RE: A4 Skyhawk build
Wow, I'm amazed you have all the pieces! Humpty Dumpty be dam#ed! You might have found your future, most favorite "everyday flyer" sport jet. :)
Posted on: 5/20/2013 3:39 AM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516829

RE: KingTech Service Center
Hi Dirk, I'm a previous Jetcat and current Wren owner/operator, been flying turbines for about eight years now. I really like what I see with the Kingtech stuff. Thank you for the reply! PS, I still have what's left of a case of "Mobile Jet Oil II", probably 8 cans left and I've used this with my Jetcat and Wren engines with no issues what so ever. Are you aware of any sort of incompatibility with this brand and the KingTech engines? Specifically I'd probably be looking at the 140K. In the future I'd prefer to move forward with the newer synthetic 2 stroke oils you guys sell and recommend for toxicity (or lack there of) compared with turbine oil.
Posted on: 5/20/2013 1:03 AM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "KingTech Turbines International"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516779

RE: A4 Skyhawk build
OMG I'm so sorry. I know what you mean about airplane loss - I hadn't had a crash in 13 years and badly damaged one of my big prop warbirds a few months ago due to pilot error - I clipped a barrier at the end of a runway with my wing tip on a low strafing pass. Completely my fault. Your A-4 was the nicest and most unique example I'd seen of it's kind and size. The effort was stunning and really showcased some history in the type along side of your talents. Even though what happened has happened, your efforts are still very worthy of appreciation by those of us who appreciate these things!
Posted on: 5/19/2013 11:36 AM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516153

RE: Ideas for illiminating tip stall, or undersireable wing drop upon stall.
Good comments on checking lateral balance and such. That's the first place to check. But the wing still stalls akwardly, correct? Before trying to induce more stalls in different parts of the wings with stall strips, I would suggest trying to tame a stall overall by another wing mod (since you've already modded it once, what's another mod?? :) ). You mentioned that you added crow, and that's one way to try to force the wing center section to stall first but you still have some sporty behavior it seems. Lateral balance, longitudinal balance, control deflections checked.. it's time to try something else. The first thing that popped out at me was that you extended the wing length. One thing to consider is that when designing aircraft, there are many competing and complicating factors in aerodynamics that steer engineers to do what they do. Some of the more basic choices are wing planform (swept, straight, tapered, delta) and along with planform basics we also have airfoils, blended airfoils, washout, leading edge radius modifications, flex patterns, etc. Then we have weight and wing loading. And it goes on and on but those are basics. Each of these choices can have drastic effect on lift and drag in different phases of flight, stall behavior, etc. So you were entered into the game when you added wing span. I know you wanted more wing area, but by adding wing length you also changed the wing planform by increasing aspect ratio and reduced the wing tip chord. A swept and tapered wing with a high aspect ratio and a narrow wing tip chord by definition stalls at the tip first. This is an elemental behavior of this type of planform. BV probably designed the Maverick with the smallest tip chord he could get away with while retaining good handling. He probably was taking advantage of the efficiencies that higher aspect ratio wings enjoy (reduced drag) and was also able to squeeze in a little bit of sweep without hurting the stall behavior too much (wing sweep in model airplanes is mostly a stylistic or CG placement treatment only, it usually takes away from sub sonic control / performance). One idea is to add some wing fences - a-la Mig 17. This will help tame spanwise flow around the wing tips and probably delay the stall out there by a few miles an hour. The main feeling I get however for a more permanent fix to this dilemma is this: You could add a drooped leading edge cuff from 1/2 span outward. It's essentially something like a small dog tooth. The leading edge will increase in chord at the dog tooth and also provide camber so that the stall in the outer wing area will occur at a much higher angle of attack from half span outward as compared to the wing root. As a benefit, with a swept wing, if your root stalls first you will get a natural nose pitch down moment to aid in recognition and rapid recovery before the model is in a deep stall. Though at a greater cost in time/effort/high speed drag than a quick lateral balance/CG balance/Elevator deflection mod fix, a drooped outboard leading edge mod is probably the most SURE FIRE fix. Since you have turbine power, I generally don't think you have to worry about top speed being too badly effected by a leading edge droop mod and the extra wing area and stall protection it will bring will get you want you originally wanted with more wing area. Dogtooth: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leading-edge_extension http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dog-tooth Leading edge cuff http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leading_edge_cuff http://arc.aiaa.org/doi/abs/10.2514/3.46559?journalCode=ja For $25 this is the best deal in the business if you are messing around with modifying or designing model airplanes (don't spend $100 at Amazon...) This book will show you how to do these things on model airplanes and how to stay away from a bad mod or fix one. Not construction advice, more of what to build to make a model fly well. How to build - you already have that figured out. http://www.airagestore.com/books/planes/basics-of-model-aircraft-design.html
Posted on: 5/18/2013 6:47 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515553

