RE: Zenoah G-38 overhaul
Phone Horizon Hobbies. Parts are a lot cheaper then a new engine but Zinoah really isn't a high dollar engine so it's a choice thing. Is the piston so bad you can't just get a new ring and hone the cylinder.
Posted on: 5/21/2013 7:27 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518809

RE: Improving stability
John, I have never set one up and really know nothing about them. I just flew the plane for the fellow at a big IMAA event. I have flown one of the planes at the lake bed and it fought me too. I haven't even read the instructions for the unit but I'm sure it was the set up wasn't correct as you say. Not my planes, not going to fool with them. I just happen to see a use for them. I'm not going to be flying from a boat any time soon though. Just remind me about the float fly this year so I don't forget about it again. Gene
Posted on: 5/20/2013 9:09 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517845

RE: alining both ailerons
I use a piece of wood when I'm setting up the ailerons and elevators and clamp them. Then I use my home made degree meters to get them set dead on. There are a number of items you can buy. At one point I had a clamp on meter sold by Tower.
Posted on: 5/20/2013 7:30 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517744

RE: Improving stability
First plane I flew with a gyro was a big Fleet Bipe. The owner had it on the rudder just to help keep it on the runway. The owner couldn't fly the plane but it was a fantastic build so a couple of us flew it at shows for him. If you forgot to turn it off after take off the gyro would fight you when you tried to use rudder. At the lake bed there are a couple of older fellows that can still fly but after about 5 minutes they get too tired to keep there planes level so the gyro is a life saver for them, gives them a chance to land when they are too pooped to poop. I just haven't had to use one yet but the day may come. If it was in the advertisements the fellow may be able to sell a few.
Posted on: 5/20/2013 7:25 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517740

RE: Improving stability
The man is selling gyros, if you can't control the plane well enough to fly then it looks like a good one. I have a couple of older friends that are using them now for a number of reasons. I have no use for one but they do have there place. Wonder if he has paid RCU yet to advertise this product?
Posted on: 5/20/2013 9:01 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517144

RE: How to repair this
For the pod I would do as Mike says. On the wing I too would peel back the covering but I would just epoxy the two halves back together and clamp them tight. The covering has to be peeled enough to get the clamps on. If all you fly are ARFs you may need to borrow some tools from a builder, clamps and iron but it isn't a hard repair. If you have a friend that builds they may also have some covering in the colors needed and be able to show you how to do a nice patch job. Orange, red and black are colors most of us have on hand, not to mention blue, white and yellow.
Posted on: 5/19/2013 11:14 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516746

RE: pull start for airplanes?
In the 50s and 60s we had the Wen-Mac 1/2A engines with a pull starter, they worked but never caught on, flip starting was easier and there was no line to break. Haven't seen one on any other engines but I do have a spring starter on my Zinoah G-62 gas engine and love it. Just roll the prop back a turn or so and let it go. It creates enough RPM to fire the engine instead of flipping until your arm drops off. I have never seen the system for a glow engine. Back in the days of the pull cord Wen-Mac we didn't have electric starters yet. The electric starter is a much better idea. I have seen the pull cords on some of the RC cars and trucks so they are still made. For boats we had the pulley on the crank of the engine and the prop shaft connected to that. We would wrap a cord around the pulley and give it a pull. I'm sure that pulley is still made or you can machine one yourself to make your own pull starter but really, the electric starter is a better idea. The old TD 1/2A engines also had a spring starter. Lot of ways to do it, just not real practical.
Posted on: 5/19/2013 11:00 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516740

RE: Bridi by Bluejay Airplane Kits
At the time my big Kaos was just over 20 years old when I was showing off and doing full power snap rolls, a lot of them! Finally folded the wing. I shoe horned an SK .91 in my last Birdy and it died in my first mid air. My 60 size Kaos lasted so long it got recovered 5 times. It flew with so many engines of different makes and sizes I finally had to replace the fire wall. Never once have I gotten a bad flying Bridi designed plane. Last engine used in my Kaos was an OS .91fs, favorite engine was a YS 110. The DB was the better flying one but only because it was more stable in knife edge. Can't say enough good things about any of the Bridi designs.
Posted on: 5/19/2013 9:30 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516064

RE: Goldberg Extra 300
Only time any of my planes are at full throttle is when going vertical or doing a high speed pass. Other then that there is no added speed just because I have the added power. On something like a loop I add power as needed, sort of like driving a car up a hill, it's rolled on as required. Doing things like snap rolls at full power is a good way to fold the wings. Been there and done that. I went to bigger engines for more vertical power, not high speed. That's another reason I usually have a longer prop with a small pitch, I like a slower plane with more power, not speed. Almost any servo in this plane will work very well, it's not a racer getting yanked around a pylon. It's designed as an IMAC plane and was used for that before the judges eye site failed and they need 40% planes to see them. Servo selection can be what ever you want.
Posted on: 5/19/2013 9:18 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516055

