RE: 157
Dean, if you find more than one, let me know, I need one too.
Posted on: 10/25/2011 10:19 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10782914

Ultra Stick 60 Convert to Electric Twin.
Has anyone tried this conversion? I just finished mine,I designed the nacelles from scratch. The fuselage was rebuilt after a catastrophic loop too close to the ground. Powered with PJS 2500`s and two Jet I Opto 40 ESC`s. Turning two 12x6 electric a PC props (tractor & pusher). Getting 680 watts and 37.8 amps per motor with a 5cell 4350 lip battery. All up weight is 7.2 pounds. Will try to upload pics next.
Posted on: 9/28/2011 6:54 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10739433

Ultra Stick 60 Convert to Electric Twin.
Has anyone tried this conversion? I just finished mine,I designed the nacelles from scratch. The fuselage was rebuilt after a catastrophic loop too close to the ground. Powered with PJS 2500`s and two Jet I Opto 40 ESC`s. Turning two 12x6 electric a PC props (tractor & pusher). Getting 680 watts and 37.8 amps per motor with a 5cell 4350 lip battery. All up weight is 7.2 pounds. Will try to upload pics next.
Posted on: 9/28/2011 6:53 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10739429

RE: 157
Anyone still flying their sailplane? Anyone have any available parts like a canopy?
Posted on: 9/4/2011 11:10 AM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10701052

Aeroworks .60-.90 Prox260 fuel tank
Guys, We built two of these planes, one of each color. Powered by Saito 125 Black Knight, with Xoar 16x8 Black Prop. All Digital servoes (Hitech 7925) and MG-85 on throttle. First flight: Once started, and running rich, got motor to idle after a few minutes........ Take off, only a couple a clicks of down elevator and aileron adustments and we are off. I reduced the throws another 1/2" than specified. I wanted it a little mild on the first flight. Ok flew for 10 mins just getting used to the plane. Did a couple of loops and rolls. nice flier. Did some touch and goes, and then time to land. Landed and brought plane back to bench to go over all connections. Found that battery had come loose during flight. So we re-anchored with velcro this time. Rechecked balance and time to fly again. Take off and time for some 3D attempts. Go half way around the field, ime for fun. As I am going vertical, I notice that something flew off the plane. I think I lost a hatch, so time to land. Turn he nose over and start the downhill ramp to land. I hear a really nasty noise, and lost power. Plane is still about 300 feet up and out about the same. As I get closer, I notice that the fuel tank is barely hangng on by the fuel lines. so, Land NOW !!!!! I land and take plane back to table and find that the electrical ties provided by Aero Works are brittle. Both of them snapped. I have NEVER had an Electrical Tie fail on the first or second flight. I have had them fail after 6 months of flying, but never after one flight. The electrical tie was so brittle that if you bent it backwards, it would explode into two or three pieces. Very dissapointed with Aeroworks on this, as We have purchased 9 planes from them. And have never had an issue like this. My suggestion would be to lose the electrical ties and go to the large Velcro straps. We swapped out the original foam(lost in the desert somewhere) and went to 1/2" receiver wrap. Cut to fit between the eyehooks and just long enough to run full length of the fuel tank. Then used the large velcro straps that re provided in the Extra 260 100cc arf. Will fly again this weekend, and post the results.
Posted on: 11/16/2010 8:45 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "Aero-Works Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10139980

RE: Aeroworks .60-.90 Prox260 Engine Question
works VERY WELL. We maidened the first one and flew with a 16x8 Black Xoar Prop. Half throttle is about all you need to cruise the skies.
Posted on: 11/16/2010 8:22 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "Aero-Works Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10139916

