

RE: Wild Hare Electrics
[quote]ORIGINAL: rctom [quote] Back to my electric, I realized my stripped rudder servo is a metal gear servo. So much for that! It stripped the single nylon gear. At this point I am thinking of going with a standard servo around the wing tube in a pull-pull configuration. It will add about 2.5 oz, but will be on the CG and will remove some of the weight on the tail. [/quote] I have found that they work better with a standard size servo under the hatch and either a pull-pull rudder setup or with a long pushrod. I'm working up a manual revision that will describe how I suggest to do this, and I'm revising the Power kit. TF [/quote] This is a great idea. I weighed a standard servo vs a mini servo, and honestly I believe the total weight will be very similar. The mini servo is 0.5 oz, while a full size is 1.5. Add in the weight of the servo extensions and it is apparent having three mini servos (plus extensions and pushrods) in the tail vs two standards in the radio bay (with an elevator pushrod and pull-pull thread on rudder) is roughly equivalent. However the standard servos will be significantly more durable. How will you handle the split elevator? Would you use a Y-pushrod, or would you tie the elevator halves together with a U joiner?
Posted on: 12/7/2010 11:00 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10183713

RE: Wild Hare Electrics
Zach, I turned my screw around and mounted it to the landing gear leg with a locknut. It goes, from inside to outside: screw-> gear leg -> wheel pant -> washer -> locknut -> wheel -> locknut or wheel collar.* The far outboard end of the screw ends 3/16" inside the outer edge of the wheel pant, so it still looks great (no holes in the outer wall of the wheel pant) I will find a pic when I get home. Everything stays in place, and the wheel pant it able to rotate if it gets bumped. No problems this way! *edited for clarity
Posted on: 12/7/2010 10:48 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10182398

RE: Wild Hare Electrics
[quote]ORIGINAL: zachfeen Wow that sounds ugly! I'm not sure I could ever sink that much money into a plane (1600), let alone for a repair! [/quote] The problem is we either spend the money for a new fuse, or chuck the wings and tail in the trash can and write off a $2850 (+shipping) plane entirely. It flies extremely well, but this is the last time I will ever consider a composite plane. An all-wood 40% plane like a Wild Hare, Radiowave, Aeroworks, etc model would have survived with barely any damage at all, needing only a small repair on the wing tip and perhaps a few cracked stringers in the fuse. Nothing more than a few hours of work and few dollars worth of covering to fix it entirely. Back to my electric, I realized my stripped rudder servo is a metal gear servo. So much for that! It stripped the single nylon gear. At this point I am thinking of going with a standard servo around the wing tube in a pull-pull configuration. It will add about 2.5 oz, but will be on the CG and will remove some of the weight on the tail. Also after looking closer at my plane, I realized my tree incident cracked the stringers and fuse sides. I fit them back to together and dripped some CA in there, and the plane is now good to go.
Posted on: 12/7/2010 10:45 AM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10182434

RE: Wild Hare Electrics
[quote]ORIGINAL: zachfeen And bterry, I notice in those vids that the field looked awful similar to the kitsap arcs, Saw your location and realized that it must be that field !! I used fly there back when I was in HS. Very nice facility. Looks like Kyle was whipping around your plane pretty darn well [/quote] Zach, I just saw your comment. Yes, it is the Kitsap ARCS field. Kyle love the plane
Posted on: 12/3/2010 5:02 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10174473

RE: Aviation Models 33% Yak Build Thread
Thanks Dennis, I agree this plane is a real sleeper. It flies extremely well, and it is cheaper than most 50cc planes. My throws are somewhat similar to yours. Once I get some more accurate servos on the elevators I will be able to dial it in. Looking at Steve's pictures above I am contemplating installing a smoke system as well! That BME engine is a real runner, and the smoke would be an added benefit. One interesting note for Steve's benefit, I noticed my BME 110 is about the most cold-blooded engine I have ever used. Granted it was ~22* F when I first started teh engine in the morning, but it took a while to get warm before it would even stay running. After it warmed up, however, it was a real screamer and I couldn't force it to quit. I had good success running an old Mejzlik 26x10, with excellent thrust and control, but it would still rip the snot out of the prop at ful throttle. It certainly scared the cattle in the field next door to the flying site! Thanks for the great thread, guys. I am very happy with my plane.
Posted on: 12/2/2010 2:53 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10172375

