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RE: OK Cub Diesel
earlwb: the link to Model Engine News was most informative and interesting to read. Thanks, Dzl
Posted on: 9/18/2011 12:11 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10722712
RE: Hand Protection
Several good suggestions in this thread: heavy gloves, electric starters, removing glow igniter from the back. I'm a little surprised no one mentioned tuning the needle only after shutting down the engine. After all, the whole point of all these tips is to remove the hand from the vicinity of the spinning prop. I know it's a little more time consuming, but once properly set a needle usually doesn't need to be touched very often. I was tuning an engine new to me at the field one day using the start, stop, reset needle, start, stop, reset, etc. method and one of the guys' kids said "Dad, don't ever buy one of those engines!" I still fly that plane and engine regularly, and the needle is set just fine, thank you. Good luck, Dzl
Posted on: 4/28/2011 1:59 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10490065
RE: Add ailerons to SIG Senior?
Thank you all for the kind replies and suggestions. I think I will go with John's idea, which is not to mess with a good thing. Dzl
Posted on: 4/20/2011 5:29 AM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10474031
Add ailerons to SIG Senior?
I have acquired a SIG Senior with the no-ailerons wing. Has anyone added strip ailerons to one of these? If so, what size, and what were the results? Thanks in advance for any contributions, Dzl
Posted on: 4/19/2011 4:30 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10473031
RE: refresh my memory please
If you don't vent it, you will have a REAL mess under the cowling when you finally notice things. Don't ask how I know that [8|]. Good luck, Dzl
Posted on: 3/27/2011 7:08 AM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10425576
RE: kerosine heaters???
I use a kero heater in my shop which is attached to my garage. I keep the heater on hand for power outages in the house, but occasionally use it when I want to work in the shop on a very cold winter's day. Since there is so much "ventilation" through the garage door and windows with no storm windows, I never worry about it. But I don't spray any volatile stuff around it, either! Dzl
Posted on: 3/1/2011 8:02 AM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10371909
RE: Windy day plane
It's interesting to see "old hands" note that almost any plane can be flown in the wind. But I remember vividly a time when I was learning to fly my trainer (SIG LT-40), and a full-scale and RC pilot who was helping me said: "The airplane doesn't 'feel' the wind," implying that it was my job as the pilot to navigate through the "ocean of air" in which aircraft operate. Well that's true, but [i]to a novice[/i] it often seems that the wind sure does push the plane around in ways he may not yet be skillful enough to handle! This will be especially true when he/she is trying to learn how to take off and land safelyand without damage to the aircraft. Dzl
Posted on: 1/9/2011 12:06 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10250661
RE: PAW .19
I have a P.A.W. 40 with the Varijet carb. I used it to break in the engine, and it seemed to do just fine. (I subsequently took it off in order put on a control line venturi and needle valve assembly.) I also have a P.A.W. 19 single ball bearing engine with the old square "primitive" carb mounted on a Texaco model which I fly just for fun with a throttle. The carb seems to work pretty well. Good luck with your engines, Dzl
Posted on: 12/9/2010 7:13 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10187473
RE: Do you use after run oil on your diesels?
Got no theory here.... I just use the same thing I use with glow engines: air tool oil. No problems so far. Dzl
Posted on: 11/23/2010 3:07 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10154611
RE: Any alternatives to wheel collars?
For a little different approach, I like to solder a piece of brass tubing onto the axle but extending out about 1/8th inch beyond the end of it. Make sure the tube is filled with solder out to its end. Then drill a small diameter hole through the tube near the end, slide the wheel on the now larger shaft, put a washer on the end, and make a small cotter key to go through the hole at the end of the axle, holding it all on the landing gear. Looks kinda scale in some applications, and is dead solid and very cheap (like me!). You might have to add a washer on the inside to hold the wheel where you want it and/or enlarge the hole in the wheel to make it fit over the larger shaft. Good luck, Dzl
Posted on: 11/22/2010 10:18 AM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10151610
RE: any answers to finding lost airplanes?
