RE: Which battery pack for Battle Axe?
I hadn't even thought of a little LiFe battery - I'm using them in some of my bigger planes already, so I may go that route. I already have the HobbyKing [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10327__HobbyKing_Quattro_4x6S_Lithium_Polymer_Multi_Charger_.html]Quattro charger,[/link] which I'm told uses the same circuitry as the Turnigy 6 - or four of them, rather. [:D] edit: Doh! Backordered. [:@]
Posted on: 4/25/2012 8:53 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11056130

Which battery pack for Battle Axe?
Guys, I'm currently building my 2nd (and 3rd for that matter) Battle Axe kits and need to pick up a couple batteries. I honestly can't remember what size pack I used in the first one, so I'm trying to figure out what fits. Obviously I'll probably go with a 4.8V AAA or 2/3AA pack but not sure if square or flat would be preferred for fitment reasons. Thought I would ask the guys who would know right off the bat. I'm going to be using Hitec Minima 2.4 receivers so I did consider using 6V packs, but I'm probably just overthinking things there.
Posted on: 4/24/2012 8:42 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11054909

RE: Another G38 prop question
I have seen that comment from others, but in about 5 years of flying it I haven't ever come close to dinging my 18" prop. And I've had some cruddy landings that required straightening the gear legs after. I'll check the clearance as it is now and decide if I'm willing to chance the 19, or just switch the Xoar 18x10 (I did confirm my current prop is a Zinger 18x10) and hopefully it will be a better fit for the plane.
Posted on: 3/28/2012 6:07 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11018296

Another G38 prop question
I've done some searches and the Zinger line of props seem to be the most popular suggestion for a G-38. I have to believe that's largely due to the fact that the G38 has been around forever, and Zinger props have been around forever so they've always gone hand in hand, but I don't know that for sure. Point being, there are a lot more prop choices now than there were when these engines come out. That said, I do currently have a Zinger (18x8 or 18x10, I honestly can't remember) on my G38 on a Dynaflite Decathlon. I just ordered an electronic ignition conversion from rcextremepower.com and was looking to try a different prop when I get the engine changed over. The ultimate goal is to reduce weight/wing loading and increase performance, so I'm looking for an aerobatic prop. I'm thinking about trying an Xoar 18x8, but looking for other's opinions as well. Thanks!
Posted on: 3/27/2012 11:39 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11017195

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Glad to see this thread is still going strong and people are still building the kit. I get compliments on mine whenever I bring it out (not often, sadly) but I'm my own worst critic and I'm constantly on the fence of tearing it down to fix some things and improve other areas. I have some fuel/oil damaged wood in the fuse, some coverage peeling at seems, a cracked windshield, and I'd really like to shed some weight off of it if I could. Part of that would include converting the G38 to electronic ignition, which rumor has it will shave about a lb of weight by itself. Hell if that's true I should do that FIRST, and I might fall in love all over again and save all that covering work. [:D] But if I were to strip it I'd also like to modify the strut attachment with a more scale setup, maybe borrow some parts from a 1/4 scale Hangar 9 Cub, and possibly add a couple of extra touches like nav lights and such. Ideally I'd also change the wing attachment entirely, creating a bit of dihedral and adding the center window, but that's probably more than I want to tackle. And of course if I do any of that major stuff, it'll be after I finish my Top Flite Corsair, so look for that update in a few years. [:)] I would like to convert the engine soon though to see how much that helps at least.
Posted on: 3/26/2012 2:35 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11016030

RE: Glow igniter for Enya four strokes?
Picked up one of these guys from the LHS: http://www.hangar-9.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HAN3025 And some small alligator clips from Radio Shack. I'll snip the 2mm headset style plug off and add a length of wire and the clips. Should work great, I'll post a pic when done if anyone's interested. :)
Posted on: 2/2/2012 2:45 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10940746

RE: Glow igniter for Enya four strokes?
I like the idea of just using a small alligator clip or body clip such as for an RC car (with a separate alligator clip to ground to the head I suppose). That would be easy enough to make with some wire leads, the only thing left is making an adapter for the other end to connect my glow starter to. If my LHS has the remote adapters I can just use that. Ah, this would be even better: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSGN7&P=0 And that actually reminds me I have 2 chargers for my glow igniters, so I could sacrifice one of them if I really need to. Thanks for the tips guys.
Posted on: 2/2/2012 8:17 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10940168

