RE: Badius Owners Club (CONTINUED)
[quote]ORIGINAL: sxk122 well, don't know if any of the people from way back are still around afineman, agcat, loubud, captainrandy etc, but i was moving some things around in my garage and came across a stash of spare badius parts. A straight wing, a polyhedral wing, a tail assembly, a fuselage and two of the aluminium nose plates that pilotray made.... Anyone interested in any
Posted on: 10/22/2009 4:00 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9193964

RE: I could really use some help.
aeajr, Using the buddy cord has allowed me to let my buddy get much closer to the ground and still be able to save his butt, without passing the TX back and forth. In the beginning it was a real trainer for me also, being able to get someone out of a jam real close to the ground. I always wanted to let them make some mistakes, and see if they could get out of it. I think it is a great training tool IMHO.:)
Posted on: 7/17/2009 9:31 AM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8940724

RE: I could really use some help.
Phillip M, Thanks for all the good advise. I was going to do that toss test with a little power, but I was chicken :) When I first toss a plane, I like to get it to three mistakes high as soon as possible. We used to recommend that to some newbies on the Badius Boys thread on RCU. This is when we were all starting out with the Accipitor Badius RTF sailplane. This is not my first sailplane, but it is the first one of this size and weight. It is also my first with ailerons. I have flown other planes with ailerons, just not a sailplane. My buddy back in Florida who is now in Colorado for the Summer just bought the Radian, and he loves it. I helped him get it set up before he left Florida. He took it out of the box and it flew great. That was a relief, as we didn't test fly it before he left, and he is a bit of a newbie being on a trainer cord for a long time. He is doing great now all by himself :)
Posted on: 7/15/2009 10:02 AM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8935203

RE: I could really use some help.
da Rock, I see what you mean, but I think I want to get her more nose heavy also to make her less sensitive to elevator movement. She was very twitchy with the slightest movement at all. I am assuming that is because of the CG point. This is a heavy bird for me at 3.5 lbs, so I am a little intimidated by it. My only other plane that heavy is my Cub. Most of my planes are light weight foamies.
Posted on: 7/14/2009 7:58 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8933685

RE: I could really use some help.
Second Maiden was much better. I added about two more oz of lead to the nose, and it was much better. She climbed out pretty well, and wasn't too bad to handle. I did notice that she was VERY touchy with the elevator, so I had to be careful not to hobby horse it around. I got her up pretty high and cut the power. Now she liked that. I glided around for a while, and after loosing some altitude, I powered her up again. The response was less intimidating this time. After a few up to altitude, I decided I had better see how this thing lands. I had a lot of room on a freshly cut hay field, so I wasn't afraid that I would run out of room. She cam in just as sweet as ever, as long as I stayed off the elevator. I guess I need some more nose weight to bring that elevator sensitivity under control. At least there was no crash :) Upon inspection when I returned home, the rudder servo had stripped it's gears. I can't imagine why, as I hardly even touched the rudder. I have HS 81's in there for rudder & elevator. I have another set of gears, so I will replace them and give it another try. She weighs in at approx 3.5 lbs
Posted on: 7/14/2009 3:20 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8932906

RE: I could really use some help.
Just got back from the maiden flight of the big sailplane. After all that figuring of the CG etc, it seems that it was way too tail heavy after all. I'm not sure how that could be with the plane balancing perfectly at the spot the calc program said, but it was. It acted just like my old Glass Air when I first got it and it was too tail heavy. I gave it about 1/2 throttle and tossed her into the wind. She was trying to go straight up. I applied some down, and it was responding, but as soon as I let off on the elevator, she would head up again. I gave it more throttle and more down to get it to level off a bit. It was very squirrelly, so I did all I could to get her back on the ground. It was more luck than skill but she belly landed rather hard, and broke the fuse in some places that were already repaired. Broke the prop of course, but ever thing important is fine. I will just do a quickie repair to the fuse, and add some more nose weight for the next flight, maybe tomorrow weather permitting. Not sure why the calc program gave that spot, but I inputed the dimensions the best I could. Oh well, maybe the next maiden will go better.
Posted on: 7/12/2009 1:52 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8926629

