RE: How old are you?
14 years old. Built my plane 2 months ago, never got the chance to fly yet.
Posted on: 10/26/2009 1:28 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9202369

RE: Silly Engine! Bolts should be tight!
Okay, so I came bark today and ran it, and luckily the loctite didn't take. I had to tighten the bolts once more, but hopefully I won't hawe to in the future. I figured out that it was my prop causing excess vibration. It had rubbed on something just slightly before and was a little bit imbalanced. I changed out props today, and now it runs like a champ. I'm running it rich like you guys told me to, and hopefully it will run well for years to come. I have to make a trip to the hobby store, though, becasue I found that my glow plug is not sealed very well. I can feel air leaking out of it when I hand-spin the prop, and I tightened it up and it still leaked. Then I tried a dead plug. That doesn't leak. I'll get a bunch of plugs today or tomorrow and hopefully will maiden in the next month if weather permits.
Posted on: 10/13/2009 7:25 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170781

Silly Engine! Bolts should be tight!
I've had my $25 swap meet SuperStar 40 and Thunder Tiger GP-42 built for some time now, now that I think about it it's been about 9 months! But my engine never got broken in. Both the plane and engine were old-new "stock." Yesterday I was running the engine as per instructions and I noticed a gradual drop in RPMs at WOT. It eventually slowed and ran out of fuel, so I filled it back up. It wouldn't start. I checked the glo plug. Checked the fuel lines, and I noticed my fuel tank worked its way backward, cutting off fuel. I made a shim so that it would stay in place, and started it. I alternated throttle settings as per instructions, and still there was that drop in RPMs. It eventually quit, and I tried to start it again. Nothing. I poured a little fuel into the carb. I cranked the engine, and I then saw the "windshield" was coated with glow fuel! I couldn't see where the glow fuel came from! After some close examining, I found it must have leaked out of the head-block seal. The head bolts were a bit loose, so the engine must have been losing compression gradually as the bolts worked their way out until the point where it failed. So I put some blue loctite on, tightened the bolts, charged my radio, did my homework, and went to bed. My question is: Why did the bolts come loose? Why didn't TT have lock washers or something on those bolts? Was the engine just running a little hotter than I guess it's "supposed" to? I was running 15% nitro (I'm sorry little engine, my hobby store didn't have 5 or 10%!) so maybe that gave it some punch? Also: EVERYTHING has to be checked after you run the engine on the plane for the first time! I had the fuselage restrained with 2 brake drums and 2 cinder blocks mind you, but that little thing vibrated every screw out a little bit! Loctite everything you won't be messing with and lock-washer everything else! You don't want that plane coming apart on you mid-air or worse: mid-landing! My nose gear was really lose after that!
Posted on: 10/13/2009 1:52 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9168770

RE: Hobbico Superstar 40 CG
Wow, looking at this manual shows me that they have made the model significantly easier to assemble, especially the control rod assembly instructions. The newer model has control rod guides pre-made, whereas I made my own to improve the control smoothness. they also say to make a Z-bend next to the throttle so the control rod doesn't have to bend and bind. My manual didn't say that. It looks like it's an easier plane to assemble because of those minor improvements and the instructions are a lot better. I'm glad they fixed that.
Posted on: 8/18/2009 2:23 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9025778

RE: Hobbico Superstar 40 CG
Thanks. It turns out my manual was just old since I got my plane at a swap meet, unbuilt with engine (and some bubbles and wrinkles in the covering), for $25. My plane has a different tail number than the one on the new manual, so that's what leads me to my conclusion.
Posted on: 8/18/2009 2:10 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9025743

RE: Super Cub LP Jitter
My friend and I learned that the medium-hard way, if you will. I turned my cheap Pro-Pulse car on before the TX and it took off full-bore at my friend's ankle. The car was okay, but his foot bled.
Posted on: 8/18/2009 2:06 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9025735

Hobbico Superstar 40 CG
So I finally finished my plane a month or 2 ago, and I was super happy. But then I realized that my plane's instructions just stopped after they talk about testing servo throw and control surface gauging. I'm not missing any pages, it just seems like they forgot the section about adjusting the CG. Should I just check out an Avistar manual for a close estimate?
Posted on: 8/18/2009 1:59 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9025715

