RE: What Is the Smallest Brushless Electric Motor Available?
I'm using this 0.9 oz motor (brushless) http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1420/2712-dsh-12-Outrunner-Brushless-Electric/Detail on my 9 oz flat profile foamy with 32" wingspan. It's surprosing how much power this tiny thing has. Swinging an 8" x 4 E prop. Since it's a 1300 kv motor, the prop can be mounted directly on the motor shaft, no need for gear box.
Posted on: 8/25/2012 8:59 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205500

RE: as3x (or gyro)question
Yes, on the UMX planes, the as3x is built into the receiver. So you would have to buy the receiver/as3x as one piece. Think it's around $80 from Horizon Hobby. I found this out when I was considering upgrading my UMX SBach to include the new as3x. And they also told me the existing servos might not be fast enough to respond to the as3x system, so I should replace them also. Decided to stick with what I already had. Flies fine as long as there is no wind.
Posted on: 7/17/2012 6:17 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159296

RE: Using Ailerons as spoilers
[quote]ORIGINAL: Beachcomber I see the last post was a few months ago, but hopefully this answer will get to you and help. On the question of using DX6i for Flaperon, I'm doing that and works great for using ailerons as down-flaps to slow down my landing speed. Still have control over ailerons for keeping wings level. A slow landing speed really helps because my landing area is small
Posted on: 6/20/2012 5:38 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3DFoamy Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11124922

RE: Mcfoamy as trainer with buddy box, and foam repair
Great post, Dean. I also think that a 3D flat/profile foamy makes an excellant trainer. Dial down the control throws, and it makes flying really easy. Landing one of these for a beginner is a piece of cake. More folks should try it.
Posted on: 3/25/2012 6:21 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11014856

RE: Thought I'd made up my mind, but...
I have the UMX sbach from E-Flight, and even though it's small I would not consider it to be "a nice slow 3D plane" so be careful in your selection. That sucker is quick and squirrely and needs a lot of outdoor space to keep under control. On other planes, if you have a choice of Depron or EPP, both types of foam have advantages. Depron is stiffer, so it's good for larger planes so you won't have a lot of flex. EPP is more forgiving on those hard landings or worse, so it's good for smaller (32" or smaller) where the plane is not heavy enough to cause much flex. Having said that, I recently learned that there are exceptions. Thin Depron (less than 9 mm) is very fragile. Thick EPP (thicker than 9 mm) can be surprisingly stiff and not floppy like a pool noodle. Looks like that Decathlon is 3 mm Depron. So it's going to be very light and floaty (nice slow 3D) but won't tolerate any impact with the ground except wheels down slow landing. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 2/7/2012 12:49 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10948388

RE: Hello anyone here??????????????
Must have been a difficult question! Sometimes it takes a few days for folks to notice and respond. If you're looking for free advice, you need to be patient.
Posted on: 2/7/2012 12:37 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10948369

RE: Need help!
I have no experience with either of those helis, but here's some general info that might help. Two main rotors going in opposite directions is called Co-Axial, and are the easiest heli to fly. The reason is they are more stable, and tend to stay in one place until you give a control to move (once you have it trimmed properly). The trade off for all this nice stability is you give up some control authority, meaning you can't fly fast or against much wind. The next easiest to fly is single rotor fixed pitch with 45 degree flybar, which looks like the single rotor you have pictured. You lose some stability but gain control authority. Meaning it won't just sit and hover in one place while you daydream or something. You have to give it full attention and constantly give small control inputs to hover. This gives you the ability to fly faster, and handle more wind without blowing you backwards. Next up the difficulty scale is single rotor fixed pitch with 90 degree flybar. Even less stable, but more control. Will totally crash if you look away for a moment, but will fly all over the place if you tell it to (if you're good enough). Don't let anyone tell you these are easy to fly. Top of the scale is single rotor collective pitch (CP) with either 90 degree flybar or flybarless. Not less stable than previous heli, but more complicated to set up and repair. Can fly upside down (if you're good enough). Not for beginners at all. Oh, and don't forget to make sure you can buy replacement parts for whatever you choose. Guess you already figured that out. And 2.4 GHz is the best choice for radio frequency.
Posted on: 2/1/2012 4:11 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10938094

