RE: Magnum/ASP 108
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: jstanton I know I have been looking at a dealer on the net that has them for $92.00 plus shipping. I just my pick up another even if I us it for parts[;)] [/quote] Here you go, Jim. [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8987__A108A_Two_Stroke_Glow_Engine_.html]ASP S108A engine[/link]. It is even less than $92+shipping.[/color]
Posted on: 9/5/2011 9:39 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10703504

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
[color=#000066]Dick and Mike, Thank you for your support. The Israeli forum that I participate in, also has some people who very loudly demonstrate their disagreement, with some of the things I write. I sometimes need to work very hard to prove them wrong. So, it is not specific to this forum... Some of those that openly disagree with me, are very knowledgeable persons. I would like a chance to meet some day with Brian Hampton, for instance... I am quite sure it will not turn into a fist-fight. I quite often, also in the local forum, quote material that he wrote and I respect him. But I disagree with some things that he writes, when I know I am right. [/color]
Posted on: 9/4/2011 11:49 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10701098

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: WMB Hey Dar, I may have all this wrong. The piston is pushed down by a force. The force is from the expanding air trapped above the piston. The air is expanding due to the massive temperature increase. The temp increase is caused by the burning of the fuel. If this is true, then the heat is the needed product to make the piston go down. So, does the energy in fuel itself do the work, expanding air due to heat, a combination of the two, something else? Oil content? The car guys use less and there engines are run harder. Are we airplane guys ungrounded in engine tuning or is there another reason for more oil in our plane fuel? Never did understand this. Thanks, MikeB [/quote] That is correct, Mike. It is through heat (and expansion) that an engine makes its power, but it is only between 20% and 26% of that heat; that is actually used by the engine to spin the prop. The remainder of that heat is just excess that the engine needs to get rid of... Getting rid of the heat is apparently not the reason plane engines need more oil. After all, gas guys easily get away with just 2-3%, or even less. Brian, Because I also sometimes err in this, i.e. not reading entire posts, I can comment to others that do....[8|] Aren't most iron-steel engines built with a parallel sleeve? I supposed this before hand. [/color]
Posted on: 9/4/2011 10:16 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10700980

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
[color=#000066]378, I will not argue with you for the sake of arguing, regarding the oil's contribution to carrying away heat in glow engines. Oil flows through a .46-.61 glow engine, at a rate of about 5 cc per minute. It is expelled from the engine (running at 12,000 RPM), about 5 milliseconds after it enters it. The droplets undergo induction through the carburettor; flow through the crankshaft; sub-piston compression; flow through the bypasses; normal compression and expulsion through the exhaust. They are exposed to combustion and are neither supposed to burn, nor to evaporate. Oil can really do very little, as far as carrying away heat; even though the popular myth does say such things. Oil does much more to reduce heat, by reducing friction between the engine's parts. Brian Hampton (downunder), who is also a participant in this discussion; and who compiled [link=http://www.flyhi.org.il/fuel.htm]this table[/link] about fuel components, may be able to add more to this specific issue. [quote]ORIGINAL: downunder As for my nemisis, I thought I'd finally met it in one particular engine. You talk about tight racing engines, well this one was beyond tight because it was almost impossible to turn through the pinch. Let's just say it was so scarey tight I was very worried about the rod. Once started (finally!) it burbled away quite happily at as rich a mixture as it would handle without cutting out. When the fuel ran out it went to near max revs then stopped instantly with the piston jammed up in the pinch. After close on an hour of running it finally stopped jamming in the pinch. Now this was an engine with a cast iron piston and steel liner so you may (rightly) ask the relevance of this. Well there's no differential expansion so that enormous pinch should have always been there...except it wasn't once it started. That basically was a proof of hydrodynamic pressure even with a much more rigid iron piston. It also made a fallacy of the myth :) that a rod can get torn to pieces with the piston of a cold ABC type engine having to be pulled back out of the pinch area. [/quote] Brian, It is this engine you wrote about that has a parallel sleeve and can benefit from the oil's hydrodynamic pressure for its protection. [/color] EDIT: Spelling.
Posted on: 9/4/2011 2:38 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10700513

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
[color=#000066][quote]ORIGINAL: Mr Cox I actually agree that on an ABC engine there is no need to run in a four stroke mode, a rich two stroke on a small prop is fine. But there are so many odd statements in this thread that it is unbelievable... Take this one just as an example: [quote]ORIGINAL: DarZeelon It is this engine you wrote about that has a parallel sleeve and can benefit from the oil
Posted on: 9/4/2011 2:32 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10700558

