RE: ESM F6F Hellcat Info?
Hay Bubba John, I managed to get a good first coat onto the fuselage and cowl. I used just under 200ml of thinned paint on both parts and no runs ! The sun came out early and we had a light breeze too. I used my neighbors garage, hung the fuselage and set up a new system for my spray painting. I now use two water separators in line, one at the compressor and one at the gun, with two regulators..one set at 50# and the second at 25#. I am using a gravity fed spray gun and I can set the spray pattern easily for what I need. Its a detail gun really, a small one, but a very good one too. It took about an hour & one half to do the spray work and clean up the gun. I'll let the model dry for a few hours and lay on a second light coat. I will clean up around the elevator and rudder with my air brush...and that will detail out the control gaps I now have with the tail feathers. I can't wait to get my stencils from Vikie and finish off the fuselage. I will start reinstalling the Sierra retracts tonight. I will use 440 Allen-head bolts and blind nuts, with flat and lock washers. I will need to rout my air lines, make a support for my air tank-valve and servo. I'm also installing the Robart low air pressure fail safe unit and new control horns...again, Robarts. I want to get this all done so I can paint my wing, early this week. I really want to stay with the PTE 36cc gas engine. My model is set up for it now and this engine is as strong or stronger (depending on who you talk to) the DLE 35R. The PTE 36cc is a very strong engine and is noted for its smooth transition from idle to full power. I club member has one and he hands starts his, ever time he flies. I've seen the DLE 30 and 35R run...and these are first rate engines too. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 5/19/2013 5:24 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516473

RE: ESM F6F Hellcat Info?
Hay Bubba John, I'm returning the PTE to TBM and it was over a conversation I had with Jeff there at TBM and my good buddy in Reno. It sounded like TBM knew of the issues with the engine prior to shipping it out...and said nothing to me about it. At first I didn't think much about it...but my good buddy in Reno made me re-evaluate my thoughts about this. The engine box was opened and it didn't come with the usual PTE box. So I'm not sure if the engine was sold prior or what...but it was the last PTE engine TBM had in stock. There is a good chance nothing is wrong with the engine internally and it may be a perfect engine otherwise, but I did pay full price and deserve a new engine...not a repaired unit. If I was told prior to receiving the engine, of the issues and had a chance to talk to them prior to them selling me the engine, I may have had no issues, even with the repairs done to the cylinder. But after the sale to find out...kind of set uneasy with me. I have removed the engine and re-boxed it. Since I didn't run the engine or fly it and all I did is mount it onto the airframe, I expect them to accept it back. I've requested a full refund. I'm looking at the Twin 40cc RCGF, the PTE 36cc and the DLE35R. The twin 40cc will fit accept for the spark plug caps...and it weights in at 63.4 oz. (less lead and more power) and can swing a 20x8~10 two bladed prop...and 18x10 three bladed prop, with authority. I have a lot of experience with the RCG and RCGF 20cc engines and these are powerful motors for their size, swinging a Xoar 17x6 @ 8900~9000 RPM. I'm leaning to the Twin 40cc engine, but I will have no issues with any of the engines I'm looking at to power my F6F. I wrote a letter to Sierra and sent them their shipping funds...plus a few bucks for a cool one, at the local pup. They did me good and didn't charge me for the inspection, so the least I could do is send a few bucks more for the outstanding customer service they gave me. Its time for me to get off the computer and go paint my fuselage. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 5/19/2013 1:31 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516267

RE: ESM F6F Hellcat Info?
Hi Guys, My Sierra retracts came in today's mail...and I need to refund his shipping cost. He didn't charge me for any work done...and it looks like he took them apart, oiled every thing, to include my pneumatic valve too. That was way cool and I do appreciate the work done. These are very strong, well built and work flawlessly. I'm into painting my fuselage...and it now has a light dusting of primer. There is still some final sanding to do, then I'll paint. I would have painted the dark blue by now...but we have had passing rain showers all day, the humidity has on a roller coaster. If the sun pops tomorrow...I'll get the first coat on the fuse and cowl. I'm using Davo "Regency" water based interior house paint. Its amazing how it lays down and smooth's out. I can get it by the quart, in any color I want...its not cheap, but the outcome is very nice. Vikie should have received my funds by now, and I'm looking forward to finish painting the model. Her stencils are going to make this model pop... : )...and I am going to paint on the white arrows, large numbers and both the stars and bar insignia. The smaller numbers and kill markings will be slide off decals. I've now got the wing to finish... : ) I found another issue with the PTE 36cc engine I received from Troy and after some thought, I'm going to send it back to Troy and ask for a refund. I'll go with either a new PTE 36 or DLE 35R, but I'm waiting to see what Troy does with the return first. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 5/18/2013 11:11 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515750