RE: I could really use some help.
Evan, Tower's price seems a bit pricey on that high start. I think I will have to find a surge tube supply.
Posted on: 7/12/2009 10:40 AM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8926284

RE: I could really use some help.
da Rock & Evan, I see what you guys mean about the trees. The first trip I made out there, I thought this is going to be scary. I have watched a lot of slope video's, and even bought that DVD with the guy doing like 186mph. I think they call it dynamic soaring or something. All the slopes in those videos, were like you say, treeless slopes. I only have three sailplanes, and two of them are electric. I know, I know, that's cheating :) My only pure glider is the little Fling, but I need to get a new surge tube, as it rotted. I am pretty much available all the time, so if you guys can put together a date for a few guys to meet up, that would be awesome. I was Navy also, retired too, but not from the Navy. Just proud to have served. I was in 1971-75 Vietnam vet. AeaJr, That is some great stuff you posted links too. I will be exploring a lot of them. I could have used the one on retreiving planes from trees a couple of weeks ago. :)
Posted on: 7/12/2009 9:51 AM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8926193

RE: I could really use some help.
da Rock, Good info on the Lump. I guess I don't know a slope from a mountain top :) Evan, If you are ever heading to the Lump, shoot me an email and I will meet you there. I love to learn new tricks.
Posted on: 7/11/2009 10:55 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8925386

RE: I could really use some help.
[quote]ORIGINAL: da Rock [quote]Which way should I go for a start?[/quote] If your CG is already within that range, go aft. Truth is, I always go aft. I've never had a glider that I wanted to be less efficient. And never had one with a CG that made the glider scary to fly if I tuned the elevator throw if it needed it. Remember that most reputable glider designs list a CG start point and elevator throw to match. Start from those two and the sucker's going to be safe to fly. If you do move the CG aft remember that the sucker MIGHT be quicker on the stick on pitch. And if you don't like the quickness or want to insure your hamhanded flying doesn't cost you some of the improved efficiency, then tune the throw some. Moving the pushrod out one hole on the elevator horn usually works like gangbusters. [/quote] da Rock, Thanks so much for all your great explanations. I see that what I have been doing so far with my sailplanes have been a good starting point. Now to refine the performance with some trial and error. I should be able to handle the plane with no problems. I am in Laurel Springs, NC, not far from the Lump (slope soaring site)MM 265 on the Blue Ridge Pkwy. Are you near there, or further west? I have flown the Lump a couple of times, but not with a pure sloper yet. I still feel the need for power in my sailplanes :) I have a small Fling ( high start ) plane that I plan to take out there soon. That plane I will risk loosing. Thanks again for all your time. I will post my results of the maiden. I just went back to some of my previous posts, and saw that we have chatted a bit last Summer when I was looking for sites to slope. I see that you are very familiar with the slope. OK, so next questions is, do you ever get out there? I would love to meet up with some real knowable slopers. Randy
Posted on: 7/11/2009 12:54 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8924133

RE: I could really use some help.
[quote]ORIGINAL: da Rock [quote]ORIGINAL: CaptainRandy OK, so the question is if the Neutral point is always 4.7'' from the root leading edge, does that mean that with all gear in place, if I put two pencil erasers at this Neutral point the plane will sit perfectly balanced with no tip forward or back? Randy [/quote] Nope The CG is where the plane balances perfectly with no tipping
Posted on: 7/11/2009 9:56 AM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8923843

