RE: OS 120 FS Idle
[color=#000066]Allan, Long fuel-lines make it more difficult for the engine to draw fuel... It is not a matter of sucking the fuel to a greater height; just over a longer length. The only possibility I can think of that would make the mixture 'too rich to run', or that much of a difference; is if you are using large diameter fuel-line... The mid-size (3/32" i/d) is sufficient for this engine. Also, I powered my USL with an MVVS 26 cc (1.60" ) glow engine. Isn't this OS a bit small? [/color]
Posted on: 11/20/2009 12:53 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9267695

RE: OS 120 FS Idle
[color=#000066]Allan, While the suggestion from OS *may* solve the 'full tank' problem you are facing, it would also add a little over 3" to the length of the fuel-line, between the carburettor and the tank... Excessive length in that area affects reliability in a negative way, and also; as the fuel-tank empties in flight, the mixture your engine might face is too lean... The cost of solving an over-rich situation with the tank full, using the suggested method, may be an over-lean situation as the fuel level is reduced... You wrote nothing about what you tried to do on your own... Did you try closing the low-speed needle in the carburettor a bit, to see if it helps? Many in this hobby; especially those who are less experienced, regard the low-speed needle, as if it is 'set for life'...[8|] But this needle tailors the fuel-curve of the engine, from idle to ~80% throttle. It is in the middle of the carburettor barrel, accessed from the throttle-arm side. Please see the photo, to understand where this needle is located. It works normally (i.e. clock-wise to close) and you need a small flat screw-driver to manipulate it. I would define NOT bothering to adjust it, a crime...[:@] [/color]
Posted on: 11/20/2009 10:39 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9267431

RE: OS 46AX On A Header & Pipe
[color=#000066]Appearances could be deceiving... I know the specs do say the hole in the prop is drilled to 8 mm, but from measuring the dimensions in the photo, it seems to differ... If the hole is indeed 8 mm, the hub is HUGE at ~34 mm in diameter. For reference, I took a shot of a used Master Airscrew 11x6 Series-2 black prop, drilled to 7 mm, with my vernier caliper open to 34 mm around it. Its hub diameter is just 24 mm. See below. I know an APC has a larger diameter hub, but the Graupner G-Sonic does not seem to be any larger than it is; and the APC hub measures up to only 1" (25.4 mm), according to the Tower Hobbies photo. Can anyone verify that the actual diameter of the drilled-through hole, in the G-Sonic 11x6 is really 8 mm? Photo analysis does not make it appear so. [/color]
Posted on: 11/14/2009 12:21 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9253171

RE: MVVS 77 spits thick black oil
[color=#000066]J, This is an ABC engine, with a pretty tight fit. Tapered-bore engines do not respond well to being run rich, since it causes more drag... The top of the cylinder sleeve is slightly smaller in diameter than the piston; and it is an interference-fit, if run at a low temperatures. Differential thermal expansion; with the engine at working temperature, causes the hotter top of the sleeve to expand more than the bottom, thus 'freeing' the piston at top-stroke. Please read all about it in [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Tapered%2DBore_Engine_Break%2Din_%2D_Upgraded/m_1850473/tm.htm]this break-in thread[/link]. Thick, blackened oil does suggest higher temperatures, but it can also indicate low quality castor oil; not from the first pressing (good castor oil is first pressing degummed). What fuel are you using? Dark gray 'metallic' oil most often indicates aluminium parts rubbing against each other... The high-silicon aluminium piston rubbing against the cylinder's chromium plating, would not result in much of that. The is most often caused by a loose fit of the header to the exhaust stack (connect it tightly, without the gasket), or the header contacting the front of the tuned silencer (keep them ~1 mm apart, within the silicone coupler). The RPM you are seeing is definitely low; even for a relatively new engine. The #3253 tuned silencer, does not respond to tuning like a tuned-pipe, as it is a Helmholz resonator. Also, post a photo of the engine. I want to see if you have the newer carburettor. [/color]
Posted on: 11/3/2009 5:44 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9224450

RE: Problem problem problem
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: Kostas1 I used an APC 11x6 prop, 10% N Cool power fuel. [/quote] Kostas, Using all-synthetic 'Cruel Power' fuel, in a bronze-bushed ABN engine... It is just not like you! This engine should be run on fuel that has a lot of castor oil in it. Preferably even an all-castor lubricant package. Even though it is probably not the reason for your engine 'cutting out', I am surprised reading this from you! Check that the fuel-nozzle is situated about 0.5 mm shy of the center, of the carburettor's bore. It is adjustable in this engine and would have adverse effect if it is not. [/color]
Posted on: 10/31/2009 2:16 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9217832

