RE: Rules and reulations for float flying in Massachusetts?
[quote]ORIGINAL: chistech I would recommend getting in touch with local RC clubs in your area and find out where they float fly. Our club has worked very hard to secure a private beach on a 88 acre pond here in southern MA and anyone flying here has to be either a club guest or member as we have insured the pond and the owner as one of our club's alternate flying sites. You should join the AMA and fly at a pond with other AMA float flyers to ''learn'' the basics. I can tell you there are lots of ponds in the New England area but lots are reservoirs and cannot be flown on. Others have very little access or parking and the ponds that are used are guarded well by the float flyers. The last thing wanted is someone not knowing much, losing the right for everyone to fly there. You could get in touch with Andy Argenio the New England AMA VP, who could help you find a float flying club close to your location. I know they fly a lot up in Contocook NH. in one of the state parks I believe. The Charles River club has a couple of float flying sites they use too. [/quote] Hi Chistech, That's a sound advice, however I failed to mention that I am a member of the AMA and I am a member of a flying club. The problem is that our club does not organize any float-fly events primarily due the lack of interest amongst our members; I am also not aware of any other clubs in the area that get involved with float flying. If I am not mistaken last year there was a some sort of joint float-fly event that was organized by a couple clubs in the area, but I don't know much beyond that. I also have no idea if they are planning on organizing something this year... I will ask around to see what I can find, but bottom line is that I simply wanted to try float-flying to see if it is even something that I would enjoy doing, but it looks like finding a flying site might be more difficult than I thought.
Posted on: 5/21/2012 6:16 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11088610

Rules and reulations for float flying in Massachusetts?
Hey guys, I recently picked up a nice glow-powered seaplane at a local swap meet and I am really anxious to fly it and see what the whole float flying is all about :) I am an experienced flyer and have flown everything from small 3D foamies to giant-scale gas airplanes, but I am completely new to float flying and I don't know of there are special rules and regulations that I need to adhere to. Since this is not an electric plane it does not exactly fit the criteria of a park flyer so I am pretty sure I can't just randomly pick a lake and start flying, can I?
Posted on: 5/16/2012 1:29 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11083337

RE: New Hitec Aurora 9-Channel 2.4Ghz Radio System
[quote]ORIGINAL: Highflight [quote]ORIGINAL: Howard Try a little harder and I think you will find that Alan's answer was on the money if not over the top. Howard [/quote] Well, what I got from the last several posts is that I should toss [b]all [/b]my NiMh battery (RX) packs away and go back to good old Nicads for stuffing glo-powered airplanes with. I also got that 4-cell packs should be made pretty much illegal to even have in your possession, and that 5-cell packs are the new normal for RX packs. I got that any more than 5 servos of either digital or analog can draw high current in short periods of time, and therefore I go back to the point that NiMh packs should be tossed and replaced with Nicads that better handle peak loads compared to how NiMh batteries handle peak loads. I also got that 2000mah packs for sport airplanes, while once considered to be a ''large'' pack, are really very wimpy because 2.4ghz receivers are so sensitive to voltage drops. Therefore, one should run C-cell (Nicad) packs routinely and toss any AA's you might have laying around that are waiting to destroy perfectly good airplanes. I got that not following the above will result in debris filled flying fields, and that probably 99.9% of crashes are not to be blamed on any radio shortcoming, but rather, on a battery issue of some kind, but following the above guidelines will virtually eradicate any battery related problem. I got that NiMh batteries were foisted upon us by tree-huggers, and we were all fooled into thinking that they were an ''improvement'' over Nicads. If true, then I am really ticked off because I was dragged kicking and screaming toward the use of NiHm batteries, and I did NOT want to change from Nicads that I knew well and had served me very well for decades. As a side note, I now know that I am extremely lucky that I kept my Alpha-4 charger so that I can put it back into service doing what it does extremely well by charging and maintaining my Nicads. I hope I got all that right. [;)] [/quote] You got it almost right.. You cannot use a 4-cell battery with any 2.4GHz system and/or more than 4 standard servos without risking to lose your model. Switching from a NiMH to a NiCD won't buy you much either. Switching to a 5-cell battery on the other hand will.
Posted on: 11/15/2011 1:29 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10813598

