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HALO Jumper for sale (SOLD)
SOLD!!! Selling my RC HALO jumper. Started out as RCSkydiving.com Micro Diver GEN II and still includes all components of this diver including chute, body and jumpsuit. I added a modified 12" action figure with new Hitech HS-82MG servos in the shoulders and a Castle Creations / Berg 4 channel micro receiver in the back. His leg pouch carries the 300mah battery and switch is in his front pouch (battery is a few years old and likely in need of replacement). The chute was made by Dave at RCSkydiving.com from the same material as the real military chutes. All electronics are like new with less than ten jumps on them all landing softly under canopy. The 12" figure is a little heavy for this chute but he still flies ok. The micro diver body is included if you want to go back to it. The micro diver body has had a couple hard landings when the canopy malfunctioned and he is glued together in a few spots. Selling for $160; PM me if interested, Thanks, Joe EDIT: Also includes Micro Diver dropbox with servo, ready to attach to your aircraft. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/73124448@N04/7288852210/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/7288852210_6505f6a702_b.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/73124448@N04/7288850794/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8021/7288850794_95231c0404_b.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/73124448@N04/7288845972/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7236/7288845972_49ea8fed8d.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/73124448@N04/7288847290/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7243/7288847290_458ecb7dc0_b.jpg[/img][/url]
Posted on: 5/29/2012 6:24 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11097521
RE: New HALO jumper
Thanks, I put him together using all 1/6th scale stuff that I pieced together off of ebay. (Except the chute which I got from Dave). Dave, I believe the body was BBI or Dragon. I dremeled out his torso - shoulder area to fit servos and put the micro receiver on his back. His arms were hollow so I filled them with epoxy to make them solid in order to drill a hole through them so I could get to the servo spline screw. The 300mah battery pack fits perfectly in his leg pouch and a switch fits in his ammo pouch.
Posted on: 10/21/2010 10:21 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10083485
RE: Pilot RC 73
Thanks Boostoman, that's exactly what I was looking for bud.
Posted on: 9/3/2010 8:49 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9977920
RE: Pilot RC 73
Can someone give me a measurement from the prop hub to the ground while holding the tail up parallel with the ground (as in take-off or landing attitude)? I'm going to run a 12s setup on this and am trying to figure out what the biggest prop is that I can run with a little clearance for landing bounce. Thanks
Posted on: 9/2/2010 7:15 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9976971
New HALO jumper
Just finished building him, will drop him tomorrow. Total weight with battery, receiver and gear = 11.25 oz. (without parachute). [image]http://a.imageshack.us/img822/2424/frontwchute0270.jpg[/image] [image]http://a.imageshack.us/img816/6655/mountedonotter0263.jpg[/image] [image]http://a.imageshack.us/img833/9817/left0275.jpg[/image] and one with same chute but original body [image]http://a.imageshack.us/img580/2139/diverwflag069.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 8/22/2010 5:06 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9915806
RE: New HALO jumper
Thanks Juan and Riaan. He had 4 successful jumps then did a low altitude hook turn and hit the ground hard on the 5th jump. Suffered a broken arm but I'll have him fixed up and ready to go again next week. No jump pics Juan but I did get some video from my Iphone. Problem is the jumper is barely visible in it; I'll see if I can do some editing to bring him in closer with some digital zoom.
Posted on: 8/8/2010 9:29 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9919733
RE: Modifying a 1/6 scale figure for RC?
Thanks Dave, I was thinking along the same lines. I have a couple figures coming and will be doing some cutting on them trying to give them shoulder replacement surgery using servos as shoulders. (Don't tell the collectors that I bought these from:) Was wondering which servos would work - oz. inches of power, size, etc... and also which chute to go with. I think you were recommending your 49" chute for this; is there any difference besides size with the Hangtime chute?
Posted on: 7/31/2010 7:50 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9901900
Modifying a 1/6 scale figure for RC?
I know someone has done this before, but can anybody share their experience / techniques / pics with me on modifying an action figure into an RC Skydiver. I'll purchase the chute seperately, I just want to know about modifying the body. Thanks, Joe
Posted on: 7/30/2010 9:07 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9898740
RE: What drop plane do you use?
[quote]ORIGINAL: edge_pilot I knew someone would do this! Very cool jump plane. A friend of mine , Mike, found where the Golden Knight team actually used one of these years ago, he also found pictures of the actual plane with the Golden Knight color scheme on it. [/quote] I learned to skydive at the Golden Knights' home drop zone - Raeford DZ in N. Carolina. It was always incredible to watch them, even had them give me tips on packing chutes and jumping - definitely a great place to learn (except for the crazy winds). Now I live in Colorado by the Air Force Academy so this plane (actual) flies over my house all the time. I live between the Academy and the airfield where it refuels. When H9 released it, I knew I had to get one as it is the perfect jump plane for my micro-diver. Dave, Maybe an Ultimate diver in Air Force Academy blue and white pattern - what do you think? I think they would love it up there at the Academy.
