RE: Convert Hobbico Nexstar from NiMH to LiPo
I love my Nextstar Electric with Lipos. I did not change a thing except switching from NiMH to Lipos. It went from a dog to an awesome trainer (especially on grass fields) The key is to keep the milli-amps the same for both batteries. I use one 2S 7.4 volt 3350 mAh (25C) and one 3S 11.1 volt 3350 mAh (25C) Lipo packs. Together they give you 18.5 volts, 3350 mAh (25C) since they are connected in series. My other set of Lipo packs is [b]3800 mAh (30C) [/b]and they work just fine as well and give me longer flights. Since the Lipo packs are lighter.... check your balance (CG).... mine did not require any adjustment (I also removed the auto correction ball underneath the rear fuselage. [b]Bottom Line:[/b][u][/u] Just plug in the Lipos into the two deans connectors the same as you did with the NiMH and keep the milli-amps the same. Be prepared for a whole new plane that will jump off the field on take-off & haul ass with the power of those Lipos and less weight !!!! -Chuck
Posted on: 8/25/2012 9:50 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206135

RE: congratultions, Tower Hobbies
I have always had "Outstanding" support & service from Tower.... their website is solid (especially tech notes), prices are an excellent value and they ship quickly and accurately. If you can find a better RC source.... "Good Luck" !!! I would not let one bad experience taint the 30 year relationship you have had with them. If you are not having a positive experience with them.... I agree.... vote with your dollars. But for me.... they are truely the Gold Standard for "One Stop" RC Shopping !!! -Chuck
Posted on: 6/23/2012 11:13 AM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128848

RE: engine out on twin
Turn into the good engine..... [b]Luke.... don't go to the dark side.[/b] -Chuck
Posted on: 6/11/2012 8:40 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11115150

RE: Great Planes PT- 17 Stearman ARF
I put a Saito 200 R3 3-cylinder radial engine on mine.... and it is a joy to fly..... but nowhere near as cool as Linkan2's UMS 7-35 radial engine. That is the definition of AWESOME !!!! -Chuck
Posted on: 6/3/2012 8:56 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11105372

RE: NextStar EP
[b]Hi Chucksolo69:[/b] I have a Nextstar EP and love it. Flys about the same as the simulator. Only one down-side with it. The 3600 mAh NiMH batteries it comes with are like lead, and will only work on paved runways. I have only had two successful take-off's on grass runways with them. In fact if by some miracle it does get airborne it flys heavy ([b]not like the simulator[/b]). Now if you put a pair of lipos in it.... The Nexstar EP is an awesome trainer that will easily take off on grass strips.... power galore !!! I bought three sets of lipo batteries ($150/set) and it is now one of my favorite planes. From dog to awesome performer with lipos. I don't know why they still sell it with NiMH batteries anymore.... they barely work. The lipo batteries you need are around 3350 mAh. One is 7.4 volt (2S or 2 cell lipo battery) and the other is a 11.1 volt (3S or 3 cell lipo). Hooked together you get 18.5 volt 3350 mAh. You hook them up the same as with the other batteries (Dean's connector). The ESC (electronic speed control) that comes with the Nexstar EP & motor need no changing. I get about 15 minutes of flight time with the 3350 mAh batteries staying around 1/2 throttle after take-off. The key on the batteries is that both lipo batteries have to have the same mAh's. I am trying a set of 3800 mAh batteries this weekend for longer flight times. [b]If you are a beginner I would recommend the Nextstar glow-fuel version[/b]..... 3 sets of lipo batteries is about $450 for the batteries alone. I would also STRONGLY recommend that you get an RC pilot to help you.... since you will need an experienced person to trim out the plane on it's maiden flight. No change in CG was required when going from NiMH to Lipo (probably because I took out the stability control unit since I did not need it) Also you need a lipo battery charger with balancing capability (can't use a NiMH charger on lipo batteries). I also have a Nexstar "mini-EP".... a lot cheaper and batteries are only $25. (takes one lipo battery).... flies Great !!! I know this sounds complicated....Hope this helps, [b]Chuck[/b] South Dakota
Posted on: 5/23/2012 8:55 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11092530

