RE: Which ESCs keep brake on indefinitely ?
I had the Phoenix 2000 out today and the prop was folding back perfectly. This is a great thermal flyer from Hobbyking for $ 80 receiver ready.
Posted on: 8/16/2012 10:52 AM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195871

RE: Which ESCs keep brake on indefinitely ?
I just found a Turnigy 25A "Basic" ESC, cost $ 11 I think. I installed it in the Phoenix. Anyway, it provides permanent braking action. My problem with the one that came with the Phoenix is that it has no name or markings and would not respond to programming "throttle stick" instructions for Turnigy, Electrify or Thunderbird. I am going to wildly speculate that 'all' ESCs short the motor coils indefinitely when receiving a low throttle signal from the transmitter. With the transmitter off there is no braking. I don'y think it is using much power for braking, however I hope to hear from someone that is sure. The Prius uses back EMF to recapture the braking energy but our brushless ESCs can only brake, not regeneration.
Posted on: 8/15/2012 8:45 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195275

RE: Which ESCs keep brake on indefinitely ?
No power would be required if the windings are shorted to each other. Take a motor [disconnected from ESC etc.] and short two or all three wires together and try to turn it. You can rotate it but it will not spin.
Posted on: 8/15/2012 6:40 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195115

Which ESCs keep brake on indefinitely ?
I was out flying my Phoenix 2000 today and the motor continued to windmill. The BRAKE function is turned on, but does not stay on, it just brakes for a few seconds. This ESC is one of Hobbyking's that came with the plane. Can anyone verify that a quality brand ESC like Castle or Electrifly has a constant always-on brake function ? For what it's worth, this 2 m glider is a great flying plane but I had to replace the motor and re-engineer the motor mount. Oh yeah, and the brake does not work, but hey $ 80 receiver ready. I got under a growing cumulous cloud and had lift continuously even with the prop windmilling away.
Posted on: 8/15/2012 2:28 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194785

RE: Byrons 10% Aero gen 2 Safe To Run?
Even Supertigre only recoccomends that low oil fuel for their 3000 and 4500 engines, not the 2300 or anything smaller. I would not use it in any of my engines. Is there any way you can take it back to the store ? All engine manufacturers call for a minimum of 18 - 20% oil. It would be interesting to hear from guys actually running 10% oil, someone is buying the stuff. My LHS pushes it for ALL SuperTigre engines despite what it says in the instructions.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 1:50 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185915

RE: Windshield washerpump ?
Checked out Jersey Modeler, yeah a lot of good fueling systems and pumps, thanks. http://www.jerseymodeler.com/id29.html I checked two jugs of windshield fluid and they were both methanol, the Rain-X said it was 35% methanol. We are in cold country in upstate NY and we need it to work well. Still, the government may be planning to ram ethanol down our throats but it is looking like bad timing. I am hoping due to the drought they will take at least some of the ethanol out of the gasoline.
Posted on: 8/5/2012 9:15 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11182426

RE: Replacing the Air in a Jug
It would be extra work to dry out the dessicant, which is constantly exposed to the atmosphere. Still, if you could get the color-changing crystals in a glass tube, and have only a small air hole, it would be excellent for removing water. However it would not prevent the methanol from evaporating out [see below]. I top off my working jug with a second jug. I found a flexible spout at the Walmart auto section for $ .50. Otherwise, pouring fuel out of a jug requires a big funnel and then you can't see very well. I have also upgraded my two working jugs with Slimline caps [expensive !] because the DuBro and Great Planes do not seal completely. I think for a low cost solution, epoxy two short brass tubes thru a jug cap. Put a short piece of fuel tubing on the outside of the vent tube. When not in use put your fuel filler fitting into the vent line tube. Then you have a completely sealed system. I had never though about the methanol evaporating out [thanks, Sports Pilot !], just water coming in but sealing the system prevents both. Unfortunately Slimline is undergoing some problems. Ron's Heli South has inventory of parts and pumps.
Posted on: 8/5/2012 10:55 AM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11181645

