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RE: CRRC PRO GF50i gasoline POWER
I bought a CRRCPro 50i to put on my Giant Aeromaster and had nothing but issues with the motor. Originally, it had a weak spark. Power is supplied by a 4.8V 2400mAh nicad pack. Very weak spark even with replacing the plug with a more reputable make. Motor would not run. Contacted distributor and they said it was covered under warranty. Tried to take the prop off the motor and the whole prop shaft came out. Was honest about what I did and they said send it in anyway. I knew for a fact that the ignition module was bad. All I wanted was a new ignition module. Upon sending it in they said I screwed the motor up because the prop shaft was removed and refused to honor the warranty. During the several weeks that the motor was in the shop, everything they replaced did NOT cure the motor until they replaced the ignition module. They basically rebuilt the whole bottom end of the motor. They charged me $200.00 for the "repairs." If the motor started as it should have I would not have any issues with it or them. It runs somewhat OK now. But they DID include another updated ignition module. The issue I'm having now probably has something to do with my own setup on this motor. Any advise would be appreciated. Here's the issue..... Motor starts and runs fine at low r's, up to 3/5th throttle. It will reach full R's at full throttle but only for 15 to 30 seconds before losing R's amd stalling. My setup is as follows.....92 octane with a 40:1 Klotz oil mix. 22X10 prop. Increased hi end needle 1/4 turn. Still losing R's and stalling. As I see the issues, I either have it over-propped, hi end needle still too lean, or I really do need a 93 octane fuel, although I kind of doubt that one octane point will really make a difference. Any advise guys? Thanx!
Posted on: 8/19/2012 10:30 AM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198720
RE: CRRC starting issues
Well, I dun give up. Turns out my motor is still under warranty so I sent it back to the distributor for repair. It wasn't even trying to spark after my last post. We'll see what Maxford has to say and hopefully it'll run qwhen I get it back.
Posted on: 8/29/2011 7:56 AM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691738
RE: CRRC starting issues
Thanks Guys! I appreciate all the advice. Hopefully something here will work. I was going to drain the tank tomorrow and refill with my weed wacker mix. The Klotz Synthetic I'm running now may be too much for it. If that works, I'll refiill my gasoline can with a higher ratio. A couple other ideas I had are to shut the low speed off all the way; it might be getting too much fuel. If I can get it to run until it stops, that may confirm that there's too much fuel going to the motor. It's possible the ignition module is bad as Rex suggested. It makes some sense. Can it also be possible that adding another 1.2 volt sub-c increasing the voltage to the module to 6 VDC would give me a more powerful spark? That voltage is within the specs for this module. I'd like to try all the easy stuff before ordering a new ignition module. The timing can also be an issue as Timber suggests. The timing adjustment for this motor is sealed in the ignition module and is factory set. Only the sensor is outside the module and I don't see any adjustment as far as moving the sensor goes. We're back to replacing the ignition module and my reason for not buying one at this time. I may very well end up buying another module within the next couple of days. I'd really like to eliminate everything else before I do that. Thanks again guys! Any more suggestions will be very welcome, indeed! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 8/22/2011 6:33 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10682557
CRRC starting issues
Hi folks! Got a great big issue here with a CRRC 50i. It's brand spankin' new and I can't seem to get it to run at all. All I'm getting is a pop or two or a backfire, but that's better than yesterday when all it did was to tire out my arm and cause me to make up new cuss words. I'm using 93 octane fuel with a 28 to 1 ratio of Klotz synthetic oil. Maxford USA said they break theirs in at 25 to 1 ratio. The ignition power is a 4 cell 2000 mAh sub-c nicad pack supplying 4.8 volts. Unloaded voltage is 5.8 VDC, so it's fully charged. I'm getting fuel, air, and spark, although the original plug had a very weak spark. I tried a new plug today and started getting it to fire intermittently. I even tried a few shots of starting fluid. It only popped a little more frequently. I know I'm getting fuel because the plug is wet when I remove it. I know I'm getting air because I can see the butterfly valve open. I reset the low and hi speed needles to the factory settings. With the new plug, I have a much brighter spark, yet I can't get it to sustain anything beyond a pop or two. Any ideas, Guys? Thanks! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 8/22/2011 3:33 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10682286
RE: CRRC Back Fire
Hi folks! Got a great big issue here with a CRRC 50i. It's brand spankin' new and I can't seem to get it to run at all. All I'm getting is a pop or two or a backfire, but that's better than yesterday when all it did was to cause me to make up new cuss words. I'm using 93 octane fuel with a 28 to 1 ratio of Klotz synthetic oil. Maxford USA said they break theirs in at 25 to 1 ratio. The ignition power is a 4 cell 2000 mAh sub-c nicad pack supplying 4.8 volts. Unloaded voltage is 5.8 VDC, so it's fully charged. I'm getting fuel, air, and spark, although the original plug had a very weak spark. I tried a new plug today and started getting it to fire intermittently. I even tried a few shots of starting fluid. It only popped a little more frequently. I know I'm getting fuel because the plug is wet when I remove it. I know I'm getting air because I can see the butterfly valve open. I reset the low and hi speed needles to the factory settings. With the new plug, I have a much brighter spark, yet I can't get it to sustain anything beyond a pop or two. Any ideas, Guys? Thanks! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 8/22/2011 3:24 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10682267
