Hyperion Floats
I have a set of Hyperion 680 mm foam floats which I intend to mount on a Stevens AeroModel XS480. I realize the floats are originally meant for light foamies, and as such, are particularly light. I am concerned about: a. the strength of the mounts, b. if the mounts should be covered with fiberglass or Econokote to prevent the floats from absorbing water, c. and is a water rudder necessary for aircraft control. Would appreciate any advice from anyone who has experience with these floats. My current thoughts are to replace the straw landing gear mounts with brass tubing, reinforce the straw\brass area with a block of balsa, and to run a carbon fiber spar along the length of the float (topside, front to back). For those who are wondering, the XS480 has a wingspan of 47 in, length is 41 in, and flying weight is advertised as 24 oz. Thanks Much!
Posted on: 7/14/2010 10:40 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9865956

RE: jerrys big boy by morris hobbies
Flutter is often caused by loose "fittings." Ensure the clevises fit tightly in the control horns and that there is minimal to no play in the servo bearing\bushing. Any one loose connection can contribute to aileron flutter (or any other control surface). A combination of slightly loose connections can build-up to become a problem. Turn the radio on to check for loose connections and see if you can move the aileron freely without the servo control horn moving, or the servo output shaft moving back and forth. If you find any one or more of those problems, fix it to avoid potential loss of your aircraft. I have seen aileron flutter destroy a wing, and subsequently the whole aircraft.
Posted on: 7/6/2010 11:11 AM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9847624

RE: jerrys big boy by morris hobbies
The Little Boy was not favorably receeived as I recall. I built one and was not impressed. Consider the Florio Flyer .40 for sale on Ebay.
Posted on: 2/9/2010 10:04 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9491510

RE: jerrys big boy by morris hobbies
Msg rcvd. A few projects to finish before I start on the Big Boy and will then decide what to start next. I have been acquiring kits and plans in preparation for my retirement days. I am one of those who prefers to build versus assemble an ARF. I presently have 62 kits and several old kit boxes of plans. I will enjoy retirement!
Posted on: 2/2/2010 10:19 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9471674

RE: jerrys big boy by morris hobbies
I have seen the Big Boy fly and was impressed. I have not seen a Spoiler but have repeatedly heard that it is a better plane. Why? What specifically makes it a better plane? I have a Big Boy kit and would appreciate knowing how I should modify it, if reasonably possible.
Posted on: 1/31/2010 9:51 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9465467

RE: GEE BEE R3 RACER??WOW!!!
r.boen, My first flight was very short. Sunny day, left crosswind, model accelerated well (Tower Hobbies .75), but lifted off sooner that I expected. The model turned sharp left immediately after liftoff and headed for some trees. I was forced to pull-up, missing the trees, but adding to what I later realized was a high alpha, p-factor problem. I leveled off above the trees, but left turn\yaw continued to be a problem. Within seconds the model flew behind the trees which are behind our flightline. Since I couldn't see the model, I reduced throttle to idle and waited for the end result. Surprise, surprise; the model landed in a field of tall corn and was relatively undamaged, only the flying wires were ripped-out. Model is repaired. Corrective action on next flight will be slow acceleration on takeoff, stay on the rudder, and allow the speed to build-up. Thereafter I will check the model at altitude for low speed, high alpha characteristics before landing. CG was and is right on the mark. The cockpit mods were made using Depron foam and cheap craft paint. I just checked, the paint brand is actually called "Craft Paint." The cockpit floor had to be installed in two pieces to get it inside the canopy frame. I installed the mods because I didn't appreciate the appearance of all that wood showing throught the canopy. I would have used a pilot, but didn't find one to suit me. Just as well, he would have died on the maiden flight, probably heart attack. I have decided to leave the flying wires as they are, until I verify how well the model flies before I invest any more time in it. My assumption is that it will fly well, but that it will have to be flown more carefully than a typical Ugly Stick-type model. I too like to use expo as you mentioned, 60 percent or more on my Futaba radios. I do like your idea of using threaded inserts and machine bolts. Even CA hardened holes will wear out, the screws will come loose inflight, the wires will flap around, etc.
Posted on: 2/8/2009 9:56 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Scale Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8454289

RE: GEE BEE R3 RACER??WOW!!!
Quite some time ago, I looked for a video of the Hobby Lobby R3, but couldn't find one. Looked again today. For those who are interested, here is a link to one. Apparently an R3 was flown at a SEFF event. http://www.truveo.com/Hobby-Lobby-Gee-Bee-R3/id/3879843612
Posted on: 2/7/2009 3:33 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Scale Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8449430

