RE: Storing Glow Engines (2 & 4 stroke)
"Pickle" the engine. Remove the glow plug, then squirt some after run oil into the cylinder AND the carb. Turn the engine over ny hand 5 or 6 times. FILL the cylinder and crankcase with after run oil and place in a zip lock bag. The engine is protected and will store for years like that. It is a bit messy when you go to use it. You will need to clean the oil off the outside and flush the oil out of the cylinder and crankcase with glow fuel. When you start the engine it will smoke for a few minutes, but then be fine. I recently pulled out an OS 52 4 stroke stored like that for about 3 years. The only other thing I did was to remove the valve covers to make sure the valves were not sticking. It took me about 1 hour (using glow fuel and a toothbrush) to get the oil off the outside of the engine, then I went over it again with denatured alcohol and a clean toothbrush to get the glow fuel residue off. Flushed the engine with glow fuel, put in a new plug and it fired up on the 4th flip of the prop. It smoked like crazy for about 3 minutes, then was fine.
Posted on: 10/20/2009 10:39 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9189689

RE: trimming the cowl
[b]WITH THE ENGINE MOUNTED AND IN PLACE,[/b] take cardboard strips and make holes in them then tape them to the fuselage. [b]Example:[/b] Take a piece of cardboard (cardboard that comes in a new shirt works great) about 1" - 2" WIDER than your cylinder head and about 3" - 4" LONGER than the distance from the cylinder head to the firewall. Cut a hole in one end that will JUST FIT over the cylinder head. Put the cardboard over the cylinder head and tape in place on the fuselage. Put the tape about 1" back from the firewall. Repeat this for the needle valve and exhaust. Fold the cardboard strips back and remove the engine Fasten the the cowl to the plane. [b]TIP: CA some 1/2" squares to the inside of the cowl where the screw holes are. This will strengthen this area and prevent the holes from enlarging and/or ripping out. Thin CA works very well for this.[/b] Unfold the cardboard strips and mark the holes in the strips on the cowl. [b]TIP: To avoid chipping the paint/gelcoat put masking tape over the area to be cut out and draw your holes on the masking tape. The tape will prevent the edges of the paint/gelcoat from chipping. On your FINAL adjustment switch over to a tapered stone. The tapered stone will leave a smooth edge. Clean the stone afterwards with rubbing alcohol or lacquer thinner.[/b] Remove the cowl and the cardboard strips from the fuselage. Remount the engine. CAREFULLY cut the holes out using a dremel and sanding drums. Fit the cowl over the engine and mark any adjustments that need to be made. Remove the cowl and make the adjustments. Repeat the above until you are satisfied with the fit.
Posted on: 10/17/2009 12:36 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9180420

RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
Oil base polyurethanes are fuel proof, [b]however,[/b] they yellow in about 6 months. The yellowing is not too noticable on dark colors, but very noticable on light colors. Water base polyurethane [b]DOES NOT YELLOW, However,[/b] it is only fuel resistant. The following caveats need to be followed with waterbase poly. 1. Let the poly dry for a minimum of 2 weeks before exposing to fuel/exhaust fumes. 2. Do not leat the residue remain on the finish over 4 hours - at ABOUT 4 hours the finish will begin to soften. 3. I have found that 2 or 3 thin coats (allowing 7 - 10 days between coats) is as good as fuel proof clear coat providing the caveats in #2 are followed.
Posted on: 10/4/2009 10:10 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9146933

RE: buying .020 lexan.....
US Plastic will sell small quantities (1 or 2 sheets), but the last I remember, they were 24"x48" - you will have to cut them. Their prices are quite reasonable and the shipping is quick. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=62&Page=1&utm_source=google&gclid=CPydyfvMm40CFRNyZQodAEf_6g&cookie%5Ftest=1 Depending on what you plan on doing, you may want to consider PetG instead of Lexan (US Plastic calls their PetG Vivak). I vacuum form a lot of my own parts and I have found PetG easier to work with than Lexan - requires less heat and is not as brittle as Lexan.
Posted on: 10/4/2009 9:54 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9146882