RE: Windshield washerpump ?
I have heard that the kit for the 2000 will work on the Boxxer, just uses shorter length of the tubing. That tubing is thin-wall silicone rubber and not readily available. Thanks for finding those kits, I know a guy that needs one. Ron's has good inventory, nice. As for Slimline, let us know the story when you get them on the phone. I suspect they are re-grouping to launch the online store. Not much here on the Sullivan pumps. I have 3 and only one is not leaking. Even that one leaked once, then it stopped leaking. I don't reccomend these !!
Posted on: 8/4/2012 9:07 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11181246

RE: Windshield washerpump ?
Slimline appears to be in limbo. My LHS cannot order from them, and said they were changing to direct internet sales only. the Slimline website is structured as an online retailer except that it is "under construction". I sure hope they can make this work because Slimline pumps and fuel systems are top quality.
Posted on: 8/4/2012 4:03 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11180992

RE: Windshield washerpump ?
I examined my fittings and took some pictures. The key element is the o-ring seal in the vent hole that seals to the fuel fitting when not in use. One of mine was shot. Next, as most of us know, the plastic nut on the DuBro "Fuel Station" is always coming loose. There is a big O-ring under it and it may well not be sealing when the nut is loose. I air tested my three fueler cap setups and none of them was really sealed. I am going to try to get one of those Slimline caps that you have, because then there is no question about being sealed. However it is $30 for the #2528 cap. My LHS says he can't get Slimline products anymore, but he has one of the #2013 which is the "360" cap with a mount for a hand pump, $40.
Posted on: 8/3/2012 2:06 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179750

RE: Windshield washerpump ?
That's the problem question with everything. Our Whirlpool fridge is still running after 22 years with no problems. A new replacement Whirlpool is all new technolgy, new factory etc. and designed for maximum effeciency with little regard for lasting 22 years. On fuel, I ran into serious problems with old 4S and 2S fuels that went bad, probably due to water absorption. The fuels had sat around too long due to a slow season last year. I believe water got in due to sitting with a pump mounted on the jug, and due to pumping unused fuel back into the jug [it gets water due to the exhaust pressure]. I am going to use more of these 2 quart jugs http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJ810&P=7 and I found a handy pour spout at Walmart auto section for $.50 because pouring fuel out of a jug always dribbles down the side of the 1 gal jug.. I am going to store any fuel pumped out of tanks in a "USED" jug. I spent a ridiculous amount of time tuning engines and changing glow plugs before I figured out the fuel was bad. In addition to start and tuning difficulties, the engines would suddenly quit mid-flight . Problems with about 7 engines cleared up when I started using new fuel and re-capping the jug every day.
Posted on: 8/3/2012 8:30 AM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179595

RE: Windshield washerpump ?
I have found several guys in the club using the Hobbico Top Fueler MK 2 with no problems so I am going to replace my ever-leaking Sullivans with the Hobbico. It is currently listed at Tower as Top Fueler MK 3 and is only $ 13. We can only hope they are still being well made. Sorry , I PM'd Sr Telemaster about how the window washer pump was holding up, msg should have gone to DSZABO2..
Posted on: 8/2/2012 8:29 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179213

RE: Replacing the Air in a Jug
I just cleared up all my "engine problems" by testing my fuels against new fuel. Turns out I had three old jugs that were definitley bad. I attribute it all to water. I now plan to keep much closer track of my fuels. I did have one older jug that was still good. I no longer trust the standard DuBro fuel system be fully sealed and I will take it off and put a cap on the jug when not activly flying. I bought several 2 quart jugs from Great Planes to minimize exposure. I gave up on electric pumps and just use a DuBro hand crank pump. I also decided to not pump fuel out of the tank and back into the jug. I will either pump it into a "used" jug, or keep it in the tank. I have wondered if those box wine containers could stand up to fuel. That would be an ideal system for keeping moisure out. . If fuel were sold in a one gallon [or larger] box with a hose barb outlet you could gravity feed it into the aircraft tank. No pump, no moisture , no problems. If anyone knows a way to pour fuel from a gallon jug into a smaller jug, let me know. I use a large funnel and drippage is minimal but it would be slick to find a spout for a gallon jug because the stuff loves to follow down the side of the jug.
Posted on: 7/29/2012 9:50 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11174066