RE: ESM F6F Hellcat Info?
Hay Bubba John, I too have always heard that Sierra Giant Scale where top notch folks. I'm a patient man and will send another e-mail out on Monday and try call again. Now to the PTE turning a 18" 3 blade prop...it might if the pitch is a 6 or 7. The Solo hub is adjustable...so we will see. I'm not sure if a 18x6-3 bladed prop will fly the F6F...but I'll experiment to find out. I've not heard from Solo yet, and they do not list an adapter for the PTE 36...but I asked them if they would cut me one. Started filling in the imperfections with my fuselage today...and will sand tomorrow and maybe paint this week end...at least the base blue and underside lighter blue. Then onto the wing with the same paint. If I have not received word from Sierra by the time my wing is done...and the stencils from Vikie are painted on the model...I'll deal with either buying the electric retracts or go with Robarts. Its kind of disappointing not to hear from them...but I'm going to need at least a weeks more work, before I will need to make some kind of a decision on the retracts. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 5/15/2013 11:52 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512885

RE: ESM F6F Hellcat Info?
Hay Bubba John, I have called Sierra Giant Scale a couple of times now about my retracts and also sent them several e-mails, with out any answers. I was told my retracts were on the way back...but never received them. I wonder if he is on vacation or...? I would love to receive my retracts back. I kept the gear legs and wheels here with me and only sent the pneumatic units into him. I sent him my retracts on April 8th and he has had them for five weeks now. I also sent an e-mail to Solo Props. Since I have a three bladed hub of theirs, I wanted to know if he had an adapter for a PTE 36 and if so, that I wanted three black blades with yellow tips-18" long. The dome of the Solo Prop three bladed hub is the same size as the one that I purchased for my engine. It would make an awesome show prop. I'm now working on the fuselage and getting it ready to paint. It will be painted this week... : ) Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 5/14/2013 10:56 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11511958

RE: 3 blade prop for a RCG 20 cc gas engine?
Hi Guys, Thanks for the information...I'm ordering M.A. 15x7 props and see how they pull. And your correct, there are not many 3 bladed props sold today. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 9/12/2012 10:13 AM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226227

3 blade prop for a RCG 20 cc gas engine?
I'm now breaking in two RGC 20cc gas engines on a Big Stick...and getting them ready install on a F7F from Troy Built models. I would like to go scale with the props and use three bladed props. I'm now using 17x6 props with excellent results and want to know what size three bladed props I should use. Would a 16x7 or 15x8~10 work ? I know I'm am supose to drop one to two inches in prop length and add one to two inches of pitch...but has anyone any experience with the RGC 20cc gas engine and three bladed props ? If so ... pleased let me know what you recomend. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 9/11/2012 6:25 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225603

RE: RCG 20cc question...
Hi Guys, I've now more then 20 flights on my Ugly Stick and I'm very impressed with the engine/airframe combination. It has more excess power then I had ever dreamed of and the model has great vertical. I did run into a couple of problems with the model, and one that got my attention yesterday was the wings forward hold down plywood. The wing is held down with two plastic screws on the rear of the wing and plywood on the leading edge of the wing, to hold the wing on to the fuse. As I stated the engine does vibrate a bit, and all the vibration has caused the forward wing plywood hold down, to ware a notch into that plywood piece. The fix for me will be thin brass sheet over and around the plywood notch and wing seating tape, placed on the first 1/3 of the wing seat forward part. I've yet to do the fix, but it will get done before I fly. The fus. plywood forward bulkhead seems to be ok and I plan on installing a nice aircraft grade plywood doubler here. I've got the engine purring and its quite strong. The 17 x 6 prop is an excellent choice, even though several men in our club are running 16 x 6 props on their DLE 20's. But I'm getting 8600 rpm with a Xoar 17 x 6 and I do want to keep the prop under 9K, I'll keep with the 17 x 6 props. I changed out my 6 oz. fuel tank to an 14 oz. RotoFlow tank. No reason to do so...the 6 oz. tank worked just fine but now I can fly for 20 minutes if needed, with reserve. My next scale bird wil be the 7F7 and I'll run two 20cc engines and these tanks. The bracing wires have come loose from the little clips I soldered on the tail feathers...I must have cold soldered them, but now hold firm. Great model...great help from all of you. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 9/2/2012 10:33 AM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11214543