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
[color=#000066]Of-course, 378. But it still is the major contributor to cooling... Oil does very little. In any internal combustion engine, the fuel's main job is to burn and to provide power. The engine's job is to make power from the fuel. Heat is just a useless product that is necessary to remove, both by airflow on the cylinder fins and by the latent heat of evaporation of the fuel's components. The oil? Its job is lubrication. [/color]
Posted on: 9/3/2011 2:53 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10699941

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
[color=#000066] Brian, Hydrodynamic pressure is what works between two rapidly spinning/moving parts; such as a sliding main bearing of an engine. The piston, when reaching TDC is dwelling and for a moment comes to a dead-stop in the sleeve's pinch. Hydro-static pressure does not have the same effect and it hardly can be a part of an explanation. The engine that you discuss in your letter does not have a tapered-bore, i.e. the sleeve is parallel. The piston is more effectively cooled from below by the fresh mixture, than is the sleeve. This creates some play which allows the engine to continue running. In this engine, hydrodynamic pressure does apply. The engines that had their rods 'let-go' after accumulating fatigue-stress from a bubbering rich break-in, were K&B pylon racing engines, written about by the late George Aldrich, if I recall correctly. Maybe that con-rod was particularly frail... I never had a con-rod go south in any engine I ran either... But I do it my way. [/color]
Posted on: 9/3/2011 12:49 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10699197

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
[color=#000066]378, Regarding oil carrying away heat in glow engines... Well, some heat is carried away by the oil, but it is much, much less than you think. I don't have the exact numbers for oils, which aren't supposed to evaporate, but it is methanol that does most of the engine's cooling, through its own evaporation. Methanol has a very high latent heat of evaporation. [/color]
Posted on: 9/3/2011 11:01 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10699692

RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
[color=#000066]I am the OP (original poster)... Your method is hardly the same as the one I prescribe for airplane engines. It does share the "getting the engine to proper working temperature" ASAP. But we do it in different ways. I subscribe adding oil (castor) to a total of 25% to cater for the increased lubrication needs, while you run a very rich mixture, which in a plane engine will cause the engine to run too cool for its own good. This thread addresses mostly airplane engines. Owners of engines intended not to spin a prop, might not find it very useful. But even those car guys in another thread stated the blubbering rich method results in their engines lasting 3-4 gallons, while the two-stroke rich method got their engines past 11-12 gallons.[/color]
Posted on: 9/3/2011 9:19 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10699598

RE: asp piston on OS 46FX ???!!!!!
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: tony0707 Hi, Uusually, the cost of a piston and liner replacement will signal the time to purchase a new complete engine have to consider the wear on the other engine partsthat has taken place could be throwing good money away-you could be applying to the new one long run best regards Tony [/quote] Tony, This is very much a blanket statement... Different parts of one engine wear-out at different rates and some can be cheaply replaced several times, before the engine atains paper-weight status. Pricing is another matter... OS don't want you to repair your engine and prefer that you buy a new one from them... So they state an outrageous price on their P+L set... But if you can get an ASP set for under $16 from China, you get a new, even longer lease on the life of your $130 OS engine. Sure beats buying a new engine, doesn't it?[/color]
Posted on: 9/2/2011 2:20 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10698703

RE: asp piston on OS 46FX ???!!!!!
[color=#000066]Elad, The ASP S46A piston and liner set, fits into the OS.46FX with no modification. It is not the same part, as the ASP set includes a chromium plated, true ABC sleeve; while the *original*, very expensive OS set is ABN/ABL, with less durable nickel coating. Both pistons are high-silicon aluminium. The ASP is a clone of the OS, so most of the parts are interchangeable between the two engines. I wrote about it in [link=http://www.efly.co.il/forums/showthread.php?40890-%F9%F8%E5%E5%EC-%E5%E1%E5%EB%F0%E4-%EC%EE%F0%E5%F2-OS-46-FX]the eFly forum[/link]. It has also been discussed in this forum.[/color] EDIT: Spelling.
Posted on: 9/1/2011 11:32 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10696964

