RE: New site...
Below is taken from that site. If you decide to order from them, you've been warned (by them). [i]The Material may contain inaccuracies or typographical errors. FUYUAN makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness, or timeliness of the Material or about the results to be obtained from using the Web Site, the Services and the Material. The use of the Web Site, the Services and the Material is at your own risk. Changes are periodically made to the Web Site and may be made at any time. FUYUAN DOES NOT WARRANT THAT THE WEB SITE WILL OPERATE ERROR-FREE OR THAT THIS WEB SITE AND ITS SERVERS ARE FREE OF COMPUTER VIRUSES AND OTHER HARMFUL GOODS. IF YOUR USE OF THE WEB SITE OR THE MATERIAL RESULTS IN THE NEED FOR SERVICING OR REPLACING EQUIPMENT OR DATA, FUYUAN IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THOSE COSTS. THE WEB SITE, SERVICES AND MATERIAL ARE PROVIDED ON AN "AS IS" BASIS WITHOUT ANY WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND. FUYUAN AND ITS SUPPLIERS, TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMITTED BY LAW, DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING THE WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY, NON-INFRINGEMENT OF THIRD PARTIES' RIGHTS, AND THE WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR PARTICULAR PURPOSE. FUYUAN AND ITS SUPPLIERS MAKE NO WARRANTIES ABOUT THE ACCURACY, RELIABILITY, COMPLETENESS, OR TIMELINESS OF THE MATERIAL, SERVICES, GRAPHICS, AND LINKS.[/i]
Posted on: 9/8/2011 10:21 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10707307

RE: New site...
They have some huge, 26cc gas engine powered tanks that are listed as $0.00 US. Even when added to the cart the total price is listed as $0.00, haha.
Posted on: 9/8/2011 10:08 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10707283

RE: Viper Brushless
[quote]ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9 Yea xtm uses those also. look up on youtube videos on the new xtm with the viper system in it. that should give you a good idea of what it does in a 1/10 buggy. they seem pretty decent. i would just try to find user reviews. i personally havent used it if thats what you were looking for. but its pretty new so i dont think anyone has had the chance to try it out yet. like i said, your best bet is to prob find user reviews for the people that did get it. [/quote] Do you have any links? I can't seem to find anything relating to a Viper system being used in XTM vehicles (YouTube or otherwise).
Posted on: 8/31/2011 10:03 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10696206

RE: Spektrum DX3S Issue
Just did some tests. I first tested with a S6070 servo connected to the steering channel. It centered in the same position each time and held steady when there was no input with the steering wheel. I then connected the servo to the throttle channel. At first the servo seemed to stay put when the throttle was in neutral, but it didn't always stop in quite exactly the same spot. However, after a few back and forth and back to center cycles the servo could be observed moving slightly in one direction from center after returning to neutral (finger off the trigger). So while the difference in where it stops is relatively small (though not perfect) the main problem is that 75-80% of the time it slowly moves away from center once the trigger returns to neutral. Also, just a quick note. The ESC stayed in neutral during the testing while connected to the steering channel.
Posted on: 8/29/2011 8:40 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10692812

RE: losi 42cc big block xxl
^Yeah, I wasn't saying your point was wrong. If anything, your point about the drivetrain not holding up is even more so considering the numbers were lower than those you first threw out there. Converting foot pounts to inch pounts is as simple as dividing inch pounts by 12 to get foot pounts, and multiplying foot pounts by 12 to get inch pounts. I.E., 12 inch Lbs. is 1 foot Lb. 48 inch pounds = 4 Ft. Lbs., etc. HP = (Ft. Lb. Torque X RPM)/5252. So, if the engine makes 2.0 HP at 30,000 RPM for example, that works out to approximately 4.2 inch pounds of torque at 30,000 RPM. 4.2 inch lbs is 0.35 Ft. Lbs. So 0.35x30,000/5252=1.999 HP Sorry, this really doesn't have anything important to do with this thread. I'm done, haha.
Posted on: 8/29/2011 10:39 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691954