RE: Does anyone recognize this Bobcat!!!!!!
Imagine that, a SCAM might be going on at RCU. Say it ain't so! txshan130, aren't you glad you did your home work??!! Achilles, glad you could shed some light on the cockroach operation. Well done. Could it be a coincidence? sure... sure it could. I wouldn't bet a red cent on it though if it were my red cent.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 7:40 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514816

RE: Screws on Canopy VS Glue
I can't think of a situation with a scale jet that screws would work as most canopies attach from inside the frame. I'm sure there are exceptions. On a sport model I have often seen "gloved type" canopies where the canopy forms and blends into the fuselage area - and it can be screwed in to the fuse area easily. The solution to avoiding the well known "Butt Ugly Screw Syndrome (BUSS)" is to use small screws. I've done this on a 82" warbird - it is a "mostly" scale Ta-152 and the canopy attaches as a single piece with canopy frames "painted on" the vaccu formed canopy and it looks great from a few feet away. while I would never consider this a decent type of canopy for a true scale model it works for the "mostly scale" bird and I did not feel like sealing in my partially completed cockpit as it was still a work in progress - so I indeed used screws to attach it. When using screws you have to watch for stress areas and cracking in the plastic. As you know plastic will expand and shrink in different temperatures more than the stout fuselage structure. I've mounted several small screws, the flat head flush mount BVM miniature "flat head panel" screws. I actually went through the trouble of mildly counter sinking the plastic ever so slightly to better accept the miniature screws though it's not a true flush mount, that would not be strong enough in this case. I used many more screws than normal to allow for the reduced strength of the smaller screws and slightly counter sunk attachments but they are quite easily concealed and spread the load across much more of the plastic mating area due to the screw count. Standard deal, remove screws after initial fitting, wick a dab of thin CA in the mount area to toughen up the wood/glass/etc drill area and re attach after dry time for a solid mount. I applied touch up paint on the black screw heads to match the camouflage pattern and it's a push to see the screws from any distance at all. I think these may be the screws but maybe not - the ones I have are TINY http://shopbvmjets.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=33&products_id=138&zenid=upfga74nopp7m9dm0mqdiv6mn3
Posted on: 5/17/2013 4:41 AM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514006

RE: Pics of the latest, heavy duty pipe from Fly Eagle Jets...
Guys I hear ya. It's frustrating to me to sit by and watch. I should have just kept my moth shut. I mean no disrespect to anyone who has lost a jet. I think the pipe failures have been a long time issue though, haven't they? What chaps me most however is when people leave the hobby or their motivation to stay in jets is ruined when they are put in these types of situations though bad product or product that was bad previously but is then promised to be "improved" and yet it is still unsatisfactory. I guess we are all test pilots with our wallets and our own personal liability so we need to choose very wisely. At the end of the day anything can fail, but certain things have been trending more than others.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 6:20 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513731

