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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
My friend Phil and I have a Moki 250 in a Corsair and have put over 100 15-20 minute flights on this combo using nothing but Redline 50:1. Shining a light into the spark plug holes reveals spotless new-looking piston tops.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 11:16 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514923
RE: Engine for Comp Arf P-47
The 250 fits very well in the CARF P-47 cowling.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 3:20 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184726
RE: Gyro a steering
Thanks, credit for the plane goes to the owner Phil Smith who generously let's me fly it. Phil is quite the craftsman, his next project is the CARF P-47 again with a Moki 250.
Posted on: 7/26/2012 12:47 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170250
RE: Gyro a steering
Very nice Pat. Now, something like your plane and more importantly your location, would entice me to get into civilian flying. But here in Las Vegas I don't have that motivation and models are providing plenty of entertainment. Here's a rare 3-point from a fly in we did over at Chino, I don't pull these off very often but sometimes when you are 6 inches off the deck you can milk it.
Posted on: 7/26/2012 9:26 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170040
RE: Gyro a steering
Awesome Pat, you know exactly what I'm talking about. My full-scale experience was all with 10,000+ ft runways and the B-1's mass pretty much ruled out a steep low-power approach!
Posted on: 7/25/2012 10:29 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11168700
RE: Gyro a steering
I stole this approach technique from a video clip of #57, the Racing Corsair, and it works very well. With full flaps (always with full flaps), fly a high and steep final approach, don't worry, with those flaps and speed brake gear doors it will not pick up too much speed. Power should be at idle or maybe just a tick above idle. You should be able to see the top of the wing. Keep that approach path all the way down to the flare/round out to touchdown. Depending on how you judge the distance to the approach end of the runway, you may have to add a little power during the flare to land, put the power in momentarily and take it right back out. I feel this approach technique is much safer than a drug-in nose high approach in a quest to achieve a 3-point touchdown. Go for the 3-point, but only with the main gear about 6 inches off the ground. Phil's Corsair is flying so well without a gyro we feel no need to re-install it.
Posted on: 7/24/2012 8:22 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11167231
RE: Gyro a steering
We had a very long and difficult fight with the steering on Phil's CARF Corsair, which has 75+ flights on it. Anyway, approach, landing, touchdown, tailwheel down...then hang on because if it required any aggressive corrections to maintain centerline the model would basically become uncontrollable and usually depart the runway. Luckily the Sierra landing gear can take such abuse with a 63 pound model. The only time it was steady on roll out was with a good 10 knots or so of wind down the runway. We tried a gyro on the rudder/steering and it made absolutely no difference whatsoever so we removed it. We removed the CARF-supplied tailwheel because of it's hockey puck like composition and resultant complete lack of traction on a paved surface. We replaced it with a high end solid rubber jet wheel and things got a little better but still there would be instances of a wild and crazy ride. Then 65 flights into the model's life I was checking the tailgear and noticed that the steering servo wasn't very strong, it was in fact a Spektrum DS821 with all of what...maybe 100oz of torque. After berating Phil he installed a Spektrum 6030 with 287oz of power and presto, the ground handling issues went away. For all those flights we had nothing to fight back with, the weak servo would work taxiing out and back but with 10 pounds of tailwheel weight when we demanded quick corrective steering inputs the servo simply stalled. In summation, no gyro needed but make sure you have good traction and a powerfull steering servo because as soon as the rudder loses aerodynamic authority that steering is critical to keeping the plane on runway centerline. Awesome airplane, have fun with it.
Posted on: 7/23/2012 12:08 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11166002
RE: 9th Annual Warbirds Over The Rockies
This weekend our Navion builder, Keith, was concerned about how much he still has to do to be ready in time. So there is a chance...
Posted on: 7/23/2012 11:42 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11165969
RE: 9th Annual Warbirds Over The Rockies
Team Vegas Warbirds will be there with 9 pilots and: Moki-powered CARF Corsair CARF Mustang TF Giant P-40 TF-Giant P-47 TF-Giant P-51 TF-Giant F-4U-1 1/4 Scale Navion 1/3 Scale Fockker D7 ESM-Corsair ESM-T-28 ASM-A-26 KMP-OV-10 BH-Corsair
Posted on: 7/20/2012 3:07 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11162829
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Regarding: "According to Denso the FK (super ignitible plug) is not available in the size we need (FK is 14mm dia thread, we need 10mm dia). " Why do our U20M-U plugs have "FK" stamped on them? I'm stirring the pot here because we have seen a noticeable difference in plug condition between the CM-6 and U20M-U so there has to be a difference in the two plugs. The bottom line for us is we are happy with how Phil's engine has performed in the past 25 hours of run time and will continue to use the U20M-U "FK" plugs. It is good to know I'm not the only one with a headache any more.
