RE: Great Planes Big Stik Kit Plans
ST 90 will work fine, but you may have to use a three blade prop to keep the diameter small enough for ground clearance. Mine had a ST 75, same weight (very close) as the 90, and I had to add a little tail weight, but the plane didn't care. Great combo.
Posted on: 6/16/2013 5:05 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11544658

RE: Great Planes Big Stik Kit Plans
The landing gear from the 60 sized ARF will work fine as long as you don't run more than a 12" prop. Bigger prop will require taller gear. BTW, it is quite strong.
Posted on: 6/8/2013 6:43 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11537147

RE: Great Planes Big Stik Kit Plans
I built a Big Stik 60 from GP plans, and it was a fantastic plane. I lost mine to a crash with another plane in flight. Mine was powered by a ST .75, and needed tail weight. I made it with the four nylon 1/4-20 wing mount screws, which was a good mount system. If I were to build another one, I would change it to tail dragger. I also used two aileron servos. Don't waste time shaping the scallops into the ailerons and elevator unless you really like the appearance- too time consuming and hard to cover. Plane is like a reliable truck with easy handling flight.
Posted on: 6/6/2013 6:37 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11535732

RE: How do I brace weak tail
I don't think there is any problem with the 4* tail as designed. I have one I built with a Saito 1.20 on it, and built it stock except for enlarging the rudder for better knife-edge flight. They have alot of wing, and once I was trying to taxi a little too fast. It went airborn and my first reaction was to cut the throttle (naturally, right?). It dropped and hit the spinner and wing-tip, flipped and then the tail section hit hard. The tail covering on the fuse was split at the front of the verticle fin straight down the sides of the fuse a couple inches on both sides. When I removed the covering to inspect the integrity of the fuse, I discovered that the small piece of plywood in front of the tail feathers had split all the way where the layers of ply were joined. All I had to do was wick some thin CA into the piece of ply to repair it and re-cover.
Posted on: 6/2/2013 4:47 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11530657

RE: Virus warning
Yes!! I just posted (but maybe in the wrong place) this: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11206295/tm.htm I have AVG, but I cannot ignore it, it will not allow me to continue to the market place. I am frustrated!! [:'(]
Posted on: 8/26/2012 2:29 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206723

Exploit Invisible iframe injection on marketplace?
For the last week I cannot access RCU Marketplace. I get a pop-up from my AVG anti-virus that it has blocked a threat of "invisible iframe injection (type 1707)". Has anyone else esperienced this, and is there anything really threatening? Thanks
Posted on: 8/26/2012 5:23 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Planes/Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206295

RE: God, I Really Can't Tell!
Mount it so the wheels are as far forward as possible.
Posted on: 7/31/2012 3:19 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176354

RE: going to try instead of arf.
I second Mike Gordon's suggestion for a 4 star 60. You can't go wrong.
Posted on: 6/6/2012 8:03 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11108606

RE: covering
The description of paper makes me wonder if you have a tissue and dope covering. Sounds like it could get messy. [>:]
Posted on: 5/8/2012 5:25 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11072748

RE: Phaeton 90 Bi Plane Photo`s
Holy Cow, Rodney!!! Does that thing have a kick-start?!! [:)] How did it balance with that much engine?
Posted on: 5/7/2012 5:48 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11071303

RE: Coverite trim iron
I have used both, and prefer the TF trim iron over the Coverite. The Coverite has a slide temp control, which I frequently moved by accident, changing the temp. I ended up putting a piece of tape over it to keep it in one place. It was also larger, and I found it to be cumbersome/clumsy. It is of good quality, but I just felt more comfortable using the old TF unit. I do prefer the Coverite full size iron over the TF full size iron though. Just one guys opinion... [:D]
Posted on: 5/7/2012 5:41 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11071290

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
On the interior kit, I glued in some 3/32" balsa in the recessed back of each plastic panel using CA. This stiffens it to keep it flat and gives you something to glue the panels to the airframe. When you cut out the opening in the cockpit, you can fit each piece in and see where it touches the airframe for gluing. The side pieces had to be notched on the top edge to fit against the side formers, and they tuck under another piece of balsa along their top edge. It may not make sense to read it, but as soon as you get the parts in there it will make more sense.
Posted on: 4/20/2012 4:25 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11041300

RE: I finished the Phaeton II
Ed, glad your eye surgery brought you back, congratulations! I've heard that's the one thing to look forward to in old age (having cataract surgery) and better eye sight. It makes up some for the rest of our bodies going downhill! Nice Phatons, everyone! I have these on my list to build.
Posted on: 4/18/2012 5:03 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11046861

RE: Old kits, Conditions?
I would worry more about warping if the wood is old, but that should be readily visible. Possibly it was exposed to variations in humidity over the years. I've bought a couple old kits and found the plastic canopy and cowl beat up from the box being moved a lot.
Posted on: 4/14/2012 4:46 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11041298

RE: Whats happened to Monocoat ?
I cannot believe no one has mentioned the poor color matching between lots of Monokote. I have had problems with missile red and olive drab that are so badly matched, you would not guess they were the same color except for the label. I have had problems with adhesion of trim with MK after just using heat, and frequently have to use trim solvent to get it to stay down.
Posted on: 4/3/2012 7:24 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11026498

RE: Engine fuel question please!!!!!!!!!!
Last time I looked, the "4-stroke" fuel had a lower percentage of lubrication. I have always used Omega fuel for both my 2 and 4 stroke engines, and like the performance and longevity. I have used 15%, but found I did not need the extra nitro, and now use 10%. Some engines (magnum and Supertigre) seem to perform best with 10% maximum nitro. Saito will benefit from higher nitro content, but don't need it to run well. YS engines require 20% nitro with 20% synthetic oil content.
Posted on: 3/11/2012 2:20 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10995752