RE: Electric to Glow Conversion Forum????
It is a good idea, [b]HOWEVER,[/b] you will have a lot of work ahead of you. Planes built [b]strictly for electric[/b] will need a lot of re-enforcing to withstand the vibrations of a glow or gas engine.
Posted on: 10/3/2009 3:22 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9143847

RE: Plans for Scratchbuilding
If you like vintage SCALE planes, especially "different ones", try Cleveland models http://www.clevelandairline.com/ Pick the plane and the scale size you want (ie [b]MOST[/b] 40 size planes are going to be 1/7 or 1/8 scale). You will need to do some "modding" as these plans were originally for rubber power (beef up the firewall area and cut out for the ailerons and flaps (ailerons and flaps are normally shown on the plans)
Posted on: 10/3/2009 3:17 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9143839

RE: build from plans
There are quite a few planes that meet your specs. Are you interested in a sport or a scale model ? Do you want a high wing, low wing, etc ? Do you want a fast plane, an aerobatic plane or one one to just cruise around with ? What tools do you have ? Do you have any power tools - scroll saw,band saw, etc. ? If you can narrow it down a bit it would help. 95% of my planes are plan built. Here are a couple of photos. These are all powered by 46 2 strokes.
Posted on: 10/3/2009 3:06 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9143828

Tip on hardening holes, NEATLY
We all have on occasion needed to harden holes on the airframe. The problem is how to do it without making a mess on the covering (or surrounding material). Take a piece of 1/16" music wire about 6" long and put one end in the hole to be hardened. Then apply the CA to the wire and let it run down into the hole. The hole is hardened and you have not made a mess.
Posted on: 9/25/2009 10:18 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9124423

RE: WHAT TO DO AFTER THE PLANE IS PAINTED?
First, make sure your seams are VERY secure when covering the plane. BEFORE shrinking the covering, I go over ALL the seams with a trim iron set on hot. Second, when shrinking (or reshrinking) the covering, put a wet cloth on the seam. This will reduce the amount of heat on the seam and minimize/eliminate any pulling apart. FWIW - I have successfully reshrunk the covering on many occasions with the iron. The trick is to KEEP THE IRON OFF OF THE COVERING. I usually jack the heat on the iron up somewhat and keep the iron about 1/16" - 1/8" away from the covering. As with anything, this takes some practice, but it provides better control of the heat - the heat is only going to be in a small area compared to the heat gun which puts the heat over a larger area. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 9/25/2009 10:09 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9124400

RE: forming lexan
It is possible to form lexan, however, I feel you will have better results using PET-G. I get mine from http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=62&Page=1&utm_source=google&gclid=CPydyfvMm40CFRNyZQodAEf_6g&cookie%5Ftest=1 My experience has been the PET-G forms at a lower temperature than the lexan and is much easier to work with. They have good prices and will sell one or 2 sheets. Back to forming....Your best bet is to vacuum form your windshield. Carve/sand a wood plug to fit the opening. Fasten the plug to a 3/8" (or thicker ply base). The base should be about 1/8" larger than the part and you need to sand a taper from the top to the bottom. The top part should be about 1/32" - 1/16" larger than the part. The base is for "persuading" the plug to come out of the "stubborn" parts (without breaking the plug) and the taper/ridge provides a cut line. While it is possible to make a plug from HARD balsa, a harder wood is preferred. [b]DO NOT put anything on the wood plug (varnish, etc)[/b]. It will come off on the formed part. A hard balsa plug should give you at least 10 - 12 pulls before you see any problems. Vacuum forming is not hard and you probably have everything you need to make a setup. There are plenty of instructions on the web for this.
Posted on: 9/23/2009 9:57 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9119184

RE: Odd Question
You use a prop for the airboat. Just bolt the prop in the same place. Be advised.....you will PROBABLY have to run the engine as a "pusher" type engine unless the engine originally used "pusher" props on the airboat. If the engine initially used pusher props, the engine will run in a counter clockwise rotation and you can use regular props. If the engine ONLY runs in a clockwise direction, you will have to use the engine as a pusher engine.
Posted on: 9/22/2009 1:21 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9115371

