RE: MORGAN MV and other Morgan fuels
castor in their fuels, and use all synthetic oil. I do use 18% total oil (a bit high by current fuel
Posted on: 7/7/2012 2:00 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146760

RE: Mobil Jet Oil II mixing with Methanol
work great. I see the tendency in the fuel business to use many lesser oils, some sold with snake... you can take to make a fuel. Another way to get a less expensive fuel is to buy a club fuel. They often buy in 55-gal drums and can provide a better base cost for the fuel. Unless you use more than a dozen or two gallons it year, it is hard to save money on fuel. I personally buy my methanol in 55-gal
Posted on: 5/15/2012 10:58 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11081715

RE: TEST: How nitro content effects RPM
. Early trials with fuel were largely trial and error, with emphasis on error. Out of those times came some excellent fuel formulations. A lot better than adding oil of mirbane (nitrobenzene), propylene... about the wonderful "additives" or additive packages added to fuel and am reminded that some of our..., and stick really well on lower engine parts, giving protection at fairly high temperatures. This old fuel
Posted on: 11/23/2011 4:40 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10826188

RE: TEST: How nitro content effects RPM
. Early trials with fuel were largely trial and error, with emphasis on error. Out of those times came some excellent fuel formulations. A lot better than adding oil of mirbane (nitrobenzene), propylene... about the wonderful "additives" or additive packages added to fuel and am reminded that some of our..., and stick really well on lower engine parts, giving protection at fairly high temperatures. This old fuel
Posted on: 11/23/2011 4:38 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10826184

RE: TEST: How nitro content effects RPM
, that is, standard FAI fuel. Again, thank you for providing objective information about the effects
Posted on: 11/19/2011 3:16 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10819851

RE: 2 stroke fuel in a 4 stroke engine
a 4-stroke fuel with no castor. You might look up an old article on Google, basic homemade model fuel
Posted on: 10/1/2011 2:50 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10743939

RE: NITROMETHANE SUBSTITUTE.
You are right, we did use nitrobenzene. It is also called Oil of Mirbane, and is the great smell when you open a fresh can of Kiwi shoe polish. We also used propylene oxide, tried ethanol (did not work well), very high nitromethane for speed events and rat racing, when we could mix up our own fuels. Down Under, they use about 3% acetone to aid in ignition of their model engines. I also made fuels earlier with Mobil Jet oil. Does not take a high percentage, but did not work all that well. Most countries use much less nitromethane than we do here in the States. I remember using Klotz Techniplate oil in the King Orange Internationals in Miami, FL when it was first introduced. It is a very good lubricant for model engines and I personally buy 30-gallon barrels of Klotz Techniplate, gallons of Benol racing castor and 5 gallon pails of nitromethane, and 55-gallon drums of M-1 racing methanol (VP Racing). Getting the nitro is a bit easier for me, I have a chemistry degree in my bag of degrees and have been mixing my own model fuels since I was 12 years old. Back then, I flew contest rat racing and combat, both control line. Could not afford radio control, had to get a real job to be able to do that. :-) In the earlier days, i raced with K&B .29 and .35 engines, before the more powerful .40s were introduced. Had Cox .010, 0.020, .049, OK Cub .049, old Forester? .99, Cyclone Super .60, you name it, I had it. Also had the gray metal case ball bearing racing McCoy .29 engine. redhead, NOT the $8 one in the plastic box, but the $15.99 racing .29. Had to cut down 8 x 9 props for that on my rat racer. Also had to bore out the diameter and re-balance the props. Could beat a lot of .35s with that engine. Last remembrance, at the King Orange Internationals, we used to go and get a conical plastic coated cardboard bottle of A & W root beer nearby on 27th Avenue in Miami, about where the Junior College is located now. The root beer was 25 cents for the quart!
Posted on: 6/6/2011 4:32 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10560224

RE: NITROMETHANE SUBSTITUTE.
nitromethane fuels, buy your fuel, or use engines set up to run regular FAI fuel (75% methanol and 25... not use petrol for fuel, unless the engine is a regular gas engine. You might look up my old article on [b]basic homemade model fuel[/b] on Google to get an idea, but please, no petrol for your own safety
Posted on: 6/6/2011 9:13 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10559534

RE: Fuel mixing advice
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/mixing_fuel.htm It makes sense to mix your own fuel if you use about 15-20 gallons a year, or if you just like to mix up your own fuel. It is getting very... in the late 1950s. To make a good fuel with a good idle, you will need methanol, an oil like Klotz... better. It generally is not cost effective to make small amounts of fuel, but a lot of fun
Posted on: 5/21/2011 5:04 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10532388

