RE: Plane Identification Assistance
I have a plane that I trashed the fuse beyond repair but the wing is in good shape. Out of the broken frame I just took the wing saddles and from there can build a new fuse. I am not sure what model that is but I don't think it's anything in current production. You could build a generic type fuse pretty easy for it.
Posted on: 8/26/2009 7:54 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9047744

RE: 2 Saitos owned, neither 1 in my plan... Opinions...
That plane matches up well with a standard 90 sized 4 stroke. The Saito 125 weighs the same as a standard 90 four stroke so it will work well. Just be careful on the throttle. The Saito 120 is heavier than the 125 and probably not a good match for the 4 star.
Posted on: 8/26/2009 5:59 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9047461

RE: You know you've had a good day testing engines when....
SOunds like a fun day. I'm sure the neighbors loved it!
Posted on: 8/26/2009 1:39 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9046848

RE:
I have 2 engines that were "old" but "new". One was a royal 40 that was probably 15 years old the first time I started it and one was a saito that was at least that old before the first time it was ran. Both ran great and I followed standard break in procedures like it was a "new" new engine.
Posted on: 8/25/2009 10:10 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9043331

RE: deflector or no deflector
If you are needing to extend out the exhaust exit that far I think you would be better of with a pipe of some sort. There are a lot to choose from and it will give you a boost in performance. My guess would be that with that long of an extension you are going to loose some serious power. I would test it on a stand at first. Just curious, why do you need such a long extension? Tell us what model you are putting the engine in and I am sure some of the folks here can give you some suggestions on what type muffler/extension will work well in the airframe.
Posted on: 8/17/2009 8:46 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9022394

RE: Looking at building a 60 sized plane but which one?
He already says that he has one.
Posted on: 8/14/2009 8:15 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9015526

RE: Teach me how to sheet a wing with Alaphatic resin.
If you apply glue on both surfaces and give it a few minutes to dry you can then lay the sheeting down. Then take a very hot monokote iron a slowly work it over the sheet running parallel to the ribs. It works pretty well. Practice it first to get a feel for how much glue you need. It doesnt seem like it would work but I was very surprised the first time I tried it.
Posted on: 8/12/2009 6:12 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9011379

RE: Nelson Hobbies Covering & Paint
Has anyone tried brushing the paint on over a glassed surface?
Posted on: 8/10/2009 5:49 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9005678

RE: A fix for warped sheeting?
Update- I was able to get out the worse offenders using an exacto knife and making an incision on the wave. After making the incision, I would make a pinhole directly over the rib and use CA to tack the sheeting back down to the rib. I didn't really have to cut out any of the wood. The incision made with the exacto knife gave enough space for the sheeting to lay back down. The wing looks much better and with spot filler and high build primer I think I can get the rest of the waves out. If I was going to build the kit again I would definitely go with a little heavier sheeting for the wing like many folks here on RCU recommend. Thanks for your help, I think you guys saved me from making a bad decision and ripping off some of the sheeting.
Posted on: 8/10/2009 5:46 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9005662

RE: Top Flite P-47 Giant Scale Mechanical Retracts?
In retracts you get what you pay for. Even for the 60 sized P47 you are going to spend close to $200 for good retracts.
Posted on: 8/10/2009 5:41 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9005645

RE: Just curious, are some colors of monokte harder to use?
The metallics look good but I have found they don't stick or shrink as well. I generally only use them for trim with the windex method. The transparent colors are a little more difficult as well. I have used trans yellow and it seemed as easy to work with as regular monokote. Trans green was very difficult to work with. For covering I generally use ultracote for the base color(s) and then trim out in monokote with the windex method. That way you get the better finish that ultracote gives plus the variety of colors from monokote. The models I have that are covered in ultracote tend to look better longer too. I have several models covered in ultra and after a few years they still look great. With mono the always seem to develop wrinkles over time, mainly on open bays.
Posted on: 8/9/2009 10:22 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9001781

RE: Four stroke single vs twin cylinder power comparisons.
The cool factor is off the charts. Although the 90TS is smoother than the 100 that's comparatively speaking. Twins are much smoother than their single counterparts.
Posted on: 7/24/2009 1:53 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8960591