RE: crop duster r/c
Hello guys, I am currently building a 110" Agri Duck which looks like a cartoon version of a crop duster and I really wanted to add "functional" sprayers. I've been searching around on the Internet for days and I see that many people have succeeded creating a spray effect by using either a smoke system or baby powder and compressed air (or CO2). I have plenty of experience with smoke pumps, but due to the size of the airplane and the fact that it is built almost entirely out of foam core board I am not sure this would be the best approach. As I am sure you know the smoke oil is quite messy and in this particular case the spray booms will have to become my exhaust and I am not sure how would that affect the way the engine runs. I like the idea about the compressed air and the baby powder, because it sounds simple and inexpensive, but I have limited experience in plumbing air systems in an aircraft. As a matter of fact I've never even owned a plane with air retracts so I am not even sure where to begin with this. I understand the concept, but I am not sure which components to get and how to design the powder reservoir so that the compressed gas would spray the powder. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
Posted on: 6/22/2011 10:58 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10586880

I need ideas how to setup "functional" sprayers on a crop duster model
I am currently in the process of building a 110" Agri Duck designed and sold my MudDuck Aviation. The plane looks like a cartoon version of a crop duster and I thought it would be really cool to add "functional" sprayers. I am saying "functional" because I want them to look and work like the real thing, but I am not planing on spraying chemicals and pesticides with it. I have several ideas for the sprayer design, but I don't know what I can actually "spray" to get the desired effect. The easiest way would be to use some sort of fluid pumped into the spray bar using a windshield washing fluid pump, but I can't think of any type of fluid that would work, unless I install injectors and run the system at very high pressure, which would be difficult if not impossible. I also though about using flour or talc powder, but I am afraid this will create clogs in the lines, not to mention the fact that I still don't know what I could use to pressurize the system, except a CO2 cartridge perhaps. Aside from these challenges the design of the plane is the perfect platform to experiment on because the fuselage has tons of room, and the plane has a very large payload so weight is generally not a problem, within reason of course. Few other things to consider are that the plane is made almost entirely of 3mm foam core board, which is usually painted with a rattle can, and that the plane flies with a top speed of 15mph-20mph Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Posted on: 6/22/2011 9:18 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10586753

RE: Hitec Aurora 9 Programming Chart
Awesome work, thank you! The only thing I can suggest is color coordinating the different categories to make the chart easier to read, but other than that it looks great.
Posted on: 5/14/2011 8:03 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10519215

RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
Thank you for the info, guys! It looks like the DLE30 is a good match for this plane, which is great because I really didn't want to buy another engine. With that said, the only thing that is preventing me from buying it is the covering issue. It is not the end of the world, but when spending close to $500 on a plane I expect it to last a long time.
Posted on: 5/3/2011 6:36 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10498802

RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
I am thinking about getting the RC Guys Decathlon myself and I am planning on using a DLE30 on it, however I would like to get a better feel of what kind of performance I can expect with that engine. I am also planning to install a smoke system and I am afraid that the extra weight might be too much for the DLE30 to handle. I am not looking for 3D performance, however I would like to have a little bit extra power to keep me out of trouble if I do something stupid The plan for the smoke system is to keep everything else as light as possible to offset as much of the weight possible. I am planning on using two 1100mAh A123 batteries to power the receiver, smoke pump and the ignition through an IBEF. I am also planning on using two 11oz Fiji bottles for fuel and smoke oil. My other concern is with the covering. I was under the impression that this has been addressed in the latest production kits, but I saw some fairly recent posts on this subject, which leads me to believe this is still an issue. When I called RC Guys today they assured me that this is no longer an issue, but I wanted to make sure.
Posted on: 5/2/2011 1:03 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10497332

RE: Can you recommend a Cellpro Multi4 equivalent with discharge capability?
I bought the Cellpro after all... thanks for your help!
Posted on: 12/31/2010 6:22 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10229383

Can you recommend a Cellpro Multi4 equivalent with discharge capability?
I am looking to buy a quality multi-chemistry charger, similar to the Cellpro Multi4, except it must have discharge/cycle capability. I love everything I've read about the Cellpro, and I almost pulled the trigger to buy one yesterday, but I really need to be able to cycle my packs occasionally. What else is out there?
Posted on: 12/29/2010 11:14 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10225295