RE: Using ModelCad and/or DesignCad
Hi Guys! Thanks for all the great advise! I was thinking, (a rarety for me,) that if I could find the airfoil/planform in any of my programs I could go from there. The issue is that I'm unsure exactly what airfoil I need and hunting the right one up will be a lot like work. The plans I'm building from are of a 1/4 scale Schweizer TG-2 sailplane. I was hoping to avoid searching for the proper airfoil to match those on the plans. A heck of a lot of 'em out there, right? I may break down and have the ribs and bulkheads scanned at a print shop then import the shapes into my CAD and go from there. Have a great day, guys! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 5/13/2011 5:41 AM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10517233
Using ModelCad and/or DesignCad
Gentlemen, I am trying to figure out how to trace wing ribs and other complicated parts into either of the two cad programs I have. I have both DesignCad and ModelCad. I'm trying to use a Vistablet to trace the parts into the cad programs. The Vistablet is compatible with both Designcad and ModelCad. My issue is that while tracing the curved parts I can never get the curve to stay on the screen. The programs always seems to look at the end point and draw a straight line. In other words, tracing the upper curve of a wing rib will yield only a straight line. I can find nothing in the books regarding what I'm trying to do. The reasoning behind all this is that I want to have the parts saved as DWG or a similar file that I can email to a kit cutter and save some money on them doing the CAD work. Would it be easier to just scan the files into either cad program? Any advise? Thanks! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 5/11/2011 2:18 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10514191
RE: How Many Builders Are Left?
There are still a bunch of us builers left. Kits, not so many. Balsa USA has a number of interesting kits available. Of course there are a number of short kits available as are kit-cutters that'll laser cut from plans or have kits available, but they cost a few bucks. And there is the old stand-by, cut your own. Now THAT'S where the craftsmanship comes in. ARF's are fine but your ARF Mustang will look like everyone elses Mustang by the same company. I would think it an advantage to offer ARC versions of the more popular planes. That way, a little personalization would be great! Just my 2 Cents. Later! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 3/21/2011 7:53 AM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10413484
RE: Lou Andrews aeromaster bipe ..Any info ??
Gentleman, and Ladies if there are any here, I have my eye on a Bob Andrews Aeromaster Too. It doesn't have a construction manual but the kit appears otherwise complete. I was hoping that someone out here has a manual for this kit that I might purchase. This model will round out my stable of Aeromasters. I am in the process of covering a Giant Aeromaster right now, I have a Super Aeromaster still in kit form, and this model will make the perfect addition to my collection. As most of you stated above, the Aeromasters fly like they're on rails! I had one some years ago but lost it to receiver failure. Been looking for a replacement for some years, now. When it rains, it pours! Right guys? I found these kits within the past 8 months. If anyone has a manual for an old Aeromaster Too, please contact me. If not I'll have to try the manual for the Super Aeromaster for direction. Thanx! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 3/21/2011 7:45 AM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10413468
RE: Biggest Boat-Anchor of an Airplane EVER!
Hi Paul! I agree with you 100%! Building your own is always better. I do that every winter. Just finished an old Bingo! I found on the internet and I'm waiting to build my replacement Super Aeromaster. Also on the boards are a Global Hobbies Skyraider and an older 1/4 scale Bud Nosen Citabria. The Citabria's getting a better motor and some repairs inside the wings at the mounts for the struts. Gotta run! Later Guys! Dave
Posted on: 5/25/2010 12:48 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9758106
RE: Biggest Boat-Anchor of an Airplane EVER!
Folks, thanks for all your replies. I finally have a solution to this issue. It took the Better Business Bureau to straighten it out. Nitro Planes has sent a prepaid shipping label and the model went back last Saturday. Now we see just how long it takes them to refund my money. If anyone here works for Nitroplanes, be advised...... NEVER AGAIN will I buy from your company! On a lighter note... I replaced this model already one from Tower Hobbies. It's also a foamy. It's their new EP DG1000 sailplane. Let me tell you all what a wonderful ship this one is! This is the one with the fold-away motor pod in the fuse. It's fast and very manuverable. It thermals like a champ, too! Got in and out of a couple of real boomer thermals last weekend and had to go full down and full left rudder and ails to move it out of the lift. See? I do fly foamies. But seriously, this sailplane is a joy to fly and it looks pretty good, too. Could use some carbon fiber strips to reinforce the wing saddle and the roots of the wings where they plug into the saddle, the wings tend to loosen up some after a few flights, but that's not a real issue. Point is, it flies great! Dave
Posted on: 5/24/2010 12:51 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9755899
RE: Biggest Boat-Anchor of an Airplane EVER!
