RE: Aurora 9 - Minima 6E will not bind
Update: Now that I have all the right software and manuals, I'm delighted with the Minima 6E receivers. I put them in both my Q500 racers and flew for a weekend at a contest in Kansas City Oct. 1-2. Multiple flights, harsh RF environment, vibration, long landing approaches, not a glitch or problem of any kind. Two thumbs up! Cheers, Duane
Posted on: 10/11/2011 1:07 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10760123

RE: Aurora 9 - Minima 6E will not bind
OK, finally, I got results. I had to carefully run through the entire sequence three times, including uninstalling the HPP-22 software twice and then downloading a fresh copy from the web site which was the only way I could figure out to get it to produce an active dialog box with the "upgrade" option that I could click on. The second time through, I got to the screen that identified the firmware version that was resident in the module, but I evidently wasn't holding my mouth just right because it went away without upgrading. Third time was the charm; I got to the same screen and was able to find a menu offering the fabled Version 3.01. A progress bar appeared, and when it was full, I got a message box that said, "Upgrade complete! / OK". And now it binds with the Minima receivers. I would note, however, that the Spectra module does not work the same as the Aurora 9 transmitter in the video referenced above. For a transmitter with the Spectra module, you need to press the Link button BEFORE turning on the transmitter. Otherwise the video is very helpful. I'm looking forward to flying with these Minima receivers. They are small and light, and those long dual antennas will be very easy to install.
Posted on: 9/7/2011 8:10 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10706537

RE: Aurora 9 - Minima 6E will not bind
turned out to be. DHG
Posted on: 9/7/2011 11:38 AM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10705870

RE: Aurora 9 - Minima 6E will not bind
[quote]ORIGINAL: JVB Upgraded Spectra to 3.01 and all is well. Thanks AT. [/quote] I'm having similar problems, hope the solution is as easy. It would be nice if there was something in the packaging or instructions on the Minimas that alerted people to this fact. I spent a couple of hours tearing my hair out, & also wasted about a half-hour of my local hobby shop proprietor's time yesterday out at the field trying to puzzle out the d*** thing. And he was the guy I bought it all from. I was about to box up everything and send it in for warranty service when a friend alerted me to this thread. So, what will I need to get this done? Just that HPP-22 cable and and the instructions off the Hitec site? Thx, Duane
Posted on: 8/14/2011 11:40 AM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10670224

RE: EF-1 at Nats
Um. EF-1 works fine on the AMA 424 course. There is no need to move the poles if you want to run EF-1 and 424 at the same meet. The Nats management chose the 375-foot course only to keep the times (and pace) comparable to the other events. It's nice to know that people who came to the Nats to fly CL Stunt, or who love electric all-out speed events, or haven't flown RC Pylon in 20 years are now full of suggestions for rule changes to "fix" EF-1 "before it dies". But please understand that those of us who have watched all these issues carefully considered, argued over and finally resolved during the past 2 years and who enjoyed some of the closest and best racing since 1973 only one week ago will probably not share your assessment. Duane Gall
Posted on: 7/15/2011 9:21 AM by Author "DHG" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10622452

RE: My Latest Q500 Design
[quote]ORIGINAL: vicman Duane, I had a problem with the glass breaking down over time ... [/quote] Vic, If you crash as often as I do, that's not a problem! 0.75 oz. or 1 oz. Kevlar would be great, in fact I have some, just hate to work with it because it's so beastly hard to cut. But if you were going to use it on anything, encapsulating it in a wing skin would be ideal since you'd never have to sand or trim it after that. Cheers, Duane
Posted on: 10/20/2010 11:41 AM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Q-500 Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10081048

RE: My Latest Q500 Design
[quote]ORIGINAL: BobHH My next goal is to figure out these skinned hinges. I’m doing something wrong and they are coming out too stiff. Maybe Vicman can show me his secret. [/quote] Bob, FWIW, I'm having good luck with two layers of 2-oz. cloth, cut on the bias with the fibers at 45 degrees in relation to the hinge line. Duane
Posted on: 10/19/2010 11:33 AM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Q-500 Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10078695

