RE: painting over balsa surfaces
Your choices have all been described pretty well. I have nothing to add except that I didn't see anywhere you said what your standard of finish is. Choices are: A) quick and easy with grain showing. Don't cover, don't fill the grain. Just spray on a fuel-proof paint. B) Less quick and less easy and heavier with maybe grain showing and maybe not. Fill the grain, sand, fill some more, sand some more, paint. The grain will probably show later but not as badly as choice A. If the gods smile on you then maybe you'll never see grain again but our gods don't tend to be that benevolent. C) Or harder and more time consuming but best shot of grain free and lighter than all other except maybe very quick and very easy with lots of grain showing. Cover the model, fill weave, sand, fill some more, maybe fill and sand some more, paint. Best finish at lightest weight. It's the most work. Pick your poison.
Posted on: 11/4/2009 1:37 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227823

RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead?
Actually, the reason I didn't go into doping the wing was because I had a lot of things coming up and I had several new articles to post. I couldn't post any without posting all. So knowing that I might be delayed a month I decided to post what I had. Then I did have time to dope the wing and was hoping to have the article finished this weekend. Instead I'm back to sealing the wing. I noticed the silk didn't shrink that much as you mentioned. I said at the beginning of the article I've only used habotai silk but I think that's wrong. I have used Sig and K & B silk in the past and I assumed they were the same thing I bought from Thai Silks but they might be different. The silk I'm using now seems to have a much tighter weave and it stays together very well. Oh, and a great tip I discovered. Some of the weave had come slightly apart throughout the process and I thought I was stuck with it. When I vacuumed the wing with a brush after the silk was applied I ran the brush along the span and it pulled most of the weave back together like it never happened. That was totally unexpected and a very nice surprise.
Posted on: 7/25/2009 12:31 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8962727

RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead?
Thanks Anthony, What the article doesn't say is that I ended up stripping off all that silk. When I doped it, it turned almost orange and I REALLY didn't like the color. The articles were posted before that happened and I really wasn't expecting it. I've sanded it all back down and have one more base coat of dope to apply. Then a little sanding and put on the new silk. That will be the last part of the article series and I'll explain what happened to the original silk so people aren't confused about why the wing changed color. :)
Posted on: 7/25/2009 12:08 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8962684

RE: Let’s discuss facts about stall-spin
Dude, discussions about stalls have nothing to do with politics. It's a proven fact that Dick Cheney is the source of all stall behavior. Case closed. :D
Posted on: 7/24/2009 2:03 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8960612

RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead?
This is a really good thread. I'm going to link to it from my site. I just posted an article this past weekend on how to silk a wing. I didn't realize so many people were still using doped finishes. I never see any at my field. Any of you silk and dope experts who see any glaring flaws in my article please let me know. This is the first time I've silked anything since about 1977 so I'm way out of practice. http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/finishing_techniques/silk_a_wing/index.htm
Posted on: 7/24/2009 10:47 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8960176

RE: Fuse Doubling Question
The Firewall will be reinforced with a doubler added later and probably some tri-stock.
Posted on: 7/22/2009 9:12 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8956059

RE: Thanks for all the SSE help
Very well done and a nice way to come back. :)
Posted on: 7/22/2009 3:57 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8955175

RE: Fuse Doubling Question
That's the only reason I said anything. Titebond will be fine but you really need to leave it weighted until the glue is really dry. Epoxy should be left too but if you get impatient then epoxy is more forgiving. If you want to eliminate clean-up then put tape next to the line, put the parts together, give the glue time to squeeze out and then peel off the tape. Not the same thing, but the same idea: Tape before: http://www.airfieldmodels.com/gallery_of_models/rc/wermachts_scorpion/images/wallpaper/17685.jpg After: http://www.airfieldmodels.com/gallery_of_models/rc/wermachts_scorpion/images/wallpaper/17687.jpg
Posted on: 7/22/2009 3:53 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8955167

RE: Fuse Doubling Question
I don't see anything wrong with how you did it. But Titebond is water-based. If somebody else does the same thing you did and they use too much glue and don't clamp long enough the fuselage sides will probably warp pretty badly. I would have used epoxy instead of titebond. But you knew what you were doing it sounds like so it worked out well.
Posted on: 7/22/2009 3:25 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8955103

RE: Great Planer Revolver building need help. Aileron tabs problem
You can try to fix the problem as MinnFlyer suggested but you may want to contact Great Planes. The fact is you received a warped model. Warps are defects and they should send you a new wing.
Posted on: 7/22/2009 3:22 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8955092

