RE: Ziroli Stuka Fiberglass Fuselage
Worked a little more on the fuselage... I cut the former templates from the plans and used spray adhesive to tack them to the 1/8 aircraft ply. Cut them out on the band saw and began fitting them to the fuselage. There are only 5 former's used on the glass fuselage. One just forward of the wing leading edge that has a "wing dowel hole" that will be installed once the wing is fitted. Three fitted to the area under the wing and the last in the tail section used to mount the tail wheel. The templates were real close and only minor sanding required on the corners where the glass lay-up creates an inside radius. If you buy one of these fuselage's make sure you ask for the up-dated plans sheet that's included as it shows the "FG former's" and their position in the fuselage. I had an older set of plans that didn't show these details.
Posted on: 5/18/2013 12:35 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515269

RE: Bridi by Bluejay Airplane Kits
They're excellent kits. I've built the Aircruiser 60 and the Killer Chaos 60. For the price you can't beat them. They fly Wonderful. [;)]
Posted on: 5/18/2013 8:29 AM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515140

RE: OS BGX-1 Glow to Gas Conversion (Yeah!) Thanks Max
How did you make out? All is well?....[:D]
Posted on: 9/11/2012 6:51 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225625

RE: OS .60 FP Bushed engine suddenly dies
[quote]ORIGINAL: Firepower R/C Thanks for the input, guys. Let me elaborate. The engine runs wide open, and runs well... full power is being developed. It also idles well, runs at half throttle perfectly, and will never sputter or so much as cough as long as I stay away from 1/3 throttle. Fuel tank position is correct, and is the exact same as before the problem surfaced, so that theory is out (the tank was only partially full when I saw it drain back). The carb was sealed to the engine as I noted in my first post. No change in the problem after sealing. Lastly, it starts and runs fine when up to temp, just not at 1/3 throttle. At that throttle position, it may run 10 seconds, it may run a minute, but at some random point it will stop without sounding too rich or lean. The idle is very consistant, and will idle for many minutes without loading up or leaning out. It seems perfectly dialed in! Very strange. Just to eliminate some possibilites, I am thinking about trying a different carb. I just need to find one that will fit. if that doesn't work, I will pull the motor and put it on the stand. [/quote] The 2 needle carburetor from the OS .46 AX and FX engines will fit the FP-60 engine. You have to push the carburetor down hard with you thumb and squeeze the o-ring to make sure the small screws on each side line up. Mine works very well with the .46 carb and the carb throat I.D. is a bit larger as well. Note: the carb to case o-ring is thinner on the 46 carburetor.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 6:32 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225609

RE: HB PDP .61
[quote]ORIGINAL: Warjet I opened one of engine storage containers to get an inventory, and saw my collection of HB engines, from the .21 PDP, .21 grand Prix, 40's, 1 50, and several .61's. Some of the PDP's have red letters stamped on the mount, others are black. All have black heads. Does anyone remember which is the stock PDP and which is the Blitz model? Thanks! [/quote] The ones with the Black heads are "Blitz" models. They have a very thin conventional cast iron ring and a chrome cylinder sleeve. The PDP Regular head with Black letters are late models The PDP Regular head with Red letters are early models. Regular, both red and black letter PDP models have Dykes rings
Posted on: 9/7/2012 8:09 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221363

RE: OPS Maxi 30 engine
Thanks, I'll see if I can make one...
Posted on: 9/6/2012 2:49 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219941

RE: OPS Maxi 30 engine
What does the propeller nut look like? This one didn't come with one, also does this engine use a long set screw as the propeller shaft like the Jett engines do? (You can see in the picture that it's pretty short)
Posted on: 9/6/2012 1:13 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219835

RE: Fitzpatrick 61 Engine Information Please
It's a sexy looking engine for sure....[;)]
Posted on: 9/5/2012 6:03 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218872

OPS Maxi 30 engine
Anyone still running one of these? I found this one pretty cheap. I want to use it in a 1/4 scale biplane. It appears to be very well made.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 6:01 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218869

RE: Why not a Webra engines thread?
[quote]ORIGINAL: ChiefK Thanks BW... do you (or anyone else) have an idea where I might find gasket sets for this engine? ChiefK [/quote] You could take a couple measurements and email Randy at Mecoa and see if the HB .61 gasket sets will fit.
Posted on: 9/1/2012 7:52 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11214032