DLE-30 idle and vibration problems
I have a DLE-30 v1 (side carb) that seems to be acting a little weird. First of all I can't really seem to get it to hold a low idle without quitting. I tried adjusting both the high and low speed needles, but the best I could get was around 2300rpm and only after the engine has warmed up. I am also noticing some inconsistent transition - it seems fine on the ground, but once in the air it wants to quit when I go to full throttle; the idle settings also seem to change all the time in the air. Last but not least, I have some pretty noticeable vibration at high idle (2400-2500rpm) which worries me. I checked the firewall and the stand-offs and everything is solid and all the bolts are tight. The prop and spinner have been perfectly balanced also. The engine is relatively new with about 1/2 gallon of fuel ran through it. I am running a mix of 30:1 using Stihl conventional oil and an 18x8 Xoar laminated prop.
Posted on: 10/25/2010 11:52 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10092869

RE: Senior Telemaster~where?
If you want a giant, slow-flying airplane, why not build a Mud Duck? [:D] http://www.mudduckaviation.com/
Posted on: 8/20/2010 2:22 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9947701

RE: Spend my money.... Transmitter??
My vote goes to the Hitec Aurora 9 as well. If you have $350 to spend on a TX that would be the one to get IMO. Since you are just getting into the hobby you would appreciate the low cost of the receivers and ease of use (programming). In my club many of the die-hard Futaba and Spektrum fans are switching to Hitec. The only downside to this system is that there are no micro receivers available yet (in the works), but if you are not planning on flying foamies anytime soon that shouldn't be a big deal. Whatever you decide to get I would suggest that you buy the most feature-rich transmitter you can afford. I don't agree with buying a cheap 4-channel TX, or an entry level model, because you will outgrow it very quickly, and when you try to sell it, it will be worthless. I wish I had done this when I started, but I didn't listen, and now I have 3 transmitters just collecting dust :) P.S. Take a looks at this comparison chart: http://www.hitecaurora.com/Comparison_Chart.pdf
Posted on: 8/19/2010 9:30 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9944710

How to fix a broken landing gear on a Krill Katana?
I had a little mishap yesterday while landing my 28% Katana, and I broke the landing gear plate and cracked the fuse a little bit. I have never owned or repaired a composite airplane before so I don't even know where to start or what to use as far as glues, materials, etc. My initial thought was to remove the landing gear plate, trace it, cut a new one and glue it back in place. Unfortunately after I removed the engine box and the canister so I can have a better look, I discovered that the plate is not only glued on the sides, but it is also glued to the bottom of the fuselage, which would make it extremely difficult, if not impossible to remove. My second thought was to cut a piece of plywood with a similar shape, and glue it on top of the broken plate, but not only that this would add weight, but I am also not if this will be strong enough to support the landing gear. As you can see from the pictures I also have some oil sucked into the landing gear plate, which would prevent the epoxy from making a good bond... As far as the cracks on the fuselage go for the most part they look purely cosmetic and non-structural, and while I really want to get them fixed, I don't poses the skills to do a clean repair, and I am almost thinking I am better off to leave them alone. What do you guys think? P.S. Since I really like this plane, and I want it fixed the right way, I really wouldn't mind paying someone to do a professional repair. Do you know anybody in the New England area that repairs composite airframes?
Posted on: 7/19/2010 3:20 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9874543

Question for Great Planes 1/3 Pitts Special owners
Hello, guys! I am currently in the process of putting together a 1/3 scale Great Planes Pitts ARF. I previously posted some questions about power recommendation, battery setup, etc and I got lots of feedback from many people, and current owners. Well, I need you help again. I am half way through the build, stuck at the step that describes how to position/mount the interplane struts. The manual says to position the struts on the outboard sides of the 70* compound bend brackets on the bottom of the top wing and the 110* compound bend metal brackets on top of the bottom wing. It also says that to find the location of the iterplane struts on the bottom wing I have to measure 3-1/4" forward from the TE of the aileron. I have done all that, however when I position the strut on the metal brackets, as described in the manual, it fits perfectly on the bottom brackets, but not on the top - there is a pretty good size gap there. I can easily fix that by simply bending the metal brackets on the top wing with a pair of pliers, but before I do that I want to make sure that I am not missing something out, and that I am not going to screw up the incidence of the top wing. Has anybody experienced something like that while building their Pitts??? I am positive I am using the correct brackets everywhere, and I know that I put them in the right places, because the locations were marked from the factory.... Thanks!!!
Posted on: 3/11/2010 8:32 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9574234