RE: Need advice on finding a Foamy
I'd say that 38" would be too large. The two things you need to fly in a small space are light weight and small, in that order. May I suggest a light weight flat profile 3D foamy, no larger than 32" wingspan. They are very light and floaty, which is good for flying in a small space. You'll find you will be doing what is called "harrier" turns, where you fly really slow (nose up tail down apron 45 deg) and then you turn with rudder only. If you speed it up and fly level, you'll run out of room quickly. Of course there is a trade off. Light and floaty can fly really slow, but doesn't like much wind.
Posted on: 1/30/2012 7:21 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10934919

RE: Need help!
If it's radio instead of infrared, that's a good thing. You can fly outside as long as there's no wind. Based on what I see in the picture, I'm pretty sure it's 3 channel. It says that on the front of controller, bottom left. Generally 4 channel Co-Ax don't have a tail rotor at all. Instead have a swashplate under the lower main blades. Try to search for something else, like Eagle II RC helicopter, or something. You'll get a lot of unrelated stuff, but might get lucky. Use Google or Yahoo for search. As a last resort, there are other brands of 3 channel small helis on the market. Might try a part from a different brand to see if it fits, like the tail rotor. Try search for 3 channel heli parts, or something. Tail rotor and motor are probably the same size, for similar size helis. I know it's frustrating. Many times I see threads asking what kind of heli to buy. Large percentage of answers say whatever brand you can get parts for. Guess they know about crashing. Good luck, don't give up.
Posted on: 1/24/2012 12:35 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10925452

RE: Need help!
I feel your pain, Areias. And don't feel bad about being a beginner. As you said, we all started there. My best advice is to search the internet for a web site that sells that brand. And if you don't understand, send them an e-mail describing what you need to replace. Here's some basics that might help you get up to speed. That's a 3 channel Co-Axial heli. Co-Ax means it has 2 main rotors, rotating in opposite directions. And the tail rotor just tilts the heli forward or backward to control flight in those directions. One channel is throttle, another channel is called "yaw" which means point the heli right or left. And third channel is fly forward or backward. I'm not familiar with your brand, but am guessing your controller is probably infrared rather than radio control, which means it does not like sunlight. So don't try to fly outside. You'll lose control and it might fly away. Hope this helps, and welcome to the hobby.
Posted on: 1/23/2012 8:08 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10923072

RE: Spektrum DX6i compatible helicopters
I think what you're asking is: can the Spektrum DX6i talk to other brands of radio, the answer is no. If you buy a brand of heli like E-Sky or Walkera, you will have to replace the receiver with a Spektrum receiver (or Spektrum compatible clone). All the other electronics on the heli (ESC, servo, etc) will work with any radio, as far as I know. Watch out for helis that combine the receiver with other stuff, like ESC, onto the same circuit board. That becomes harder (if not impossible) to change just the radio receiver.
Posted on: 1/15/2012 9:13 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10909869

RE: Belt Driven better than Shaft Driven?
I agree with Barracuda, shaft is slightly more efficient, belt is more forgiving in a crash or minor tail strike. Also, some folks have trouble with their belt creating static, which causes all sorts of strange signal problems. I've heard more problems with the 500 than 450. I rubbed silicone grease onto my 450 belt during construction, and have had no static problems after 300 flights. Probably time for a new belt, but don't see any signs of cracking or fraying. My belt has survived many crashes that would have ruined a shaft drive (sometimes called torque tube).
Posted on: 1/15/2012 9:02 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10909847

RE: Best second heli?
Welcome to the heli side of RC, Bryris. I fly both and don't see that changing anytime soon. Here's the progression from starting with easiest to setup and fly. - Co-Ax 3 channel - Co-Ax 4 channel - Single rotor FP (fixed pitch) with 45 degree flybar (I think 8 to 16" rotor diameter) 4 channel - Single rotor FP with 90 degree flybar 4 channel - Single rotor CP (collective pitch) (all are 90 degree flybar unless you go with flybarless) 6 channel The easier it is to fly, the less control authority you will have outside against the wind. I'm a believer in FP as your next step, but really don't like tail motors. Most of the single rotor FP are in the 8 to 20" rotor diameter and come with a crummy brushed tail motor. If you can find one with a tail belt driven off the main brushless motor, put that on your short list for buying. Second choice would be brushless tail motor. Last time I looked, Walkera had some pretty good looking single rotor FP but I don't have personal experience with them. Oh, and do not try to fly a 450 size (24" rotor diameter) or larger inside your house, unless you have a full sized basketball gym as a family room! It will not end well.
Posted on: 1/7/2012 10:38 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10896419