RE: My Latest Q500 Design
[quote]ORIGINAL: flyngfrog [W]hich is this mylar technique? [/quote] I'll jump in here since it's been a few days. I hope Bob doesn't mind having his thread hijacked for a minute. [;)] If I understand the question correctly, the "Mylar technique" you're interested in is a finishing method for wings and tails in which the base coat of paint is applied to a sheet of .014" Mylar, and then the Mylar is pressed against the balsa with epoxy resin and light fiberglass cloth in between. If the balsa skin is smooth, and if uniform pressure is applied to the Mylar sheet (as with a vacuum bag system), the finished wing or tail panel comes out looking as smooth as a porcelain dish. You can then apply your trim colors and a clearcoat if you want. Think of it as the poor man's billet mold. Tricks and traps I've discovered: 1. Klass Kote paint is the best paint. It's a 2-part epoxy that sprays easily, cures very hard, and can be painted over with urethane, enamel, or pretty much anything else. 2. Use PVA as a release agent on the Mylar. You can wax it first with Johnson's Wax, but don't rely on wax alone. The solvents in the Klass Kote will compromise the wax barrier. Spray the PVA on, let it dry, spray the paint on, let it dry, GENTLY sand off any dust particles or bugs with #400 sandpaper, then apply wet epoxy resin and 3/4 oz. glasscloth over that using a squeegee or an old credit card and slap it on the balsa wing panel before it starts to cure. 3. Prime the balsa with nitrate dope if you have some, and sand lightly using #320 sandpaper on a sponge block. This reduces the amount of epoxy resin that will soak into the grain of the wood. My wings always came out heavy until I started doing this. 4. Also prime the balsa with a very thin coat of wet resin just before applying the Mylar/paint/glasscloth to it. I know it sounds like a contradiction of step 3 above, but the last thing you want is little "voids" of unsaturated glasscloth between the balsa and the paint. Most of the excess resin will squeeze out around the edges when you press the parts together. Obviously a vacuum bag will give more squeeze, therefore press out more of the resin, but you should be able to get acceptable results by setting the wing panel in the foam "shucks" it came from and weighting it down with paving stones or a small car or whatever. Those are the basics. Someone could probably write a book on the topic, and maybe they have. But I hope this at least answers your question. Cheers, Duane
Posted on: 10/19/2010 11:29 AM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Q-500 Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10078670

RE: Nelson muffler cleaning
"Never use it for food again"? Oh, come on, Gordon, you know a steady diet of neurotoxins is what dulls the pain of racing & keeps us showing up time after time, fresh as a daisy! [:D]
Posted on: 10/12/2010 12:48 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Q-500 Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10064019

RE: Nelson muffler cleaning
Claude, Get an old crock pot from the second-hand store and fill it with automotive antifreeze full strength. Set it in a safe place where no children or pets can get near it, preferably in the garage because it will make a smell. Turn the crock pot to "high" and drop the muffler in. Wait 2 to 8 hours, then fish out the muffler with tongs. It will be HOT HOT HOT. Also clean clean clean, inside and out. [8D] Duane
Posted on: 10/5/2010 12:58 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Q-500 Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10049080

RE: Thunder Tiger Price gouging
Just FYI, the Supertigre GS .40 Ring is in the same range of price and performance as the TT. I have one that I've used in 424 locally and even though the air intake is bigger than the one on the TT Pro .40, I can't tach the difference between the two. Most importantly, on the racecourse there is no discernible difference in speed. Remember, AMA allows local rule variations as long as you tell people ahead of time. If your contest flyer says "TT Pro .40 or ST GS .40 Ring", you're fine and I predict that everybody will be happy. Duane
Posted on: 9/23/2010 1:43 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Q-500 Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10022241

RE: Sad News of an RC Advocate Legend
Fred was a prince among men, both a fierce competitor and a good sport at all times. Condolences to his family and to his extended family, which includes all of us.
Posted on: 9/2/2010 12:41 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9976191

RE: EP LR1A Pogo
[quote]ORIGINAL: DHG 4. I started with the Turnigy motor and got mad at it when I heard a loud buzzing at high throttle. Changed to the E-Flite motor and got mad at myself when the buzzing was still there. Turns out it was some sort of harmonic in the cowl, ... [/quote] No, it wasn't. It was the plastic spinner cone. I changed to an E-Flite aluminum spinner, & it runs smooth as butter
Posted on: 8/25/2010 1:17 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Electric Pylon Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9958978

RE: Quarter Midget
"Long live the lipo"? What happened to "Hey, Duane, we're goin' racing, grab your wallet!"? [:D]
Posted on: 8/23/2010 3:09 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9954495

