RE: What's the proper method of a barrel roll?
Horace, glad to see someone else who really knows how to do a barrel roll. Naturally, you were an Air Force IP. I was a Tweet IP for 4 years back in the 1960s. No one even knows what a section line is any more. Man, that was a lifetime ago.
Posted on: 8/31/2012 6:56 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11213113

RE: Tower .61 carburetor question
The remote needles for the Evolution .61 and Magnum .61 engines will work well, too.
Posted on: 8/29/2012 8:33 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210256

RE: Flutter and air balancing
No telling what can be twisting, but you already have the answers. To sum up: 1. Add some flying wires. For the lightest weight, use lightweight weed eater list. 2. Drill or cut a big hold in your counterbalances and add some weight forward of the hinge line. As has been mentioned, disconnect the elevator from the pushrod and add weight until it doesn't droop.
Posted on: 8/21/2012 9:56 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200949

RE: servo on a float
Bluebird standard size servos are waterproof. I have tested it. I flipped a Neptune flying boat upside down and got the servos wet. I had a Hitech 425, standard size servo, and a Bluebird standard size (I forget the number) under water until the rescue boat could get out there. When I opened up the Hitech, it was full of water. The Bluebird was completely dry. I happened to have another new Bluebird, still in the bubble pack. I opened it up, hooked it up to a receiver and battery and dunked it in a glass of water. I ran the servo back and forth for a couple of minutes, then checked it. Dry inside! I don't know about the smaller servos, but I use Bluebird standards on my .46-.61 sized seaplanes. I also love Corrosion-X. I spray everything. Take the receiver case off and spray the PC board. Spray connectors and the switch. Here's another trick. You know the bubble pack that covers spinners. It sort of looks like the rear part of a canopy. I use it to cover aileron servos on the bottom of the wing and on floats. See photo of read plane, a Danish HM-1 and on the blue floats. I did kill a couple of servos flying early on from brackish water in a bayou here in the Florida panhandle. Now I use Corrosion-X, Bluebird servos and don't go near water with more that 0% salt. Salt water is bad, bad, bad.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 7:35 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198583

RE: Four Star 60
I flew my 2 4*60s with an OS .91FX and a Magnum .91XLS, both with an Ultra Thrust tuned muffler that added over 1,000 rpm to a 14-6 prop. Great combination. Mine were kit bashed into a Kawasaki Ki-61 Tony. By the way, moving the gear to the wing made the takeoffs very straight and easy with little or no correction. I could just pop the power and go. I should have installed retracts. After I bashed the first one, the tail came off, I bought the orange one and remade it into the OD Tony with the Magnum. Note the bracing wires on the stab!
Posted on: 8/17/2012 8:47 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196838

RE: Elevons backwards
I have flown several planes with elevons with my JR radios. I have used numerous different JR radios and never had a problem after the servos were plugged in correctly. First thing to check is are the servos matched. I have found that servos from different manufacturers or one that is reversed messes things up. As I recall, your servo positions are correct, aileron-right, elevator left. I would check your manual to be sure. Hold up elevator and set the reverse selection on the elevator channel to get the left elevon to go up. Look and see if the right elevon is also up. If not, reverse the aileron channel. Check the ailerons. They should be working correctly. The thing to remember is that the left side is only changed by the elevator functions (reversing, sub trim, end point). The right side is controlled by the aileron functions.
Posted on: 8/15/2012 3:32 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194869