Question for Hangar 9 Super Stick .60 owners
Hey guys! I am currently "building" a Hangar 9 Super Stick .60 from the so called "Value series". I am planning on mounting a Magnum .91 4-stroke on the nose, and I am seriously considering to move the rudder and elevator servos towards the back, mounted right on the side of the fuselage. I prefer this type of setup due to the short length of the pushrods, and the cleaner/easier installation. My only concern is the balance of the aircraft. My guess is that I will be OK or pretty close to what the CG needs to be due to the weight on the .91, but I wanted to make sure of that prior cutting holes in the fuse. Has anybody done anything like that and what was the result? Thanks!
Posted on: 2/25/2010 7:42 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9535750

RE: Pitts/Fuji 50
I hope I won't get yelled at for posting in an old thread, but I recently bought a GP Pitts from a club member (been sitting in storage for years) and I was trying to find more information about it. From everything that I have read so far it looks like I chose the right equipment for it: DLE55 on the nose, Hitec 635HB servos all around, and of course, smoke! Speaking of smoke, I know that some people have been successful in installing a smoke system in their Pitts, but I haven't been able to find any pictures, write-ups, etc. I was looking at the fuselage the other day, and I just can't figure out where to put a second tank never mind all the other stuff that goes along with it... Does anybody know where I can find more information?
Posted on: 1/7/2010 11:17 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9395396

RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
[quote]ORIGINAL: Piston Hey Tom You are headed in the right direction. Steve and I have been breaking in our YD-A engines (both the 112 and 56) on a 40:1 synthetic mix. I was not thoroughly convinced, since I have been a ''mineral oil first then go to synthetic oil after several hours'' type of guy. However, these engines are responding extremely well to the synthetic oil only scenario. In fact we will be (are) changing the manuals to reflect this. 1. Use a high quality synthetic oil. Amsoil is not recommended. 2. Start with 40:1 gas/oil 3. After several hours you can go to a max of 50:1.. We do not recommend (simply because you don't need too) you go higher than 50:1 gas/oil. Hope that warms your day Tom... It is freezing here... and at your place too!!! Keep those fires burning. Cheers Henry [/quote] Why is Amsoil not recommended? I've seen similar comments a few times, but I haven't been able to find any proof/reason for them. I don't have a RC Gas engine yet, but I have an old-school 2-stroke ATV (Honda 250R), and as far as ATVs go, the Amsoil is one of the best oils you can get along with Redline, Maxima 927, etc. Please don't get me wrong, I am not arguing with you, but just trying to get more information since I am looking to get my first gasser very soon, and I have about a gallon of Amsoil Dominator oil I was planning to use....
Posted on: 12/10/2009 10:13 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9318857

RE: GP RV 4 Engine
A 61FX would be an overkill for this plane - too much weight and power for a model this size. Keep in mind also that this is a scale model and not a 3D airplane. I fly mine with an OS .46AX w/ Bisson Pitts muffler and I have just about unlimited vertical. http://www.flickr.com/photos/brcf/3956366107/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/brcf/3956391307/
Posted on: 11/11/2009 10:24 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9247511