RE: New design Saito 82
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner Personally I was hoping Saito would come up with something like what OS has done to eliminate the messy crankcase breather tube. My .82 runs flawlessly though. [/quote] Ernie, There is also an issue with the valve-train design and lubrication, illustrated some time ago, [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8417255/anchors_8417255/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#8417255]in this thread[/link]. I hope, also for Saito's sake, that they took care of this issue; which possibly affects their engines that have the small-diameter lifters (SAI5038), along with a stout cam profile. [/color]
Posted on: 10/29/2009 5:25 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9213032

RE: Plug temperature
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: NikolayTT Is it F so hot, or it is massive to retain the temperature, or both? - Please specify. [/quote] Nick, A "hot" glow-plug's element, does not necessarily glow any hotter than a 'cold' one's. What differentiates a hot plug from a cold one, is its heat retention. This could be achieved by using a heavier gauge platinum wire (which takes longer to cool off) for the glow-element, but it can also be achieved by better 'insulating' the element, against heat-loss. It is all in the time it takes the glow to cease - a hotter plug glows for a longer period. Regarding the OS F; I can not sure if its glow element has a heavier gauge than, say, an OS #8. But with its longer 'nose', the element does not lose its glow quite as quickly. [/color]
Posted on: 10/25/2009 4:40 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9200064

RE: Plug temperature
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: Broken Wings It 'behaves' colder.....? [:D] [/quote] BW, Yes. The OS F plug is hot. It is intended exclusively for four-stroke engines; to retain the glow over the exhaust period, so it is capable of igniting the mixture, during the engine's next revolution... Large engines need to use colder glow-plugs and smaller engines need hotter glow-plugs; yet the F plug behaves very nicely in large engines, like the ST 2000-2300 and many others. It does this, despite being hot and it is not necessary to richen the mixture, beyond the cold plug setting for the same engine... ...Hence; 'acting' colder in some engines... The Enya #3 is the only plug they specify for four-stroke engines; despite not having the 'protruding snout', à la OS F... Like the OS F, it also 'behaves' like a cold plug, under certain circumstances. [/color]
Posted on: 10/25/2009 1:31 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199918

RE: Plug temperature
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: Oldbob The question was; “Is there a hotter glow-plug than the Merlin?� I was looking for a yes or no answer and a brand name if the answer was yes. It appears that no one knows the answer. [/quote] Bob, And it seems it is either that there isn't one, or that if there is such a plug, it is so rare that no-one knows about its existence... The hottest glow-plug made in large numbers is the OS A3/#6... A close second is the Enya #3, which has a desirable trait... It 'behaves' colder, when installed in mid-size engines. The Novarrossi C-5S is also close... I believe the [link=http://shop.vendio.com/RossiEnginesUSA/item/2019666765/index.html]Rossi R1[/link] may even be hotter than the Merlin, which I have never seen. Most people have probably not heard of hotter glow-plugs, simply because no-one ever asked, or needed his/her plug to be any hotter... ...Until you came along, that is.[>:] [/color]
Posted on: 10/24/2009 2:03 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9198616

RE: Plug temperature
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: downunder To borrow a phrase often used in another forum.....Irony meter pegged! [/quote] Brian, If someone is wrong, I believe it must be stated in clear, unequivocal terms (I never use harsh language and profanity). Trying to 'soften the blow' just won't have the right effect... I 'tailor' my reply in such matters, in a way that should, at least in theory, make this wrong person "sit the next one out"... ...And I won't quote from Clint Eastwood's words; regarding what an opinion is like... People can take different positions on matters and it is their choice... But regarding physical, chemical, mechanical and biological FACTS; no one is entitled to have a different opinion of his own! It is those members who have 'opinions' that contradict fact; that I am especially 'fond of'... [:@] The two of us (you and I) have had conversation between us over the years and I believe we share facts, but sometimes don't fully agree on some things for which opinions can be considered legitimate. And then we have our heated discussions; some of which make this forum much more interesting and enlightening. [/color]
Posted on: 10/24/2009 11:11 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9197817