RE: losi 42cc big block xxl
[quote]ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r [quote]ORIGINAL: art2010 the cluch bell on the engine has a gear that gear spins the nitro cluch bell and that turns the main gear of the tranny so i beleve it will work let say the engine turns 5-6000 rpms then from gearing the nitro cluch bell spins faster and then turns the tranny so hopefully it works [/quote] Well, regardless of how its geared (it sounds like you have it set up so it should work), you just need to make sure that your rpm is turning fast enough at the spur gear to get the 2spd clutch to engage so it shifts. I dont think the drivetrain is going to hold up for very long with that amount of power. I'll go out on a limb and estimate that 42cc chainsaw engine to put out a real-world 2-3hp, whereas the stock .28 glow engine probably put out 1.5hp and that might even be a tad optimistic. Also, the torque from the chainsaw engine will probably be in the 1-3 [b] foot pounds [/b] whereas the glow engine is probably 150-175 [b] inch pounds [/b] so I'd be leary of the stock drivetrain holding up. I'd still like to see some bigger pictures, mainly to see how you have the engine mounted and the gear setup. Definitely a ''thinking outside the box'' idea, for sure. [/quote] Sorry, I just had to comment on the part above with regards to foot Lbs. and inch Lbs. 150-175 inch Lbs would be 12.5 -14.58 Ft. Lbs. Assuming that peak torque (150 inch Lbs.) came at 20,000 RPM on the nitro motor, that would be 47 HP. Probably more like 5 or 6 inch Lbs for the nitro engine, if I had to guess.
Posted on: 8/28/2011 11:51 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10690655

RE: Spektrum DX3S Issue
I will try that as soon as I get a chance (probably later tonight) and post the results. I first noticed the problem with a Mamba Max Pro ESC with an SR300 receiver. I had driven that very vehicle not long before that and had no such issue. However, I still didn't think much of it until a few days later when I completed my TLR 22 buggy with a brand new Tekin RS Pro and SR3300T receiver and found it had the same issue. I will try swapping the ESC and servo. It will also be interesting to see not only what the servo does on the throttle channel, but if the ESC stays in neutral when on the steering channel. Edit: Also, both ESCs will not arm when initially powered up until they see a neutral position on the transmitter, and since this problem started I often have to blip reverse a time or two before it stays in neutral long enough to arm the ESC. So apparently the issue is occurring even before the ESCs arm.
Posted on: 8/28/2011 7:09 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10690318

Spektrum DX3S Issue
I'm having an issue with the throttle channel on my DX3S. It happens with multiple receivers and speed controls, so I'm fairly certain it's the transmitter. When I let the throttle go to neutral it only stays there for a split second (even if I'm not touching the trigger at all). It will very quickly act as if I'm very slightly giving throttle. The ESC will indicate slight throttle almost imediately, and then it will slowly build higher until the vehicle is actually driving forwards slightly. If I blip the trigger in either direction it will stop and go back to neutral, but will again start slowly applying throttle on it's own. I can adjust the trim to make it stop, but once I give throttle a few times it will begin doing the same thing again. I even tried widening the neutral width in my ESC programming, but the issue persists (though it's slightly reduced). I've had the DX3S for a while (couple years) and it just started this issue. It seems to work ok otherwise, and for the most part, it's not a huge issue when driving around, though it is annoying. One of the main problems is that the ammount of time it remains in neutral is usually just a bit shorter than the time it takes any of my ESCs to arm reverse. So getting my cars to go backwards has become tricky. I could simply change the ESC settings to eliminate the reverse delay, but I hate when I get a little too carried away with the brakes and the tires lock up and the ESC imediately switches to reverse and ends up spinning the car out. So I really prefer it waits to see neutral before engaging reverse. I figure unless I can open it up and find something obvious (loose throttle potentiometer or something) my only option is to send it to Horizon. Or is there something else I can try myself?
Posted on: 8/28/2011 6:55 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10690298

RE: Opinions on what to buy
[quote]ORIGINAL: ThunderbirdJunkie To power the SC10 4x4, you can skate by with a Mamba Max Pro, but then you'll need to add an external BEC to run a GOOD servo like the S6040, Savox 1258TG, etc. [/quote] The Mamba Max Pro has a switch-mode BEC. Has it been shown to be weak or something?
Posted on: 8/26/2011 7:22 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10688801

