RE: OS 33cc gas engine
Does it have a standard reliable ignition, or some one-off specialty created for OS that will cost more than the engine to replace when it dies?
Posted on: 3/29/2012 4:18 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11019589

RE: spark plugs
Just a few years ago, NGK CM6 plugs could be bought for $2 each in bulk quantities from sparkplug.com Then someone decided to greatly increase the price, not sure why. It's good to see the Denso equivalents are available at reasonable prices. Honda needs to sell a lot more generators so they increase production volume on these little bitty plugs we use. That'll insure we have a steady low cost supply.
Posted on: 3/24/2012 5:53 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11012824

RE: Is it going lean ?
A lean engine will tend to sag or slow down when you go vertical.
Posted on: 3/22/2012 3:43 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11010297

RE: Have You Had Ignition Failures On Your Gasser?
I have had failures with DA, 3W and Falkon ignitions. My CH and RCexcl ignitions haven't failed......yet. Anyone who has been flying gassers for the last decade has seen plenty of ignition failures.
Posted on: 3/7/2012 5:19 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10989764

RE: bore re-chroming
You can try these guys in your neighborhood. http://www.mt-llc.com/
Posted on: 3/3/2012 6:43 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10984756

RE: New OS 33cc Gasser..any reports yet?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dick T. [quote]ORIGINAL: MTK There are several threads on this engine. There is quite a bit of difficulty some have had in starting the engine by hand, myself included But some reports have been positive. OS recommends a starter for a reason...FWIW2U [/quote] Spoke to the product manager in the Hobbico/Great Planes booth at the AMA show this past weekend. He stated the O.S. ignition module requires a minimum of 120 r.p.m. to fire so a strong, fast flip is needed. This is why a starter is recommended. Same issue on the GT55. Someone in another tread stated the ignition module is now being replaced with RCXel. He said that is not true although some fellows are changing to RCXel for easier hand starts but O.S. units retain the RPM minimum for safety and work just fine. [/quote] Most electronic ignitions require a good flip to spark. The RCXel ignition doesn't retard the spark if you turn the prop over slowly, and that can bite you because it will be full advance. That's also the way the CH ignition was designed. The DA ignitions and older 3W ignitions with inductive pickups won't spark at all if you flip slowly, so they are a little safer for the inexperienced. If the OS engine requires a starter, it's going to kill sales. All the other gassers are easy hand starters.
Posted on: 1/15/2012 3:58 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10909487

RE: DLE-20 fried a piston...
Take it apart and examine the piston and ring. That should tell you why it seized. Manufacturer error or operator error? Who knows without examining anything.
Posted on: 1/8/2012 8:04 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10897747

RE: DLE55 Rear Exhaust Conversion
Not possible. The piston also needs to rotate 90 degrees, and that can't can be done.
Posted on: 1/3/2012 4:14 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10889087

RE: DLE Long term reliability ?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Antique I can buy from a Chinese wholesaler...I can buy THREE 111s for the retail price of ONE DA 120...What's wrong with this picture ??? Warranty service ? ME..Think I can't do the work ? 24 YEARS experience with almost ALL small gassers now being sold...If I could buy from the DLE factory the number would likely be FOUR 111s....Think someone is getting bent over ???? I'm glad my working with gassers is almost over, 75 years old tomorrow, time to quit.(Again)....I said a few years ago that when the Chinese figure out they don't need a middleman it wpuld be over...Look around, gasser Armegeddon is almost here. ..Just remodeled my shop, cleaning out some (lots) of old used gassers, making space for my 78 Harley chopper...Live to ride, Ride to live...CIAO, baby... [/quote] Ralph, are you still able to buy DLEs from a Chinese wholesaler, or has that pipeline dried up? I wouldn't mind buying more engines than I need...[:D]
Posted on: 1/1/2012 7:41 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10885897

RE: Why Gassers are more addictive or better than Glows e?
[quote]ORIGINAL: speedracerwon While part of the reason to not flying fuel before was the ease of electric, the mess and the smell of fuel was the main. After 10 gasoline flights a member of my club told me about using 100LL Avgas. I recently bought a 2011 Explorer with leather interior. Since I have switched to Avgas I no longer have the fear of gasoline ruining my ''new car smell''. While those will argue the use of avgas I find that the lack of a lingering fuel oder is plenty enough reason for me to pay the extra dollar and take the trip to the airport to purchase it. For those that may clain the is no benefit of using Avgas I will say that I notice no lack of performance in ayway shape or form. It works for me. ... Vinny [/quote] Avgas also doesn't go stale during long storage because it's highly refined. Good for winter storage for lawn and garden equipment and motorcycles. 100LL does contain significant lead, which can be a problem if you have an oxygen sensor or catalytic converter - obviously not on your model plane.
Posted on: 12/27/2011 8:27 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10877943

