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RE: Non-bushinged con rods
[quote]ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot [quote]M Note that automotive bearings are constanty fed oil under pressure, the pressure prevents actual metal to metal contact. [/quote] Not true. The film strength of the oil prevents the metal-to-metal contact. The oil pressure keeps fresh oil flowing through the bearing. In a connecting rod bearing in an automotive/truck engine, there's nothing but residual oil pressure most of the time. CR
Posted on: 9/3/2012 8:27 PM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216416
RE: OS FS 90
Doggone it I uploaded the wrong pic. Trying again. Sorry! CR
Posted on: 9/3/2012 8:00 PM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216396
RE: OS FS 90
[quote]ORIGINAL: L48 On the FS 90 four stroke carb. is there an O-ring on the low speed adj.? If there is how do you replace it? Does the screw come out if you adj. it out ? [/quote] Here's an exploded view of the carb. CR
Posted on: 9/3/2012 7:49 PM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216383
RE: TT .39 heli engine ruens glow plugs
[quote]ORIGINAL: earlwb One thing to do is to examine the glow plug element closely. You can use a jeweler's loupe or something else to get a good view of it. The glow plug element's condition can be very helpful in determining why you are ruining glow plugs. Here is a good article on what to look for with a glow plug. [IMG]http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg171/earlwbollinger/Old%20and%20Vintage%20Engines/Dukes_Mixture_article_reprint.jpg[/IMG] [/quote] I had a scrapbook of "Duke's Mixture" articles that got lost in a cross-country move of my household. I'd sure like to find some or all of them. Do you have a source? TIA, CR
Posted on: 9/3/2012 7:30 PM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216356
RE: DuBro Vibration Mount
[quote]ORIGINAL: gerryndennis At the risk of going a bit off topic, X2 on the well nuts. They are cheap easy and work. Reasonable vibration and sound isolation, without the engine flopping around too much. I use a penny washer as an extra safety device though. Insert the well nut and tighten the screw. Place a washer over the protruding screw in the tank bay and then put on a nylock nut. That way if the rubber ever fails or pulls out of the hole, the washer will prevent the engine mount from pulling out. Probably over kill though. Dave H [/quote] The added washer and nut look like a very good idea to me. Here's the "Snuff Vibe" kit/mount that my Saito 1.50 is mounted on: http://www.jtecrc.com/snufvibekits.htm Last off-topic post, I promise. [:)] CR
Posted on: 7/16/2012 7:51 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11157182
RE: DuBro Vibration Mount
[quote]ORIGINAL: OldRookie The instructions are scant at best, and were found printed on the back of the package. Notice the orientation of the elastometric parts. Instead of being at 0, 90, 180, 270 degrees, they are at 45, 135, 220, 310 degrees in the illustration. I wonder if this makes any difference? I think I am going to lubricate mine with YS after run oil. This is safe on rubber. Greg [/quote] Thanks for the instructions. [:D] I've archived them. I note that they don't say to lube the "Elastomerics" on initial installation; it's a maintenance item. That's probably why I didn't do it but for the life of me I don't remember the maintenance part. I put that mount on the 4-120 Bipe when I changed it over to the Saito 1.5 from the Conley 1.2 it originally had. That was in 1994 AIR! Oh well, nothing has loosened up. HAR! I just went and looked at the model. I used the J-Tec mount! It's the same kind of system but the mount is one piece. Lessee is J-Tec still in business? CR
Posted on: 7/15/2012 9:53 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156016
RE: DLE 20 OR ROTO 25 INFO REQUIRED
[quote]ORIGINAL: Snoopy IN THE MARKET FOR A 20 TO 25 CC GAS ENGINE DOES ANY BODY HAVE ONE OR BOTH OF THE ENGINES, AND IF YOU CAN PLEASE GIVE SOME ADVISE ON EITHER ENGINE PROS AND OR CONS. THANKS. [/quote] Big difference in the price. CR
Posted on: 7/14/2012 10:30 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154984
RE: DLE 55 OVERHAUL
[quote]ORIGINAL: Truckracer [quote]ORIGINAL: Charley [quote]ORIGINAL: w8ye CHARLIE, ITÂ ISÂ STILLÂ AÂ WRENCH! [/quote] How do you figure that? Here's Wiki's definition: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrench CR [/quote] Yup, even using Wiki's definition, calling it a wrench would be acceptable. It holds a part and adds mechanical advantage .... I would have called it a holding fixture
Posted on: 7/14/2012 10:28 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154982
RE: DuBro Vibration Mount
[quote]ORIGINAL: OldRookie What do you mean by ''I didn't use any grease.''? The instructions say to use castor or wash the rubber parts is fuel. Greg [/quote] I meant what I said; I didn't use any grease, as someone else suggested. Of course it was yrs ago. Hmmm, might be a better idea to use the suggested grease instead of castor. Castor gets sticky. Where did you find the instructions? I searched for them briefly; came up empty. CR
Posted on: 7/14/2012 10:04 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154956
RE: DLE 55 OVERHAUL
[quote]ORIGINAL: w8ye CHARLIE, ITÂ ISÂ STILLÂ AÂ WRENCH! [/quote] How do you figure that? Here's Wiki's definition: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrench CR
Posted on: 7/14/2012 9:58 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154948
RE: DLE 55 OVERHAUL
