RE: Deployed flaps plane stalled and crashed
I put flaps on a rotary knob and do what was suggested - mix in elevator as needed. One of my stiks floats too much on landing so I actually raise the flaps about 5 degrees to make the plane come in more solid. It's still slow but not as floaty.
Posted on: 5/18/2013 9:16 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515163

RE: How to Fiberglass ?
I'm still around and not getting any model-airplane related stuff done. In fact, I had photos for a half-dozen articles and lost them all somehow. Almost every second of my free time is spent making fixtures. So business is good but no time to actually build anything. As to the topic, I never think glassing a solid fuselage is a bad idea if for no other reason than to ensure it's absolutely fuel-proof. I started and left the hobby for years more than once and always came back with a new trainer. Several of them had glassed fuselages with Monokote on the wings. It doesn't add a lot of weight and it's probably the simplest thing to glass since it's flat all the way around. I also glassed the tail feathers. On the down side it does cost more and take more time. If you have never flown and don't have natural ability then you probably will crash your plane a few times and it might not be worth the effort to initially glass and paint and then repair. Film repairs are child's play compared to repairing paint.
Posted on: 9/1/2012 11:12 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11214144

RE: Biggest Boat-Anchor of an Airplane EVER!
Thanks, AmishWarlord. I think they used to call themselves Airfield Models and have now changed it. I could be wrong about that. I still get emails about people needing propellers.
Posted on: 7/8/2012 7:39 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147404

RE: Great Planes F4 Phantom
Sorry, but I have no clue who made that. I knew people who made their own molds for models like that. Maybe a couple were built but never kitted. Could be something like that.
Posted on: 4/28/2012 1:38 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11060366

RE: Great Planes F4 Phantom
Tim - I don't think Royal made fiberglass planes. It could be a Jet Hanger Hobbies or Bob Violett kit. What type of engine does it use? Does it have a prop in front or back or does it have a ducted fan?
Posted on: 4/28/2012 12:47 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11060335

RE: aliphatic resin vs cyanoacrylic
I think Zor is right. I have RC56 and Weldbond and they seem identical to me. It's good stuff but I've noticed it stays a little flexible. That's good for some things but I don't know how much I would trust it for things where the glue area is small and the part may be flexing. For example, I'm not sure I would trust it for truss-work. It's probably fine but the only way I'd have to test it is to actually build a model with it and see if it holds together.
Posted on: 2/13/2012 5:15 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10956605

RE: aliphatic resin vs cyanoacrylic
G8er - Raw ntiro will break down CA but it's really nothing to worry about unless you're using 30% fuel and pouring it raw all over exposed glue joints. I generally don't recommend doing that. :)
Posted on: 2/11/2012 9:43 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10954964

RE: woodworking issues
If you're going to buy a thickness sander then get the one from Jim Byrnes. It uses sheets of sandpaper instead of drums which means you aren't beholden to whatever is available. Also the Byrnes table saw is FAR, FAR superior to the Microlux. It doesn't tilt but he has a tilt table accessory. I have both these items as well as the Microlux table saw. I don't have the microlux thickness sander. I can tell you for an absolute fact that if you have the Byrnes tools you can get within .001" to .002" accuracy. I am not kidding. For the saw you need the micrometer but I would buy both these tools from him again in a heartbeat. I wouldn't buy another microlux saw. Mine has too many problems.
Posted on: 11/25/2011 9:37 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10828387

RE: Four Stroke Engine in Tower Trainer .60
Are you using the propeller washer?
Posted on: 10/21/2011 3:37 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10776565

RE: Four Stroke Engine in Tower Trainer .60
The only real problem I can think of is that your plane could end up being really nose-heavy with no good way to correct it. You'll also have to be careful with your throttle so you don't flutter something off. Lastly, have an experienced builder look at the kit and see if he thinks you need to reinforce the nose to withstand the additional power. If you can afford it I would buy the .61 and leave the four-stroke for a future model that it's better suited for.
Posted on: 10/20/2011 7:07 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10774423

RE: Pull Pull Empenage
Just a note about the fairings. I made them from balsa but a time or two I had something connected to the end of the cable outside the fuselage and let it go. It then swung down and cut into the grain of the fairing about 1/4". After doing that more than once it left the edge of the fairing looking really ragged. So two lessons I learned: One, don't let go of the cable if you have a tail wheel or anything else with mass connected to it, and two, make the fairings out of hardwood. I'm using little scraps of maple now instead of balsa. It's not hard to work with and much more durable. It's pretty light when you get it carved out.
Posted on: 8/5/2011 6:45 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10656476