RE: Two Crashes this weekend !!!!!!!!!!!!!! 2.4?
Jim 14D, You have been fortunate indeed to not have had at least one radio glitch. I have had crashes that were my fault (reversed ailerons) on maiden voyage, (a quick $1000.00 loss) and I can admit to that. However, I have seen others loose an aircraft and had aircraft crash due to "radio glitches". You must have a club with few members, where when one drives up and starts assembling his plane and then turns on his Xmitter has not bothered to check who was on his frequency and shot someone down, or had a member of the club pull out a very old xmitter (circa 91) turn it on and have it shoot down someone who was flying. If you feel lucky enough I will send you a 9CAP xmitter that has been to a local repair center that I was told was working just fine. I wont be using it again. I lost 3 aircraft on that xmitter alone due to a "glitch" in the transmitter. the glitch kicked in at approx the 8 minute mark while flying. Just put it in your biggest airframe and fly. put whatever rcvr you want with it (PPM or PCM) as I lost a PCM Aircraft on a 148DP, a ppm on a Hitec 555, and a ppm on a futaba 8 channel ppm receiver. My crash on 2.4 on saturday, happened after approx 5 mins of flight during the second flight of the day. I dont know if it was battery failure or not, but for sure I did not have control of the aircraft when it went into a dive. and the battery tested just fine prior to the second flight. Airbusdriver: I stated that I had 2 crashes with my aircraft, both at approximately the same time in the morning, but do not know what time the other crashes were. One was on an Extreme Link system, anf the other on JR/Spectrum. I have spoken with other members of our club and being that we are in a flood control district, someone mentioned that they use 2.4ghz for gate communications for water release. I dont know if that is true or not, but until we can get it checked, I will remain on the ground between 8:15am and 9:00am if I bring only 2.4ghz to the field.
Posted on: 5/19/2010 1:05 AM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9743824

RE: 2.4ghz lockout/shootdown
rctom:Both batteries were Nimh. the first crash happened on the first flight. I tested the battery after the crash with an 8ball tester under a 1amp load and still had 6.5volts. the abttery was seperated from the receiver by about 5 feet so there was no way to see the rcvr blinking. The second crash was from 250ft up, leaving a 6"crater in the desert floor, and had to go back to the crash site to find the rcvr (Extreme Link) it was 25-30 feet away from the center of the impact point. along with the battery without any wires left in it. so no way to test that battry. The other issues lately were all spectrum or JR. We did have an isssue with a Futaba Fast 14mz that was on Fromeco Relions a voltage regulator, and a power expander board. (cant recall the name of the board.) this was a 100cc plane that just went dark on him during IMAC Maneuvers, about 8 months ago.
Posted on: 5/17/2010 9:44 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9740936

RE: Save $20 on a 50$ order from Tower..
this lastone worked for me today. Thanks JetsiMark. this was $40.00 more than their current on line advertised price discount.
Posted on: 5/16/2010 5:29 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9737744

RE: 2.4ghz lockout/shootdown
HAULING A, I took the trnsmitter to over 90 feet as this was the 2nd flight on the 2.4 system. Everything worked just fine, as did the first flight. I had also flown two other aircraft that morning on the X9303 before the mustang went in, so I know that it wasnt an issue with the Xmitter. The Extreme Link had just flown about 30 minutes before and all was well on the first flight. I checked the voltage of the rcvr prior to the second flight and all was well again.
Posted on: 5/16/2010 12:43 AM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9736527

RE: 2.4ghz lockout/shootdown
my first crash was in a hanger 9 P-51 that had about 900 flights on it and still flying well. I switched to 2.4 to avoid eing shot down, after my Futaba Transmitter (8uap) took a dump on me and fried. The antenna wires were not stretched between the two receivers and had about 1 1/2 inch of play. The P-51 had a Saito 125 in it. The Extreme Link was behind the canopy of my Goldberg Obsession and not near any other wires, batteries, etcetera. The Obsession was powered by Storm 63-74 200kv and a 5s2P 4350 battery pack and an MGM 90 Pro Speed Control. In either case, vibration wasnt an issue. as the electric was very smooth as is the Saito and will be again after it gets repaired.
Posted on: 5/15/2010 7:21 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9736029

