RE: FS One by Hangar 9
[quote]ORIGINAL: clp.eng Well I think we just got the answer! See [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=RTM25R5500]iHobby[/link]. Chuck [/quote] Interesting. I have Phoenix and it's nothing less than an awesome heli sim, but the fixed wing side of it doesn't compare to fsone (it's especially evident in slow flight/landing regime). I wonder if HH took special care to tweak the fixed wing models that they have as their "exclusive" content in it. They still appear to have fsone in stock (just the version with mode 2 controller included out of stock). [b]ed:[/b] I hope this means the Phoenix team will have access to fsone's [b]fixed-wing[/b] sim code. That would be perfect. But like I said Phoenix's heli simulation is already awesome (they can leave fsone code out of the heli side of it).
Posted on: 10/24/2009 1:12 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9198463

RE: LiPo maintenance recommendations
[quote]ORIGINAL: richrd ... But in spring treat as a new pack and do a few 1C to 2C cycles to recondition them before any rated C runs. ... [/quote] I have not read of this procedure before. I have gone straight to doing C rated runs with new packs, but good to know. My packs have been doing well in the two flying seasons that I've been flying electric. They still are running at least close to peak condition (I had a chance to test fly two of the packs in question yesterday). I put that down to the fact that I never run my cells down to 3v or 2.9v like some do. I know for example that with lead acid batteries number of cycles increases if you run the voltage down less. I suspect that's true for LiPo's as well. Downside is that you get shorter flights or flights where you're conserving power more, but IMO you gain relatively little per flight by running the packs down to or near to cut-off. Actually the only LiPo pack of mine that is out of commision (after only one summer) was one that I lent to another guy to use once to test on his plane. During that flight he ran it down to less than 2.9v (until it cut-off) flying it hard for the whole flight (he's not a regular at our field... just a guy who showed up once). After that flight, that pack started steadily decreasing in performance until it was pretty much unusable by the start of this summer. Cheers
Posted on: 10/21/2009 9:13 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9190462

RE: LiPo maintenance recommendations
[quote]ORIGINAL: speedy72vega If there's no puffing, and there's still 3.4v/Cell, they'll most likely be ok. Charge them up to 3.7 per volt or so before you store them any longer. As far as using the plane to discharge, as long as you're not full throttle for extended periods, it won't hurt the motor. Just make sure there's a prop on the motor to supply cooling air. [/quote] Ok thanks for tips. Good news. Just got around to checking through my gear. The packs have no puffing and three of the packs were at 3.7v per cell and one of them at 3.64v per cell. Like I said, I'm pretty conservative with how far I run them down. Usually it's down to 3.4v (or 3.2 at the lowest), but I guess the last time I was flying I must have been doing a lot of slow flying and coasting... don't remember exactly. So I guess they should be fine then. Still would be nice to do some flights to verify the packs, but it's either too cold or too rainy or both. Fall weather is a pain. Cheers
Posted on: 10/19/2009 10:33 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9186831

RE: LiPo maintenance recommendations
[quote]ORIGINAL: speedy72vega You could always put them in a plane and run them down on the ground while restraining the plane. Try to get them to 3.6-3.7V/Cell for storage. You don't need to cycle them at all, that will just reduce the number of cycles you can use them for. Storing them at the correct voltage should be fine. [/quote] Yeah was just thinking that then you ideally need to use pretty low power level. I've read that you can burn out the motor or damage it if you run it at higher power for an extended time without allowing the prop to unload (allowing the plane to move). But if there is no need to cycle then no big deal to charge them and run them down to 3.7v on the plane even if it takes a while. [u]Do you think that two and a half months sitting at less-than storage charge would hurt the packs badly?[/u] My packs are usually at around 3.4 or so resting voltage per cell after a flight. I'm pretty conservative and don't run them down to cut off. Thanks
Posted on: 10/19/2009 5:45 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9186016

