RE: NEED HELP ON MY BIND N FLY HIROBO TOW COBRA AH-1S
Really? You're a beginner and bought a $1500 90 size heli? Best advise is to find someone locally who knows scale 90 size helis for help, I would strongly suggest you NOT try to get this thing going on your own. Not only would it be a significant shame to crash and destroy such a nice heli but the chances of severe bodily harm are high...
Posted on: 7/19/2011 3:32 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10629189

RE: buying a new copter
Do you already know how to fly a ccpm heli? Because you're going to need at least a 450 to lift that.. Have you thought about a quad copter or similar?
Posted on: 7/19/2011 3:30 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10629182

RE: My First Helo Venom Ozone
I'm sorry but saying that the S107 is the best flying micro helicopter goes a bit far unless you've actually flown them all.... I personally don't like the idea of a tail rotor like that instead of using a swash plate like most helis. I've flown helis before that are designed that way and I've found they have a bouncing effect, maybe the S107 doesn't but I've never tried it. I'd really suggest either an eflite or helimax co-axial or even the msr even if it's a bit harder to control.
Posted on: 8/2/2010 2:31 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9904733

RE: Newb has 2 new questions for each thing learned
Well... some good set up tips so far but I will add a couple of things. The swash should be level and don't use trim unless you have to. You should ALWAYS have to add some rudder and cyclic input to keep it straight, this is only on take off and once you get into a hover 4 feet from the ground the left push and tail wanting to swing counter clock wise (viewed from top) is gone. The reasons for the two are as follows: left movement is due to the tail blades pushing the air to the right and therefore the heli to the left, this mostly disappears once you get above a few feet; the second is the heli frame wants to rotate in the opposite direction of the blades, that's why you have tail blades to prevent this rotation but when you first spool up the blades aren't spinning fast enough to accomplish on their own so adding some extra pitch to the blades helps prevent this. Once the head speed on the main and tail blades are higher this also disappears. My suggestion is to keep with the sim but also go through radd's school of rotory flight (google it) and follow the directions, he talks (writes) a bit weird but just follow the steps and you'll get a feel for what the heli will do.
Posted on: 8/2/2010 2:26 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9904726

RE: MCX2
It depends on what you're doing with it. If it's a heli that you plan to keep for a while then there are many upgrades that will improve it's performance. If you're planning on using it as a trainging tool before you move to a single rotor then I'd say leave it stock and save your money for the single rotor.
Posted on: 8/1/2010 2:51 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9902572

RE: 4ch Heli for beginner.
Make sure you read up on radd's school of rotary flight (google it)
Posted on: 7/30/2010 1:31 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9899342

RE: Very Bad Store
[quote]ORIGINAL: Doug47 What a stupendous bore. I wouldn't have returned his money either. The cheap shots at the store by naming them in CAPS expose the real intent. Pray tell, did you not still need the battery ? What was the part number you gave them and what did you get ? The BS lite is flashing. So, the battery you got [i]won't fit[/i], but it was so close that when you picked it up you didn't notice? When you got home though NOW you could suddenly tell it wouldn't fit without removing it from the package ? Hmmm. [quote]Well when I got home [1 hour drive} the battary did not fit.[/quote] How DID you find out that it wouldn't fit by not removing it from the package anyway ? Maybe they're a little ticked at you for treating them like idiots in your eyes, just like the way you're trying to snow us. Nice try. There's more to the story. That hobby shop knows it and so does the 'victim'. [quote]Also Im tring to help other people out.[/quote][sm=72_72.gif] You did. If ever in town I'll go out of my way to buy from them. Doug [/quote] After actually having read the entire thread it is obvious that you did not even carefully read the first post... you should try again. [quote][b]I bought a tx battary from Rc Hobbies and more in winsted ct and i ended up not needing it, so I brought it back for a Refund[/b]. Rc Hobbies and more - would NOT GIVE ME A REFUND. They gave me a store credit.I told them that I wouldn't need anything from them for a long time and that I needed the money that I spent on this battary. [b]Seeing how bad this store is ,i figured that they would say when I did use the store credit that it was TOO OLD and not valid anymore. So i told the owner that I wanted a battary for a Futaba Conquest tx and "" showed him the MODLE number that I coppied down .He gave me one and said that it would work. Well when I got home [1 hour drive} the battary did not fit. [/b]I called and talked to him and he said that he would order one and CALL ME when it came in, [in a few days]. well its been about 2 weeks now, and still NO PHONE CALL. .....DON'T GO TO [ rc hobbies and more ] in Winsted ct. if you want good servicel. I should take them to Small Claims Court, just for wasting all my time and not calling , Like they said they would. [/quote] He did not open the package of the original battery he was returning... he did open the package of the battery he got in exchange and it didn't fit. You seem to think that the first battery he returned and the second battery that did not fit are the same... they are not. As for this entire thread.... many stores will not give you a return on certain items. For instance, you can't return swimwear or underwear, you can't return software unless it's for the EXACT same software (most places won't even allow it). This is nothing new and is to protect the store from fraudulent claims whose cost is just passed on to all other customers. If you buy something with a no return policy then do what most people do, sell it online at a loss. I think the OP was lucky to get even the store credit as well.
Posted on: 7/29/2010 5:27 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9897445