RE: What paint/clear coat can I use on foam board? Starting to build a Mud Duck!
Hmmm...diesel! The other option would be a .61 Diesel, but I will try the .68 glow first. I will let you know how it goes either way :) Now, do you have any tips on how to position the stab struts?!? I think I will be using lightweight 1/4" dowels instead of the recommended spruce sticks, but there is some lack of detail in the plans/manual as of where to position them. I figured that the length of the stab struts has to be ~18" and I am clear on how to glue them to the fuselage, but I don't know where to position them on the stab itself, and how to make a secure joint. I guess one option would be to align them with the dowel on the horizontal stab (leading edge) or try and find the middle (length-wise and width-wise) and glue them somehow.... My other challenge is with the wing struts... I got distracted while building the wing and did not quite position the hinges according to the plan [:@] I was supposed to make a cutout in the W2 panel starting at the score line going forward, but instead I position the hinge in the middle of the score line. Basically my hinge is positioned roughly 1/4" - 1/2" further back from the leading edge. I have not yet attached the hinges on the bottom of the fuselage because of that as I want to see where the wing strut will meet the fuselage, but it might be challenging to make sure that the wing halves are equally high. Btw should the wings be flat or is there some dihedral?!? I am sorry I just keep throwing questions at you, but so far everything that you've said has been extremely helpful to me!
Posted on: 11/10/2009 10:30 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9243037

RE: What paint/clear coat can I use on foam board? Starting to build a Mud Duck!
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mud Duck Aviation [quote]p.s. Boy, I really hope this MDS .68 will move 'er around :P[/quote] You going to be SLOW... that is for sure, but it should fly on it! Just don't be in a rush when climbing for altitude [:D] You will have to let me know how well that engine did. [/quote] I will take photos and videos and I will send them to you as soon as I "maiden" her :)) I was scared that it might be seriously underpowered with a .68, but it is the only engine I have that is not in use.... actually if you recommend a 91 4-stroke this shouldn't be too bad, because from what I've read, the .68 (when running right) produces almost the same power as an OS 91 (2-stroke), but it is much heavier.
Posted on: 11/10/2009 9:07 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9242865

RE: What paint/clear coat can I use on foam board? Starting to build a Mud Duck!
Thank you for all the input guys! I got some really useful information out of this thread. One comment that concerned me a bit was that Rustoleum Painter's Touch is not fuel proof nor compatible with Lusterkote: [quote]ORIGINAL: Jim_Purcha What brand of Rust-Oleum paint did you use? Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch is not fuel proof or compatible with Lustrekote. Jim [quote]ORIGINAL: outdoorhunting If you use Rust Oleum, you won't need to clear it. It will have a really good shine to it. Just let it dry a few days. I painted a cowl with it 2 yrs ago & it shows no signs of a paint melt down. The color choice is fairly good also. [/quote] [/quote] Unfortunately that is exactly the paint that I used to paint (dark blue) my entire fuselage with and I already purchased a Lusterkote Crystal Clear. I did a little test on a scrap piece of foam painted with the same Painter's Touch paint and the Lusterkote did not affect it much - I noticed a very small difference in color, but I thought that this might have been caused by the fact that the paint wasn't fully cured (2hrs or so) Just to be safe I would like to be sure that there isn't a know incompatibility between Rustoleoum Painter's Touch and Lusterkote before I proceed fuel-proofing my fuselage. Btw my "Duck" is almost done and I am hoping to fly her this weekend! p.s. Boy, I really hope this MDS .68 will move 'er around :P
Posted on: 11/9/2009 3:28 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9240913

Can you recommend a nice airplaine for a DLE30?
I am trying to chose and build my first gas airplane. I've been doing a lot of reading, but mostly on engine related topics, and I have pretty much settled on buying the new DLE30. From what I have read this is a very good engine with an excellent price tag and now the only thing I need is a nice airframe to pair it with [:D] I am mostly doing sport flying and trying to get into IMAC; I have little to no interest in 3D - I wouldn't mind if the plane is 3D capable, but this is not a requirement. I am looking for a semi-scale airplane, but I wanted to get something different than the everyday Edge, Yak, Sukhoi, etc but I would still consider getting one. I really like biplanes, but most of them are hard to fly unfortunately - I saw a beautiful Christen Eagle at the field the other day, but I was told that the plane is discontinued. What an awesome flyer that was!!! I've had great experience with Aeroworks, and that was the first place I looked, but I was surprised to see that they have nothing to offer in 1.20/30cc size. I read through the forums that they are currently working on 1.20 size planes and are targeting to release them 1Q 2010, but I am not sure if I can wait that long [:)] Anyway - through some ideas and maybe you can help me find what I am looking for - a sweet flying acrobatic model that would fly great with a DLE30 cc. Again, I don't have anything against the Extras and the Yaks, but they probably wouldn't be my first choice.
Posted on: 10/15/2009 11:03 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9175145