RE: GEE BEE R3 RACER??WOW!!!
Avaiojet, After reviewing my post I realized that I did not explain the flying wire problem very well. I don't believe the flying wires on the top of the wing are functional, helpful, but not necessary. However; the wires on the bottom of the wing support the very long landing gear and are necessary. The specific problem with those wires is that the inbord pair on each wing must be disconnected to remove the wing from the fuselage for transport. Those wires are functional and must have a fair amount of tension on them to work properly. That tension is what pulls on the clevis pin and prevents the pin from fitting into the opposite side of the clevis. I can make the clevis pin fit into the opposite side of the clevis, but that requires a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers; meaning that someday, something will slip and damage the covering. The current system works, just very inconvenient. When you assemble your R3 I am sure the inconvenience will become very apparent to you. Part of the solution if I continue to use the current method, is to use better clevises. The clevises supplied with the ARF are apparently cheap imports and the pin wobbles even before first use. Better clevises with a secure pin should help. I don't think stiff rods with clevis ends would solve the problem. Another option might be spring-loaded wires. In the long run, I suspect I will try small turnbuckles. However; given the problems I had with the first flight, I am going to use the current setup, and verify the model flies well enough before I invest more time in it. My current project is to figure out why a Hanger 9 Funtanna X likes to snap violently to the right during what I would call normal maneuvers. I have a list to check: incidence of each wing panel, wing warp, aileron warp, heavy wing, aileron differential, etc. I have already confirmed that CG, control throw, and exponential are okay.
Posted on: 2/7/2009 3:10 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Scale Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8449363

RE: GEE BEE R3 RACER??WOW!!!
r.boen, I am not satisfied with the proposed method of connecting the wing and landing gear wires. Have you considered another method? Attached is a picture of the problem. The clevis pin gets pulled out of alignment, preventing the pin from going into the hole on the other side of the clevis. Also shown are graphics I added to the rudder, pilot backrest, and cowl. I am using a Tower Hobbies .75 which fits fine within the cowl. Someone asked about that in an earlier post. I attempted to upload photos then, but the system kept freezing up. This thread is suprisingly short of R-3 flyers. Are you aware of anyone who has successfully flown one? As expressed in an earlier comment, I crashed mine on maiden flight; I strongly assume due to my failure to account for high AOA and prop factors. It suffered minor damage, is repaired, waiting for better weather to fly.
Posted on: 2/7/2009 12:30 AM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Scale Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8447671

RE: GEE BEE R3 RACER??WOW!!!
Have you finished and flown your R3 yet? As stated in an earlier post, my first flight was a near disaster. Despite an out-of-sight landing in a cornfield, the only damage was broken flying and landing gear support wires. Repairs made, waiting for warmer weather to try again.
Posted on: 1/27/2009 8:41 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Scale Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8409514

RE: GEE BEE R3 RACER??WOW!!!
Apparently I was one of the first to receive the Gee Bee R3 ARF. It arrived with no assembly manual, CD instructions, etc. I called the supplier and learned that the early ARFs were sent without instructions, but that instructions were available online. I had already searched online and found extremely inadequate instructions, even for an experienced modeler. The technician looked at the online instructions and agreed. Much improved instructions were soon available. Now to the point; during that discussion I mentioned that the covering scheme did not match the original ads. His response was simply that "licensing problems" arose and that the scheme had to be changed. I think that the new scheme looks fine, obviously a subjective decision. I did add black stripes to the wheel pants and used my Stika machine to had graphics to the rudder. I also wanted to cover up the fuselage structure showing through the canopy. I used Depron foam to make a cockpit floor and pilot backrest to accomplish that objective. Pictures shown in an earlier post. One gripe; the method of using metal clevises to attach the flying and landing gear support wires is inadequate. If the lines are made tight enough to work properly, tension on the clevis pins prohibits the pin from aligning with the hole on the other side of the clevis; making the clevises particularly difficult to close; needle nose pliers and a small screwdriver are required. I suspect small turnbuckles would be better but have yet to locate some that are small enough. Twelve turnbuckles would be needed. Anyone have any suggestions?
Posted on: 1/27/2009 8:36 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Scale Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8409483