RE: Confused about first 3D to buy
Hi sixinarow, I love foamies and am sure you will also. The cool thing about 3D foamies is you can set them up tame (small control travel) and fly them like a trainer. Then as you progress, increase the control throw. One general rule of thumb is that for a given wing span and wing area, the lighter the plane the better it is for 3D, because it's light and "floaty". The profile/flat foamies are the best at this. Light balsa is next best. Foamies are more forgiving in a mild crash, and easier to repair if crash results in damage. Oh, and light and floaty also means doesn't like much wind, so there is a compromise. EPP foam is generally more flexible, and therefore more forgiving than the more stiff foam like EPO (Elaptor) or Depron. But the EPP foam TechOne is using is surprisingly firm and not too flexible. Just got the 39" Sukhoi for Christmas, so time will tell if it's forgiving in a crash. As for a plane that handles 2.4 gHz receiver, any aircraft can fly with that so no limitation there. Just be aware that each brand of receiver can not talk to another brand of transmitter. The manufacturers have got us locked-in. The 30 to 36" size is fine for outdoors, as long as wind is not too bad, less than 8 to 10 mph. Don't go smaller unless you have no wind at all. Type of plane does make a difference as to wind tolerance, but there is no substitution for size.
Posted on: 12/8/2011 5:33 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10850674

RE: Is 10A too much power?
Just to say it another way, a speed controller rated for 10 amps, can handle any motor current [u]up to[/u] 10 amps. It's normal and recommended to have slightly more "capacity" in your ESC than you expect to use. Actual amps is determined by the load on your motor, which is controlled by your left thumb (mode 2), and your prop size. So extra capacity in your ESC and extra capacity in your battery won't hurt you, except for adding extra weight (as said above).
Posted on: 11/29/2011 12:33 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10834837

RE: Gyros for 3D flying?
Report on Test Session #2, gyros on elev and rudder. After a little glue, the flight test dummy was ready for more "research". I adjusted the limits on the gyros, which increases the max throw of the control surfaces, and fiddled with the gyro gain a little. In "Rate" mode using more gain than yesterday, actually flew pretty nice and I'm fairly sure it helped me hover more like a large plane. No bad habits, so that means gain is not too high. In "Heading Hold" during slow flight and hover, here's what I learned. Theoretically, Heading Hold (HH) will keep the tail where-ever you put it, similar to helicopters. So before you can expect it to hover hands off, first you have to position the plane in exactly perfectly vertical. And when I made small corrections with control sticks when in HH, the control throws moved more than I needed; maybe too much gain. Gyro seems to do away with my expo when in HH. I managed to nail perfect vertical only once, and the plane just sat there like magic, all I had to do was control throttle and aileron. Sweet, but I didn't leave it like that too long, cause I think I was holding my breath and was about to black out. lol Then I switched back to Rate mode and guided her in for a safe landing. Warning to beginners: do not try horizontal flight with the gyro in Heading Hold. You'll try to make a nice banked carving turn and gyro will fight you. Guess how I know that.
Posted on: 8/5/2011 9:33 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10656723

RE: Gyros for 3D flying?
Ok, I have to admit I'm attracted to the challenge of making it work, just for something fun/different to do. Been flying helis for a few years, and got into 3D foamy planes about a year ago. So, sorta as a dare, I installed two gyros (tail and elevator) on my 38" Yak flat/profile foamy, to see what would happen. We call this plane the crash test dummy, cause it has broken completely in half 3 times and lost it's nose 4 times. Probably a quarter pound of glue on this thing, along with a few wooden and carbon splints. Figured I could fly in "Rate" mode with low gain, and switch to "HH" mode for hovering. First test flight today, and I definitely need to make some adjustments. Flew ok in "Rate" but when trying to hover in "HH" wouldn't stay put like I hoped (could have been too windy). My initial impression is that the throw and gain are not going to be as easy to dial-in as a tail gyro in a heli. Still it's a challenge, and I want to play with it further. Oh, did I mention that I ended up stuck in the top of an oak tree today? Took about an hour, but with extension ladder, and three polls taped together managed to get it down. Crash Test Dummy lives to fly another day. Then we flew our normal planes and helis, with no tricks up our sleeves.
Posted on: 8/4/2011 4:29 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10655661