[quote]ORIGINAL: yak-54 Hi To All Please take a look at the link attached i need the tool to open the prop hub to release the cranckshaft Can someone tell me how to get this tool or have a good idea how to open it and remove it i need to install a new cranck to enother Engine thanks ilan [/quote] Looks like if you want that holding fixture (not a wrench) you have to make one. It's meant to keep the hub from rotating while you unscrew the nut. Interestingly, the idea is to heat the hub with a heat gun and use a drift & hammer to tap the shaft out of the hub. If you go through the video further you see where they heat the hub before reinstalling it. All you need to do is find a way to hold the hub while you loosen the nut, as someone else wrote. CR
Posted on: 7/14/2012 9:26 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154915
RE: DuBro Vibration Mount
[quote]ORIGINAL: Hobbsy You tighten the bolts until the aluminum inserts contact each other and then tighten as if they were solid. They are not adjustable like the Davis soft mounts. Let us know how that works out, fourstrokes and soft mount don't generally work well together. I noiubted this old FA .40 on a Sullivan soft mount. Even though the FA .40 is a glass smooth running engine it danced like an excited puppy. Lube the rubber inserts with High Dialectric grease, it won't harm the rubber and stays where it is put. [/quote] I've had a Saito 1.50 on the subject mount (#688) for years. No probs with it and it doesn't dance around. I didn't use any grease. CR
Posted on: 7/14/2012 8:51 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154893
RE: OS46FX Bearing Replacement Help
Andy, I think you just junked a good engine because you didn't know what you were doing. Nothing wrong with the new engine if it will survive you. CR
Posted on: 7/9/2012 10:24 PM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11149576
RE: OS46FX Bearing Replacement Help
[quote]ORIGINAL: oldtyme SeamusG........... The second time I tried to start it it kind of locked and spun off the spinner and prop. It did this about 5 times using an electric starter. I could flip it with a chicken stick fine but the minute I tried to use the starter it would meet with some kind of resistance and throw the spinner and prop. Thanks for any advice, Andy [/quote] I'll tell you what happened there. You had a bunch of liquid fuel in the crankcase that flipping with the chicken stick didn't pick up but when you tried to use the starter it pumped liquid fuel into the cylinder, causing a hydraulic lock. The cure for that is to turn the engine upside down and then sideways with the piston at BDC and pour out the trapped fuel through the exhaust port. CR
Posted on: 7/9/2012 10:03 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11148791
RE: Fox 40 is impressing me.......
[quote]ORIGINAL: JeffH The problem I had with Foxes is that while they screamed on top end and they idled well, they would do nothing in between. They spit, sputtered, or just plain quit if you needed any sort of extended midrange. [/quote] That had to do with the low speed needle. That's why Duke put in instructions on how to optimize the shape of the tip. I used to buy a bunch of needles to play with. They didn't cost much and I've always been a motor head. CR
Posted on: 5/19/2012 6:07 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11086623
RE: DA 250 Twin Super Charged Four Stroke
[quote]ORIGINAL: w8ye Looks like it could use a couple idlers on those belts? [/quote] Amen! I had one of the original Conley 1.20s, an OHC design. It had fixed idlers on the timing belt; thus no automatic tension adjust when the belt stretched. The belt would jump cogs in a heartbeat if a mechanical transient occurred; say a minimal prop strike on soft turf. It was a real PITA to re-time because it required dismounting the engine to get at the belt/pulleys. Maybe jumping a cog isn't as important on a SC belt, though. (?) I sold the engine to a German collector. CR
Posted on: 5/19/2012 5:53 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11086615
RE: Saito 91 intake valve leaking will not run.
That looks like rust on the intake valve stem. Try a little steel wool on it. How old is the engine? CR
Posted on: 5/12/2012 4:55 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11077818
RE: Saito 91 intake valve leaking will not run.
[quote]ORIGINAL: grant-RCU Guys, I even took the rocker arm off the valve and it still does this. The crank vent it open i can blow air through it. The fuel line is connected to the clunk to the carb and the pressure line to the exhaust. [/quote] Something has the valve held off its seat. I'd take it back apart and see if it sucked something into the intake passage or the valve guide is is galled. CR
Posted on: 5/11/2012 1:44 PM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11077229
RE: Saito 91 intake valve leaking will not run.
Could be a sticky/dry valve guide. Is the valve closing all the way when the problem manifests itself? Squirt some oil onto the valve/guide, turn it through a few times and see if the compression comes back. You could also try a new spring. Are you sure the exhaust valve isn't leaking? CR
Posted on: 5/10/2012 9:03 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11075814
RE: Goldberg Cub and Mr. Lee's K & B 61?
Look what I found: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mistclub/ Glider guiders in Indy. CR Edit: MY mistake these guys are in Muncie. Sorry.
Posted on: 5/9/2012 9:14 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11073047
RE: Goldberg Cub and Mr. Lee's K & B 61?