RE: Slash 4x4/sidewinder/5700
[quote]ORIGINAL: KID_EVIL! Is anyone else running this combo in a slash 4x4. I'm running a 13/54 on 2s 5000mah. my temps after 12 mins running are about 153 degrees and that is with two motor fans.. But that is with the timeing slowed down and running at 80% max speed. I just feel I am cheating myself out of some crazy power. I do have a 11t and 12t pinion on the way. By the way I race this truck, so I need to be able to depend on that temp staying low. I would imagine the temps will be fine during a 7 minute qualify and probably good for a 10 min main..... But I want to get some of that 20% back without burning it up. anyone else running this combo set up secrets would be great. I read in rc car action that matt higgins has a rustler with the same combo running 120 degrees...... KID EVIL! [/quote] Unfortunately there are no setup secrets. The Rustler is lighter and 2 wheel drive, so it will run cooler. Setup for the same power and top speed, that motor/ESC combo will run much hotter in a 4X4 Slash than it will in a Rustler.
Posted on: 8/26/2011 7:09 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10688788

RE: ELECTRIC VS. NITRO
I tried a couple different ways and I can't make that into anything that will show me a video. I think you need to fix your link.
Posted on: 8/24/2011 6:25 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10685776

RE: Tyco R/C Mutator.....Please Help!
[quote]ORIGINAL: cumquat you told him, and it only took 5 years... and i wouldnt call this a toy [/quote] I would call that "Awesome". I've always wanted to do basically exactly what they did (with the likely exception of pissing on the engine). My cousin and I discussed doing this years ago, we even had a potential junker car lined up that would have worked. But it really wasn't worth it for us for multiple reasons. But I would still call that a toy. Just a really big, dangerous one.
Posted on: 8/24/2011 4:18 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10685634

RE: Losi TLR 22 Buggy (Pics)
[quote]ORIGINAL: cul8tr The expense of the Viper set up is what's stopping me from getting it. $230 for the combo is a bit tough. I decided to put a 4600kv Castle motor in the 22. So far I like it, at least I can use all the power of the 4600. 20t pinion and a 76t spur it's a little warm. I'm going to try a 16t or a 18t pinion.  I put the 8.5 novak in 1 of my Slash trucks. A local guy has got a good deal on a 22, so I may end up with another 1. I'm using Gens Ace lipo batteries. I can get 3 of their saddle packs for the price of the Losi Shorty. Thanks [/quote] I paid more than that for my RS Pro combo, but I paid for convenience (bought local so I didn't have to order it). Might not be a deal breaker, but the RS and RS Pro have lower on-resistance than the VTX10 and VTX10R respectively according to each manufacturer's site specs. The VTX10/R does seem to have a more powerful BEC (possibly a switch mode), which should be a benefit. One reason I went with the RS Pro vs the standard RS in the 22 is because of the low slung, form fitting body it has. I figured it's going to basically trap all the heat in and prevent the ESC from getting any decent airflow. Not to mention the fact that it's mounted directly above the motor in mid-motor configuration. I figured I wanted the ESC to run as cool as possible, without any heatsink or fan (which the RS Pro has neither). I figured the RS Pro may run a bit cooler than the RS since it has half the resistance.
Posted on: 8/22/2011 2:56 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10682217

RE: new batteries not working ... PLEASE HELP!!!
No problem. When you turn the ESC on with any of the new batteries attached it flashes briefly and then goes off again? Is there any way you could check the voltage on the ESC side of the connector when you do this and see if voltage drops or goes away when the ESC first turns on? Also, if you try to turn the ESC on again without doing anything else (like disconnecting and re-connecting the battery) does it turn on briefly again? Do all three of the new batteries have the new "universal" Venom connector? Also, the reason I asked about polarity wasn't because I thought you were connecting it wrong, but I've seen a battery wired wrong once (the wires were connected to the plug backwards from standard). But it sounds like that's all good. It was a long shot anyway considering it was happening with multiple batteries.
Posted on: 8/22/2011 6:54 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10681424

RE: new batteries not working ... PLEASE HELP!!!
[quote]ORIGINAL: TheKennyKiller I was going to start another thread but I kinda have the same problem. I just got some Lipos (3s 11.1v) and when I charge one of them and check each individual cell only 3 of them are taking charge. This is my first lipo and it's on it's first charge but I am pretty sure that all six cells are meant to be charging at the same rate. Do I have 3 dead cells ? if I do I will never buy venom again [/quote] You only have 3 cells in that battery. The charger shows voltage readings for 6 possible cells, but your battery only has 3 and the readings look perfectly fine on all three. Based on the picture I would say you have a perfectly good battery. A [b]3S[/b] LiPo has [b]3[/b] cells in [b]S[/b]eries, so that is why only 3 of the cell voltage readouts on your charger are showing voltage. Just a quick question, when you compared the milliamps taken by each of your Ni-MH batteries, was your traxxas battery run down in your truck vs. the other batteries simply doing a discharge/charge cycle? If so, it's possible that your truck drains the battery further, possibly accounting for the difference. This isn't for sure, just a possiblity. Considering this is the third battery with the same problem, I would start looking more closely at the possiblity of a connection problem. Also confirm that the polarity of the new batteries matches the old battery and truck.
Posted on: 8/22/2011 4:15 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10681244

