RE: Gimbal tension springs for JR 9303
[quote]ORIGINAL: gefisher Has anybody replaced gimbal tension springs in the JR 9303 before? I broke one on my aileron gimbal and need to just replace all of them while I have it apart ! Didn’t really want to send it in all my planes are on it…. I would like to do it myself but looks like it may be a little tricky! Gary [/quote] I've replaced the springs at one time or another on pretty much every transmitter I've had including the latest Hitec Aurora 9. I've never done a 9303 but a JR 652 and several 8103's. It's not very difficult if you have a small pair of locking forceps. Next best is a good pair of tweezers and a steady hand. If you have any 1/32" piano wire make yourself a short tool with a small hook bent at the end for lifting and stretching the spring into place on the posts. You can also use a small paper clip straightened out then bent with a small hook. Install the spring on the bottom post first then stretch it with the wire tool to hook over the top post. Radio South has gimbal springs that are bit stronger than stock which is what I put in all my transmitters. I like more tension on the gimbal than what the stock springs provide.
Posted on: 3/26/2012 6:01 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11016282

RE: LiFePo batteries
If it was me, I would cycle the batteries to determine what their capacity actually is. Even though they took a charge their capacity may be greatly diminished. You'd want to know this before putting them in a valuable airplane. Good luck! Curt
Posted on: 9/25/2011 8:51 AM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10733175

RE: Midwest Push Pins Not a Bargain
I like Hobby Lobby's pins. That's the one in Nashville. Used them for years and never a problem: http://www.hobby-lobby.com/pins.htm?pSearchQueryId=1710398 The ones I have are orange but everything else is the same.
Posted on: 8/12/2011 1:51 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10667737

RE: Drill press milling vice
I have one of these and have used it with success. If you're looking for high accuracy, this isn't the way to go but general/light milling definitely [i]can[/i] be done with it, using a good drill press. The keys to success for me were these: First, I very carefully adjusted the milling vice to get the best movement and least amount of play. There are adjustment screws for this and the factory settings are no where near what they should be so you'll need to play with it to get it reasonably smooth and accurate. Second, I only use it for aluminum or wood, nothing any harder. Third, I take slow, light cuts. Don't try to take too much material too fast with it or chatter will ruin the piece. Use a good quality, sharp mill and cutting fluid with aluminum. Don't be surprised if it wears out the bearings in your drill press pretty rapidly. The aren't designed for side loads. Practise on a piece of scrap until you get to work for you.
Posted on: 4/24/2011 10:02 AM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10482078

RE: MT 35 Looks Like a Winner
[quote]ORIGINAL: tele1974 Replaced the gears and they are still sloppy.   I guess I am expecting too much from those servos.  I talked to Hitec about it and they told me that they are their lower end servos and I should get better servos.  I have 7955's in another plane.  But,  600 bucks for servos, not happening. [/quote] Not to hijack the thread but... Take a look at Hyperion Atlas servos. They're also made in Korea and appear to be very high quality at reasonable prices. I'm running them in my pattern birds with excellent results. http://www.allerc.com/servos-hyperion-c-40_259.html
Posted on: 2/16/2011 12:49 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10340804

RE: Sealer for fabric
[quote]ORIGINAL: whatwheel [size=1][/size] I looked on system threes site and they have a lot of stuff how can i find what you used ? thanks Glenn. [/quote] It's call "WR-LPU Topcoat". Here's the link: http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/WR-LPU-Topcoat-c29.htm BTW, you'll need to order the cross-linker seperately if you buy the 4 oz bottles. You'll find it on the last page. Since only 6 - 8 drops are used per ounce of paint a 1 oz. bottle will go a long way.
Posted on: 1/13/2011 2:47 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10261154

RE: Sealer for fabric
PolyC is not glow fuel proof. Even 0% nitro methanol-based fuel will cause it to soften. Nelson's Clear worked great as a fuel-proofer over PolyC when used with the cross-linker but sadly, Jerry has had to close up shop. I went to System Three's website (what Nelson's was based on) and low and behold you can get the Clear gloss and satin from them. It even comes in small quantities (4 oz.) for a fairly reasonable price. Use the cross-linker that goes with it for a fuel proof (at least 15%) finish. BTW, I use the cross-linker even when I don't need the fuel-proofiness like on electrics because the finish is harder and more durable after curing. Curt
Posted on: 1/12/2011 12:08 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10258277

RE: Radian & Monokote?
Before you spend too much time cutting the squares out, cut one square and try it. I've used Trim Monokote on my Radian but it does not stick very well to the foam and peels easily. I ended up using clear Scotch tape over the edges to keep the trim from peeling up.
Posted on: 1/6/2011 7:41 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10244860

RE: Find Cheap Carbon Fiber rods
Check Hobby Lobby... http://www.hobby-lobby.com/carbon_fiber_rods_strips_420_ctg.htm Good selection of rods and tubes at excellent prices with free shipping if order over $50.
Posted on: 1/2/2011 12:18 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10234379