RE: Aviation Models 33% Yak Build Thread
FYI, these planes are on closeout at Chiefaircraft.com for $400 plus shipping [$459 (west coast) and $489 (east coast)]. Great deal on an excellent plane. I FINALLY (!) got mine in the air last weekend. Multiple life events conspired against me to keep the plane hung in my garage for the last year+, so I must say it was with great satisfaction that my Yak finally took to the air. Initial impressions: The plane flies 'bigger' than a 50cc of course, but still feels 'smaller' and more agile than other 100cc planes. This is somewhat ironic because it looks larger than my dad's QQ Yak, although it has 8" shorter wingspan and weighs ~5# less. I had a bit of a centering issue with my elevator servos (Tower Hobbies version of the Hitec 5955, with JR servos else) so it seemed to hunt in pitch a fair amount. I will correct that next time out. The rudder is HUGE and exceptionally powerful on this plane. I found I could take the plane to a full stop and still easily kick the plane around on its axis for a hammerhead. The plane rolls directly on the centerline. Very few planes roll as nicely as a Yak, and this was no exception. Snaps are easy to control provided you don't bury the snap with too much elevator. The plane is very stable in harrier mode, which means that too much elevator during the snap will just cause the plane to stop flying and transition to post-stall mode. The plane settles in very nicely for landing and is extremely easy to control all the way to touchdown. Mine has a BME 110 Xtreme which is extreme overkill. The engine runs great but is tremendously overpowered. The plane is so draggy, however, that it isn't too fast. It basically climbs at the same rate at which it flies straight and level. If I had to do it again I would put my old ZDZ 80 on the nose. In short, the plane is a keeper! I will try to get some pictures next time out...
Posted on: 12/1/2010 1:23 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10169808

RE: Gas engines on Pattern: DLE?
There is a long thread dedicated to running a Syssa 30cc engine in pattern planes here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9237216/tm.htm The DLE-30 is roughly similar in weight and power to the Syssa engine. Personally I am contemplating swapping out my YS 1.20NC for a piped DLE-20 in a light older pattern plane (~10#), because the cost of fuel for the YS is so high. The other benefits to gas besides price are: 1) gas engines are significantly smoother at idle and through transition than 4-stroke nitro engines, 2) if tuned right gas engines are EXTREMELY reliable in the air even at very low idle settings and are not as prone to deadstick. The reliability issue alone is a biggie for me, as I fly my plane from a small grass strip and if I don't line up the landing just right it is very easy to rip out the retracts. Deadsticks are pretty scary at this field as there is only one shot to hit it. Too slow and it is in the trees somewhere. Too fast and it plows off the runway into the bushes. Either will likely destroy the plane.
Posted on: 10/22/2010 8:05 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10087359

RE: Pattern Plane
Just in case anybody wants to know what these planes look like, here is an archived version of Dick's webpage with the pics of the pattern planes: http://web.archive.org/web/20021213231931/www.concentric.net/~Dhmodels/pattern.html The Zlin is here (this one is identical to my Dad's plane, but his has a YS 1.20 - WAY too much power): http://web.archive.org/web/20030825072026/www.concentric.net/~Dhmodels/zlin.html To my eye, the EMC2 is still one of the best-looking planes ever designed. As I recall, the Elite and Elan designs were essentially design iterations of the Tiporare design. He basically stretched, squished, and tweaked it a bit. In the meantime Dick designed a very scale-looking Dalotel Viking, and had good success with it (Chip Hyde flew it in the Nats around '84). The Runaround was effectively a combination design, blending some of the elements of the Tipo series (fin/rudder, elevator/stab) with the force arrangement, some of the fuse lines (relatively aftward canopy, sloping turtledeck), and taildragger setup from the Dalotel. Good stuff. The Zlin used a wing and stab that was extremely similar to the Runaround, but with a beautiful scale fuse. It is an excellent flyer. The EMC2 was a 2 meter version of the Runaround, with a wider fuse profile. I believe it would be pretty competitive today (at least through Advanced), despite being a 15 year-old design.
Posted on: 10/22/2010 7:45 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10087325

RE: Pattern Plane
A friend purchased the Zlin kit last year and IIRC the price was about the same as what I listed above. I don't know that he has built it yet but the bare fiberglass fuse is a work of art.
Posted on: 10/20/2010 10:33 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10082600

RE: Pattern Plane
Dick lives in Murray, Utah. His son Guy is a musician and I think he lives around the SLC area somewhere (last time I saw him). Rich Lee does fabulous glass work. I have a Runaround in my attic, and my dad still has a 21+ year old Zlin that looks perfect. The Zlin had alll the rivets, panel lines, etc molded in. Beautiful, and LIGHT. Remember, those "kits" are a glass fuse/belly pan/cowl, foam wing, rudder, and stab cores, a firewall and maybe some fuse formers, etc. Supply your own wing sheeting, hardware, etc. They are a very good deal on a high quality kit. FYI those prices were from 3 years ago, so they may have gone up in the mean time.
Posted on: 10/20/2010 4:01 AM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10080474

RE: Pattern Plane
[quote]ORIGINAL: Nintendomaniac_00 Gray Beard Is the Arial still available? I always liked the way it flys too - very smooth... Thanks, NM [/quote] I saw this thread by coincidence. The Arial was designed by Dick Hanson's son I believe, and is a wonderful plane to fly. Most of Dick's old designs are still available from Rich Lee. Here is some info I posted a while back: < The Hanson kits are made by Rich Lee. His contact is richlee _at_ directinet.com , insert the ampersand. Rich is a nice guy and is a talented glass molder. As I recall he has all the original molds. Here are the prices as of last time I checked: Runaround : $275.00 Zlin (fiberglass): $285.00 Elite: $325.00 Excess: $375.00 Ariel: $400.00 EMC: $485.00 >
Posted on: 10/20/2010 12:56 AM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10080335