RE: Losi TLR 22 Buggy (Pics)
[quote]ORIGINAL: Foxy My LHS, which has never had a Losi in it ever in the past to my knowledge (Xray and HPI dealer) has a sealed 22 box sitting in front of the counter. Might ask them how much they want for it. Does look good. [/quote] My LHS has lots of Losi stuff, but just the RTR stuff. In general they don't stock many kits, and they don't yet carry any replacement parts for the 22. When I saw that they actually had a 22 I couldn't pass it up.
Posted on: 8/21/2011 7:06 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10679913

RE: Losi TLR 22 Buggy (Pics)
[quote]ORIGINAL: Lilredmachine These are extremely nice looking buggies. Despite the couple of quality control issues you ran into, the kit is vey high end by the looks of it. I too agree with buying the best quality kit for bashing, if it's made for racing then it's likely to stand up to 'youthful' exuberance. The body and paint on yours looks very nice indeed. [/quote] Thanks. Yeah, the minor issues were a bit of an annoyance, but Horizon took care of it quickly, and everything else seems great. I haven't gotten to drive it much, been busy lately. I'm typically easier on my stuff than some of what I've seen when "bashing". But still, this does look like it should hold up well to the occasional oops. So far I've noticed a couple things. First, the shocks are fairly stiff, which is great for handling on relatively smooth terrain, and provides great dampening on landings from jumps. However, they could be a bit softer over rough terrain. Overall though, it does feel incredibly well planted the majority of the time. Also, with the gearing and ESC settings I have the motor and ESC barely get warm. Might have to go up a couple teeth or increase the timing/boost settings.
Posted on: 8/21/2011 7:00 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10679908

RE: Kit..?
Tamiya makes some kits that make decent trail trucks. How fast do you want to go? They make some nice scale vehicles, but they aren't great at higher speeds simply due to the scale proportions. If you are ok with a buggy, Tower Hobbies has the Associated B4 Factory Team kit for a decent price. Fast, stable and good handling, though it's not exactly a hardcore off-roader. Just curious, does your $200 budget include electronics or is that just for the kit?
Posted on: 8/16/2011 5:15 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10673572

RE: Rustler vxl suspension help
I'm still a bit confused (confusion seems rampant in this thread, haha). There is a small roll pin that goes through the axle, holding the hex in place on the axle. This must be removed before the axle can be removed from the bearings/bearing carrier. The confusion came from whether you were having trouble removing the small roll pin from the axle, or having trouble removing the axle itself from the bearing carrier. TBJ's first post was on removing the roll pin from the axle. When you posted again, with pictures he questioned what you were trying to do. Assuming you are trying to remove the axle itself from the bearing carrier, I'll talk about that. If the axle gets bent, or the hole for the roll pin gets elongated from excess stress, the axle may no longer fit through the bearings properly since the fit is usually a very close tolerance. Does the axle move back and forth in the bearings at all, or is it stuck completely? On a side note, I notice that TBJ's mannerisms often rub people the wrong way, and people often lash out at how he asks a question. But in most of those cases people spend 10x the time it would have taken to simply answer the question he asked, instead trying to make a case against him. And if the question had simply been answered I have little doubt he would have simply continued helping with the issue at hand. Just something I've noticed a lot of lately. In general people need to lighten up, laugh about things more, and try to ignore the things that get a rise out of them. An annoyance ignored will be removed by the annoyer much more quickly than one that clearly gets a reaction.
Posted on: 8/15/2011 4:07 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10672370