If you have made a mental note of where the plane went in (perhaps you had the presence of mind to lay your transmitter down in front of you with the antenna pointed in the direction it crashed?), you can then use an orienteering compass to establish a straight line of search. You can pick one of these up in the sporting goods section of your local Wally World for about 5-6 bucks. It has two arrows on it. You to set an adjustable arrow directing you along the path you want to take while holding the compass so that the magnetic arrow is always pointing north. The trick is to set the adjustable "path" arrow on the compass correctly, then start out from where you set it, never straying from that line of march. You almost surely will have to cut through on an angle with the corn rows in order to maintain your direction accurately. Pay no attention to your "gut feeling" of what direction to go! This should take you within 50-100 feet of the model, which may be on either side of your line. It helps to have a couple of guys on each side of you following along, but spread out some, checking down the rows as you go. Without the compass, we never would have found my last "corn field landing" location. Good luck, Dzl
Posted on: 10/19/2010 1:29 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10078941
RE: Guillows p51 kit build/Rc conversion
Have you considered building in a socket for plug-in gear. That way you will have an option down the line to use the gear over a paved surface and not over turf. Just a thought.
Posted on: 6/16/2010 2:58 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9807201
RE: Maiden take-off? Behind or Besides?
I would think that "whatever you are comfortable with" is all I would feel comfortable with recommending to someone else about where they stand with their new model. However, that being said, it would seem that if one had done an adequate job of doing a thorough taxiing trial before attempting lift-off, he should be able to deal with a maiden flight better from either position. Sometimes a taxi trial ends up with an unintentional lift-off, but a quick throttle reduction can usually deal with it. In the process, you will have learned something about the new model before you actually want to do the full flight. Just my 2 cents.
Posted on: 6/16/2010 2:40 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9807172
RE: Plane to stay in small car ?
An alternative would be a nice foamy such as one from Fancy Foam. They are pretty good sized, will fly 3D or round and round: your choice. Then all you have to do is cart your Tx to the car each morning and store it where it will be OKperhaps one of those insulated bags they have for taking frozen foods home, or even a small cooler. Good luck, Dzl
Posted on: 5/23/2010 7:46 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9754273
RE: moving firewall - Help
The first thing I would do is make a tracing off the plans of the front end, move the tracing back 1/2" and compare the engine and cowl parts to the new arrangement. See how that would affect the doublers (they might taper a bit and cause some problem with the cowl). Also take a look at the consequences for the fuel tank area, landing gear, etc. when things are shoved back. Paper "construction" is always simpler to alter and adjust than the real thing! Good luck, Dzl
Posted on: 4/23/2010 4:33 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9683478
RE: SIG Senior wing joiner problem
Just to finish off this thread in case someone else has this problem in the future: SIG responded quickly and suggested I use magic marker on the dihedral blade to mark the high points, shine a flashlight down the wing slot, then sand off the high spots. I couldn't see anything past 3-4 inches down the wing slot. So, I made a sanding stick the same width as the dihedral blade and tried that. No joy. So then I made a tool from a thin piece of plywood with a "spade" X-acto blade on the end of it. This I worked down the corners of the slot several times. Eventually, after shaking out some junk and running the sanding stick down a few more times, the dihedral blade finally went to the bottom of the slot. The wing halves are now joined (until crash do they part). [:D] Dzl
Posted on: 3/9/2010 6:41 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9568149
RE: SIG Senior wing joiner problem
I have an email in to SIG, but I was hoping to get some more work done on it tonite. Ah, well. As for gluing the wings together, I have a van to transport my stuff to the field which is only about 3 miles from me. So it's no big deal. Thanx for the reply, Dzl
Posted on: 3/7/2010 8:08 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9562623
SIG Senior wing joiner problem
I am assembling a SIG Senior ARF. So far, it's been nothing really unusual, until I went to join the wing halves. I intend to glue them together, but there is still the matter of installing the aluminum dihedral brace which is supposed to slide into pre-built slots in each wing half. It won't go in either one without (in my opinion) WAY too much force. I haven't even got it to fit in them all the way even though I sanded the wing openings a bit with an emory board and the cleaned up the brace itself with a drum sander on a dremel to get rid of some flashing that I thought might be the issue. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, how did you get past it? Thanks for taking the time to look at this postand thanks in advance for any suggestions. Dzl
Posted on: 3/7/2010 4:21 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9562084
RE: Horizon Hobby not posting poor reviews, Bias?