RE: Why Gassers are more addictive or better than Glows e?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Cyberwolf [quote]ORIGINAL: Diablo-RCU Glow engines are much better than gas.....for practicing dead stick landings. [/quote] Just how did you come to that conclusion??? Most gas engines are in larger airframes that in itself fly easier than the smaller glow planes do. The larger planes have a ton of lift which makes them gluide easy, I can't say the same for some smaller
Posted on: 12/26/2011 5:52 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10877299

RE: Why Gassers are more addictive or better than Glows e?
Glow engines are much better than gas.....for practicing dead stick landings.
Posted on: 12/26/2011 4:26 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10876362

RE: ZDZ 80 B2 RV-L question
[quote]ORIGINAL: flyerdave Also, how does the ZDZ 80 rv single cylinder compare with the twin? Do either of them suffer from the starting difficulties that I have read about on some ZDZ's? Thanks [/quote] I have the ZDZ 80 single and twin. These are the original versions with aluminum nicasil cylinders, about ten years old. The twin is not quite as strong as the single, maybe 200 rpm down with a 26x10 prop. No starting problems. Any starting problems are likely due to your techique, carb needle settings and tank plumbing. Both are very light engines for their displacement. My advice would be to get the single - less money and a little more power and still smooth enough. Or get the new ZDZ-90 for even more power. If you must have a twin, get a DLE-111.
Posted on: 12/23/2011 4:10 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10873578

RE: Precision Eagle 5.8 GLOW to Gas possible????
Hopefully, the glow motor was stored with some after-run oil in it. Otherwise, you may have some rusted needle bearings on the rod. Glow fuel is fairly corrosive to steel. Gasoline + oil protects steel from rust. No special protection is needed for engine storage when running gas.
Posted on: 12/22/2011 5:30 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10871192

RE: New for welding
One thing I don't understand is they tell you to use a water-alcohol mix to generate a shielding gas. Then they warn you not to use methanol as it generates toxic gas and the manufacturer takes no responsibility if you use methanol. So, what alcohol do they want you to use? They never say. Perhaps they are saying that any alcohol generates toxic gas and their plasma welder is unsafe to use?
Posted on: 12/10/2011 4:00 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10853426

RE: Timing a RCexl without degree wheel
A popsicle stick in the exhaust port works fine for a piston stop. Then I use the degree wheel made from scrap wood and a print out from the internet + paper clip for a pointer.
Posted on: 12/9/2011 7:56 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10852410

RE: DA 100 Carb problems
Things to check: Is your clunk filter in the tank totally clogged? Blow into tank vent and see if your ears pop. Is the pulse port on the engine lined up with the hole in the gasket and pulse port on the carb? Is the pulse port clogged with anything like gasket sealant? Are your reed valves cracked or badly chipped or not closing?
Posted on: 11/25/2011 6:05 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10828151

RE: Kudos to Antique (Ralph Cunningham)
I've sent him a couple-two-tree cranks to straighten - they always come out right on.
Posted on: 11/19/2011 2:43 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10819806

RE: Prop Question
Good props (Menz, Mejzlik, Biela) don't need a 10mm reamer. The center hole is properly sized by the manufacturers. All you need is a drill jig for the prop bolt holes.
Posted on: 10/29/2011 5:40 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10787767

RE: oil War
Have her use a paper towel with a little gasoline on it. Cuts the oil much better than water-based cleaners like Windex etc.
Posted on: 10/21/2011 6:14 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10776752

RE: Tired ZDZ50
Pull the cylinder off before you buy any parts. Inspect the piston and cylinder for gouges and any signs of damage. If the piston wasn't seized and the cylinder isn't scored, then the ring is likely just stuck in the piston groove with carbon. A little careful cleaning should fix it up. Don't break the ring, it's typically brittle.
Posted on: 10/21/2011 6:10 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10776750

RE: Air Hobbies 50cc/3.0 twin
You should donate that engine to the Smithsonian museum. I think that's the only one that ever ran.....[:D]
Posted on: 10/16/2011 5:36 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10768583

RE: zdz 40 RV carb
All the diaphragm carbs work the same. No fuel draw? Look at the tank, clunk and lines first. Then make sure the pump side of the carb is wet with fuel. Dry diaphragms don't seal well enough to pump fuel. You can squirt some WD40 into the fuel nipple to wet up the carb. Make sure the pulse hole on the carb is lined up correctly on the engine and the gasket seals well. If the pulse hole doesn't get a pulse from the engine there will be no fuel draw.
Posted on: 10/15/2011 4:08 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10766153