RE: whats the different between tune muffler and tune pipe?
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: Recycled Flyer ...[b]A Diesel, when properly warmed and in tune will over compress with any form of returning or 'positive push'[/b] wave as that wave will force gases back into the open exhaust port at the last moment. This has been confirmed by fliers who have diesel speed models - no pipe other than a straight length that gained perhaps 200 rpm has any benefit on a diesel. Yet here we are with MVVS 2.5cc diesels running with a known power boosting pipe, in the correct rev range and yet suffering nothing from over compression. This seems to tell me that if the MVVS pipe has a 'positive' wave then its effect is not felt back at the exhaust port. At the moment, my head hurts thinking about this! [/quote] Chris, It is exactly for this reason that when selling an MVVS Diesel, I always emphasized buying a standard silencer with it was the proper thing to do. It could be that the compression can be adjusted at top-RPM, with the tuned-silencer installed... ...But this modest compresion setting still allows the engine to idle and to transition from low RPM, without bogging... Go figure...[8|] It could be that 'the step' with the MVVS tuned silencers, is gradual and subtle; not sudden, as it is with a tuned-pipe (especially a dual-cone type)... These exhausts; although MVVS do specify an effective RPM range for them, seem to positively affect the engine's operation wherever you take it. [/color] EDIT: Addition of info.
Posted on: 8/29/2011 9:55 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10692852

RE: whats the different between tune muffler and tune pipe?
[color=#000066]Pé, Maybe you did not, but please read Chris' post and your reply once again, to understand why I reacted with my statement. It was not completely clear what you were responding to. I agree that boost should be measured, comparing the power to the open exhaust condition. But since hardly anyone runs a .15 or larger engine with an open exhaust, comparing power with a tuned system to that of a normal non-tuned system, is quite legitimate. [/color]
Posted on: 8/29/2011 8:50 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691816

RE: whats the different between tune muffler and tune pipe?
[color=#000066]Pé, I cannot agree with you about the last statement. The power addition from installing the MVVS tuned silencers on engines, is much too great to be only a result of suction (more complete exhaust scavenging and quicker induction). The RPM difference on the same prop size, like an 11.5x6 Bolly on the .49/8.0 engine, is ~2,000 RPM, to 13,600; compared to the #3245 muffler. This is an addition of no less than 61% in HP compared to the base number, which cannot be accredited solely to better scavenging. There is definitely a positive pressure boost; supercharging, as compression begins and the exhaust port closes. A very good muffled tuned-pipe installation, can only bring a gain of 300-400 RPM over that number. [/color]
Posted on: 8/29/2011 7:59 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691740

RE: Fox Eagle III .60 Diesel Conversion
[color=#000066]David, I thought that's what it was, but its appearance is rather ...er... chewed-up... I have a high-school friend living with her kids in Long Island NY... She had her basement flooded, but no other damage. I guess Irene lost some of its force, before getting there. [/color]
Posted on: 8/29/2011 7:38 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691722

RE: Fox Eagle III .60 Diesel Conversion
[color=#000066]Earl, I don't think I understand the next to last photo in your first post... The top of the block seems to be completely chewed-up! It somehow does not seem like aluminium foil... In the bottom photo, everything seems OK, though. [/color]
Posted on: 8/29/2011 5:16 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691579

RE: whats the different between tune muffler and tune pipe?
[color=#000066]Scooter, Roary, This is a forum that discusses glow engines used in models... Although tuned exhausts work basically the same for motorcycle engines, let's keep the discussion on-subject and only refer to other fields, when examples are needed that leave us no choice. Chris, MVVS' head engineer (for fuel engines) is indeed Josef Å vajda. [/color]
Posted on: 8/26/2011 2:05 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10687792

RE: Magnum/ASP 108
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot There is no such thing as degummed castor, it was just a marketing statment oft repeated.  Drug store castor is first pressed castor that has been tested for traces of ricin poisen.  It works just fine as it is the same as Bakers AA. [/quote] True, Hugh. What is commonly called 'degummed' castor oil, is simply oil from the first pressing of the beans. It is mostly ricinoleic acid. The first pressing oil does contain only a very small percentage of the longer molecules that constitute 'gum', but no process is done (or needs to be done), to make this oil 'degummed'. So, because 'to degum' is a verb that suggests an action is done on the oil, to make it 'degummed'; the term is misleading. Castor oil used by leading glow fuel manufacturers is the 'first press' type, even though later pressing oils tend to cost less. The problems that could arise from using castor oil of lesser quality, are sure to make any such manufacturer to 'go south' in a jiffy. So, maybe this higher quality castor oil should instead be called 'gum free', or simply clean castor (I think Morgan use it already). Castor oil from a drug store could be first press AA; but there is also a remote possibility that it might contain sugar, to improve its taste... I don't thing your engine will like that sweet additive, though. [/color]
Posted on: 8/25/2011 12:17 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10686929

