Banana 80 inch B-17 mods.
I bought an ARF foam "Blitz RC "80 inch B-17 from banana Hobby at the AMA conventio last January. Flys great Lots of power. The landing gear does need some TLC to make it hold up. Epoxy the plywood tail wheel mount to the foam fuse and maybe install a couple dowels going through the plywood mount into the foam. The main gears have a square piece of plywood attached to the foam wing and then the gear itself is mounted to several pieces of U shaped plywood which is then screwed to the square piece attached to the foam wing. Problem is, at least on mine is the landing gear mechanism is thicker than the pieces of U shaped plywood. First landing the Right hand gearb popped off. No damage ot just came off. The landing gear mechanism touches the square piece of plywood but the U shaped pieces do not and the screws barely screw into the plywood square...Too short.. Simple solution. I added one more U shaped piece of 1/8 inch plywood to the stack and EPOXIED alll the plywood into the wing LG cavity. The re-screwed the landing gears back on. NOO problem since. Great flying plane but need just half throttle to cruise. First take off was at fiull throttle and the plane leaped off the runway and climbed out at a 45 degree angle. Landings are smooth with the throttles off from about 5 feet alt to touchdown.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 4:09 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218740

RE: Nitroplanes 90
Hi, Panhandler. Both of mine are (were) electric. I am using Electrify 50/55/500 motors 70 amp speed controls and 6s 4000mah lipos- I have a speed control and an ESC iand 6s lipo batteries n each nacelle right behind the electric motors. I am using 13x10 APC 2 blade electric props. I flew it with regular gas props but did not fly with the authority the electric props gives it. As far as the "were" goes I built the first one 4 years ago and flew it for two years. I tried getting three flights out of the batteries without recharging and unfortunately had to make a goaround on landing and ran out of motor power. landed in some sagebrush and tore up all fuselages. Then I discovered that General Models was issuing the same plane a year ago, bought one and installed the motors etc fom the first plane. Flys well but not as well as the first one. The wing alignments were not true so took some modifying. Anyway they are fun to fly and absolutely dependable on electric. I left the wing in one piece and just remove the wing and center fuselage for transport. I have a 1/4 x 3 inch flat piece of wood screwed behind the main gears connecting the two booms together when the wing is off. Works fine. Thought about retracts but too much trouble. VERRYY happy I went electric.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 3:46 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218719

RE: Fuel-Proofing Before Locating Engine Mount?
Go ahead and install the blind nuts before fuel proofing the back of the firewall. Then smear vaseline on the motor mount/firewall screws and run them through the firewall and through the blind nuts. If you wish, add a little more vaseline to the screws at the back of the firewall. Then add the epoxy fuel proof. The vaseline will keep the epoxy from filling the screw holes and will epoxy the blind nuts to the firewall, keeping them from falling out if you remove the motor mount. Then just unscrew the screws and proceed.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 1:38 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211834

RE: Sig Ryan STA
Hi, I have had a couple of the SIG ryans and they are a beautiful plane. One I had was the "aerfobatic" model detailed down to the stop watch holder bracket on the instrument panel. I used the Inline Top Flite muffler and adapter on a HB 61 and it worked great. Just remember it has a narrow gear track just like a cub, so watch that taxing. Flies great but sits high and may nose over easy on landing. Make sure your LG is stiff and secure.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 1:25 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211815

RE: Mode 1
PS. as far as Mode II like flying a "real" plane , most light planes are flown with the left hand controlling the elevator and the ailerons. The right hand runs the throttle, mixture, trims, etc. (Unless you are flying a "stick" plane like a PT-17 or J-3 Cub, etc.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 2:33 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202478

RE: Mode 1
I have flown Mode I since 1967 when I bought a second hand Logic-Trol 5 channel proportional unit. The advantage to mode one is you do not have any aileron/ elevator mix caused by both controls being on the same stick. Really advantageous when flying inverted as you can put you thumb UNDER the elevator stick and can push it only the right way giving down elevator on the stick but "up" for an inverted plane. It is also realatively easy for a mode I flyer to fly mode II. Remove your left hand from the left hand stick and you have to control the elevator/ailerons with you right hand.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 2:27 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202474

