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RE: Setting motor position
Thanks Jester I will be hoping it fly's OK! Fingers crossed. But will soon see once airborne. I am thinking of having some one more experienced stand with me to get an idea on checking. Just have limited people to ask as I fly Mode2 while most of the club fly Mode1. Ya get that at times though. lol I only have a rough idea to the CofG as no instructions came with it. Guy I got it from said that the CofG on this is at the carbonfibre wing joiner. I have looked at Hangar 9 instructions and this would be around the same place so this will be a bit of trial and error as well. Thanks for any advice as always appreciated. Regards Greg
Posted on: 9/13/2012 2:53 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226969
RE: Setting motor position
Yep going to put larger triangle stock in a few different places and also going to put a strip of fibreglass bandage around the box to hold it togeather. Have already drilled 8 holes and glued tooth picks in with epoxy to help hold the motor mount in to the box section. Will post a pick once I have finished working on the motor mount.
Posted on: 9/12/2012 4:13 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225900
RE: Electric fuel pump for gas
Hi Hircflyer I am just in the process of building a fueling station at present. Just bought a Fuel Pump DA this arvo and a Du-Bro fuel cap/prob. The fuel pump has instructions on how to wire up apparently. I have not opened yet. I am going away for the week end but when I get back I will look at the instructions and if they are usefull I will scan and post for you. I will put some pics on of the pump and fueler. Regards Greg[;)]
Posted on: 8/31/2012 2:07 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212363
RE: Setting motor position
[color=#0033FF]Thanks acerc Never thought of that. Went straight out put 2 4mm washers under the mount and put the cowl back on and its now near perfect. This is a big [size=3]thank you[/size] for your reply it really made my day. Regards Greg [/color] [:)]
Posted on: 8/30/2012 3:17 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211275
RE: Setting motor position
[image]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/Funtana%2050/100_2255.jpg[/image] [image]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/Funtana%2050/100_2258.jpg[/image] [image]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/Funtana%2050/100_2261.jpg[/image] [image]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/Funtana%2050/100_2262.jpg[/image] [image]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/Funtana%2050/100_2264.jpg[/image] [image]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/Funtana%2050/100_2263.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 8/29/2012 1:01 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209955
RE: Setting motor position
Some pics of the motormount and motor mounted. [image]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/Funtana%2050/100_2254.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 8/29/2012 12:57 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209953
RE: Setting motor position
Will do tomorrow nite. regards Greg
Posted on: 8/28/2012 6:27 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208847
Motor setting
I am building a Funtana 50 Diamond brand (not hanger 9) there was no instructions with it so not a great problem. I looked at the hanger 9 50 and 90 funtana to get an idea and then make do. Looks more like the same as the funtana 90 build then 50. I mounted the motor side ways as the head will sit inside the cowl and have bought a pitts for my AX55 so will only have a hole in the bottom of the cowl. I lined the motor up with the cross markings on the fire wall. and the engine mounts are at the top of the box section. The cowl is not the straightest and has to be worked on to the fuse. Problem. When the cowl is on and spinner on the motor you can not get the front end of the cowl straignt in line with the spinner. The cowl appears to be facing down slightly. To get the cowl straight and spinner lined up straight the motor would have to be moved up about 5mm As I am at the top this can't happen unless I build up on top of the mount to be able to move the motor up. This is the question. Will this affect the whole plane set up if the center line of the motor is moved up. I have tried mounting the motor inverted and still have the same problem. Or should I just bodge the cowl to fit. Thanks for your thoughts Greg
Posted on: 8/28/2012 4:53 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208759
Setting motor position
I am building a Funtana 50 Diamond brand (not hanger 9) there was no instructions with it so not a great problem. I looked at the hanger 9 50 and 90 funtana to get an idea and then make do. Looks more like the same as the funtana 90 build then 50. I mounted the motor side ways as the head will sit inside the cowl and have bought a pitts for my AX55 so will only have a hole in the bottom of the cowl. I lined the motor up with the cross markings on the fire wall. and the engine mounts are at the top of the box section. The cowl is not the straightest and has to be worked on to the fuse. Problem. When the cowl is on and spinner on the motor you can not get the front end of the cowl straignt in line with the spinner. The cowl appears to be facing down slightly. To get the cowl straight and spinner lined up straight the motor would have to be moved up about 5mm As I am at the top this can't happen unless I build up on top of the mount to be able to move the motor up. This is the question. Will this affect the whole plane set up if the center line of the motor is moved up. I have tried mounting the motor inverted and still have the same problem. Or should I just bodge the cowl to fit. Thanks for your thoughts Greg
Posted on: 8/28/2012 4:44 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208753
RE: 8FG Super Servo Slow?
ozzieflyer I have sent U a email with some links. Regards Greg
Posted on: 6/20/2012 2:08 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11124790
RE: 8FG Super Servo Slow?