Posted on: 7/30/2010 8:38 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9898694
RE: 12 inch - 1/6 scale skydivers?
[quote]ORIGINAL: edge_pilot We do still offer the chute that would work with that size diver. It works best around 2-1/2 lb divers. The Micro chute will not be big enough for that jumper, it is only good for 10oz. [/quote] Dave, Is that the 49" chute, and how long would it take you to make an all grey military HALO chute for me? Thanks, Joe
Posted on: 7/29/2010 6:19 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9897546
RE: What drop plane do you use?
Air Force Academy's Twin Otter skydiving plane 82" wingspan, twin engine. Went with electric setup (Eflite power 32 x 2) so no fuel mess all over my skydiver. I think it's the perfect drop plane - same one used in real life. [image]http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/6708/to0260.jpg[/image] [image]http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/525/to0258.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 7/29/2010 6:07 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9897528
12 inch - 1/6 scale skydivers?
Does anybody produce 1/6 scale RC skydiver bodies? I'd think this would be the perfect size as so many accessories are available in 1/6 scale (GI Joe, etc...) I want to convert a 12 inch GI Joe size HALO jumper into an RC Skydiver and was wondering if there were any rc skydiver bodies out there that would fit into the GI Joe HALO rig? Also wondering about chute size, I have a 9 inch jumper w/chute from rcskydiving.com but I'm not sure how well that chute would hold up to the GI Joe size jumpers.
Posted on: 7/29/2010 9:24 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9896290
RE: SHOW YOUR DROP BOX RELEASE MECHANISM
Thanks for the pics, looks great.
Posted on: 9/16/2008 9:34 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "R/C Sky Diving"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7959406
RE: Proper term for non-toy RC?
They are all toys and we all fly toys. I always tell my neighbors that my toys are just more expensive than the toys you find at walmart. You get out of the RC "Toy" category when you get into the military UAVs that fire real missiles and kill real people. (Of course this is all my opinion only, you can call them whatever you like).
Posted on: 9/8/2008 9:40 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7932402
Looking for Hughes 500D .60 size
I've been looking for a Hughes 500D fuse for my Xcell .60. I prefer the unpainted Century 500D but they are sold out (anyone know when they will be back in stock?). How is the quality on the TT 500D? And does anyone know how the TT 500D in .60-.90 size would fit the Xcell .60 mechanics? Thanks
Posted on: 8/3/2008 6:01 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Scale RC Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7804212
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: gwong Gents, I am about to start building the nose, the manual does not tell you if I should cut the chin block and fuselage sides and top to be flush with the firewall but I do believe this is correct. Can anyone confirm this...thanks. Gord. [/quote] Gord, You have to make it a right angle to the fuse. Since the firewall is angled slightly to the right, this will make the fuse sides extend about 1/8 - 3/16" on the right side and they will be closer to flush with the firewall on the left side.
Posted on: 6/8/2007 11:49 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5961060
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Ticket, First of all, I have to say incredible job on that mustang! I've been catching up on this thread because I haven't read it in a long time. Sorry this is a little late but you asked about weights and I see others posting weights of their aircraft. I know you were looking for finished wing weight and I'll get that for you later after I break my scale out again, but here are some other weights that some of you may find useful. I was trying to find out how much weight gain I'd get from polycrylic and glass so these weights at the bottom don't show radio and landing gear, etc... My total weight, everything installed, ready to fly is 11.5 lbs. Jeffk464, You said yours came out to 8.5 lbs?? I think my kit weighed more than that before I put the engine and radio gear in it. Did you use a bathroom scale to measure that? If that is an accurate finished weight, I'm seriously impressed and I want to know how you did it. I've heard of thining some of the parts such as the ribs but I'm not sure how much that would save? Anyway, here you go from my earlier post: P-51 Build Weights in Grams (1lb = 453 grams; regular size servo weighs approx. 45 - 50 grams) Note: Covered with .75oz FG cloth and Polycrylic Water Based Acrylic. Painted with Behr Metallic Silver Acrylic and Nelson Hobbies Water Based Polyurethane. FUSELAGE: Sanded Fuse Ready to Cover: 1069 Glassed with .75oz FG and Polycrylic WB: 1125 Bondo 907 and sanded: 1134 1 Coat Primer (unsanded) : 1272 Primer Sanded: 1180 Cockpit added: 1257 2 coats Behr Silver Acrylic: 1282 Paint (all colors) complete 5-6 coats WBPU: 1300 With clear coat (3 coats): 1319 Total gain from glassing and painting (fuselage): Approx. 170 grams WING: Sanded Wing Ready to Cover: 1035 Glassed and primer (sanded): 1083 1 coat Behr Silver Acrylic: 1090 All paint added (5-6 coats Nelson WBPU): 1128 Clear coats added (3-4 coats): 1152 Total gain from glassing and painting (wing): Approx. 117 grams TOTAL GAIN FROM COVERING (ENTIRE AIRCRAFT): 287 Grams / .63 lbs
Posted on: 5/17/2007 10:20 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5868707
RE: Weight Gain with Polycylic and FG
Crash, Thank you, that is what I was looking for. After converting your Oz. to grams, and taking into account my mustang has a little more surface area, it looks like the two methods come out to about the same weight gain. That confirms what I have read before but this is the first time I have seen actual numbers on it.