RE: why are wing tips UP , Down , or flat ?
Wing tips can make a difference you can notice, especially if you like to experiment or make a plane fly better. Several years ago a buddy of mine constructed a pseudo wind tunnel and tested wing tips. He had seen me flying a plane with end plates and decided to test tips. His wing was constructed so he could attach several different kind of tips. He had thread attached to the leading edge so you could watch the flow. His idea was to note the formation of and the amount of the wing vortex. His best tip was an end plate. Second best was just a flat rib on the end, followed by a rounded block, the Stick, swept tip and finally, the rounded, 1930's style was the worst. I reported this when I wrote a column for the old, print edition of R/C Report magazine. I also mentioned that my flight test with end plates indicated that they would lower the stall speed, make spins harder to enter and lower the landing speed. Some of my readers emailed me that after reading my column, they tried plates and confirmed my results. A variation of end plates can be used to help increase or decrease dihedral effect. It is a known fact that dihedral will cause a plane to roll in the direction of applied rudder. Conversely, anhedral will cause the plane to roll opposite to the rudder. I used a flat wing (do dihedral), .32 powered Little Stick I had at the time for the test. In the air, it would roll with rudder due to the high wing location. My test was to see if a downward only plate would cure the roll coupling. I cut 2 plates from 1/8" lite ply. The top of the plate was flush with the top of the airfoil and the bottom was 1-1/2" below the wing. I figured that 1-1/2" was more than enough. I also marked off 1/4" lines so I could trim the plate an equal amount on each side at the field. The plates were attached with screws. At the field, I cranked up, took off and trimmed. I then did a flat turn and knife edge. In both maneuvers, the plane rolled opposite to the rudder, indication that 1. the plates were acting like anhedral and 2. the plates extended too far below the wing tip. After a few trims and flights, I recall that at about 3/4" below the wing, the roll coupling was pretty much eliminated, making knife edge and flat turns easier. The photos show the Little Stick with and without the plates. The plates are the original size which was much too large.
Posted on: 8/10/2012 11:47 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11188394

RE: over heated engine
I've owned a .91FX and it will turn some rpm. I've run 12" props on it with an Ultra Thrust tuned muffler. If your engine knocked and quit very hot, you are running it way too lean. An engine will lean out in the air due to ram air in the intake and g forces, so you always need to set it slightly rich on the ground. I like mine to leave a little smoke trail in the air at the first of the flight. After 3 or 4 minutes, the engine leans out enough so the smoke trail is gone. I recommend an OS #8 plug and some Omega 10% castor blend fuel. If you really want to go, try a Jett tuned muffler and a 12-6 APC. Just don't run it over lean.
Posted on: 8/10/2012 11:25 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11188364

RE: WING ANHEDRAL
Unless it's scale, I out anhedral in all my high wing planes. They fly great. 1. Take any low wing plane with a straight wing and dihedral and flip it over. What you get is a high wing plane with anhedral. 2. Generally speaking, 3 things affect roll due to yaw on an airplane. YES, I HAVE BUILT AND FLOWN ALL OF THESE. a. Wing vertical location: Low wing, mid wing, high wing b. Dihedral angle: positive dihedral, no dihedral (flat wing), negative dihedral, also called anhedral c. Sweep: sweep back, no sweep, sweep forward. 3. The following will produce ROLL IN THE DIRECTION OF RUDDER DISPLACEMENT. a. High wing location (Trainer, Sticks) b. Dihedral (Trainers, sailplanes) c. Sweep back (Some pattern planes) 4. The following will produce no roll, given the wing is really at the center of the fuselage a. Mid wing b. Flat wing c. No sweep, straight wing 5. The following will produce ROLL OPPOSITE TO THE RUDDER. a. Low wing location. b. Anhedral c. Sweep forward. Rules of thumb: a. High wing location is about equal to 3 degrees of dihedral on both sides (or 6 degrees if you are measuring by holding one side flat). Likewise, a low wing location is about equal to 3 degrees of anhedral. b. 1 degree of dihedral is about equal to 5 degrees of sweep. The problem is that most planes have a combination of these. A Stick with a flat wing, like an Ultra Stick, will still roll with the rudder due to the high wing location. What you are looking for is for the plane to be aero neutral with rudder. No pitch, no roll, just skid. Use 3 degrees each side and your plane will fly a whole lot better. Inside loops will be the same, outside loops will be great and rolls will be more axial. It makes knife edge and 4-point rolls much easier.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 4:00 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184777

RE: Skyraider Mach 1 and FS52AR engine?
Your Magnum .52FS will be perfect. I have owned and flown that combination and can vouch for it. I have taught numerous people how the fly RC and, while the Mach I is not a self leveler like a Sig Kadet, it is an excellent flier. A few years back, a buddy picked up 2 of the original Sky Raider Mach I's (before they went to the basket weave covering) for a good price and gave me one. I built it as a float plane and used the Mag .52FS. Excellent combination. I finally grew tired of it and gave it to another seaplane flier (less the engine, of course) who had crashed his seaplane. I had 2 of the Magnum .52 FS engines and both were excellent. I used the pair of them on a few twins since they were so reliable for me. Hobby People and Global hobbies has excellent warranty service on the engines. I managed to bash a Grumman Widgeon twin in the water. Some time later, on another twin, the bearings started to get noisy. I shipped then to Global Services who rebuilt both engines and shipped them back to me at no cost. That's hard to beat.
Posted on: 7/31/2012 9:26 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11175914