RE: Herr Little Extra
[quote]ORIGINAL: vpresley Hi Here is a China ARF that is simular. You need to strip the covering and recover, that Chinacote is not that good. I have one in the process of doing same. Vince [/quote] Here is another place to get that same plane, for a little less money. The owner of this company, Alex, is good to deal with, I have purchased many items from him. http://www.valuehobby.com/product_details.php?category_id=54&item_id=459
Posted on: 10/19/2010 10:29 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10080040

RE: Best way to sell 1/2 A stuff?
Dennis, Those diesel MP Jet 061BB's routinely go for ~$80 on eBay, and most of them aren't NIB like yours. Keep that in mind.
Posted on: 10/14/2010 10:57 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10069476

RE: Ebay's DLE 30
[quote]ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me [quote]ORIGINAL: stanordave Why? Get it stateside at a cheaper price w/warranty! And only $4 shipping! Its where I buy mine now. http://www.valuehobby.com/product_details.php?category_id=22&item_id=131 [/quote] Those prices are too good to be true Google, that address, It all smoke and mirrors That just some guy (E-tailer) with a computer in a condo on the West Side I doubt you're going to get very good custemer service on an engine repair coming out of that condo. [/quote] I have purchased things from ValueHobby many, many times. They are fast and friendly, prompt in responding to emails, etc. I even had to return an item (elec motor) that had a problem and they replaced it immediately. I don't know what they would do with a gas motor, but honestly they aren't very hard to fix. Bottom line, Alex at Value Hobby is one of the "good guys" in the business. If you are concerned, just buy the DLE from Valley View, Wild Hare, Tower, Troybuilt, etc...
Posted on: 10/14/2010 2:10 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10068453

RE: Wild Hare Electrics
I tried to fly again today to get some video from my new camera but it was simply too windy. The plane flies GREAT. When Kyle flew mine he commented it would be a great plane for a Red Bull Air Race event. He loved the speed and thought the plane had great tracking ability.
Posted on: 9/12/2010 9:33 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9997767

RE: Need a part from a MAGIC .60 to help frequent flyer make a part
IIRC Big Bill Hempel at Hobby Barn still has all the molds. Perhaps he can be persuaded to mold up some of these classics for us. I would be all over a Super Curare, just like the one I built with my Dad 30years ago.
Posted on: 7/5/2010 3:50 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9846105

RE: Wild Hare Electrics
Here are some videos, I thought I had posted them here already. This plane is a lot of fun to fly! [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rsgt6HJsZ3k[/youtube] [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oN9lWV3M_so[/youtube]
Posted on: 6/7/2010 5:50 AM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9786592

RE: Fuel Consumption
[quote]ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man Look up ''Aerosonde''. She was the prescursor to the Scan Eagle UAV. AAI now owns the rights to the Aerosonde and it's a completely different plane than the one used to cross the Atlantic. BTW, we had a lot of gas left over when she arrived in Ireland. EI is the better option for reliability. [/quote] Yup, I saw that puppy last week on Memorial Day when I took my kids to the Museum of Flight. My wife HATES airplanes but enjoys the museum. I always like seeing that plane because I also have an Enya R120 that must be 23 years old now, still is one of my favorite engines of all time. I am always impressed that it flew a 29 pound plane with an ~860 sq in wing. Here is another pic: http://www.museumofflight.org/aircraft/insitu-areosonde-laima Incidentally it was a special day, being Memorial Day. I had the distinct privilege to meet many WWII veterans, including a man who flew the Corsair in the Pacific and several Tuskeegee Airmen who were present for a book signing event. Men like that, and my own grandfather who carried a bazooka in the 99th Army and fought in the Battle of the Bulge, are true heroes. Most of the group of WWII vets are now gone.
Posted on: 6/6/2010 3:38 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9785128

RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
Nordlocks are preferable, yes. I also dislike the goo, so I just put a small dab on the bolt thread. However if my engine gets hot enough to burn off the Loctite (475 F) then I have other problems to worry about. Gas engines typically seize before that temp, and serious permanent damage will occur in the high 300's.
Posted on: 6/4/2010 9:17 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9781494

RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)
[quote]ORIGINAL: MTK BTerry, Have you used the Permatex on the bolts? How tough are they to remove after some running? Do you toss the gasket and just have the Permatex form it's own? Thanks [/quote] Matt, Normally I use a thin coat of Permatex Ultra Copper on one side of the joint - you don't want so much that it squeezes out all over. Then I fully clean the bolt threads and use
Posted on: 6/4/2010 2:38 PM by Author "BTerry" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9780706