RE: Retracts (mechanical)
If the servo is OK (gears not stripped or slipping), it sounds like the linkage from the retract (or the actuator rod) to the servo is bent (or slipped) and is not locking the retract. You will need to do the following: 1. Make sure that where the linkage attaches to the actuator rod on the retract is OK and not bent or slipping. 2. Make sure the actuator rod is not bent (this is the rod the linkage connects to and operates the retract. 3. If the retract end is OK, readjust the linkage on the servo end. MAKE SURE THE RETRACT LOCKS IN THE UP AND DOWN POSITION. [b]OBSERVE the operation of the retract to insure the actuator rod and/or linkage is not bending and preventing the retract from locking. [/b] Mechanical retracts are pretty simple. The only things that can happen is you bent the strut, you bent the actuator rod (this is the rod the linkage connects to on the retract) or where the linkage connects to the actuator is damaged. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 9/12/2009 8:09 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9090337

RE: Need some expert opinions please.
For a supplier for the plywood, I suggest Lonestar balsa (yes they are back in business from the fire) http://www.lonestar-balsa.com/ For [b]NON_STRESS[/b] plywood parts, such as fuselage formers, make your own "plywood" from balsa sheets. Just glue them together and weight them down until dry. You WILL SAVE on weight. You do not want to use the "balsa ply" for things such as the firewall, but for fuselage formers it is great and will save weight in the tail of the plane. As others have suggested, make patterns of the parts you need, THEN you can try straightening them by wetting them and weighting them down until dry (typically about 48 hours). If you decide on straightening them remember to shim them so they will dry "warped" in the opposite direction. When dry, the wood will spring back some, so if they are "warped" in the opposite direction, they should spring back straight.
Posted on: 9/9/2009 10:23 AM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9081342

RE: Should I buy a case of castor fuel for 30 bucks. need advise on useing castor nitro in a .46 2cycle
The fuel should be OK. I still have a couple of unopened gallons of fuel in the basement - my fuel is going on 10 years old and no problems. As for the castor........... Yes it will darken the [b]OUTSIDE[/b] of the engine, especially the muffler. Yes, you [b]DEFINITELY[/b] want to use after run oil if the engine is going to be stored (not run) for over 60 days. The castor tends to gum up a little after 60 days, but flushing with fresh fuel USUALLY takes care of the problem. You [b]WILL APPRECIATE THE ADDED INSURANCE[/b] the castor will give you. The castor gets into the molocules of the metal inside the engine MUCH BETTER than the synthetic oils. In the event of a "lean run" the castor will save your engine, with synthetics, at best, it is a "crap shoot".
Posted on: 9/7/2009 1:43 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9076267

RE: Rust-Oleum Painters Touch - Fuel Proof
To be certain whether it is fuel proof or not do a couple of test panels. After the paint has dried, do a raw AND A HOT fuel test. Raw fuel test: Pour raw fuel on the panel and let it sit overnight, then clean off. Hot fuel test: Position the panel about 12" from the exhaust of 40 size running 2 stroke engine (rubber gloves are highly recommended for this test). Hold the panel in the exhaust for the duration of the tank. (I use an OS 46 FX with an 8oz tank for this) Let sit overnight, then clean off. You will know if the paint is fuel proof or not (this is also a good way to check unknown clear coats). You put a lot of time and effort in the building/finishing of the plane - and extra day or two is worth it to be sure the final result is not going to be messed up.
Posted on: 9/6/2009 1:03 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9073792

RE: Pushed my trainer too hard? Wing joiner failure
Carefully check the plywood joiner in the wing. They had a bunch of faulty joiners come through awhile back - you may have gotten one of them. A few years ago I had a Hobbico Superstar trainer with an OS 46FX running an APC 11x5 prop. The club president was flying it at a community day at the field when the wing just folded while in level flight at about 1/3 - 1/2 throttle. Upon close examination of the wing what was found was that the center piece of the plywood joiner was [b]CUT COMPLETELY THROUGH, NOT BROKEN[/b] and the only thing holding everything together were the two thin outside pieces of ply. Since it was within [b]Hobbico's 90 day replacement/guarantee period[/b] I got another plane at no charge. I sent in closeup photos of the wing joiner as well as a letter from the club president describing what happened and his opinion of why the wing failed as well as a letter from my local LHS owner who also stated his opinion why the wing failed (both stated the wing failure was due to a defective plywood wing joiner) . It took about 3 weeks to get the new plane. If you are still within the 90 day warranty period, I suggest contacting Hobbico (and your LHS if you purchased it there).
Posted on: 9/2/2009 9:54 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9065690