RE: wing stress test
The wing may be fine and it may not. As has been said, there are two ways you can know for certain: 1) Fly the plane. If it breaks then you know it wasn't fine. :) 2) Pull the covering and maybe some of the center sheeting and whatever you need to pull to see everything you need to see. A wing like that is about as easy to build as a wing can get. If it's an ARF you may be able to buy a replacement wing.
Posted on: 7/22/2009 3:01 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8955034

RE: Let’s discuss facts about stall-spin
Is it tail-heavy?
Posted on: 7/22/2009 2:24 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8954933

RE: Let’s discuss facts about stall-spin
There are three discussions going on. One person, the thread starter, is explaining how stalls work. A couple other people are saying you can avoid all stalls with the right plane. And one other person is saying you can avoid all stalls with the right kind of flying. So I'll contribute my views. If you know how to stall your plane right you can have a lot of fun with it. Also, the idea that a plane needs to be heavier to fly in strong wind is bovine feces. If the plane is strong enough to fly and has a wing loading low enough to ride the wind, then the wind won't break the plane. If that same plane has the power to pull through the wind then the plane can go wherever it wants.
Posted on: 7/22/2009 1:11 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8954751

RE: What works best for cutting out parts?
The Superior Puzzle blade makes a beautiful cut in balsa and aircraft ply at least up to 1/4" (for the ply). But it's so fine that it takes some practice to get it under control. The FD-IM No. 9 23 tpi metal blade works well. It has no reverse teeth. I also like the FD-SR No. 3 13 tpi reverse blade. Mike is a really nice guy and will work with you to get you the right blades. He does entirely different kind of work than we do so he couldn't make a lot of suggestions but he sent me a nice assortment of blades. When I found the blades I like best I went back and ordered a gross (144) of the each of them which means I'm set for a while. Keep in mind these are fine blades - not the coarse stuff you find in hardware stores. They break easily. If you let your machine do the work and don't jam wood into the blade the blades last longer. - To those complaining about scroll saws.... If your saw is giving you that much trouble something is very wrong. Either your saw is poor quality to begin with, it's not secured well and vibrating all over the place, your blades suck, or something. Scroll saws are very easy to use and very user-friendly. They wouldn't be my first choice for a long, straight cut but they're still a great tool for model-builders.
Posted on: 4/29/2009 8:09 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8725245

RE: What works best for cutting out parts?
In addition to what was said above you definitely need better blades. Local stores generally don't sell blades that work well on balsa. Try Mike's Workshop. http://www.mikesworkshop.com/
Posted on: 4/28/2009 8:17 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8721937

RE: A-Justo-Jig
I would just stack the ribs and then use a drill press.
Posted on: 1/25/2009 11:22 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8398851

RE: A-Justo-Jig
You have to draw a straight line spanwise on the wing and use it as a reference line. If a spar is perpendicular to the fuselage centerline you can use it as your reference.
Posted on: 1/25/2009 11:06 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8398784

RE: Magnetic Building Board
I bought a carbide scriber to do my board. I have a long T-square but for the life of me I can't get it actually square so I haven't marked my board yet. Plus the scribing will go through the coated surface which means the scribed lines will rust. Will probably be fine though - bright orange lines on a gray board. :) The board is 3' x 6' and I want a 1/4" grid. I'm not looking forward to it so I'm not in any big hurry to do it. For now I just draw lines on it with a sharpie as needed.
Posted on: 1/14/2009 4:19 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8358041

RE: Magnetic Building Board
MasterAlex - the stuff about the building boards is fairly new. It's only been on the site for a couple months. Before that I just said buy a good board and didn't go into much detail. Personally, I think a permanent board is probably best but I don't like doing general work over metal. When I toss tools around my workbench, having them scratching up my metal board sends shivers down my spine. If I had a building bench and a general work bench then I think I'd have a permanent metal surface on the building bench. I'll bet drawing the grid on your board was a lot of fun. :)
Posted on: 1/14/2009 4:10 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8358004

RE: Magnetic Building Board
[quote]ORIGINAL: joemomma69 I wish ole boy at airfield did not charge so much for his fixtures.[/quote] One of these days when I can afford a CNC router I will be able to charge less. I wish I didn't have to charge so much but they are extremely labor-intensive.
Posted on: 1/14/2009 8:16 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8356601