RE: Gyro calibrated Katana for Hover
I'd say theroetically the Co-Pilot could work. But good luck initiallizing it perfectly level. And on a plane, the senser needs to see in all directions, so mounting location might be difficult. I had an old Co-Pilot 2 channel on my FP heli awhile ago. It was a pain to initialize it each flight session with the heli prefectly level, not sure if the newer version is easier. And don't remember if it had a feature where I could turn it off from the transmitter, you'd definately need that. Give it a try, and let us know how it does?
Posted on: 7/16/2011 5:16 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10623583

RE: Gyros for 3D flying?
[quote]ORIGINAL: BarracudaHockey I've tried it, I wasn't impressed, and as a chopper dude I have plenty of good gyros laying around and am well versed in setting them up. ... [/quote] You make a great point Barracuda, about knowing how to properly set up a gyro. I've been reading a couple of older forum threads about using gyros in planes (mostly larger RC planes) and seems to me that many complaints might be caused by incorrect setup. Like one guy complained about drifting when in heading hold, and also indicated using rudder trim in his transmitter. I'm pretty sure most if not all gyros do not like [u]any[/u] trim in the rudder channel, when in heading hold. This guy was trashing the whole concept of using gyro on a plane because of his problems. Live and learn. The whole argument of gyro on a plane sounds similar to the argument of gyro on a heli a few years ago (ok maybe more than a few years). And now all modern day helis have gyro on the tail as standard. Look forward to seeing how this gyro-plane thing turns out.
Posted on: 7/15/2011 8:20 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10622361

RE: Gyros for 3D flying?
I've been wondering the same thing about gyro for 3D planes. Haven't found a good answer yet, but can tell you that it seems to be a secret club. Nobody will admit to using gyro, because folks will make fun of them. But in secret, who knows how many gyros are hiding under the canopy. Just saw an ad from hobby lobby taking advance orders on a new foam jet that comes [u]standard[/u] with gyro for rudder, for use in 3D hovering. So there, the cat is out of the bag.
Posted on: 7/12/2011 6:06 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10618541

RE: need 3d parkflyer
Rather than re-type the discription and impressions of my new 32" Foamy, here's a link to the thread. I wouldn't go any smaller than 32" wing span for outdoor flying, unless you're in a small area protected by trees or large bushes. Hope it helps. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1457104
Posted on: 7/10/2011 5:21 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10614376

RE: mini heli?
I think the term "mini helicopter" refers to 400 and 450 size electric helicopters, which are in the range of 24" to 26" long. I doubt you'll find a RTF in that size for under $100. Maybe what you're looking for is "micro" heli. Size range 200 to 300 electric, which are aprox 14" to 20" long. Then there is smaller than that, I think called "ultra micro". Size 6" to 12". Hope this helps.
Posted on: 6/29/2011 6:53 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10599077

RE: Which electric helicopters to buy??
Welcome to the hobby. You're almost as old as I am. By the looks of your questions, you've already done a lot of homework, so you're well on your way to getting hooked. I'd suggest your first heli should be a 4-channel Co-Ax, which means 2 rotors spinning in opposite directions. Those are the most stable and easiest to learn with least frustration. Yes, learning to fly helis can be frustrating, but rewarding and fun. If you have a local hobby shop, see what Co-Ax they have, and what parts they have. Smaller Co-Ax have more trouble with outside wind than larger ones. I started with a 12" long Co-Ax and had to use full forward just to stay in place with light wind trying to push me backward. But it did teach me basic controls and orientation, usually when wind was not blowing. After you conquer the Co-Ax, and can fly it around the yard without crashing, your ready for a 4-channel Single Rotor FP (Fixed Pitch). Those are harder to handle, so be prepared for a steep learning curve. Take it slow and you'll get the hang of it. You don't need 6-channel CP (Collective Pitch) until you want to do flips and upside down stuff. If you don't have a local hobby shop, here are a few web sites I use and like. Heli Direct in Mass. http://www.helidirect.com/index.php?osCsid=7f12c328ff1eabe78bee166976cb7b7f Ready Heli in Fla. http://www.readyheli.com/ Horizon Hobby in Ill. http://www.horizonhobby.com/
Posted on: 6/29/2011 6:40 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10599061