RE: Clear Silicon Sealant Wing Saddle Seal
After the silicone has dried and is trimmed, dust it lightly with some talcum powder to keep it from sticking to the covering on the wing.
Posted on: 8/27/2009 12:17 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9049409

RE: No more ARF Seaplanes???
I like the "accessory" you have on the plans. That is one way to take care pesky birds and turtles. {:-)
Posted on: 8/26/2009 5:52 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9047446

RE: Plane Identification Assistance
Why not use the old fuselage for patterns and make a new one ? Strip the covering off and use some acetone on the glue joints to soften them so it can be taken apart.
Posted on: 8/26/2009 5:48 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9047434

RE: Materials..... 1/16 lite ply v.s. 1/8 balsa
I suggest weighing a piece of the ply and the same size piece of balsa. I think you will find the balsa is lighter. A lot depends on what you are trying to do and what type of framework you are skinning. If you have a built up framework for the wing I would think SEVERAL times about bagging it as the pressure from the vacuum may damage the framework. If these are foam core wings bagging is no problem. If you are concerned about weight, consider using 1/16" balsa over foam and 3/32" over an open framework. If you are not going to glass the wing and are concerned about dings go with 1/32" ply over foam cores - on an open framework I would stick with balsa. These are just my thoughts/opinions about it.
Posted on: 8/26/2009 5:37 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9047398

RE: How do I cover a wing fillet
I don't know if this will work with Monokote because Monokote is a HIGH HEAT film. I know it works with low heat films and Ultracote. First, cut your covering into strips that are about 1/4 the width of the filet and a couple of inches longer than the filet. Next, apply a coat of SIG's "StixIT" to the filets and let dry. Now, [b]USING A TRIM IRON WITH A ROUNDED SHOE[/b], iron your strips on going from the back of the filet to the front. You want to start with the strip on the outermost part of the filet and work your way towards the fuselage. I recommend using a high heat on the film even though it is a medium of low temp film. You will need the heat to get the film to stretch into the assorted concave areas. Overlap your strips about 3/8". The StixIT [b]WILL HOLD[/b] the covering inplace and the covering will not come loose without applying heat to it. Depending on the degree of detail you want to go to, you can get some latex paint color matched to the film and paint the filets, then after the latex has cured, clear coat the paint to fuel proof it. If you decide to go this route, cover the plane, then mask off the filet area prior to painting and clear coating so that the heat from the iron/gun does not damage the paint. For filet material, I make a base/frame from 1/16" sheet balsa, then mix up some auto body filler (Bondo) with microballoons (mix the micro balloons in before adding the hardener) and apply the bondo to the balsa frame. The micro balloons make sanding a breeze. Have a dowel or piece of tubing as well as some rubbing alcohol available. Dip the dowel/tube in the alcohol so it is litteraly dripping wet, then use this to smooth the filet and contour it. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 8/26/2009 3:41 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9047125

RE: COWL( just added pics)
Depending on the size of the cowl, I normally use 2 - 3 layers of 2 oz cloth with the weave at 45 degrees to the layer under it. As for epoxy, I use 30 minute resin thinned 5% (by volume) with acetone (you can also use denatured alcohol). The purpose of the thinning is to give a longer working time and to let it penetrate the layers of fiberglass cloth more easily. Yes, the acetone/denatured alcohol will weaken the resin a little, however considering the cowl is a non structural part, the increased working time and penetration is, in my opinion, worth the slight trade off in strength.
Posted on: 8/25/2009 10:26 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9045288