RE: What Aircraft are you installing your DLE20
plaurence, Tower sells the tail wheel assy. in three different sizes and work great. Bob
Posted on: 8/20/2012 9:16 AM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199685

RE: RCG 20cc question...
Hay plaurence, There are several outlets that stock them and I got mine from Troy Built Models, but Tower sells it too. Bob
Posted on: 8/19/2012 9:47 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199318

RE: RCG 20cc question...
...but its really sweet. Again...thank you guys for all your advice and help, Bob
Posted on: 8/18/2012 10:13 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198356

RE: Sepulveda Basin
for the memories... Bob
Posted on: 8/18/2012 9:52 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198349

RE: What Aircraft are you installing your DLE20
Hi Guys, Well today, I managed to get three flights on my Big Stick... : ) I started out using a JXF 17x6 prop and was getting a little more then 8000 rpm. The model flew great...right out of the box and I only needed a couple of clicks of right aileron and she was flying very nice. The vertical was some thing to witness...for it went vertical as fast as it went straight and level. Take offs were a non issue...and it was airborn in less then 1/3 throttle. The first take off roll was in 8~10kts of wind, and it was rock solid and I didn't hit full throttle until I pointed the nose vertical. Landings are so simple it almost lands itself, but Ugly Sticks are known for this and why I have always had a soft spot for these models. No engine issues and this RGC 20cc engine purred. On the third flight I switched to a Xoar 17x6 from the JXF. I now managed to get a solid 8600 RPM and a real kick in the butt in performance. I was astounded at the improvement in power and vertical presintation. WOW...hot dog...this model smokes... : ) The 17x6 Xoar plain wood prop is the prop for me and this airframe/engine combination. I placed two thin washers on the left side of my engine mount to give me a little right thrust...and this worked out almost perfect for me. 9lbs. x 16 oz. = 144 oz. 1000 sq. inches / 144 sq. inches = 6.94 sq. feet 144 oz. / 6.94 sq. ft. = 20.749 oz./sq. ft. wing loading Wind 10+ kts NE Sea Level 29.97 75 F. 74% humidity This model is almost a glider and has a real light wing loading. This model has more wing area then all the other Ugly Sticks made for 20cc engines...! It will glide well but in winds it acted more like a biplane then a monoplane. Not much penitration in 10+ not winds, but the longer landing gear and Robart wheels made landings easy. The winds started out at less then 10 kts. but ended up at 18kts with gusts to 24kts+. Yet the model handled it quit well and if fact, was so solid in the air, I must have done more then 20 touch and goes. in the three flights I had (even in the higher winds). The winds were gusty too, but no problem for me. Yes...I'm an old Ugly Stick flyer and I've built and flown a couple of dozen Ugly Sticks in my time, but this one really has power...real power. A 15cc gaser would be more then enough engine for this model...and the 20cc gas engine makes this model a monster... : ) This model has a 66.5" wing span and at 9#'s the heavest Ugly Stick I've ever assembled. I didn't reinforce my fire wall, but so far...no issues with this...but I'm checking every flight, both the fire wall and the tail section where my repair was made. I added a fuel dot last night and my last modification to the model. She flys folks...boy does she fly. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/18/2012 5:43 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198182

RE: What Aircraft are you installing your DLE20
Hay Nalby, I do not believe you would be able to get the reinforment wood into the insides do to the bulkheads that are back there. If I ever build another, or just build my own fuse, I would take off the covering and do it on the out side. At least this way you can get a good connection with the main fuse sides, with your glue. Its a bit difficult to do on the inside. I would use a good 6" long piece of 1/64 ply on the top, bottom and both sides. If you make it a tail dragger, then make a nice long support bracket for your tail wheel assy. that goes forward of the leading edge of the stab...3". I get a good 9k rpm with my 17x6 prop...and I just may have a strong 20cc engine, but this engine pulls this model hard...very hard. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/16/2012 9:56 AM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195823