RE: Pics of the latest, heavy duty pipe from Fly Eagle Jets...
I'm not shocked or surprised at the pipe at all. But I have to ask - how did this guy find out that a jet he wanted was even made by Fly Eagle if he hasn't also had the resources and opportunity to see all the exploded pipes and such plastered everywhere on the internet? Have guys in this position ever looked at all the online comments about the pipes from those ARF's? Or do guys buy their products from black and white print ads in the back of magazines? Then do they write a snail mail letters to the manufacturer asking for a catalog? And then do they send a self addressed stamped envelope with payment so they can be mailed back a receipt and letter confirming estimated shipment? I mean, who out there with the wherewithal to order and construct and fly some of these jets also doesn't have the eye time on threads complaining about all the pipe collapses? And then would figure it would be a low risk affair want to risk it? Sorry for the rant. I'm not trying to single anyone out, but it seems like this is a constantly revolving set of posts these days but not a sealed fate affair - Using the cheap included pipes on these things seems like trying to justify using an idle crack pipe on the coffee table because we don't want to waste the resource of having to throw away a brand new shiny crack pipe with two factory supplied rocks ready to smoke. Don't smoke crack pipes in your jets!
Posted on: 5/16/2013 4:18 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513593

RE: How to Correct Measured Thrust for Density Altitude?
I see some folks have been agitated by this thread. I for one think it's a really cool idea to formulate a "calculator" of sorts for turbojet engine performance in a variety of density altitudes. For one, it's an interesting set of data for those who care to know - secondly, it can help folks decide what engine might be a better choice for where they fly, not only what they fly. Not all of us (hardly any of us) fly at sea level on a 15 degree C/59 degree F day where most of the thrust numbers are adjusted to "sell" us at! Twenty years ago I could have quoted a lot of industry calculations for various forms of power plants like pure turbojets and also turbofans. Those days are gone, I passed the course and dumped the data since I'm not designing jet engines! I think right now it's probably pretty easy to "generalize" that our engines, no matter what the manufacturer, are pretty similar. We all are using similar fuels with about 4-5% oil mix and are using centrifugal flow single stage turbojets. The biggest variable seems to be in the design of wheels where some engines put out a lot higher exhaust speed than others and I'm not sure how that will compare in terms of the graph for thrust vs. density altitude. I think a general data set will work closely for most any contemporary model jet engine out there - maybe two sets of data for similar engine types, etc. Of course one of the biggest variables we deal with is "installed" thrust where the chosen pipe design will greatly add variables to the raw thrust an engine can deliver on a test stand. That will have to be considered on a separate basis and most everyone knows that a bifrucated pipe, like on an F-15 or 18, will be a worst case scenario in this consideration where as a short straight pipe may actually increase static thrust depending on design.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 11:16 AM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232554

RE: Fuel line tie wire?
[quote]ORIGINAL: BaldEagel Don't forget to barb the fuel tube and tie behind that, I solder a bit of paper clip onto the fuel tube and file it smooth after soldering and tie behind that. Mike [/quote] GREAT idea, why haven't I thought of it [:D] I typically haven't made a big deal about vent lines that aren't barbed but I still safety wire them anyway with SS wire. I just use pliers and a wire cutter and some hemostats to loop the ties wire back on itself to reduce a chance of wearing into other fuel lines or electrical wires, it works just as well as the fancy twisters. But the quick solder barb sounds like a decent idea.
Posted on: 9/16/2012 8:55 AM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230002

RE: CO2 extinguishers
Also, "Halon" is a brand name such as the brands "Kleenex", "Microsoft" and "Google" are. "Halon" is BCF extinguishing agent. All commercial aircraft world wide still use BCF and it's perfectly legal. Aviation, Police and Military still have free use of it even in Europe and Australia where it is banned for civil use. Model aviation... probably not in these areas. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bromochlorodifluoromethane For model airplanes I'm confident CO2 will work just as well and I have chosen it as my agent of choice. More than BCF or CO2 - the use of the right agent TYPE for the right fire is more of a predictor of success in getting the fire out. For a fuel fire like a wet start or torch that we see in model jets, CO2 works great. For lipos, you need water. Halon/BCF won't cut it either, the results are the same for CO2 or BCF. Once the source can be fed oxygen again it will re ignite. Water smothers and cools the source and the fire will not re ignite if it's put out properly with water. Where as for a fuel fire, once the fire is stopped the fuel will not re ignite of there is no further source of ignition (like burning/smouldering solids near by ignited by the fuel fire). CO2 works great for general small fires of the appropriate class, and does not pollute the atmosphere.
Posted on: 9/14/2012 1:16 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228597