RE: Como .50
Here's the old Super Tigre low speed needle method. It does take 3 hands or some help unless you have the throttle hooked up. 1. Hook a 8-10" long piece of fuel tubing up to the carb nipple 2. Screw the low speed needle closed. 3. Put a T-pin in the carb throat and pull the carb closed. This leaves a very small gap, approximately idle size. 4. While holding the carb lever to keep the T-pin captured. blow into the fuel tubing and slowly open the low end needle. 5. Put your ear down near the carb and when you hear the first hiss of air, stop opening the carb low end needle That's it, low end set. As for the high end, open that needle 3 turns and crank. Leave the glow ignitor attached and rev to full power and slowly lean out the mixture. Leaving the battery attached to the plug insures that if 3 turns is too much, the engine won't quit rich. Once you get the top end set, go back and check the low end. Your engine more than likely has old oil congealed on the inside of the carb, reducing the clearances. As you run it more, this will wash away and you'll need to lean out both hi & lo ends somewhat.
Posted on: 7/20/2012 4:27 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11162917

RE: Big Stik Low Wing Mod
If you are worried about the tangs being on the wrong side, try this. 1. Buy some 1/8" birch ply, not lite ply. 2. Trace the root rib & tang forward of the dihedral brace 3. Cut out two new half root ribs & tangs and cut off the old tang. 4. Glue the half ribs together. 5. Epoxy them to the old ply root rib forward of the dihedral brace slot. 6. Glue scrap 1/8" or 1/4" to the rear of the rib aft of the dihedral brace slot. 7. If the dihedral brace isn't set for dihedral, cut in 3 degrees on each side. This amount will stop the opposite direction roll with rudder. 8. Join wing halves. Use 30-minute epoxy on the dihedral brace and wing roots.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 1:57 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146759

RE: Centering dual aileron servos?
acdii, With a DX8 you should have no trouble at all. That radio has a ton of capability. Don't hesitate to use it. Set a Flaperon Wing Type. The right wing servo plugs into the aileron channel. The left wing servo plugs into the flap/aux1 channel. I use a different color zip-tie on the aileron extension and the servo lead, like red for the right servo and aileron channel and blue for the left servo and flap channel. Using color matching, I can plug them in correctly every time. Use Subtrim for the 2 channels to center each servo individually. The TRVL ADJ will set the travel. I find it easiest to go to ELEV-FLAP mix and set both sides to 100%. Hold some back stick and set the up side, then hold some forward stick and set the down side. Now hold in full up and use TRVL ADJ to adjust each side to the same movement using each different channel. Hold full down and set the down movement the same way. Since both ailerons (flaps) deflect the same direction in flaperon mode with elevator, it's easy to match them up. If you don't want to use flaperons or spoilers, you can go back to ELEV-FLAP mix and dial it back down to zero. Drop me a PM if you need any more help.
Posted on: 7/2/2012 4:21 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140412

RE: magnum 91fs rpm ?
Scotty, Do you fly with the Eglin club? I switch back and forth flying there and at Holly Field. I have a Mag .91. I had it on a Ultra Stick 60, but swapped it for a Tower .75 2-stroke. I've had several Magnums and they ran well. I now have it on a Douglas Skyraider, but haven't flown it in a good while. If you're out at Eglin, look me up and we'll talk Magnum 4-strokes. You can't miss me. I'm over age, over weight and out of step. I also were a red ball cap and usually a red polo shirt.
Posted on: 6/29/2012 4:19 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137065