Glow igniter for Enya four strokes?
I picked up a twin the other day that came equipped with a pair of Enya .46 four cycles. I really don't want to rig up a dual on board glow setup, but I'm not sure what other options there are. Does anyone make a glow igniter that's short enough to start the engine without interfering with the prop? Thanks!
Posted on: 2/1/2012 6:50 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10939405

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
[quote]ORIGINAL: vasek It's for a BH with a wingspan of 90.94'' and 68.90'' long. What scale would that be? [/quote] Going off wingspan alone, that would make the BH about a 1/5.4 scale. Made some headway on the tailwheel install. Here's the before: [img]http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/6071/imagectv.jpg[/img] And after removing that weight and adding a new former for the new tailwheel: [img]http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/6910/imagelrd.jpg[/img] [img]http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/6973/imagevvm.jpg[/img] Now I just need to attach the tailwheel and make sure it can move freely and has room for all the linkages, and I can call it done (for now), sheet in the bottom of the fuselage and get back to the wing. I'll probably also brace the new former a bit with some balsa, maybe tying it into the former ahead of it for a little added rigidity.
Posted on: 1/27/2012 10:37 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10930751

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
Which would in turn be about 1.66" for the Top Flite Corsair, since it's actually about 1/5.7 scale. I'd go with the 1.5" prop hub. I was wondering that myself, so thanks for the full scalle size saramos!
Posted on: 1/26/2012 10:50 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10928955

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
[quote]ORIGINAL: wulf190 Cobra....Now's a good time to start thinking ahead for you it looks like. If you are adding gear doors, now is the time to add some reinforcing ribs at the edges of the gear wells which will give you something to mount the door hinges too rather than just the sheeting on the wing bottom. I would also rec. that you at least cut through most of the die cut cutout markings on the ribs for the wheels too. I wouldn't remove them entirely yet as it will give the sheeting some purchase and help in keeping the sheeting smooth before you cut it out for the wells and doors to go in....but it will help to leave yourself not much material to cut through to remove them after sheeting and forming the door glass. [/quote] Thanks Mike. I took your advice and went ahead and added an extra partial rib for the inner walls of the wheel wells - since the outer wing was already sheeted I will have to piece in the outer walls after the sheeting is cut away for the doors. [img]http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/2095/imageryyc.jpg[/img] Then I went ahead and started sheeting the bottom of the wing. After I had 5 of the 6 pieces on I realized that maybe I should have run my retract air lines beforehand, but it shouldn't be too hard to fish them through. [img]http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/7784/imageklb.jpg[/img] As for the flaps, is the existing flap hatch big enough to add a slot for the servo arm and mount a servo to the underside of it like the aileron servos? I'll have to look into the Meister Scale hinges. I know I remember seeing that someone had used them on this thread but I can't remember who or where to look. Hopefully my cd from Jazz will be here soon. :D
Posted on: 1/25/2012 6:37 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10926670

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
Well I had to change my plans. I was building the flaps but I can't build the inboard flap before I make the belly pan, and I can't make the belly pan before I sheet the bottom of the wing and fuselage, and I can't sheet the bottom of the wing and fuselage until I have the retracts figured out. So onto the retracts. Installed the gear rails in the wing last night and took a saw and a dremel to the back of the fuselage to gut the factory tail wheel mount. I suppose I can go ahead and sheet the bottom of the wing now, or should I cut out the rib sections for my wheel wells first? [img]http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/6956/imagelwc.jpg[/img] [img]http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/4041/imageeok.jpg[/img] Oh, but I can't finish sheeting the wing til I decide how I'm going to handle the flap servo. It's all intertwined! I think I'm back to trying to go with the flap servo/pushrod per the plans, but using a pie shaped piece of ply to connect the flaps instead of a piece of wire.
Posted on: 1/24/2012 1:38 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10925572