RE: What Aircraft are you installing your DLE20
Hay Andy, I was surprised to, to find the cracks and looked to see what may have created this issue with the model. My first Big Stick was built much more robust then this one was. My Ultra Stick .40 was built better then this ARF and with you having the same issue with yours, maybe this is a weak spot on this ARF. I just don't know, but I will be calling Tower about this tomorrow. They answered my e-mail and they know I had a problem. I have been buying from Tower for over 25 years and really good folks to work with. I just wonder how many other folks had this happen to them ? I too, love to go into straight dives, with full power. My Ultra Stick was abused for years this way...and lived a long time . Then one day a bush jumped up and grabbed my model, just as I pulled out of a steep, full power dive (god bless I hate it when this happens). The sound it makes going through that bush, was unmistakeable. All that came out of that bush was the fuse...minus the stab and rudder, landing gear, prop, engine muffler and the wings sheared off even with the fuse on each side, with the center part w/hold down screws, intact. Wow....a good one for sure...and the fuse flew a good 75 ' down the runway. I had that model for over five years...but nothing is forever. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/15/2012 11:14 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195368

RE: What Aircraft are you installing your DLE20
Hay Nalby and RCPlanman, Here are the pictures of the crack that formed on my model and something you will need to watch for on yours. The balsa on my ARF was a bit softer then I like, but how it came to me. I did write Tower Hobbies a letter about it and sent them pictures. I didn't want a new fuse, just wanted to give them a heads up on what happened on my model. The crack fromed from where the exit holes are for the rudder and elevator pushrods...all around the sides, to include the bottom. All that was holding the tail on, was the top fuse balsa...and it was not to my liking, being so soft. I usually build my Ugly Sticks and I use med. to med. hard balsa for my builds. But my fix was light and strong, using slow cure CA and high quality 1/64th. ply. I love the stuff and use it in many places that need a little additional strength. If you look at the pictures and the blue line...this is where the crack formed on my model. I covered the 1/64th. ply with Varithane (water based) for fuel proofing. I also made a plate under the stab to support the tail wheel assy. I used 1/8" light ply for this...but next time, I'll make it a good 3" longer and not stop at the leading edge of the stab like I did on this model. Don't worry about weight in the tail...with a 29 oz. engine...your going to be nose heavy. Make sure you have no metal to metal contract on your model. Your engine servo should have either a nyrod connection or use a ball link to hook it up...best is to use both. I also made a manual choke push/pull wire for my model. You push on for full choke...pull out for choke off. I installed the electronic engine RPM guage and a ignition battery volt meter. Lights on...mags hot. I also installed a dual switch for the model (one each for the ignition and receiver) and a volt meter for the receiver on the port side of the model. I also used two 2000ma. nickle batteries, placed as far aft as I could and made a hatch on the bottom, for them. The hatch cover for the two batteries was made from a good grade of aircraft plywood...just like the nose hatch. I use HD6001 servo's all around, accept on my engine...that servo is a 94322 Airtonics unit. I was not able to fly today...and I really want to fly this bird. It has over 12# of thrust on a 9# model...so its going to vertical with a vengence. I pray its not so windy tomorrow...but we will see, for summers here bring higher trade winds and makes flying a bit difficult. I'll fly in 15kt winds...but not with a new model. Once I know how she flies and comfortable with it...I'll fly in higher winds. My old ugly stick flew in 15~20kt winds all the time and it was a .61 powered .40 size Ultra Stick. This was a great flying model, I had it for over five years and well over 600 flights. I wore out two engines on it and broke in five, for other models. I've two gas engines to brake in on this airframe...and may use the engines in a gas powered twin. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/15/2012 11:14 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195049