RE: cool power synthetic oils, which grade to buy?
about 20 gallons of fuel a year, you might consider making your own Basic Model Fuel.
Posted on: 3/23/2011 6:41 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10417428

RE: Why castor oil?
Got a chemistry degree in my bag of degrees and have been mixing fuels since I was 12 for racing and plain old flying by the seat of the pants. Castor oil is a natural product of a pressing of the castor bean. It does help cool and lubricate the engine. It also has a reasonably good film strength, to stay on the metal parts it lubricates. It also forms long chains in response to high heat and does not boil off as fast as most commercial oils used in fuels, so during an occasional lean run, castor will generally protect as well, or better than, virtually any commercial oil. Compared to many oils, castor is relatively inexpensive. Believe it or not, well oiled engines with castor do not generally have much rust on the engine. I would not use too much castor in most 4-stroke engines and some modelers prefer none. In my own experience, I generally use 2-3.6% castor in all my Saito 4-stroke fuels, the latter in hot summer weather. Castor oil, used at a grade of AA has been a reliable lubricant for model engines for well over 60-70 years or more and is still in use today. SIG sells a good grade of castor, but look for AA grade wherever you buy it.
Posted on: 8/4/2010 9:00 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9911534

RE: Nitro fuel storage.
airplane fuel. These comments are not to scare modelers, but just to have them understand that when you store your fuel in tightly closed, proper containers, in the dark, out of direct sunlight, heat... about the properties and nature of chemicals. Interested modelers can easily find information on their fuel..., methanol MSDS, nitromethane, nitromethane MSDS. Those two ingredients, plus the oil in your fuel
Posted on: 6/24/2010 4:16 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9824653

RE: Nitro fuel storage.
You will have a hard time explaining that relative lack of flammability and burning near the top of the can to the fellow who loosened a rusty cap on a gallon can of fuel and got burns over much of his body. Nitromethane that is hot can well be shock sensitive. Main hazards on flammability and explosion with pure nitromethane is when it is under heat and pressure. Of course there are chemical
Posted on: 6/24/2010 12:01 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9824171

RE: Nitro fuel storage.
Sport Pilot, You are right about the unopened cans. My concern is that some inexperienced modelers might use an old handy gallon can. In those cans, the spark generated from just opening a rusty cap can ignite the methanol, it has the higher vapor pressure, and the results are not very pretty. I buy my nitromethane in 5-gal pails and 30 gal drums. The danger in pure nitro is heating it under pressure. THEN you will see fireworks, the likes of which you have never seen before. After the Oklahoma government building bombing, large quantities of nitro have been very difficult to obtain. The reason for the caution on the metal cans is that there are clearly documented cases of severe burns and worse from these rusted metal cans. Some fuels are sold in metal cans, but if you notice, the lids are not the typical all metal lids, they are lined, and some are all plastic inside. Those cans are safe, so long as they are stored properly and not badly rusted on the bottoms of the can. As a 12-year old, I used to store my fuels in my closet, but used those brown chemical reagent gallon bottles. I don't do that any more. :-) NOT recommended.
Posted on: 6/24/2010 8:44 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9823788

RE: Nitro fuel storage.
I do not recommend storing model fuels in tin cans, UNLESS the cap is plastic. Old metal cans will rust, and present a very dangerous spark that can fire up your fuel. Modelers have been severely burned or killed with these older, rusting cans, so please be careful. Perhaps the best storage container for fuels is HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) gallon or quart bottles. Keep tightly capped
Posted on: 6/24/2010 8:06 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9823738

RE: nitro % help
. In order to reduce costs and maximize profits, many fuel companies are cutting the oil level... engines still run well on 20-30% nitromethane, but with just a castor based fuel. Control line
Posted on: 6/6/2010 4:12 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9785206

RE: nitro % help
, just mix yourself some FAI fuel and if you have a quart of nitro, add 5% to the FAI fuel and fly
Posted on: 6/5/2010 5:37 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9783140

RE: nitro % help
fuel mixing dinosaur.
Posted on: 6/2/2010 8:07 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9775401

RE: fuel compatability
Please do NOT ever mix gasoline and glow fuel, it is highly dangerous to do so. Glow fuels are either synthetic and/or castor oils, with methanol and usually some nitromethane. Gasoline should be used in gas engines designed to run gasoline. The old fuel mixing dinosaur.
Posted on: 11/8/2009 8:29 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9237409

RE: Nitro fuel storage.
and I hope this information helps. The old fuel mixing dinosaur....Please store your fuel in a cool place, in the dark, tightly capped. It is better if stored... into the fuel each time you open the bottle. Do not expose your fuel to heat or sparks or static.... That being said, fuel can be stored fairly long term if these precautions are taken. Pure nitro
Posted on: 9/30/2009 11:34 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9135790