LiPo maintenance recommendations
Hi folks, I have a few 2100 mah 3S packs [i]which I abrubtly stopped using about two and a half months ago[/i]. Just became too busy to go flying and now it's the fall and cold outside. The packs were not left at a storage charge state, but then they were not aggressively discharged either as that's not my practice (I'm pretty gentle with how I use my packs). I don't think I have the time to get back into going to the field right now to cycle the packs by flying them, [u]so what's the best procedure I could follow with my charger/discharger[/u] to cycle the packs a few times and then leave them at a storage charge state for the winter? For cycling the packs, unfortunately my discharger has a preset cut-off of 3v per cell (which I think is too low), so I have to watch it as it discharges. I'd rather discharge at a slower rate, so that it doesn't all happen too fast to carefully keep track of. What discharge rate would you suggest for 2100mah 3S packs for maintenance purposes? Anything else I should know considering what state these packs are in currently? (considering they were left unused for 2.5 months without being in storage charge state, etc). Thanks
Posted on: 10/19/2009 10:55 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9185054

RE: Phoenix sim and overly sensitive helis
By all accounts (including my own experience with flying my Trex 450) Phoenix is really exceptional for heli's. From what I remember increasing expo in Phoenix [i]increases[/i] middle stick sensitivity. And the result you're getting from reducing swash travel makes sense to me. Anyway I have no problems flying the Phoenix sim 250... the more jumpy collective response kind of jumps out at me at first (from being used to the 450), but it's not a problem. Assuming you're adjusting things correctly within the Phoenix edits, you might have a TX setup problem. You should be able to get the sim 250 to fly very close to your real one.
Posted on: 10/15/2009 1:17 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9175461

RE: FS One by Hangar 9
[quote]ORIGINAL: turok007 call my crazy but why dont they release a add on CD with all the newer parkzone E-flite hobbyzone planes. it would sell very well [/quote] This has been discussed so many times. The only conclusion ever reached is "yep it's very strange". They have such a technically sound and impressive product (not to mention a great platform for promoting new ARF's) and they just ditch it all of a sudden. But I still use FSOne as my primary sim for fixed wing practicing/warming up. Just love it. Fingers still crossed for at least a aircraft's add-on at some point...
Posted on: 10/15/2009 11:56 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9175255

RE: Futaba 7C problem - Idle-Ups and D/R's
Yeah I had the "INH" status off from the start. As a side note the "INH" setting is tucked away at the bottom of the advanced thr curve menu. Can be a bit of a mystery to find it. About the way curves are set. It makes sense I guess since if the heli is powered up, then you don't need to activate the mode with the switch to edit it.
Posted on: 6/14/2009 5:13 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8851469

RE: Futaba 7C problem - Idle-Ups and D/R's
Again quoting myself.... [quote]ORIGINAL: CloudSkipper But I still am not able to set different switchable D/R's in heli mode (it has always worked in airplane mode though). [/quote] I just did more some programming with the TX and I just noticed that setting dual rates in Heli mode is accomplished similarly to how you set different curves. In other words, flipping the assigned switch has
Posted on: 6/14/2009 2:42 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8851212

RE: Futaba 7C problem - Idle-Ups and D/R's
Quoting myself.... [quote]ORIGINAL: CloudSkipper Hi, On my Futaba 7C, throttle/pitch curves don't change in response to the 3-position switch ([i][b]I did change both idle-up's from "INH"[/b][/i] ... that's not the reason). Say for example, I change the switch position to idle-up 2. Then I make a pitch or throttle curve change for that position, the change copies
Posted on: 6/14/2009 10:07 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8850719

Futaba 7C problem - Idle-Ups and D/R's
Hi, On my Futaba 7C, throttle/pitch curves don't change in response to the 3-position switch ([i][b]I did change both idle-up's from "INH"[/b][/i] ... that's not the reason). Say for example, I change the switch position to idle-up 2. Then I make a pitch or throttle curve change for that position, the change copies to Normal, idle1 and idle2 positions I can see on the screen the display changing from "N" to "1" to "2" when I toggle the switch but it seems to have no other effect. Also similar thing with dual rates. If I make for example a change to the expo percentage, it copies to BOTH switch positions. [i]I do not have the above dual rates problem in airplane mode[/i]... it ONLY happens in Heli (H3) mode. I've never noticed any problems with this TX in airplane mode. The heli mode though appears to be messed up. I have flown a heli with it many times though in normal mode. I just noticed these issues when I started trying to program in idle-up modes. Is my TX flawed or is there some other mode that needs to be activated?? [b]Again:[/b] I DID change both idle-ups from "INH"... they should be memorizing curve values indiviually, but they do not. So I can only have one throttle and pitch curve on my TX for some reason. Thanks ed: My TX is a 2.4 Ghz Futaba 7C.
Posted on: 6/14/2009 9:29 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8850533