Throttle lock switch odd behavior
I programmed switch D to activate the throttle lock feature on my Aurora 9 V1.07(2). It works properly except when I first turn the transmitter on and go into transmit mode, the throttle lock is not on even though the programmed switch is in the correct position. Also, the "Plane" icon on the screen will allow throttle lock to be engaged by pressing for two seconds which it normally does NOT do when a switch is programmed for throttle lock. After I cycle the programmed throttle lock switch one time everything works properly. This behavior seems odd to me. As a safety feature for some rather large electrics, I wanted an automatic (engaged at power on and transmit) throttle lock that I didn't have to remember to set. For some reason the processor appears to ignore the position of the programmed throttle lock switch until it's actuated at least once. As far as I can tell, it doesn't do this on any other control. Why does it work this way and is it possible to change this behavior?
Posted on: 12/31/2010 6:17 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10230763

RE: Solartex and Poly-Tak
Klasskote is nothing like Nelson's. Nelsons / System 3 is a water-based single part paint that has virtually no odor. only the primer is two-part. Klasskote is a two-part epoxy similar to the old K&B Superpoxy system. It is definitely not low-odor. I sure hope someone picks up at least the paint supply part of Nelson's Hobbies. AFAIK there's no other way to get the perfectly matching Monokote, Ultrakote and military colors he had. I've got just enough red, white, and black to finish one more airplane... [:(]
Posted on: 12/12/2010 2:49 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10192804

RE: Aurora 9 Firmware upgrade issue
Thanks for the quick response, Alan. That got it. A case of not RTFP on my part...
Posted on: 11/26/2010 8:51 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10161636

Aurora 9 Firmware upgrade issue
I'm having an odd problem with upgrading the firmware in my Aurora 9 transmitter, currently at V1.06... I downloaded the latest HPP-22 software/firmware (1.04) from the Hitec site and installed it on on my computer. The computer has never had this software installed before so there was nothing to uninstall. I hooked everything up per the system upgrade manual and on-screen instructions. I have no trouble getting a connection to the transmitter every time I run the software. What I DON'T get is the pop-up illustrated in the manual to upgrade the firmware. The program immediately goes into the upload/download screen and displays the transmitter's firmware as 1.06. Communication with the transmitter is good because I'm able to back up my model "sets" to my PC. I searched the forum and found several mentions of people not seeing the firmware upgrade pop-up but I did not see any resolution. Anyone know what's going on and how to fix it? Thanks, Curt
Posted on: 11/26/2010 4:26 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10161207

RE: Moki Engines Thread
I love my 210's. There easy to start, easy to tune, and extremely reliable. I run mine on Omega FAI with added (3 oz per gallon) castor. The Pitts M12 was scratch built from my own plans about 7 years ago. It weighs in at about 15 lbs and flies like a dream. The Stinger is a blast with the 210. Hovers at 1/3 throttle.
Posted on: 9/2/2010 4:45 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9976609

RE: Carbon Fiber Tubes
[quote]ORIGINAL: buchtes I'm looking for a .187 ID CF Tube source, any Ideas? [/quote] Goodwinds kites has a good selection of pultruded carbon tubes. The 0.281 OD tube has an ID of 0.186 - very close to what you're looking for. ID on pultruded tubes is nominal - it can vary slightly from batch to batch but usually it's pretty close. http://www.goodwinds.com/goodwinds/merch/list.shtml?cat=carbon.pultrudedcarbon
Posted on: 8/27/2010 9:05 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9964401

RE: What is it? Another identify me....
[quote]ORIGINAL: dhal22 [quote]ORIGINAL: CurtD Sure looks like it... One I built a few years ago for an SPA buddy: [/quote] your's looks better.[:D] [/quote] Didn't last long, unfortunately. Destroyed in a mid-air after only a few flights...[&o]
Posted on: 7/29/2010 10:08 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9898010

RE: the Invisible Mini
If it was me, I'd contact Fiberglass Specialties about the problem before I did anything to the cowl. A 1/16" error in alignment of the two halves would be unacceptable to me. I'd ask them to replace it.
Posted on: 7/28/2010 11:16 AM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9894000

RE: What is it? Another identify me....
Sure looks like it... One I built a few years ago for an SPA buddy:
Posted on: 7/27/2010 3:17 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9892073

RE: Spraying latex
[quote]ORIGINAL: vertical grimmace Well, I got the mig painted today. i need to do some detail work but it worked quite nicely. It took a little bit to get everything sorted out. It seemed to like 40psi the most and thinned maybe 1/2 and 1/2 . looks really good. I did find a bottle of Nelsons clear that I have lying around. i may try that. I am not sure I have enough though. Only one little pint bottle. Will this go over the Latex OK? I used Behr. I do have the little catalyst bottle for making the Nelson's somewhat fuel proof. It did get a little wrinkly as i was letting it sit out in the sun. I have sine removed them from the wing. I was painting over Solartex. It will be quite lovely I believe when it is all done. [/quote] Don't forget to add the cross-linker to the Nelson's clear if you need it to be fuel proof. I would put on at least three coats if you spray it on since the Nelson's is applied in thin, mist coats. Fewer coats = pinholes, which will allow fuel to slowly get to the paint underneath.
Posted on: 6/28/2010 8:26 AM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9831398