RE: Electric Setup for QM15
[quote]ORIGINAL: Konrad Duane, Do you think the 3 cell 2200 has enough energy to fly the 2 minute heat I was known for! [/quote] Hey, 2 minutes wasn't bad back then! ;) I only flew that airplane a few times before EF-1 came along and I got distracted by that ... but I did run it 10-12 laps at a time, so the 2200 should be adequate. With a 4S there would be higher voltage, therefore higher current, so a bigger capacity would be required. D.
Posted on: 8/19/2010 1:14 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Electric Pylon Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9945155

RE: Electric Setup for QM15
Konrad, Hiya! Sorry I didn't see this right away. Yes, EF-1 is in beta testing now, and I can tell you it works great! Here's a link (edited so it doesn't get flagged, take out the random characters): ht_tp://ww_w.r*c*groups.c*om/forums/showthread.php?t=1178471 I just pulled molds for the front end for an EF-1 Loki, hoping to start on the main fuselage structure soon. The wings for these use the same templates as for Q40, just clip the span down to 52" max instead of 56". The wing area is 375 sq. in. What a tangled web we weave! :)
Posted on: 8/19/2010 1:08 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Electric Pylon Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9945141

RE: Quarter Midget
Konrad, you maniac! I have wing templates and a couple sets of plans plus one remaining fuselage, no mold. It's a beautiful model but the wing airfoil was definitely not state-of-the-art even then. It'd be great for sport, though. The nose moment on the QM15s is just about right for electric and the overall weight will be the same or less (40 oz. with a 300 sq. in. wing). The DUMP (or "Denver 'Stang", to use a slightly less pejorative nickname) is unique in that we made that distinctive P-51 leading edge "kicker" near the center section using a separate, differently tapered section of foam instead of doing what everybody else did, just adding another piece of balsa to the front and faking it. That means that there's one more step in the wing construction, but as a tradeoff, the main wing airfoil can be changed without molding a whole new fuselage. I can't say I'm eager to pull a new mold off this fuselage (I'm up to my eyeballs in an EF-1 Loki at the moment, in fact the mold parts are curing in my car as I write this) but I could certainly do an updated version of the wing using an SD 6060 or other modern foil for maximum racing performance. IMHO, although EF-1 is a better formula and has a head start, you could easily gin up a revival of QM15 using the E-Flite 2700 KV, 28mm inrunner (a popular drop-in upgrade for the Stryker motor) and a 3S, 2200 mAh pack. Or go to 4 cells, you're right, it would fit, and Katie bar the door!! Cheers, Duane
Posted on: 8/18/2010 5:59 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9943360

RE: QM pilot pictures
[quote]ORIGINAL: kane Don's airplane was a Napier, if memory servers me correctly. DK [/quote] Dan, Right you are! My mistake. One other footnote about that contest: Jim Katz's partner, Pete Rourk, made it into the Trophy Dash with one of those De Havillands that Katz built. Suddenly he had about an extra 20 mph, couldn't handle the speed, went wild & cut out. Afterwards some folks suggested maybe he'd slipped a Nelson .21 into it just to see what would happen, this being the last contest and all but Katz and Rourk denied it. They said he just changed propellers. Guess we'll never know now! ;)
Posted on: 8/3/2010 12:50 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9908166

RE: QM pilot pictures
Dan, I think that photo is from 1993, the last contest ever held for QM15 as far as I know. Grunk set a national record of 1:10.85 using the yellow-and-white Pole Cat he's holding there. I was racing him in that heat, posted my own personal best of 1:13 something ... I like to think I pushed him into the record, but you know Grunk, every heat is just another day at the office for him. ;) Don Martinson had all the contestants sign the wing of his yellow P-63 after it was over. I'll bet that airplane is worth something to somebody, if it's still around. Also he went 1:12.1 with it, not too bad for an old guy! Duane
Posted on: 8/2/2010 12:27 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9905498

RE: QM pilot pictures
We were younger then, but fortunately not more foolish ...
Posted on: 7/29/2010 5:48 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9897490

RE: Old Quarter Midget Course size
[quote]ORIGINAL: Ed Smith It took a while but look what I found. James Katz with his Tiger Moth. F3D team trials, Toledo, Ohio. late Eighties/early Ninetys??? ED S [/quote] Hi, Ed, long time no see. That was 1992. Katz was going like blazes with that thing, probably would've made the team except he got bad air or something and hit full rudder to correct, which killed his engine because to save weight he had the fuel shutoff hooked up to the rudder servo. The DNF ruined his chances. Too bad because he would've been very tough. That year Gary Hover fielded a very nice Loki, also with a long narrow wing. I had two Swee'Peas with long narrow wings, but my engineering wasn't up to snuff and the ailerons, being also very thin and going a bit faster at sea level than at a mile high where I did my test-flying, developed a serious case of flutter. There's always a banana peel out there! Duane Gall
Posted on: 7/24/2010 10:42 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9886279