2.4ghz lockout/shootdown
Hey all, Are there any other clubs experiencing a high rate of 2.4ghz aircraft losses? Our Club has lost 6 aircraft in two weeks, and two of them were mine. My losses occured at approximately 8:30am both times. Both times there was someone else flying on 2.4 and we were the only two flying on 2.4 at our club at that time. My first loss was with a AR7100 receiver on a JR9303 2.4 only Xmitter. My second loss (today) was on a JR 9303 usijng the Extreme Link 8 channel with a current update. I had already had one 9 minute flight and all was well. I checked the battery prior to flight and still had 6.5volts prior to take off. I had been flying for approx 4 minutes when it locked out. The first aircraft was lost on the takeoff roll. As she broke ground, the plane went to full throttle, and a slow roll to the right, with no chance of recovery. Todays lockout occured at 200 ft and never came back. Both times, I checked the receivers and batteries. the first crash's battery still showed 6.7 volts and when I hooked the servos to the receiver everything worked normally. The second crash (todays) the wires were pulled out the batttery so I was unable to test it to see what the voltage was. When I borrowed someone elses rcvr batt and hooked it all up, everything worked fine again. Any suggestions from those out there flying 2.4 or the MFR's? Thanks, Dave
Posted on: 5/15/2010 6:37 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9735960

RE: Lanier Yak
Well, we get to the field at 6:00am to get started. Bout 7:30 it's time to fly [:D] It took about 15 mins to get the motor running right (it's been a year since she last flew anything.) She is purring like a kitten, and growls like a lion when at full throttle.. So I am READY !!!!!!!! Ok, control surfaces check: Rudder.....Left is left, right is right Elevator: Up is Up, down is down. Ailerons: Left is left, right is right......... Let's go !!! Taxi out to the runway, and taxi around to get used to the way she rolls on the ground. Let's Go !!!!! Move about 100 downwind on the runway: Add power keeping a little pressure on the elevator to keep the tail wheel glued...... moving past half throttle, she's really going now !!!! ease back on the right stick, the nose comes up, there is a bit of left roll.. OK, add some right aileron, (she's about 2 feet off the deck and climbing) well, she goes more left, add RIGHT Aileron, still rolling left. I SAID RIGHT AILERON !!!!!!!!!! ........[X(] SPLAT.....[&o] One is the only number I dont like when it comes to planes. that is 16 months of waiting lost in about 5 seconds of air time..... Anyone got a Lanier Yak 54 87" for sale that's NIB? Problem with the plane: Ailerons were reversed........
Posted on: 8/15/2009 6:26 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9018851

RE: Lanier Yak
Well guys. I just finished building mine after 16months....... life has been real busy. I have mine powered with a G-62 with the original Magneto on it, and a Miller belt drive to start it. [:D] I decided to use Extreme power systems 2.4 ghz for a receiver, and use my JR 9303 with the conversion module. I have added a baffle to orce the air round the cylinder to keep it cool. after all it is still over 106 here..... If everything goes well, we maiden her on saturday morning. I can you this, my plane was out of the second generation, as I went to do all of the mods ad noticed that the landing gear box was solid. I also looked at lightening the tail feathers and decided to wait until I got it balanced without modifying. Glad I did. the motor is heavy enough that I actually had to modify the motor box and take out a 1" x 1" 45 degree bevel at the bottom of the box to clear the inverted Pitts muffler I put on the motor. I originally had standoffs that were 2" long and moved the motor way forward. (looked like the stock actual aircraft with the spinner out that far. but it would not balance. so i moved it back to a 1/4" standoff. and it is very close to balancing. just have to set the battery pack in the rear of the fuze and let it fly. I will take some pics at the field saturday and get them posted..
Posted on: 8/13/2009 10:14 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9014799

RE: Aeroworks Stingray
Update on flying characteristics. They fly great, and go where you point them. I have tried without much success to do a flat spin, and an inverted flat spin. I can get the spinning action down pretty good, but she will not flatten out. and NO i don't want to add any more weight to the tail !! SO I just keep trying. One thing we did try, and have since removed the programming for: Flaperons. We made a nice approach into the wind like a good pilot should, engaging the flaperons while still out several hundred feet from touch down and about 50 feet off the ground..... All went well until the last 3 feet. we added a little power to keep from stalling, and the bottom fell out. At this point we were only about 18 off the deck, and only damaged the prop and our ego's. SO we have elected to not try that again on landings or take offs. (It likes to nose down when you get some speed) We are averaging 7-8 minute flights and using about 65% of the Lipo's usable energy, so we will start pushing our flight times past 8 minutes as the batteries are now broken in. We have flown them on average 3 times a week. so let me see 4 months x 4 weekend flying dates = 16 days flying x 3-4 flights per day = 48-55 flights on the planes. Yes, they still look great and now we are having lots of fun flying them during dawn patrol. (prior to 7:00 am - which is before the NItro and Gas guys can fly at our field.) UPdate on the special nuts: forget it! I'm using the Perfect Prop Adaptors until they give up the ghost. Stay cool and keep flying. Dave
Posted on: 7/15/2009 2:32 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8935832