RE: A-Justo-Jig
Hi Jim, I do and it's been up a couple weeks. Same URL as the old stuff. http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/tools/magnetic_building_board/order_magnetic_fixtures.htm I plan on at least playing around with a wing jig design. Don't know if I'll come up with anything I would sell but that's a future project anyway. I just got a ton of wood from UPS about five minutes ago and it wants to be parts - thousands of parts. So I'll do what it asks and start cutting it up soon. :) - Paul
Posted on: 5/27/2011 10:04 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10543377

RE: Homemade (not RCM) wing jig designs?
I have been contemplating a method of incorporating a wing jig into my magnetic system for a while. I haven't put serious thought into it because all my time has been used developing the core system. I will be releasing my new system today (a little later) and at this time it does not have a dedicated wing jig. But it's on my list of things to do. Whether or not I release one and when it gets released if I do depends entirely on how complicated it is. I've found it takes a lot more effort to make something simple.
Posted on: 5/13/2011 5:20 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10517209

RE: Paint
Test ANY paint you plan to use by applying it to something non-porous and expendable. I use empty soda cans. Allow it to dry several days and then rub raw fuel on it. If the paint doesn't melt, bubble or do anything else bad then it's ok to use. Also, a lot of auto paints are really nasty - particularly 2-part paints. Protect yourself per the manufacturer's instructions.
Posted on: 3/24/2011 8:31 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10419750

RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead?
You can get dope from Sig Manufacturing or from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/randolphcoatings.html
Posted on: 6/12/2010 6:04 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9798709

RE: Fiberglass Finnishing
0.75 cloth will be fine. Last time I checked, Aerospace Composites sold 0.5 ounce cloth. http://www.acp-composites.com/home.php
Posted on: 6/11/2010 8:21 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9795855

RE: Biggest Boat-Anchor of an Airplane EVER!
Hi Dave, Thanks for the clarification. I'm not a company - Airfield Models is just my personal website. The only thing I sell are magnetic fixtures used to build model aircraft. It is disconcerting that someone took the name I created and used it to peddle a product that the majority here agree is junk. I should probably contact an attorney to see if there's anything I can do about it but since I didn't trademark the name Airfield Models there's probably not much I can do except hope people figure out that I'm not them. Thanks, - Paul PS. You'll enjoy planes you build yourself a lot more (see my site for details). :D
Posted on: 5/25/2010 9:53 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9757724

RE: Biggest Boat-Anchor of an Airplane EVER!
Daveb572 - Can you provide a link please? I am the webmaster for Airfield Models (www.airfieldmodels.com) and have no clue what you're talking about. I'm assuming some company is using this name and I am not associated with it. Thanks, - Paul K. Johnson
Posted on: 5/14/2010 10:17 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9733170

RE: Malyuta Avionics: How to design your own aircraft walkthrough
I didn't read it yet. I took a quick glance through it to see what was in it and will come back to it later. Normally I'm already building while I'm writing.
Posted on: 4/8/2010 1:45 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9646554

RE: Malyuta Avionics: How to design your own aircraft walkthrough
Are you ready to start building?
Posted on: 4/8/2010 1:34 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9646525

RE: Malyuta Avionics: How to design your own aircraft walkthrough
Well, I'm sitting here and I have eight more straight lines to draw. Then check it over, make copies and I'm ready to start building.
Posted on: 2/23/2010 12:07 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9528827

RE: Malyuta Avionics: How to design your own aircraft walkthrough
Well, you could put an appendix in to define your terms. Call MAC the Mostly Average Chord. :)
Posted on: 2/23/2010 11:27 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9528721

RE: Malyuta Avionics: How to design your own aircraft walkthrough
Daniel - You never answered my question about your use of the MAC in your first part. I didn't check your math but it looked like you were using the term when you mean average chord. So I'm confused. Are you using the MAC when you should be using the average chord or are you calling the average chord the MAC? You know they aren't the same thing, right?
Posted on: 2/23/2010 10:58 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9528631