Thanks Bill. I have actually found out how to do slow flaps using a FG8. Regards Greg
Posted on: 6/19/2012 4:00 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11123456
8FG Super Servo Slow?
Hi Looking at buying a 8FG Super. Thought it did not have Servo Slow for Flaps but some one implied it does? Can you confirm if it has a servo slow function. Thanks Greg
Posted on: 6/17/2012 4:27 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11120935
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][size=3][font="Tahoma"]Hi TAS Flyer I printed out the diagram of the engine then photocopied to the correct size. then stuck sides and top together to get an Idea of size. Looks like it will fit OK. May need to cut a bit out of the bottom of the cowl for the plug and lead. I am buying a baffled Pitts with it. Friend is going to buy the same motor for a different project so we are going to order at the same time. So probably end of June I should have it. Going to get them from http://www.wolfmodels.net/DLE-20.html as the cheapest I have seen and he runs the motor before sending and U get a opto ignition kill switch and spinner nut included. Also hear is the muffler http://www.wolfmodels.net/Canisters.html cheap as well. We are only about an hour or so away so we are going out to pick the stuff up. I may reinforce part of the cowl where I have to cut with some more glass cloth as it looks fairly thin. I bought my metal gear servos from there as well. I am using the same servos for Rudder in other plane and they seem good. Bit noisy but they are metal gears. Opened one up and they seem to have enough electro grease in the gears. http://www.wolfmodels.net/servo,switch.html Let me know how U go. Regards Greg[/font][/size][/color]
Posted on: 5/16/2012 5:38 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11082790
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][size=4]Hi Mercer She is on hold at present. Ready to have the engine and batteries. I had my Tiger 60 go in the drink and lost the lot so had to replace it 1st. Finally got everything for it and maidened it a couple of weeks ago. Was pretty nervous about the 1st flight. Also picked up a FMS T28 Trojan from ebay and pick up from Xtreme. Got for $241 and they sell in the same shop $370 so was a pretty good saving. I am saving for the motor at present but am still leaning towards a DLE20. The other guy at the club who bought his the week before mine has not started yet at all. Been so busy this year. He is now thinking of putting a ASP120FS in it. Told him yours fly's well with a 120FS engine. I hope to have mine finished by November as I am on holidays then and would be good to pick some nice days to fly her. Our field has a constant breeze most of the time so good for take offs and landings till it goes to gail force or blows cross the strip but has been good flying in these conditions. Glad U are enjoying flying yours I am looking forward to seeing the 2 at our club up at the same time. Thanks for your interest. Regards Greg PS I will post some pics when I get the engine and install[/size].[/color]
Posted on: 4/18/2012 1:24 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11046744
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
Hi Darjen U don't need a servo reverse just a Y lead unless U have spare channels. The Flap servos go in same direction each wing so they just work on the Y-lead. I also use a Y-lead for Ailerons and I did not program flaperons. That way I can use the 3 position switch on the flaps and I think it was aux 1 on RX and I am using 2 channels for the 2 Elevator and the gear channel will have my opto kill for the petrol motor. Regards Greg
Posted on: 1/13/2012 12:25 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10906363
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][size=3]Hi Mercer. Checked my wheel postilion and all looks good. Just another question 4 U. With the pitot tube in the outer wing. Did U fix use permanently or do U just push it in before flying. Looks like could be a real nightmare for carting around. [/size][/color]
Posted on: 12/29/2011 3:12 PM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10881830
RE: TF Giant scale P47, a different type of group build..