RE: pic from the field
Here's a few pics from our field - we have have the best of both worlds - the green and the white stuff LOL! Am I THE ONLY person that actually loves the winter and gets excited when they announce a blizzard? [:D]
Posted on: 10/7/2009 11:11 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9155449

RE: What paint/clear coat can I use on foam board? Starting to build a Mud Duck!
Thanks, I will give it a shot on a scrap piece of foam board to see what happens.
Posted on: 10/7/2009 6:46 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154734

RE: What paint/clear coat can I use on foam board? Starting to build a Mud Duck!
OK so I guess the bottom line is if I use regular spray paint (Krylon or Rustoleum) to paint the model, what type of fuel-proof clear cote can I use on top of that?
Posted on: 10/7/2009 4:24 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154417

RE: What paint/clear coat can I use on foam board? Starting to build a Mud Duck!
[quote]ORIGINAL: inedesca Not only the paper adds weight but contributes almost nothing to strength, AND you must seal the edges and the paper otherwise it will soak in fuel. There is a 5 mm chinese foamboard covered both faces with thin films of styrene sheets, this is the one I use. Look after it is strong and comes in colors. I get it at decoration shops. Go to http://www.radiocontrolesing.com.mx there you will find some good ideas. Better get some depron. [/quote] Part of the problem is that the sheets I need must be 40"x60" which makes it VERY expensive to ship, and I am stuck only with materials I can find locally. I had a hard time finding even the regular Foamboard in that size - most places had to special order it and its price was about $16/sheet! I found an Art supply warehouse and I was able to get it from there dirt cheap and avoided shipping. I agree that the paper back FoamCore board may not be the best material, but I was just following the recommendations on the manufacturer's web site: http://www.mudduckaviation.com/faq/faq.php?answer=3&cat_name=FomeCor&category_id=2#3 http://www.mudduckaviation.com/faq/faq.php?answer=22&cat_name=FomeCor&category_id=2#22 I am aware thatI have to seal all the seams and edges and I believe that I can use clear packing tape and paper tape for that purpose and paint on top of it. I have not received the manual/plans yet so I am not 100% familiar with the build process, but I am pretty sure this issue has been addressed. Thank you for your suggestions!
Posted on: 10/7/2009 4:14 PM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154390

RE: What paint/clear coat can I use on foam board? Starting to build a Mud Duck!
I am using paper-face foam board, and I guess you just added more problems to thing about LOL! I was not aware that the fuel will eat the foam so I guess I need to find a way to seal all the edges somehow...
Posted on: 10/7/2009 11:09 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9153730

RE: What paint/clear coat can I use on foam board? Starting to build a Mud Duck!
I found this in the FAQ section on "www.mudduckaviation.com/faq" but it still doesn't answer all my questions: "Everybody tends to use Krylon spray paint as it is typically the cheapest route. You can pick just about anything on sale when you are ready to paint, but as always, paint a scrap piece of foamboard and subject it to both raw fuel and exhaust to examine the results before you paint the entire plane. One important painting step when the model will be powered with a combustion engine, is to top-coat the front of the fuselage with (Monokote brand) Lustercoat Clear paint (or other known fuel-proof clear). This is because even though almost all cheap paints can handle exhaust overspray, many will be attacked by RAW fuel which can be spilled or splashed on the front of the fuselage when fueling or when first trying to start the engine." I looked up the Monokote Clear Cote and it is indeed fuel proof, however it says that it is not compatible with any other brand paint. I guess if want to use is I will have to paint the entire plane with Monokote brand products, but they are quite pricey...
Posted on: 10/7/2009 10:25 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9153625

What paint/clear coat can I use on foam board? Starting to build a Mud Duck!
I am starting to build a Mud Duck MKII as soon as the plans arrive in the mail, and I am trying to get all the bits and pieces I will need for the build. The biggest challenge so far has been choosing the correct paint and clear coat finish that will resist on raw fuel (15%) and is suitable for use on Foam core board. Can you suggest what to use for this application?
Posted on: 10/7/2009 10:14 AM by Author "Devil_Inside" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9153596