RE: Need help spraying clear coat on Latex.
[quote]ORIGINAL: rlemaster I've been giving latex a try on my latest plane just to see if I like it and, though I've pretty much learned how to deal with the issues with the paint itself, I'm having problems getting a good clear coat on it. I want a glossy finish on this plane so I'm now trying to clear coat it. Since this is latex, my understanding is that I need to use water based clear coat to be safe. I've tried MinWax Poly (water based) and wasn't really happy with the hardness (or lack there-of) once it dried. I then purchased a can of Varathane Diamond Water based floor clear coat which, from some of the posters here, is suppose to do really well for this purpose. >1st of all you are not going to get a monokote shine using latex, no matter what kind of clearcoat you put on it. My problem is that, when I spray the clear coat on it looks great right after I spray it. However, after it starts to dry, the red stripes (over white base) start to look like a dried out lake or something (sort of cracked, etc.). In other words, it develops a surface that almost looks like the clear coat is reacting with the paint under it. It doesn't do this with the white, just the red and they are all the exact type of paint. I'm using an HVLP gun and have tried pressures from 20 down to 10 psi and like I said when I look at it immediately after I spray it looks incredible. Then, after about 20 minutes or so later it starts looking like I described. Anyone have an idea of what might be happening here? Also, am I right in assuming that water based clear coat is my only option here? I really want a good clear and very strong finish since the latex paint isn't nearly as tough as paint like Klass Kote, PPG, etc. Note that nitro fuel proofing isn't a factor here since I'm using all gasoline engines. >There could be several reasons why this is happening. >1. Latex needs to "cure" (dry) for a MINIMUM of 14 days (longer if it is humid or you used semi-gloss or gloss >latex - gloss type latex can take as long as 30 days to cure). To tell if the latex is cured, press your finger >FIRMLY on a hard area of the plane (I use the cowl area). If a fingerprint remains, the latex hasn't cured yet >(Don't worry, the fingerprint will disappear in a day or two). Heavy coats of latex take NOTICABLY longer to >cure than thin coats. If the latex is not cured it MAY react to something in the clearcoat. >2. The clearcoat may be too heavy. Several THIN coats are better than a heavy coat. >3. I have had my best luck with the latex (or clearcoat) thinned to about 1/2 way between milk and water >for consistency and using a pressure of 25 - 30 psi at a distance of about 10" - 12". I have found that >under 25 psi I do not get the coverage I want and over 30 psi the paint starts to "dimple". >4. Make sure you add "FLOTROL" to your latex and clearcoat. I use 1 1/2 capful per 1 quart of UNDILUTED >paint/clearcoat. The Flotrol slows the drying time down and allows the paint/clearcoat to level itself out. >5. Use ONLY WATER TO THIN WITH. Anything else MAY cause the paint/clearcoat to react. >6. You might want to try "Nelsons" clear coat (http://www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html). It isn't cheap, >but it is VERY good. The Nelson's are waterbase, and if you use the cross linker, you will have no problem >with glow fuel. I have heard that WarBird Colors is also supposed to be good, but I have no experience >using WarBird Colors. Thanks, Russ >Hope this is of some help to you. [/quote]
Posted on: 8/23/2009 10:19 AM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9037614

RE: 11x5 or 11x6?
If the plane is underpowered, [b]LEARN TO FLY "ON THE WING", NOT ON THE ENGINE[/b]. By that I mean you need to learn to fly the plane using the lift in the wing and the aerodynamics of the plane and also learn what the plane can and can not do. With a large enough engine [b]ANYTHING[/b] will fly. You would be surprised at the weight a small engine can fly. Yes, your takeoffs will be longer and flying into the wind will most likely be more of a challenge, but you will learn things about the plane AND flying that you would not learn otherwise. In my opinion, if you can fly an underpowered plane [b]successfully AND consistently[/b], you should be able to fly just about anything.
Posted on: 8/23/2009 9:33 AM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9037533