RE: Starter installation on Wren motors
Thanks again Ron for taking my call today. FYI, my starter was making a rattling noise on startup. I used the technique here to back the starter out of the housing and inspect the "O" ring that resides in the bendex starter unit at the tip of the motor (what seats onto the compressor spinner). The O ring looked mostly fine, just a touch of wear in coloration but I'm sure it was normal. I used your technique of dipping a cotton "Q" Tip cleaner tip in some denatured alcohol and then cleaning off the compressor spinner. It didn;t look too bad but it did release a lot of gunk onto the Q Tip. Dried it all down with a clean Q Tip and then decided how far to mount the motor on the starter housing using your technique (Attach some allegator clips to the starter connector and then wire them to a receiver pack (6 volts or so). When I plugged in the receiver pack the motor engaged the engine and it still rattled a bit but not as much as before. I moved the motor forward int he mount to be 1mm aft of the most forward "touching" position int he pics above. Now it engaged and spun up very smoothly. I did three quick starter engagements to verify operation before final securing). Then I used some blue lock tite to secure the grub screws against the motor in the final position. My motor is happy at 1mm where it was originally mounted at 1.5mm aft of spinner contact at rest. I think The motor Bendex unit was not firmly attaching to the spinner and there was some rattling associated with the loose connection. Now it sound much better! It is also worth noting the motor starting Bendex unit snaps out of position and the turbine is rotating freely when the starter is disengaged. Probably an important point to note! Thanks again Ron.
Posted on: 9/12/2012 2:15 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "Wren Turbines USA"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226479

RE: Hawker Hunter 1/6th scale ARF from Flying Legends
Nice work Kirk!! Jet looks great in the air. How did you pack her up for the transit to and from? Did you drive a trailer or pack and fly?
Posted on: 9/11/2012 5:47 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225576

RE: UAT full, but the turbine flamed out....
Even when using minimal joints, no festo, all new line, all brand name parts and filters (Jetcat) - I've still seen the occasional air bubble get caught in the Jetcat type metal filter. What I do every time after start and before I close the hatches for flight is flick the Jetcat filter with my finger to jar it (mounted loose and vertical with the inlet on the lower end). Sometimes I see a little air bubble come out and travel to the engine without incident or any sign of the engine becoming unhappy. About every fourth flight or so (sometimes less often) I'll see a very small bubble come out during the flick before the flight. I've replaced the filters, replaced fuel line, connectors... thinking I must have an air leak of some sort, somewhere. But after speaking with several insiders I've been told it's normal to have small air bubbles form in the filters at times and that's why we mount the filters loose and vertical; so the bubbles don't get too big to flame out an engine when they pass normally. I've been told the bubbles would pass with no harm in my fuel system the way I have the filter mounted but I still go the extra mile and clean out what I can before flight. I've never had an inflight flame out (knocking on wood). But I have been fanatical about fuel line integrity. I always use fresh lines and fuel tank hardware - just re plumbed my A-4 this week actually again (every year or two depending) I know from flying full size jets that all jet fuel has a considerable amount of air dissolved in it and full size fuel systems are designed to deal with foaming and aeration of fuel on climb out when it is most apparent and most liable to cause a flame out if you have any external boost fuel pump issues. So no doubt we also deal with dissolved air in fuel that will present issues under rapid pressure changes like in pumps and filters in our considerably simple systems. We aren't climbing to 40K but we are using high pressure fuel pumps, little lines and micro hardware - tolerances for us are pretty tight and it's not like have auto ignition and windmill re-light capability (why not I'm not sure it... would be nice).
Posted on: 9/10/2012 7:54 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224499

RE: NEIL ARMSTRONG RIP
OUTSTANDING Documentary (love all 4 parts). Not just about rockets and spacecraft, but covering what is missing today. The courage, drive and determination to make many things happen for the greater good. Interesting that what is missing from Neil Armstrong is the over inflated ego and selfishness that is so common today. Thanks for the link.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 1:05 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224024