RE: outlaw extreme flight with os 46ax
Check the weight of the OS .46LA compared to many .35-.36 size engines. We used to say that the best .25-sized sport engine was the OS .40LA. The LAs are light weight and plenty powerful for a .32-.36 sized plane. They don't have to be tuned until they are max lean, they're very reliable and they turn a bigger prop, if needed. When you build an ARF with a larger engine, finish it except for the elevator and rudder servos, which are normally pretty close to the CG. Check the CG, and if it is nose heavy, mount one or both servos on the rear fuselage. It's not hard. Cut a hole for the servo body, CA a small piece of 1/8 ply underneath each end, drill for the mounting screws. You'll need a couple of servo extensions. Tie the servo lead connector and extension together or use heat shrink so they don't come loose. Tie a prop nut or other weight to a string and the servo leads to the other end. Drop the weight in through the hole and pull the servo lead through. Screw the servo in place and use a 2-56 rod, threaded on one end for your pushrod. Yikes!!! I didn't realize it was a delta. No fuselage. I still say OS .46LA
Posted on: 5/24/2012 3:30 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093536

RE: JR Radio programming
In the US, there were 2 versions of the 8103. I had one of each. In the early model, you had to use the procedure detailed above. The later version saved the trim automatically. If you don't have a TRIM MEMORY entry on your menu, you have the later model that automatically saves the trim for each model.
Posted on: 4/13/2012 7:41 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11040965

RE: Big Stick 60 Mods in the planning stages
All of the Big Sticks tend to come out nose heavy. My method is to build the plane without the rudder and elevator servos, then check the CG. I normally just use the main spar. If the plane is nose heavy, I move one or both servos to the rear. I put the elevator servo on the left side and the rudder servo on top the fuselage and use a pull-pull set-up. You might also consider converting to a tail dragger configuration to save the forward weight of the nose gear assembly. 3 degrees of anhedral on each side will also make the plane fly better, just like a low wing plane with dihedral. I've flown many high-shoulder wing planes with anhedral. No more roll with rudder.
Posted on: 4/6/2012 10:34 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11030813

RE: Engine mounting angles, how to set up a twin
this Twin Forum for "Ed_Moorman" that's Ed underscore Moorman for my old posts. Drop me a PM... so I couldn't hear the engines that well. After around 7 minutes, Mark said, "Ed
Posted on: 3/17/2012 11:50 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11004162

RE: avistar mods
Nice looking mod to your Avistar. Take your plane up, fly straight & level and slowly add in some rudder. The plane will roll in the direction of the rudder. This is due to the high wing location on the fuselage. What you need is 3 degrees of anhedral on both sides to compensate from the wing location. I've done several planes this way and it'll let you fly knife edge and point rolls without aileron correction. Works great on Sticks. A trick to cure the roll without cutting the wing apart is to add downward only end plates. You can make the plate from lite ply. Cut it even with the top of the airfoil, but extend 3/4"-1" below the airfoil. Hold it to the tip with a couple of servo screws.
Posted on: 2/22/2012 2:14 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10971075

RE: GP Easy Sport, help
Mike, In my opinion, a lot of the .40-.46 sized sport ARFs are built to balance correctly with an OS .40-.46LA, plain bearing engine. And the correct balance is never even close to being tail heavy. This, I think, is to keep new fliers and second plane fliers from getting in trouble. With a ball bearing .46-.55-.61, most all do tend to come out nose heavy. For this reason, I tend to build/assemble the plane without the elevator and rudder servos. I check the CG and, if necessary, move one or both these servos to the rear fuselage near the tail. Usually, moving 2 servos to the rear fixes the CG problem without any weight any weight added. Most Sticks are like this, I feel. Since you are an experienced flier, moving a couple of servos to the rear fuselage should be no problem. I don't even make a fancy mount. I cut a hole for the servo body, drill 1/16" holes for the servo screws, harden the holes with this CA and mount the servo in the balsa sheeting. I do plenty of snaps, spins squares and knife edge loops with Sticks and have yet to have a servo mount fail. I do prefer a top-of-the-fuselage mount for a digital rudder servo with a pull-pull set-up.
Posted on: 2/16/2012 9:11 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10961626

RE: Engine Selection for TF .60 Big Stik
It depends on what of performance you want. I've had Big Sticks and Ultra Sticks. On one I had a Mag .91FS. It it, in my opinion, not enough. A buddy had one with an OS .61FX and it was OK. I think the ST .75 is the best choice. My present Ultra Stick 60 has a Tower .75 and a friend's Big Stick has a GMS .76. Both have plenty of power. I do recommend you install everything except the rudder and elevator servos and check the CG. Sticks tend to come out nose heavy. I usually end up mounting those 2 servos in the rear, the rudder servo on top the fuselage and the elevator servo on the side.
Posted on: 2/3/2012 1:52 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10942292