RE: What Aircraft are you installing your DLE20
Hay Jim and RCPlanman, I made several mods to my model and one needed beef up to the tail. First I put in a hatch forward of the leading edge of the wing (on top), this was to get access to that part of the nose, to put in my electronic ignition, throttle servo and on/off switch. I used aircraft grade plywood for my hatch cover, for the balsa was way to soft for my liking. Next I installed the landing gear from the Big Stick gas powered model, the 80" version (cost under $20.00 at Tower), for good prop clearence, using 17" props. Your going to need to do this or use other longer landing gear legs then the .60~.90 version gives you in the kit. I made mine a tail dragger...so I installed a heavyer type tail wheel assy, and installed a 1/4" lite ply floor from the foward bulkhead where the front of the wing plugs into, to almost the center wing bulkhead...as a doubler for added strength. My fuel tank is under the wing, right on the CG...240cc-this will give you 15+ minutes of flight. I also used a DuBro anti-vibration engine mount, the 1.20 size...but I'm not sure this was a good idea. I will use a standard engine mount the next time...for this beast vibrates quite a bit. I used 4" wheels and I always install large wheels on my models, due to the trade winds we get here at our flying field. I used Robart scale wheels, with the foam inserts. I like Robart wheels, because they grip the black top the best...much better then any foam tires I've ever tried and they last much longer then the foam type. Both elevator and rudder servo's were placed aft near the tail, one on each side with a 1/8" light ply plate, to support the servo's. I also used 4/40 wires for control rods for all controls. I side mounted the engine, and a home made exit pipe out of one 3/4" copper pipe 90 deg. elbo and a short piece of pipe, for exhaust exit under the model. I had to cut the exhaust exit pipe first, then clamped the extention onto my engine exhaust. I do not like inverted engines...hit hard once and you will cause damage to your engine head and spark plug, so I just side mounted my engine, just like I mount my glow engines. Worked like a charm... : ) I test ran my engine first, with the wing off the model. DO NOT DO THIS...always run the engine with the wing attached. I formed one long crack on the tail, right forward of the leading edge of the stab, up both sides to the exit holes for the control rods-the kit had soft balsa in this area, to soft for all the shaking a two stroke gas engine makes. I needed to make a repair here with Slow Cure CA and 1/64th. quality plywood. I also installed bracing wires on the tail. I also installed two drain holes, using eyelets, on the fuel tank floor. If I ever develope a leak to my fuel tank, the fuel will flow out here and not fuel soak the model. I also CA'd the inside of my model with thin CA, to fuel proof and make the soft balsa used to build my model more strong. The model has a huge wing and even with all the mods and 20cc engine the model came out to a little over 9#'s. I made no mods to the wing...its a stout wing and with nearly 1000 sq. inches, lots of lift here. I am using flaperons on my model too...good for real short take offs and landings. I hope this helps you guys...and I'm still waiting to maiden my model. The winds have been way to high to fly...so waiting for a good day to test fly. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/15/2012 9:01 AM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194334

RE: What Aircraft are you installing your DLE20
Big Stick .60~.90, with larger landing gear from the Big Stick gas ARF and DuBro scale tail wheel assy. Bob
Posted on: 8/14/2012 4:09 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193567

RE: RCG 20cc question...
Hi Guys, The wind was up to 18kts, gusting to 27kts by noon. I will atempt to fly tomorrow, but not if its over 15kts. Just to much wind for a first flight and although this model has lots of power...I need to see how she flies, before I do so in higher winds. I received my landing gear from Tower...the landing gear came from the larger gas ugly stick ARF. The gear is a bit wider...but not to wide and I was able to change it out this afternoon. I have over 4" of prop clearence and this landing gear is a good bit stronger. I also reversed the aileron push rods, so the kwik link/spring is on the control horn...not the servo. This gave me more travel, without binding and 25% more flaps. There is little I can do to the model now, but fly her. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/13/2012 9:35 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192543

RE: RCG 20cc question...
Hay DaleD, Thanks for the information and I did order two 8mm x .125 prop nuts from True Turn this morning. I'm bitten at the bit to fly this model and tomorrow is the day. Thanks for everything, Bob
Posted on: 8/13/2012 12:18 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191858

RE: RCG 20cc question...
Aloha DaleD, I did take a look at that spot to on the stab and didn't think that was the cause. When I test ran the engines, I used a bungy cord around the rudder, then went under the forward part of the stab, aft to a pick into the ground. The bungy rubbed on that very spot and I saw it at the time. I believe the bungy cord may have created this part of the stab, but I really do not know for sure. I do know when I ran the engine the first time...with out the wing...the model shuck like crazy. I'm very surprised at the out put of this engine with a 17x6 prop...it does streach that bungy cord...a bunch more then I expected. But what ever the cause...it was noted and fixed prior to the first flight. I just hope the fix will do the job and I will check it out after the first flight and each flight there after. I received my Tx back from Airtronics and went to the flying field this morning...with the Ugly Stick. When I hooked up the wings...only one aileron worked. I left the Tx manual at home...and I was not able to fix the glitch, untill I got home at noon. It took a while, but I managed to get it all worked out (and I was about ready to shoot the flippen Tx by then), but by then my day was slowing down. I will fly this beast on Tuesday...if the wind gods are kind to us. I tried to buy a Spinner Prop Nut on line at Tower...but they are out of stock for the 8x1.25's I need. That was my first idea, but just wasn't able to find one anywhere to buy. Do you know who sells one I can buy ? I put on a Master AirScrew Symitar S-Series 16x8 prop. I've flown these props with my .60 and .90 glow engines and they are as good as APC and I think better...more robust in construction, with the same performance. I'll keep you posted on the first flight. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/12/2012 10:12 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191172