RE: Avitars
I used the GIMP. It's free and a fairly powerful tool.
Posted on: 7/11/2009 2:35 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8923431

RE: Not enough prop?
It seems to me the best way to know is to fly it and experiment with different props. If it works better with a different prop, use that one!
Posted on: 7/10/2009 9:15 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8922837

Safe engine mods
I heard that there were a few safe, simple mods that one can do to a .40-size engine. My only current engine is a Thunder Tiger GP-42 that I got with my SuperStar 40 at a swap meet for $25, unbuilt and unused. I looked up the MSRP for the GP-42 and it's like $50 or $60, so it really isn't the hottest or spendiest engine. I still value it, though, so I want to hear of some safe engine mods. One I heard about was simply taking the baffle thing out of the muffler. How much power would I gain? An then, what if I added a tuned pipe?
Posted on: 7/6/2009 7:16 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8911537

RE: Hobby-lobby Su-34 Fullback Vectored Thrust Jet
Wow, that big of a battery for only 4 minutes of flight? That seems strange...
Posted on: 7/6/2009 4:57 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8911251

RE: PCM- Is it worth it?
[quote]ORIGINAL: jetmech05 I have a Futaba 9 cap and my daughter has the 7 cap..I know that on the 9 cap you can change between PPM and PCM, I do it all the time. I'm pretty sure you can on the 7 cap but can't swear to it.....Are you sure you can't change between the 2 on the 6 channel? it would be in the parameters menu..... I don't understand why you have to fly the same freq as your dad at all times.....seems to be if you're still buddy boxing that your transmitter as the master to his as the salve will work....the salve remains in the off position.....there is no license required to operate a Radio Control aircraft..... Did I miss something? [/quote] First: I don't need to switch as I just have another radio for my standard PPM 72MHz FM receiver. Second: I have to have my dad WITH me at all times, not FLY on the same frequency. To use the ham band, I have to be with a licensed amateur radio operator.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 2:37 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8888398

RE: Servos
I said I refused to buy RadioShack's expensive, crappy packs, so I built my own using Duracell 2650mAh AA's. Hope that clears everything up. They are just what I had at the time, an they aren't heavier than NiCds, plus the cells are cheap so I buy more if my fast charger kills 'em.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 2:31 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8888390

RE: RCU Roll call time..Where are you from?
Everett, Washington!
Posted on: 6/28/2009 5:33 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887505

RE: Speaking of Hobby Shops...
I lost the only other hobby store in my area just before I got into this hobby! My current one isn't out of business by any means, but they stock very inconsistently (I can't buy 1/43 slot cars there until they sell more 1/32s). They also have high prices on necessities like epoxy and CA. When I want to get a glow plug, the guy didn't care to ask what fuel I ran or what kind of engine it was, so I told him. He said "what?" He brought a different guy in, who just grabbed me a generic short plug "that should work for a .42". Then, I got home, and I needed a long one! It pisses me off... By the way: How much does a gallon of your favorite glow fuel cost you at your local store? I have to pay $30 a gallon for 15% nitro!
Posted on: 6/28/2009 4:08 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887448

PCM- Is it worth it?
So I got a nice, PCM 1024 6ch Futaba tx. It has the replaceable RF modules, so I swapped in my ham-band 50MHz module in (my dad has a license, and I'm gonna get mine soon, so I have to operate with him at all times). I already had a 50MHz PCM 1024 rx, so it was all good. BUT! I had installed my normal 72MHz band receiver in my trainer before the PCM transmitter arrived, so I don't want to take it out since servo tape leaves sticky crap everywhere and is hard to peel without ripping. So my question is: Is it worth it? I know that I would probably be almost worry-free in terms of interference from other things due to the 50 MHz exclusivity, and the dual-conversion means that other radios (where people are talking) won't interfere. What are the advantages of PCM over standard digital proportional?
Posted on: 6/28/2009 3:46 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887430

RE: Ready to maiden?...HELP
Yeah, I had to mess with my control rods at least 6 times before I got just the right combination.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 3:29 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887424

RE: Timer recommendations
I taped the "Chronometer" from my dad's old '78 Chrysler LeBaron onto my radio, and I can run it off the radio's battery! When the display gets dimmer, I know I'm running out of batteries. And we scrapped the car, so the clock and the carb from that car are all we have left of it...
Posted on: 6/28/2009 3:26 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887421