RE: Plug temperature
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: Oldbob I have found that by using the hottest glow plug I can find and running the engine rich produces the most top end power in the air without hurting the engine. So far I have found the Merlin Hot Plug to be the hottest, but I wonder, is there another that is hotter? [/quote] Bob, What [b]you[/b] wrote above is nonsense! Ask others, if you think I am wrong... I believe you will overwhelmed to find just how wrong you are! And regarding that 'nonsense' that you claim I contribute, Mr Right; I suppose you are one of those people, who believe anyone who disagrees with what they write, is automatically wrong... [/color]
Posted on: 10/24/2009 11:07 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9196835

RE: Plug temperature
[color=#000066]Bob, You are probably basing your last post on a misconception... Using to hot a plug FORCES you to run the engine richer; perhaps much richer than ideal, so as to prevent the onset of detonation. This will make the engine cooler than ideal, eventually causing wear to increase... When an engine is running with sufficient lubricant, adding even more lubricant will not protect the engine better. It will not make the engine live any longer either. Enough is enough and any more than enough, will just be a waste of fuel and a waste of lube. Again; nothing but a waste of costly resources, which you have the honor of wasting a larger part of your pay-check to pay for. What a great feeling? To carelessly waste stuff, like there's not tomorrow... What kind of an education will your kids get from that? For efficiency (and this also means longer flights), use the coldest glow-plug your engine will run reliably and consistently with. This in combination with the lowest percentage of nitro that will serve the same purpose, unless you are competing and every last RPM counts. [/color]
Posted on: 10/23/2009 4:22 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9196545

RE: OS-81a Engine question
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: w1nd6urfa The OS a-series... [/quote] Windsurfer, It is not the OS a-series; it is the α-series (alpha). You must use ASCII codes to write some characters, such as this one. A Greek language character alpha use this string: &# 945; starting from the ampersand (&); and ending with the semi-colon; [u]and with the space in the middle removed[/u]. Had I typed the actual string, true to the form, you would simply have seen a lower-case letter alpha (α )... All CLI editors change this character string into an α (lower-case alpha). [/color]
Posted on: 10/23/2009 1:57 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9196267

RE: OS-81a Engine question
[color=#000066]Although there was a lengthy discussion in these pages, suggesting ([link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SAI5038]Saito's small-diameter-followers[/link]) engines might have some kind of wear risk in that area; [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SAIE082A]the Saito .82[/link] is now priced at under $230. It is noticeably lighter than the OS .81α, yet the OS is definitely the more advanced of the two (and probably the one you can expect to live longer). It is possible an expected replacement in the Saito line, is what brought about this mark-down... [/color]
Posted on: 10/23/2009 3:22 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9195340

RE: Super Tigre prices appear to be heading up
[color=#000066]Super Tigre are pretty good engines... I think I should remind everyone, Tower included, that the .40 ringed engine sold for under $50 and the .45ABC only fetched under $60... I was serious about getting a couple. But then, about a year ago, Tower hiked the prices significantly... ...And now, they're doing it yet again...[>:] [/color]
Posted on: 10/21/2009 1:42 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9190044

RE: OS 55ax
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: georbeckha 10x7 APC - 14,800 RPM (tested in 2 separate runs). 10x6 APC - 15,600 RPM (tested in 2 separate runs). Muffler is off of a Tower Hobbies .46. [/quote] George, I will not mess with these numbers, simply because they seem reasonable and probably attainable. That 11x7 number was something even a 'super-duper' piped .61 from Rossi/Jett/OPS/Picco... is not capable of. The Jett .90L can only spin an APC 11x8 at 15K; and yours is just a 'plain Jane' OS.55... [/color]
Posted on: 10/19/2009 11:33 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9185151

RE: Cool Power 5 % glow fuel opinion
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: BradSD Where do you guys buy this extra castor oil at? I usually just buy my fuel and use it as is. Sorry for the dumb question... [/quote] Brad, Since you think it is so, who am I to contradict you? [:D] Try in these places: [link=http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/MainMenuFV4.html?E+Sig]Sig[/link]. [link=http://www.klotzlube.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BC-175_Pint&cat=8]Klotz[/link]. Just to name a couple... [/color]
Posted on: 10/18/2009 9:52 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9182427