RE: help with my new car (pictures included)
[quote]ORIGINAL: luketheluke The setup procedure isnt working it does the 1 flash for neutral double flash for full acceleration then on the reverse the led light is supposed to go off to show the setup is complete but it doesnt go off, the setup is  for a trigger/wheel contrroler but my controler is a double stick one could this be why? [/quote] Looks like everything is wired correctly. So the set up is as follows: Push button once while in neutral, light flashes once. Go full throttle and push button again, light double flashes. Go full reverse and push button again, light should go out. If it doesn't work then try again after reversing the throttle channel.
Posted on: 11/13/2009 1:38 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9250253

RE: paint removal..?
Regardless of what you may be told, there is no fool proof method of removing paint off a clear polycarbonate (lexan) body. The problem is that any chemical strong enough to remove the paint is going to affect the plastic. Find another source and buy another body. You can always try brake fluid, or the other methods that supposedly work, if you're getting a new body anyway or just keep the current one for bashing.
Posted on: 11/11/2009 11:56 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9247694

RE: Electric Motor not Working
[quote]ORIGINAL: speedracerduck   Hey guys, The motor is ''trying'' to start, just like a car engine on a COLD day on the B4 motor....The buggy moved forward just a little bit!  But now it won't move, just ''trying to start'' again, the BATTERY is fine, since the steering is working very well I recorded a video of the motor trying to start [/quote] You keep saying the battery is fine... ok, prove it. What's the voltage on it when fully charged? Simple question, should be a simple answer. As a note as others have tried to tell you... [u][b]even an almost dead battery can still move the servo but will NOT power the motor. You should know this if you've run these cars before, even 4 years ago. When you come to the end of a run and the car is barely moving because the battery is low you can still steer!!![/b][/u] You can buy a cheap brushed motor for under $20 at the local hobby store. Pretty easy to check if it's the motor. Another easy way to check the motor is to put 3 "C" cell alkaline batteries in series and hook them up directly to the motor. See if the motor turns. If this works then it's DEFINITELY your batteries. I will tell you this though. If the last time you ran these was 4 years ago then it's FAR MORE LIKELY that the batteries are damaged than the motor. This should be simple logic if you've ever used rechargeable batteries before.
Posted on: 11/8/2009 11:54 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9239466

RE: Who here is tried of Electric rc
Well, not that we needed another nitro vs electric thread but... The first thing I'll say is that I have both nitro and electric but due to where i live mostly run my electrics. The thing that really bugs me is that most "hardcore" nitro guys have so many misconceptions about electric.... $400 for 3 lipos hasn't been true for a LONG time. Go to hobby city and get 4 lipos for $100 and you'll be running for 2 hrs+. I personally own enough lipos that I could run for over 10 hours if I wanted to in one sitting... which I rarely ever do. I usually max out in 2-3 hours. For safety reasons I carry around one of those rechargeable booster batteries in my SUV (do a lot of construction work in the middle of nowhere) and I could easily charge 5-6 batteries with it if I ever happened to run out. The thing is basically a little larger than regular car battery and is rechargeable so.... $25 for a gallon of nitro fuel.... $25 for a lipo.... which will give you more run time before it's gone/dead? Since I was a heli guy (both nitro and electric there too) before I was a car/truck guy, I had no additional costs for chargers or power supplies. Beyond the propulsion system, the mechanics on all RC are the same so doing maintenance on the driveline and suspension is no different between the two.
Posted on: 11/8/2009 1:06 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9237018

RE: Lexus IS F
I'm assuming this is the HPI body? The light buckets need to be painted, mostly silver (I'd suggest an anodized silver like from Tamiya) then tape them on the inside of the body. Unfortunately, unlike the Tamiya light buckets which are designed to hold leds in them, the HPI body does not come with a nice led holder. The buckets are mostly for scale looks but can easily be adapted to hold leds.
Posted on: 11/8/2009 12:54 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9237005

RE: Lee's Toyota Tundra build thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: lee172 sounds good, but do you think metallic would mix well with 'flat' colours? the bed and tailgate have been re-primed, just got to scrub the cab a little more.. [/quote] Well the only "flat" is the black which will be covering most of the truck. The silver and red will be accents, I think it will turn out ok. Keep going man.
Posted on: 11/8/2009 12:50 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9236995