RE: Windshield washerpump ?
I found your Autozone pump http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/TAAP-Windshield-Washer-Pump/_/N-9cibf?itemIdentifier=69770&_requestid=893007 keep us posted. Regarding Slimline, the Boxxer pump is available for around $56. The overhaul kit for it is not in stock but the kit for the SL2000 is. My friend is ordering this kit thinking the hose and/or rollers will also fit the Boxxer. Right now I need 3 good pumps and am considering going back to hand pumps such as the H9. I built a metering fuel dispenser with a 24 oz bottle so I can measure fuel going into and out of a plane. This is for measuring tank size and fuel usage but it takes two pumps. I have 3 Sullivans and they all have tuna cans under them to catch the leakage.
Posted on: 7/10/2012 5:35 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11150638

RE: Will mixing fuel brands damage glow plugs ?
Here is a recent post discussing silicone liquid anti-foaming agent contaminating glow plugs. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1661195&page=4 [last post]. Note if anyone mentioned silicon [sand] it was probably a typo. I cannot find any definitive test work and doubt we ever will. I plan to avoid having RTV anywhere on my engines, based soley on erring on the side of caution. In other words the next time I have an engine mystery I will know one thing that was not the cause.
Posted on: 7/10/2012 12:51 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11150263

RE: Will mixing fuel brands damage glow plugs ?
You are right, according to the wiki http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glow_plug_(model_engine) it is a platinum wire alloyed with something else. This is great news because loss of surface material will not be missed and the plug should go on working until the wire actually breaks or shorts. This means that all the times I have "solved a problem by putting in a new glow plug" it probably would have cleared up eventually. Glad I kept the ones I took out ! I have found that the OS F and #8 keep their shape and look good for a very long time. With the A3 [now called #6] I had many of them develop shorts in the coils, probably due to running too lean. These collapsed A3 plugs would draw over 5 amps which my RCAT Systems glow driver could not do, and the 5 A may have also contributed to the demise of two Tower nicad glow drivers with the current meter built in. I did a little more reading. Evidently the platinum probably contains 2 - 8 % tungsten but the exact formula is a trade secret. I found some mention of plated glow plugs being made in the past but evidently all quality glow plugs are solid platinum alloy wire. I plan to stick with OS forever.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 9:43 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147135

RE: Will mixing fuel brands damage glow plugs ?
Sounds about right to me. Thanks for your first-hand data. It is a full time job in this hobby sorting facts from all the information volunteered by the witch doctors at the field.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 3:36 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146855

RE: Windshield washerpump ?
I have heard that this is a very bad idea that has been proposed and tried many times in the past. The washer pumps will not last very long and will contaminate the fuel as the pump parts fail or disolve. The Slimline pumps are the best thing available but possibly the company has gone under or is under new ownership. There WAS a pump ovehhaul kit that consisted of new rollers and special large diameter thin wall tubing [it is a parastaltic pump]. However the pump kit is not available from Slimline, except posssibly from one company "down in Texas". Sorry but this was just a conversation at the field today with a very knowlegable fellow that owns many Slimeline pumps. He is high up in heli competition and this is the pump they mostly all use. After hearing this, I am thinking if I ever was going to get a Slimeline pump, now is the time. I own three of those [expelitive] yellow Sulivan electric pumps and they all leak, sometimes badly. There is a huge need for a good, affordable pump for glow fuels and [dare we hope ?] gasoline.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 3:29 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146847

MORGAN MV and other Morgan fuels
I have wondered if Morgan MV fuel is worth trying. The claim is they have a special blend of two synthetic oils that run at lower viscosity and provide more power due to reduced friction. As often pointed out here, fuel viscosity has a lot to do with how well the needle valves can keep the engine in the operating range. The needle valve is designed for conventional fuels so playing with the viscosity sounds uncertain. I also noted that Morgan now sells a 15% nitro 4 stroke fuel in both pink [Omega] and green [Coolpower] both 50% castor. I am assuming it is the same fuel. I also note that the rest of the entire Omega family is now 30% castor; my recollection is that it used to be more like 50 % but historic data is not available AFAIK. Comments appreciated. Omega fuels have 30% castor so they should be OK as a 4 stroke fuel. On the other hand, the "4 stroke" should run well in 2 stroke engines. I'm primarily interested in your experience with the MV fuel though.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 9:59 AM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146530

