RE: talon good spad?
My spad has an MDS .58 engine one it running an 11x7 prop. It is fast enough for me and the roll rate on it is pretty decent. I do have landing gear on mine and take off/land like a normal plane. I have a separate mini servo for the steerable tail gear. I have a pitts muffler on the MDS but the oversize carb and MDS design requires one of the exhaust ports on the pitts muffler to be plugged for a reliable running engine. The MDS loves to scream and is a perfect match.
Posted on: 3/13/2011 7:05 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10398073

RE: what is the best RC transmiter out there?
I've been a JR man since I started this hobby a while ago. I got the Hitec A9 for my birthday in May. As soon as I can afford more receivers, I intend to sell my JR transmitters. They have been very good to me and reliable but its time to move on.
Posted on: 10/16/2010 9:23 AM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10072066

RE: Time to make the Wife happy...
I forgot to mention this in my original posting. A neighbor of mine and friend has an old Hyundai Santa Fe. It has 120k mileage on it and he constantly brags how he has done ZERO maintenance to his vehicle other than oil/filter changes every 7500 miles and it keeps chugging along with no problems and has never failed him. I'm a handyman and a very experienced (backyard) mechanic and he's constantly laughing at me for the preventative maintenance I do on my vehicles. He hasn't even changed his tranny fluid or radiator fluid in 120k while I'm replacing differential fluids on my 2 Jeeps every 15k miles per the factory service schedule. Like I said, If I didn't own two diesel Jeeps (the torque and turbocharging are a necessity in Colorodo's high altitude and steep mountain grades) I'd be driving a Hyundai Santa Fe. The Tuscon is ok but if you drive a Santa Fe after the Tuscon you'll never go back to considering the Tuscon. My kid brother owns a Kia. Kia is owned by Hyundia if i read things accurately. Kia's prices are less and the refinement and finish are not as good as Hyundai's. With that said, he loves his Kia Sportage and it has been very good to him for the past 3 years. I looked into a VW Toureg (same as Porsche Cayenne) but there are lots of horror stories about brakes and tires wearing away prematurely and high unexpected maintenance issues/costs. I really wanted the 3.0L Toureg diesel but the horror stories associated with VW's kept me away and as one who owned an 04 and 06 VW Jetta TDI (diesel), I can attest to engineering shortfalls in those engine/powertrains. If you get an BMW X5, seriously consider and test drive their 3.0L diesel. its quiet, gets incredible fuel economy and should last a long time. most auto magazines are biased againsts diesels and usually report lower than actual mileage figures-they revied a VW TDI and claimed low 20'mpgs several years ago and I averaged 43mpg on mine after it was broken in...they only measured fuel flow into engine for mileage calculations and didn't account for fuel that is sent back to the fuel tank as part of the injection system. My 07 Jeep Grand Cherokee Diesel easily gets 26mpg on the highway on the straight and level, never less than 20mpg in mixed city driving, and gets about 17mpg towing my 4k camper though I did see 9mpg towing at 65mph up a very steep mountain pass ;-) as I passed everyone in the left lane.
Posted on: 10/4/2010 10:17 AM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Cars, Trucks, Buggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10046336

RE: Time to make the Wife happy...
How many Hyundai bashers actuall own one? While I woudn't drive a Tuscon (the ride is harsh), I'd own a Hyundai Santa Fe in a heartbeat if I didn't get an new 07 leftover Grand Cherokee Diesel last year. The mercedes benz diesel in the Grand Cherokee won me over (its quiet, 24-26mpg on highway, 7400 lb towing, its fast (turbo diesel), and will easily last me 300k). There is nothing wrong with Hyundai, just too many folks bashing this company because it is Korean. Yes, i've owned a Hyundai in Korea a while ago. It was very reliable and never failed me in brutal driving conditions in Korea. "Leading German automotive magazine Auto Bild has awarded Hyundai the top position in the Auto Bild Quality Report 2010. Beating all other manufacturers, including Toyota and renowned German brands BMW and Audi, Hyundai took the prestigious honor based on a comprehensive analysis of reliability, long-term quality and customer satisfaction. As one of the world’s most respected industry quality surveys, the Auto Bild Quality Report 2010 award further demonstrates the gains Hyundai has made in consistently improving the quality of its products, services and customer support." " Hyundai quality improves. J.D. Power and Associates ranks Hyundai 4th in its 2009 Initial Quality Study! According to the 2009 IQS -Initial Quality Study, Hyundai brand has made a come back and took the fourth spot in the latest quality survey released by renowned J.D. Power and Associates. The Korean car maker has jumped from 13th position achieved in 2008 to fourth in 2009, right behind the top three automakers: Lexus, Porsche and Cadillac. The annual J.D. Power and Associates quality study measures IQS based on problems reported per 100 vehicles (PP100). With 108 problems per 100 vehicle this year, the industry average has improved when compared to last year (118 problems per 100 vehicles in 2008). As already mentioned, with only 95 problems per 100 vehicles, Hyundai has taken the fourth spot in the quality survey. Even more important is the fact that Korean largest automaker regained its number 1 status among non-luxury brands, beating Honda at fifth place and Toyota at seventh position. It has happened for the second time that Hyundai has finished among the top four most quality car brands. In 2006, Hyundai “landed� at third position.
Posted on: 10/3/2010 1:18 AM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Cars, Trucks, Buggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10043824