RE: SD10/Analog servo?
Hi Guys, I am flying the 10G on FHSS-1, with 94102 and 94322 servos with no problems. Works just great and I only fly on FHSS-1 receivers. I just received my 10G Tx back from Airtronics. My 10G needed the up date and they gave me a quick turn around with my gear. I sent them one receiver to check and they did that also...for no cost. I paid the shipping over and Airtronics paid for the return, Priority Mail. I've been flying Airtronics gear since the late 80's and the Customer Service has always been outstanding. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/12/2012 9:49 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Airtronics Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191152

RE: Canard Stick Plans
Hay Joebahl, I do have the kit for sale...If your interested. Bob
Posted on: 8/11/2012 10:19 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190005

RE: RCG 20cc question...
DaleD, I did forward pictures and my fix to Tower Hobbies. I've done business with these folks for over 25 years and never a problem. I did not ask for a replacement, just sent them the pictures and the problem I found with my model. I am not sure if running the engine with out the wing caused the crack on the aft fuselage...or just a fluke with this airframe. I also modified the model and placed the rudder and elevator servo's aft in the model and also added my stab support wires. I'm not sure if this help create the problem or just a build issue with the guys who built the airframe for Tower. Either way, I'm still happy with the model and plan on flying it tomorrow. I was going to go fly this morning, but the winds were up and over 10kts (Maui R/C weather station). This Sping and Summer has been windy and not much flying due to the weather. Winters are best here on island for flying R/C and when we usually have our airshow. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/11/2012 10:56 AM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189407

RE: RCG 20cc question...
Hay av8tor1977, Yes I did rebalance the model and it was a bit nose heavy before...now its dead on. Thanks for the input, Bob
Posted on: 8/11/2012 12:20 AM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189029

RE: RCG 20cc question...
Hi Guys, Some good news and some not so good news. My transmitter came back from Airtronics...so that is back on line. I also received a package from Tower with my wheels and tail wheel assy, along with two Master AirScrew S series 16x6 and 16x8 props. I installed the smaller tail wheel and it will work just fine. I had to recut my spinner and rebalance it again, to fit the Master AirScrew props. The 5" wheels will not work and to be honest it looked rediculas...but just to wide and big to go in without some new hardware. Then I went to charge the batteries for its first flight tomorrow...and my tail wagged...yep...wagged. It was loose...!#$%& ! So I pulled the safty wires off the tail, removed the covering and found my tail was only being held on with the top fuse balsa-and four safty wires on the tail. It was cracked all aournd both sides and the bottom. Now how on earth did that happen...? Folks...I don't have a clue...I didn't bang it...and only ran the engine...honest. The blue line on the pictures is where the crack formed on this model. The balsa was a bit soft on the bottom and on one side of the fuse. As you can see, it cracked where the servo rods exit the airframe in the tail. I also saw where one servo exit was miss cut and a small piece of balsa was placed in the repair. I've never had an Ugly Stick crack in this place...not in the several dozen I've built over the past 45 years. I'm almost ready to build me a new fuse...I've the lite ply and balsa on hand...and could get one built in a week or so. I will see how this flys tomorrow and holds up, but I'm ready to build a new fuse. I CA'd the whole mess together with slow cure, then placed 1/64" ply over the damaged area's to give added strength-then covered the ply with clear urethane for protection. It took four hours for the fix and to get the model back airworthy. The tail now is rock solid and no play at all. Its ready to fly now and I plan on giving the model its first flight tomorrow morning-weather permitting. This has been an experience for sure... Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/11/2012 12:11 AM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189024

RE: TROY BUILT MODELS
I tried to order a receiver switch from TBM...cost was $25.00...and they tried to charge me $38.00 for shipping. I sent them an email requesting USPS shipping...and never received an answer from them. I didn't make the buy...and went else where. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/9/2012 7:45 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11187691