RE: problems painting koverall
Well, I just checked with one of the pros at the field. He had a couple suggestions: First, only use [b][/b]UNSCENTED [b][/b] talcum powder, the scented kind does not stick. Second, he suggested brushing the first coats on, and not thinning the dope too much, use about 25% thinner. If spraying, you will have to thin it more, and it will soak in and possibly leave pinholes. If you want a smooth finish, add the talcum to the dope, adding a little at a time untill you can see it thickens the mixture. This will act as a filler, which is easily sanded smooth. Finish coats on top of this will be smooth. My concern was that I want the texture of the fabric to show through, and don't want a super smooth finish (If I wanted smooth, I'd use Monokote). His suggestion was just to brush on the dope without thinning it too much, and not use talcum powder. He also had a suggestion for applying the first coat of dope using single ply toilet paper. He said to lay a strip of toilet paper on the fabric, apply the dope onto the toilet paper, then slide the paper across the surface (drag it) to apply just the right amount of dope to the fabric without letting it soak through. It's supposed to just leave the dope on the surface. FWIW, I believe this man, he has lots of experience, and has never steered me wrong. [8D]
Posted on: 1/10/2012 10:59 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10901911

RE: problems painting koverall
[quote]ORIGINAL: Live Wire Interesting why people don't use talc in their dope to fill the weave[8|] In the old day's we did not have this problem. [/quote] You beat me to it. I think talc powder is the key, but I have no personal knowledge of the exact method. I recall some of the "old pros" discussing it. Anyone with details, please share. Thanks.
Posted on: 1/8/2012 8:26 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10897778

RE: The right kit for me?
How about GP Extra 300 .60 size? GP Kits are well designed and instructions make them good for first time builders.
Posted on: 10/10/2011 6:04 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10757657

RE: Why not a 4-stroke in Dazzler (uproar)?
Well, just an update- I used the 2-stroke, and it flies fine. I modified the firewall to allow use of an 8 oz flex tank. The Magnum .46 is plenty of power- it will take it straigh up out of sight! I moved the elevator servo into the back of the fuse and still had to add 3.5 oz of lead to get a balance of 3 7/8" (much further back than plans), which worked out fine. Won't hold knife edge yet, but still dialing in... Throws had to be increased from plans as well. I'll post pics soon. Thanks for interest!
Posted on: 10/7/2011 6:39 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10753945

RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build
Acerc, please give us some details as to how you mount the dummy engine to the inside of the cowl. That is the only dummy engine I've seen that does justice to the rest of the plane. Well worth the effort, I look forward to seeing the finished product.
Posted on: 9/21/2011 6:38 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10727143

RE: Magnum/ASP 108
Glad to hear it Jim. Enjoy your engine and plane. Those 108's are great engines, and can be found at great prices, too. [:D]
Posted on: 8/29/2011 5:33 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691595

RE: Magnum/ASP 108
15x8 prop, 10% will be fine. Carb is probably orig, as I believe the 108 was an overbore of the original 91.
Posted on: 8/18/2011 8:04 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10676900

RE: HP VT-21
Kmot, thanks for posting the video, cool engine! I have one still in box and have not got around to running it. Even though they are heavy and low power, you can't deny they are cool. Have you found an airframe for it yet?
Posted on: 7/19/2011 9:34 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10629728

RE: Glow Engine Repair Manual or Book???
You might want to check out Harry Higley's book [link=http://www.harryhigley.com/Books2.htm]HERE.[/link]
Posted on: 6/29/2011 10:18 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10599345

RE: Balsarite vs StickIt
I've used both, and prefer Balsarite. Stixit is thicker and while it works, it is easy to get a buildup of it which shows as a little lumpy under the covering. This is not as noticable under 21st Century fabric as it is under high gloss Monokote. I still use Balsarite on hardwood or plywood which does not hold the covering as well as balsa. It is also ideal on "cheeks" like mentioned to hold the covering fast at edges exposed to fuel and exhaust.
Posted on: 6/29/2011 10:15 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10599343

RE: How much nitro will a 2 stroke take?
Worst engine I damaged was a Saito .72 that the prop flew off at full throttle on test stand in my garage. Prop hit the wall, and the engine revved to who knows how many RPMs, but it sang! I paniced for a minute before I was able to shut it down. It seemed to be fine for a while, but after a few flights, it dead-sticked. When I tore it down, I found the con-rod was damaged. Simple fix, no more problems.
Posted on: 6/23/2011 7:32 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10589368

RE: Magnum .91 4 stroke
May sound silly, but make sure the prop nut is good and tight. I had an engine that made a noise like you describe and it turned out to be just that, nut was too loose, but I caught it before the prop flew off. The drive washer had enough play on the keyed shaft that it was banging back and forth. If that's good, turn the engine over by hand, see if you feel anything out of ordinary, like interferance. If you do, start taking things apart and look for damaged parts. If you have excess clearance in tappets, it will be more of a ticking and not a knocking sound. Let us know what you find. I'm assuming you are using same nitro content fuel as before? (not getting predetonation?) By the way, open up your needle valve, as if it is quitting as you described, you are probably too lean. Who knows, maybe that's all you needed to do to stop the knocking, too (?)
Posted on: 6/23/2011 7:24 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10589351

RE: How much nitro will a 2 stroke take?
Mike, that's a great story! [:D]
Posted on: 6/23/2011 4:23 PM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10589064

RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build
Kork, How about using the steel cables with crimps? You can get a kit from DuBro or get some from the fishing supplies in your sporting goods store. It has a clear plastic coating. I have used it with good results with bent brackets attached to the stab/fin and a 2-56 clevis for adustment.
Posted on: 6/21/2011 12:36 AM by Author "FlyingPilgrim" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10584629