RE: mini servos in .40 sized plane a no-no?
Well, guys, I would hate to suggest to the OP that any micro servo will do the job. It would take a very close look of the make-up of the particular servo (we don't know what he is using, do we..) so saying that using micro servos on any control surface of a 40 size plane is not necessarily appropriate. As I originally said, in my opinion, and for the cost of the darned things, a standard servo would be the minimum. CGr.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 6:04 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263618

RE: Throttle Servo Setup
I didn't say I flew it, I flew IN it. What can you do when the airline you fly on uses "fly-by-wire"? [X(] [;)] Mike, Don, perhaps my emphasis was to point out the "square" position of the servo arm to the servo. This is, of course, assuming that the servo is square in the tray and square to the fuselage. That's the way I try to mount them. Now, please consider that I've been in this hobby for considerably less time than the true experts have been, and what I tried to explain was what I experienced and tried to practice. The important point that I really wanted to spell out is that the servo movement must not conflict with the movement of the throttle arm, they must be consistent and equal. The servo must not push the throttle linkage any further than it can move or else binding and severe battery depletion is an absolute. It will just plain happen. So, when I set up my throttle, it's probably the most time I spend on any of the linkage setup's because when the throttle stop stops.. well, that's it. If the servo keeps moving, well, it will not, or it will flex the linkage, or it will twist the servo, it will bind and cause problems. Every one of the suggestions provided in this link will most likely work (mine did.. does) in your application, but a little brain function is necessary to make it work for the application at hand given the equipment in use. Servo's provide movement in some arc of the circle, and I guess not all are the same. The trick here is to make your servo work, regardless of who makes it, for your application. The best advice is to work with it and spend some time with it. It's not just a "throw it together and hope it works" situation because that is an invitation to disaster. CGr.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 5:54 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263595

RE: Throttle Servo Setup
Yeah, that makes sense, Minn. Now why didn't I think of that... [:D] Just kidding, of course. At some point, we'll have all the methods and can make an application for each installation. The hardest part of this, because all throttles and servo's are not created equal, is finding the right method that allows full throttle from min throttle/no trim, to full throttle/full trim AND do that without causing a binding servo. Now, that's the trick to this whole thing. You want the throttle to move from end stop to end stop without actually trying to move beyond the throttle stops. That causes binds and will drain a battery very quickly. In fact, in some situations, if the bind is severe enough, you can see the servo want to twist after the servo arms reaches throttle stops. CGr.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 1:39 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9262959

RE: Throttle Servo Setup
Hi Irish. Weeeeellll... not exactly.. [;)] sort of doing a little tripple dipping right now. What's fer breakfast this AM? Doing any flying today? I did some in the big bird yesterday (Airbus AB320 from Tampa to Philadelphia) CGr.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 6:43 AM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9262246

RE: mini servos in .40 sized plane a no-no?
Using it for the throttle is just fine, but I would avoid it for the ailerons unless it's a higher torque type of mini servo. It might work ok, but what you might experience with it is soft reactions with control surfaces in high-G maneuvers. If it were me, I woujld stick with standard servos for glow control surfaces for that size plane. Consider this: You are doing a loop, and as pass over the top, you are headed down. So, you might pull oh the elevator to help out with the loop shape, but it doesn't do anything, so you pull harder.. next thing you know, you're nose is buried about 10 inches in the ground. For $10.00 each, it's just not worth taking a chance. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=94102Z (11.99 for this perfectly adequate servo). or this one: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH288&P=ML (10.99, again for this perfectly adequatge servo). I'm sure there are others. CGr.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 6:41 AM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9262243

RE: Throttle Servo Setup
Wow, rgm762 !! I'm glad you found that posting. I hated to re-write the whole thing again!! [:D] CGr.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 5:51 AM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9262217