RE: Will mixing fuel brands damage glow plugs ?
The only time the mixing could have happened [not sure it even did] was in going from Omega 10 to Byron 10%. The OS 61 FP engine I don't think has race bearings. However, I am going to use only one fuel and if this happens again I will tear it down. I adjust the engines to be well on the rich side because they will lean out slightly in flight. I also doubt the guru's theory about mixing fuels but they are really convinced that RTV rubber, even on the exhaust manifold, can kill a plug. I use OS #8 and F and they always look perfect but there have been times when a new glow plug resoved a problem. I went electric to get away from these engine mysteries but tonight one of my motors developed loose magnets [ Hobbyking NTM Prop Drive series - AVOID !]. Putting an engine back on that plane ! Thanks, I knew I could count on you on this one.
Posted on: 7/5/2012 10:43 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11144874

Will mixing fuel brands damage glow plugs ?
The engine gurus in our club say that mixing of different brands of glow fuel can cause metallic precipitates that will destroy the platinum coating on a glow plug. I wonder if there is any hard knowlege that this is true ?One of my engines, an OS 61 FP would run very strong then die instantly, and i mean instantly. Much faster than if the fuel were suddenly pinched off. Something had to be causing the glow plug to not work. We replaced the glow plug and it ran fine. I did see a very tiny metallic looking sphere on the coil, an OS #8. We try our best to use the same fuels but for one reason or another [ LHS is out of stock for example] we end up with multiple fuels. We now will never mix fuels. Is this folklore or scientific fact ? Silicone RTV has also been mentioned by the gurus as doing the same plug killing if it is used to form an exhaust or intake gasket. Of course we know that metal from a failing part such as a bearing is a guaranteed way to kill a glow plug.
Posted on: 7/5/2012 8:16 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11144749

RE: fuel storage
Gasoline 10% ethanol [E10] on the other hand can't be trusted for the next season.
Posted on: 6/22/2012 11:52 AM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11127916

RE: AVIA by Topmodel
Here is my deluxe Hobbyking propulsion system , the KDA22-15M motor and a 25 amp ESC. Net total cost is maybe $30 and shipping is fast and cheap , $4-$10 range. I had a question or two: First, does that canopy retention work ? Second, the V tail retention does not look "robust" I was thinking of making a small 120 degree aluminum spreader plate [a V shaped washer basically] to go under the screw. That and I think you added canopy glue between the V tail and fuselage ? My motor mount was done as follows: filed the aluminum motor mount slightly to fit inside nose. Drilled and tapped the fiberglass mount 4-40 4X, cut out the fiberglass to clear the motor, CA'd the fiberglass to fuse with aluminum motor plate acting as a spacer, mixed JB weld and applied to reverse side of fiberglas ring, installed 4-40 cap screws with 1/8" of threads running into the JB weld before it hardened. I am going to permanently solder the ESC to the motor and use an extension to reach the receiver.
Posted on: 6/13/2012 10:15 AM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11116890

RE: Katana 140 build help
Here are pictures of my mods to the CMP Katana 140. Shown is the 2 1/2" motor box extension, and the landing gear mounted directly to the motor box. This plane is 12# 5OZ and has to be landed with speed. The original gear mount was not strong enough and was destroyed about 3 times before I came up with this. The plane is serving its purpose which is to sharpen my flying and repair skills before I spend serious bucks on something nice. That ASP 180 has been an excellent runner and I am thinking of putting it on a 72 - 74 plane from Pilot RC or 3DHS.. In some pictures the CF landing gear is mounted right behind the engine. When I added the cowl, I moved it back to the rear of the extension box, mounted the cowl on backets, and made panels to cover the 1 1/2" gap. BTW I carefully calculated the wing area , which is claimed to be 992 sq inch, and came up with about 940, resulting in a WCL of 12.2. After test flying it today, this plane is a pig and I am going to junk it.
Posted on: 6/7/2012 5:10 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093451