RE: Need needle assembly for OS #60A carb
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OS-Carb-Needle-26029310-R-C-Airplane-60A-/261085300510?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc9e5871e#ht_1382wt_1186 FOR A REMOTE NEEDLE. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OS-Engines-Nozzle-60-FP-RN-OSM26029430-/360452874040?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ecaa5f38#ht_1920wt_952
Posted on: 8/27/2012 4:36 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208227

RE: Best replacement for a worn OS40FP
You can find new in the box OS FP-40's on *bay all the time. They made a bunch of them.
Posted on: 8/25/2012 5:21 AM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205324

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150 [size=5][b]FA91S Stored 14 Years After Exclusive Use With 100% Synthetic Oil, Oh the Horror![/b][/size] I ran this Saito FA91S on Cool Power 15% fuel W/100% synthetic lube. After running about 2 gallons of fuel through it, the plane it was mounted on was totaled after loosing radio contact & going in level through some picked corn stubble. The engiune did not make ground contact & I removed it to instal in a new airframe. I did not do any cleaning other than a quick exterior spray down & wiping. Since I was planning on putting it back into service quickly I did not use any after run oil as is my practice except for season end storage. Right after the mishap I had an opportunity to re-locate & the engine was forgotten & to make a long story short, it was stored in an interior closet for 14 years. When I recently took up the hobby again I finished the airplane that the 91 was to be mounted in & after checking to see that the engine was free, I did some bench testing & the engine ran fine turning 9000 RPM W/a Graupner 13 3/4 X 8 prop. Alas, I soon put the engine straight in @ WOT (soft ground) when the plane snaprolled from about 20' altitude. Since there was no obviouse external damage other than a destroyed wood prop, I gave the engine a thorough cleaning. R&R the carb/intake & fired it up after converting it to C&H spark ignition. the engine seemed to be fine, turning 10,500 RPM W/a Zinger 15 X 4 wood prop but after several test runs tuning the EI, I noticed some oil leaking from the front seal & the prop hub seemed hot. I tore the engine down & found that the front bearing was damaged, probably from impact. That seemed to be the only damage. After wiping the varnish from the crank & main bearing W/an acetone soaked wrag, I took this picture of the main bearing.. There was some slight corrosion from the long storage W/O after run oil, but the rear bearing seemed perfectly fine. There is a very thin coating of oxide on the counterweight & crank snout just ahead of the main bearing seat, but nowhere near what people would make you believe would be the result of my inadvertant neglect after running 100% synthetic lubes. Now, before you castor addicts start critisizing me for my obvious neglect, let me make one thing perfectly clear. I admit that I should not have stored an engine W/O liberally applying after run oil to the internals, but that's not the point. The point is that the horror stories about corrosion from not using castor in the fuel are pretty well busted. At least as far as Cool Power fuel is concerned. Furthermore there is virtually no carbon build up in the top end. Granted, this engine probably has only had about 3 gallons of fuel through it, but I have had similar lack of heavy carbon deposites in my FA150 that had considerably more use. A little rubbing of the thumb on the piston crown removed most of the combustion film. [/quote] I think the real Horror Story is that after two gallons of fuel you're having to take the engine apart to replace the front bearing. You said "the engine did not make "ground contact" so it didn't get hurt when the model went down in the corn field. Probably ran it FAT for the first gallon, breaking it in correctly and all. You still need to break the engine in with Cool Power fuel, Don't You? I don't know about you but I hate to needlessly disassemble my engines or have to paint them if I do. "Cool Power Fuel", I'm Happy you're Happy with it but I'm not using it.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 9:30 AM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186177

RE: OS BGX-1 Glow to Gas Conversion (Yeah!) Thanks Max
I ran my BGX on Saturday with the WT-499 glow fuel carburetor. I used a 23oz bladder from a Tettra tank and just ran a single line from the bladder to the carburetor. Compared to the factory carburetor I found that it doesn't load up, it'll idle for minutes and go to full throttle. I like it!
Posted on: 8/19/2012 1:16 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198844

RE: WEBRA SPEED .91
[quote]ORIGINAL: Hobbsy The P-5 Webra .91 is completely different from the standard or old .91, the P-5 is designed to turn large props, 14x12 to 16x8 in the 8,000 plus rpm range. The older series Speed .91s turned 14x6s in the 10,000 rpm range. Both require 5% or less nitro and 20% lube. Pic. #1 is P-5 and Pic. #2 is Speed .91 ringed with DynaMix carb. [/quote] Dave, how do you like the P-5 91 engine? I know where there's one and might snag it.....[:D]
Posted on: 8/19/2012 12:28 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198807