RE: CorelDraw for Drafting
Ok, you guys are all smarter than me. I thought somebody would take the bait. The plan is the size I said - 500 square inches. This is being designed specifically for a .30 class engine. I have a Webra .32 which is very powerful but I could never get the transition to work well after the engine had been idling a while. I didn't spend much time working on it and gave up when the idle was still too rich with the needle all the way in. I'm going to back it out and try again. I ordered the E-Flite .10-.15 retracts and hopefully I can get them in there. The retracts should fit but there's a problem getting a fuel tank in at the same time as a nose gear. I may have to mold my own composite fuel tank. I've never done that before and think I can pull it off but I'll need to find out what kind of resin will hold up to glow fuel so my tank doesn't turn to gum during it's dissolving faze. In the mean time, I'm working on an even smaller version for my O.S. .15 CV-A. The gear is due here today so I'll get my first look at it in person. If I can get it in I'll use it. Otherwise this one will also be hand launched. Wing area is 300 inches with a 24" span. I expect this one to scream. I'm planning on putting a Macs pipe on it but don't have that yet. I'd like to us a QM15 prop but I'm very concerned that even with a strong launch the model won't pick up speed fast enough to not settle back into the ground. Test flights will be with a 7 x 6ish prop that I know will work. And thanks to the guys who volunteered to help me by CADing the airfoil. I haven't done any drafting for a while but in the past couple days I've refamiliarized myself with my precision curve-drawing stick. I'm pretty sure I can get the airfoil drawn accurately. I'd forgotten how easy it is to get the stick set up accurately so I don't think I'll have a problem.
Posted on: 2/18/2010 8:36 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9514458

RE: CorelDraw for Drafting
Alright, after a couple weeks of being bogged down in indecision (not to mention 5 drafts that are rolled up and tucked away), I have a final. Engine: OS 1.60 Gemini Twin Wingspan: 31" Wing Area: 500 square inches (actually 499 but who's counting) Will probably use these retracts: http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=11868 One photo shows original Thwing! over the plan. The leading edge is lined up so you can see the oodles of additional area that is gained. Original had a 28 1/2" span. Also I miscalculated the area of Thwing! My site says it's 400 squares but it's actually 453. So I'm adding about 50 square inches and going from a PJS 1200 outrunner to the OS 1.60. To get the kind of speed I want I'm going to need a 12d x 18p prop. I'll have to carve my own.
Posted on: 2/15/2010 6:56 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9505793

RE: CorelDraw for Drafting
Thanks. You should probably hold off on the airfoils and save yourself the trouble until I get this zeroed in better. The airfoil will definitely be symmetrical with a thick point at 33%. I can try to scan the original airfoil and send it to you if you can turn it into a vector drawing.
Posted on: 2/9/2010 10:12 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9491535

RE: CorelDraw for Drafting
Do you have experience with the Gemini 1.60? What area would you recommend? I don't mind a higher wing loading. The plane will land slow enough. wing thickness is the 3.5-4" range for the root and about 1.25-1.5 for the tip. Take a look at the first photo for thwing here: http://www.airfieldmodels.com/gallery_of_models/rc/thwing!/
Posted on: 2/9/2010 10:41 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9489561

RE: CorelDraw for Drafting
John - Thank you for the info. The real issue for me is that this plane is out of my realm as far as size goes. My normal range is 1/2A to .90. I don't have any practical experience with this engine and I don't know how accurately I can predict the finished weight. I don't even know what retracts I will use, much less how much they weigh. The other issue is CG. I know as size goes up so does weight behind the CG. The saving grace is that the entire center section will be pretty much available so I can shift the pack from anywhere behind the fuel tank to the extreme aft of the model. I'm guessing the plane will come in between 10 and 14 lbs (probably close to 14). I put together a spread sheet that scales every important part of the plane simply by changing the chord of the root rib. 36" Chord = 48" span and 1268 squares. At 10# 18 oz/ft sq. At 14# 25 oz/ft sq. 38" Chord = 50" span and 1412 squares. At 10# 16 oz/ft sq. At 14# 23 oz/ft sq. 40" Chord = 53" span and 1565 squares. At 10# 15 oz/ft sq. At 14# 21 oz/ft sq. 45" Chord = 60" span and 1981 squares. At 10# 12 oz/ft sq. At 14# 16 oz/ft sq. I just put some vellum down and am roughing in the 38" chord version. By the way, I recall my buddy saying the PJS 1000 was roughly equivalent to a .21. I'm not sure of that. I'd put it closer to a good .15. When using the .21 my calculations give me approx. 1500 squares. Using the .15 my calculations give me over 2000. I just put the engine on the drawing and my first instinct is that even the 38" is too big. It just looks like a whole lot of wing for that engine. I really want this plane to scoot and I don't want to spend several hundred hours designing and building and end up with a majestic floater.
Posted on: 2/9/2010 10:08 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9489484

RE: K&E Drafting Machine
Attached is more or less how I'm envisioning this rib being built.
Posted on: 2/7/2010 11:01 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9484208

RE: K&E Drafting Machine
Forgot my point. Until I know the area I won't know the root chord.
Posted on: 2/7/2010 10:42 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9484151