RE: best 4 stroke twin?
The Hangar 9 "Twin Otter" might be a good choice.... very stable twin for those size engines. -Chuck
Posted on: 5/14/2012 9:53 AM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11080315

RE: GP GEE BEE
So it "[b]is[/b]" possible to land a Gee Bee & taxi back to the pits !!!! Are you sure you didn't photoshop that ???? -Chuck
Posted on: 5/12/2012 2:32 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078257

RE: Why Doesn't The AMA and the Hobby as a whole market to minorities?
There is a very simple answer...... deep down inside we fear that they will come out to the field.... take to the air ..... turn into the RC version of the Tuskegee airmen .... and fly the living pants off of the "White Boys" !!![:D]
Posted on: 4/8/2012 10:23 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11033967

RE: Engine size help.
I have both the OS Max 46 AX & 55 AX.....stay with the 46 AX.... the 55AX is a finicky little sucker.... while the 46 AxX is reliable & powerful. The 46AX is a joy to fly and plenty of power for your 182... an 11x6 prop should work quite well with it. -Chuck
Posted on: 4/5/2012 9:34 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11030279

RE: Hangar-9 Sopwith Camel Build Thread
Hi Jason: Got an extra one since I didn't use it (put a Saito 3 cyl .90 in mine). Send me an address and I'll ship it off to you.... No Charge !! Chuck54sd@yahoo.com -Chuck
Posted on: 4/2/2012 10:40 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11026124

RE: Hinges
Hi Frog: That epoxy & vasoline sounds like a great idea too.... 15 minute epoxy would be my choice and you get to move things around for a few minutes before it sets. CA+ glue.... you get on shot to ram it home .....then it stuck !!! One recommendation is to glue all the hinges to the wing or aileron first..... let that set and dry.... then ram the alieron on to the hinges already on the wing. Before I ram the aileron on.... I do a few practice runs without the glue, to make sure that the alieron will easily slip on to the hinges... then oil up the hinges & put the glue on the hinges. Good luck...... it's an art. -Chuck
Posted on: 3/2/2012 9:43 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10984434

RE: Hinges
Hi Frog: I use "pinned" hinges as well since they put less stress on the servos and allow more freedom of movement. The down-side is the CA glue getting in the hinge when you insert them and locking or binding them up. A trick someone showed me to prevent the CA glue from getting into the hinge is to take a toothpick.... dab some vegetable oil on the moving part of the hinge....work it in by moving the hinge back & forth.... and that way there is no where for the CA glue to go since the pin part is already filled with a drop of vegetable oil, which the glue can't stick to. A little "veggie" oil (I use olive oil) goes a long way. If you accidentially get some oil on the flat part you want to glue..... simply wipe it with isopropyl alcohol on a rag to clean it off. This way I can put a drop or two of CA (I use medium viscosity super glue (CA+) rather than the thin CA) in the slot before I insert the hinge, and if a little glue gets "squeegeed" on to the pin part of the hinge... just wipe it off & work the hinge a few times as the CA dries. Hope this helps with your pin-hinge. -Chuck
Posted on: 3/1/2012 9:58 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10983648

RE: Spektrum vs. Futaba?
Just go back to Futaba and just worry about flying.... 8FG Super is an excellent choice. -Chuck
Posted on: 2/22/2012 10:41 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10971673

RE: Hangar 9 Spitfire 60
I love my H9 Spitefire... I have an OS Max 55 and that is more than enough power..... so a OS 61 would "sing". Retracts & flaps are straight forward and worth the time.... a little flap allows "slow fly" capabilities..... retracts are just "cool" !!! Only thing I added was to reinforce the tail stab to avoid the flutter problem.... (see previous H9 Spitefire posts or YouTube). To fix the stab flutter problem.... add some diagonal wood reinforcements in the stab.... remove the bottom ultracote.... add supports between the ribs and cover back again....also some thin CA will strenghten the stab balsa. -Chuck
Posted on: 2/22/2012 10:36 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10971669