RE: How to handle a difficult pilot!
I see it as two separate problems here. The first is flying without following the club rules. I must admit, if someone shows up, out of the blue, and starts flying at this nice field, when no one is there, well, as the saying goes, if a tree falls in the woods and there is no one there to hear it, does it make any noise? If the club rules are not posted, then there is no way a new person can know the rules. In this situation, the person KNOWS the rules, and chooses to ignore them. That's a problem. And if the club has no agreement with the county, then enforcement of the rules is going to be tough. This person sounds like a trouble maker and a non-conformest and short of having the person removed for trespassing, well, it's going to have to be a club position to take as far as visitors are concerned, and as Combatpig noted, get together with the county officials and establish rules, if they are willing to do so. The other issus are the threats and difficult situation he puts you in. I can tell you this... at the very first indication of threats of personal injury, he would be talking to the police in short order, AND, if witnesses are present, I would, in a New York Minute, press charges. I've done it before and it immediately diffused the situation. Once you "push back" with a legal threat, that tends to change the agressor to an agressee right fast. And if it doesn't, well, that's up to the police to deal with. And, if it continues, well, there is a such thing as a restraining order that will prevent the person from coming anywere near you personally, and the club in general. CGr.
Posted on: 11/17/2009 8:03 AM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259774

RE: 2-56 vs 4-40
I'm pretty sure they are for Pattern, but I am not sure about IMAC or IMAA.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 8:37 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258893

RE: 2-56 vs 4-40
Ah, carbon fiber arrow shafts. Great idea. Hi Irish. Yeah, that's a great practice too. But, often the ARF's come pre-drilled or some already have the tubes installed, so it sort of goes against the grain to re-install. But a good idea, nonetheless. CGr.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 4:28 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258280

RE: Kids - 5 year old how to get him started
HI Jim. Yeah, and it takes some time for them to realize that the control sticks are not on-off switches.. [:D] CGr
Posted on: 11/16/2009 7:22 AM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9257178

RE: 2-56 vs 4-40
Hi Don. You are absolutely correct. The push part of the pull-push rods is where the lighter rods have the disadvantage. On the Tiger 60, it was the same thing but with different hardware. Once I hard pointed the Sullivan rod casings, it was fine. But, they will flex under stress. With bottom mounted hadware on the elevator, a climb is a push and that's when they flex and really get spongy to ineffective. As I said, the extra few grams of weight will not hurt Glow applications and where needed, well, 4-40 hardware is a good decision. CGr.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 7:20 AM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9257176

RE: my first time!
Oh, ain't that the truth!!! I could open up a hobby shop with all the "stuff" i've collected over the years...[8|] [;)] CGr.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 9:00 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256287

RE: DX7 ???
Yeah, Bill, I've had some issues with a re-bind or binding a new aircraft RX to the transmitter. It often comes down to the procedure followed. Now, I won't say that I messed it up, but it's a pretty good bet.. [X(] [:D] CGr.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 8:57 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256277

RE: Kids - 5 year old how to get him started
Well, Jim, I'm not sure you want to get him started on that nice looking Jet.. [:D] but one point to consider is the attention span of youngsters. You might try him out on a simulator first to see if he will follow through with what is going on, then maybe a good entry level trainer as noted by RCKen in the sticky post at the beginning of the Beginners Forum. I've flown several of the ones in that list and can vouch for the fact that they are all just fine for training. Make darned sure you are set up with a buddy box and let him fly at least 3 mistakes high and watch him to see if he is distracted easily or can focus on the plane. That's going to be the greatest challenge for you at this point. Best of luck. CGr.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 8:54 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256269

RE: Pull Pull Rudder
We can't wait to hear how you make out, Bill! Good luck with the project. CGr.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 8:50 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256259

RE: 2-56 vs 4-40
Consider the stress and strain that is put on some of the hardware we use. Ailerons, for instance, have short runs of the piano wire between the servo and the horn. Although this length is short, if you are working with a plane that has high G forces, or high stresses on the control surfaces, the wire could flex and reduce the effectiveness of the control surface. In a different situation, I had a Tiger 60 that originally had the wood dowl type linkage for the elevator and rudder. I replaced it with Sullivan Goldenrods, 2-56 size. When I first flew it with this linkage, I found that when I would pull hard on the elevator, it sort of squished out the maneuver and the elevator was fairly ineffective. I didn't know what it was until I took a close look at the setup. I found that the rods were inside of the tubes, but the tubes were not secure well enough to prevent bowing of the rods due to stress of the elevator inputs in high-G maneuvers. I ended up removing the bottom covering from the fuselage and applying epoxy at every former to secure the tube well enough to prevent this flexing. As a result of this, I tend to over-do the linkages to all control surfaces, and where it calls for 2-56, I just use 4-40. But, I still use the Sullivan rods, but carefully secure the rods to the formers to prevent any flexing. This is one of those choices that are pretty much personal. What the manufacturer recommends is usually pretty much right on, but it never hurts to take that little extra step and make things stronger. There are some instances where 4-40 hardware is REQUIRED. For instance, I believe Pattern 2 meter planes, the association requires the use of 4-40 hardware. Your choice, but with glow, you pretty much have enough power to not to have to worry about the extra weight of the heavier hardware. Now, this is my personal opinion, which will more than likely go against what some others may recommend. It becomes a personal choice for some, but a requirement for others, especially when considering competition aircraft. Check out the requirements, or what you intend to do with that aircraft then choose appropriately. CGr.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 8:47 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256242