RE: EP LR1A Pogo
I got mine dialed in over the weekend, love it. I'm using the E-Flite motor and an APC 9 x 6E cut down to 8" diameter. Assembly notes: 1. I replaced the metal wing hold-down bolts with nylon #10 x 24s threaded into the wood. 2. I added a hold-down screw (also a #10 nylon) at the rear of the canopy, just because I didn't trust the magnets. It's got a knurled top on it so I can tighten it by hand after changing out the battery, no hassle but a little extra security. 3. The landing gear bolts are long enough to poke dents in your ESC if the ESC isn't all the way ahead of the wing. Cutting the bolts improves ESC performance. [;)] 4. I started with the Turnigy motor and got mad at it when I heard a loud buzzing at high throttle. Changed to the E-Flite motor and got mad at myself when the buzzing was still there. Turns out it was some sort of harmonic in the cowl, allowing the fiberglass to beat against the wood structure underneath. I was able to dampen the vibration by wrapping one layer of vinyl tape around the firewall and first former, & now I've added 4 small screws (like the 4 in the wing saddle area) to secure the cowl to the perimeter of the firewall. 5. To adapt the Turnigy motor to the length of the cowl, make a standoff block from one layer of 3/8" ply and one layer of 1/4" ply. You'll need to go to Ace and buy some longer 3 mm bolts to reach the blind nuts. 6. The aileron linkage as installed gives more differential throw than I like. I carefully bent the torque wires backward so the aileron linkage attach points are closer to directly over the axis of rotation. Now the aileron response feels better to me. It wants lots of throw. 7. The instructions say glue isn't needed for where the aileron torque wires go into the wood. I found one of them had enough play in it to make me nervous, so I ran some medium CA in there and now it's fine. 8. Lateral balance makes a difference on this airplane, even on takeoff. Mine needed 3 quarters taped to the starboard wingtip. Now it tracks perfectly. All in all an amazing value & a terrific little ship. Kudos to Jerry Small and Scott McAfee for a great concept. Duane Gall
Posted on: 7/12/2010 1:47 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Electric Pylon Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9859926

RE: Electric Setup for QM15
Brad, Long time no see! Just spotted this. I made a successful conversion of one of my QM15 Stingers (it last flew in 1992, been gathering dust since then) using the setup taken straight out of my upgraded Stryker. The components are: MOTOR: E-Flite Six Series brushless, 28 mm diameter, 2700 KV rating BATTERY: Common Sense R/C 3S1P x 2200 mAh lipo ESC: Great Planes Electrifly SS-45 Silver Series PROP: APC 6 x 4E I had to slide the battery as far forward as possible, but with the long nose on that airplane (typical, since they all were designed around those light .15 glow engines) the CG came out OK. The all-up weight was exactly the same as before, 40.5 oz. With the prop turning at 24K, the speed and handling are just about like what I remember with the Nelson .15 except much quieter of course. If Jerry Small hadn't invented EF-1, I'd be lobbying to race this sort of thing locally. Cheers, Duane
Posted on: 7/12/2010 1:24 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Electric Pylon Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9859879

RE: SERVO MOUNTING
[quote]ORIGINAL: combatpigg I almost laughed when I saw the included double sided tape and tiny mounting screws that have about 1/8" of reach into the wood. [/quote] Yeah, that's for gliders. Things are different with a Nelson F.I.R.E. in the mix. [8|]
Posted on: 8/21/2007 11:11 AM by Author "DHG" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6267115

RE: SERVO MOUNTING
CP, Those servos look fine to me. I own a couple and was planning to use them on a Q40, although I haven't actually done it yet. My plan was to supply my own grommets and brass eyelets, and mount the servos like any other. Just because the mounting holes are elongated doesn't mean you can't put round grommets in them. In fact, if there's room, maybe you could put two in each hole for a total of 6 mounting screws. As long as the servos are riding only on the grommets, it shouldn't matter that there are 6 of them. The "puddle of silicone" method works to mount the 1/8" plywood pad that the servo will be attached to, and it will reduce vibration a bit even if you bolt the servo directly to the plywood without grommets. But I'd never glue in a servo directly using silicone -- not because it wouldn't work, but because the servo would be nearly impossible to remove. Duane Gall RCPRO
Posted on: 8/20/2007 3:49 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6263321