Smoke oil pump rate?
I'm putting a quick change external smoke tank on my TJ A-4, powered by a Wren Supersport. I have a Tamjets Smoke Pump. In terms of ounces per minute of oil flow, what are you guys seeing that will work as far as laying a decently visible smoke trail? I was looking quickly at the manual for the pump and it looks like it can be set to a pre set level and switched on or off or alternatively can be variable pump rate slaved to throttle or even using a slider depending on setup. I don't need to smother skies with massive smoke like a biplane doing snap rolls and such but a good respectable trail would be nice. I'm using the standard Tamjets steel smoke nozzles. I've read where guys are further pinching them with a exacto blade inside to keep them very restricted to spray the oil better in the exhaust flow and have seen posts showing the importance of the placement of the smoke nozzle on the flow. Seems to make sense. I am in the process of building the tank in the next few weeks and I have some flexibility in the tank size since I'm fabricating it. I was hoping 20-24 ounces of smoke oil should be enough? I don't want too much extra weight since the jet is not a giant scale setup! But I'd like about 2 minutes of smoke if I could get it, to make the whole thing worth while on a 7 minute flight. Here is a diagram of the tank. The reason for the two tanks inside is for baffling and to keep air bubbles/smoke interruptions down during accelerations/decelerations/aerobatics. Also I can use cheap off the shelf plastic tanks and use inexpensive parts on hand for the tank fairing as this is a light wright quick build tank. Originally I had the pump co located in the tank fairing but decided to locate it on a quick remove mount in the engine bay to reduce the loading on the tank installation to just smoke oil mass alone. The tank pylon is mounted to bracing attached to the formers and braces in the airframe, and will be semi permanent while the tank fairing itself is a quick connect to the pylon. TIA for any thoughts. EDIT: Smoke Tank re designed. Thanks Wayne for picking up on the errors in my initial design and letting me know on post 5!
Posted on: 8/29/2012 2:45 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206614

RE: Smoke oil pump rate?
For sure Sean, expect some more as I learn. Joe, thanks very much, will chat soon! Nice smoke video Paul, thanks for the tips as well. I updated my schematic above to this one to clean up my sloppy plumbing design that would not work well. Thanks again Wayne for pointing out the problem areas!
Posted on: 8/29/2012 2:39 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210667

RE: Smoke oil pump rate?
Joe that is so cool! I love the idea of the smoke tubes going to the aft end of the pipe! Clean and care free in my book - awesome, thanks for the pics. I'm gonna have to experiment with that. What brass tube size are you using and how did you secure the brass tube to the SS tube near the aft end of the exhaust? (It almost looks like it's the same brass tube at the exhasut end - not using SS? I assume it works and doesn't melt as it's still working!!) PS - sweet video. I like the gap between the pipe and the smoke in this setup - looks like a real jet with smoke or a contrail.
Posted on: 8/29/2012 5:21 AM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210060

RE: Smoke oil pump rate?
Edit: Dreaded double post from slow network!!
Posted on: 8/28/2012 1:34 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209360

RE: Smoke oil pump rate?
Thanks for the feedback! Also, good heads up on the tank plumbing - I'll have to re design to feed oil to the header tank with an oil fill line - and then feed the main 16 oz oil tank with the header tank vent out the top. Like this: Fill line to header tank > Header tank full > Header tank vent to main tank > Main tank fill up to main tank vent. For feed: Feed from header tank pickup klunk to smoke pump and nozzle. Header tank stays full by pulling oil from the main tank via main tank klunk feeding header tank inlet vent until it's empty, then header tank empties last. I'll have a shut off valve to the smoke pump so I can fill the tanks without oozing smoke oil past the pump.
Posted on: 8/28/2012 1:32 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209358

RE: Smoke oil pump rate?
Thanks! Dang, smoke oil doesn't last long at all! I might have to re-think that 8 ounce hopper tank as a secondary 16 ounce tank for 32 ounces total!! Good news is that it would be an easy mod to up the capacity if I go that route. I suppose I'll start with 24oz and go from there. What's the lowest throttle setting reliable and (relatively) clean smoke can be had? I assume smoke is best to use at higher throttle settings...
Posted on: 8/26/2012 3:01 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206753

RE: NEIL ARMSTRONG RIP
WOW, did not know! A true hero.
Posted on: 8/25/2012 4:36 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205889

RE: LUCKY LAD!!!!
Dang! Those pesky 2 stroke engines!!! [:@]
Posted on: 8/23/2012 8:39 AM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "Airplanes - Full Scale"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203384