RE: I could really use some help.
Hi Guys, I had to use a CG calculator program to determine the CG of a sailplane that was given to me. It has a wingspan of 8'2" and has ailerons. I plugged in all the dimensions that the program called for, and it came up with all kinds of info. It said the Neutral Point was 4.7" from the root leading edge, and the CG was 4.37" from the leading edge with a Static Margin of 5% with a static margin of 10% the CG was 4.03" from LE, with a static margin of 15% the CG was 3.7" from the leading edge. OK, so the question is if the Neutral point is always 4.7" from the root leading edge, does that mean that with all gear in place, if I put two pencil erasers at this Neutral point the plane will sit perfectly balanced with no tip forward or back? If this is correct then I am in business, as the plane does sit perfectly when I balance at this Neutral point. Thanks for any input. Randy
Posted on: 7/10/2009 10:40 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8923004

RE: Radian - a new e-glider from Parkzone
This is a good deal, and a great place to buy at lower cost. I have been buying from them for years. I buy all my RX's, lipos. motors & esc's from them. http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=7028 It does require a 12v input, sorry.
Posted on: 7/8/2009 10:55 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8917673

RE: I could really use some help.
Mike, A buddy of mine is also very new at flying RC planes. In fact he has only flown one sailplane. He just purchased the Radian sailplane to take with him to Colorado for the Summer. He bought the RTF one, that you just have to add your own RX and MA lip battery. I have spoken with him since he got out to Colorado, and he has told me that this plane flies fantastic. He spent a lot of time on a buddy box while in Florida for the Winter, but is now flying on his own with the Radian. This may be a good option for you as well, if you have not already purchased a plane. Here's the link to Horizon hobbies who carries the Radian. You can also search on RC Universe for some great threads on this plane. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8000175/tm.htm http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PKZ4775 I also fly all types of electric planes, from F-14 Tomcat's to Gliders, and I still get a thrill when I am in a good thermal till my neck hurts. Hope this helps, Randy
Posted on: 7/8/2009 10:36 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8917616

Technical question on motors ?
I have a question on the difference between these two motors http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=V510387&pid=V935719 http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=2128 The Feigao motor I am using in a Glass Air glider with a 11 X 8 Graupner folder and it performs beautifully. It only draws about 15 amps wide open spinning that prop. The specs given on BP's site only show stats for the 11 X 7 prop and they show 13.1 amp for 11.V I acquired a new larger sailplane and I had this A36-12L motor from Hobby King. It states with an 11 X 8 prop approx 35 amps Both motors are stated as approx 1071KV, so why the huge difference in the current draw with approx the same prop size? Is the A36-12L just able to swing that prop at the full KV, and the little Feigao motor hits it's max current at a lower rpm? I am thinking it is like the larger motor, just has more HP than the smaller one, so it is able to turn up to the rated KV with the current being higher. Am I on the right track here? Any comments appreciated, Thanks guys
Posted on: 7/7/2009 3:29 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8913865

What's the difference in motors?
I have a question on the difference between these two motors http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=V510387&pid=V935719 http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=2128 The Feigao motor I am using in a Glass Air glider with a 11 X 8 Graupner folder and it performs beautifully. It only draws about 15 amps wide open spinning that prop. The specs given on BP's site only show stats for the 11 X 7 prop and they show 13.1 amp for 11.V I acquired a new larger sailplane and I had this A36-12L motor from Hobby King. It states with an 11 X 8 prop approx 35 amps Both motors are stated as approx 1071KV, so why the huge difference in the current draw with approx the same prop size? Is the A36-12L just able to swing that prop at the full KV, and the little Feigao motor hits it's max current at a lower rpm? I am thinking it is like the larger motor, just has more HP than the smaller one, so it is able to turn up to the rated KV with the current being higher. Am I on the right track here? Any comments appreciated, Thanks guys
Posted on: 7/7/2009 3:25 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8913858

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
I don't think that would save servo gears, but good for adjustment.
Posted on: 4/28/2009 6:25 AM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8721775