RE: Magnetic Building Board
I get a lot of inquiries about what to do about steel building boards. Most guys have this idea that a thick plate is the best way to go.... and it is if you have $5,000 to spend getting it fly-cut and welded to a square frame. For the rest of us with regular building benches, a thin sheet is the way to go. My boards are less than 1/16" thick and they are not permanently mounted because when I'm not using magnets the boards are mostly in the way. So I want to be able to get them off the bench when not in use. Thinner = lighter. They also can not support their own weight. They lay flat on the bench with no help at all - no screws, no glue, no double-sided tape or anything else. I lay them there and build. Because I was getting so many inquiries about the boards I wrote up a bit about it on my site where you can read a longer winded version of what I just said: http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/tools/magnetic_building_board/index.htm#Building_Board
Posted on: 1/14/2009 8:15 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8356599

RE: Magnetic Building Board - Took the plunge
I use the grid all the time because I scratch build and almost never over plans. The grid is EXTREMELY helpful. My suggestion is you get together with a buddy for an afternoon and scribe a 1/4" grid. It will be a tedious thing to do and take a while, but you'll be VERY happy that you did it (unless you never scratch build). The other option is to buy the board from Great Planes. I don't know if they sell it by itself but I'd contact them and find out because it's probably worth it to have it done for you. Assuming your grid is accurate then all you have to do is build the fuselage over a center line. Then adjust each pair of fixtures so they are equal distant from the center line around the fuselage. This makes it very easy to zero in a dead symmetrical fuselage.
Posted on: 11/23/2008 12:07 PM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8175164

RE: A-Justo-Jig
OK, I stand corrected. I'm sure I didn't receive that with my jig. I've never seen it before.
Posted on: 9/25/2008 8:11 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7988917

RE: A-Justo-Jig
The instructions on my site (airfield models) are the only instructions that came with my jig which included the wing and fuselage jig. I don't think there was a separate fuselage jig instruction set.
Posted on: 9/25/2008 7:52 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7988886

RE: Ugly Stik build from internet plans
NO!!! Use balsa. Foam board is heavy. You're talking about FoamCor, right? The stuff with cardstock laminated on both sides of foam?
Posted on: 8/17/2008 7:49 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7854726

RE: Ugly Stik build from internet plans
[quote]ORIGINAL: hammerd "Just curious, none of my business and all that! But, why aren't you building another Stick?" Been there, done that. :) I need to build something different to keep my interest. Here's a peak at what I'm working on now. Dummy engine. As soon as I have the airframe started, I'll start a build thread for it. [image]http://www.covingtonswoodworking.com/Photos/Stik/112.jpg[/image] [/quote] That's a really cool looking can! What's that thing in front of it? :D
Posted on: 8/16/2008 5:01 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7851545

RE: Ugly Stik build from internet plans
[quote]ORIGINAL: starcad [quote]ORIGINAL: CafeenMan I don't know this plan but I do know a lot of "internet" plans are "air" plans. In other words, drawn but never built. You did a really nice job on yours. It's heart-breaking having your pride and joy get injured but that's one of the things I harp on at my website - paint allows you to make a plan look brand
Posted on: 8/13/2008 8:01 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7840566

RE: Ugly Stik build from internet plans
For whatever reason, the more work and TLC one puts into a plane, the shorter its life. Sorry about your plane. On the bright side, now you have an excuse to build a better one. :)
Posted on: 8/7/2008 8:30 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7819020

RE: Yet another Sig Something Extra Build
Oh, and get your Hobbylite back out of the trash. You're right, it's an incompatibility issue not a defect of the product. And remember, kids... ALWAYS test for compatibility before committing your model to it. iron eagel - from the wood out, what is the finish? All dope? Is it silked?
Posted on: 7/30/2008 10:04 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7788192

RE: Yet another Sig Something Extra Build
iron eagel - Step One: You have a couple choices. Option 1) You can remove all the finish in the area of the putty including the putty. All the way back down to bare wood unless you glassed the wood before you puttied. In that case get as close to the glass as you can without damaging it. Now just redo that area using a different putty. I'm not sure what to recommend because I haven't read enough of this thread to know what finish you're using. Option 2) Remove the finish on the entire fillet. Start from scratch as above. You can try to make the fillet completely blend in as you've done or you can put masking tape around the fillet to give it a "lip" and make it look like it's a separate piece that has a perfect fit. Nuclear Option: Remove the entire fillet and sand fuselage down to bare wood. Start with a new fillet or give them up and finish the fillet area to match the state of the rest of the finish on the fuselage. Give them a final blending coat of paint if necessary. Calvin Option (MUCH more devastating than Nuclear Option): Crumble the model up in your hands, throw it against the wall, grimace while tearing your hair out and abuse yourself verbally while a supposed friend stands close by and makes a joke about it. Bush Option: Break somebody else's plane.
Posted on: 7/30/2008 10:00 AM by Author "CafeenMan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7788183