[color=#0000FF][size=3]Have U looked at the Lado retracts http://www.austars-model.com/display.php?page=2&ids=LADO%20Retracts May be an alternative 4 U[/size].[/color]
Posted on: 12/28/2011 11:49 PM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10880750
RE: Seagull Spacewalker II 120 Arf
[color=#0000FF][size=3][font="Tahoma"]Just a thought on your tank. I was going to buy a SW but ended up with a PT19. I looked at the SW a lot though and I was going to make a bracket for the tank to sit on and then make it so it could so to speak clip in to position. This way the wing bolts can be accessed easily and then just clip the tank down. U could do it the same way as a canopy is held on. Use a dowel or something at the front and a canopy latch to lock it in at the back. The other option would be using Velcro to hold the tank in and then U undo the Velcro you can lift the tank up to get your hand in underneath. Just glue a raised bit of wood on the floor so can threat a Velcro through. Sit your tank on some padding do the Velcro up and locked in. Undo Velcro lift tank and get to screws. The PT is different so don't have this prob now.[/font][/size][/color]
Posted on: 12/28/2011 11:36 PM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10880740
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][size=3][font="Tahoma"]I have fitted my pilot bases and dash boards now. I cut out a lot of the wood around the side and on top where the pilots sit to reduce a bit of weight. In the front cockpit I have the Fuel dot and in the back I have the 2 JR D switches as a redundancy if one of them fail. I was going to run two 1200mAh Life batteries but they seem out of stock for a while so will probably go back to my original idea of one 2600 Life with deans connector with a deans to two JR extension. One to each switch. I painted the side rails in the cockpit and back the same blue as the fuse and the rest mat black. The switch box is held in with a 2mm socket head that goes in to a T-Nut. I made the box as the servos sit under this area and the switches would not fit so now they sit in the cockpit area and only the cables run under the Elevator servos. [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11016.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11017.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11018.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11019.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11021.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11020.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11022.jpg[/IMG] I have not glued the pilots in yet while still working on it. The pilots , windshields and the rollover bar will be some of the last things added. Hopefully will have my engine by Feb. I am in now rush at present so just plod along with this. On holidays at present which is why I have done so much recently. Will post some more once get further along. I have also rethought my tank holding procedure and won't be using the bracket I made. Used more of the KISS principle, Now will be same place but lighter and easier to install. [/font][/size][/color]
Posted on: 12/18/2011 5:04 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10864657
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][size=3][font="Tahoma"]The Strut fairings show to cut a section out on the side to go over the strut but I decided to carve a tunnel in the wood piece so it goes over the wire and hides it. One of the reasons I made an effort to have the wire as low and flat to the wing. This is a pic of the tunnel [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11010.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11009.jpg[/IMG] This pic shows how the fairing sits on the wing [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11011.jpg[/IMG] When I actually installed the gear for good I left the struts off and fitted the wire in to the wing and screwed down with the plastic clamps. This made it easy to get a good straight drive down on the screws into the wing. I also undid the top link of the plastic scissor so could fold down towards the Tyre. The reason for this is so when you slide the fairing over the strut you can slide it right up to the Tyre and this gives a lot of room to then push the strut on to the gear wire and line up correct then re tighten the 3 grub screws on each strut to lock in place(with blue lock-tight) then the fairings simple slide in to position and you can then bolt the scissor back on. (i hate Phillip head screws and really dislike little ones. I replaced the crappy 2mm machine screw with a 2mm socket head bolt. The original screw was 9mm long so I used a 10mm socket head.) These pics show finished. I have also painted all the bolt / screw heads the same colour as the wing. If you see one of the previous pics you can see all the screws for the flaps and the socket head screws I used to holde the servo panels in the wing. They are much less noticeable now. I also painted where the wire goes in to the wing. [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11025.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11023.jpg[/IMG] [/font][/size][/color]
Posted on: 12/18/2011 4:44 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10864641
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][size=3][font="Tahoma"]Got some more done and some more pics of it today. Looks like I got a Friday arvo special on one of my wing panels. The Flap had a large bow in the middle which I clamped for 24 hours to get the thing fairly straight. Also the control horn hole in the Aileron on the same wing was drilled forward and to one side so that you could not get either end to line up. Redrilled with a 3mm drill to make the hole straight. The flap hinges cause the flaps to lift at the rear but if you put spacers under the back 2holes of the hinge that screws to the wing itself you can have the other side of the hinge that screws to the flap to sit correctley and remove most of the gap when the hinge is closed. Below is a couple of pics of the landing gear mount in the wing. [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11001.jpg[/IMG] This pic shows that I have beveled the edge of the hole to around 45degree so that when the landing gear slides in it doesn't sit up on this ledge where the wire is bent at 90degree (so matches the radius curve of the bend) Also created a bit of a furrow along the the gap so the gear sits a bit more in the wing. Coated all with Thin CA to streangthen the wood and hole. [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11003.jpg[/IMG] The wire I took out of the struts as they were not bent correct. This also allowed me to get both the same shape and easier to set up the mounting straps. [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11005.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/LearntheBasicsFlyingP11007.jpg[/IMG] [/font][/size][/color]