Posted on: 2/8/2007 9:47 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5388426
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mustang Fever Wow. Cpig, I hope mine comes out looking half as nice. That is one gorgeous bird. Which 4S engine is in there? I think you said, but I forgot. [/quote] Thank you Mustang Fever, It's a Saito 120. Close Zope but a 100 won't cut it for me on this thing, especially at this altitude. I originally had a .60 2 stroke on my first one and it was way underpowered
Posted on: 2/4/2007 10:59 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5369248
RE: Lightest Finish for a Great Escape
Fazer, I just finished my 1/7 scale Top Flight Mustang with .75oz FG and Polycrylic (instead of epoxy). It came out to about the same weight as monokote. Look at this thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5365620/tm.htm The monokote covering on his plane came out to around 8ozs. My plane is larger and my glass/polycrylic/paint covering came out to around 9ozs. I even used automotive primer and bondo 907 (just sanded a lot before final painting). I could've got even lighter by using a .50oz cloth and not applying a clear coat(s).
Posted on: 2/4/2007 10:41 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5369177
Weight Gain with Polycylic and FG
I just finished covering my Top Flight GE P-51 (1/7th Scale). I wanted to know what type of weight gain I would get so I bought a gram scale before I started building. Below are my results after finishing. I'd like to know how much total weight gain I would have gotten with other covering methods, especially monokote. If anyone can tell me I'd appreciate it. P-51 Build Weights in Grams (1lb = 453 grams; regular size servo weighs approx. 45 - 50 grams) Note: Covered with .75oz FG cloth and Polycrylic Water Based Acrylic. Painted with Behr Metallic Silver Acrylic and Nelson Hobbies Water Based Polyurethane. FUSELAGE: Sanded Fuse Ready to Cover: 1069 Glassed with .75oz FG and Polycrylic WB: 1125 Bondo 907 and sanded: 1134 1 Coat Primer (unsanded) : 1272 Primer Sanded: 1180 Cockpit added: 1257 2 coats Behr Silver Acrylic: 1282 Paint (all colors) complete 5-6 coats WBPU: 1300 With clear coat (3 coats): 1319 Total gain from glassing and painting (fuselage): Approx. 170 grams WING: Sanded Wing Ready to Cover: 1035 Glassed and primer (sanded): 1083 1 coat Behr Silver Acrylic: 1090 All paint added (5-6 coats Nelson WBPU): 1128 Clear coats added (3-4 coats): 1152 Total gain from glassing and painting (wing): Approx. 117 grams TOTAL GAIN FROM COVERING (ENTIRE AIRCRAFT): 287 Grams / .63 lbs
Posted on: 2/3/2007 2:34 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5365620
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
I'm 95% finished, all I have to do is install the radio gear and glue the control surfaces on. Here are a few pics: (I know the USAAF insignia is on the right/wrong wing but I had a small blemish I had to cover there. [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/140685.jpg[/image] [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/140686.jpg[/image] You can see some of the rivet and panel line detail here. I wanted to keep them subtle. [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/140687.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 2/3/2007 10:29 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5364714
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
[image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/140691.jpg[/image] [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/140692.jpg[/image] [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/140693.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 2/3/2007 10:27 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5364752
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
More: [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/140688.jpg[/image] [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/140689.jpg[/image] [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/140690.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 2/3/2007 10:26 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5364742
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Scott, Where were you when I did my sheeting!!! I like how that technique sounds, I'll be sure to try it on my next build (might do the Spitfire). Also, I am pretty much finished with the Pony build. I'll be posting pics next week when I return from a trip. (Testing new guns - I love my job). Thanks for the input bud. Joe
Posted on: 1/27/2007 8:05 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5332533
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: bull51 Hey sticktickler, good to hear from you. I know there's a lot of people here waiting on a maiden flight report. You have flown her, right? How about that flight report??? bull [/quote] Yep I want to see some pics with that report too. I was waiting to hear about it months ago when I first read this forum, then you dropped off and left us hangin. I thought you must have crashed it on your maiden and were too frustrated to post anything. Glad to see you've still got her in one piece.