RE: A fix for warped sheeting?
I do think part of the problem is the sheeting being so thin. Before the build I had read several recommendations to use thicker sheeting. After reading through the suggestions I took a second look at the wing. If I press on the ridges they will flex some. I also noticed that if I apply pressure to the ridges over the ribs a lot of the waves get a lot smaller. I am going to go back and re-glue those spots that pulled loose from the ribs and I think that will take out a lot of the waves. After that I think high build primer and spot putty should take care of the rest. As with most building mistakes sometimes they are not as bad if you just step back a day or two and get a second opinion. I won't be able to work on in for a couple of weeks but I'll be sure to post an update when I do. I'm open to any other input as well.
Posted on: 7/24/2009 1:43 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8960568

RE: A fix for warped sheeting?
It wasnt in the sun or anything, it was just in my shop and it was cool out. The waves are not at the ribs, they run at 90 degrees to the ribs. Its just where the sheeting buckled with the moisture.
Posted on: 7/23/2009 9:17 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8959020

RE: A fix for warped sheeting?
The bows run parallel to the LE and at 90 degrees to the ribs. They are more like little waves with some low spots and some high spots. Probably too high to sand out and too low to fill. I used a lacquer based spray can sanding sealer. It worked fine on the bottom of the wing and the control surfaces with no warping. The only thing I can figure is that I was doing everything in stages and when I sealed the bottom of the wing either I didn't coat it well enough or maybe I only applied 1 coat instead of 2. I don't think the steam iron would work now because it has a coat of dried poly on it that seals the wood. So I guess my decision is whether to spot replace the sheeting or not.
Posted on: 7/23/2009 8:34 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8958906

RE: Top Flite Cessna 182 Finishing Build
Pretty ambitious project for a first build but it looks like you've done a good job. I'll be following your progress.
Posted on: 7/23/2009 5:10 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8958402

RE: Four stroke single vs twin cylinder power comparisons.
I have the older Saito 90 twin which I believe was replaced by the 100T. w8ye will correct me on that if I am wrong, I believe he helped me get it up and running back when I bought it. The engine runs great and I have it on a big trainer. I recently bought a GP 40 sized cub kit that I will eventually put it on. I love the sound and it did take a little practice to dial it in and it seems to be a little more sensitive to carb height than some of my other 4 strokes. All in all its a head turner at the field. Power wise I would say my 90 is comparable to a my magnum 72. If I had to choose I would probably say the 72 would edge out the 90. I really think it will be a good match for a 40 sized cub.
Posted on: 7/23/2009 4:59 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8958366

A fix for warped sheeting?
I have been working on a TF 60 sized P47 for about a year now. I have been taking my time on the build and it is looking great. I am in the glassing phase right now and am glassing with WB poly. After the initial coats of poly on the bottom of the wing I started working on the top of the wing. A few hours after applying the first coat of poly I went out to check the wing and noticed the sheeting had warped. Apparently I had not applied enough sanding sealer to the top. Anyway I was so frustrated that after so much careful work one little mistake made such a mess of the wing. My problem now is deciding what to do with it. I had planned on painting it and adding panel lines and rivets as a first fairly detailed scale project. With the warp I am not sure how much time I want to spend on details and have just about lost motivation to finish but I have spent a lot of time and money on the plane to get to this point. the warps are not enough to make a difference in the way it flies but it is noticeable. My question is, is there any way to fix it? The wing itself is not warped just the sheeting in a few spots. The warps are confined to the top of wing starting about 1 inch back from the LE to about 3-4 inches back. I am tempted to try and cut out a piece of sheeting from the top of the wing and replace it with new sheeting. I am not sure if this is going to cause more problems than it solves. Is it possible to switch out sheeting without damaging the wing?
Posted on: 7/23/2009 4:34 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8958292

RE: How to get smoke oil out of an airframe?
[quote]ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer Geeze, if we listened to our wives/girlfriends, we'd never get ANYTHING done! :D [/quote] Or have airplanes to start with[:D]
Posted on: 7/21/2009 12:29 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8951878