Paul, this model is sold by Nitroplanes but is manufactured by a company called Airfield Models. I saw your website and as you already know, you aren't the manufacturer of this airplane. if you look at Nitroplanes' site, you'll see the 56 inch P-51 I'm talking about. There's another company out there called Airfield Models. I apologize if I came off as accusing your company of making this model. Dave. P.S. I'll email the website later today.
Posted on: 5/24/2010 12:32 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9755859
RE: Biggest Boat-Anchor of an Airplane EVER!
Hi guys! Live and learn, I guess. Never again will I deal with Nitroplanes nor buy a model manufactured by Airfield Models. I was in a hurry to post this original thread and neglected to mention that there are no cooling vents in the airframe either. It causes one to wonder if this was a contributing factor to the interior fire. Talking with tech support after I extinguished the fire resulted in an offer from them to replace all the electronics. How can I possibly trust the new electronics in the burned airframe? Not on your life! Besides, because of the stench, the model now resides in my carport until I get a prepaid shipping label from Nitroplanes so I can return this boat-anchor of a model. We all know there are inherent dangers with flying RC aircraft. Radio failure, connectors failing, getting your fingers in the way of a spinning propeller, so forth and so on. The list of possible failures is long. Now we add to that list a model prone to fires because it was shoddily designed using the maximum amount of stupidity and lack of safety considerations. Looking at Airfield Models' website for contact information resulted in more frustration because there is no "Contact Us" link. My intentions are to give Nitroplanes until COB Friday to have in my mailbox, one PREPAID shipping lable so I can sent this poor excuse for an RC aircraft back to them for a full refund! Then, I escalate this to the Attorney General's Office and the Better Business Bureau. Airfield Models make DANGEROUS and UNSAFE models! Nitroplanes sells them! Inflight, a fire in these models will cause untold heartaches and most likely, cause a club to lose their flying site. Setting fire to someone's home, place of business, vehicle, field or woods, not to mention the possibility of personal injury in UNACCEPTABLE in our hobby! Basically, I want my money back! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 5/5/2010 11:22 AM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9712210
Biggest Boat-Anchor of an Airplane EVER!
Hi Folks! Three weeks ago I bought a model of a P-51D Mustang from Nitroplanes. It was advertised as a RTF scale replica of the venerable P-51. Now I realize that there will be some assembly required with a 56 inch wingspan model, but that's only the start. After setting the model up which includes some really cheap and weak-looking clevises, retractable landing gear which does not fit correctly and seems as though the mains will collapse on the first semi-hard landing if not on takeoff. It didn't take all that long to plan to change out the questionable hardware and see what can be done with the mains. The real issue comes with running the electric motor up for the first time. At 1/2 to 1/3 throttle, the bushings/bearings failed and the motor had to be replaced. It took 2 weeks for a replacement motor to arrive. Last evening I received and replaced the defective outrunner motor. Checking setup and taking the model outside resulted in 2 minutes of taxi testing before the speed controller shorted out and literally set the interior of the model on fire! I thank the Powers That Be that I was not a couple hundred feet in the air when this occurred. You can imagine the ramifications of such a catastrophic failure and resulting fire should the model have been in the air instead of on the ground! The scale-looking 4-blade prop has individual blades that are screwed onto the hub. No replacement blades are offered by Nitroplanes. What? Another two-plus weeks to replace a dinged blade? Totally unacceptable! Listen up guys. This model is built by Airfield Models and sold by Nitroplanes. In my opinion, both companies deal only with cheap trash that's dangerous to [i]EVERYONE[/i]! Comments welcome. (Even if they're from Nitroplanes and Airfield Models.) Dave Bryer
Posted on: 5/4/2010 7:39 AM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9709211
RE: 1/4 Scale Ryan STA
Hi Eagle, I found some info on the balsa grain types. It's on the SIG site so they get credit for this: BALSA GRAIN LEARN HOW TO IDENTIFY ALL THREE GRAIN TYPES In selecting balsa sheets for use in your model, it is important to consider the way the grain runs through the sheet as well as the weight of the sheet. The grain direction actually controls the rigidity or flexibility of a balsa sheet more than the density does. For example, if the sheet is cut from the log so that the tree's annular rings run across the thickness of the sheet (A-grain, tangent cut), then the sheet will be fairly flexible edge to edge. In fact, after soaking in water some tangent cut sheets can be completely rolled into a tube shape without splitting. If on the other hand the sheet is cut with the annular rings running through the thickness of the sheet (C-grain, quarter grain), the sheet will be very rigid edge to edge and cannot be bent without splitting. When the grain direction is less clearly defined (B-grain, random cut), the sheet