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RE: 1/2A trainer anyone?
The 1/2A All the Way MSN site is gone, so here are new links to the plans. http://donatelli.net/LST.zip http://donatelli.net/LST-Laser-parts.zip
Posted on: 10/31/2009 6:55 AM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9217087
RE: Is this guy serious?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Andrew Is that in CDN or USD?? Probably too much in either case.[;)] [/quote] What's the difference, these days? [;)]
Posted on: 10/29/2009 8:03 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9213447
RE: Postal Plane Project
Flybug was waiting for instructions from dieFluggeister, but he hasn't logged in since July 13th. This project was started by dieFluggeister, so he'd be the man to ask about the status of Grace. There's an email on his website, so maybe someone should give him a shout. http://www.crowriverrc.com/
Posted on: 10/25/2009 7:25 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9201443
RE: comparing radio range checks. Your thoughts
[quote]ORIGINAL: safeTwire IMO, Do not fly Radio A. The 75 foot range check falls short of the standard. YES to your question. The [i]complete set-up[/i] of Radio C is providing the strongest communication. [/quote] You really don't know unless the same receiver was used for each test. What if the receiver in the plane used with radio A is defective?
Posted on: 9/27/2009 10:42 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9128702
RE: comparing radio range checks. Your thoughts
I like to test by walking the plane away from the transmitter too. Much easier to see a small glitch that way.
Posted on: 9/24/2009 11:08 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9121898
RE: comparing radio range checks. Your thoughts
The range check is a generalized test to see if anything is different from the last time you checked, not an absolute test of signal quality relative to the antenna length. In other words, if you usually get 75 feet and then one day you get 40 feet, then something is wrong. Pretty tough to do with the antenna at full length, you'd have to walk miles away. In most cases if you find a problem, the receiver is the culprit anyways, not the transmitter. Also, range checks should be done with the engine running and at different throttle settings. Vibration can adversely affect radio performance. I had a plane once where one of the bolts on the landing gear wore through the foam around the battery and was touching the metal of one of the nicads. At low throttle everything was fine, but when I throttled up the servos went crazy. A range check allowed me to catch this problem and resolve it before flying. So to answer your question, your tests may not necessarily mean one radio is better than the other, but that doesn't mean that doing a range check isn't important.
Posted on: 9/23/2009 11:50 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9119456
RE: 2009 Design Nontest
There will be joy in Raleigh - the mighty Raymond won't strike out! Very enjoyable read. Slap an .020 on that puppy.
Posted on: 9/22/2009 5:00 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9115861
RE: 1/2 Pylon Video
I wonder if it has to do with the diameter of the Nichrome. Probably easiest to replace it with fishing leader.
Posted on: 9/19/2009 1:36 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9107837
RE: 1/2 Pylon Video
On my old bow I used a DC power supply with stainless steel fishing leader and it cut nice and smooth. On my CNC cutter I use nichrome and an AC supply. The nichrome heats up more quickly, but it has a bit of stretch to it - this is resolved by having a spring to tension the wire. I haven't had any uneven heating - maybe because I'm using AC power.
Posted on: 9/18/2009 10:32 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9106780
RE: Norvels are back on stock : hurry up !
[quote]ORIGINAL: Silvaire [quote]ORIGINAL: DeviousDave ... It's not very common for Americans to ship anything to Europe. Unlike Europeans, we are/have been isolated enough that we don't consider ourselves to be part of the ''global economy''. It's too bad, because it goes both ways-I bought two of my VA .049's from Bipin @ Engines Unlimited in England, most Americans wouldn't do that either. Maybe pay services like Paypal (hate those @$$#0les) will change that? [/quote] It's not just stereotypical ''provincial American attitudes'' that keep some USA feebay sellers from offering their auctions to those outside the USA. PayPal has some unrealistically short time frame requirements for delivery as well as proof of delivery requirements. An unscrupulous (or impatient) buyer from outside the USA can often have a delay in delivery (or find some loophole) and file a claim for a refund from PayPal - and on appeal PayPal rarely sides with a seller in such matters. It is only because of PayPal's policies I will not sell outside the USA. I would happily accomodate buyers from outside the USA if all I had to do was to be able to provide evidence to PayPal that I had shipped the item. Unfortunately I have to rely on the postal services of other countries to deliver the item in a very short time frame AND to provide the evidence that the item was delivered to the buyer. Failure to do so on either account is grounds for PayPal to refund the buyer at his request. [/quote] Many American sellers wont ship to Canada either. I understand that it's frustrating though; shipping internationally can be a real pain. I've shipped kits to Isreal without problems and with delivery confirmation, but shipping to Texas once took several weeks to a rather impatient buyer. So I can see how since the market in the US is large enough that you can ignore the rest of the world, one wouldn't want to deal with the hassles of international shipping. Love PayPal, btw!!![:D]
Posted on: 9/18/2009 6:49 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9106313
RE: Norvels are back on stock : hurry up !