RE: What size of RC planes do you like?
Hi, I guess I have a little bit of everything. A 90 inch P-38 (electric), a 90 inch J-3 (Saito 120), an 80 inch electric B-17, Two P-51s (one 63 inch electric and one 80 inch- ST2500) and a 22inch F-35 ( rolls faster than you can count) In fact I have 9 or ten electrics and only 3 Glow powereed flying right now. I like the bigger ones (60 inch and up) best as the fly realistically and handle the wind well, easy to see too. Yes, I have a pick up with an 8 foot bed.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 2:13 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202460

RE: 72 mhz still ok?
I agree with still using 72... I am using two Hitecs on 72.. One is an Eclipse and one is a Focus. Both have the module where you can dial any channel number you want to use. I have several receivers , most on different channels. I fly mode one so my throttle is on the right. Been doing it since proportional radios came out in the 60's. I also have an Eclipse that is mode two, also with dial a channel, so my buddies on mode 2 can fly my planes. No troubles using 72. I was flying my Hangar 9 P-47 with a Saito 80 on channel 38 (Eclipse)last week and at about 400 feet altitude and after flying for a couple minutes I discovered I had forgotten to extend the antenna!!! No problem.. extended it and kept on flying..... I have a couple 2.4s also. a 5 channel ( on mode 2) thst came with a U-2 and an Airtronics RDS 8000 on mode 1. Again my mode 2 buddies can fly my 2.4 planes. The 8000 has 10 model memory and I have 8 receivers. I have only had one glitch with the 2.4 and yes I believe it had to do with antenna placement. The Airtronics receivers have two 10 inch antennas the are supposed to be set at right angles to each other. When I had the problem the antennas were near the engine and fuel tank and I think they blocked the signal to the antennas. I faced the antennas away from the engine area and there were no more problems.
Posted on: 7/20/2012 6:58 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11163062

RE: 1/2A Shoestring
To Batdog. Generally there are 5 "classes" of engine size in cubic inchews is as follows. 1/2 A.000 to .049 A is .050 to .199 Although I never heard of a .050 engine, .051 being the smallest class A I have seen. B is .20 to .299 C is .30 to .599 D is .60 and up
Posted on: 1/31/2011 5:18 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10303540

RE: ARF P-47-Brand?
Hey, Chad. Thank you very much!!! Don.
Posted on: 1/25/2011 9:46 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10288969

ARF P-47-Brand?
I picked up a P-47 D arf from a buddy and would like to know what brand it is. The WS is 66 inches, checkboard cowl, invasion stripes on fuse and wing, mechanical retracts and the saying on the side of the fuse is "no guts, no glory". The fuse letters are MXX on port side. Anybody got an idea??. Thanks
Posted on: 1/25/2011 9:40 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10288958

RE: Why is there left and right thrust engine angles on a twin?
THE ORIGINAL THEORY FOR THE OUTWARD FACING THRUST LINES WAS TO HELP PREVENT THE PLANE FROM TURNING INTO THE DEAD ENGINE IN AN ENGINE OUT SITUATION. NEVER TRIED IT SO DON'T KNOW IF IT WORKED OR NOT. I SEEM TO REMEMBER IT FROM AN ARTICLE IN A MODEL MAG 25 OR 30 YEARS AGO OR SO ON BUILDING A P-38.
Posted on: 12/31/2010 6:09 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10230749

RE: 2 stroke or 4 stroke, what is more reliable?
Hi Guys. I personally think a 4 stroke would be more dependable, although I have flown a Wing B-26 with magnum 46's and they worked great. I did not use an onboard glow but not a bad idea. I did use an on board glow on an inverted ST 3000 in a Dyna-Flite PT-19 and used the retract channel to turn the glow on and off. Used it like the electric fuel pump in the Pipers I flew. On for take off and landing and off the rest of the time Unless I felt the engine needed the glow plug lit for some reason. Then all I had to do was flip the retract switch and not have to fool with retarding the throttle to light the plug. As far as syncing the engines with each other FORGET IT. Trying to tune one engine to match the RPM of the other will make one of the engines too rich or too lean. Tune each engine independently so that engine is running smooth and happy. A couple hundred or so RPM difference does not matter or effect how the plane flies. PS ALL my twins, A 90 inch P-38 and a 92 inch B-26, are ELECTRIC. SO nice to sdvance the throttle and accelerate into a dependable all engines running flight including taxiing back to the pits!!! Not only that I can climb to altitude, shut engines off and glide around then advance throttle and fly back and land. You would be surprised how well a 16 pound twin will glide.
Posted on: 12/22/2010 3:07 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10212440