RE: Goldberg Extra 300
Karol asked me about the servos I have in my Extra, I don't know?? They aren't the old 48 in lbs and I think they are digital? Maybe not all of them? Pain in the hinderpoo to open the hatches to see. The old 48 in. lbs Futaba was what we used originally and they work very well. Today you will be told that you must have some big high dollar digital servo in any stunt plane. Fact is I understand why 3-D pilots like the biggest and best but most sport pilots wouldn't be able tell the difference. Every nimrod will tell you you must have these big servos. My stock reply when someone asks me about servos is to buy the best you can afford, they will be with you for a lot of years and can be used from plane to plane. I bought some of the first digitals that High Tech offered, 70 something inch pounds? They are still with me and being used, they were about $25.00 back then, now about $30.00. I think there is just too much over thinking and spending on servos. A friend bought an Aeroworks YAK 90 size, AW said to use some massive servos in the plane. Aeroworks sells servos, give it some thought. The guy still can't fly inverted so why would he need servos as big as I use in a 40% plane?
Posted on: 5/18/2013 3:40 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515405

RE: Onboard glow, dummy needs help again
Those are a twist on type and you push it on then twist, they stay on.. That particular plane is a fully cowled pattern ship and you could get to the plug cap with a needle nose, maybe? Never had one come loose. Gene, my LHS has a big book that has all there products shown and they order them for me. The original owner would always double my order thinking he would have them on hand but they always sold in a week. Not sure if the new owner stocks them or not. I have to go there in the next week and I can find out. If you want any of this stuff write me and let me know. If I'm out I can stop by Radio Shack and get the makens too. However, the LHS is now under new ownership and the guy doesn't like to be bothered. I'm out of the caps, when I built or set up a plane for someone I would use them and no one has ever replaced them for me. If you need one fast I can pull that one and send it to you. No problem. I'm able to get all the parts.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 9:05 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514873

RE: Deployed flaps plane stalled and crashed
Flaps and flaperons can be a lot of fun. I have the flaperons slaved to my elevator on my Hots so when the wind is up I can just flip a switch and play around. As I increase the elevators the ailerons come down. When activated I can do loops so tight the plane wants to kiss it's own tail.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 3:27 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514595

RE: Magneto Ignition and Termination
I like the spring starter on the 62, I have a cut out switch on the side of the plane and use a throttle kill switch on my radio that just closes the carb below idle.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 9:50 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514308

RE: Bridi by Bluejay Airplane Kits
Blue Jay is alive and well. If they made any mods at all to the original there is an update sheet in the kit telling you about it. When I built the Dirty Birdy they showed you they updated it for retracts or tail dragger and showed you how and what. Good wood, great cutting and outstanding Bridi planes. The prices are right too!![;)]
Posted on: 5/17/2013 9:44 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514302

RE: Goldberg Extra 300
[quote]ORIGINAL: Twin_Flyer I used TNT gear on my CG Ultimate and they are nice so its a no brainer to use them plus the 'glass cowl from Stans (now Fibertech N More). Also picked up a framed but unfinished CG Sukhoi and it will get the same engine/landing gear/'glass package, when I get another DLE... Looking forward to finishing it now! Thanks all for the info!! Bill S. [/quote] Lucky, I always wanted to build the Sukhoi but never got round to it when the kit was still with us. It should be the perfect match to the Extra.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 9:39 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514298

RE: Summer Carb Adjustment.
It is what it is, no one can say. Each engine will be different. Ever see the needle twisters? Those are the guys at the field that will twist the needles before each flight. I don't play that game, if the engine ran well last week it will run the same this week. I make a bit of change if I put on a new prop of a different size and as our weather starts changing. With our weather it is a very slow change from summer to winter. Last weekend it was 98 and today it is colder and over cast, it isn't enough to bother the engines enough to twist a needle. Last month I took out a plane that hasn't flown in a year, my only two stroke, it ran perfectly without any adjustment. Like Jester pointed out, there can be a lot of little things to make engines all run a bit different. Just changing fuel brands can do it. Just tune your engine the way you want it then leave it alone. Come fall it will change a tad. It doesn't care if it is 90 or 115 in our climate but it will change from now and when it is in the 60s. Mine don't like to start first thing in the morning when we get into the 30s and 40s.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 9:34 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514293