RE: OS 55ax
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: georbeckha LOL, I just knew I'd get reactions on those numbers up there. [/quote] George, While this is a social forum, where people chime in to discuss their experience with glow engines; I think no one here wants to read deceitful posts, claiming unreasonable RPM numbers, which were posted "just to get reactions"... And right was Karl. the numbers you posted [b]are[/b] unreasonable. 'Cruel-Power' is the wrong fuel for this engine. Both Morgan and Hobby Services say you should use fuel with castor oil in it, which this fuel hasn't. 15,200 RPM for this engine with the Tower muffler, is possible with a 10x6; but not with an 11x7... There is only a handful of full-length piped .61 engines that are capable of such a feat. The other numbers are even more unreasonable (read: impossible lies)... That person in Colorado must be pulling your leg. And... The number quoted for an APC 10x11 is a hoax, since there isn't such a prop. Spinning a 10x10 at your quoted RPM would require 2.76 HP... Again, a tall tail... You would be lucky to have this engine spinning a 10x6 at this RPM... [b]EDIT:[/b] Typo; grammar. [/color]
Posted on: 10/18/2009 5:07 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9181334

RE: OS 55ax
[color=#000066]George, As to the fuel; "each to his own" is hardly an excuse to be using the wrong fuel... But since you do add castor; make sure it is 4 ounces per gallon, to make it safer for your engine. As to the props; in your post #158, you stated 15,200 RPM with the Tower muffler, on an 11x7 APC... Would you wish to 'revise' this unreasonable figure? As to the UltraThrust mufflers; I import and sell them in my country (Israel)... RPM up to 17K is within the realm of the Std. UltraThrust UT-2. The Racing version will not allow any .40-.55 engine, to spin an APC 10x6, or 10x7 any faster than the UT-2... It is intended to spin smaller props; at higher RPM. Smaller, meaning APC pylon racing props, or a sport 9x6 APC prop. Higher RPM meaning 17K-21K. ...But in that range you will encounter a problem of a different kind... The porting of the OS.55AX is too conservative and is not designed for this kind of RPM. Its ports are typical .40 size and their timing in degrees is 'sport oriented'... Exhaust timing is ~155°. This engine is not intended to 'sing' at such high RPM, so it will not be able to utilize the Racing UT's RPM potential. [/color]
Posted on: 10/18/2009 5:02 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9182094

RE: Cool Power 5 % glow fuel opinion
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: blw [quote]ORIGINAL: DarZeelon [color=#000066] These European lubes prevent wear to such an extent, that engine manufacturers; ([link=http://www.webra-austria.at/download/en/motor.pdf]Webra[/link], for instance, tell you [b]not to use them for break-in, since they will not allow the necessary mutual honing of parts; and that you must use castor oil instead.[/b
Posted on: 10/17/2009 12:47 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9180438

RE: OS 55ax
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: georbeckha First is at 5000' altitude... Now, at Sea level... [/quote] George, The altitude is irrelevant... as far as the RPM is concerned. Sure, the power output will change as a linear function of the altitude density, but not the RPM. This number will be retained, since power output and the effort required to spin the prop, are both linear functions of altitude density. If altitude density is halved, power will be halved. But the power absorbed by the prop will also be halved, so RPM will remain about the same. It is redundant to mention the altitude. The acceleration of the prop and engine, however, will be affected. In thinner air, the engine will not increase its rotational speed as fast as in thick air. [/color]
Posted on: 10/17/2009 11:53 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9180348

RE: 2-stroke port timing
[color=#000066]I hereby remind everyone that a single-cylinder engine cannot, in practice, be fully balanced. The counterweight, as it spins, can be made large enough, to create sufficient up-down forces to fully balance the reciprocating mass... thus fully canceling the engine's primary order imbalance, in the vertical plane... But if it is large enough to do that, the side-to-side forces that counterbalance will create, in the 90° (side-to-side) plane, will be equal in magnitude to the original imbalance... So, 'fully balancing' a single-cylinder engine, means what is actually a partial balance, that moves about half the vibrational forces to the other plane... The counterweight cancels out, in general, the wrist-pin, the con-rod and about half of the piston (and the ring - as applicable). This will achieve a partial up-down balance, together with a reduced side-to-side imbalance; that will be less objectionable than no counterbalance, or full counterbalance. Fully balancing a single-cylinder engine, would require in addition to the 'original weight' crankshaft counterbalance; of two counter-rotating balance shafts, concentric with the crankshaft and spinning in the opposite direction to it; one in front of the crank throw and one behind it; each with half the crankshaft's partial counterbalance mass... When the crankshaft's counterweight is pointed down, or up, the balance shafts' counterweights will also pointed down, or up respectively. This will fully cancel the engine's primary order imbalance. But when the crankshaft's counterweight is pointed to [u]one side[/u], both the balance shafts' counterweights will point to [u]the other side[/u], thus canceling out the side-to-side vibration forces. Unfortunately, building such an engine would be an elaborate task... The cost, the complexity and the weight will all be prohibitive. It is not worth building such an engine in mass production, but it could be interesting as a one-of project. Secondary order vibrational forces (like those of full-size in-line four cylinder engines), however, will remain at large even then... The only realistic way to reduce the vibration level in a 'normal' single-cylinder engine, is by reducing the reciprocating mass to the absolute minimum. Ceramics, maybe? [/color]
Posted on: 10/17/2009 8:33 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9180011