RE: Nitroplanes 90
Hi Guys, The camera is a FLY CAM 12. The field is our field in Carson City NV and the RR track is the rebuild of the Virginia and Truckee. Thinking of putting camera on the B-26 turret so I can swing it from side to side. Will let you know. Thanks for posting the video on here from you tube. I have no idea how you actually do that.
Posted on: 12/4/2010 2:40 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10176056

RE: Nitroplanes 90
Hi, guys. haven't posted for a while but the 90 inch P-38 is available again. Check the airplanes for sale adds under twins and multiengine. I busted up my "old" Nitro planes P-38 in July and gave it to a friend. Now I ordered another one and Fed Ex says it should be here tomorrow (12-1). I got the brown one again as it looks more like a warbird than the silver one, besides it is modeled after a full size 38 "Porky II". Again I will use electrics just like the previous one. I am also flyimng an electric 92 inch BH B-26. Flies just like a trainer. They both do but the 38 is more aerobatic. It works great to mount a minature movie camera on the horizontal of the 38 and "go for a ride". Anyone want to see it go to you tube and look under Tire Fire King. Don Morse P-38.
Posted on: 11/30/2010 7:41 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10168341

RE: Rhom Air retracts
Hi, Guys. I thought someone took over the Rhom air gears and made them under a different name. Could be wrong on that though. Actually any of the Robart air up-air down valves work with the Rhom retracts just as well as the Rhom valve, maybe better if you use the Robart variable rate valve.
Posted on: 11/22/2010 7:45 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10152906

Hirobo shuttle manual
I just purchased a Hirobo Shuttle from a friend. All ready to go but no manual. Is one available? I am new to copters except for a small wal-mart air hog model. So I basically "know nothing" as Schultz used to say and could use some instructions. Dgm
Posted on: 9/30/2010 7:38 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Hirobo Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10039026

Lincoln 61 glow???
Anyone out there ever heard of a LINCOLN model airplane engine??? We were at the semi-annual swap meet in Sacramento, CA today and lo and behold there was a lincoln 61 glow engine, made in Taiwan. It is not a one up as it came in a regular engine box. Both the box and engine were bright red.
Posted on: 9/18/2010 10:18 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10011683

RE: trike geared warbirds
HMMMMM/// Did the nose gear rotate 90 degrees when it retracted?? Note the strut and wheel cover in the photos.
Posted on: 9/3/2010 3:59 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9978625

RE: NEW 92
Addendum to my last post. DO NOT be concerned with counter rotating props on the electric versions. It doesn't effect flight one way or the other. I am using standard electric 13x10s on my B-26 and 90 inch NITRO P-38. Do not notice any torque effect. Of course I do not worry about engine out problems either!! Four flights on the B-26 and about two dozen on the P-38. The 38 IS more aerobatic then the 26. We put a movie camera on the horizontal tail of the 38 last fall and you can go to "tire fire" on you tube and take a ride on the 38 under Don Morse P-38.
Posted on: 6/10/2010 1:45 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9794258

RE: NEW 92
I Bought my 92 inch A/B-26 at the AMA convention in '09. Put it together in March this year, 2010, and put two flights in at our HSRCC Club roll out party in April and two more at the IMAA West Coast event at Castle AFB in May. lt Flies like a trainer. Nice thing about bombers they take off, do circles, and land. That's it. This one does so very nicely. I tried a roll and you could have had a cup of coffee before it completed the roll!!! I electrified mine using two 4130-6 brushless outrunners on 13x10 props with 100 amp esc's and a 3s2p 4000 mah lipo pack on each engine. Is that the right terminology?? Any way I am using two 3 cell 4000 mah lipos wired in series on each engine, the batteries in the engine nacelles. I cut hatches in the cowls like the instructions said and all the cowl structural integrity disappeared, wobbled all over the place. So i glued the cowls back togethet and now i just take the cowls off to put in the batteries. Only takes a minute. I did not install retracts, not sure it is worth the effort. Word of caution!!! The stab plywood joiner is not made of the best wood. Suggest you trace it out on a GOOD piece of plywood and use the good plywood for the joiner. My original piece broke very easily and I had to cut a hatch in the bottom rear of the fuselage to add braces to the joiner.
Posted on: 6/10/2010 1:37 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9794240