RE: Hawker Hunter 1/6th scale ARF from Flying Legends
Z, sorry to hear about that. Get her flying. Get some enjoyment out of her, trimmed out, and then make her pretty. Then you will really appreciate the jet. One of my best ever long term successful models was doinked in a mid air right off the bat. I did a partial re-build, cleaned her up and she has served well for years and years and I never had the feeling like I was going to dork up a perfect jet! That's your one advantage now. Butterflies - gone. At's all fun now ;)
Posted on: 8/22/2012 10:07 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202950

RE: LUCKY LAD!!!!
That was a nasty land-out area - looked like he only sorted out his plan at the last minute (usually that means stall-spin on the base to final)! Fortunately the glider looked like an older beater just looking at the vid. Lucky lad is right [&:]
Posted on: 8/22/2012 9:57 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "Airplanes - Full Scale"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202944

RE: I'm still around folks.
[quote]ORIGINAL: k_sonn Tam, Glad to see you're still around.  I know we've had our difference in the past but that's behind us.  Glad to hear you're ok. Kirk [/quote] Awesome. I'll be looking for both you guys to have some fun at BITW in October! Kirk you are bringing your Hunter, right?
Posted on: 8/21/2012 5:09 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201396

RE: Jet Tronic Low Loss single action valve
Thank you Gary!!
Posted on: 8/20/2012 5:27 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200183

RE: Gear Problem on Landing What Would You Do????
PS a short nicely mowed and rolled grass strip is what I consider a "runway" too if you aren't on a paved strip. What get's guys in trouble from what I've seen is landing in unprepared grass and weeds on the side of a paved runway thinking that would be more desirable than a paved strip. I've seen that very get ugly. A long slide and slow deceleration even with gouges and scratches to the finish is always better than a soft surface that will grab and tear at the big airfame parts at high speeds.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 1:50 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198876

RE: Jet Tronic Low Loss single action valve
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dave Wilshere Eddie The M Valve (single action) is no better from air-useage. The Zeroloss brake valve (same casing as the J valve) is great. As David says the UP6 is probably the best servo operated valve Dw [/quote] Thank you for the replies, gents!! However, I suppose I'm not familiar with a "M" valve and a "J" valve. I was thinking about purchasing
Posted on: 8/19/2012 1:39 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198866

RE: Gear Problem on Landing What Would You Do????
I've seen this before - a few times at jet rallies with other guys and it's also happened to me. Sometimes a bump and go on as many gear that will stay down as possible will cause the reticent gear to snap down into position and then you are happily on your way up into the return circuit/pattern to land. Trying to convert the "bump and go" into an immediate landing with the sudden good fortune of having 3 down and locked "can" be a recipe for a kangaroo hop and long landing + over run and tearing out all three gear from the plates/rails on a short club field!! But not always, seems like the above example was carefully executed this way (nice work!!) There may be the option to go around and take a bow after a perfect approach and landing. If the bump and go doesn't work I've seen two follow on techniques. The first is to land with as much gear up as possible in the grass. This usually results in a cartwheel or sudden deceleration and severe damage to the airframe. Bad juju. The much better alternative is to land on the center line, or far side of the runway if you have thought this out quickly and efficiently with your spotter considering wind, touchdown spot and configuration. Touch down as slow as possible and keep her flying with aileron and elevator to set down in a controlled manner, and allow the airframe drag and scraping to pull the jet off the side at a much slower speed. If you have an asymmetric main gear down situation, applying brakes can equalize the drag enough to stop straight ahead without a sudden stop on the side of the runway. Just don't apply too much brakes and slide off the opposite side of the runway. Land down field of any possible excursion into the viewing or pit areas - last thing we need is a disabled plane plowing into populated areas on the side of the runway. Resultant damage can usually be fixed in minutes and even less if you have wing tip skids. If you can shut down the turbine in the flair or after touchdown you won't ingest FOD and can eliminate the chance of a grass fire from exhaust on flammable matter or a broken fuel line with a pump blasting away trying to keep the engine running if the plane comes to a sudden stop and is damaged.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 12:44 PM by Author "Eddie P" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198819