RE: GN2 Oil - Ashless?
Ashless oils are the wrong oils for air-cooled motors during break-in or any other time, despite what 3W or DA advise. What is meant by an ashless oil? It means the oil won't produce an ash in a specific test when the oil is burned in the laboratory. The ash is a byproduct of the type of detergent package in the oil. The ashless oil detergent package keeps the plug from whiskering when a boat motor is used at constant speed. It is not a high-temperature detergent package, it is a low temperature compatible detergent for water-cooled engines only. Low-ash oils contain a different detergent package designed for high-temperature running in air-cooled motors - that detergent leaves a little more ash in the laboratory combustion test. Our air-cooled engines operate at higher temperatures than water-cooled motors, and do not operate at a constant rpm where plug whiskering might be a problem. Somewhere, some how, DA and 3W started the nonsense with the ashless oil recommendation, and it propagated like folklore. Recently, DA retracted their recommendation for ashless oils.
Posted on: 10/8/2011 6:40 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10754440

RE: CM6 Insert Bushing
You can also get an insert at RCextremepower.com Check out the insert on the ignition page below. You'll also need a 14mm tap and the right drill bit. http://www.rcextremepower.net/ignitions.html
Posted on: 10/5/2011 4:51 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10749455

RE: DLE 111 tuning question.
Just had a great day at the field, and put a gallon and a half of fuel through the DLE-111 with the Tillotson carb. It totally fixed the problem with the idle. I tached the engine at 1200 rpm before and after the flight and didn't touch the throttle trim all day. The engine ran great, starts much easier, no dead sticks, and has excellent power - 6900 rpm with a Biela 27x10 using stock mufflers with one inch cut off the down tubes. The strange thing is that the engine now sounds like my 3W-106. If you don't have a spare Tillotson carb, you might try modifying the EMAS carb. Get a carb rebuild kit for a Tillotson HS carb - all the parts fit the EMAS. Remove the welch plug and clean the idle reservoir with brake cleaner. Mix up some epoxy, and fill in the idle discharge port that is closest to the venturi nozzle. Hopefully the gasoline won't eat the epoxy. Install a new welch plug from the rebuild kit and give it a try. You can always drill out the epoxy if you have to.
Posted on: 10/2/2011 4:45 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10745400

RE: 3w 120 TOC
It'll be stronger than a DLE-111, but it is also a very heavy engine.
Posted on: 10/1/2011 4:37 AM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10743260

RE: BOLD PREDICTION: Zenoah will eventually follow FUJI IMVAC down the crapper
[quote]ORIGINAL: thepamster Well, this Lady here would ask, ''What setup''? Open the box, mount engine, fuel up, and go. I have owned several Zenoahs and my current one, G-38 on a 120 Stinger, is over 20 years old and still flying today. The Pamster [/quote] Giant Stingers and Zenoahs....there you have it. It's 1980 all over again...[:D]
Posted on: 9/30/2011 5:45 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10742763

RE: DLE-111 dies at full throttle- HELP!!
I'd put a new screen filter in the carb for sure and perhaps a rebuild kit and a new set of NGK plugs. And Yes, I think it's most likely a carb problem. But, I'm hedging my bet a little with a set of plugs. $20 total in parts should fix you up.
Posted on: 9/30/2011 5:37 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10742747

RE: DLE 111 tuning question.
[quote]ORIGINAL: Jeremymac Yes Egan, It doesn't return to the same idle after it is warmed up. I haven't had to make any changes to the tuning so far. I guess this normal after a few gallons of fuel?    Jmac [/quote] I have the exact same problem with my DLE-111 with about 7 gallons of fuel through it. The idle climbs a lot after a few minutes of flying and it makes spin entries and landings a real pain. I set the idle trim with a tach at 1500 rpm before each flight. If I richen the low end needle, it makes the midrange way too fat. I took apart the carb, removed the welch plug, cleaned all sealant and jet passages with carb cleaner and installed a new welch plug. The engine runs exactly the same as before. I don't see any obvious signs of an air leak - no fuel or oil at any seams, maybe it's an air leak through the front bearing seal, although I don't see any wetness. The engine runs great from idle to full power and has never quit. I thought that perhaps the carb was getting too hot and boiling the fuel, so I replaced the aluminum carb mount manifold with a plastic one from a 3W-106. The engine ran exactly the same as before. One thing I did notice is that the EMAS carb has 4 idle ports, and my 3W-106 Tillotson HS carb has only 3 idle ports. My next experiement is to put on the Tillotson carb. My theory is that the extra idle ports on the EMAS carb cause a lean idle and rich midrange bias. At low throttle opening, the extra idle ports act as air bleeds, so this leans the idle. At mid throttle, all four idle ports provide fuel. Anyway, that's my theory and I''ll test it out to find if this fixes the idle speed-up issue.
Posted on: 9/30/2011 5:25 PM by Author "Diablo-RCU" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10742726