RE: ys53 info needed.....
[color=#000066]Frank, Please take a look at [link=http://web.archive.org/web/20020803180433/http://www.nwmas.co.uk/engine_test_ys53.htm]this archived engine review[/link]... With the exception of the 11x8's RPM (which I believe is a misprinted number - it should be very similar to a 12x6 in load and a 12x7 is spun much faster), this review illustrates what happens if you overload this engine... An APC 12x7 is spun at a whooping 12,940 RPM... Using a slightly higher load 13x6 prop, bogs it all the way down to 7,900 RPM! The torque curve presented by this engine must be *VERY* extreme! It seems to present a humongous 'torque void', just below ~12,500, but from there, all the way to ~15K, it is the power that's humongous... [/color]
Posted on: 10/17/2009 5:14 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9179869

RE: Cool Power 5 % glow fuel opinion
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: NM2K [quote]ORIGINAL: ProBroJoe ...it had clearly been run on The Green Stuff. Pulled the back-plate and found it dry as a bone and full of rust with green stains. [/quote] I don't think I would be too quick to libel a company and its product, just because you ''think'' someone used Cool Power in the engine that you bought from eBay. [/quote] Ed, That blue-green color is a dead giveaway...[/color]
Posted on: 10/17/2009 3:55 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9179832

RE: Cool Power 5 % glow fuel opinion
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: NM2K Now that's just plain horse feathers, Dar. I propose that there actually is no such thing as the European super synthetic oil at all. If it were real, it would be for sale here, where much more fuel is purchased and used. [/quote] Ed, I own no stock in Motul, in [link=http://www.modeltechnics.com/]Model Technics[/link], or in Sachs... We all have to face the fact that all over the world; even in North America, glow fuel is not a very significant segment, for which large oil manufacturers will go out on a limb... No one is taking any risks for us. Please see the [link=http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=54&submit2=View]tech sheet[/link] for original, 100% synthetic Klotz Techniplate. In particular, see the 'Film Strength' figure of '8'... Klots'z own [link=http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=2&submit2=View]BÄ“NOL[/link] scores a perfect 10 in this criterion. [link=http://www.aerosynth.de/pages/pdfs/ASynthEng.pdf]Aerosynth III[/link] does not have an on-line tech sheet; but it does contain an EPA (Extreme Pressure Additives) that enhances its wear protection. [link=http://www.modellismo-rc.it/files/Motul_Micro_Ing.pdf]Motul Micro[/link] has EPA too, as does [link=http://www.aerosynth.de/pages/pdfs/ASaveEngl.pdf]Fuchs Aerosave[/link]. These European lubes prevent wear to such an extent, that engine manufacturers; ([link=http://www.webra-austria.at/download/en/motor.pdf]Webra[/link], for instance, tell you [b]not to use them for break-in, since they will not allow the necessary mutual honing of parts; and that you must use castor oil instead.[/b] These lubes offer [b]more[/b] wear protections than castor oil; a statement is completely untrue of Techniplate. Interestingly, [link=http://www.morganfuel.com/2-cycle.html]Cool Power oil[/link] [b]does[/b] contain an EPA; their proprietary CP-07 friction modifier... But since its use is still not endorsed by Hobby Services, I suspect it is not good enough for ring-less engines. ...Not to mention corrosion protection, as witnessed in these pages, by those who need to replace their engine bearings much too often... I don't know enough about which oils are used in other US made fuels, but I suspect it is mostly Techniplate, as it is widely available, rather cheap and most fuel makers are too small to develop their own oil. [/color]
Posted on: 10/17/2009 2:50 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9179770

RE: Cool Power 5 % glow fuel opinion
[color=#000066]Carrell, They certainly do and apparently, for a good reason... The mass-produced synthetic oils in US made fuels, do not fit the "top quality synthetic lubricant" description. [/color]
Posted on: 10/16/2009 5:19 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9178634

RE: Cool Power 5 % glow fuel opinion
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: jaka What gives you the impression that OS ABN engines cannot be run on synthetic oil??? Of course they can!!! [/quote] Jan, Maybe [link=http://osengines.com/faq/product-faq.html#q2]the importer for OS to the USA[/link]? [/color]
Posted on: 10/16/2009 2:50 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9178341