RE: Servos
I build my packs out of Duracell cells. I get em at Safeway for $10/4 batteries! I've bought like 4 packs already...
Posted on: 6/28/2009 3:02 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887397

RE: need help cox motor
Oil and nitro aren't the same. Take it apart like JohnBuckner said. the carb isn't really a carb, it's just one needle valve and two ports (a fill and a vent). You probably do have a tank, it's the rounded thing behind the piston and head and stuff.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 2:58 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887389

RE: Servos
Precisely. And I was sort of kidding about the gallon thing, but still, it's one big pack.
Posted on: 6/26/2009 1:42 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8883091

RE: Ready to maiden?...HELP
That isn't the radio necessarily. Try moving the throttle rod going into the servo from whatever hole it's at now to the closest one to the middle of the servo. If that doesn't do it, move the throttle rod going to the throttle on the carb farther out from the middle.
Posted on: 6/26/2009 1:53 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8881958

RE: Servos
Since I've heard you can get 2 or 3 flights from a 600mAh pack, I could probably go through a gallon of glow fuel before I would have to recharge my pack! I also have the same custom pack in my radio at 9.6v as well.
Posted on: 6/26/2009 1:37 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8881938

RE: Servos
[quote]ORIGINAL: goirish Looks like what you have posted that the 3003 is faster but also has more torque. So when you asked, do I want more speed or torque. With the 3003 you get the best of both worlds. [/quote] Oops, I'm kinda out of it today and for some reason I thought a bigger number was better. I should probably eat a better breakfast or something... Also: Should I go with a 4.8v battery pack or a 6.0v? I can do either one because I have to cut cells out of my custom pack either way. It's a 2650mAh (I know it's overkill) 7.2v pack right now (I had a Radioshack Pro-Pulse car and refused to pay $25 for some crappy Ni-Cad's), so I can either cut 1 or 2 cells out.
Posted on: 6/25/2009 6:08 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8880823

Servos
I have a set of 4 Futaba S3003's and a set of 4 Futaba S148's. I looked them up on the Futaba website, and the specs are quite different, so I'm not sure which ones to use. @4.8v: [b]S148:[/b] Speed: 0.28s/60 deg Torque: 33 oz-in Weight: 1.6 oz [b]S3003:[/b] Speed: 0.23s/60 deg Torque: 44 oz-in Weight: 1.3 oz Do I want the speed or the torque? I'm using them in a 60" wingspan trainer, so do I really need speed? The website also calls the 148's "S148 Precision" so does that mean they are really more precise?
Posted on: 6/25/2009 5:46 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8880781

RE: TT Pro 46 muffler bolt size
While I can't tell you if they are the same, I can tell you that you should go to a hardware store and test if M3 bolts will fit your muffler's threads. You don't need the right length for testing, and if they work, go ahead. But since all M3 bolts are the same (I think) you need not worry about the pitch.
Posted on: 6/25/2009 4:54 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8880637

RE: CA glue
I just use my X-Acto knife and very carefully whittle it off my fingers.
Posted on: 6/25/2009 4:32 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8880575

Heat gun temp
What temperature do hobby heat guns reach? I have seen that they are about 1000W, but I wanted to know if the heat gun I have is suitable.
Posted on: 6/25/2009 4:23 PM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8880559

RE: SuperStar 40 Covering issues
What about the hole in the side?
Posted on: 6/23/2009 3:44 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8873436

SuperStar 40 Covering issues
I bought my SuperStar 40 at a sawap meet for only $25 with a Thunder Tiger GP-42, and I have the thing about 30% finished. I just have to get some epoxy before I do much else, but that's not the point. The point is the wingtips are warped, the top of the wings has bubbles in the covering, and the rear quarter of the fuselage looks like a toddler punched through the covering. I have cut a portion of the wingtips off so the ailerons can move freely, and I don't suppose they affect much. What I'm wondering is how I repair the wing covering and the side covering? I was thinking just clear packisg tape, but I'd like to consult knowledgable people first. The bubbles are actually like porous, so I'll see how they shrink up. BTW: I didn't know where I should put this thread, so I put it in the Beginner section because I just started around here.
Posted on: 6/23/2009 3:43 AM by Author "DC12VOLT" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8873350