RE: the Invisible Mini
Using water-thinned acrylics or latex paint applied heavy enough to soak into the wood will almost certainly cause warping. I would not want ANYTHING water-based on the wood. Just a thought but you might consider checking out an art store such as Michaels for Magic or dry-type "art" markers. They come in numerous colors and dry almost instantly when applied. They would work more like stain than paint on balsa. Doing large sheeted areas will be a challenge.
Posted on: 6/28/2010 8:11 AM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9831377

RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Jim_McIntyre [quote]ORIGINAL: 5487 Anyway, is dope & fabric covering dead?[/quote] Nope.[8D] [/quote] Ed Zachry!
Posted on: 6/17/2010 8:50 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9810140

RE: Plasticized dope mixture
[quote]ORIGINAL: Michaelj2k Non taughtening nitrate and butyrate dopes have been plasticized by the manufacturer. I use them on silk covering and nary a warp develops. Use the appropriate thinners for each, clean your brushes and spray gun with acetone or mek. [/quote] I agree. The finish on my Pitts M12 (my avatar) is butyrate dope over nitrate over dacron glider fabric. It's still as bright and flexible as when it first flew over five years ago with no signs of cracking or aging. I just finished a minor repair to one wingtip that I accidently bashed into the shop door and the repair is almost invisible with the new colors matching the old perfectly. Modern butyrate needs nothing more than thinner, retarder, and patience. Curt
Posted on: 6/17/2010 8:44 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9810129

RE: Epoxy Paint
I'd like to offer a suggestion that you might want to consider. There's another way to go besides painting with rattle-cans even if you don't have spray equipment. I've used the Preval Sprayer as shown here: [link=http://www.amazon.com/Preval-Spray-Power-Unit-Container/dp/B001ENSKUY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1275258649&sr=8-1]Preval sprayer[/link] One power unit will spray up to 16 oz of paint (more than a single rattle-can). I used Nelson Hobby paints which are water-based and totally fuel-proof when the cross linker is added to the mixed paint before spraying. Here's a link to their website: http://www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html Being water-based there's no smell and water is used for thinning the paint as well as clean-up. It works differently than enamels (more like lacquer - thin, mist coats allowed to dry before recoating, about 20 mins) but is very easy to use and the results are a tough, fuel proof (I use 30% heli fuel in my DirtyBirdy), and high-gloss finish.
Posted on: 5/30/2010 6:47 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9769564

RE: Midwest Little Cap
If built carefully and light the Little Cap is not a bad flyer. The ST .75 will do okay but it won't have the kind of performance I think one would expect of this type of model. The ST .90 would be a better choice if ur going with ST's, IMO. Mine has an OS .91 4S on it and while it has good performance, it doesn't have the vertical I would like. BTW, start with the CG at the forward end of the envelope and move it back a little at a time. The Little Cap is sensitive to rearward CG and will develop a nasty tip stall and snap if it's too far rearward.
Posted on: 7/11/2005 8:06 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3157493

RE: Nelson Clear Coat question
;t yellow. I've used it to seal and fuelproof decals too, with excellent results. CurtD
Posted on: 10/16/2004 9:56 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2260338

RE: fabric covering
for me to switch, but it might be important on a sailplane. CurtD
Posted on: 10/16/2004 9:26 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2260269

RE: Servo Loading
Johnny, if you have Microsoft Excel, I have an excellent servo load calculator spreadsheet that I've used extensively. It has graphic representations of your setup and can tell you reasonably accurately what your servo loads will be, allowing you to choose the correct servo for the application. Let me know and I can send it to you via PM. CurtD
Posted on: 10/16/2004 8:57 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2260204

RE: Amazing Moki 2.1 fuel consumption
Sounds about right. That's about the same fuel consumption I see with same engine in my Pitts M12. 20oz tank gives me about 12-14 minutes in the air with fuel to spare for go-arounds. I don't run full throttle much either. Don't need to. Running a Zinger Pro 20x10 and FAI. Tachs 76-7800 on the ground.
Posted on: 6/15/2004 8:04 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1905612

RE: Shortening Robart Hinge Points
As long as the hole is snug they'll stay in with no problems. Just use a toothpick or something similar to work the glue into the hole and coat the sides. Apply a little to the hinge point itself and push it in. I've never had a Robart hinge break or come out.
Posted on: 6/3/2004 7:13 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1871143

RE: Pitts S-12
Well, I got to watch Sebastiano Silvestri (sp?) fly Bob Trueworthy's new 41% Model 12 (the lighter one) at Joe Nall and they're ain't no question that it does 3D very well. Silvestri did some pretty spectacular flying with it (was to me at any rate). He Harrier'd it in for his final landing with about a 3 mph forward speed, touched the tail and put the mains on the runway smooth and pretty as you please. It rolled about 4 feet. Since I don't fly IMAC I couldn't say how it would do for competition. I think Bob has a DA-150 in that one. It's a great design - very straight forward, strong, and not difficult to build. I used his 35% plans to build a 25% version powered by a Moki 210 that flies very well.
Posted on: 6/3/2004 7:06 PM by Author "CurtD" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1871122