RE: Aeroworks Stingray
Brad can be reached at Badbradgraphics.com. My buddies Nephew was so impressed with our planes that he bought one too. He also ordered graphics from Brad. It has been ready to go, but he moved about 3 weeks ago, and can't find the trasmitter for this plane to go and fly it.
Posted on: 7/15/2009 2:21 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8935801

Aeroworks Stingray
; on one end. (no big deal, if you take your time with an exacto knife.) Spinner: Here is the hard part
Posted on: 2/16/2009 9:16 AM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8482211

RE: 157" Discus Glider
DMA IN, I used a PJS-5000 and put a secondary firewall to mount this monster. It cam off the "trolley" at about 1/3 - 1/2 power. Unfortunately the number on my plane was 2. Second flight, the rear alignment pins slipped out, and she went in....That was last summer, and I havent had the time to try and repair the fuze and tail boom's damage.... There's a short video on VIsion HObbies website (visionhobbies.com) if you want to see how she flew. I also posted lots of pictures here on RCU about 15 pages ago of the contruction of this plane. Good Luck in your buid and I hope your Bird's number is about 1 million. Dave.
Posted on: 8/22/2008 3:48 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7874476

RE: Sig Rascal 110
OK Guys (Especially Scott at Sig) My Grand daughter has been pestering me to learn to fly.... I have my original Tlemaster 40 with an OS60FP on it, but I want something a LOT Larger for her to see when she flys. SOmething that looks like no other aircraft out there, and is very unmistakable. Thus, here's my question: Do you think that the 110 would make a good trainer? I have a CRRCPro-26cc motor that I want to put into this thing. I wanted this plane because there is not much out there that I can stuff this motor into as a top wing aircraft. I have had reports locally that the Rascal is not a very freindly aircraft, and that it took a lot of work just to get it to fly right. Any thoughts or suggestions? Any Help at this point would be welcome before I drop the $$ to order one of these. Thanks, Dave (and Emma)
Posted on: 8/12/2008 4:06 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7838023

RE: Nitromodels Yak 52 3D
2 Months Late to see this post, but I will put in my two cents worth. I like mine, First thing though: Put flying wires on the tail feathers if you want to avoid severe failure during a snap. My AUW is 6.12 lbs Im powered with a Storm 50-55-580 an 85 amp ESC and a 3700mah 7 cell (3cell + 4 cell) (all from Vision Hobbies) I use an actual flight battery pack so I dont have to worry about losing a plane when I fly the energy out of the Lipo's. I am using a 13/8 or a 12/8 3 bladed Nitro motor prop. and I am getting 1400 watts of power at only 50amps at full throttle. Take off is at 1/3 throttle, and will perform very well across the power band. I used a CS64 servo for push/pull on the rudder, and I think 60 oz torque servos everywhere else. (why take chances with 40 oz torque servos on an aerogbatic/3D plane?) I am getting an 8-9 minute flight with some hovering, loops, flat spins, and snaps. Sometimes wish I had the 5000mah batteries but without the weight. :-)
Posted on: 4/23/2008 3:27 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7410249

RE: Storing Lipo batteries at 100%
I don't neccessarily think they are finicky. The technology of charges has changed tremendously over the last 3 years. I started with a triton (no balancing), moved on to a D109 Astro (still no balancing) on to a Hyperion Charger, and bought a balancer. What I like about this one is this: If you are running 2 each 5S1P packs, you can hook them up to the charger via two balancers and they will match balance the packs to one another by selecting one as master and the other as slave. Personally I really like this functionality of the charger/balancer set up. I still have a few of the first gen LiPo batts, that have over 400 charges on them, but I killed all of the aircraft for those, so I let them discharge into oblivion.... AS for storing over the winter, try this: 1st of month: Charge a batteries full, then discharge the next day. (like you would if you charged them up the night before). If you have 10 sets of batteries, just rotate them and do it (to each battery) about once a month or every other month. This will keep them fresh, and active. I have the same problem here in phoenix, except in the summer (when it's 116 degrees) but I try to fly at 0530 in the morning to alleviate the heat problem. Good Luck.
Posted on: 10/5/2007 4:19 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6453686