RE: Great Planes Extra 300 GP/EP
[quote]ORIGINAL: rsands2801 it is a very quick plane in level flight. even just below half throttle on an os55ax with 12x8 it is lit! changing to a 13x7 though to slow the engine down a bit. [b]low rates are very responsive on the ailerons[/b] [/quote] [quote]ORIGINAL: apwachholz This afternoon I was [u]finally[/u] able to maiden the Great Planes Extra 300 and all things went very well. [b]Even at the lowest throws recommended in the manual I was performing very fast, very crisp aerobatics with ease.[/b] One thing that I would like to note: I'm running an O.S. 91 Surpass with a 13x8 blade and was able to perform most all maneuvers at half-throttle. I'm running with a 12oz tank and easily get 15 min of flight time with plenty left for a few passes before landing. Overall, I'm very very pleased with GPs Extra 300. Just wanted to let anyone know who's wondering. In addition, I'm also in the process of installing a smoke system to help me with judging the accuracy of my aerobatics. ...... [/quote] Thanks guys for the reports. I was wondering a little about the lowest recommended throws. Even considering the relatively larger control surfaces, the throws seemed to me like they might be too little even for normal flight. But you say the lowest recommended throws are [i]plenty[/i] then? Will be a little while still before I build it myself. Still busy with a couple of other projects. I'll try to get them done faster. This plane sounds nice :) Cheers
Posted on: 4/26/2009 5:07 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8716932

RE: Great Planes Extra 300 GP/EP
[b]Tulljt:[/b] Is that a cover I see over the opening to the fuse? I was wondering previously about necessity of doing that. You did that for sake of airflow through the cowl? Along with the throttle servo, seems you've thought of everything :)
Posted on: 4/21/2009 6:03 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8702823

RE: Great Planes Extra 300 GP/EP
[quote]ORIGINAL: nikon44 I have a O.S. 46FXw/ pitts, DS821's every where, mini on throttle, a great sport plane, could not be happier [/quote] Excellent pictures [8D] Climb one is nice. I'll be using a 46AX with pitts muffler as well, but I'm flying that engine on a different plane initially, so will be a little while yet before it's on the Extra. Is your 46 running hot at all? I ask because I can see that my 46AX will easily fit inside the cowl with the cylinder head not protruding. Cheers
Posted on: 4/17/2009 10:11 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8688053

RE: Great Planes Extra 300 GP/EP
This is my first ARF that's both electric and glow, so please forgive my possibly silly question. If going with [u]nitro engine[/u], would you not want to cover with thin balsa the big openings on the top and side of the engine box? I was just thinking that to ensure good flow of air past the nitro engine and out the bottom of the cowl, those openings into the fuse might interfere. Cheers p.s. I understand why you need airflow [i]through[/i] the fuse with electrics...
Posted on: 4/15/2009 6:44 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8684869

RE: AMP and Voltage Checker
[quote]ORIGINAL: szewang2805 hi, i have found one from that shop http://www.swanghobby.com/product.php?productid=967&cat=0&page=1 seems it is quite expensive for the two-meter. [/quote] [b]<knock-off warning>[/b] That looks like a copy of the [link=http://www.atlantahobby.com/shopexd.asp?id=8042]Bantam e Station Two Meter[/link]. Also note that "Flyermate" AFAIK is not a trademark of Bantam, so that is probably NOT just an older model or something (correct me if I'm wrong). From what I have seen that "Flyermate" one looks like a bit less in price than the usual price for a good quality watt meter. Btw, I've gotten a chance to start fully using my new [u]Bantam[/u] Two-Meter as the weather has gotten better. I really like it. Works well and the extended LiPo checking features are handy to have as well. Cheers The [i]real[/i] Two-Meter (attached):
Posted on: 4/14/2009 3:25 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8679550

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
Come to think of it I think I will do break-in on a make shift stand. Making a simple "test stand" doesn't need to be complicated. Cheers
Posted on: 4/9/2009 2:53 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8664970