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
Well I guess I can share some of my progress, or the lack of progress to be more specific... As I mentioned on an earlier page I picked up this plane framed up. It was missing some parts for the ailerons, flaps, and rudder so I had to order a few die-cut sheets and make some parts from scratch (I ended up making ailerons that probably weigh less than the die-cut aileron base sheet alone from the kit). [img]http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3331/imageceb.jpg[/img] [img]http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2875/imagezev.jpg[/img] I also bought the Robart main gear and a sweet tailwheel from Sam. One problem with the tailwheel is my kit was already set up for the Robart tailwheel, so I'm having to hack away through the bottom of the fuselage to make room and get rid of the unnecessary weight back there. [img]http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/6071/imagectv.jpg[/img] I need to finish shaping the second aileron and I suppose the next logical step will be to build the flaps, though I haven't decided just how I want to hook those up yet. Leaning towards an external pushrod like the ailerons based on some of the negative feedback I've ready here about the hidden linkage the kit calls for. After that I'd like to get the tailwheel in and get the plane up on the main gear, so I can finish sheeting the wings and work on the gear doors. Question: I'm not planning on a pilot figure, at least not yet, but I don't want my canopy attached with unsightly #2 screws either. Any tips on how to have the canopy semi-removable but without causing excess damage? The thought crossed my mind about doing the sliding canopy, but I just don't know if I want to tackle that with this model.
Posted on: 1/23/2012 12:20 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10923514

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
Hey guys, back on the actual building topic, I picked up the retracts (Robart 148s) today. Don't have my pump, valve and tubing yet, but can I manually unlock these things to work with them while fitting them into the wing?
Posted on: 12/7/2011 1:49 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10848441

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
[quote]ORIGINAL: frisconick And now it's not on TopFlite's site any more???? [/quote] Did someone in the web department let that one slip a little too early? [X(]
Posted on: 12/6/2011 11:22 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10846288

RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread
Real nice TJ. Get that thing finished and we'll fly your Ultra Sport and my 4 Star in formation. Just like old times. [8D]
Posted on: 11/22/2011 2:48 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10824449

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
I remember seeing those pics, but I guess I didn't realize there were changes needed to the leading edge as well. Either way I don't think it would be all that difficult, probably an hour or two of work. The end blocks would have to be completely replaced, there's no way to get the flat upper wing surface all the way to the tip with them as they are now.
Posted on: 11/18/2011 9:56 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10818168

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
Wow, thanks Bob! Sent you a PM. Here are a few quick cell phone pictures. As I mentioned the work done on the plane so far is good and straight, but I really think I want to hack off those wingtips blocks, cut off the bottom sheeting and reshape the tips. It almost looks like the sheeting has been redone once already, if you notice the bottom sheeting starts a new section right around that 2nd to last rib bay and slopes up slightly from there, but not quite enough for the scale profile.
Posted on: 11/18/2011 6:28 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10817851

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
Well, skip the question on the forstner bits. Amazon.com has an 8 piece set for 50 bucks, so I went to Lowes to see about just buying one or two bits at 7-8 bucks a piece. I bought the exact same 8 piece set at Lowes for 20 dollars. Usually Amazon is the king of better prices, not so much this time.
Posted on: 11/17/2011 2:16 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10816922

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
Hey guys, I tried so hard to make it through the entire thread before I replied but I finally caved (I am on page 309 though, I'm so close). Last week I picked up a kit that had already been started. The quality of the build is great, I've just been taking my time figuring out what I'm missing and where to start. Right now I have the aileron cores and leading edges, the flap leading edges, and all of the parts to build the rudder on order. Everything else appears to be there, or things I can make on my own. This will be my first attempt at making fiberglass parts, mounting gear doors, laying panel lines, marking out rivets, and painting a plane other than with rattle cans of Rustoleum (the Decathlon in my avatar). It's about my 20th kit build though, so I've been around that block before. Now, here's the questions I have for you guys (so far, more to come I'm sure): 1. The original builder already ran the steel pushrods to the tail, but the bottom of the fuselage has not been sheeted so I have access to them. My intent is to pull them out and replace with carbon fiber rods, but how did you guys route them? I know they don't need to run through a tube or need any support, but did you still run them through holes cut in formers in the places the plans called for? In other words, are the carbon rods rubbing against wood anywhere or do the formers need to be cut more to allow them a clear path to the tail without touching anything? 2. The top of the wing is already fully sheeted, and the bottom is sheeting from the tips in to about the wheel well area. But I don't thing the wing tip profile is quite right. I'm not going for any competitions, but I think the scale tip profile from head on just plain looks better. Is it a bad idea to pull off the sheeting for the last 2-3 rib bays and chop off the balsa tip block to re-shape that? 3. Will I be able to build the ailerons, flaps, and rudder without any plans? The plans didn't come with the kit, and I didn't feel like dropping 50 bucks for a set. I think I can manage okay without though. On the same subject, I don't have any forstner bits for cutting lightening holes in the ailerons and rudder and I don't plan to buy a whole set of them, is there a size in particular you guys would suggest? I could figure this out when I get home I think just based on the height of the fin and counting the number of ribs from the instruction book. 4. I'm planning on using a G-62 and have used a B&B bell/cup mount in the past on a G-38. Unfortunately, it appears Mr. Bennett passed away just 2 months ago and as such his parts are no longer available. What other mount method do people typically use on a G-62? The steel plate with standoffs?
Posted on: 11/17/2011 10:32 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10816620