will have most intermediate properties between A and C grain. Naturally, B-grain is the most common and is suitable for most jobs. The point to bear in mind is that whenever you come across pure A-grain or C-grain sheets, learn where to use them to take best advantage of their special characteristics. A-GRAIN sheet balsa has long fibers that show up as long grain lines. It is very flexible across the sheet and bends around curves easily. Also warps easily. Sometimes called "tangent cut." DO use for sheet covering rounded fuselages and wing leading edges, planking fuselages, forming tubes, strong flexible spars, HL glider fuselages. DON'T use for sheet balsa wings or tail surfaces, flat fuselage sides, ribs, or formers. Good luck on the build! Dave B-GRAIN sheet balsa has some of the qualities of both type A and type C. Grain lines are shorter than type A, and it feels stiffer across the sheet. It is a general puropse sheet and can be used for many jobs. Sometimes called "random cut." DO use for flat fuselage sides, trailing edges, wing ribs, formers, planking gradual curves, wing leading edge sheeting. DON'T use where type A or type C will do a significantly better job. C-GRAIN sheet balsa has a beautiful mottled appearance. It is very stiff across the sheet and spits easily. But when used properly, it helps to build the lightest, strongest models. Most warp resistant type. Sometimes called "quarter grain." DO use for sheet balsa wings and tails, flat fuselage sides, wing ribs, formers, trailing edges. Best type for HL glider wings and tails. DON'T use for curved planking, rounded fuselages, round tubes, HL glider fuselages, or wing spars.
Posted on: 1/4/2010 9:34 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9387596
RE: Repairing an old Bud Nosen Citabria
Thanks guys! Appreciate the help! I had thought of the thinner and also the heat gun ideas but was unsure of the effect the thinner would have on the structure beneath. I hadn't thought of using acetone, though. Hopefully, I can get to work on the Citabria in the next couple weeks. I should be getting my Balsa USA EAA Bipe off the building boards by then and start on the Citabria. I'm looking forward to flying both these models as soon as they're finished and the weather breaks. Thanks again! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 12/30/2008 5:59 AM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8297621
Repairing an old Bud Nosen Citabria
Gentlemen, I hope this post finds everyone very well! I have a dilema I was hoping someone might have some advice. I wish to repair an old Bud Nosen 1/4 scale Citabria that I've had for some years. It's been in storage for many years and has some moderate to heavy "hanger-rash." My problem is that the covering on the wings and tail feathers appears to be a material akin to silkspan and dope. It's also painted. I need to get into the wing structure to replace the wing strut mounts. Does any one have any suggestions for removing the silkspan covering without damaging the structure beneath? Not to slight any of the newer guys...or gals here, but I was hoping that some of the more experienced "old-school" modellers might have dealt with this issue in the past. Any advice would be greatly appreviated. Thanks! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 12/26/2008 7:15 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8285290
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi Folks! Is anyone reading this forum because I have several questions regarding a Saito 125 that I'm installing in a G.P. P6E Hawk. Yeah, the ARF. I kinda need advise on how big to cut the cooling holes in the cowel, how long should I break-in the motor before goin' aviatin' with this new model. Any advise would be very much appreciated. Thanx! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 5/31/2007 9:35 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5928270
RE: RC Airplane hits Paraglider - Causes Crash
Hi Everyone! This is my first post. If I'm not mistaken a full-scale aircraft has the right-of-way. It's the model pilot's responsibility to avoid the FS aircraft. Also I believe it's in the AMA handbook that one can't fly within 5 miles of a FS airport. Later! Dave Bryer
Posted on: 9/8/2006 3:46 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4725477
RE: Box PLane
Some years ago I requested similar info from NASA on a design they were researching to replace the Navy's Grumman E2B Hawkeye carrier-based radar plane. I think, if I remember correctly, The full scale aircraft was to use phased array radar and other sensors embedded in the leading and trailing edges of the the wings. I was fortunate enough to receive a 8.5X11 inch 3-view line drawing of the aircraft, but nothing specific. It was supposed to turn out as my scratch-built project but due to personal constraints, the project literally didn't get off the ground. If I can locate that drawing, I'll post it here. That is if my ex-wife didn't chuck it along with a lot of my other airplane stuff. No wonder I gave her the walkin' papers! LOL Later! Dave
Posted on: 5/22/2006 10:51 AM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4304416
RE: Delta Wing CG ?
Hi Moldmaker! Dave here. This site will give you that information about finding a delta wing CG. http://adamone.rchomepage.com/index5.htm
Posted on: 4/12/2006 3:39 PM by Author "Daveb572"
in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4157234
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