RE: GEE BEE R3 RACER??WOW!!!
[size=6][/size][size=4][/size]Be cautious when pre-drilling the landing gear mount screw holes. Drill too deep and you will penetrate the top of the wing. I added more hardwood to the fuselage where the top side bracing wires attach to the fuselage. The bracing wires are attached in a rather crude fashion and the wires are difficult to attach when sufficiently tight to keep the gear from wobbling. I would use small turnbuckles if I could find some small enough. Also the bracing gear hardware threads were a poor match so I used Du-Bro. One main landing gear axle was not bent properly. Once the gear, but not the wheel pants, are mounted look down on the leading edge of the wing and ensure the landing gear axle aligns with the leading edge or points backwards slightly (toe-In). I believe toe-in is more acceptable that toe-out. My right rear gear toed-out quite a bit and the left gear aligned with the leading edge of the wing. I did not appreciate that the inside of the fuselage showed through the canopy, so I attached a cockpit floor made from depron foam and added a pilot backrest. I could not find a proper looking pilot to fit. The tailwheel was another problem. The tailwheel wire would not mount securely as expressed in the instructions, so I removed the covering and wood in that area, added more hardwood and recovered the fuselage. I could not figure out how the manufacturer intended for the tailwheel pant to be mounted. I simply could not make the wheelpant secure following their instructions, so I clamped the tailwheel wire to the wheelpant with a small brass strap and bolts. Yes, the plane looks great and is constructed and covered very well. I just it hope it eventually flies well. Please let me know if you hear of anyone who has successfully flown it. I must admit, I am still leery about the next flight.
Posted on: 12/6/2008 4:13 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Scale Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8219006

RE: GEE BEE R3 RACER??WOW!!!
[size=4][/size]I finished my R3 and flew it once. Upon takeoff it turned sharp left and headed for trees. I had to pull up to avoid the trees, and it turned even more sharply to the left. I continued to fight the sharp left until the plane went behind trees. Given the circumstances, the plane never reached a safe flying speed. Since I could not see the plane and given that planes with such problems almost inevitably head down, I pulled the throttle to idle and let it hit the ground. To my surprise (and delight!) it landed in a corn field and received minor damage; only the bracing wires were damaged. I, along with friends, verified that flight controls, CG, etc were all fine before and after the flight. I believe the problem occurred because the plane lifted off sooner than I would have liked; meaning a slow airspeed and high angle of attack, circumstances which allow torque and other prop problems to become serious which accounts for the left turn tendancy. I intend to attempt a second flight, but will ensure to keep the nose down on takeoff and build up more speed. I will also be ready to jump on right rudder. I suspect the plane lifted early because of the tall gear. I used a Tower Hobbies .75 with a Pitts-style muffler. Pictures attached.
Posted on: 12/1/2008 9:58 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Scale Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8203386

RE: Spoiler/Big Boy family and friends
Sign me up. I will take plans or kit, whatever is available. I am not opposed to ARFs; I just enjoy spending hours (and hours) in my workshop making something that looks and flies well. G'day, Combat 20
Posted on: 9/9/2008 5:34 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7937499

RE: Spoiler/Big Boy family and friends
Are Spoiler plans available? If so, where? I understand an ARF version of the Spoiler may be available eventually, but I prefer to build. Thanks, G'day, Combat 20
Posted on: 9/8/2008 5:29 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7933714

RE: GEE BEE R3 RACER??WOW!!!
I am currently assemblying the Hobby Lobby Gee Bee R3. Very impressive ARF as far as construction and covering. Instructions are NOW okay. I emphasize NOW because the model comes with no instructions and the instructions that were initially provided online were an absolute joke. The current instructions (Hobby Lobby website) are marked NEW and have so far proven to to okay. Caution: when drilling holes for the landing gear struts, put a wheel collar on the drill bit to prevent it from drilling too far; as in through the top of the wing. Ensure the landing gear axles are aligned properly before attaching the struts to the model. I will be powering mine with a Tower Hobbies .75 with a Pitts-style muffler. The Hobby-Lobby website led me to think the model was recommended for electric power, but I purchased the ARF with intentions of converting to glow. Upon receiving the model, I found that recommended glow engines ranged from .70 to .80 two-stroke or .90 to 1.2 four-stroke. I have completed steps for ailerons, wings, struts and wheel pants, horizontal stabilzer, and rudder. Presently deviating from instructions to install a "floor" in the canopy to add a pilot, instrument panel, and seat. If anyone has encountered any assembly problems, I would appreciate knowing.
Posted on: 8/6/2008 9:25 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Scale Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7817536

RE: Looking for Plans-Wild Thing .40-.45 size
Flipstart: Would you be interested in selling your plans for the .15 Wild Thing?
Posted on: 1/16/2008 11:25 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6920355