RE: Watcha Buildin'?
Good thread. I was recently hit with the urge to build a small sport plane (thinking about a Webra .32 I have sitting around for power), but I have no idea what I want. If I could get my hands on a Super Sportster 20 kit that would be sweet, I do miss that plane. Thought about a Sig Kobra also but I'm not too sure about the plastic turtle deck (though I imagine I could form this from balsa without too much headache). I need to crash something to make room if I'm going to build another plane though. My old 4-Star may have to sign up for combat duty next month. :D
Posted on: 9/19/2011 1:13 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10724438

ICU-L ignition battery
I bought an 1100 mAh 2-cell A123 battery to use on my ICU-L ignition powering an Evolution 58gx2, but after some reading about the A123s I learned it's pretty common for them to drop to 6.4V-6.5V and then maintain that voltage until they drop off. Since the ICU-L has a cutoff at 6.5V I'm not really comfortable toeing that line, so I'm going to get a 2-cell lipo. I don't know a ton about lipo batteries, but I'm thinking even the lowest discharge rating (15C) would be sufficient for this purpose. Is that correct?
Posted on: 7/13/2011 1:23 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "MVVS Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10619637

RE: Flex header for MVVS/Evolution 58?
[quote]ORIGINAL: pe reivers That's at least 6 questions, most of which will be answered if you read my web.[/quote] I've seen responses from you like this before. I suppose we should think twice before asking questions in the "Engine Manufacturers Direct Support Forum." No offense Pe, but many of the answers are not on your "web," or are not very easy to find. Frankly I'm not sure what unit of currency "Price €" represents, but if it is US dollars that will give me some of the information I need. [quote]The ''Ø'' symbol is diameter.[/quote] This is what I assumed. This ties into my question about the length. Based on this picture ( http://www.mvvs.nl/MTW/Headers_files/Kruemme-VA-DB.jpg ) the diameter is not constant through the length of the header. It very much appears to get larger towards the end of the header, which is I assume where the diameter is 28mm. So if the header has to be cut to length to fit the airplane, would that not make the diameter at the outlet of the header less than 28mm? [quote]There is no standard length! Standard for what?[/quote] I'm used to tuned pipes for glow engines that don't have a flange on the header or the pipe. The pipe can be cut and uses a slip-on coupler to connect the two. The canister and header I have both have flanges ( http://www.mvvs.nl/images/3202-s.jpg and http://mvvs.nl/images/3204-s.jpg ), with a coupler and a pair of springs. If the setup is too long, can one of the pieces be cut? I presume they can't because of the flanges on each piece but I don't know, and I can't find any documentation. There's very little information about this engine at all, and it just doesn't seem like many people use these engines, or at least there's not much discussion of them on these forums. That's my only complaint about this engine really, which is probably why they're not as popular as some others. People won't buy and use what they can't find any information about. [quote]Adjusting the angle means in this case you can rotate the engine around it's longitudinal axis until parts line up nicely.[/quote] This I understand. Since I'm putting the engine in a round-cowled airplane, that may actually work out. I'll take a look at it when the airframe arrives in the next few days. I located the shipping information I had requested on your page. That's 1 out of my 6 questions I was able to solve on my own. Thanks for what help you're willing to provide on the others.
Posted on: 6/23/2011 8:08 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "MVVS Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10589189

RE: Flex header for MVVS/Evolution 58?
I'm aware of swan neck headers, but I haven't been able to locate any for this engine until now. Now I'm viewing your site (mvvs.nl) and I do see the swan neck headers listed there. Not that I wouldn't want to give you my business, but is there anywhere in the United States to order that? If not, what kind of time frame would it take to ship over? Sorry for these questions, just trying to make some sense of the parts...what is the "Ø" column, and how do those prices convert to US dollars? Lastly, I see on most of the swan neck headers it says specify drop, but on the 58 it just says "For ss-tube reducer 28/25 see ball headers" - also, is the length of the header a standard length or does that need to be cut down? Not sure what you mean about mounting it to the engine and then adjusting the angle. I don't want to be manipulating the angle of the engine any more than the airplane's built in right thrust. If I can't source a header relatively easily I'll just need to go with the pitts style muffler. Thanks for the help Pe!
Posted on: 6/23/2011 12:44 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "MVVS Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10588720