RE: Magnum/ASP 108
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: NM2K I'm not trying to be a wise guy, Dar, but the first glaring difference is the exhaust port bolt pattern. The Sanye engine's use two retaining bolts, while the OS 1.08 uses three muffler retaining bolts. [/quote] Perhaps you are right, Ed. My bad... I was not aware the OS1.08FSR had that humongous, three-bolt exhaust... [image]http://www2.gpmd.com/image/o/osmg2876.jpg[/image] But then, the ASP does use the larger diameter, 20 mm crankshaft with huge bearings, so it is a 'hybrid clone' of the .91FSR and the 1.08FSR. Maybe Altered can take a shot of the ASP 1.08's port? [/color]
Posted on: 8/24/2011 9:34 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10686030

RE: MVVS .45 or .49??
[color=#000066]Hi, Jim. Those with the 'blank' circle were mostly .45 engines. The .49 engine usually had a 'figure 8' machined there. Most .49 engines had a green anodized head (.45 engines had a red anodized head), but that was before most engines got the blue anodized head (and prop-driver). The only way to be sure is to measure the stroke. The .45 had a 19.6 mm stroke, while the larger engine had a 21 mm stroke. You can measure the stroke through the glow-plug hole; no need do disassemble. [/color]
Posted on: 8/24/2011 9:22 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "MVVS Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10686017

RE: Magnum/ASP 108
[color=#000066]Ed Moorman and Hugh, Since the ASP is a clone of the OS; and since you discuss the ASP being at its best between 8K and 9K RPM, is the OS1.08FSR also at its best in this range??? I seem to remember it being good for much higher RPM and it's rated by its manufacturer at no less than 16K... Please explain. [/color]
Posted on: 8/24/2011 9:01 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10685034

RE: Magnum/ASP 108
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: goirish I see that the lower case is different. Has a brace going from the mounting lugs to the crankcase. However, very close. [/quote] Had it been an exact copy, I guess OS would have a legal case... So, Sanye are careful... But if you count the cooling fins, you'll see it is the same number. [/color]
Posted on: 8/24/2011 6:48 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10684875

RE: Magnum/ASP 108
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: NM2K The Sanye 1.08 was designed to top out in the high 8k rpm range. If the engine is running at over 9k rpm, it is under propped. Stick to 5% nitro or add a head shim to stop overheating in the summer. These are great engines and no, they are not OS clones. [/quote] Ed, Are sure about the ASP not being cloned after the OS? Take a look at the photos below. They have the same bore, stroke, bearings and appearance (except the carburettor and prop-driver). They are very much clones. [image]http://www.modelpascher.com/catalog/images/ASP%20108.jpg[/image] [/color]
Posted on: 8/24/2011 5:46 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10684807

RE: Magnum/ASP 108
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: jstanton I still have this engine running a little on the rich side and I will go out and get a APC 15x8 prop tomorrow and try it once again. Ed, I do thank you for your help with this engine and it does start very easy. What RPM readings should I see with the APC 15x8 prop? Will it still be in the 9000 range?[8|] I will be using Omega 10% for the next couple of gallons because I already have it on hand. I will try the 5% if I can find it at my LHS. I think they only have 10% and higher nitro on hand. I don't know if they will order any 5% for just one gallon[:o] [/quote] Jim, It probably is more than just a prop selection matter. The ASP 1.08 is an OS1.08FSR clone and I believe it was designed to top-out at more than just 9K. This engine is not merely an enlarged, cloned .91FSR. The .91 had a 17 mm diameter crankshaft, while the 1.08 uses a much larger 20 mm diameter crankshaft (like their current 1.20-1.60 engines). It is a size larger than the .91 'big-block'. It has large passages that support higher RPM and a light 15x6 prop should not really an obstacle for it. Like a 14x8, it should be spun beyond 11K! Try loading it with a larger prop; I suggest a 16x8 of the same series (MA S-2/Scimitar). It should spin around 9K, drawing just under 2.00 HP. If it does not, look for possible butting of the ring ends... It could cause overheating and make the sleeve go south very rapidly. Do use only 5% nitro fuel! You could make your 10% nitro fuel into 5%, by mixing each gallon with 103 ounces of pure methanol and 25 ounces of castor oil (BéNOL, Bakers/SIG AA, CleanCastor - all OK). If you obtain castor oil in the drug-store, it will likely not be degummed and will make your engine rather filthy rather fast. [/color]
Posted on: 8/24/2011 1:34 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10684665