RE: Lets see your ULTRA SPORTS !!!!!!!!!!!
I wish I could show you pictures of my US 60 that I bashed into a twin using two OS .40 FX's spinning 9x8 prop on 20% nitro. It had mechanical retracts; it was FAST and flew great. I lost it when I had a false peak detection on my charger. Thinking it was fully charged, I lost it several minutes into its final flight. I have owned 3 US 60s in the past 12 years and each of them has met an untimely event early in their lives. The last one and final US 60 that I'll ever own lost its elevator during some spirited flying. I have an Ultra Sport curse! Never again.
Posted on: 10/1/2010 10:09 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10041657

RE: how many enjoy the build?
I'm an rc pilot and not a builder. I'll stick to buying used planes from those who did the boring stuff for me.
Posted on: 8/6/2010 1:21 AM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9914301

RE: Hitech Crystals on ebay!
I worked for the government, the military, and have been a licensed Ham radio operator for 34 years and agree that "should' is not mandatory.
Posted on: 7/19/2010 1:47 AM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9873488

RE: New 2mm & 4mm Coroplast Supplier!
Any idea what's the best way (which way is cut in relation to flutes) for this material? I'm getting back into the hobby after being gone for 4+ years.
Posted on: 7/2/2010 9:51 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9841455

RE: talon good spad?
of course I read it, its not accurate and an email to the poc on the website hasn't yielded a reply. Bummer, the talon is a great flying machine particularly with a MDS .58 spinning a 10x7 prop.
Posted on: 7/2/2010 9:49 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9841452

RE: JR 8103 won't transmit
Same thing happened to me on an old JR 783 which has been sitting in storage for 6 years. It was set to PCM and not PPM.
Posted on: 6/6/2010 9:56 AM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9784373

RE: Do I trade in my JR X9303 for an Aurora 9?
I've been flying JR for at least 15 years and finally switched to the A9. Although I got rid of two JR 8103 transmitters, I kept an older JR783 to fly my planes that still have JR receivers.
Posted on: 6/6/2010 9:51 AM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9784365

Anybody Try Tenergy Batteries? Great Price
Hi, I just picked up a 2000 mah 9.6v transmitter battery for 14 bucks delivered $7.72 for battery another 6 bucks for shipping. This price can't be beat and I wonder if anybody else has experienced these batteries? When it comes in, I will cycle them and see how they perform. If I can get twice the flight time over my 700mah NICADs, I'll be happy! http://www.all-battery.com/6v2000mahnimhsidebysiderxreceiverbatterypackswhitecconnector11106.aspx http://www.all-battery.com/96v2000mahsquarefutabant8s600btransmiterbatterypack11417.aspx I purchased mine from Amazon dot com and they were cheaper.
Posted on: 6/5/2010 9:58 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9783624

Engine Blue Book?
Hi, I just bought some RC airplanes fom an estate sale and I had no choice but to take boxes of stuff with my purchase that the seller wanted to get rid of because they were tired of looking at them. One of the boxes included many OLD engines Torpedo 40 engines, rear carb and front carb Numerous small Enya and OS 15 engines Merco engines Old supertiger engines (no muffler but exhaust has a valve on it that connects to the carb) various other "old" engines that I've never seen before. How do I find out what they are worth? I'd lke to sell them and want to make sure I'm not getting taken advantage of by a seller who is more knowledgeable about the engine's value than I am. I intend on given profits from the sale back to the estate or to a charity.
Posted on: 5/30/2010 12:42 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9768993

RE: Hanger 9 SUCKS!!!!!
Sorry about your crash. I'd go SPAD and not worry about wrecking. Good luck
Posted on: 4/30/2010 1:05 AM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9699565