Posted on: 7/18/2012 1:00 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11160170
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Reference the idea of running the hotter Denso plug just in the #3 cylinder. This is exactly what Goetz Vogelsang recommended, but being the kings of overkill, we elected to install them in all 5 cylinders. Phil just recieved 5 more hot plugs for his other 250 from Goetz. These are yet again different: U20M-U "JK" part number 6079, the big difference being these are U-groove plugs. This is the plug Jaketab showed in his photo.
Posted on: 7/17/2012 11:40 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158804
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Denso U20M-U is printed on the porcelin "FK" is stamped on the metal under the hex head. The Denso U20M-U is a replacement for the NGK CM-6 we are all used to. However, the "FK" identifier means (according to the EU Denso catalog) "Super Ignitable Plug". My online searches for the FK variant of the U20M-U always leads to the EU, I have not been able to find the FK variant in the US (I really didn't try that hard). If the FK plugs are EU only that would explain their $15US price from Goetz Vogelsang. You can buy U20M-U plugs from sparkplugs.com here in the states for $3.49 each...I doubt these are the FK Super Ignitable Plugs. By-the-way, Denso lists the U20M-U as obsolete with no replacement but when you put them in your cart it takes you to sparkplugs.com where you can buy them (just to see, I ordered a few). One more note, the plug also has four crosses stamped on it, which indicates a high heat range. I think the FK plug is a EU plug, the only place I know to get them here in the US is from Goetz Vogelsang. I'm sure someone in RCU land with more time on their hands can find other sources, my head hurts now though so I am done. ... just get them from Goetz Vogelsang
Posted on: 7/14/2012 9:35 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154923
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Very good, nice to not have to worry about maximum airframe speed limits. It has been a while since we tuned the engine/prop combination but 18 inch pitch comes to mind as the setting we adopted. We are also running high heat range spark plugs that Goetz Volgelsang recommended ($15US each) and they are fantastic. We have been running them for more than 10 hours and have never seen wet oil on any of the plugs (yes, that includes # 3 and #4). The only oil evidence we have noted is a light carbon coating that flakes right off when you brush it with a nylon toothbrush. Have fun and watch the RPM, think Pratt and Whitney R2800 sound, NOT Ferrari!
Posted on: 7/13/2012 3:32 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154212
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
My humble suggestion is you reduce the inflight RPM below 4500 to stay away from the 5000 RPM maximum, which is the point where you will start throwing pushrods. You stated it perfectly, you are outside of the engine's torque curve at the RPM your engine is running. We are running a 32-inch Solo 3-blade propellor with the pitch adjusted for 3500 RPM on the ground and the most RPM we have seen the engine unload to in the air is 4100. The maximum airspeed we have recorded from our onboard telemetry is 110 mph/176 kph. The maximum recommended speed for the CARF Corsair we are flying is 125 mph/200 kph so we strive to stay below that speed. To us the CARF Corsair/Moki 250 cruising by at 85-90 mph looks and sounds very scale, which is our modeling objective. Congratulations on your new model/engine, I'm positive you will have many hours of enjoyment from both. Regards,
Posted on: 7/12/2012 4:45 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11153138
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Brian's Zero is a 50 lb Meister Scale with a DA-100. Speed wise it was no match for the Moki-motivated Corsair. The Zero turned like a bat however, true to scale all around!
Posted on: 6/26/2012 11:54 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132640
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Sorry for the delay in replying guys. I was in Chino over the weekend flying the big Corsair against an equally big Zero at the Southern California Scale Squadron fly in, which was outstanding by-the-way. Yes, that is the TRI-FLOW we use. How to tell any early 215/250 from a late one? Call Goetz Volgelsang for the real truth data but I will tell you Phil's "early" 250 has smaller diameter exhaust tubes leading from the head to the collector ring (I understand these are the same as the 215 tubes). The newer 250s use a larger diameter exhaust tube. By-the-way, Goetz said the 250s with the larger exhaust tubes will make about 300 more RPM and sound a bit throatier/louder. I do not know what the grease story is on the 150, one can only assume its the same as for the other radials Moki produces. Again, call Goetz for the 100% answer.