RE: Deployed flaps plane stalled and crashed
As much as I hate doing repairs that is a very cool plane and I would take the time and fix it. It looks a lot like my Swoose. Flaps are fun but on most planes not needed. Like everyone else I always take the plane way high and do my testing just to see how the plane reacts to different things. First time I deployed flaps on one of my planes it almost did a loop but I had time to turn them off and land then remove some of the throw. Kept doing that until the plane reacted the way I wanted. They are fun to play with but during set up can cause a lot of trouble until you have them set correctly. I didn't notice if your wing is a flat bottom or not but the wing on my Swoose is and doesn't require them for a slow landing. It lands like a trainer and slows down very well.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 9:12 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514274

RE: Goldberg Extra 300
The weak spot in the plane is the doubler in the fuse. The plane is an old design and back in the day they really were using a .60 glow engine. we kept going bigger and bigger. Over time that doubler holding all the engine weight tends to break. Today I use 1/8 aircraft ply in the plane. Mine was built in 1989 and gets flown a lot. A couple years ago on a hard landing the doubler broke on both sides so the thicker wood is now just a habit. I have now seen several of them break in the same spot. Mine started life with a YS 120 NC then the OS 120 pumper. I went right back to the YS. Then I changed to a YS 120F. No difference that I can tell between the NC and F YS engines but both fly the plane better then the OS. The DLE is a good choice, They have about the same tug as the OS 120. Operation is much cheaper and less support gear needed. Mine has the pitts muffler come out the bottom so it is a very clean glow plane but gas is still cheaper and cleaner. At one point I was getting a replacement LG from fiberglass specialties but in this thread we were told it is no longer offered. The LG on mine is big, like huge but it fits the plane but is heavy. The wire gear works but I used to bend my own and use thicker wire. A replacement LG is a better option. CG should be set as shown then moved as you like it. Same with the control throws. I measure mine in degrees and they are set with 10 degrees up and down elevator and about 12 degrees aileron. Rudder is all I can get. Karol, Dale didn't like my throws, he wanted more, just a choice in set up thing.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 8:06 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513825

RE: a lesson to all
[quote]ORIGINAL: YoungBuck74  To answer Grey Beards question. The best difference between the TX's IMHO is the '' Model Match''. You can not take off if the TX is on the wrong model.Pleas remember it is just my opinion. [/quote] It's a good one too, opinion. I do have a lot of planes programed in my radio so I do have to change from plane to plane. Just like on 2.4 but the model match does keep you from taking off on the wrong plane. Lucky for me I am in the habit of checking before and after I turn on my planes. I have forgot to turn off my radio when going from PPC to PCM but then it's just like model match and my planes don't react or operate at all. Why am I changing over? Because all my gear is getting old. In the past I have bought new receivers as they aged. Now I am just replacing them with 2.4 receivers. Other then binding I don't need to change anything in my radio. Ch 8 is still ch8, nothing in the radio changed. I picked up a 2.4 module from Hitec when they were on a special sale for $20.00. Had it around for over a year before I got and used a 2.4 RX. Not everyone is young and working. Modeling money is very tight so I replace things when I can. Buying a new $500.00 radio and 10 new receivers is out of the question just to move into the new tech. I haven't had any of my students go into 72 but I have had friends see my module and change over like I am. If you have a good radio to start with there is no reason to have to buy a new one, the radios aren't really an upgrade and they will not create new brain cells. A brain fart is a brain fart no mater what type of gear your using.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 7:45 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513805

RE: a lesson to all
[quote]ORIGINAL: Rotten40851 In his case, a 2.4 Tx would definetly be an upgrade. I know 72 Meg is still perfectly good technology and the blame is surely on him, but all of us at our field have been wondering for years why he has'nt made the switch from that  old FM system considiring the money he spends on his aircraft.  in my opinion 2.4 is far superior than 72 meg and never needing a frequency pin or impounding my Tx, or worring about someone shooting me down gives me peace of mind.        [/quote] Besides the need of the pin board what other improvements are they? Not having to worry about getting shot down is all I have seen. I still set up my gassers with a 72 PCM before I install the 2.4 just to see how well the set up is. An operators mistake hasn't anything to do with the radio, it's the operator. I watched one of the guys fire up his DLE 30 then reach through the prop to do something? Extactly what he has never been able to say other then a brain fart. That cost him 3 fingers and he was on 2.4. I lost one plane due to dumassing the antenna. My bad. I'm still using my old Futaba 9-C with a 2.4 module so I can use it for both 2.4 and 72. I still like the programing as well or better then the JR 9303, they are about the same radio. What other improvements are there? This is a serious question and not a 2.4 VS 72 debate. I use them both and will be for a long time. I still need about 4 more 2.4 9 ch RXs before I go all the way over.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 2:58 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513539