RE: Primer for Nelsons paint
I plan on painting the plan one color. I will end up doing some trim probably with lusterkote. I will be sure to hit the primer with 320 before painting.
Posted on: 7/21/2009 11:13 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8951665

RE: OS 55ax with Perry pump...¿Is it possible?
Looking at the pics it looks like there is very little airflow over the engine. It looks like it needs a larger airflow out than it has.
Posted on: 7/21/2009 9:50 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8951478

RE: OS 55ax with Perry pump...¿Is it possible?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Plan Nueve For the new YAK I'm going to install a Battle switch for an ''on board'' glow activation, perry pump and if is necessary a carburator pump. The idea is to enjoy more than 5 minutes. [/quote] By adding all these accessories you are going to add weight that this size plane really doesn't need and then you have other points of failure in the system. Bottom line is that the engine was not tuned correctly, overheated, etc. I don't think you need to add a pump or anything else, you just need a better installation of the tank, engine, and/or cowl
Posted on: 7/21/2009 9:47 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8951474

RE: Good deal or not?
It's not a bad deal depending on the condition of everything. If it's all in great shape it's a fantastic deal, if it's in fair to poor shape it's an OK deal. The cub and rx's probably make it worth it. If you took the time and parted the package out I am sure you could get more than $450.
Posted on: 7/21/2009 8:57 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8951370

RE: Primer for Nelsons paint
After doing a little more reading on the website it says that the rustoleum brand auto primer gives good results. That's the primer that I have on hand so it should be ok. I noticed that the rustoleum auto primer cleans up with mineral spirits so I am thinking that it's not lacquer based and that's why it works better. One of the main reasons I am wanting to use the auto primer is because it is high build and I can do panel lines with it. As far as the grain goes, I am not so concerned with filling the grain with the primer. The WB poly with microballons seems to do that well. My concern is with the color of the grain showing through. I have tried painting latex directly over glass and wb poly. It adheres well and I was pretty happy with the finish but the color of the wood grain was hard to cover up. Wish I could get kilz here, I would give it a try. Top Gun, what are you powering your arrow with?
Posted on: 7/21/2009 8:51 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8951351

RE: What covereing?
Thats not exclusive to ultracote, I covered a 90 sized plane in monokote yellow and was very disappointed in how much of the wood grain showed through.
Posted on: 7/20/2009 11:51 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8948742

RE: What covereing?
I really dont like monokote. I think ultracote is a superior product. Generally I cover the plane with ultracote and then do all my trim and patterns in monokote using the windex method. You can do a search on the windex method here on RCU. The models that I have done that way look better over time than the monokote planes I have.
Posted on: 7/20/2009 9:07 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8948312

RE: Did Lustrekote ever make a flat olive drab?
I too have used it straight on plastic and fiberglass without primer. Works great if the surface is clean and scuffed. The trick to the paint is to put the can in warm water for a few minutes and then spray very light coats. The coats should be basically dusted on rather than sprayed. You can recoat pretty quick. Between those 2 tricks you can get a good paint job with LK.
Posted on: 7/20/2009 8:58 AM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8948294

RE: magnum .91 fs
You should be getting close to 10K on that prop. !0% fuel is fine. Sounds to me like the engine isnt tuned right. If you can touch it after it runs it makes me think it's too rich. If you touch an engine right after it runs it'll burn your hand. What happens when you lean it? Do RPMs go up or down?
Posted on: 7/18/2009 9:22 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8944709

RE: Primer for Nelsons paint
What about coverage? I am concerned with painting light gray that I might get some grain to show through.
Posted on: 7/18/2009 5:25 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8944254

Primer for Nelsons paint
I bought some Nelsons gloss gray for my piper arrow. My plan is to glass with WB poly and then prime with automotive high build primer out of the spray can. It's easy to work with and great for adding scale panel lines. I was reading through some posts and saw where somebody recommended against auto primer for Nelsons. I must have missed this when I bought the paint. Are there serious compatibility issues between auto primer and nelsons paint? Needless to say living in Argentina I cant just order the Nelsons primer and am wondering if there is an alternative. The ease of the auto primer makes it ideal but don't want to use it on my plane if it's not going to work.
Posted on: 7/18/2009 12:34 PM by Author "Gringo Flyer" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8943688