Posted on: 6/25/2012 11:18 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11131267
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
I talked to Goetz about the lubrication in the front case of the 250 since ours is an earlier version with the smaller exhaust tubes. He ask me to tell everyone that on the early 215/250 the grease used during assembly will harden and migrate to the outer walls of the case as discussed in this forum. HOWEVER, he emphatically stated that the newer 215/250 are packed with a vastly superior SKS grease, which requires NO additional lubricant or needless dissasembly of the engine. He cites as an example a 250 used very hard by a major kit manufacturer and sent to him with over 400 flights on it. Goetz said the inside of the front case on the engine was perfect with absolutely no wear on the internal components. The early 250 my friend Phil is runing in his CARF Corsair has OVER 25 hours of run time on it with no issues other than a couple of pushrods we lost before we learned how to properly lubricate the valve train. In a related note and on the subject of valve train lubrication, we talked to a Red Line oil engineer about the best lubrication to use on the valve train and more importantly to lubricate the exhaust valve stems. He said, whatever lubricant you use make sure it IS NOT silicone-based because even with PTFE (as many silicone spray lubes advertise) the silicone-based lubricant will NOT hold up under the engine heat. Red Line recommended a high grade compressor oil they sell in three viscosities. We chose not to go with their oil and instead have settled (again, for 25+ hours) on TRI-FLOW spray lube. TRI-FLOW has excellent pennetrating properties (for working the oil down the exhaust valve stems) and more importantly, it withstands up to 475 degrees F. Our valvetrain lubrication regimen is: Lube external valve train every flying day. Lube external valve train and exhaust valve stems every 6 flights (our flights are 20+ minutes each). We lube the exhaust valves by depressing the valve rocker, removing the pushrod then filling the pocket around the top of the exhaust valve with TRI-FLOW and depressing the valve spring to allow the lube to migrate down the valve stem. Obviously each cylinder needs to be vertically oriented with the valve pocket pointed up. This creates work with the Corsair because the wings have to be removed and the fuselage rotated around in the cradle. The truth data: after the pushrod losses at the 5-hour point in the engine's operational life we adopted the regimen I laid out and have not lost a pushrod since. In summation: -From Goetz, do not take these engines apart needlessly, crappy case grease only applies to early 215/250 (like ours). -Stay away from silicone lube, get oil down into the exhaust valve stem because when the exhaust valves go dry and coke up they stick and you lose pushrods. Phil's Corsair is the one posted in the youTube link by Patrick a page back or so.
Posted on: 6/21/2012 2:37 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126957
RE: Composit ARF corsair and Evolution/Seidel 260cc Radial
For what its worth. I have heard that the Moki 7 cylinder gives up some of the deep throaty sound you get with the 5 cylinder Moki. The word is the 7 cylinder "buzzes" while the 5 cylinder has that classic roar. You might want to give Goetz Vogelsong a call and ask him about the difference between the two.
Posted on: 6/13/2012 11:23 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11116956
RE: Aerodrome Models L.T.D Curtiss JN 4D Jenny
Drop Dick Watz an email at (watz7@aol.com), he was one of the owners of Aerodrome models and it's my understanding he helps people with his kits still.
Posted on: 5/30/2012 11:41 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11100124
RE: TOP FLIGHT GIANT P51 GROUND HANDLING ISSUE
I've had two TF Giant P-51 ARF's and wrestled with the exact same landing roll out issue. It took the better part of a year to break the code but once I did the plane turned into a pussycat. This is not theory, its many hours of flying experience with this particular model. The Mustangs short fuselage moment and resulting rake (attitude) when its on all three wheels is what's killing you. The following steps will solve your problem: 1. Make sure the tailwheel is extended as far out as possible. 2. Reduce the main wheel diameter to 4.5 inches, sorry, a bit unscale but so is a plane that does the funky chicken on landing roll out. I use the CBA 4.5 inch wheels from MECOA. 3. DO NOT attempt to three point this plane, wheel land it, let the tail come down on its own, when the tail wheel touches, drive it down the runway until you reach taxi speed. You can stick it with a bit of elevator if you want but its really not required. Why no 3- point? As many have found out the hard way, if you bounce the model a bit and drop it back down on the mains you are going to break the gear mounts and or wings. In a 3-point attitude if you bounce the plane while presenting all that wing you will become airborne in a slow speed thrust deficient situation. If you don't go around out of it, you will likely break things already mentioned. Try it out and let us know how it works for you.