RE: Spinner size ?
Other then ordering a pre cut spinner for the size prop I'm going to use I have never had a spinner I didn't have to open the slots myself. Takes about 15 or 20 minutes with a moto tool.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 2:41 PM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513517

RE: Onboard glow, dummy needs help again
OK, photos are down to there smallest size and they said they loaded up? First photo is the Cermark metal twist on head lock. My LHS orders these for me and they just have the center wire and ground attached. I usually buy several of them. For two strokes I use the rubber clip on units. Second photo is one of the jacks mounted in a planes fuse. Third photo is the female jack, part number for radio shack is 274-0251. Forth photo is the male end I made up so I can just use my glow stick for starting. I also have a long one made up for a power panel. I don't have the part number for the male end. If you don't have a radio shack near you I can get some and mail them to you. Yesterday I took the wing tube and chucked it into a lathe so I could take it down a bit with a file and emery paper so it would slide into the inner tube better. When I used epoxy to glue in the tubes it acted like the epoxy shrunk and got tight? I need more wood to get the wings sheeted so I'm doing other minor things until I can get the wood. This plane uses more sheeting then any other plane I have built. I didn't cut near enough. Now I'm out of balsa blocks.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 11:27 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513357

RE: Goldberg Extra 300
I use two servos on mine and the last one I built but I have also used the split Y single servo on several of them without any problem over the years. I used carbon fiber arrow shafts to make up the single rod. To date I have never had one fail. My servos are mounted in the bay behind the back of the canopy. I do question the use of Koverall on this plane but only because they are already heavy. I'm not a weight watcher like some guys but I do avoid it as much as I can. Mine has flown with both the OS 120fs and the YS 120. Last one I built a YS 140 was used.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 9:29 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513247

RE: Onboard glow, dummy needs help again
Sure, I have shown it a number of times over the years. Today I will try to remember to set one up on the bench and write down the parts numbers for you. I can make up three of them for the same price as one of the store bought units. I can just mail you the photos today. Gene
Posted on: 5/16/2013 9:18 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513237

RE: Summer Carb Adjustment.
As a local desert rat in Vegas that has been flying here for a few years I know from season to season where my needles will be. I use YS engines and every one of them will start out in the summer perfectly, once set I don't change the needles until our weather starts to drop from our 100 plus degrees. At about 60 degrees I have to open up the high end one click. At about 40 another click and by the time we get into the mid 20s I will have the engines about 4 clicks fatter. The difference doesn't seem to change on the low end so it is almost never touched. We are now in the 90s so I have been leaning them out again as needed. Your OS may react a bit different but it shouldn't be much.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 9:13 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513233

RE: a lesson to all
I use the same radio for both 2.4 and 72. Other then not using the pin board I don't see 2.4 as an upgrade but I have been changing over slowly to 2.4 over time. I have only forgot to pull the antenna once and that was long before 2.4. Being complacent or forgetful isn't a problem with the radio system, it's just an operator malfunction, sort of like sticking your hand through the spinning prop to make an adjustment. Sh#t happens.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 9:00 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513213

RE: Onboard glow, dummy needs help again
Glad I'm not the only one with error 500 problems again, it seems to come and go. The times I have used an on board drive I used a switch like John has shown. I gave up using the on boards years ago and started making my own remote glow drivers like EC121 said. On four strokes I buy the Cermark metal twist caps and get the mono phone jacks, male and female from radio shack. Very clean system. I have had nothing but problems with the store bought remotes. They tend to fall apart from vibration or develop a short. They look kind of clunky too being so big. Gene, if you want another one I still have an Expert on board I can send you. I just never cared for them, I had too many problems.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 8:46 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513191

RE: Mufflers for gas engines
For a few bucks try a 17X6 Xoar prop on that little engine. Other then changing over to a pipe most everyone I fly with is using the stock muffler. They work fine as they are. Even a Xoar 16 inch should be better then the 15. You want a prop selection anyway and they are a bunch cheaper then a new muffler. The 17 may be just a tad big.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 10:48 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232525

RE: Home for OS 70FS
Pretty much any 60 size plane but it is under powered for stunt planes in that size like Extras or YAKs, doesn't work well in warbirds either. They work great in planes like the 4* or high wing planes. You will have ground looping with any short moment plane with a big wing and narrow landing gear. You could have bought or bent wider LG for the cub to remove the ground loop problem. Ground looping was a huge problem in WWI, look at the narrow gear and short fuse and you will see why.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 10:35 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232506

RE: Covering Question
What John said in his first post, I have also seen it printed as monocrap and several others over the years. I don't care for mono as the main covering but I still use it as a trim product over the base of ultra. As long as people know what product you are talking about and you are happy with it's use no one really cares.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 10:26 AM by Author "Gray Beard" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232501