RE: YS 110 FZ: replace bearings
[color=#000066]Non-Stop, Please pay more attention. The post you just quoted in your last post (#10), was my post #7 reply to Chris' post #6... It was Chris that first gave feedback to my post #5, to which you responded in post #9... As to your engine; the rear bearing, [b]by design[/b], is held in the crankcase much more firmly than it is held on the crankshaft. If in your engine, pushing the crankshaft firmly back, resulted in it coming out with the bearing on it, there is a problem with your engine. One, or more of the following is not as it should be. 1. The seat in the crankcase, in which the bearing is held, is out of tolerance (i/d machined too large). 2. The seat in the crankcase, in which the bearing is held, is cracked. 3. The bearing's outer race O/d is out of tolerance (too small). 4. The bearing's inner race i/d is out of tolerance (too small). 5. The crankshaft's journal O/d, on which the bearing should sit, is out of tolerance (too large). And/or 6. There is a burr, adhesive, or a piece of dirt that got between the bearing's inner race and the crankshaft journal, which is causing the fit to be too tight and not to be as it was designed. I am more than happy to share good ideas with people on the RCU forum and have been here a little longer than you have. But some ideas result from misguided comprehension, plain misguidance and misconceptions. And there are some such misunderstandings that had survived for decades. So long, in fact, that most regard them as facts... My favorite activity on this forum is uprooting these 'myths' and putting them to rest. Within my over 8K posts, I had my share of 'discussions' with members, who thought what they read and believed were facts; until I proved otherwise. An open mind is good, but one must take into account that if the mind is kept too open, for too long; someone will eventually shovel in some garbage... So, keep your vigil! [/color]
Posted on: 10/10/2009 3:43 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9161993

RE: YS 110 FZ: replace bearings
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: ChrisAttebery Dar, no need to make such a fuss over a simple problem. Apparently, you don't remember what it was like when you first started out. You know, back when the earth was still cooling. [:D] [/quote] Chris, As you can see in my photo, I have already began to transform back into an ape...[:D] Maybe it is because the Earth is heating up again, with its population nearing 7 billion... I believe that I am and always was less prone than others, to making errors; especially in mechanical assembly/disassembly issues. Yes, a bearing *might* come off the crankshaft with a bit of tapping, but from my own experience, this is not very likely. Reassembly and then 'correct sequence disassembly', is; as I learned from errors made by my customers, the easiest way. This method is a 'sure-fire' technique, which I only found to fail in very loose K&B 6.5 cc engines (Peter Chinn found the rear bearing actually spun in the engine, while it was running. - MAN early '70s). [/color]
Posted on: 10/10/2009 11:27 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9161556

RE: YS 110 FZ: replace bearings
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: nonstoprc ...However, I could not push the rear bearing off the crankshaft. It stuck good. What is the best way to slide the rear bearing out? [/quote] Non-Stop, How the heck did you manage to remove the crankshaft, with the rear bearing on it? Did you do the removal in the wrong sequence, i.e. heating the crankcase first and removing the crankshaft later??? The fit of the crankshaft it the rear bearing's inner race, should be a light, interference fit. The fit of the rear bearing' outer race in the crankcase should be a rather tight interference fit. Applying force to the front of the crankshaft toward the rear, with the assembly at room temperature, will cause the crankshaft out - ALONE. AFTER the crankshaft is out, the crankcase must be heated (oven, or flame), for the aluminium's higher expansion coefficient to loosen the crankcase's grip on the bearing, allowing it to fall out. If what you did was to heat the assembly PRIOR to removal of the crankshaft, this part will come out with the bearing on it... Separation of the two parts will be much harder... [size=3][b]Is that what you did?[/b][/size] Even though the rear bearing is unlikely to ever be reused, I suggest you reheat the crankcase and reassemble the crankshaft+bearing into it. afterward, place it in your freezer for 20 minutes and NOW push out the crankshaft. The bearing will not be too tight on the crankshaft, because both parts are steel, with similar expansion (and contraction) coefficients. The grip of the crankcase on the bearing, however, will become tighter, making sure it does not come out with the crankshaft... Not taking these steps and removing the bearing from the crankshaft as it is now, will necessitate chipping, hammering and possibly; the use of tools that you might not yet own... It will do no good for your crankshaft, or for your budget... [/color]
Posted on: 10/10/2009 10:53 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9161494