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RE: ThunderTiger Rare Bear
Hey guys, I crashed my Bear on the maiden a couple of years ago. I slowly got her rebuilt- Here is a video of it flying a few weeks back. On the maiden flight it was tail heavy and flew pretty poorly. I added about 6 ounces up front even with a Saito 1.80 to get it balanced. That helped a bunch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIz_CTKUyng
Posted on: 10/25/2008 6:33 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8084243
RE: Jett 50 Loose high speed needle - How to tighten?
I cinched the packing nut down a quarter turn or so and thats all it needed. Now the needle has a nice secure fit with no tendency to drift about. Thanks!
Posted on: 9/22/2008 9:35 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7981162
RE: Jett 50 Loose high speed needle - How to tighten?
Thanks for the tips guys, I will give it a go in the morning. I'm glad I asked now because I really thought I was stuck with the old fuel line tubing fixer upper which wasn't really working that well[sm=48_48.gif] Thanks again!
Posted on: 9/19/2008 9:46 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7971499
Jett 50 Loose high speed needle - How to tighten?
I have a Jett 50 and the high speed needle is too easy to turn. Engine vibration causes it to wander. My best guess is that there is a gasket in there that needs to be replaced. Maybe I can just put some fuel tubing around the needle and overlap onto the housing to keep it more secure. I would greatly appreciate any other better fixes though-
Posted on: 9/17/2008 11:38 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7965532
RE: F-20 Throttle Linkage
Thanks guys, the rod is not too short, I could use the Z bend but I want to avoid metal to metal contact and the Z bend sometimes have some slop in them. I suppose I need to find out the size of the rod and get a threaded end to fit it, then solder it on and use a plastic clevis. I was trying to use stuff I have on hand and I don't have any threaded ends this small of a diameter.
Posted on: 9/1/2008 10:29 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7907805
F-20 Throttle Linkage
This is a pretty simple question for many experienced modelers - I just want some ideas for connecting this throttle cable to my Jett 50 without using a Z bend. I guess it will involve glueing some kind of linkage to the rod since its not threaded, I'm open for suggestions-
Posted on: 9/1/2008 9:35 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7907698
RE: 1.2V Parallel Glow Pack and Amps for Glow Plug
Thanks for all the feedback guys. I went ahead with my gut feeling that my single cell glow driver just wasn't consistently able to give the power needed so I ordered a Hobbico Deluxe Power Panel II that has adjustable amps to the plug, driven by a 12v field battery. I ordered enough stuff from Tower to get $20 off, so that made the panel 'free' anyways right?[sm=shades_smile.gif] We'll see how it goes and I'll post back the results here. I'm still open for more suggestions though!
Posted on: 8/30/2008 11:34 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7901950
RE: 1.2V Parallel Glow Pack and Amps for Glow Plug
With my limited electrical knowledge I ponder this: With the Hobbico glow panel or the Radio South glow driver when the electrical 'juice' is turned up is the voltage staying at a constant 1.2V (thus not frying the glow coil) and the amps simply made more available? Is that the big advantage, keeping the 1.2V steadily available or actually increasing the voltage to 1.5V or even 2V?
Posted on: 8/23/2008 10:39 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7876734
RE: 1.2V Parallel Glow Pack and Amps for Glow Plug
Maybe instead of building a pack this battery would work- http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=834 A single F size 1.2V NiMH with 14000 mAh, but how do I make the amps flow as much as needed?
Posted on: 8/22/2008 11:09 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7875724
1.2V Parallel Glow Pack and Amps for Glow Plug
I'd like to get a nice reliable, hot plug for starting an inverted Moki 2.10. My single cell glow drivers just don't seem to get it when a bit of extra fuel is sitting on top of the plug coil. I've been looking at some of the products such as a Radio South MKII glow driver or a panel based glow plug driver with adjustable amps like the Hobbico Deluxe Power Panel II. These products either auto adjust (the Radio South products) or have a dial to turn up the amps manually (the Hobbico panel). They both take a higher voltage battery and bring it down to roughly 1.2V at the glow plug. I think the key with the products is that you can get more amps if needed while at the 1.2V to keep the plug glowing nice and hot. Before I get one of these products I thought I'd try a few 1.2V nicads in a parallel pack with a an extension and glow clip wired to it. Maybe I'd put 4 sub C's together and end up with a 4400mah 1.2V pack. That pack should have plenty of available amps to keep the plug lit for a long time if my Moki is giving me a hard time. Any ideas on products I mentioned vs. the parallel pack would be appreciated.
Posted on: 8/22/2008 5:47 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7874807
RE: PHOENIX MODELS F-20 TIGERSHARK ?