RE: Parts for OS 60
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=+&FVSEARCH=throttle+lever&search=Go its gotta be in here somewhere....[:D]
Posted on: 8/13/2012 3:02 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192067

RE: OS BGX-1 Glow to Gas Conversion (Yeah!) Thanks Max
You've got it!
Posted on: 8/9/2012 9:29 AM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186991

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: Sharpeye22  Please read his post again.  He stated that after a 14 year storage he put the engine in a plane and shortly after that he crashed the plane straight in at full throttle.  That would make for possible engine damage. Would you not say? [/quote] I stand corrected.....still not going to use Cool Power. [:D]
Posted on: 8/9/2012 3:36 AM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186642

RE: OS 120 FS
[quote]ORIGINAL: fourstar2 Hey guys i also have a question about this old os 120 with the split rockers. I just got one from a friend and it had sat for so long that the engine siezed. I got it to break loose and it started up and ran, has good compression but wont idle. I started to dissaseble the engine to clean it all out and possibly replace the cam and crank bearings. I got all the way to removing the wrist pin to take the piston and rod out and i cannot get the wrist pin to budge. ive tried getting a screw to bite in and also tried a cheap harbor frieght easy out to no avail, like i said it is a good engine and just needs some TLC. Anybody with some good advice on getting the wrist pin out would be great. oh and ive also tried to use pb blaster applying heat this thing is really stuck, i just dont want to damage it. [/quote] See if you can spray some Dawn Power Dissolver up into the wrist pin area. Try to move the rod back and forth on the wrist pin using an Allen wrench to get behind the connecting rod.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 4:40 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186142

RE: OS 120 FS
[b]WOW! a whole season......[/b]That's Fantastic! It hardly looks like its been run for a quarter of a season. [:D] I wish you the Best of Luck with the Cool Power fuel. If you like it and you're happy with it.....
Posted on: 8/8/2012 4:24 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186118

RE: OS BGX-1 Glow to Gas Conversion (Yeah!) Thanks Max
Pretend that the timing is set at ZERO or Top Dead Center.... The woodruff key would be at 12 o-clock and the magnet at 6 o-clock and the sensor at 6 o-clock Correct... NOW, Rotate [b]the sensor only[/b] 28 degrees clockwise looking at the front of the engine . Now the magnet fires the sensor/spark plug 28 degrees before TDC.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 3:44 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186072

RE: OS BGX-1 Glow to Gas Conversion (Yeah!) Thanks Max
If we're looking at the front of the engine as if it were a clock IF the magnet was mounted above the keyway . 28degrees before top dead center is about 1 o'clock give or take. so the sensor would be at/around 1 o-clock if the magnet was mounted directly above the keyway slot. Now mount the magnet 180 degrees from the keyway slot.... TDC is STILL TDC... The magnet and the sensor have moved around 180 degrees. The sensor should now be at or around the 7 o'clock position. If you have a degree wheel of can print one out off the NET it will be easier to see. I can't remember the site but there was a degree wheel you could print out and paste it on an old CD. It was the same size. You'll get it. You just have to wrap your head around it...[;)]
Posted on: 8/8/2012 1:47 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185908

RE: OS BGX-1 Glow to Gas Conversion (Yeah!) Thanks Max
[quote]ORIGINAL: opjose [quote]ORIGINAL: Broken Wings You've got it about 90 degrees off.... [b]orient the ring as per the instructions with the ''adjustment screw'' facing straight up in relation to the head[/b][color=#0000FF][/color] Adjustment screw straight up and down like the way the piston travels. [:D] [/quote] That's just it.... I don't have an '
Posted on: 8/8/2012 1:28 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185867

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: blw Broken Wings- copper polish will make a Saito shine like it was chromed. Were you the one who did whole engines and polished them with Wright's? I sprayed a 72 with Dawn and forgot about it for almost an hour while doing something else. It looks okay. There's a good bit about the late Bill Robison testing paint on Saitos. It's all somewhere in the Club Saito
Posted on: 8/7/2012 3:24 AM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11183932