RE: Hangar-9 Sopwith Camel Build Thread
I think you can still get H9 Camels & parts according to their website. http://www.hangar-9.com/Products/RelatedParts.aspx?ProdID=HAN4225&Category=Parts+Listing&SubCategory= I finished my H9 Camel last fall....waiting for Spring to maiden... with the Saito 90R3 in the nose.... very little (8oz) lead needed. After the maiden.... I will see what parts I need. New ARF listed for $329 on their discontinued item site. -Chuck
Posted on: 2/6/2012 10:23 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10947539

RE: New saito 200 3 cyl
46cc or 1.5 ounces/minute at full throttle FUEL CONSUMPTION FA-90R3 25cc per minute (15% Nitro, 13x6 propeller, full throttle) FA-170R3 45cc per minute (15% Nitro, 15x8 propeller, full throttle) FA-200R3 46cc per minute (15% Nitro, 16x8 propeller, full throttle) FA-325R5D 75cc per minute (10% Nitro, 20x8 propeller, full throttle) FA-450R3D 60cc per minute (15% Nitro, 22x10 propeller, full throttle
Posted on: 1/22/2012 10:29 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10922651

RE: Hangar 9 Twin Otter Flap Repair?
I put a hole in my alieron too. I just used some ultracoat over it on a lower heat setting as to not melt the plastic and it worked just fine. Later on I applied more heat to it with the iron after it had cooled down to shrink it. Ain't no way I could get it to corrgate though
Posted on: 1/22/2012 10:11 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10922631

RE: All you Gee Bee people reply!
My GP Gee-Bee flies great with the OS Max FS-120 (w/pump). (The sound is awesome) Still haven't been able to land it yet without the classic ground loop at the end of the roll out, (grass strip). The lighter you make it the better it lands. BTW.... the Robart Gee-Bee struts are a must..... the "bent coat-hangars" that come with the GP ARF are useless. I would recommend you do a few flights without the wheel pants till you master "The Landing" !!!!! Proper balance & recommended throws work quite nicely. Only had one "major" crash which was repaired (ran out of fuel & it glided like a rock) The GP Gee-Bee ARF is well worth the effort..... it flies great & is a fun plane to own. -Chuck
Posted on: 1/17/2012 10:53 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10914673

RE: HK GeeBee 1.20 Questions
Hi Rob: Great Planes is still listing the manual for the now discontinued Gee Bee .91 arf at http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpma1326-manual.pdf and also http://www.greatplanes.com/manuals/discontinued.html My GP Gee Bee flys GREAT with an OS Max 120 (pump) and the Robart "Beefy" Gee Bee struts.... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRS2 .... now if I can only figure out how to land it.
Posted on: 1/2/2012 11:39 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10888959

RE: Why are Futaba Servos so expensive?
I use the Futaba 8FG radio too.... Great ain't it ?? You don't need to use the Coreless (S9000 series) servos to get digital servo performance, (coreless are "super high torque") Here are three digitial servos from Futaba listed through Tower Hobbies... all 4.8 or 6 volt approved (see Tower's description) Futaba S3151 Digital Sport BB Servo $25 Futaba S3152 Servo Digital Standard High-Torque $36 Futaba S3050 Digital Standard High Torque BB MG Servo $50 Like others have said.... just about all brands of servos will work.... for retracts I like the JR servos...
Posted on: 12/31/2011 11:06 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10885560

RE: P 38 Help 1st Twin
I fly RC twins & triples..... twins are a wonderful thing..... the sound is like music. Like others have posted, the key is to keep your engines rpm as close as possible, ESPECIALLY with a P-38. Twins also fight you a little bit in a turn.... they like to go straight. Most crashes I have seen are when one engine fails and the pilot turns in to the "engine-out" side and the whole plane flips & crashes. (stay away from the "dark side" Luke) I just bought a "twin-sync" http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/WRCTWINSYNC.html and will install it in my H-9 B-25 & H-9 Twin Otter. The Twin-Sync is supposed to keep the engines rpm's close together and drops to idle on the one remaining running engine if an engine goes out.... you then bring the throttle-stick back down & the running engine can then be throttled up. Watching twin RC crashes on You-Tube, by the time you realize one engine is dead.....it's too late.... especially if the field is noisy and the plane is down range a tad. P-38 is my Dream-Twin..... but even after 5 years with twins I have not mustered up the courage to try one yet..... Good Luck Cowboy & have fun.... it's a wonderful hobby.
Posted on: 12/31/2011 9:40 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10885501