RE: Db Testing
OK, theres a lot of info above. My question is this: WHAT is the AMA's standard Testing procedure? what is the material under the aircraft supposed to be? Example: If I test on Asphalt at 100Db, I may only be at say 91Db when tested over grass, and only 93Db when testing over dirt. IR-regardles of what local DB Limitations are, or how THEY test, how does the AMA Enforce Sound limitations at all of their registered sites? IS there a uniform test? and what are the guidlines to that test? Hossfly & beepee this is why I am asking. So that our club meets the UNIFORM TESTING PROCEDURES for the AMA for DB LIMITATIONS @ a flying site. example: we take off of a paved runway, and fly over open desert. Where should we conduct the Db Test? The aircraft is only on the runway for 10-12 seconds before becoming airborne. So should we test there, or over the open desert which is our true reflecting surface? How does the AMA Test for Db limits at the NATS? is it over grass, rock, dirt, concrete, or asphalt? See my reasoning?
Posted on: 9/13/2007 4:07 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6363637

Db Testing
I have a general AMA Db Testing Question: What is the ground surface required to be for proper AMA Db Limit Testing: Grass? Pavement? Concrete? Rolled Granite? What? I know that a lot of the clubs in the eastern US fly off of grass. Some fly off of Concrete, and some off of Asphalt.... So what is the rule specific to? There is a major difference in Db levels when testing off any of the above surfaces. And our club is starting to become very stringent regarding Db levels. (My plane passed with a 98Db (on Asphalt), but I would still like to know) Any help, or knowledge anyone can impart would be helpful Thanks, Dave
Posted on: 9/10/2007 10:54 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6352701

RE: Storing Lipo batteries at 100%
I don't so much as look at the voltage I store them at. (maybe I should). I charge them up, fly them, or if the weather goes bad, I discharge them with my Hyperion charger. Then I set them aside for charging for the next time I fly. If I am going to make an Electric Day of Flying, I start on Thursday Night as it takes too long to charge up 8 batteries on friday night. When charging my batteries, they are hooked up to the balancer while charging and this helps to keep them balanced. Also note: you can se this balancer alone, by simply putting the covers over the power terminals and plugging in the batteries for discharge balancing.
Posted on: 9/4/2007 8:48 AM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6325563

RE: Storing Lipo batteries at 100%
Just my 2 cents worth: I started with a Triton (original) when I first got into electrics worked well on my Nicad's, then the Nimh's, and my 4 cell Lipos. I then moved to a an Astro 109 (several actually) worked well to a point. Got tired of not having balanced cells. So I called a friend at visionhobbies.com, and bought the Hyperion Eos 1210i charger and LBA10s net balancer. It took two cycles to balance my batteries. I am now enjoying better performace out of them, and with a longevity about double what they were lasting. One Note: DO NOT store fully charged Lipo's. If at all possible drain them either with the charger unit for 20 or so minutes, or if you use them up flying, let them rest until the night before you fly, then charge them at that point. One Item I do like about the Hyperion set up is that if you are running two 5 cell packs. you can Master/Slave two of the LBA10s's together and balance both packs together. and this can be done on ONE of the Eos 1210i chargers. I made the mistake of letting some of my Thunder Power batts, and my Tanic packs sit for 6 weeks while fully charged. Neither ever fully recovered. SO I learned an expensive lesson. Don't do that. Also, dont leave the battery in your aircraft connected to your ESC thinking that just because you have it turned off, it won;t suck the life out of the battery. Wrong again....another battery dead...... So, I never charge my batteries unless I am planning to fly the next day, and if it rains me out, I discharge them while I scowl at the rain. Hope this helps save a battery or two. Dave
Posted on: 9/3/2007 9:36 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6324158