RE: twin tips
killing one engine. Twins are double the fun. You need to try one. Ed Moorman 25 twins and counting
Posted on: 1/21/2012 10:07 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10919987

RE: twin seamaster engine size?
PeterC, Back when RC Report was a print magazine and I wrote a monthly column, my flying buddy, Carl "Flaps" Laffert, I did an experiment on out thrust. My test plane was a Goldberg Tiger 2 (.46 size). We added 2 nacelles and covered over the engine compartment. Power was 2 OS .46 AX's. The nacelles were built with 8 degrees of out thrust. Total weight-8.5 lbs. I realize that 8 degrees looks huge and most people would think that you'd lost a large amount of forward thrust. I did the math and the cosine of 8 deg. is .99027, meaning you have a tad over 99% of your forward thrust. I confirmed this in flight to the best of my ability. For testing, once the plane was trimmed and I had gotten used to it, I filled the left tank 50% full and the other, all the way. Then I cranked and took off and flew my usual aerobatic flight. The idea was to see how out thrust helps without knowing when the engine will quit. When the left engine quit, I didn't notice anything except a loss of forward speed. No yaw, no nothing. Next, the right tank was filled half way and the left all the way and the test repeated. Same results. Out thrust worked great. At a later date, I built a Twin Stick ARF, also with 2 OS .46 AXs and 8 deg. out thrust. It turned out a pound lighter at 7.5 lbs. It would easily do any acro I wanted on a single engine. I will admit, the looks of 8 deg. out thrust will scare you, but after several planes using this amount, I am convinced.
Posted on: 1/20/2012 11:34 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10918811

RE: Lets see YOUR crazy design
This one isn't too wild, but since there is already a canard, I'll show it. We call it the CROCANARD, which is a contraction for Crocodile Canard. As you can see, it is a canard, biplane with dihedral and anhedral, giving it an "X-wing" look. It turned out to be a good flying plane, but it took a lot of work. It was built by my flying buddy, Carl "Flaps" Laffert with design help from me. I was the pilot. It always flew great, but the take off and landing were hair-raising. You always set the canard at a few degrees positive relative to the wing. This is so the canard stalls first. If the wing stalls first, the plane pitches up and you are done for. The Croc has no rudders, only nose wheel steering. I've flown planes like this before, but I didn't realize that the nose would lift so soon. It's a good thing we fly from an old Navy runway that is about 300 feet wide. Once the power comes in, the plane is on its own until lift off. Scared the you-know-what out of me on the first flight. We added more weight to the nose. Still didn't help. Flaps moved the gear back into the wing. This put a large amount of force on the nose gear. Still didn't help. We were at a loss until Flaps came up with a forward rudder. He attached a piece of lite ply to the nose gear strut. This actually allowed me to steer the Croc on take off. After this mod, it was like any other plane. The extra weight on the nose gear meant it didn't bounce on landing.
Posted on: 12/26/2011 10:24 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10876733

RE: What size StiK?
I've had many Sticks in my years of RC flying (over 41), Sweet Stick, Little Stick, Joss Stick, Big Stick, Ultra Stick, Wild Stik, Giant Stick, Bipe Stick, Twin Stick and several home built Sticks with any number of wings. In my opinion, it is the best overall design in RC history. You cannot go wrong with one. The basic design of a rectangular, symmetrical (or nearly) airfoil, shoulder mounted wing with a simple box fuselage with reasonably good sized control surfaces, hits the sweet spot of sport flying. It can be set up to be as easy to fly as a trainer and also set to fly like a wild fun fly plane. The power can be anything, 2-stroke, 4-stroke, electric, gas, it doesn't, the plane will fly and fly well. They handle overpowering very well, but can cruise along with a small engine. I used a Big Stick 40 for an engine test and break-in plane once. I had 16 different engines on it before I wore it out and gave it away. The Great Planes, fiber filled engine mount looked like Swiss cheese. Sticks handle any kind of weather: calm, windy, gusty, sprinkling rain and dark, if you put some lights on them. OS engines are great, but expensive. I have several which I love. I also have had other brands on my Sticks. Magnum engines run well. In the .46 size class, the JBA .56 is a sleeper (built in a .46 case). It turns props as well as an OS .55AX, at least on my test bench, and costs a lot less. For the 60-sized Sticks, I like a .75 or .91 2-stroke. .91 4-strokes do not have the same pull as a .91 2-stroke or even the Tower .75. Both size (.46 & .61) are great airplanes. I would shoot for more power and learn the throttle back until you can handle it. It's hard to beat taking off, rotating 90 degrees and climbing straight up with your .91 powered Stick. Mount the servos in the rear and balance on the main spar or a little behind. The ARFs do come out nose heavy.
Posted on: 12/22/2011 2:00 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10871913