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
[quote]ORIGINAL: ProBroJoe CS - this calculator should help with your quest to custom blend a 25% oil fuel - it allows you to mix any quantity you want, starting with whatever "base" fuel you have, to get your desired oil content. No need to mix (and run) a whole gallon of 25% oil! Although it wouldn't hurt anything to run a gallon on your plane... it [i]would[/i] be a tad bit messy. [:'(] http://www.nitrorc.com/fuelws/ Hope this helps, -Joe [/quote] Thanks. That's a cool website. It tells me I'll need to add about 180ml assuming a gallon of base fuel containing 16% oil and 10% nitro. That was easy. Thought I would also contribute a really comprehensive conversion site for those who prefer certain units of measure: http://digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/ [b]ed:[/b] Just a correction to the above. For the above results, I accidently input 20% instead of 25% oil in case you're wondering... oops [8|] In any case, I can quickly see from the nitrorc calculator that I can easily make a fuel mix of much less than a gallon. That's good... less mess :) Cheers
Posted on: 4/9/2009 8:32 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8664056

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
[quote]ORIGINAL: DarZeelon ........... Step 1. [b]Fuel with 25% oil, at least 40% if which is Castor oil[/b]. No more than 10% nitro in sport engines. Step 2. Start rich and lean ASAP to a rich, two-cycle setting at full throttle, for 15-20 minutes. Step 3. Try to lean to maximum RPM. If it holds that RPM, without sagging at all for 60 seconds, you're done. Step 4. ...If it sags any (not small fluctuations), give it 5 more minutes at a rich, two-cycle setting at full throttle. Step 5. Repeat starting from Step 3. ...... [/quote] I'm going to get additional castor lube to make my own 25%-oil mix (starting with probably a 16%-oil fuel) for breaking in a 46AX. I have not worked out the mixing quantities yet, but could be that starting with an entire gallon may be unavoidable. Is there [i]any[/i] issue with running an entire gallon of 25%-oil fuel through the new engine (other having a more messy plane)? Cheers P.S. Great thread. I really appreciate it when the exact reasons are given in detail for [i]why[/i] the suggested steps are what they are. Thanks Dar.
Posted on: 4/9/2009 6:23 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8663913

International retailers for Nitro Models?
Hi, Are there any International retailers for Nitro Models? Seems odd that they simply rule out shipping or supplying their 40+ size models outside U.S. and Canada. Quote from there website: [quote]Note for International Buyers - If you are located outside of the United States/Canada, and wish to order one of our Nitro Planes, [b]please note that any size 40 or above ARF Planes are unable to ship outside of the United States and Canada[/b]. Please consider 15 to 25 size model planes or other smaller size goods. We value your business! You may consider ordering electric planes or helicopters![/quote] Cheers
Posted on: 4/1/2009 7:36 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8639575

RE: Great Planes Extra 300 GP/EP
[quote]ORIGINAL: ChuckW Looked at mine and it is just like yours. I don't see anything wrong. [/quote] Ok, thanks. So yours has the left push rod tube not going through the hole which the right tube [i]does[/i] go through. Looks just like a build-mistake because of the left-side unused hole still being there even if not used. But they meant to do that. If it [i]were[/i] a mistake, then the push rod tube might not come out at the right point on the fuse side... that was my concern. Thanks
Posted on: 4/1/2009 5:48 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8638955

RE: Great Planes Extra 300 GP/EP
Hi, Could you guys take a look at the attached photo? Observe the push rod tube on the upper left at the back. Is that right? If it's a build-mistake, could be a pain to correct. Thanks !
Posted on: 4/1/2009 12:10 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8638348

RE: silicone instant gasket
I guess you're computer is trying to tell you something. It's probably just in your browser settings... or could be the general font dpi setting in your display settings (in the "personalization window" if you're using Vista in the left pane). Or it's just a persistent page load error. Maybe a computer restart will reset things. So I bought the wrong sealant? You're saying that this stuff will be really hard to remove later?... like really, really hard to remove?... or just a bit of a pain? I will be changing the muffler to a pitts muffler later on. I read in the forums that some people use it on glow engines. Is there a more general name for "Permatex High Tack gasket sealer"? What does the word "tack" mean? Or is it the same stuff, but one of the other colors like blue or green (for lower temp thresholds)? Thanks
Posted on: 3/31/2009 7:33 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8636128

silicone instant gasket
Hi, The OS 46AX does not come with a gasket for the muffler. Instructions say to use silicone sealant on the muffler. I bought some "high temperature silicone instant gasket"... the red stuff (which is I think what most people use for this purpose). I've never used this stuff before and thought I'd ask about how people actually apply it. Do you apply a thin layer (forming your "instant gasket" ) and then let that set before installing the muffler? Or do you install the muffler right after application so that setting and curing occurs with the muffler installed? In general, I'm guessing that only a [i]very thin[/i] layer should be applied? Thanks
Posted on: 3/31/2009 6:46 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8636016