I've seen mixed and negative reviews (among many positive ones) on the Hobby King site. Not that this means anything; there is no way to determine the actual number of reviews that may have been submitted. Dzl
Posted on: 2/28/2010 10:24 AM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9542501
RE: Filling wood grain for paint
Caveat: I've not done this over sanding sealer, so you may have to do some experimenting if you want to try it. What I have used to get a smooth finish is plain old spackling compound mixed with water until a brushable slurry is created. Brush that on, covering everything you will want to paint. Wait for it to dry, then start sanding it all off. What will remain is the mixture which is down in the grain. This will create a LOT of dust, by the way, so you may wish to do it over a sanding box or shopvac which is running. Wear a mask. If you can go outdoors, that's even better. Once you have the job done, hit it with a light coat of primer, being careful not to wash the filler away in the process. If you still have some areas needing attention, repeat the process in those areas. This will work on raw balsa, though you have to be careful not to get the slurry too watery and warp things. Good luck, Dzl
Posted on: 2/12/2010 4:46 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9498898
RE: Painting (airbrushing) over Solartex
It's been a year or two since I painted over solartex, but I seem to recall that it is a good idea to "wash" it a bit to get any residual stuff from the manufacturing process off of the covering. Also, I clear coated mine with Nelson's two-part water based system using the cross-linker additive to make it fuel proof. It seemed to work well and is easy to apply with a foam brush as per the instructions. The foam brush system actually works well enough that I must say I can't spray on a better finish. (Of course, that's not saying much!) Good luck, Dzl
Posted on: 2/1/2010 5:00 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9467621
RE: Small butane torches
I also got the Harbor Freight $10 torch and it works great. My son picked a nice one up at a cooking supply store. Dzl
Posted on: 1/13/2010 11:14 AM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9412214
RE: Titebond Glue
I know of a professional model builder who builds for some VERY picky people and who uses plain Elmer's All-Purpose white glue for everything but laminating, gear blocks, and firewalls. I've been doing the same for years because of a CA aversion. Good luck, Dzl
Posted on: 1/7/2010 8:18 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9396863
RE: Tailwheel Control Rod Options
"Em, reverse em and hand the radio to your hot shot flier" I hear that!!!!!!!!!!!! Dzl
Posted on: 1/4/2010 8:14 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9387298
RE: Tailwheel Control Rod Options
? So the tail wheel servo is slaved to the rudder channel? Or am I missing something? (Other than the brains and good sense I am usually accused of being missing)? Dzl
Posted on: 1/4/2010 7:11 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9387069
RE: Tailwheel Control Rod Options
SeamusG: Do you Y-harness the tail wheel servo to the rudder servo on your Senior? Dzl
Posted on: 1/4/2010 5:36 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9386783
RE: are these mufflers legal?
When factory-muffled engines first appeared on the scene, many of us opted for after-market strap-on mufflers like this one for engines that had been manufactured without any provision for a muffler. One drawback that was pointed out (but that I never saw or experienced) was that it might be possible to warp the cylinder by overthightening the mounting screws when the engine was hot. I don't know if that was a real or imagined problem, though. Dzl
Posted on: 11/30/2009 6:53 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9293034
RE: Thinning Balsarite for film
There is a Balsarite for film and a Balsarite for fabric. When I used it, I would just get the fabric (thicker) stuff and thin it with acetone until it was the consistancy I wanted.
Posted on: 10/16/2009 6:36 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9178799
RE: HOW TO ACHIEVE STRAIGHT LINES OVER THE EDGE?
A question about use. Does one make an exacto cut to make an end which can be started through the slot? Otherwise, don't you have to shove the tool into the edge of the uncut material and risk the chance that you will "bunch" it up? Dzl
Posted on: 9/25/2009 9:54 AM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9122769
RE: HOW TO ACHIEVE STRAIGHT LINES OVER THE EDGE?
Those who have success with the HH tool apparently all say "It takes a litle getting used to...." I have one and gave up on it a couple of years ago. It looks like it should work just fine, I just failed to "git 'er done." I usually couldn't get the right "start" on the cut I was trying to make. On the few occassions when I did, I have to say that it worked well. What is the trick? Dzl
Posted on: 9/24/2009 6:37 PM by Author "Dzlstunter"
in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9121252
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