RE: New Here
Ditto.. ditto. You will find all sorts of people here willing and able to help. Some times you have to sift through the information because there are often varying opinions in replies to questions and situations presented here. But, don't be afraid to ask. As usual, the only "stupid" question is often the one that was not asked. Welcome aboard!! CGr.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 8:08 AM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9254821

RE: Pull Pull Rudder
To make life simpler, Bill, the bottom line is to center the servo, make the attachements with the straightest connection between the servo and the control horns, and then don't try to remove 100% of the slack. It just won't happen. I use a vinyl coated cevlar cord (see link below). Great stuff, comes in two sizes. I threw away the steel cable stuff, in favor of this cevlar cord. It's strong, but very easy to manipulate and to tie knots with (hey, Coast Guard Retired, remember? ha.. oops) And, if and when it may become frayed, and it can and will happen, it's easy to replace. http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=580 They make different thicknesses. This one is .038" but there is.058 I believe and other thicknesses. Of course, there are the physics of the connections. Use the same conrol horns on both sides, do your best to make sure the control horns are mounted in as close to exactly the same position on the left as on the right (and, of course, vice versa.. [;)] ) and then make sure you absolutely center the servo with your transmitter set to exact center with the trim at as close to center as possible.. then make the connections WITH THE SERVO'S ENERGIZED. Use the strength of the servo to insure maintaining centering. Once done, you will have a well centered and balanced pull-pull rudder installation. Oh my gosh.. next project.. having a pull-pull elevator AND an pull-pull rudder ( as in the Excelleron 90 installation.. quite a challenge!!) CGr.
Posted on: 11/14/2009 9:26 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9254184

RE: Rant about getting started
One of the most important observations that I've made with some of the younger students is that they tend to have very short attention spans. Then, most of them are in the "game mode" which means that they tend to use the controls as on-off switches, meaning full left or full right when a finesse movement of the sticks is necessary, if not required. So, many of us feel that instructing youngsters, although is a good thing for the advancement of the hobby, and to introduce the younger generation to the hobby and to aviation, feel that it may be somewhat of a challenge than we anticipated. That may sound harsh, but consider what happens when we say "slight left" and the student pushes the stick to the stop and the plane banks to a point where it trys to roll then dives in, requiring the instructor to let go of the trainer button and save the aircraft. As I said, this isn't meant to be harsh, but is a reality. And, it is a product of the gaming generation where buttons are simply an on-off switches, without any, ANY finesse. You just can't fly these things without learning the finer points of control and how to make subtle movements of the sticks, rather than movements from full left to full right, or full up, or full down, or some combination of that, always to the stops or the full extent of stick movement. Again, I don't mean to sound harsh, but that's the reality of it. So, in this case, a "rant" is paid back with a "rant" of sorts. I am not directing this to the OP (original poster) but to some in general that are trying to learn to fly RC, and to try to offer an explanation the instructors that are trying to figure this out. The best thing you can do, at this point, is to get the help of an instructor, and follow his/her instructions to the fullest. Learn from what he/she is saying to you and follow those instructions. You will find, eventually, however short or long that time is, that, in reality, this is not as difficult as you figured it might be, but more of a lesson in learning and listening, and that little bit of finesse that is necessary to fly these complicated gizmo's. Best of luck. CGr.
Posted on: 11/14/2009 9:12 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9254152

RE: WANTED: Warbird movie suggestions
bogbeagle Ever been to Biggleswade, the Shuttleworth Collection? http://www.shuttleworth.org/ If you have not, then this is one place really worth a visit. I went there a few years ago based on a recommendation from a guy I was working with in Harlow. What a day I had!! They flew all of those restored aircraft including the Comet!! CGr. Sorry to be off subject..
Posted on: 11/4/2009 2:48 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227966

