RE: 1/5 Electric Prototyp - Lehner 3060
Good God! That thing would smoke any gas car no problem.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 1:57 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9255395

aileron source
Does anyone make pre shaped aileron's or trailing edges? Thanks
Posted on: 8/16/2009 11:59 AM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9020254

RE: Help me add lift to this canard.
[quote]ORIGINAL: aerowoof I thought boats were trimmed by the thrustline of the engine to get the right amount of plane,If you get too much lift won't this become airborne and flip like the fullsize ? [/quote] Your right. Cept this is a canard hydro. The front is very light and runs airborn down the straights. I only want to reduce the weight on the rear by a few pounds with a elevator. Maybe I should ask in the 1/4 scale forum. I bet the elevator could tear off in a crash unless built tough.
Posted on: 8/15/2009 7:10 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9018931

Help me add lift to this canard.
Im looking for suggestions on how to add a elevator to this boat to create just a bit of lift. Who makes the strongest hinges and hardwood ailerons etc? Thanks
Posted on: 8/15/2009 6:51 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9018898

RE: V-24 Racing Boat
[/quote] A separate strut and rudder are FAR superior to the steerable outdrive setup. [/quote] I disagree. A few saw records were set with a steerable outdrive.
Posted on: 11/21/2008 3:30 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8169746

RE: V-24 Racing Boat
Nice. Who sells them? Link please..
Posted on: 11/21/2008 1:06 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8169432

Wheres the Micro T ball diff!!!
Man.. Whats the problem. I thought by now someone would have started making a ball diff for the micro T.
Posted on: 11/9/2008 2:46 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8130266

RE: Which car for snow.
Hey.. Is this a good deal? http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29097 Whats the diff between it and the SS?
Posted on: 9/15/2008 4:47 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7957082

RE: Which car for snow.
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mr Terminator Slap some sand paddles on the Baja and you'll be good to go or if you're rich you can go for the Lunatik trak and ski snow mobile kit.... [/quote] Thanks everyone. I like the paddles on the Baja idea. Where do I find info on the Lunatik trak and ski snow mobile kit please?
Posted on: 9/15/2008 10:25 AM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7956096

RE: Snowmobile build up start to finish
NICE! Iv been thinking about how I could build a zenoah powered snowmobile but I think its beyond my abilities. But this new bright snowmobile looks do-able. Do you think the newbright is better than the art attack? How much wider could the ski's be widened? Thanks
Posted on: 9/14/2008 2:07 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7953250

Which car for snow.
I know I'm not the only one who's not looking forward to a cold and snowy winter. [:o] No heckling from the southern people please. Iv always wanted a zenoah powered snowmobile but I haven't seen anything even close to what I want. So my next thought is a offroad truck or buggy. Has anyone had any luck running one in the snow? And which one would be the best? I assume 4x4 would be needed so that puts the baha SS out of the picture unfortunately. Thanks before hand.
Posted on: 9/14/2008 12:38 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7953076

RE: ARx-540 website!
Wow. Just what weve been waiting for. Now who's gonna dish out $1000.00 for a model which still needs batteries, ESC, motor, Remote-Control??
Posted on: 8/30/2008 1:41 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "RC Motorcycles"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7902244

RE: Bringing 1/64 hobby grade racing to reality!!!
All your stuff looks cool. Wish things work out to get these available. Your micro boats are awesome as well. But you need a rigger.
Posted on: 12/9/2007 4:42 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6735248

RE: Lipo VS A123
IR= internal resistance Im not as educated about batteries as a few folks (record holders) I recognize in these threads. Im a follower. http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/feforums/showthread.php?t=20597&highlight=A123 http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/feforums/showthread.php?t=22537&highlight=A123 This is what one fellow had to do to get them to perform.. This cells can pushed and then the internal resistance goes down by 25% .If you want to use this cells under high amp load you have to heat them up.The procedure is ,that you have to charge them with 15 Amps till full.This is to heat ,so you have now to discarge them under 50 Amps load to reach a temperature of about 50°C .Now you can recharge the left cappacity from the heat cycle with 15 amps and Now the cell is raedy for oval or SAW contest. Then the cell is like a IB 4200 cell.
Posted on: 12/1/2007 8:37 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6701329

RE: Lipo VS A123
Thanks all. Lots of advantages for the sport modeler. I think these A123's may have a bright future. But as of right now the record holders are sticking with the lipo's. The IR is to high unless you zapp and preheat them. From what I understand.
Posted on: 12/1/2007 5:22 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6700544