Thanks Kmot! Shows how much I read ahead!! You saved me a real headache[:D]
Posted on: 9/22/2007 12:46 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6399014
RE: PHOENIX MODELS F-20 TIGERSHARK ?
Quick question, I did a search but nothing came up specifically- I just started the build and the horizontal stabilizer (and premounted elevator halves) will not fit through the precut slot in the rear of the fuse! The combo is about 1/2 inch to wide to fit through the slot. It looks like the wood block at the very rear was just cut too long and thus the slot for the stab and elevators is too short. I could try to hack it to make it fit, but my skills aren't that straight cutting [:'(] Has anyone else had this problem? I spoke with Tower and they said I can pay for shipping of the fuse back and they would send another. Looks like my only option[&o] This is a sweet LOOKING ARF though[:D]!
Posted on: 9/21/2007 9:17 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6398386
RE: ThunderTiger Rare Bear
If you want to see an awesome Rare Bear rc airplane then watch this video. I don't think its a Thunder Tiger. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Gy2vAaxyiU&mode=related&search=
Posted on: 4/6/2007 11:16 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5676923
RE: Retrofit balancing leads to old Lipo pack?
Thanks, that explains it in an easy to read format [8D]
Posted on: 2/19/2007 8:40 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5440525
Retrofit balancing leads to old Lipo pack?
I have 1500 mah 3s Lipo pack that won't take on its full capacity. It will only take on about 800-900 mah when I charge with a Triton. The pack does get to around 12.3 volts. I took off the shrink wrap and was very careful not to cross connect any terminals while I checked the voltage of each cell in the pack with a voltmeter. Each cell after charging tested almost the same, about 4 volts give or take 0.1 volts. Since the pack is probably on its last leg I was going to just try to wire it up for balancing with my Equinox balancer just as an exercise. The question is there are 6 terminals amongst the 3 cells but only 4 wires that go to the plug into the balancer. I guess they all share the same ground?
Posted on: 2/15/2007 1:03 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5422886
RE: starting a frikkin Moki 2.10
I checked it afterwards, it still glows
Posted on: 10/30/2006 4:00 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4934128
starting a frikkin Moki 2.10
The saga continues..to recap though, I have a Moki 2.10 that I've run about 1.5 gallons of 80% Methanol 20% Castor homebrew. It mounted inverted in a CG Yak 54. It was running strong. Then during the last break-in run the engine started to sag above anything more than half throttle. I went through the fuel system and found that some of the re-fueling/defueling tubing inside the tank had started to disintegrate and particles of it were clogging the fuel filter. I thought it was basically getting starved for fuel due to the partial clogging. After I put it all back together it started once and exhibited the same behavior. It would run, but only up to about half throttle then it would sag and die at anything above that. So, I figured maybe something had gotten past the fuel filter and I disassembled the carb and checked everything as best as I could. Yesterday I installed a new OS F plug (it liked an F plug before) and opened new FAI fuel (5%) I had a 6V lantern battery glowing the plug. I primed it really wet by holding my finger over the wide open carb. I could hear the fuel burning and sizzling but it never gave ame a 'bump' as I flipped the prop clockwise. Usually I could get it really primed and give it a bounce against compression and it would start. Now..nothing..no bump...It has lots of compression when I am turning the prop so I'm not worried about that I tried the high end needle in many different starting positions but kept the low end disk almost centered. I'm almost ready to try a different engine.[>:]
Posted on: 10/30/2006 3:09 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4933945
RE: Goldberg YAK 54 - 77"
It may have been overkill but I did seal the hinge lines of the elevator and rudder with clear Ultrakote.
Posted on: 10/16/2006 8:41 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4873829
RE: Moki 2.10 carburetor removal?
So is the bolt something like this? I don't see how turning the carb body would mess up anything. In this drawing the concavity of the bolt is supposed to match the round carb body neck. Its a pretty crude representation of what i'm envisioning...
Posted on: 10/12/2006 10:11 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4861049
RE: Goldberg Wildstick .40 FLUTTER
I was not doing anything but circles. Maybe a roll thrown in, but definitely nothing fast or 3D. Probably at 1/2 throttle when it happened. Linkages were tight. I used the supplied hardware. I'm going to call CG and see what they say.
Posted on: 10/12/2006 1:22 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4858866
RE: Moki 2.10 carburetor removal?
Artisan, I appreciate the feedback. I think I will in fact try beating (tapping lightly[;)]) the carb body back down into the engine with a wood hammer or something of the sort. I was looking at some pictures of the engine I had taken when it was new and the carb it definitely out of the engine by at least 1 or 2 mm and exposing the o-ring around the carb neck. That can't be any good. After I get it tapped back in I'll see if I can get this beast back running. I'm finding that starting an inverted Moki 2.10 is about as fun as, well, no fun at all.