RE: Lanier Yak
P-Diddy, I feel your pain....I have lost several of my favorite planes when they were in their prime. One was a total loss including all radio gear.. So, are you going to replace her with another one while they are still available? Or are you going to another airframe? my regrets on the loss of your plane. Dont pull a "Dave" ( I crashed my 4* 60)(My 3rd plane, witha YS91FZ) and I shook so bad trying to "relearn to fly" that my senior telemaster Hinked and jinked when I flew her, and it took me the better part of a year and a half to gain my flying confidence back....I have crashed several other planes since then, and have almost, finally gotten over loosing my confidence flying after a crash...I think....) Hope you get another one, they are the best looking of all the yak's out there IMHO... Dave
Posted on: 8/5/2007 11:14 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6201170

RE: Lanier Yak
OK guys; Here's a question I need to ask, I am going to order this plane monday or tuesday from Tower. I am looking at an 80cc motor from western hobbies. "The new EVO 80TT Sport from Spain is truly a piece of mechanical artwork. Its quality and power are unrivaled. It makes the same power as a DA100 but offers a weight savings of a single exhaust and a lightweight aluminum cylinder head that is separate from the cylinder. This is a perfect choice in power for building that lightweight 33% aircraft. Approximately 8.5hp to swing a 24x12 to 26x12 prop." IF you are putting 70cc + motors on the nose, how much does your motor weigh in at? I have gon nuts reading all 52 pages of this post about making sure to have more power than a DA-50 can produce, and the more the better she flies. I have seen the EVO 80TT motor and she looks real nice, but I am concerned about the weight in the nose. I am e-mailing Jim at Western tonight to get the weight from him of the motor with cans or mufflers so I can start comparing weights. P-Diddy, was your motor the twin 70cc? or the single ? I have read this column enough times that it is just a blurrrrrrrr. In the past I was looking at pulling the G62 out of my ISC Pitts and sticking it in the nose, but have decided to fly the pitts until the wings fall off or it's in a hundred pieces from learning how to take it off...(along with a little help of a JR G500A Gyro.... I have spoken to several who have built this plane, and after having seen where they are discontinuing this plane and replace it with a 94" model (besides the 87" is much nicer looking :-)... I am going to order it this week. So, any help that anyone can give me on motor weights would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Dave
Posted on: 8/5/2007 10:51 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6201088

RE: Gyros ?
Beepee, took me two days to find the post again (forgot to subscribe to it [X(] I went to my LHS and spoke with the the man who was my flight instructor getting me into this nasty addiction [:D]..... I explained my problem, and he said --why did you wait so long? He pointed out the new JR G500A gyro for airplanes, and it is capable of running two serovs on a Y and has an extra wire with tab for mounting either to a dial control or the retract switch. which I think I will use. Running the 9CAP Super I want to check and see if I can run one of the dials tied to the gear switch for adjusting the gain on the gyro outside the plane. My pitts is the ISC Pitts Challenger (22lb beast) with an enclosed (& glued on) canopy. I only have 5 successful flights on her, and 6 broken props from tring to "push" the take off. Thankfully the G62 is a tough motor and the shaft shows no signs of being dorked. The prop still spins true. She is just a real handfull on the ground, and a beaut to fly. (everyone stops to watch But I wonder if it's to shey can watch me land her or what....[8D] I am hoping to get the gyro in the next month or so I can start to fly her when it cools down out here. (It'll be 114 this weekend here in phoenix. and I don't care if it's a dry heat or not. It's So HOT that the flys don't fly in the sunlight for fear of getting roasted alive!!!)
Posted on: 6/29/2007 2:59 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6051377

RE: Gyros ?
Bedford, I have tried looking both Expert and Hobbico online and they no longer offer the gyros (that I can see). I am not sure about Futaba or JR as to which one I should use. thus the question here..... Any help would be appreciated. Dave
Posted on: 6/26/2007 4:20 PM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6037747

RE: Gyros ?
OK Guys, It has been 5 years since this post came up. I have a 1/4 Scale Pitts that is making me nuts on take off.(its been a while since I have flown her because of theis problem.... (of course, IT'S A PITTS!!) I am using a Futaba 9cap Super transmitter, and want one that I can turn off when I get it of the ground. So any help anyone can offer would be a great help. Thanks, Dave
Posted on: 6/26/2007 12:04 AM by Author "Big Oakden" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6034999