RE: Engines for Hangar 9 Twin Otter
Just installed 2 OS Max .46 AX's in mine.... have not flown it yet. Balance came out great (no weights needed). It's a tight fit.... but came out great. I kept the regular mufflers on it. Just tweaking out the controls right now. Used the mix function in my Futaba 8FG for the elevators (you will need to reverse one side & mix gear with elevator or buy a servo reversor). This will be my test bed for the Twin sync since the cowls are easy to get to. The reason I selected the OS 46's..... is I have had a history of solid performance with them.... a very stable and dependable engine.... with great power for this size bird. For a twin..... stable is good. The OS Max 55AX.... not so much. (great power for size.... but finicky).
Posted on: 12/11/2011 10:44 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10855261

RE: Nexstar conversion
I fly the Nexstar EP and replaced the NiMH batteries with two lipo batteries hooked in series. One is a 3350mw 11.1volt and the other is a 3350 7.4 volt. I get about 12-14min of flight at 1/2 throttle with more than enough power for take-offs on grass strips. The key is to add up to 18.5 volts and the wattage on the batteries HAS to be the same. The motor is a ElectriFly RimFire 42-50-800 Out-Runner Brushless motor. I love this plane.... with the price of lipos coming down it is getting more cost effective. Although this plane is enemic with heavy NiMH batteries..... it roars to life on Lipos !!!
Posted on: 4/28/2011 10:23 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10490864

RE: Why the AMA is not growing...........
Black monocote..... White monocote..... who cares as long as it flies !!!!
Posted on: 4/19/2011 8:48 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10473610

RE: H9 Spitfire Build
I love my H9 Spitfire (OS55AX)..... sweet flying warbird.... other than re-bending my gear from time to time from hard landings.... no problems in the past year. After a video (utube) showed the rear stab rip off in flight due to a high speed flutter .... I peeled back the ultracoat on the botttom side and reinforced the rear stab with criss-crossing diagonal reinforcements since the rear stab ribs only go front to back..... no significant CG change I couldn't fix by moving the battery forward a bit. Not sure if this reinforcement was covered in this thread previously .... is this still a recommended fix ? -Chuck
Posted on: 4/13/2011 9:37 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10461620

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
Sounds like you are getting a lot of advice.... another 2 cents. When it comes to control rods...... you can't beat "Sullivan" flex golden rods or clevis. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFU90&P=7 or the semi-flex type http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFU92&P=M just put a anchor point every 8" or so along the fusalage (small piece of scrap flat wood with a hole in it to brace the rod) along the way. Advantages.... less friction.....less stress on the servo.... easy to install vs. the bulky wood pushrods. I use Sullivans flex rods on throttle connections as well. Where the pushrod comes out - use "Ernst's pushrod exits (small) for the red sullivans http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE980&P=7 and large if you use the blue semi-flex rods http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE979&P=7 These pushrod exits also keep fuel from entering your model. -Chuck
Posted on: 4/10/2011 10:18 AM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10454383

RE: Carl Goldberg EAGLE 2
My first build 25 years ago was a Carl Goldberg Eagle 63 (now known as the Eagle II).... I still fly 2 of them. You made a most excellent choice.... despite flying many planes since then... it is still my favorite. It is durable..... easy to rebuild (and yes you will "ding" it from time to time) and a wonderful flying machine with forgiving characteristics for the first time flyer..... you have done well "grasshopper"
Posted on: 3/30/2011 6:25 PM by Author "Chuck54sd" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10433529