RE: TERROR IN THE SKIES !!! If you are faint of heart, paranoid, DO NOT watch this video !!!
The submitter is not doing the RC airplane hobby any favors. Chasing the birds was irresponsible. This thread should be removed.
Posted on: 11/20/2006 11:39 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Aerial Photography and Video"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5021402

RE: Super Seven Programming
Since posting the message I have discovered the answer to my problem. I had not used a Super Seven, but an 8 channel. I suspect some combination of old age, too many radios, and that disease that makes you forget things (and I forget the name of it) had me thinking incorrectly. I have since solved the problem. However, thanks for responding. RCUniverse is a great place to get help. Thanks, G'day, Combat20
Posted on: 6/1/2005 11:57 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3034400

Super Seven Programming
I once used a Futaba Super Seven radio to use the split flap (crow?) option on a Horizon Hobby Ultra Stick. I have since sold the plane and radio, but want to use the crow option on another plane with another Super Seven radio. Can anyone provide instructions on how to set up split ailerons? Thanks, G'day
Posted on: 5/29/2005 1:45 AM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3021391

Super Seven Programming
I once used a Futaba Super Seven radio to use the split flap (crow?) option on a Horizon Hobby Ultra Stick. I have since sold the plane and radio, but want to use the crow option on another plane with another Super Seven radio. Can anyone provide instructions on how to set up split ailerons? Thanks, G'day
Posted on: 5/29/2005 1:43 AM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3021386

RE: Hangar 9 Twist 3D
I installed a Jett .76 on my Twist after a careful break-in on an engine test stand. The engine performed very well on the test stand, but would sag or even quit whenever I performed maneuvers in the Twist. I tried everything I could think of, no change, so I talked to Dub Jett. He sent me an insert for the muffler exhaust, no help, so I, at his suggeston, sent the engine to him. He ran the engine on a test stand and found no problems with it. He flew the engine in a Funtanna and said that it performed very well. Meanwhile, I installed a Saito .82 in the Twist; the Twist and the Saito are great! Fuel\tank were the most suspect, but they performed perfectly fine with the Saito, same tank and fuel lines. I installed the .76 on a Fazer and it performed very well, one of my favorite combinations. The only difference between the two installations was that the .76 was mounted vertically on the Twist, and on the side on the Fazer. The Saito .82\Twist is an awesome combination! The Fazer\.76 is an awesome combination! However; for reasons I cannot assuredly specify, the .76 did not work or the Twist; suspect it did not like vertical mounting. Good luck with yours.
Posted on: 9/29/2004 11:55 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2213967

RE: Hangar 9 Twist 3D
3dsky, I suggest your answer for a better landing gear is the gear sold by DuBro. They are made of something like reinforced nylon, are extremely durable, and provide about 1 1\4 inches more ground clearance. I installed a set on my Twist several weeks ago and couldn't be more pleased. I installed the new gear by drilling-out the old mounting holes to 1\4 inch, glued in short pieces of 1\4 inch dowel, aligned the gear and drilled new holes for 1\4-20 nylon bolts. Just last weekend the aileron control stick on my TX started sticking, as in it would not return to center\neutral. Result was a rough landing that simply sheared the nylon bolts. I am sure the alum gear would have been bent well out of shape.
Posted on: 7/26/2004 10:59 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2026520

RE: Hangar 9 Twist 3D
I have a Saito .82 with APC 14 x 4W prop on my Twist. It will fly fairly flat spins and even climb slowly on most occassions; I have to catch something just right, ailerons I suspect. Here is how I enter a climbing inverted spin: set elevator and rudder for maximum throw on high rate, fly inverted into the wind, slow the plane down to stall speed, give the plane full power and full down elevator suddenly and at the same time, just as the plane pitches back to inverted flight give it full right rudder, then start maneuvering the ailerons a little left or right to get the type of spin you want. Also use less than full elevator, rudder, and\or power after entering the spin and the spin will look much different. Max throw is necessary to help ensure the wing stalls; no stall, no true spin. Recovery is easy, just return all controls to neutral and select low rate on elevator. If you don't select low rate elevator, at least use it judiously to prevent a secondary stall. My Topcap started to do flat spins exceptionally well once I changed the engine to get more power. On the other hand my Fazer which is exceptionally over-powered (Jett .76) won't spin well at all. My point being I am sure that a number of variables affect how well a plane will spin - or not spin.
Posted on: 7/26/2004 9:04 AM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2024203