RE: Need some ideas on putting balsa on foam wings.
Try [b]Duck vinyl flooring tape[/b] from Lowe's. It weighs next to nothing and sticks well. You do need to weight the core down in the shucks overnight for a good bind. You can carefully remove and replace if you haven't used much pressure.
Posted on: 11/27/2011 9:26 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10831207

RE: OS .75 AX vs. OS .61 SF ABC
I've had 2 OS .61SFs, 1 ABN & 1 ring, and also a .46SF ABN. Both ABN OSs had the liners peel. I still have the OS .61SF ring and have used it in at least a dozen airplanes. I would recommend a castor blend fuel in the ABN engines. I haven't had any trouble with my OS engines after I started using castor. I also set for a slight smoke trail after takeoff. The 75AX is a horse. I don't own one, but I've seen them. Don't think you need a small 12" prop or even a 13-6. It will turn a 14" prop just great with tons of thrust.
Posted on: 11/23/2011 1:53 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10825966

RE: OS 46AX engine test
I've had 4 OS .46AXs and still have 2 of them. Outstanding engines. It sounds to me like it is too wet when you start it. I hand start all my 2-strokes and have never needed a starter on the AXs. Choke your engine as you normally do and turn the prop so the piston it up against compression where you normally would flip start it. Hook up the glow ignitor and take the spinner with your right fingers and snap it backwards. The piston will go down, then back up and hit compression as if to start backwards. Since the cylinder is a little wet from the prime, it will fire prematurely and start forwards. If you don't have a spinner, spap the prop backwards. I use a glove. In no case should you pull the prop through compression and top dead center. To do so will cause it to fire backwards and attempt to get your finger. Set the high end needle to peak and back off 4 clicks or more. Idle down and time 30 seconds, then pop the throttle to full power. 1. If the engine rumbles and blows smoke, it is too rich. a. Close the low end down 1/8 turn and try again. b. Keep doing this until you can go from idle to full power without and stumbling. c. At the end of your adjustment you may need to turn the low end adjustment only 1/16 turn. d. It is better to be slightly rich than to be a little lean on the low end. e. As fuel burns down in your tank, the engine will lean out slightly and you don't want it to overheat and kill a glow plug. 2. If the engine coughs and spits, it is too lean. a. Open the low end adjustment 1/8 turn and try again b. Keep doing this until you can go from idle to full power without and stumbling. c. At the end of your adjustment you may need to turn the low end adjustment only 1/16 turn. d. It is better to be slightly rich than to be a little lean on the low end. 3. This takes a while so don't be rushed. 4. I use 10% Omega, castor blend for my OS engines. It is my opinion that the ABN, nickel plated OS sleeves need some castor oil for long life. 5. I like the OS A3 plug. It is now called the OS #6. 6. An 11-5 is my preferred prop for sport flying on my OS .46AXs. It revs up good and pulls well.
Posted on: 11/15/2011 2:47 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10813713

RE: GAF NOMAD
PT21Flyer, I remember seeing your Sr Falcon at one of the float flies at Winchester. Really nice looking plane. Great color scheme and finish. I like how you cowled the engines. I also like the 3-piece wing. Many people just consider the Falcons to be out-of-date trainers from many years ago. They actually have a semi symmetrical airfoil that was close to symmetrical so it is good for acro. It has a built-up, airfoiled stab and a thin, sleek fuselage. I've attached some pictures I took at the meet back in 2005.
Posted on: 11/12/2011 2:58 PM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10808837

RE: HB .61 w/ perry carb kicking my......
Perry carbs are known to be very sensitive to any trash in the fuel line. They recommend a very fine, in-line fuel filter.
Posted on: 10/9/2011 9:43 AM by Author "Ed_Moorman" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10756206