Posted on: 2/22/2012 12:22 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10970933
RE: *** Warbirds Over The Rockies 2011, Onsite Coverage ***
Brian, Team Vegas (12 people) vote for the 28th-30th. This would really help us schedule in the Moki 250 powered CARF Corsair[:D]
Posted on: 1/23/2012 11:51 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10923457
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Yes, Phil said some of them took about a quarter of a turn. This was after six 15-20 minute flights. Down the road he plans on putting set screws in them.
Posted on: 1/12/2012 12:11 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10905343
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
I second Gary's opinion on the Moki 250. Phil baffled his and is using the fuel pump, otherwise it is completely stock. We tuned the carb just like you would for any other gas engine and run 50:1 Redline oil. Phil's engine runs great and on a further note, we are not seeing oil pooling in the # 3 and 4 cylinder spark plugs. We keep idle time to a minimum and the engine never exceeds 3700 RPM in flight. It also sips fuel, a 20 minute flight used 32 ounces of fuel! We fly the Corsair in a scale manner and by that I mean we are not replicating the Reno Air Races.
Posted on: 1/12/2012 11:50 AM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10905305
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Sorry, its the Air Force courseware developer in me...Above Ground Level (AGL). We are sometimes called the acronym police.
Posted on: 1/11/2012 12:36 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10903789
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
This is how my friend Phil baffled his CARF Corsair. He painted the baffles flat black and you can hardly see them. Through the Spektrum telemetry system we've seen a 40-50 degree drop in cylinder head temperature. Keep an eye on Gary's CARF Corsair build thread, he will post the template for the baffle soon. I like your dummy cylinder head idea. I think anything that blocks off the airflow between the cylinders will work. Finding out to what extent it works will of course require testing.
Posted on: 1/11/2012 12:25 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10903772
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Good job posting the data we have extracted from the flights on Phil's Corsair. One minor correction, we are flying in Las Vegas at the North field, Willy McCool Park. The attached picture from our first test flight at the dry lake (hope it didn't turn out huge) is an example of something you DO NOT want to see. This is a wing drop during a landing, note the elevator deflection. The photo caught the bird right as I started the recovery. Luckily Mr. Moki checked in with all five cylinders and pulled the 63 pound beast out of the shredder. From this experience I learned to set an approach that allows me to see the top of the wing all the way down to the flare. I drive it on with a bit of power and don't go to idle until the mains are on the ground. I also learned to wear a diaper when flying a friend's very expensive model for the first time! Thanks for endulging my little thread hijack Gary.
Posted on: 1/11/2012 12:07 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10903734
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Nice work, I noticed in photo 1 you use the same scale building aid I use...TUMS! From the Vegas CARF Corsair Crew,
Posted on: 1/5/2012 12:02 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10893199
RE: Looking for some help with 50cc Corsair from ESM
I'd be happy to help. Email as needed.
Posted on: 12/8/2011 12:38 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10850115
RE: Reed gap?
I dressed a DLE-30 reed cage that had a very crappy mating surface for the reed flaps, basically it was bowed in the middle with lots of light shinning through when the flaps were pressed into place. Dressing the flap mating surface with 400 grit paper on a glass table solved the DLE-30 fuel draw problem. So right after that I pulled apart my perfect-running DA-50 for an unrelated issue and noted with some dismay that the ends of the reed flaps did not lay flat but when I pushed the flaps down against the mating surface they sealed completely with no light shinning through. To repeat, this is a perfect-running DA-50 so obviously the gapped reed flap ends were not hurting anything. Still, I flipped the flaps in the carrier and the end gap went away. It made me feel better but was not required. So based on my experience, once the flaps are drawn closed, as long as they seal up you should be fine...as was mentioned already.
Posted on: 12/7/2011 12:05 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10848280
RE: DLE 30 reed block
I had a DLE-30 reed block problem that was so bad the engine would not draw enough fuel to start. Looking at the reed block up against a light I could see where the reed flaps were not seating against the frame. I took the flaps off and dressed the reed cage surface with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper laid flat on my glass topped shop bench. I dressed the cage surfaces until no light would shine in between the reed flaps and the seating surface. The reed cage dressing fixed the problem and the engine starts/runs fine now.
Posted on: 11/30/2011 12:23 PM by Author "Growler84"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10836601
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