RE: need 3d parkflyer
The best 3D planes, of any size, are the ones with very light weight relative to their wing area. The lighter the better. Also mid-wing seems to do better than low wing. Generally the flat/profile foamies are lighter (better for 3D) than an equivalent size foamy with full fuselage. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 6/18/2011 2:30 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10580704

RE: Economical 600 sized heli?
[quote]ORIGINAL: jesses151 I've seen plenty of forums out there where someone has built a good 450 sized heli cheap, but has anyone done a 600 sized heli cheap?  -Jesse  [/quote] My flying buddy recently bought a clone of the T-Rex 600, sold by Chaos (not sure if spelling is correct). You might want to search for that name. I heard it is made by Flasher, but can't confirm. He is fairly happy with it, except had some problem with tail control linkage that needs to be replaced with better quality.
Posted on: 6/15/2011 9:40 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10575411

RE: Newbie With Two Helis On Order
Let's see, where to start. The S107 3-channel is a fun heli for indoor only. Can't handle any wind outside, and the control is infrared so sunlight is no good. But indoors is cool. Not familiar with the V370, but if it's a 4-channel single rotor with separate tail rotor, that's going to be a big jump from the S107. So brace yourself, and try not to get frustrated. It won't be easy so take it slow. Asking questions in the forums is the right way to go, if you don't have someone to show you how.
Posted on: 4/26/2011 6:19 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10486851

RE: What makes a 450 a 450?
Yes, BladeCPNitro, it's motor size. That came from nitro planes a long time ago. Common small/medium sizes of nitro planes were .30 or .45, which is displacement of the engine. And hasn't changed for nitro helis. As explained above, [u]most[/u] manufacturers of electric helis use motor size for their helis for up to 450 and some up to 500 size. Those helis are not based on blade length, but you can compare two helis by noting their blade length. Your Blade SR is a 300 size heli, which is aprox 20 inches long, give or take an inch or so. That size/class of helis can use from 300 up to 380 size electric motor, and still be called a "300" size heli, so there is some leeway. A 450 size electric heli, like the Align T-Rex 450 usually has a 480 size electric motor. To make things more confusing, motor manufacturers don't always publish their motor size, but instead use other numbers like watts, max amps, etc. And it's true that larger [u]electric[/u] helis use blade length rather than motor size. But still use motor size for larger [u]nitro[/u] helis. Go figure?
Posted on: 4/26/2011 6:12 PM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10486836

Spray Painting Depron Foam
After some trial and error, I have discovered that the relatively new Krylon "Fusion" spray paint in a can works nicely with Depron foam. It does not melt the foam, and sticks nicely even after a few crashes which flexed the foam quite a bit. Other paints I tried will partially or fully melt the foam, including regular Krylon. Don't think this is a problem with EPP, but can't confirm.
Posted on: 4/10/2011 11:18 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10454467

RE: beginner heli
I realize there are some folks who will tell you that a 500 size heli is good for beginners. I say that's way too big for any beginner, no matter how fast a learner you are. Here's the problem. Even if you have someone to help you set it up and learn to fly it, the chances of some minor tip-overs or outright crashes are high for a beginner. The larger the heli, the more damage it does to itself, people and property if it crashes. Smaller helis can sometimes have minor crashes with no damage, which reduces the frustration factor. It's that frustration factor that causes many beginners to give up this wonderful hobby. I say you have a better chance of mastering the basic hover and staying in this hobby, if you start with a smaller FP (fixed pitch) heli.
Posted on: 4/8/2011 9:43 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10451073

RE: Bought my first heli kit (how do u feel about copter-x)
On the esc, I have no personal experience with the HobbyWing, but can say I have had great success with Turnigy esc. The Plush uses a linear BEC, and the Sentry uses a Switchmode BEC which runs cooler. Neither have governor, but do have smooth and reliable throttle response.
Posted on: 4/8/2011 9:30 AM by Author "Beachcomber" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10451054