RE: e-fliteblademcxcharger
Are the batteries still good? What's their voltage?
Posted on: 11/5/2009 2:55 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9230581

RE: Lee's Toyota Tundra build thread
LOL, well at least it's a hard plastic you paint on the outside instead of a lexan body which paints on the inside so fogging of plastic isn't an issue. I'm thinking of painting mine a combo of metallic red, anodized silver and black.
Posted on: 11/5/2009 11:32 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9230140

RE: New backyard (grass) truck / car suggestion
well 1800mah nicads? of course you're going to get short run times. Try a 5000mah+ lipo and you'll get approx 25-30 min run times.
Posted on: 11/5/2009 12:42 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9229340

RE: TT01 Hopups?
Ok.... I don't recommend anything in the way of chassis upgrades then since it's for looks only, you won't be able to see them. I'd suggest a nice set of wheels w/ either the tamiya or hpi drift accessory kit. Get a body w/ led buckets and a 3racing or hpi led light set. There is also a magnetic holder which means you don't need to put holes in the body and have the body posts poking through.
Posted on: 11/4/2009 10:23 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9229063

RE: aluminum suspension arms?
Are you talking about the A arms or shock tower?
Posted on: 11/4/2009 5:47 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9228323

RE: Need to know what to do to rebuild an older nitro car and engine...im a NOOB
Take pictures, post pictures, someone will tell you what it is. Then, get your hands on a manual and find all the parts you need.
Posted on: 11/4/2009 3:01 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227990

RE: deans?
[quote]ORIGINAL: cenracer1 the connectors on those batteries are designed for helicopters.. I purchased a bunch of these from Hobby City and they came that way.. for car use I cut them off and put on Deans plugs... I'm not sure of the name of them, but EC3 sounds correct.. I think Losi is starting to use them now on some of their electric brushless stuff.. They work but you will have a harder time finding connectors for them at the LHS if needed... [/quote] Connectors are not really designed for a particular application. Sure more heli guys probably use them but that's just because they've been using lipos longer. Connectors are just connectors, you can use any low resistance ones you want to. From the specs I don't believe the EC3 are as good as deans, traxxas or power poles but they are definitely a great improvement over the "tamiya" ones.
Posted on: 11/4/2009 2:17 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227896

RE: lipo balancing question
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mdkanz I know lots of people that have never balanced 2s lipos. [/quote] Many people don't do it... doesn't mean they shouldn't do it. It's really up to each person but think of balancing as preventative maintenance. No two cells are exactly alike and will have slightly different charge and discharge rates. You may not see any problems until you're on your 50th charge but that doesn't mean it's not building up. A balancer costs $20-$30 and doesn't add that much time to charging... the question shouldn't be: why do it? but why wouldn't you do it?
Posted on: 11/4/2009 2:15 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227884

RE: NEED HELP WITH MY 4-TEC
A 200mm body will work but you might need offset wheels.
Posted on: 11/4/2009 11:05 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227544

RE: Lee's Toyota Tundra build thread
very nice. what kind of primer did you use?
Posted on: 11/4/2009 10:52 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227510

RE: New backyard (grass) truck / car suggestion
I'd suggest the 1/10 (actually 1/8) erevo then upgrade to brushless later if you're on a tight budget. 4wd, had that "car" look instead of the monster truck look. can handle grass easily and is 4wd. The 1/16 erevo will be next to useless in mid to long grass, sure it will move but it will not perform well.
Posted on: 11/4/2009 10:48 AM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227500

RE: deans?
the generic term for the connectors is EC3 I believe. If you already know how to solder the most important part is to completely finish one wire and get heat shrink on it BEFORE you even cut the other wire. Doesn't matter which you do first. This is to eliminate the possibility of a short circuit. For traxxas connectors remember not to get any solder past the line or you'll have trouble fitting the tabs back into the housing.
Posted on: 11/3/2009 10:09 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9226525

RE: REc for GOOD rc18 tour car
Some more minis are the sportwerks recoil and xray m18r.
Posted on: 11/3/2009 10:04 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9226515

RE: sim or program cable??
What port does the program cable use? Is it the same as the sim cable? Printer port? USB?
Posted on: 11/2/2009 6:07 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9223311

RE: Tenkin RS Sensored vs. Mamba Max 5600
What class? I'd suggest the 4600 for 4wd and 5700 for 2wd. The Tekin is definitely the better system though.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 6:05 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9223307

RE: LEDs under water?
np, let me know how it works out.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 6:02 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9223299

RE: switch?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Chris_RC The E Firestorm will be more durable, but I would worry about parts support since most LHS's carry Losi and not HPI. [/quote] That's quite the generalization, have you been to every hobby shop in the US? Each hobby shop will be different so check [i]your [/i]local hobby shop before you decide.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 5:13 PM by Author "Druss" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9223167