RE: NitroPlanes 55 inch T-28 Trojan ARF EP
Hi, guys, bought one at the AMA convention in Ontario and put a 4120/6 (advertised as equivelant to a 46 2 stroke or 65 4 stroke) motor in it as that is top end suggested. running 12-8 3 blade with 6 cell 4000 mil lipo. 70 amp dymond esc with separate radio battery. they say 2400 grams, about 5 1/4 pounds but mine came out just short of 6 1/2 pounds. 30 oz wing loading. The battery weighs 18 ounces so even leaving the battery out you are still at their advertised max weight. But at 30 oz per square foot should be ok. Ready to go so will let you know. Really beautiful plane though, all the lettering, panel lines etc. PS, the box says it is made by Flying Dream models.
Posted on: 1/30/2010 2:05 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9461542

RE: Nitro Planes 90
Your flight pictures are great. I built a 90" Nitro models P-38 and electrified it. Got a couple dozen flights on it. A buddy of mine has a small video camera that we mounted on the horizontal stab and made in flight movies looking straight ahead. You can see both engines, fuselage booms and center fuselage with cockpit and pilot and the wing between the booms. Movie lasts about 5 minutes from take off to landing with two rolls and a loop and 4 or 5 laps around the pattern. You get a good view of our field in Carson City and the V&T railroad track they are rebuilding. To view this go to- www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj0q2AWwalc At least that's the site listed on the video. I solved the "two fuselages held together by only the horizontal stab" problem by screwing (machine bolts with blind nuts in the two fuselages) a board to the bottom of the two outboard fuselages directly behind the main landing gear. Four bolts for each fuselage for lateral stability. After I bolt the wing to the two fuselages I remove the board and am ready for flight. When done flying I bolt the board back on and then remove the wing. This board holds the fuselages securily and has a wire loop on it for hanging the whole assembly, minus the wing and center fuselage, from the wall in my work shop. I am using 50/55/500 outrunner motors with a 6 cell lipo in each fuselage. I have tried standard 13/8 Master Airscrew props and APC electric 14/10 props. Both work well. There is plenty of power and with the power off the plane glides great. The nice thing is being able to shut the motors off as the plane touchs down and after roll out just start them electrics back up and taxi back to the pits!! If you watch the video you will see what I mean. The video was made using the APC props.
Posted on: 12/14/2009 6:45 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9330832

RE: Redesign and reconstruction of the Oldest Taurus on Earth
Hi guys. An addendum to my previous post. This Taurus had an expanding nose wheel brake operated by down elevator. It was old, had old Airtronics servos in the wing.
Posted on: 7/6/2009 7:57 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8911618

RE: Redesign and reconstruction of the Oldest Taurus on Earth
I had several Taurus back in the late 60s and early 70s. One a Top Flite kit that I straightened the trailing edge on which resulted in more LE sweep aand supposedly made it more stable(?). It flew great at 5 1/2 pounds with a ST 60 and would glide like a sailplane. My most recent taurus I picked up 7 or 8 years ago at a swap meet in Sacramento, CA. It is painted exactly like Kazmirski's red, black and white ,possibly with Hobby Poxy, and has a LARKS decal on the top right wing and a Veco 50 for power. I do not know the origins of this particular plane. I flew it for 5 or 6 years. The last flight a couple years ago the fin/rudder broke off in mid flight, but I did not notice it until I landed and taxied back to the pits then noticed a balsa stub where the fin should be. I made a new fin/rudder and gave it to my friend. It was donated to the AMA museum at the AMA convention in Jan '09.
Posted on: 7/6/2009 7:52 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8911611