Posted on: 12/18/2011 4:22 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10864624
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][size=3][font="Tahoma"]Hi Mercer Thanks for the continuing flight reports. [8D] Sorry to hear about the cartwheel. Can't imagine the thought as it all happened in front of you. Good to hear it may be a hearty soul and take the occasional knock. Keep the flight info coming. I am still slowly working on mine and will post some more picks once I finish the cockpit area with my switches and fuel dot in place. Regards Greg[/font][/size][/color]
Posted on: 12/12/2011 1:06 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10855334
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][font="Tahoma"][size=3]Hi darjen38 I bought my pilots on ebay. They come in 2 sizes and I bought the larger. See attached pic. [IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff263/iam_BlackDragon/PT-19/Austars1comparrison.jpg[/IMG] Bought 1 US and 1 British. Regards Greg[/size][/font][/color]
Posted on: 12/11/2011 1:04 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10853845
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][size=3][font="Tahoma"]Hey darjen38 Congrats on getting the PT19. Mercer Interesting info on the ailerons. Just so I have it in my head. Both ailerons will be up about 4mm either side rather than inline with the wing. Never heard that before. Sounds interesting. Still slowly doing bits for mine. I am going to run dual JR Gold D switches for the RX and have made a removable box that drops into the rear cockpit and bolts down for the switches to sit at the same level as the side bearers. I did this as there was not much room under the 2nd cockpit due to the servo tray. The box section will be bolted in so can be removed if ever need to. I am thinking of running dual 1200 MA LiFeP04 Self Balancing Receiver Batteries and a Ignition Battery Eliminator & Kill Switch. I have most of the stuff I need now but still need to get the DLE20 and Pits muffler and couple of Hawk C-1 props. Also need the batteries but they are out of stock at present so probally won't be getting the rest of the stuff till the new year now, I will post some more pics when I get some more done. Have a great Christmas Regards Greg[/font][/size][/color]
Posted on: 12/1/2011 2:45 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10837650
RE: Seagull Spacewalker II 120 Arf
[quote]ORIGINAL: phakur Has anyone used a DLE 20 with this plane? I am concerned about sufficient power as it seems most folks have used at least a 26 cc engine. Trying to choose between a Pulse 125 which is lighter by a couple of pounds and the Spacewalker 2. Thanks- Larry [/quote] [color=#0033FF] [font="Tahoma"][size=3]Hi Larry I am going to put a DLE-20 in my Seagull PT-19 2mrtre span. From what I have read the DLE-20 has as much or more power than a Satio 125 and lighter than most 26cc gas and also more power out put as well. Through in that it can be beam mounted like a normal engine and I can't see (imo) what else you would want. You can then also use a smaller tank and place it anywhere you want. I am putting a 10cc tank in mine. Hope this helps Greg[/size][[/font]/color]
Posted on: 11/2/2011 1:10 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10793131
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][font="Tahoma"][size=3]Hi Neuhausr Thanks for the complement. Am trying to make it look as good as a sport scale PT19 can. Still working on the flaps to get them sorted out. Will be happy when I can afford my motor so I can get the front end sorted. Would be great to be able to go up in the plane, Just to see one would be nice. Regards Greg[/size][/font][/color]
Posted on: 10/14/2011 3:05 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10764565
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][font="Tahoma"][size=3]Mercer Thanks for the flight reports much appreciated. Hope U have many more flights. Regards Greg[/size][/font][/color]
Posted on: 10/14/2011 2:48 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10764559
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][font="Tahoma"][size=3]Removed the Flap hinges today to drop some super glue in the holes. Did not number the which hinge was where and when put back on the Gap was even worse then before.I have taken them all off again and will have to start from scratch again. Bit of a pain but once sorted should not have to remove again. Mercer I also noticed U did not attach the long aerial? was there any particular reason?[/size][/font][/color]
Posted on: 10/9/2011 4:00 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10755818
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0033FF][font="Tahoma"][size=3]Hi Mercer I attached the Flap hinges to the wing today but they would not close properly at the trailing edge and stayed open a bit, I spent about 2 hours trying different things to close the gap up and found that by placing a thin piece of cardboard under all the 6 hinge points the trailing edge was almost completely closed. Was as good as the flap just sitting there before attached. Once a bit of servo pressure was on the horn then almost completely closed along the whole length. I am going to cut some plastic that is the same thickness and glue to the bottom of the hinges before screwing back on. I have also been counter sinking the screw holes on the hinges so the screws sit in to the hinge rather than sit on top of the hinge done 3 holes at present. But also thought about changing the screws to a flat base style rather than the taper the little brass screws have. Considering hex head servo screws and painting the same colour as the flaps hinges. Easier also to get that exact pressure and also easier to undo if ever need be. Will post a pic of the mod once I have finished.[/size][/font][/color]
Posted on: 10/8/2011 4:48 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10754343
RE: Seagull 1.20 PT-19
[color=#0000FF][size=3][font="Tahoma"]Hi Mercer Your plane looks great. Hard to judge the size till you see someone holding. It looks a lot bigger when its all together than in bits. Looks like your struts are on the wrong way as the linkage should be at the back not the front. Regards Greg[/font][/size][/color]
Posted on: 10/5/2011 3:47 AM by Author "BlackPhantomDragon"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10749407
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