RE: YS 1.40 DZ in a .60 size P-51?
The biggest problem with turbines is that at 100% throttle, they go so fast the control surfaces flutter and fall off. So, instead of trying to compete with that kind of speed, I decided to just build sloppier. Now my stuff falls apart at full throttle, too! [:D] p.s. Just kidding ... don't try this at home! [:-]
Posted on: 8/10/2007 4:46 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Scale Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6221641

RE: Viper wheels
"There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply. The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey." —John Ruskin
Posted on: 8/10/2007 4:27 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Q-500 Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6221572

RE: Powertrain recommendation for Easy Glider
Aha! Thinking outside the gearbox -- I like it. Thanks!! [8D]
Posted on: 8/9/2007 5:46 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6217495

RE: The Old Adding a - "Quater to the Wing Tip Balance Trick"
Eddie, The following is reprinted without permission from Dub Jett's web site, www.jettengineering.com ... it's chapter 3 of the "Crap Trap" series in his Technical Library: "[b]Rules for trimming a racer:[/b] "1. Call the manufacturer and find out the best c.g. and throws and use them!!!!!!. If you don’t balance the airplane, then please skip to the next page. (maybe later I will do a crap trap on balancing) "2. Set the low rate throws at slightly less than recommended and the high rate at 20% more. That’s 20% more than the low rate! E.g., if the low rate is “40�, then the high rate should be “48�, not “60�. (1.2 times the low rate). Take the time to do this. It will save you a crash later. "3. Fly the first flight rich, very rich, so you can get the centers of the trims without crashing. Center the elevator and ailerons first, obviously. Then try to fly the course. "4. When you make your first few turns around the course take note of several things: How are the rates? Try the high rates (remember they are 20% higher) You can get two shots at the throws this way and use this info to set your final throws. Second, watch the airplane thru the turns. Is it yawing? Is the nose high or low? A few clicks of the rudder will take the yaw out. (do not watch the smoke trail, it will confuse you) "5. With all three trimmed, there is one important thing left, which is really the subject of the Crap Trap. What are the wings doing during the turn? Think of the fuse as an arrow. When you enter the turn at pylon 1 it is pointed directly away from, regardless of the bank of the wings, right? When it finishes the turn, it should be point directly back to you, regardless of the bank of the wings. If not, then the airplane is either rolling up, or down. If up, then add weight to the left wing. If down (seldom needed), then add to the right tip. Do not change the Rudder!!!!!!!! Do not change the rudder!!!!!! Do not change the rudder!!!!! Get the message? You have already trimmed the rudder for zero yaw, then why would you want to race a yawed aircraft? It doesn’t matter if you under roll, or over roll, the “arrow� will always return to you, if you have the wing weight right. If not, it will never return to you, and you will continue to fight it around the course. Sometimes you have to add a bunch of weight, like ¾ oz. It depends. Sometimes I add some aileron mixing, but that causes adverse yaw in the turns, so be careful. "This is essentially a balance problem. The engine is on the outside. When you pull g’s, you are multiplying your imbalance by 25-50 times. This causes the airplane to roll right or left during the high-g turn. A little weight on the tip goes a long way. Watch the spinner. It should be point right back to you every time!!! "In summary: Balance the airplane to specs. Trim the airplane, and set the rates. Add weight to the wing tip until the airplane does not roll out or into the turn. Don’t use rudder to control a balance problem. "Dub"
Posted on: 8/9/2007 4:59 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "Q-500 Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6217315

Powertrain recommendation for Easy Glider
Hello, gents. I just moved to a place that has lots of nice fields & slopes. After snooping around a little on this forum, I think I want an Easy Glider ... but instead of going with a brushless motor & lipos I'd like to power it with stuff I already have sitting around: a Graupner Speed 400, Zagi ESC, and 8-cell nicad. The two items I'll need that I don't already have are a gear drive and a folding prop to go on the nose. Any suggestions? I'm willing to pay a little more for a good-quality gear drive and prop, since these items contribute a lot to efficiency, and the rest of the package (other than the airframe) won't cost me anything. Or if it just flat won't get out of its own way with this setup, I'd like to know that, too. Thanks! Duane
Posted on: 8/8/2007 3:23 PM by Author "DHG" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6212693