[quote]ORIGINAL: 142088 Deleted post [/quote] ?? CR
Posted on: 5/9/2012 8:56 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11074336
RE: K&B 61 spitting fuel?
[quote]ORIGINAL: WaffleMan I have been messing around with a K&B 61 I got from a friend with 1 run on it. It is the perry carb version. It idles great, but it spits fuel out of the carb at high RPMs, wich causes it to die unless I go to idle as soon as it starts. At most it can run 1 second a full throttle before it starts spitting. [/quote] Not enough info. Have you tried leaning the high speed needle? CR
Posted on: 5/8/2012 3:16 PM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11073429
RE: Goldberg Cub and Mr. Lee's K & B 61?
[quote]ORIGINAL: 142088 Gentlemen, Come on now, I hold this to be true: I may not agree with any opinion but I will fight to the death to defend your right to hold your opinion even if I don't agree with that opinion. The last thing I expected when I posed this original question was any point of contention. No need for that. I do favor a sport 2 cycle engine because I have some limited experience with those. [/quote] Not going to argue with anyone. Especially those who get punitive as soon as someone makes a comment they don't like. It's just my opinion that the current crop of engines, 4-stroke or 2-stroke are very easy to operate. Since you have experience with twin needle carbs, you'll have no problem; they all work about the same. My suggestion of the Magnum .70 for your Cub stemmed from your agreement that the 4-stroke would make a preferable sound for that model. Also, I have experience with the Magnum engines and regard them as very user-friendly. Then there was your budget constraint and a sale at Hobby People. Too bad that you were unable to take advantage of it. FWIW, I own engines from OS, Magnum, Saito, YS, K&B, Fox, etc. They all have their good and bad points. I don't know any YS user who hasn't had a bath in glow fuel at least once! [:D] I also fly electrics, including an electric-assist glider with a folding prop. Using electric-assist is a matter of convenience in launching the glider. I don't like messing with a high-start. I can just toss the glider, gain some altitude, shut off the motor and go thermal hunting. Our club welcomes any AMA member regardless of what they fly. I tried looking for glider-specific flyers around Indy through a Google search. Saw your RCU post. Have you tried RC Groups for your search? Possibly your AMA district website? CR
Posted on: 5/8/2012 8:23 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11072951
RE: Goldberg Cub and Mr. Lee's K & B 61?
[quote]ORIGINAL: JohnBuckner My opinion of course still lies with the .55 AX particularly for the OP as a returnee. It makes much more sense that is unless he is a motorhead (and thats fine) and simply has to have something rare or exotic. I do some rare and exotics also but I find most returnees are really looking for the most user friendly engines possible and that is the AX line in my opinion. John [/quote] I suspect you're selling the "returnees" short. Likewise the current crop of engines. CR
Posted on: 5/6/2012 7:40 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11070259
RE: Goldberg Cub and Mr. Lee's K & B 61?
[quote]ORIGINAL: 142088 Agreed. I would prefer a 4 stroke. But dollars are dollars. $130 for a K & B 61 wins over a 300 dollar 4 stroke. They do sound neat in low and slow birds but that is life. [/quote] Here's a 4-stroke that will fly it and doesn't cost more than the OS .55 AX. We have lots of Magnums in our club and they perform quite well. I have this engine. http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php/magnum-xl-70-rfs-blue-r-c-4-stroke-engine.html CR Edit: It happens that Hobby People is having a sale this weekend.
Posted on: 5/5/2012 11:22 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11069461
RE: Goldberg Cub and Mr. Lee's K & B 61?
Wish I'd seen this sooner. If you haven't made the order, I'd suggest a 4-stroke engine. A Cub with a squalling 2-stroke on its nose just isn't a Cub to me. CR
Posted on: 5/4/2012 10:55 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11068324
RE: Where is a good place to break in an engine?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Hobbsy Hey Matt, if it were my field I guess I could brag a little, I have 1/4 acre. There is winter oats growing there right now. Earl, the little Saito .30 wouln't kill too much corn. Here is the same field with several hundred geese in it. [/quote] Looks like you're growing turkeys, not oats. CR
Posted on: 5/4/2012 10:48 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11068320
RE: Where is a good place to break in an engine?
What makes you think it will take a long time to break in? CR
Posted on: 5/4/2012 10:46 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11068318
RE: Saito parts needed
[quote]ORIGINAL: SCOTT42 I need the teflon pads that go onto the piston and some valve stem caseings ans rubber seals for them. I bought a used engine the otherday but it was in peices, it was in a crash at one point and someone took it all apart and now im about to put it back together, or attempt to? [/quote] You might try this company. I got some parts for my FA-80 from them. Quick service too. http://www.gravesrc.com/SearchResults.asp?searching=Y&sort=13&search=saito&show=30&page=1&brand=SAITO CR
Posted on: 4/14/2012 7:01 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11041405
RE: Club FOX!
What I believe about the Eagle series of engines is that they were never intended to be high-revvers, but boy did the have mid-rpm torque. I always figured that if I wanted more speed I could go to more pitch. CR
Posted on: 4/13/2012 9:49 AM by Author "Charley"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11040295
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