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
I wish I had pics of my Ultra Sport .60 twin w/ retracts powered by two 0.40 OS FX engines. It was fast. Unfortunately, every Ultrasport I have owned ended up in the garbage bin. I think I'm cursed.
Posted on: 4/27/2010 2:39 AM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9691951

RE: CMP Cessna 182 Building Thread>the best scale Cessna 1.20 size ARF that is on the market!!!
Any idea what the engine standoff length should be? Have you flown yours with the Syssa? I hoping it will provide enough power to get out of trouble at my altitude.
Posted on: 4/12/2010 2:20 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9655590

RE: CMP Cessna 182 Building Thread>the best scale Cessna 1.20 size ARF that is on the market!!!
I just ordered my CMP Cessna 182. I just took 2 days of my free time reading all of these posts and I am grateful for all of the assistance. Don't blast me but if I can fit it, I will be installing a Cyssa SA 180HP engine in mine. Total weight should balance her out nicely and power at my altitude should be equal to a 25cc (3% loss in engine HP for every 1000 feet altitude and I live at 6200 feet). Wish me luck!
Posted on: 4/11/2010 10:56 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9654201

RE: New RCGF 26 CC Engine
Where did you buy this engine?
Posted on: 4/10/2010 9:43 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9651844

RE: talon good spad?
Is plastic concept planes out of business? Website is "under construction"
Posted on: 4/10/2010 6:38 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9651495

RE: Plastic Concept Planes Contact info...?
Is plastic concept planes in business? I desperately need to buy another Talon. Thanks~!
Posted on: 4/10/2010 6:35 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9651493

RE: Omega or Cool Power for my Saito?
When I used to live in Enterprise, AL, I would mix Coolpower with Omega at a 50/50 ratio. The color of the fuel was ugly but the blend of castor to synthetic was perfect for every application including my Saito and Thunder Tiger 4 strokes. BTW, I left Alabama in 1999 and before I left I was lucky enough to purchase Coolpower, Omega, and their 20/20 blend fuel at wholesale price (7-8 bucks/gallon) I bought many cases of the stuff and still have 3 gallons of Coolpower sitting in my garage 11 years later. Yes, the fuel still burns like it was new.
Posted on: 4/7/2010 12:38 AM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9643148

RE: Annoying people at the field.
I've flown in many states over the past 15 years while I was in the military. I've seen it all. Looking back, I can honestly say that the model airplane club scene is the best in Kansas City, Kansas. I sure do miss flying there and if it wasn't for the fact that I love Colorado Springs, I'd move there in the hearbeat just for the flying!
Posted on: 4/2/2010 12:10 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9632046

RE: super chipmunk 120
Anybody know if I can stick a gasser in this plane?
Posted on: 3/21/2010 9:59 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9601038

RE: what brand nitro fuel?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Chris_RC [quote]ORIGINAL: quietnas1 Maxys Fuel has 10% Castor Synthetic blend. Engine runs great no dyes in it so the fuel is clear and has tons of power. I agree. Too high a percentage in oit will give poor performance. Why do you think so many do not like the Traxxas fuel. High oil percantage and the engine runs super hot. Not to mention to much oil will also cause the one way bearing to slip. I found Maxys fuel on AMAINHOBBIES.com but they want some crazy prices. $82.00 for a gallon of 20%. I get 30% from my LHS for $32.00. [/quote] LOL, It is $82 for 4 gallons. That comes to about $20.50 a gallon. .12 engines can run up to 25%, better to stay at 20% though. 16% would cause the engien to run too hot because nitro burns cool, oil burns hot. [/quote] Wow, I've never seen someone spout so much misinformation before without anyone challenging them. Anybody here besides me want to correct inaccurate info? So a couple of things I'll correct that I've read in this post: 1. WD40 for afterrun is bad. Why you ask. Easy, parts of your engine actually have a light layer of rust on them. When you WD40 your engine, the WD40 works great at removing the rust which leaves with iron oxide particles that are free to scuff your cylinder and piston and bearings. Any automatic tranny fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil works as a decent afterun oil. After run oil is only necessary if you have a bearing engine. If you have a cheap bushing engine, its not needed. 2. Engine dyes do not affect engine or affect performance that would be noticeable by anyone. 3. Synthetic oil is actually more expensive than castor oil as a lubricant. While it can't tolerate the heat castor can, it usually provides better lubrication (slicker) and is usually lower in viscosity than castor so it allows engine to accelerate faster and rev higher due to parasitic losses. I personally prefer a touch of castor in my fuel to provide overlean and scuff protection but would never run a pure castor fuel in any engine. Synthetics also burn cleaner. 4. The higher the oil content the less combustible fuel available per unit measure that can be combusted. How much power an engine develops (besides obvious factors such as porting, compression ratio etc..) depends on how much air and fuel you can pump into an engine. The problem with high oil fuels is that people try to get the same performance out of an engine as they did running a low oil fuel. To do this, they usually lean out the mixture too much to get the engine to run as fast as it did with lower oil fuel. The result is an engine that is fried from running too lean. RC car engines traditionally use less oil than airplane engines not because smaller engines need less oil, the opposite is true. RC car engine designers, users, and fuel makers opted a long time ago to take performance over engine longevity. Using less oil in fuels allows engines to rev higher, develop more power than they would with higher oil content fuels but at the price of decrease engine lifespan. If you are racing, you don't care if your engine lasts a month or two but if you are a backyard basher, you may way wish the oppositive. I have rc airplane engines that are running strong and are almost 30 years old. I had a .12 engine last me 2 months running car fuel but my Savage which I bash using 17% oil is going strong after 5 years of very frequent use on the golf course in my backyard. 5. Too much oil in fuel doesn't cause the one way bearing to slip. A leaky backplate and dirt and sludge do.
Posted on: 10/11/2009 4:54 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9164351