RE: Does VXL care?
[quote]ORIGINAL: jrowles91 [quote]ORIGINAL: Eman77 Does the fact that the VXL3s have a resistance of .00075 Ohms compared to .0003 of the MMM (over twice the resistance of the MMM) play a role? [/quote] i wouldn't know about the resistance. That doesn't look like a whole lot though from either esc [/quote] Resistance makes a difference and is a helpful rating. Resistance basically creates heat when you pass current through it. The difference may be small when you look at it as only a .00045 Ohm difference. But if you consider that the MMM has less than half the resistance of the Traxxas ESC the difference becomes much more interesting. With equal current flowing through each ESC, the VXL3S would create over twice the heat of the MMM from internal resistance. There are more factors at play and it's not quite that cut and dry simple, but that's the basic principle. Resistance isn't the only thing to consider. Heat dissipation ability is important. There are other components that create heat as well, primarily the BEC. In many ESCs the BEC is just a linear regulator which is inefficient and creates a lot of heat, particularly at higher voltages. Some ESCs (the MMM is one of them) have a switching BEC, which is more efficient, particularly at higher voltages, and they create less heat. There are many factors. Ratings also vary by manufacturer and application. In many cases "continuous" simply means an amount of time greater than a split second burst. 200 amps is a seriously huge amount of current and is very likely not a "true" rating. Meaning, I would put money on the table that the VXL3S would melt in a relatively short time if it had a full 200 amps flowing through it "continuously".
Posted on: 8/11/2011 8:39 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10666757

RE: Official vorza flux thread
You first.
Posted on: 8/7/2011 2:13 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10659922

RE: INTEGRATED Balancing?
On chargers with a balancer built in they still use the balance lead on the battery. Typically there is simply a balance port or plug built into the charger itself that the balance lead from the battery plugs into, so you don't need an extra module.
Posted on: 8/7/2011 1:59 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10659901

RE: Losi TLR 22 Buggy (Pics)
I put my watt meter on the 22 just for kicks. I did several full throttle launches from a stop and the highest peak I recorded was around 18 amps. I then pressed the rear of the chassis against the ground and gave a quick burst of throttle to simulate potential surge current while driving. Just in case anyone was curious, the tires still spun, so I wasn't creating a locked rotor situation for the motor/ESC. I measured a peak of 36 amps after about a second of full throttle with the chassis pressed down and held in place. This test served a second purpose of confirming that the differential didn't slip with it's current setting. That tortured, howling squeal of a ball differential slipping is a horrible thing. These numbers will likely go up a bit when I get a more powerful Li-Po that holds a bit more voltage under load. Just in case anyone did a facepalm when mentioned a quick drive using only a 2300 mAh battery, it's good for 57 amps continuous, and 115 amp bursts, so it was obviously fine considering how much this car is drawing, which is close to what I expected and why I wasn't worried. Should run very cool as is with room to go up in gearing and/or timing. I'll check the temps during the first hard run, but I fully expected to be a bit under geared. When compared to the team driver setups on Tekin's site, I'm definitely geared very conservatively. But on a new setup I'd rather find out I have room to move up than to check temps during the first run and find it's running too hot.
Posted on: 8/6/2011 7:30 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10658059

RE: Losi TLR 22 Buggy (Pics)
^Thanks. I adjusted the slipper and changed the diff setting as well. I also changed the neutral width setting in the ESC because I'm having issues with my radio. Anybody want to buy a DX3S, haha. I had to trim the body a tiny bit beyond the lines they give in order for it to properly clear the transmission. Now I just need time to actually drive the thing. Hopefully this weekend.
Posted on: 8/5/2011 4:39 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10656357

RE: My Losi Ten-T Electric Conversion BuilT thread
Looks great. Good luck out on the track, I hope it runs as good as it looks. With the components you have there it should. Any particular reason you went with the nitro version and converted it rather than buying a Ten SCTE? Just curious.
Posted on: 8/4/2011 6:58 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10655882

Spektrum DX3S Issue
I'm having an issue with the throttle channel on my DX3S. It happens with multiple receivers and speed controls, so I'm fairly certain it's the transmitter. When I let the throttle go to neutral it only stays there for a split second (even if I'm not touching the trigger at all). It will very quickly act as if I'm very slightly giving throttle. The ESC will indicate slight throttle almost imediately, and then it will slowly build higher until the vehicle is actually driving forwards slightly. If I blip the trigger in either direction it will stop and go back to neutral, but will again start slowly applying throttle on it's own. I can adjust the trim to make it stop, but once I give throttle a few times it will begin doing the same thing again. I even tried widening the neutral width in my ESC programming, but the issue persists. I've had the DX3S for a while (couple years I think) and it just started this issue. It seems to work ok otherwise, and for the most part, it's not a huge issue when driving around, though it is annoying. One of the main problems is that the ammount of time it remains in neutral is usually just a bit shorter than the time it takes any of my ESCs to arm reverse. So getting my cars to go backwards has become tricky. I could simply change the ESC settings to eliminate the reverse delay, but I hate when I get a little too carried away with the brakes and the tires lock up and the ESC imediately switches to reverse and ends up spinning the car out. So I really prefer it waits to see neutral before engaging reverse. I figure unless I can open it up and find something obvious (loose throttle potentiometer or something) my only option is to send it to Horizon. Anybody have any similar issues? Anybody have any experience with out of warranty service from Horizon?
Posted on: 8/4/2011 5:04 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10654628