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: earlwb 4 hours in Dawn Power Dissolver is likely to discolor the aluminum alloys in the engine. I don't think I went more than 30 minutes with the stuff myself, more like 15 to 20 minutes. If I had a particularly thick crud deposit I might redo that part a couple more times and I used a tooth brush on it, something softer than the aluminum.  But if the DDD doesn't discolor the aluminum then since aluminum forms a tough oxide coating, sort of like painting itself, it tends to be well protected so using DDD for several hours may not be a big deal. [/quote] It reacts with the copper in the alloy. 7075 stains real easy ( it's got more copper in it than say 6061...) I use Dawn Power Dissolver but I never soak anything in it. Spray it on, 10 mins. MAX scrubbing with a tooth brush and rinse it really well. I agree, I find that additional short applications work. IF your engine case does turn dark you can bring back the original finish using "Wrights Copper Cream" sold in the soap section at your local grocery store. A little dab and a tooth brush will bring back the original case color. I've only got two engines that are colored, a Red Irvine 150 that looks like its some type of powder coat and a HP .40 with Black Thermex Finish.
Posted on: 8/6/2012 6:17 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11183486

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150 [quote]ORIGINAL: blw Rustoleum paint???? On a perfectly good Saito??? Just don't ruin it in the first place. For that level of carbon, a crock pot is probably the only thing. It's easy, cheap, safe for aluminum, and very effective. I only use DPD for superficial gunk. However, a dirty Saito muffler is a good looking muffler.[:)] [/quote] Rustoleum BBQ Paint is the same thing as any other 1200* VHT paint @ a lower cost. It looks like bead blasted aluminum & quite frankly looks better than the bright silver that Saitos are painted with in the 1st place. I've used it on motorcycle cases & automobile cylinder heads, headers & intake manifolds. I use the black BBQ paint for cast iron cylinders etc. I doubt that you have 1/2 of the modified engine building experince that I have which includes building stroker Harley ''Big Twins'' back when ''stroker kits'' wern't readily available. As well as SB Chevies & my record setting 2006 stock rotating assembly 5.7 Dodge Daytona that put 426 RWHP & 460 RWTQ to the ground while still getting 26 MPG on the Hi-way. I can see that you are the type that doubts anything that you haven't tried & stick to all the old conventional wisdom that sometimes isn't all that wise. When you do evertyhing the same as everyone else, you will always be following the pack. I usually have the pack following me. I for one would rather not heat a poisonous substance like glycol anti-freeze in a crock pot. A bottle of DPD is less than $3 & will clean a lot of engines as well as dirty pots & such. Weak acid solutions (vinegar is an acid) have been use commercially to clean & brighten aluminum [/quote] When your done painting it with BBQ paint could you soak the freshly painted parts in a tub full of (15% Cool Power is all I use. No castor, 100% synthetic.) so we can see what they look like?
Posted on: 8/6/2012 5:52 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11183457

RE: OS BGX-1 Glow to Gas Conversion (Yeah!) Thanks Max
[quote]ORIGINAL: opjose To anyone who is using Max's kit... How is the sensor ring supposed to be mounted? My sensor ring does not look like the one in the instructions Max e-mailed me. Worst still if I orient the ring as per the instructions with the ''adjustment screw'' facing straight up in relation to the head, then the ring is restricted by the carb mount... See attached picture. [/quote] You've got it about 90 degrees off.... [b]orient the ring as per the instructions with the ''adjustment screw'' facing straight up in relation to the head[/b][color=#0000FF][/color] Adjustment screw straight up and down like the way the piston travels. [:D]
Posted on: 8/6/2012 5:05 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11183413

RE: OS BGX-1 Glow to Gas Conversion (Yeah!) Thanks Max
Yea, There's a drag strip in Bithlo not far from me. I'm thinking along the same lines. I've got 4 gallons of Blendzall green label. It should last me a while.
Posted on: 8/3/2012 4:49 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11180104

RE: OS BGX-1 Glow to Gas Conversion (Yeah!) Thanks Max
[quote]ORIGINAL: challenger_i I believe he is using the 499 because it works better with alki fuels (larger porting, for the venturi size). Also, from my experience, having a slightly smaller venturi will make more torque. [/quote] Yep, if I can run a 20" WWI type propeller on it using FAI glow fuel I'll be happy. I've run it on the bench and it's a very smooth running engine. It looks like Bisson is making a new muffler for this engine as well. It appears to have more volume than the first one they made.
Posted on: 8/3/2012 2:40 PM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179970

RE: OS BGX-1 Glow to Gas Conversion (Yeah!) Thanks Max
It's made from Delrin. http://www2.dupont.com/Plastics/en_US/Products/Delrin/Delrin.html It's pretty tough stuff, it holds threads well.
Posted on: 8/3/2012 3:36 AM by Author "Broken Wings" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179388