RE: Magazines say there are no bad planes??
You have to read between the lines and be knowledgeable enough to know some basic parameters. For example, when I was a newbie and didn't know squat about airplanes, I bought a flightcraft ARF. The review seemed good but now I know that a 200-250 foot takeoff roll with a .46 engine for this size airplane is NOT GOOD and indicates a heavy airplane with high wingloading. That flightcraft ARF was a piece of junk that flew worse than a durabrick. Your best bet to know a planes strengths and weeknesses is to ask the general rcuniverse population.
Posted on: 10/1/2005 1:01 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3411863

RE: Any Opinion about K&B .48 ABC Engines
If this engine is as tight as they say it is, I high recommend heating the engine up before you start it. This will loosen the piston/cylinder fit and put less stress on the connecting rod. A heat gun or hair dryer should do the trick. I personally use a small butane torch to heat my new engines up but that is not as safe if you have fuel in the tank and line and could catch your plane on fire. Once your engine is heated up, start it and IMMEDIATELY get it up to a slightly rich full throttle setting.
Posted on: 9/24/2005 12:34 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3389184

RE: Engine shuts off above 260 degrees
I know this place is for help with problems but whatever happened to the American spirit which was littered with examples of people experimenting and trying new things. If it is dying at idle when warmed up, why don't you try fiddling with the low end needle valve and the idle speed???????? First try richening the low end a little bit and see what that does. Guess what, if it gets worse then go in the opposite direction and see what that does. It ain't rocket science and the time it took you to write this post could have been used to solve your problem. It is not unusual for an ABC engine that is worn and on the decline to have trouble idling when it is hot.
Posted on: 9/5/2005 12:11 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3330438

RE: Wasp .28 doing nothing but idling....dies.
The fuel shouldn't affect your idle but the added oil content may require finer needle settings. If it were me, I wouldn't worry about idle until the engine was fully broken in. Try to get her up to full throttle and let her rip for a couple of tanks around a parking lot to loosen the engine up. New tight engines don't idle well.
Posted on: 9/4/2005 11:40 AM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3327744

RE: Fuel Temperature
Its not the fuel's temp but your needle valve setting. Our engine carbs are not self adjusting and require tweaking for changes in air density, temperature, humidty etc...etc.. As little as a 5 degree temperature change will require a carb adjustment. Unfortunately, many in the RC family are of the "set it and forget it" mindset. I flew in lower Alabama for many years and my fuel sat on asphalt in the hot sun for many hours and never had a problem flying.
Posted on: 8/12/2005 8:41 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3257374

RE: Is my .46FX on it's way to the boneyard?
Yes, it had over 200 hours when I sold it. I bought the engine used from a friend who kept a log on the engine and I decided to keep with the tradition he started for this engine. The engine, a MDS .68, was run on a scratch built ultra hots look alike clone which was my daily flyer for almost 10 months out of the year. It seems like for several summers she was spent more time running than not and a hot refuel option and onboard battery generator would have been great. I don't know if running her typically at high throttle settings the entire time helped but it sure didn't hurt. The previous owner did use a castor fuel blend and I did start out with a blended fuel until I stocked up on Coolpower which I was able to get a factory price. I can't explain why it lasted longer than what engine experts said it should last. Russians have been known for making crude products that last very long. I have a new and unused MDS .68 sitting on my shop and I'll start a log on it once I can find a suitable airframe for it.
Posted on: 8/12/2005 8:30 PM by Author "Homebrewer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3257341