Help on "High Torque" Motor Identification
Hi. I picked up a "High Torque" brushless outrunner motor at a swap meet cheap and it has no info as to KV, voltage etc. All it says on the motor is High Torque with a web address of www.hightorque.de. Apparently it is German. There is a price tag on it from R/C Country in sacramento, for $249.00 but they had no info on it. The exterior dimensions are 51mm case dia., 50 mm case length and about 5mm shaft. it turns a 15x10 prop at 6900 on 6 lipos at about 25 amps.. Any help on info on this motor is appreciated. I have a sneeking suspicion it needs more volts. Thanks much Don
Posted on: 6/21/2009 3:12 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8869334

RE: NEW 92" ASM A-26 INVADER
hi guys, I have an A-26 in the box and am cuttently flying a nitro models 90 inch p-38 on electric. I am using two Electrifly 50/55/500 outrunners with 70 amp controllers and two 3 cell 4000 mah packs in series on each engine turning 13X8 props at about 9000 rpm. Accelerates rapidly and flies well at about 1/2 throttle. Drawing about 35-40 amps at full throttle. 15 pounds and flies like a trainer. BUt with three fuselages there is a lot of assembly and disassembly involved each time I take it to the field. I am going to use the same set up in the 26. I noticed a comment way back in 2008 that a flyer was using magnom 70s with 13X6 props and was unhappy with performance. Way too little prop. Should be using 13X8 or more props. I found with my Saito 80 on a Tiger 60 that a 13X8 prop increased performance tremendously even when compared to 13X7s See Yah..
Posted on: 5/12/2009 5:58 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8763448

RE: Black Horse P40C Tomahawk
I have a BH p-40 and am contemplating what engine that I do not have to cut a bunch of holes in the cowl. I just picked up a Saito 120 4s and it has the exhaust out the back of the head. Anyone tried a 120 4s on the p-40 yet? how did it work? Thanks
Posted on: 4/24/2009 8:08 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8712642

RE: Skyshark P-40 updated?
Hi guys, better late then never....Maybe. Whats the complaint?? I bought and fly a Nitro Planes 90 inch P-38 It flies and looks Great, BUT It is made of balsa not aluminum, it does not have working guns, no retracts, the engines are electric not miniature 12 cylinder Allisons, the wheels are not air inflated with scale markings and the pilot does not talk through the microphone ( there isn't any) etc. ,etc., etc. It's a model you're supposed to have fun with. I suppose the people who are complaining have all of the above features in their plane that I do not. IF NOT, put a sock in it. PS I also have a Skyshark P-40 that I willbuild someday.
Posted on: 3/9/2009 9:02 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8561062

RE: Nitroplanes 90" P-38 (1/7 scale) with 3 piece wing and more
Got a suggestion for a preventive fix on Nitro 90 inch P-38. I have seven flights on mine on electric. I bounced the landing on the fifth flight and broke the hardwood main lg blocks in the fuse, actually they split and the lg wire did not bend. I epoxied the blocks back together and epoxied a 1/8 or so piece of GOOD ply across the tops of the blocks. On the seventh flight I ran off the runway into some dirt and bent the gears but the blocks held up just fine. Bent the gears back straight and it is ready to go again. When I got my 38 the lg blocks and the hardwood piece to hold the vertical lg wire in the fuse were on the left side in both fuses. You need the blocks to be on the inside side of the fuse. When I did my epoxy repair I added a hardwood block on the side that was missing the block. You might want to make these mods while putting yours together. Mine flies great on electric. Both props (13x8) tuirn the normal way, no countra rotating. Mine takes off straight as an arrow with little rudder correction. I have not had ANY torque problems. By the way with electric it sure is nice to turn the motors off and coast to a stop then START EM UP again and taxi back to the pits!! I am using Electrifly 50/55/500 motors with 70 amp ESCs and 6 4000 mah lipos for each motor. Everything is mounted behind each motor. Turning 9000rpm and drawing about 30 amps each. I opened up an air outlet grill on the bottom of the fuselages in front of the main gear and opened up an air outlet underneaththe inside oil coolers on inside side of each fuse. Runs very cool and batteries are barely warm after 7 or 8 minute fliight. I am getting two flights per charge.
Posted on: 2/22/2009 7:43 PM by Author "DGM" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8506679