RE: fuel mixing container ?
I recommend using metric graduated cylinders, even in the U.S. (among the SLOWEST to implement metric measurements!). For small to medium lots, you can use a 1,000 ml NALGENE graduated cylinder. It is much easier, and more accurate, to use ml instead of ounces. You can get one at a supply house for scientific products, like Fischer Scientific out of Atlanta. Because I mix a LOT of small lots (gallon or less) for airplane engines, helicopters, boats and cars, it is very convenient. With a single 1,000 ml graduated cylinder, you can mix up pints, quarts and gallons, most accurate for quarts and gallons. Since I do a lot of this, I have a 100 ml, 1,000 ml and a 4,000 ml (just over one gallon) Nalgene cylinders. You can get a glass graduated cylinder or one of Nalgene (sort of whitish plastic). The Nalgene does not break, is light and stands up okay to oil, methanol and nitromethane. Hope this helps
Posted on: 8/14/2009 8:54 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9015606

RE: Need a fuel Answer
Methanol evaporates easier and faster than nitromethane. The previous post is incorrect. Except for speed and a few other events, most people use much more nitromethane than their engines require in the U.S. Sometimes people will go from 10% nitro to 30% nitro to get a few hundred more rpm, sometimes less. For example, the Saito engines will run fine on 10-15% nitromethane. I am NOT talking about contest flying, competition and the like. I am talking about sport flying. In other countries, often nitromethane is not available, or even illegal to possess.
Posted on: 5/30/2009 12:02 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8811317

RE: Glow fuel
http://www.sigmfg.com/ Also PowerMaster Both make decent fuels. I mix all my own and have since I was 12 years old, and still buy by the barrels, still getting nitro okay. SIG generally uses more oil than other companies. A bit gooey, but great engine protection. PowerMaster fuels good too.
Posted on: 2/3/2009 12:38 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8433917

RE: sig champion 4 stroke fuel
I agree with the 10-12% range for oil for the large ST engines. You can use these engines with 8% Klotz Original Techniplate oil and add 2-4% AA castor or, slightly better, 2% Klotz Benol. The Benol has a higher film strength than regular AA castor. If hot where you live in the summer, use 3-4% castor in your fuel, for a total of at least 10% total oil and a maximum of 12% oil. I tend to use 12
Posted on: 2/1/2009 8:56 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8425801

RE: Klotz 198
The Klotz Helicopter oil is a low viscosity oil and is used at 22-24% in 15-30% nitromethane fuels for helicopters. You can use it, but I would use it at 22% and 10-15% nitromethane. An even better solution is to use about 18% of that oil and the rest castor oil, if you have some. You can get a good AA grade castor from Klotz, Sig. Mfg. or other supplier. You can use Klotz benol, a better castor, with an even higher film strength, great for model engines. I do not recommend using just 18% heli oil for most 2-stroke engines. Best to use 22% helicopter oil, by simple volume.
Posted on: 11/8/2008 11:50 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8126697

RE: Sidewinder Fuel
I suggest you use 10 or 15% nitromethane in these engines and 18% oil. You can add castor to bring the oil up. 10% oil will not be enough for these engines. The old fuel mixing dinosaur.
Posted on: 11/7/2008 1:40 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8124011

RE: How Dangerous is this Stuff (Nitro)???
Don't breathe the fumes. Store at room temperature in the dark, tightly closed. Nitromethane is by far the most dangerous when heated in a closed, strong container. Then, it can be explosive. Otherwise, with proper handling, it is fine to use for modeling. I have known a few people who have stored it outside in the heat, and that is NOT good. I know that some people also skydive without a parachute, but they can do that only ONCE. :-)
Posted on: 11/5/2008 9:20 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8117360

RE: Why synthetic oil?
used. Hope this information helps. Enjoy your flying! The old fuel mixing dinosaur.
Posted on: 8/19/2008 4:54 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7863681

RE: anything wrong with this blend??
and 30-gallon barrels. I DO run this fuel in my 4-strokes. I recommend 2% castor in these 4-stroke engines, and no more than 4% to keep from gumming it up a bit. For your 2-strokes, you can use this fuel at 5% nitro fine, and NOT have to add another Cruel Power fuel to it for the castor content... mixing my own fuel since I was 12 years old and in competitive rat racing and combat control line
Posted on: 8/10/2008 7:41 AM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7829170

RE: Where To Buy Methanol And Castor?
Good castor by quarts and gallons from SIG, Klotz Benol racing castor is also great for making fuels, available from klotzlube.com on the Internet. Klotz 100 and 200 are also available as a good synthetic for mixing fuels.
Posted on: 5/9/2008 8:58 PM by Author "Fuel Dinosaur" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7477140