RE: WANTED: Warbird movie suggestions
I've got Strategic Air Command (That's a Jimmy Stewart movie I think) on VHS. Twelve O'Clock High is a classic. And, used by many companies as a motivation and leadership training film. CGr.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 8:16 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9223667

RE: WANTED: Warbird movie suggestions
The movie Baa Baa Black Sheep was what spawned the TV series. It's out there.. somewhere. Check Amazon.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 7:11 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9223495

RE: WANTED: Warbird movie suggestions
Flying Tigers (John Wayne) (pre WW-II pilot in China) Flying Leathernecks (John Wayne) (WW-II Marine Corps Pilot, F4U's) The Jet Pilot (John Wayne) Post Korean War Baa Baa Black Sheep (Robert Conrad) (The story of Pappy Boyington, F4U's) Eagle Squadron (WW-II Americans flighting during the Battle of Brittain) Fighter Squadron (P-47's in WW-II Europe) 1941 (Comedy.. John Bellushi) Memphis Bell (True story of a bomber crew and their survival) Want more?
Posted on: 11/2/2009 6:59 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9223449

RE: BE careful w/ chinese generic servos
Well, for the sake of a few dollars, I just decided to stick with what I know. I've bought many Airtronics serovs. Generally, I get the ball bearing coreless servos. But, their basic servo, which is a bushing type, can be bought for around $10.00 each and is an great servo. I also have a few Futaba's and a few Spektrum's in my collection. There is a hitec or two in the mix, mostly micro servos for my electrics. I did strip out the gears on one of the micro's a while back, but it was a throw away item, which I did, and I simply replaced it, in kind. There are a lot of good products coming from across that big blue pond, but there also is some junk. I prefer not to bother to wade through and just pick what I know and that's Airtronics, Futaba, Spektrum, and Hitec. When it comes to servos and receivers, well, I perfer to stick with something I can trust. CGr.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 2:39 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222822

RE: Real Flight G5...
I must agree, Ken. I have three.. count em.. three controllers for the Realflights I've bought only to get an upgrade. So, I was not going to get the newest one because of that, until now. I don't have a problem paying their asking price for the upgrade without the controller. None at all. I have three USB controllers as well as the older one that used the modified 9 pin serial port. So, my order is going in to Tower this afternoon. CGr.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 12:37 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222536

RE: Real Flight G5...
Just to add a little fuel this fire... [X(] [:D] Tower has noted that Real Flight is offering an "upgrade" option from 3.5 on up for $79.00. You get the DVD but no controller. That's not a bad deal. But, I won't debate what is good or bad as far as simulators is concerned because I have always said that they are a tool, but no substitution for the real thing. CGr.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 8:55 AM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222108

RE: BUSTED CA HINGE
All of my planes, even my two pattern planes, have CA hinges. If they are installed correctly, and are of good quality, the are just fine. CGr.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 8:02 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221064

RE: ESC/motor/prop combos
This is one of the best threads I've seen in a while with lots of great information for electric enthusiasts. I've learned a lot and had quite a bit of reinforcement for what I"ve been doing wiith mine. Some of the ideas passed in this thread are things that many of us take for granted, for instance 20% overhead is something that many just overlook. The energy consumed by heat is basically wasted energy because it does not contribute to aircraft performance. if the wattmeter is placed in the right spot (between the battery and the ESC for instance, the wattage consumed by the ESC and Motor due to heat is shown. If it's placed after the ESC, well, what the ESC uses up in heat is not included in the wattmeter measurement. So, that 20% factor comes in handy when calculating the right battery pack, esc, and motor combination. CGr
Posted on: 10/31/2009 10:21 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9218810

RE: Electric pro?
Yeah, if the prop doesn't come apart. CGr
Posted on: 10/31/2009 4:03 PM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9218022

RE: ESC/motor/prop combos
The only thing I might add is that when calculating the weight of the plane, you really need to include everything: airframe, motor, esc, batteries, servos, receiver.. everything. Obvious, you don't know some of this stuff because you don't have them in your hot-little-fist yet, but that can also be a swag, but usually, you can get pretty close to do the calcs. CGr.
Posted on: 10/29/2009 11:18 AM by Author "CGRetired" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9212119