RE: silver calcium field bat
[quote]ORIGINAL: Sailplane Hell, I just became aware that you're way up there in Finland. I'm certain that we don't have the same brands of batteries or stores that you have in Finland. I apologize for my questions concerning brand names and store names. How's the weather up there? Here in Florida we presently have: A beautiful, clear blue sky, not a cloud in sight & probably clear air thermals @ ~300 to 400 ft per min @ altitude (That's good for Florida...!) Temp: 81*F (~25.6*C close nough) Wind: Var @ 2 to 7 knots becoming W @9knots; hell, I should be out at the flying field Gulf water temp: 70* F No cold fronts or low pressure areas until Wed this week Low Temp last night: 59*F Air quaility (ozone): good I'm a full scale sailplane pilot as well as a RC saillane guy. [/quote] Oh I see we were replying at the same time. It's still cold here but just starting to warm up. There have been weekends when I could have braved just-above-zero C temps, but would rather wait for better temps. On the bright side, the bonus that we get for our late spring is the sun going down very late during the summer [8D] Sounds nice in Florida... 25 C [8D] Cheers
Posted on: 3/30/2009 4:26 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8631893

RE: silver calcium field bat
for this type of battery? I appreciate any help. Again, thanks CloudSkipper. .... [/quote] Hopefully there many
Posted on: 3/30/2009 3:20 PM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8631684

RE: silver calcium field bat
Although I'm not an expert I'll weight in, because I used [i]exactly that type and size of field battery[/i] last summer for charging 2100 mah lipos. When more or less fully charged I can get [i]almost[/i] three lipo charges out of it. On the third run the charger will start screaming that the input voltage has gone too low (I'll have to look it up, but I recall that my Hobbico Accucycle lipo charger needs at least 11.5 v to charge bats). It's barely enough. It's better suited as a nitro starter or for charging only very small lipo packs. The gell cell that I just bought is the exact same thing except 18 AH instead of 7 AH. Try the hardware stores in your area for larger capacity gell cells. Getting a slightly larger one will be money better spent. And charging the gell cell takes longer than you'd expect... in other words, with a 600 mah charger, you'd probably need to charge more than 2 hours to actually get in 600 mah of charge.
Posted on: 3/30/2009 11:35 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8631077

RE: Clips for ESC
He's talking about low current wires going to a toggle switch that toggles the ESC's operating mode (armed or standby). When the circuit is broken, the ESC is armed. The ESC itself remains powered-up regardless of the position of the switch. The toggle switch is not [i]directly[/i] positioned as a breaker to the power circuit. That's why I thought servo plugs would be appropriate. I have the same brand and type of ESC myself (the 40 amp version; his is the 60 amp). But something like a deans will certainly hold very firmly.
Posted on: 3/30/2009 10:27 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8630808

RE: silver calcium field bat
I got the new field battery (18 AH). I think it's a gell cell. The spec sheet says that it can be cycled 250 times when discharged 100%, 350 times when discharged 80% and 550 times when discharged 50%. In practice I don't think the charger will operate if it's discharged beyond 60% or so, because the volts get too low after that. Looks like this will be just right. It's the same type as my 7 AH that I've used for nitro starting and sometimes for charging up to a couple of lipos... the type and size that many people have in their field box. Btw, another useful source of info I found is the [link=http://www.solar-electric.com/deep_cycle_batteries/deep_cycle_battery_faq.htm#Major%20Battery%20Types]Deep Cycle Battery FAQ[/link]
Posted on: 3/30/2009 10:21 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8630842

RE: silver calcium field bat
Thanks for your help. Btw, just a tit bit for anyone buying a field bat for charging purposes, if the battery has a CCA rating (Cold Cranking Amps), then it's probably a starter battery with spongy plates. It's the discharge in amps it can sustain for 30 seconds at 0 degree F. Cheers
Posted on: 3/30/2009 2:39 AM by Author "CloudSkipper" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8630316