RE: RCG 20cc question...
Hay DaleD, I did my second run set today with the RCG 20cc on my Ugly Stick. I'm using Turnigy 17x6 prop on a 80 deg. F. day @ sea level...humidity was 60%. I found a sweet spot at around 8100~8300 rpm, with a solid bark, smooth, sweet and rock solid. Top end came to 9000 rpm and a good idle @ 2000 rpm. It pulled like a bull with his tail on fire...this sweet model is going to have some serious vertical. When I ran the engine, the wing was on the model and the vibration was considerbly less. It still vibrated, but at around 8K it got real smooth. I needed to richen up the mixture on the high end...and I turned the forward carb set screw CCW -1/2 turn (the mixture screw nearest the prop). It seemed to lean a bit at high end and the instructions gave this set screw as the one to richen up the high end. It seemed to run better at full throttle, but 90% of the run time was on the sweet spot of about 8100rpm. I managed to get 13 minutes of engine run on 240cc fuel tank. I may install a 450cc fuel tank in the near future. Right now 10 minutes of flying is fine and what I set my Tx timer on. I was surprised I only lost 900 rpm with a 2" longer prop...and I've still two other types of 17x6 props to test run. The 17" prop is considerable more massive then the 15" prop and I'm using the RPM indicator I installed on the model to get my RPM figures. Let me know if my RPM figures are good and any additional information/help would be kindly accepted. The prop shaft is a 8mm x 1.25...that is the prop adapter size that fit on this engine and holding on my alum. spinner. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/4/2012 9:04 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11181244

RE: RCG 20cc question...
Hi Guys, A few of my 17x6 props arrived and a nice fuel tank vent I ordered. I installed the fuel tank vent on the bottom of my model, just aft of the fuel tank and installed my new prop. I also received the metal spinner adapter (8mm x 1.25-long) and modified my spinner to fit the props. I then balanced the prop and spinner...but still waiting for my 5" tires and new tail wheel assy. The parts are due in any day...and then we will be off flying. That sure is a big prop and the largest I've ever used on any model I've built in the past. What is the operating RPM should I be looking for, for best thrust and power. I'm not looking for speed, but vertical assent. Its getting closer for me and I hope to have a first flight in the coming week. Enclosed are a few pictures of the work done to the model and you will also see the ground clearence issue I'm dealing with. I added one washer, in two places, under the left side of my engine mount, to give me some right thrust. I'll see how this works out and I may need to add more or reduce the thickness of the washers after I fly it and see how if flys. If you look you will see two eyelets on the bottom of my fuse. These are the drain holes for the fuel tank bay. If for some reason my fuel tank leaks...it should leak the fuel out of these two eyelet holes...and not all over the models insides. I've seen several models soaked in the insides by fuel tanks leaking gas and really made a mess of everything. I do pray this works as installed... : ) My garage opens to the West...and we had an awesome sunset tonight. Thanks again for all your advice, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/4/2012 1:20 AM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11180439

RE: Most Blatant
Hi Guys, Hobby King has the worst company policy about refunds and out of stock procedures of any company I've ever done business with..."period." Its sad...but true...they suck in returning your funds, once they get their sticky fingers on it. I have bought four times from them and learned the hard way how to buy from them...and how not to buy from them. I do 90% of my hobby business from U.S. and Western companies...because...they honor the deal. H.K. doesn't have a clue to doing "Western Style Customer Service." Sadly for them...I've lived and worked in China...and not all Chinese companies do business like H.K. does. H.K. has raised the level of deceptive customer relations to an all time level. Not all their products are junk...some of it is acutally quite good...but some is actually true junk. And yes...I may buy from them...but only if I am not able to get what I need from Western dealers. If you go to their web site...and read what fellow modelers write up, about the products they sell...lots of negative adds are removed. Some writers re-post their negative ciomments about a product...and my hat is off to them, with a thanks and happy landings always. I posted a negative comment about H.K. here on RCUniverse and you would be suprised how many guys chimmed in and told me I was full of camel ka-ka...that H.K. was the best and walked on water...ect., ect., ect. Truth be known...just look at how many folks have issues with H.K. and that should be your clue to who these guys are, or are not. They are improving...my last puchase was painless...but I learned how to buy from them. That is what is sad...I had to learn how to do business with this company. Now what does that say about any company...not just Hobby King...( and may the flies of 1000 camel infest their private parts). Soft landings Always, Bobby of Maui
Posted on: 8/3/2012 6:22 PM by Author "Bob Paris" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11180191