RE: Big stick 60 wing failure
Bruce, On my BS60 the entire servo tray came loose due to insufficent glue. Fortunately I have the R &E servos in the tail [for balance], leaving only the engine servo, at full throttle. I flew it until it ran out and landed. With a Magnum 4s 90 it balances perfectly with standard servos in tail.. On my BS40 I had a major crash and built an entire new front fuse. I shortened the fuel tank area by maybe 1 1/2", put the servos in the tail, put on K&B61 2S and again, it balances ! To hold the wing on I made two of the plywood projections and widened the slot in the fuse.Anyone starting out with a new BS40, the OS LA46 is perfect for it and results in a very light, east to fly and land aircraft. I suppose likewise an LA 65 would balance a BS60. Gads, an LA65 is now $ 129.00 !! BTW the LA series engines are great. The power of the LA65 is equal to the FX 61 [published tests], On the 46 size I am not sure, still looking for data but I think the AX 46 has the edge over the LA 46. The LA engines are substantially lighter. BH
Posted on: 6/3/2012 4:03 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11105075

RE: Big stick 60 wing failure
Bruce, You have to wonder about the quality of their plywood. According to Bud Nosen Models, importers of birch ply, there is only one factory left in "the world" making the thinner thicknesses of Baltic birch used in models. That begs the question, are ARF factories in Asia importing and using the Finnish aka "Russian" birch ply or do they have their own plywood manufacturing in Asia, S America, Africa or Oz ? What sort of tree is it made from ? Someone from Australia should know the answer. I suspect "the world" mentioned above is only refering to north of the equator. By the way, all the ply from the factory in Finland is metric. Anything you buy in inch sizes will actually be metric. Generally it will be close but the "3/32" " is only 2 mm, substantially thinner. That wing retainer is the most highly stressed plywood I can think of and maybe adding some aluminum would be better. I like the idea of using two aluminum arrows , mentioned previously. Bob
Posted on: 6/2/2012 5:20 PM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11104119

RE: Prop Bitten
It took two years for my finger to recover. What happened is the engine started BACKWARDS and the plane rolled back on the flight stand. The spinner had broken and I could no longer use the starter so I used the chicken stick. Since I had never had a backwards start, I did not notice the prop wash was not blowing on me.
Posted on: 6/2/2012 7:22 AM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11103671

RE: Big stick 60 wing failure
OK so this is a late post, but I love my Stik 60 and will take a closer look at the wing hold-down. I use those black nylon bolts by Great Planes in all my planes, The main reason is the hex head, but I trust these more than the white Nylon bolts. The white nylon bolts come from many manufacturers and I have had some of them fail when they should have held. They age, can absorb moisture, and are embrittled by cold. I would replace any that show signs of age or hardening. I also put a taper on the first few threads because some planes have difficulty getting the bolt aligned to get it started. I use a cordless screw driver with a socket and I torque the bolts down really snug.
Posted on: 6/2/2012 7:00 AM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11103651

RE: 2 mm and 3 mm plywood
I received the following email from the good folks at Bud Nosen Models: "This is what I do know. We import all our plywood from the country of Finland. It comes into us in mm not inches with the exception of the Italian Poplar (or lite ply). Our vendor tells us at this time, there is only one manufacturer of this type of plywood in the world. (finding that a little hard to believe, but ok) We convert the mm to the nearest imperial size as we believe most of our competitors do. I don't really believe that you can get a true 3/32 (at least not from the company we are dealing with), but I do have a call into Bud as he is not in Minnesota at the moment. " Case closed ! I believe it when she said there is only one manufacturer. It would be interesting too know what the airplane manufacturers in the far east are using though.
Posted on: 6/2/2012 1:07 AM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11103445

RE: AVIA by Topmodel
My buddy is having problems keeping the motor wires off the rotating motor in his Avia. What is the best trick to fix that ?
Posted on: 5/30/2012 11:26 AM by Author "Bobhend" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11100105