RE: Hangar 9 Twist 3D
I use 100% expo on Futaba radios. 100% does not provide ALL of the control surface movement at the VERY END of the stick movement. Even at 100% the servos move as you move the sticks. Try it at 60% then 70%, etc. For very maneuverable, pitch sensitive models, 100% is good. Try it, I think you will like it ---------- Mikey. BTW - I don't use expo on throttle; doesn't seem to serve much purpose.
Posted on: 7/26/2004 8:43 AM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2024157

RE: Hangar 9 Twist 3D
Bubbagates, You asked where I set my ailerons - I set them level with the wing chord. BTW, I recently replaced all flight control surface servos with lighter servos (HS 605) and the throttle servo with a HS-81. Those changes meant I could remove lead weight from the nose, put a 1450 NiMh battery aft of the throttle servo and end-up with the CG at 5 inches. Flew the plane that way and was displeased when the plane was difficult to land because the nose would raise up on its own. Tried raising and lowering both ailerons a few degrees but noticed no significant change, so I moved the CG to 4.75 inches. Plane flies great. First model I have had that will do an inverted climbing flat spin. BTW, I am using a Saito .82 and APC 14 x 4W prop.
Posted on: 7/26/2004 1:44 AM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2023724

RE: Hangar 9 Twist 3D
Furyicon, I wouldn't bother sending the wing and fuse back to Horizon. It would take much less time and effort to repair the wing: remove the wing nuts, drill the holes out to 5\16, fill the holes with short pieces of 5\16 dowel, align the wing properly, and then drill new holes for a 1\4-20 tap or for the metal wing nuts. I did just that this evening for a Senior Telemaster I am restoring. Remove the wing nuts by touching them with a hot soldering iron, heated punch etc. Once they get very warm the glue will soften and they will easily punch out.
Posted on: 7/9/2004 1:33 AM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1973894

RE: Ultra Stick 40
I built mine with the intentions of adding floats, but the total flying weight of 6.5 lbs scared me away from adding almost another pound of float gear. I used a Saito .82 and was surprised to need about 3 oz of tail weight. Nevertheless, it flies great and I use it in our club fun flys. I put quad flaps on mine as per instructions, but believe it performs a "dive landing" much better if the radio is programmed to raise the flaps and ailerons, versus splitting them. I tested the plane both ways and it definitely slows down better if all surfaces are raised. Yes, I suggest the US 40 would be a good second plane, particularly if an experienced RC pilot sets it up for you to fly more docile. When you are ready, it can be made to dance. Definitely add support to the landing gear block, be cautious of the wing dowels (they may wear significantly), and I would consider using Du-Bro landing gear. BTW; the Saito .82 with APC 14 x 4w pulls 9.4 lbs. Since the plane weighs 6.5 lbs it has great vertical. It will soon do better because I will rearrange the radio to eliminate the tail weight; along with smaller battery and throttle servo. Good luck.
Posted on: 6/30/2004 11:24 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1950972

RE: Funtana 90!
There has been some discussion on this thread about whether or not a YS 110 would adequately power a Funtana. Today I was testing my YS on a Funtana 90 and was running it with the cowl off and just happaned to notice my fish scale nearby so I hooked it up to the engine mount. The YS 110 pulled 14.1 lbs at 9,100 rpm. I was using Wildcat 15%, APC 16 x 6, and the temp was 70 degrees. The plane weighs 9.5 lbs. Just thought someone would care to know. BTW, I also discovered my YS 110 does not run well on 10% Wildcat.
Posted on: 6/25/2004 11:25 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1936190

RE: Hangar 9 Twist 3D
Really enjoying my Twist. It is a good all-around sport plane. I did not assemble mine to be as light as possible, nevertheless it flies very well, lands at a crawl or faster if desired. A Saito .72 with 14 x 4W prop is the combination I favor. Changes I made: replaced metal landing gear mounting bolts with 1\4-20 nylon, replaced 2-56 control rods on tail surfaces with 4-40, and used screws to secure canopy vs gluing as suggested in instruction manual. Those changes are insignificant, but the reason I bothered to sign-on tonight is to mention a change in the landing gear. I polished the provided alum gear and they work well and look very nice, but do not provide a lot of ground clearance for larger props. I replaced the alum gear with DuBro "Super Strength Landing Gear" and I couldn't be more pleased. The DuBro gear are certainly stronger and more forgiving, the plane still handles well on the ground, sits at a higher of attack but still takes off very well, and most significantly, there is enough prop clearance for "bounce and go's". I don't think anyone should have any doubts about owning a Twist; great value for the money.
Posted on: 6/23/2004 11:24 PM by Author "Combat 20" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1930283