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
My nose wheel steering works great too. I just have it tied to the aileron channel with a Y harness. Only takes a tad of steering to keep her straight, and taxing around at low speed is no problem using the right stick/ailerons either. The shock absorber/servo saver works great also. Oh and it flys well too. That's a plus[:D]
Posted on: 4/18/2009 9:19 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8694043

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
A spy camera of course[:D] First I need to get a few more flights under my belt.
Posted on: 3/20/2009 12:38 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8597488

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
[size=6]Predator Maiden Flight by capt. Pappy[/size] The Predator flew Great! I was very nervous, but I got her up to speed, and just hit a tad of up elevator and she jumped off the ground. Almost to much, but I immediately give her some down, and she flew out real nice. She did need some down trim, but that's OK. It responded nicely to all inputs, and the landing was real smooth, except the nose wheel turned on the shaft. I have to file a flat spot on the shaft so I can tighten the collar better. I was very happy to bring her home in one piece. The rubber band wing attachment worked fine. No sign of any movement at all. Very easy to remove the wing for transport.
Posted on: 3/20/2009 11:36 AM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8597336

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
Did you try here? http://www.nitroplanes.com/4eluavrqprra.html
Posted on: 3/19/2009 3:28 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8594663

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
Mr Winchell, Congrats, and don't forget to post some pics of your Predator. Chris, Thanks for the info. I guess I just have to add a tiny bit of lead to achieve the cg that I am shooting for. I am trying to get it at 2 1/4" back from the LE. [b]Where is your CG[/b]. I like my planes a bit nose heavy from that point. I hate to maiden a new (heavy plane) that is also tail heavy. I am coming in 11 oz. over the Flying weight on the box. I have a small carbon rod sticking out the front that I am using to secure the hatch. I was thinking of sliding a small egg sinker on that to keep the oz way out front. Might even make people ask what is that for?[:)] Had to add two more oz of lead in the nose, but now she is slightly nose heavy. Me Likely nose heavy. Ready to maiden when I get a new 9 X 6 prop My Rubber Band wing attachment looks good. No magnets or bolts to deal with. I put two small carbon rods through the wing, so they protrude out the top and bottom a little. More on the bottom, and I put them on a slight angle to prevent the bands from possibly slipping off, which they probably wouldn't, just me being anal AGAIN[:D]
Posted on: 3/10/2009 4:32 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8558436

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
Hi pappajeff, I haven't seen you on the thread in a while, and I had a question. I just finished up my Predator, and she weighs in at 39oz. I am using a motor similar to yours on the 1 inch nylon mounts to make the cowl fit. I also am using a metal gear servo for nose wheel steering. I have a 2200mah 3s lipo up front as far as it will go. Right now it is still a tail tail heavy, so I have no choice but to add a tiny bit of lead in the nose. I hope it doesn't take too much. I am shooting for a cg like yours around 2 1/4 inches back from the LE. I will try a 9 X 6 SF or thin electric prop, and do a wattage check to see what power to weight ratio I get. I can't imagine what motor they used to mount directly to the firewall, and have the cowl fit. You and I both had to use a 1 inch extension to make ours fit. This of course pushed the weight back so far that we needed to add extra weight forward to compensate. When I get the props this week, I will get some power specs and post the results on the thread. I hope to get a maiden soon. Thanks for a great build thread. I will copy this email to the thread for the benefit of others who are reading it. Capt. Pappy
Posted on: 3/8/2009 10:51 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8557740

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
Stephen, Yes, in fact I was playing with it out in front of my house this evening, and it works great. I was just taxing around at all speeds, just below lift off speed. I'm sure it is going to be fine even on short grass. I used the larger wheels for the nose and main gear. You guessed the servo right too 3102 metal gear, and I also used the spring servo saver thingy. I am hoping for a maiden next week, but I have to get the CG correct. so far I have a 2200mah 3s lipo up front, the metal servo and larger wheel, but it is still tail heavy a bit. I don't know how they could have gotten the CG correct with a smaller battery and no nose steering. Have to work on it. I am using the CG at 2 1/4" back from the LE as Pappa Jeff recommended.
Posted on: 3/5/2009 8:06 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8548006