Posted on: 1/18/2007 8:31 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5286890
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Excellent explanation of the process there Skylark. I read a lot of articles before trying it and decided that I may be able to save a little time and weight by applying the panel lines after sanding the fiberglass/polycrylic bondo covering smooth (before applying the first coat of primer). The less coats of primer I had to use the better. Primer is very heavy and also a pain to sand off. I applied one thick coat of primer over the panel lines then sanded. So far it has worked out very well. I have added the rivet details and my first couple coats of paint. (More pictures to follow). For the rivets I used a hobby/woodburning soldering iron with a piece of 1/16" brass rod affixed to the tip. After the iron builds up heat just touch it to the spot were the rivet goes and it melts it right into the primer coat. Couple things to note here: 1. The rivets burn very well into the primer but not so well in the few small areas where I had sanded through the primer coat. 2. A woodburning iron works better than a standard soldering iron for this as the handle is closer to the tip giving you better control. 3. I think 1/32 tape would work best for the panel lines. I had 1/64" and couldn't figure out were the sticky side was - it would twist and I couldn't even tell because it was so thin. I couldn't find 1/32" so I used 1/16". It looks good but it is a little too thick for a true scale look. I'm not shooting for Scalemasters though, so I think I'll be alright. Once you finish with the rivets and peeling the panel line tape off, very lightly clean up all lines and rivets with 320 sandpaper. Then you are ready for paint.
Posted on: 1/16/2007 9:02 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5276551
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: sabre1205 Almost Done Anyone have any tips about glassing the model I hate using film as it shows every little imperfection [/quote] Sabre, Yours is looking good so far. For glassing, I did the polycrylic and fiberglass technique. The advantages are, lightweight, very easy to apply, easy to clean up with water and no fumes so you can use it indoors. The disadvantage is a minor loss of strength over the epoxy method. I used Minwax Polycrylic (not polyurethane) and 3/4 oz. FB cloth. I did two coats of poly over the cloth, then after a few hours I added a third coat of poly mixed about 5 to 1 with microballoons (can use talc also). This coat is meant as a lightweight filler. I then sanded. Most of the weave was filled by this time but there were some low spots and some weave left in other spots. I then used bondo 907 glazing creme (red stuff) to fill the low spots and any remaining weave. I applied it with a body work spreader over the entire surface. Try to keep it as thin as possible but don't worry if it gets too thick as it sands off easily. Once that is dry sand with 220 until smooth. Don't worry about weight gain with the bondo 907. After you sand it there will be almost nothing left and the weight gain was almost unnoticeable. Also, this bondo is not as heavy as the stuff you use to fill big gaps on your car. Next I laid down my panel lines with chart pac tape. Now, spray on a heavy coat of automotive primer, and wait at least four hours before sanding if dry sanding. Sand with the panel line tape still on. Try to get as much primer off without sanding completely through. The primer is where I got most of my weight gain. So far it is turning out pretty light. I've been measuring with a gram scale and the weight added with the polycrylic and 3/4 oz. FB has been insignificant. The heaviest part by far was the primer coat. I'll give you specific numbers when I'm finished. Here are a few pics: Joe Wing glassed, with bondo 907 and sanded [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/135153.jpg[/image] Wing primed and sanded [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/135154.jpg[/image] Fus with bondo 907 and sanded [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/135155.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 1/14/2007 11:31 AM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5263123
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: justrfb Sabre1205, I am building the same plane (have been for years...) and may I respectfully offer that you may want to think about changing out your mini-servo driving your flaps to something more robust. Those flaps are pretty big and you are driving both off of a mini... Also, the two 90 degree bends in your flap push rod may allow for a fair amount of flex, if not bend. Your build looks great and I wish you many, many happy flights... Maybe someone else can either "second" my concerns for your situation or dismiss them as hog-wash. Best wishes... [/quote] I would have to agree with justrfb that a mini servo is way under strength to power two flaps, even if you're not at full speed. Good thing about your design though is that if your servo does fail I would think that the drag from the wind will push both flaps back to the full up setting. I really don't think it will be catastrophic, even if it does fail. If you had seperate flap minis and one failed, that's where I think you might have a problem.
Posted on: 1/11/2007 9:31 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5250837
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Almost ready to cover: [image]http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3086/6735/131123.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 12/30/2006 6:16 PM by Author "Cpig"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5184211
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