Posted on: 10/11/2006 10:07 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4856553
Goldberg Wildstick .40 FLUTTER
Man, this ARF is nice. It went together with great presicion cut parts and the covering is beautiful. I built it over a few weekends and today was the maiden. I took off after checking everything. It only took a few clicks of aileron and it was pretty much trimmed out. About 3 minutes into the flight I was still not really doing anything but circling the field and WHOA big time flutter. LOUD. I immediately tried to line up to find the runway...it was still controllable... landed with a small hop..not bad at all. Went out to get it and the right wing was obviously having issues. The covering was wrinkly and warped on the top side and the underside was screwed up and some broken balsa was exposed. Amazingly, The broken area around the servo seems to have preserved the integrity of the servo gears. The other wing was undamaged, but the servo gears are stripped and the servo endlessly searches for somewhere to stop. I was not flying aggressively nor fast. The servos are Futaba S3004, just standard ball bearing servos. I also flew my TT Spirit 3D today and its got full span ailerons unlike the Wildstick which was using only 1/2 the span of the wing's ailerons (flaps weren't activated). To me it seems like, well, I'm probably screwed. I think the right thing for Carl Goldberg Products would be to ship me a wing set. We'll see.
Posted on: 10/11/2006 9:43 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4856452
RE: Moki 2.10 carburetor removal?
Well I heated up the carb and block where the carb enters the engine and I was able to turn the carb by hand with great force into an unusable position and it wouldn't turn back.[&o] I resorted to carefully applying force in the opposite direction with a crescent wrench on the square carb body.[sm=75_75.gif] Not really my first choice but this thing wasn't budging! So now the very slightly marred carb is straight but I don't think it is all the way seated into the engine block. I suppose I can beat it back into the fully seated position by unmounting the engine, putting some kind of padding over the mouth of the carb (doubled over towel, rubber mallet head) and then hammering down on that. Any other great ideas?
Posted on: 10/10/2006 11:32 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4852691
RE: Moki 2.10 carburetor removal?
I actually tried tapping on the bolt. It will move back and forth, but will not come all the way out. Something is holding it in there...I guess the carb neck has a slot in it or something that holds it in place?
Posted on: 10/9/2006 11:17 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4845601
RE: Moki 2.10 carburetor removal?
Thanks for the advice...I'll hit it with the heat gun this pm and see if that gets it to loosen up a bit...All I really want to do is push the carb body back up into the engine block since I dissassembled and checked everything else from the carb while it was still in the engine.
Posted on: 10/9/2006 9:53 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4845345
Moki 2.10 carburetor removal?
I want to remove the carb from a Moki 2.10 to clean and check. I removed the nut from the bolt running through the engine block where the neck of the carb is pressed in. I can't get that bolt to come on out though. The bolt seems to be locked in somehow. It is loose, but won't come out. This seems to keep the carb from letting go from the block. I got the carb to barely budge and now it is a bit turned and has come away from the block about 1mm, now I can see the gasket around the neck of the carb. I tried to push the carb back up snug but it won't budge in any direction. It is either a heck of a press fit into the engine block or I need to remove that bolt somehow to allow the carb to pull out.[sm=drowning.gif]
Posted on: 10/9/2006 8:51 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4845165
RE: Goldberg YAK 54 - 77"
My maiden jitters have been renewed! It may be this coming Sunday....gotta check..EVERYTHING AGAIN[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]
Posted on: 10/2/2006 8:44 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4817628
RE: Moki Source
http://www.speedersonline.com I bought a 2.10 from them earlier this year
Posted on: 9/25/2006 12:16 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4790704
RE: Futaba HD switch and charge mount
I had an ah-ha moment and remembered that the other part of the charge jack is attached to the charge cord on the switch[sm=tired.gif] So, I was wanting to use this charge port on a different airplane from the switch, but that won't be possible since the back part of the port is connected to the charge wire.....
Posted on: 9/25/2006 8:19 AM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4789935
Futaba HD switch and charge mount
I bought a Futaba heavy duty switch and charge mount. It didn't have instructions on how to mount the charge mount. On other mounts I've used the charge cord (going through the switch to the battery) is put into the 'window' on the mount and set in place with a set screw. I don't see how this one works. Also it came with a mystery short 2 inch long male - male extension cord. Maybe someone can advise me because I'm stumped here [sm=bananahead.gif]
Posted on: 9/24/2006 7:19 PM by Author "Frag"
in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4787794
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