RE: Losi TLR 22 Buggy (Pics)
Took it for a quick spin. I didn't have a proper battery for it handy, so I used one that was too small (2300 mAh 2S) and just took it for a very quick spin to try it out. I can't believe how smooth it is. The second I started driving two people commented on how smooth and silent it drives. There is virtually zero mechanical noise (gear noise, etc.) and very little sound from the power system as well. One guy said "well that right there goes to show the difference of a high end kit". It wasn't the proper terrain to really test the handling, but it seems promising. It jumps incredibly flat and lands totally composed. The handling seemed a little loose (oversteer) at times, but that's not surprising with the Caliber tires where I was running. It was very responsive and the control was very consistent and felt very direct. Overall, first impressions are fantastic.
Posted on: 8/3/2011 7:07 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10654142

RE: Water proofing an ESC with RTV?
[quote]ORIGINAL: The Mad Modder I don't think most people here even know what RTV is. Being in the automotive field, I do. It's a silicone based sealer that's mostly used to seal car engine and drive-line components against leaks. As long as you coat the board and let it dry before reassembling it, you'll be fine. I say that because rtv tends to stick to thing very well and if you close up the case while its wet it may prove difficult to remove the board from the case in the future. Since rtv dries, it doesn't attract dirt and crud like grease does. It also comes in a lot of cool colors; red, blue, grey, black, and orange/copper(shown below). [image]http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTiG0Iz51PAwMtKxUopBDURa87tQ6wUv3O_0gGQU0l_ah9HdZ-U[/image] [/quote] It's silicone "based", but there are other chemicals as well. Some RTV sealers produce small amounts of corrosive by-products as it cures/dries. This can damage sensitive electronic components. However, there are RTV sealants that are non-corrosive and non conductive. Just make sure you use the right type. Edit: Not that it matters much, but the different colors are typically different formulations with varying operating temperatures, chemical resistances, etc.
Posted on: 8/3/2011 9:15 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10653052

RE: Brushless motor questions...
[quote]ORIGINAL: JustHover Hi thanks for the feedback. While I waited for a response I found the Mongoose Micro 1/18 BL System 8.5T (9000kv). It's cheaper than the CC options and it has a robot mode which has the symmetrical response if forward and reverse. And it does not require a programmer. Because in robot sumo we need speed and torque, my idea was to use the higher kv motor and gear it down for the optimum rpm. That would give me the most power available for the weight of the system. I will be using 11.1vdc lipos. I'm totally fine with borrowing parts from RC cars. I like Losi stuff. Anyone happen to know the gear reductions available in these small RC cars, or the rpm of the above system at the motors shaft? [/quote] The KV rating is the unloaded RPM of the motor shaft per volt applied. If you are running a 3S Li-Po you will be getting over 46,000 RPM even at the battery's nominal voltage on a 4200KV motor. Gearing that down to get 750-1000 RPM would require something like a 45:1 transmission ratio. For that type of reduction ratio I would look at rock crawlers. The 9000KV motor would be twice that fast, around 100,000 RPM unloaded. The motor will be screaming and drawing more power than necessary, wasting energy because the RPM would be just too high.
Posted on: 8/3/2011 8:28 AM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10653139

RE: stampede with sv2 castle set up....problems
[quote]ORIGINAL: ThunderbirdJunkie [quote]ORIGINAL: BigTb17 http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/gearing_chart.pdf Check out Castle's gearing chart. [/quote] Castle's gearing chart is horse shit. [/quote] Really? I've never actually ran one of their motors, haha. I've used several of their controllers though.
Posted on: 8/2/2011 6:58 PM by Author "BigTb17" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10652313