RE: Help identify planes as need cowls
As RedHead said, you may be able to find "commercial cowls" that will fit them. I suggest making your own. Take some BLUE or PINK foam and carve/sand it to the shape you want. Then cover it with some LOW TEMP film (Econocote or similar - I use leftover covering scraps). Cut some 2oz fiberglass into strips about 2" wide and 10" - 12" long. LIGHTLY spray the covered foam with 3M #77 adhesive and apply ONE LAYER of strips. The LIGHTLY spray the strips with #77 again and apply a second layer of strips. APPLY THE SECOND LAYER SO THE WEAVE IS AT ABOUT A 45 DEGREE ANGLE TO THE FIRST LAYER. Mix up some resin and use a PLUMBER'S FLUX BRUSH (Lowes, Home Depot - about 25 cents) and work the resin through BOTH layers (if you see a white spot the resin did not go through both layers). Let dry, then sand the outside smooth. Next, (do this outside) cut an "X" in the back of the film and pour a little gasoline on the foam to dissolve it. In about 20 minutes you can pull the film and "sludge" from the cowl. Wash the cowl with soap and water. The cowl will be soft and flexible at this point. do any final shaping and set aside for a couple of days and it will harden up. Now you can prime and paint it. Any pinholes or low spots can be filled with body glaze (red stuff - comes in a tube from Wal-Mart or similar) This may sound hard, but it is actually quite easy (a little messy, but easy). I have made quite a few cowls cowls this way. FWIW - I don't think the yellow plane is a crop duster. All the crop dusters I have ever seen have had flaps.
Posted on: 8/21/2009 11:01 AM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9033425

RE: Laser decals
The laser waterslide decal sheets are for use with a laser printer. You need to clearcoat them prior to soaking them for application. I have the inkjet sheets and I use Krylon ACRYLIC clear for sealing the decal so they don't run when soaked. FWIW - be careful with decals much over 3" as they tend to "spiderweb" if not handled VERY carefully. With Solartex, I apply the decals and any trim paint, THEN I give the plane a THIN coat of clear. The thin coat seals the decals to the plane (no edge showing) and it makes the Solartex easier to clean since the dirt can not get into the weave of the fabric.
Posted on: 8/18/2009 10:25 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9026966

RE: Wiring
This may sound stupid, but make sure there is no prop on the motor when checking out rotation. I made that mistake ONCE. I got off lucky - a small cut on the hand and a broken wing (40 size conversions are not made to fly in a 10'x16' workshop {:-) )
Posted on: 8/10/2009 6:18 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9005760

RE: Servos from ebay for dirty cheap?
Those servos have about 20 oz of torque @4.8 volts. If you plan on doing ANY hot rodding or strenuous aerobatics I would pass on them. Between the nylon gears and low torque you would be asking for trouble. I have used BlueBird BMS 380MG servos for the past 3 - 4 years with excellent results. I have had 2 servo fail in that time and both were AFTER I "dumb thumbed" the plane in. Checking the salvaged equipment out, 2 servos (rudder and 1 aileron) had intermittant "glitching" problems. Weight is about 1/2 oz and they put out 50 oz @ 4.8 volts. I use them in my 40 size electric conversions and 40 & 60 size glow planes.
Posted on: 8/10/2009 6:13 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9005747

RE: Latex paint and masking tape ?
I use latex quite a bit for painting. The tape I use is a blue tape by 3M. It has a paper appearance and on the wrapper it says "60 day Safe Release". The wrapper also has an adhesive index. You want the 2 dot rating. I apply the tape, then burnish the edge down. I then give the edge of the tape a THIN coat of clear to prevent bleeding. After the paint has been sprayed, I remove the tape (at an angle) while the paint is still wet. Doing this I have had excellent results. On a couple of occasions I have been called away before I could remove the tape. I removed the tape about about 3 hours later with no ill effects, so I guess you could do it either way (or I got lucky on those occasions).
Posted on: 7/23/2009 11:03 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8959288

RE: Koverall Question
Be careful with Koverall. Heat (from a heat gun or iron) will shrink it. The nitrate dope will also cause shrinkage. Do not get the Koverall drum tight prior to applying the nitrate or you may warp some of the surfaces. I suggest getting the Koverall just barely or a tad more tight. When you brush on the 1st coat of nitrate (I use a foam brush) the covering will sag and wrinkle some - it will tighten right back up when the nitrate dries. The 2nd coat will do the same thing, but not as much - it will also tighten back up when it dries. When the nitrate has dried, if it is not tight enough for you, CAREFUL use of an iron (less heat than a gun) will get it to the tightness you want without damaging the nitrate. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 7/22/2009 10:16 PM by Author "Campy" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
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