[quote]ORIGINAL: DeviousDave [quote]ORIGINAL: alcarafa [quote]ORIGINAL: DeviousDave Sorry, but I think this is a dry well... There are still plenty on Ebay. Don't balk at the price if you can help it-a $50 Norvel would be $60-70 today even if they still made them. The extra $10-20 is worth the enjoyment you will get. I can't even get a good LiPoly pack at the local hobby shop for $60 these days, a whole engine for the same price is a bargain! Git 'er Dun! [/quote] Dont know where you buy LIPO's but nobody beats www.hobbyking.com for lipoly. electric engines,esc's etc... at real bargain prices [/quote] A thunder power 2s 2100 pack is $68 at my local hobby store. Yes, there are cheaper Lipos out there but you really don't know what you are getting until you have a cycle or two on them. [/quote] I tend to agree, for the most part. I'm always cautious about deals that seem too good to be true and never really trust the people who post "I just bought generic brand LiPos and they're great!", after only 1 flight. However, having said that I know several people who've bought the Zippy packs from Hobby King and have been using them for over a year. I waited a long time before buying them myself and they've been as good as any name brand packs I have, although admittedly they only have a few flights on them. At the BC pattern competition last weekend, the winner in FAI class was using Zippy packs.
Posted on: 9/18/2009 6:33 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9106285
RE: 1/2 Pylon Video
Weeeeeeeeeeeeee... that was fun! Thanks for posting. The electric sure looked good and performed great, but there's something exciting about the noise and extra variables of the glow planes.
Posted on: 9/17/2009 5:48 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9103770
RE: Give away Surestart RC contest.
If I had a Yorkshire, I'd name it Puddin'. [;)]
Posted on: 9/15/2009 7:33 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9098505
RE: Not halfA but still relevent. Prop safety always!
[quote]ORIGINAL: crossman My solution to the test stand issue is to mount it on a Black and Decker workmate. This way, I can move around it freely, much like a plane on a starting stand. [/quote] After my incident, I realized that the test stand should be on the right side of the table, instead of the left. That way you reach around behind to get at the needle valve.
Posted on: 9/15/2009 2:14 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9097797
RE: Not halfA but still relevent. Prop safety always!
Yup, ever since that experience I've given main attention to the prop over everything else. If I'm adjusting the mixture, starting, carrying the plane etc, the main thing is to stay away from the prop - the other task at hand is second priority.
Posted on: 9/15/2009 12:25 AM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9096541
RE: Not halfA but still relevent. Prop safety always!
[quote]ORIGINAL: combatpigg Rehearse all your movements and choreograph your routine into a smooth, flowing ritual that begins as soon as the engine comes to life. Not even an earthquake or a swarm of bees should disrupt it. Being lefthanded, I lay the starter down with that hand and rotate the prop away from my face with the right. Once in this position, with the model pointed away from me.......I'm pretty safe. I've got a few knuckle burns from TDs, but the back side of the prop repels you. You would have to be pretty spastic to get badly bit if you follow this advice. The worst cases I've seen were guys who place faith in things other than their 2 hands to stay safe. Bumping the throttle lever is NO EXCUSE......it's a perfect example of what I'm talking about. I start most everything I own at full throttle. [/quote] Words to live by, Piggy. In my case the engine was on a test stand and because I had to stand beside the table, instead of behind like I would with a plane, my hand was coming in from the side. The engine sagged and I quickly tried to richen the mixture, but my hand being in a different position than usual... BZZZZT!
Posted on: 9/14/2009 10:19 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9096226
RE: Give away Surestart RC contest.
Peewee
Posted on: 9/14/2009 9:20 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9096045
RE: What to do with a broken prop?
Nice, clear cross sections there. I guess once you have it in CAD you can CNC a prop just about any size you want. Will you be able to tweak the pitch?
Posted on: 9/14/2009 9:16 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9096029
RE: Not halfA but still relevent. Prop safety always!
I received 5 stitches from a Norvel encounter. Just a split second distraction when adjusting the needle valve was all it took. Some people are a little "meh, whatever" when it comes to safety, but it's all fun until someone loses an eye.[:@]
Posted on: 9/14/2009 9:09 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9096012
RE: 1/2A THRUST-O-METER
[quote]ORIGINAL: BTerry CP, is there a Master Airscrew prop that works on the Norvel .074? I know the APC 7x3 seems perfect, but I want something a bit more durable. One of these days I will build something, put this engine in it, and bring it over to your side of the Sound for show and tell! [/quote] MA makes a 7X3. In fact, I prefer it to the APC in that size only. It gets more thrust on the .074. In all other sizes on all other engines, I prefer APC. I see you're in Silverdale, WA - I'm in Silverdale, BC. :)
Posted on: 9/11/2009 6:27 AM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9086265
RE: nontest 09.