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
Chris, Here are the pix of the version 2 steering. It is going to be much better than version 1. Stronger servo, and wheel axis in line with shaft. I tested it out in the garage, and it seems OK. Yes the rubber bands would stretch across the bottom of the fuse, but also would be easy to remove them and thus the wing. I would use 2-3 thin bands just in case of a snap. Get some pics of the Xenons I just chatted online with Nitro Models about the servo cut out in my left wing. They are sending a replacement. Now that's service with a smile[:D]
Posted on: 3/2/2009 7:19 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8529245

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
Gentleman, Here's an update on my steering. I decided before first flight to scrap the steering arrangement that I had installed. The HC 9G servo was a little small, and I needed it for one of the ailerons, as I forgot to order them on my last order. I had an extra Futaba metal gear servo, so I enlarged the hole an used that instead. I changed the steering rod to straight down from the bushing tube, so that the wheel would be on center with the rod. It steers like a charm in my garage, so now to finish up the rest of the plane, and go for the maiden flight. I will get some photo's of the new steering arrangement, even though you guys already know what it will look like. maybe there are some that would like to see it. No one commented on my idea for the removable wing attachment, which was to use a small piece of carbon rod in each wing root, and secure them to the fuse by stretching a rubber band or two across the bottom of the fuse. It works for holding the wings on a lot of high wing planes to prevent damage to the wings in the event of a bad landing. Just another idea to consider. I have those rare earth magnets that I bought for this purpose, and holy cow are the powerful.
Posted on: 2/26/2009 10:15 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8522867

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
Jumper, OK, so I should be good with the 1800's or 2200's as far as weight goes. I would rather add battery weight, than lead weight. Chris, I'm not sure about using two different capacity batteries. There is probably a lot of discussion on that somewhere. You are doing that because of physical size, and the angle of the forward hatch, correct? I am from Long Island, so I do remember cold, Brrrrrrr. Get out and fly. You need the Fix[:D] Wow, you guys really know your weapons. OK, off to work on the Predator
Posted on: 2/25/2009 9:08 AM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8516336

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
Chris, The lights sound cool. Hope they work out for you. I was looking at the nose wheel again, and I might just change it to straight down from the bushing, so that the wheel turns on it's axis. It would be less likely to turn if slightly off center. It would be further back than it is now, but may work better. It seems that I need to use my 1800 lipos to get the CG correct. I'm not done loading the servos, RX, and ESC, but it looks like a 1300 will be to light to achieve proper CG. What size battery are you using?
Posted on: 2/24/2009 9:23 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8514934

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
Chris, You are correct about using the rudder for steering, while also using a V-tail. I don't know of a way around that problem other than as Jumper says to use the aileron channel to steer. I think it would be OK for light steering on the ground. I just want it to keep on a straight track for take off. On landing while keeping the wings level the wheel would be turning of course, but as soon as I touch down, I would let off the controls and let her roll to a stop. I will do the ground testing and let you know how it goes, but I will do as Jumper has done to start with. Also, when using the ailerons in the air, the wheel will be turning, so I would imagine a small amount of drag as the wheel turns from side to side. I had another thought[8|] What if I just touch down on the main gear, and keep the nose up like on the Shuttle landing, then just ease the nose down real gentle. Yea, like that will happen[:D]
Posted on: 2/24/2009 6:40 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8513869

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
Chris, Here are the pics as promised. It is a little unconventional, but may work. It would be better to have the wheel turn like a car, rather than the sweeping motion, but I had this in my head, so I just did it. I did not want the wheel going straight down from the point where the reinforcing ply is in the fuse. Also figured to keep with the correct placement of the wheel in relation to the nose. I'll let Y'all know how it steers Randy
Posted on: 2/24/2009 1:21 PM by Author "CaptainRandy" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8513177