RE: Airfoil and surface effect?
This boat is a three point hydro. Only The two sponsons up front, and the prop in back touch the water. The lifting wing is behind the two front sponsons so when it lifts, it decreases the AOA and settles back down.. I hope. The back of the boat , transom, will look like a trailing edge of a wing but with a rudder and prop sticking out. The trailing edge of the wing will fly about 1" above the water. The lifting wing houses all the radio gear and engine. So it needs to have alot of volume because I dont want to disturb the airflow over the top to much. The engine needs 6" of space for only the spark plug to be sticking out. So I need a airfoil with flat bottom and 6" of thickness. I will look at the clark Y.. Thanks
Posted on: 12/1/2007 5:14 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6700515

Airfoil and surface effect?
Iv been wanting to build a outrigger boat with the tub shaped to add lift. There are a few designs out there that prove lift improves speed. But I dont want to much lift. Can anyone recommend a airfoil shape which would work well traveling about one inch above the water at speeds over 80 mph? I was told the boats in the pics use the NACA 2410 profile. But I would think a need a profile with a flater bottom. I would assume the boat will travel with the bottom of the profile level with the water or at a + AOA. Any suggestions?
Posted on: 12/1/2007 3:30 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6700163

Lipo VS A123
Correct me if Im wrong.. A123's are safer. Wont catch fire. They charge twice as fast as lipo's A123's weight more and are larger than equivalent mah lipo's Are these A123's going to replace lipo batteries eventually? This is getting old.. Nimh, then lipo's, now A123's.. and expensive.
Posted on: 11/30/2007 11:22 AM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6694878

RE: Bringing 1/64 hobby grade racing to reality!!!
I would buy two if they were under 100 each.. More than double the fun.
Posted on: 11/21/2007 7:43 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6656105

RE: wouldnt this be nice?
Everything will be rc in the future. And man will evolve into a butt with a few fingers.
Posted on: 11/21/2007 6:56 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6655875

RE: Drill and tap AME prop screw hole to M4?
Thanks for the heads up Toad. I was afraid of that. Chucking up the crank in a lathe could damage the bearing surface also. My problem lies with the M3 shouldered screws I can buy. They all have .118 (3MM) shoulders. I need a .125 shoulder to mount a octura .125 x .098 flexhex just like the screw that is supplied, but longer. I tried to thread a .125 steel rod only to wear out the die and break the .125 rod in less than 2" of work. I think I needed to turn the threaded area down to .118 before threading, but I dont see that happening with such small material. Any Ideas anyone?
Posted on: 9/22/2007 6:40 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6401202

Drill and tap AME prop screw hole to M4?
I needa M4 prop screw instead of the M3 screw for my project. Does the norvel .061 R/C crank have enough material for me to drill and retap the prop screw larger to M4? Would the crank still be strong enough to withstand high rpm abuse? Thanks
Posted on: 9/22/2007 12:19 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6400051

RE: Which small nitro engine has good torque?
Ok. The engine is broke in well and runs great. Good info here on breaking in. My next step is the flywheel and flex drive. I have a dumas 1/2a steel flywheel. Looks ok until you try to mount the engine where it should be. Low. The diameter is 1" 35 grams[X(]. It has a 1/8" hole so it will sit on the shelf. I need a tapered low profile aluminum flywheel threaded engine side. Set screws for the .098 flex on other side. How do I figure out the minimum diameter and weight needed for this norvel flywheel? Or where should I ask?
Posted on: 8/28/2006 3:50 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4680782

RE: Aerofoil for rigger.
Well.. I just got info about the boat pictured. It has a NACA 2410 airfoil. Iv already cut plywood with the NACA foil 66A414 but now that I have this info. Should I switch? http://www.ds-cats.com/~kurisawa/aeronautics/Airfoils/OpenFiles.link/A2054/OS1026_A00.jpg
Posted on: 7/26/2006 11:31 AM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4546803

RE: Aerofoil for rigger.
The top of the wing will have the engine sticking out. But will still have 4" of smooth wing top on each side. Im not sure about the laminar NACA foil # 66A414. Its bottom isnt as flat as the foil used by Mike Bontoft. But I will try it unless someone can point out a foil used by GEV or Ground Effect Vehicles.
Posted on: 7/25/2006 10:40 AM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4542485