RE: Too much prop stopping ENYA 60X ?
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: downunder [quote]ORIGINAL: DarZeelon Altered1, you wrote nothing about the design of your engine... Is it ringed, or AAC/ABC? [/quote] He answered my question earlier by saying it's non-ringed and a photo showed the non-ringed piston. That means it's AAC (and for your info Dar, the AAC 60X has no pinch out of the box). Also it's about 35 years old
Posted on: 8/23/2011 10:26 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10684561

RE: Magnum/ASP 108
[color=#000066]Jim, I am sorry to disappoint you, but according to the [link=http://www.mvvs.nl/prop-power-calculator.xls]PropPower calculator[/link], the output your new engine is showing is barely 1.156 HP at this RPM... Just to give you a comparison point, and OS.46AX, spinning an APC 10x6 at 14,300 RPM, on 15% nitro (that is what various tests clocked it at), is putting out an actual 1.144 HP. Check to find what is wrong; as this much larger engine should be showing much, much more power. It really does not matter if the power is 'sufficient' for your needs. It's still very low for this engine. [/color]
Posted on: 8/23/2011 12:20 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10683684

RE: Too much prop stopping ENYA 60X ?
[color=#000066]Altered1 and Jan, The air-bleed carburettor this engine is equipped with is very much unlike 'normal' ones of this type... This carburettor features fuel metering - the fuel orifice narrows as the throttle is closed, in a method similar to that of Perry carburettors. The air-bleed adjustment is just a trim, for idle and just off it. See photos. [image]http://images.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/39482/37581_19143.jpg[/image] [image]http://images.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/190599/Va70881.jpg[/image] Altered1, you wrote nothing about the design of your engine... Is it ringed, or AAC/ABC? Did you break it in properly? You cannot expect it to just run out-of-the-box... [/color]
Posted on: 8/23/2011 9:31 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10683442

RE: Super Tigre S29....are they runners?
[color=#000066]SW, The muffler in the photo seems to be more voluminous than the original S15-25 that the engine is originally equipped with. It should provide better power (the original is a power-bog...). [/color]
Posted on: 8/12/2011 12:54 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10667642

RE: Super Tigre S29....are they runners?
[color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: controlliner If you noticed ,Peter Chinn used 5% nitromethane in the actual tests. I used 10% NITRO with a free flight ''sprinkler''venturi. The potential for 17,500 is quite achievable, I've done it! Dar, with your immature comments and baiting tactics,you really make this particular forum dismal.Control your lousy comments. If you have nothing nice to say, DON'T say anything. [/quote] CL, I do use a sarcastic style that not many like, whenever I encounter a claim that to me seems unreasonable. Although your claim was not as exaggerated, as that of the Rossi owner; who 6-7 years ago, claimed his .40 spins an APC 10x6 at 25,500 RPM... it still seem over the top. Let's analyze what you wrote; you claim almost a 60% power difference... 5% more nitro, at [link=http://www.flyhi.org.il/fuel.htm]an index 3.51% higher than methanol[/link], at the richest setting; can theoretically (but is very unlikely to) add ~15% to power. The open venturi; compared to the 7.5 mm ST Mag IV, should add virtually nothing, but let's just state the reduced intake drag will improve VE by 10%. You wrote nothing about making any other modifications... So, about 25% of the extra power is explainable... What about the remaining 35%? Engines of the same type just don't differ by so much. Do you see where I am pointing? So, before you criticize my lewd remarks to what you wrote, make sure it is correct and looks that way. [/color]
Posted on: 8/11/2011 11:26 PM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10666896

RE: Max rpm for a ringed 90/91?
[color=#000066]PA, The sensitivity to detonation is hardly a folklore... It is a science. Although I refuse to agree with some engine manufacturers break-in technique (which is designed to be a no-brainer to perform, rather the best for the engine - having been written by their PR dept. and not by engineers...); I believe and tend to accept what they say regarding nitro. Unless one's bank account allows risking engine damage with dubious experimentation, I do no recommend exceeding the maximum nitro. [/color]
Posted on: 8/8/2011 7:29 AM by Author "DarZeelon" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10660851