Flex header for MVVS/Evolution 58?
I have an Evolution 58GX2, which I understand is the same engine as the MVVS 58 Prosport. I also have the Evolution canister and header to go with the engine, but the airplane I'm intending to mount it in has a built in tunnel which will require the canister to be directly behind the head of the engine (mounted inverted). Is there a flex header available to fit this engine and canister, or will something custom be required?
Posted on: 6/23/2011 11:59 AM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "MVVS Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10588659

RE: Any plans for 2.4Ghz micro receiver?
I could have sworn I specifically said I was already aware of the [i]current[/i] lightweight options, hence my question about the [i]upcoming[/i] lightweight options. You even quoted my post where I said I knew about them when you replied to tell me about them. [X(] Or are A.T.'s replies automatic responses to any post about Hitec products in general? [:)]
Posted on: 2/16/2011 6:20 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10341602

RE: Any plans for 2.4Ghz micro receiver?
[quote]ORIGINAL: MikeMayberry Yes, there are two micro 5 channel RX's (most planes use dual aileron servos so why build a 4ch?) in the works due later this year that will weight about 4-5grams. One will have the connectors on the top and the other with them on the side. Street price will be around $35. Mike. [/quote] I'm sure it's been discussed but I've read through about a dozen threads on here and rcgroups and haven't seen any mention of it, so I'll ask here. Obviously the micro 5s didn't make it out for 2010, but is there an estimated release date for them? I already know about the Optima 6 LITE and the Minima 6 receivers as well as modifications that can be done to the Optima 6 and am considering all of the above, but the micro 5 channel for about 35 bucks still tops them all when it comes to something to stick in a foamy so I just gotta ask. :)
Posted on: 2/16/2011 1:45 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10340934

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
What he said. Also, I covered with Solartex which seems to stretch and shrink much easier than the typical plastic coverings, so when it came to filling in the notches for the hinge points I just cut a couple of slits around the radius and rolled the covering iron down in there. I painted the entire plane after covering with white Solartex, so any tiny spots of exposed wood left in the notches just got the paint treatment. Can't help much with the engine options. I'm using a G38 (magneto) and with that and a B&B smoke pump in the nose and my battery just behind the servo tray in the tail it balances perfectly. jjoos, the traditional Decathlon scheme would have a base color (in your case red) that is solid on the bottom of the tail, and goes from the leading edge back maybe 20% of the way on the bottom of the wing. For example: http://www.airliners.net/photo/American-Champion-8KCAB-180/1555199 http://www.airliners.net/photo/American-Champion-8KCAB-180/1261251 That's not to say you have to though, here's one with solid red on the underside of the wing: http://www.airliners.net/photo/Untitled-%28Air-Carpatia%29/American-Champion-8KCAB-180/1483550
Posted on: 1/30/2011 8:10 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10301414

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
[quote]ORIGINAL: Nothrottle Twas' knife edging my U-Can-Do 60 when the wing pivot occurred. Yah, the wing bolts were broke off flush with wing mount blocks. Whilst picking through the wreckage of the fuse, the stubs of nylon 1/4'' wing bolts were firmly entrenched in the blind nuts! [/quote] You lost me. You said earlier you had a wing depart where 1/4" nylon bolts were installed using threaded ply, but this anecdote entails a different setup with blind nuts (and yet the bolts failed, not the retention method). I will say the one thing I prefer not to use is nylon bolts into metal blind nuts. It's either nylon to wood or metal to metal for me.
Posted on: 1/28/2011 1:24 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10296001

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
[quote]ORIGINAL: SticknRudder Cobra99, The 1/4'' ply was the first piece in, then the balsa block. Manual gives explicit instruction on drilling, power-tapping and hardening the balsa, so I don't understand - what are you saying?[/quote] You seemed to give the impression that you didn't trust tapping the balsa, as if tapped balsa wood was the only thing retaining the wing
Posted on: 1/26/2011 7:13 PM by Author "Cobra99" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10291539