Very cool design. I'm looking forward to seeing what it'll be like when it's completed.
Posted on: 9/9/2009 6:32 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9082343
RE: Ace foam wing cores
Skaliwag, I sent you an email with the DXF.
Posted on: 9/3/2009 2:21 AM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9066216
RE: Ace foam wing cores
[quote]ORIGINAL: skaliwag I know some one has sent me one before but can't locate it and could use a CAD of the Ace Foam Cores.. [/quote] I have the CAD and DAT files that I made up of the ACE Mini Foam Wings for my foam cutter. Rename the attachemt to zip.
Posted on: 9/3/2009 1:27 AM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9066163
RE: Hoarding 1/2A supplies
I've been hoarding 1/2A stuff for years. I've probably got enough to last the rest of my life. lol[;)]
Posted on: 8/28/2009 12:19 AM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9051002
RE: 1/2A primer bottles
[quote]ORIGINAL: AndyW For small engines, we need to prime just a drop or two to the intake, or the exhaust as is the case with Cox engines. My mentor, who started his modeling career in the 40s had a little, tin, oil thingie. We always knew Jack was around when you heard that little pucka, pucka sound it made. I never could find such an item locally. For the last few years, I would make up a neat little primer bottle from one of those worm inflators. This small poly bottle had a syringe needle tip. The idea was to inflate the worm so that it would float and attract fish. PETA never noticed so they were always available. I would grind off the point and it was perfect for adding a drop or two to the intake. Always available was a good thing because the plastic cap would eventually fail. No doubt, they didn't take into account the alternate use aspect, of their product. But the world of Internet shopping comes to the rescue. Here, https://www.a2zcorp.us/store/Category.asp?Cguid={CF7BE930-4855-4B47-AB82-7F830E857994}&Category=ModelTools%3ANeedleCap%5FBottle is a website that offers just what we need and it comes with a very nicely machined, aluminum cap. I ordered two, I plan to get more. And, for those of us who have a Dremel or similar, look to the left at the bottom of the machine tool list where the show garage sale specials. They offer quality made, German burrs at some decent prices. Don't let the generic picture fool you, the two I ordered to try are top quality with finer teeth than illustrated. Here, https://www.a2zcorp.us/store/Category.asp?Cguid={ED2BE7DF-D7D9-4E52-B1FE-29DCDE6A9870}&Category=Specials%3AGarage+Sale+3 about 2/3rds down are round burrs in sizes useful to us. PS, For some reason, the links don't work, so just copy and paste. [/quote] Nice finds. Looks like a pretty good site for tools. They even have model airplane stuff. I fixed the links for you. [link=http://www.a2zcorp.us/store/Category.asp?Cguid={CF7BE930-4855-4B47-AB82-7F830E857994}&Category=ModelTools%3ANeedleCap%5FBottle]Bottle[/link] [link=http://www.a2zcorp.us/store/Category.asp?Cguid={ED2BE7DF-D7D9-4E52-B1FE-29DCDE6A9870}&Category=Specials%3AGarage+Sale+3]Burrs[/link]
Posted on: 8/27/2009 5:56 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9050161
2009 Nontest Entry - Cygnet
I've been doing a lot of float flying lately and have even started a new float fly club named the Silverdale Puddlejumpers, so I'll be doing a little seaplane for my nontest entry. This one's for .020 to .049 - I'll be making a little brushless outrunner for it. Here's the first drawing. I have a few details to work out like the engine pod design and wing floats, but you get the general idea.
Posted on: 8/27/2009 5:45 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9050144
RE: My first nitro plane
Congratulations, it sure looks like you enjoyed yourself. I was worried that you'd trip while dancing and fall on the plane. [;)] MAAC insurance no longer covers you unless you are flying at a MAAC site or a MAAC sanctioned event. Find a good club and you'll enjoy the hobby even more.
Posted on: 8/17/2009 1:30 AM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9021954
RE: 2009 Design Nontest
Darn, I guess the airboat is out then.
Posted on: 7/26/2009 3:29 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8965309
RE: 2009 Design Nontest
[quote]ORIGINAL: Remby forsakenrider; Look into Sig's website, they have AAA Castor. Question about the Notest, will the ''model'' have to fly? [/quote] Looking at the rules it appears that flight is not a requirement.
Posted on: 7/22/2009 4:43 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8955302
RE: nontest 09 FW190 build
Very nicely done. It's cool to see alternative building methods/materials.
Posted on: 7/21/2009 11:26 PM by Author "Bipe Flyer"
in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8953577
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