RE: Aerofoil for rigger.
Only one boat maker, Mike Bontoft, has designed something Im interested in. I emailed him but never got a reply about CG and airfoil shape. But I do know most of the weight is in the rear. And then carried by the wing which had to be cut down during testing. A canard with a lifting wing would prolly be the closest in design. I just wish I was done siding my house so I could build and play more. Soon..
Posted on: 7/23/2006 12:08 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4534674

RE: Which small nitro engine has good torque?
I have time now that my rotating shift has started again. I went ahead and bought the AME .061 RC. Got it the other day. My only concern is the needle valve turns easy, then hard as you turn it. Does this mean its bent and needs replaced?
Posted on: 7/22/2006 10:42 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4533148

RE: Aerofoil for rigger.
[quote]ORIGINAL: dolanosa I suggest a laminar NACA foil...the 66A414. I'll PM you the coords and the dxf file. Lifting force is 6.4lbs at 70mph at 0deg...you may want to put about 1/2 degree up. Does that sound about right? [/quote] Wow. It sounds like a very educated recommendation. The thickness was needed for radio gear, fuel. The engine head will be above and might need a cowl. Thanks so much! Mike
Posted on: 7/22/2006 10:52 AM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4531219

RE: Aerofoil for rigger.
My mistake. The cord is 21" and I increased the "thickness" of the airfoil 25%. Just a guess... The rigger has three main parts. The rear main wing and two front sponsons. The boat really has no hull or tub like the picture.[;)] The wing 'is' the hull. The rear sponson boom will run through close to the leading edge of the wing. And side plates (which will also serve as vertical fins like in the picture) will extend further from the sides of the wing up to the front boom like the record breaking electric SAW rigger. The side plates will be adjustable and removable to adjust the AOA. I need to scan a drawing. Imagine the boat in the picture without the narrow hull extending forward from the wing and the side fins extending forward to the front boom instead. So yes. Just a number I picked out of the blue. The span is 12" cord 21" with the thickness increased 25% to house the gear I hope. The length includes the sponsons so its misleading. But most gas riggers are around 40-45" (total) The prop will be behind the trailing edge of the wing at least 1" and will run 0 degrees and is a surface drive meaning only 1/2 the prop is in the water at speed. I guess the length will all depend on how long of a wing I use. If I use the 21" wing. It will be around 40" long. But 21 is looking short to house the running gear. Tuned pipe will run forward instead of back. Sounds like the wing I describe will fly the rear fairly easy. This is what I want. So if it fly's to high pulling the prop out of the water I can always adjust the wing AOA and get the prop where it needs to be. What I need is a wing which wont drop to much when slowing in the corners. But not over lift down the straights. Maybe I should go with a longer cord and narrower wing span? Thanks! Heres a rigger using the side plates I talk about. And a hull with a air foil shape (sort of) But the engine is much more forward than my plans. http://www.insaneboats.com/100rigger.html
Posted on: 7/21/2006 8:30 PM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4529519

RE: Aerofoil for rigger.
Thanks. It will be powered by a mod M&D G260 25 cc lawn trimmer engine already proven to push a rigger well over 70 mph. It will weigh between 11 - 13 lbs. I want to lift the rear only (airborn) to prevent blow-overs common with lifting hulls and place the engine (>60% total weight) in the rear like the picture. It will be around 45" long. Im not sure how much lift I want. But with this design. If the rear lifts to high, it will decrease the angle of attack of the wing and front sponsons and settle back down. Mike Bontofts record breaking design BTW that I want to work around. So some weight must be left up front on the sponsons to keep it down and under control. No front wing please.. Last night I picked the MH 60 airfoil and enlarged it to 21" long and increased the cord 25%. I also removed the concave areas close to the trailing edge. The width will be around 12" wide. But could be cut narrower after the fact if lift is more than enough. Im not sure if this airfoil was the best. But I had to make a decision and start drawing. A gyro controlled rear might help when it slows in the corners. But will surely be damaged if the boat ever upsets. So I will design it so that both AOA , front sponson and rear wing, can be adjusted on shore and then get it dialed in. This boat must turn on a dime unlike the other rear lifting SAW designs Iv mentioned. Thanks for offering your time and experience. Im looking forward to hearing what you recommend. I always wondered how the Europeans ran riggers with the CG so far back.. Now I understand. They are lifting the rear as well. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/record_breaking_120.htm Mike
Posted on: 7/21/2006 10:47 AM by Author "GiantScale" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4527270